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HISTORY

Southern Oregon,

'— *y — '^ ^

RCKSON, Josephine. ..Doiiglss Curry anti Cnos

COUNTIES,

Compiled from the Most Authentic Sources.

PUBLISHED BY

1884.

PORTLAND, OREGON :

I'RINTINC; AND LITIIOCIKAP IIING HOUSE OF A. G. WALI.ING, CORNER IMRST AND ASH STREET

'Ugress, in tlie j'C
jin of Congress, (

PREFACE. 12C43G9

In giving these pages to the pnblic, the publisher has been actuated by the lauil-
able ambition to materially aid in a great work — the jjreservation in historical form or
tlie fast-fading annals of Oregon. The history of this great state, the story of its
struggles and triumphs, has never been written; nor can it be until the annals of each
section have been carefully gathered and recorded. They are the stones, which, set in
place by the hand of a skillful builder, make the complete edifice. To gather the scat-
tered threads of history ere they fall from the hands of those who have spun them, and
to weave them into a complete and reliable narrative, is the arduous task the publisher
has assumed; and to do this he has undertaken the work in the only manner l)y which
this result can be accomplished.

No portion of the state exceeds in importance or historical interest that section to
which the pages of this volume are specially devoted. The counties of Douglas, Jack-
sou, Josephine, Coos and Curry, usually referred to under the title of "Southern
Ol-egon," are large, populous and prosperous, and their annals constitute one of the most
important factors in the history of Oregon.

The work has been performed by a corps of able writers, who have patiently
examined ever}' source of information, giving sj^ecial attention to drawing out the tes-
timony of the pioneers and actois in the scenes portrayed. Every volume touch-
ing upon the subject has been carefully perused, the state and county records have been
examined, the files of the earliest newspapers of the state have been searched, pioneers
have been interviewed by the hundred, not only those now living in Southern Oregon,
but others encountered in every section of the Pacific Coast. Pains have been taken
to reconcile as nearly as possible all conflicting statements, and to do this the compilers
liave interview men of all shades of opinion. Whenever possible, disputetl j^oints have
been decided by reference to official records and documents and the contemporaneous
accounts in the newspapers. It is upon this careful investigation of all original sources
of information that this volume bases its claim of being the only reliable record of the
events of which it speaks. Everything previously written on these subjects has been
Init personal recollections, valuable to be sure, but incomplete, or was prepared for the
juirpose of attacking or defending some particular person, organization or theory, and
is valuable, not as history, but simply as evidence from which history may be compiled.
The task has been an arduous one, but it was undertaken with a full realization of its
diniculty, and has been conscientiously performed. That no errors whatever should
be committed could not even be hoped for; but their very scarcity and unimportant
nature are evidences of the general accuracy of the work.

The publisher returns his sincere thanks for the encouragement and substantial
aid extended by the state, county and city officials, the press, and the intelligent citizens
generally. With these remarks he submits the volume to the thoughtful perusal of the
Pioneers, the sturdy men and women who have through many years t)f toil, liiiitlship
and danger, bravely woven the tapestry of Oregon's history.

THE PrBLlSlIEIJ.

Portland, Oregon, May lo, 18.SJ.

ILLusTRA.TIo:^;^s.

Applegate, Hon. Lindsay, 8

Beekman, Hon. C. C. 22S

Drain, Mr. and Mrs. Hon. Chas. 432

Klippel, Henry, 452

Lane, G^n. Joseph, frontis-piece.

PORTKAITS.

Lane, Mrs. Gen. Joseph, 184
McCall, Gen. J. M., 32
Owens, Hon. J. F. W., 412
Ply male, W. J.. 68
Reams, Thos. G., 100

Ross, Gen. John. E., 176
Smilh, Capt. Thomas, 372
Tolman, Gen. J. C, 356
T'Vault, W. G., 296
Tichenor, Wm., 472

Agee, Benj. C, 12
Aiken, Andrew G., 16
Alford, Albert, 20
Amy, Haskell, 24
Ashland— Bird's-eye, 352
Ashland Woolen Mfg. Co., 28
Barron, H. F., 36
Battle Rock, 40
BeallT. F. and R. V., 44
Blanco Hotel, 48
Booth, John O., 52
Brockway, B. B., 56
Brown, H. G., 60
Burnett, Jas. D., 64
Cape Arago Light, 496
Cape Blanco Light, 72
Cellers, Joseph, 76
Chapman, John H., 80
Constant, Isaac, 84
Coohdge, Orlando, 88
Court House, Roseburg, 96
Court House, Jacksonville, 92
Coquille Jlill and Tug Co., 492
Crater Lake, 104
DaMotta, Philip, 108
l>odge, J. R., 112
Eagle Mills, 116
Elkton Mills, 120
Emmitt, John, 124
FuUerton, John, 128
Ganiard, O. V., 136
Gardiner Mill Co., 132
Gardner, T. K., 140
Gates, Henry, 144
Gazley, J. F., 148
Gillam, Thos. J., 152
Grubb, John L., 156

VIEWS.

Gurney, Mrs. E., 160
Gurney Bros., 164
Hanley, M., 172
Ish, Mrs. Jacob, 180
Jacksonville — Bird's-eye, 360
Jones, Henry, iSS
Jones, Joseph, 192
Lane's (Gen. Jos.) Tomb, 196
Leeds, Capt. J. B., 200
Levens, D. A., 204
Love & Hanley, 16S
Magruder, Constantine, 208
ilap — Coos and Curry Counties, 464

— Douglas County, 384

— Jackson County, 30S

— ^Josephine County, 444
Marshlield — Bird's-eye, 484
Marshfield Mills, 212
Marshfield Church and Academy, 488
Mark, Frederick, 220
Masonic Temple, Ashland, 224
Mathes, Wm. E., 232
McClellan, D. C, 236
McClendon, C. C, 240
Mingus, Conrad, 244
Moon & Stanley, 248
Murphy, John, 252
Jlyer, W. C, 256
Nasburg & Hirst, 260
Nichols, I. B., 264
Nickell, Charles, 216
Ocean House, 268
O.&C.R.R.— Rock Cut, 272

—Tunnel No. 8, 276
—S. from Tunnel No. 8, 2S0
— Grave Creek Crossing, 2S4
Palmer, P. P., 288

Patterson, Joshua, 292

Payne, C. T., 300

Pershbaker, A., 304

Pelton Bros., 3S8

Pickens, E. P., 312

Plymale, F. M., 316

Presbyterian Church, Jacksonville, 320

Price, J. W., 324

Rast, John, 328

Riddle, T. S., 332

Roseburg — Bird's-eye, 408

Roseburg Public School, 336

Ross, John E., 340

Sawyers, Andrew, 348

Sheffield, James F., 364

Shrum, Thomas, 368

Simpson Bros., 500

Singleton, T. J., 376

Singleton, W. B., 380

Stanton, H. C, 392

Stearnes, D. W., 396

Sutherlin, Fendel, 400

Taylor, S. C, 404

Thomas, Richard, 42S

Thornton, S. I., 416

" Times" Printing House, 216

Walker, J. P., 420

Walton & Hayes, 424

Ward, Frazier, 436

Weaver, J. W., 440

Welker, Daniel, 448

Williams, L. L., Monument, 456

WiUis, Rev. W. A., 460

Woodruff, A. H., 468

Wright, J. W., 476

Wrisley, J. B., 4S0

INDEX.

Abbott, G. H., 275, 276.
Abernethy, George, 146, 14S, 150, 160.
Agriculture, 115, 315, 394-
Aguilar, Martin cle, 30, river of, 30,
49, 54. 76-

Alarcon, Fernando de, explores Colo-
rado river, 17.

Alaska, 35, 59, 63, 65, 69, 95, 102.

Albion, New, 21, 55,

Alden, Capt. B. R., 215.

Allhouse creek, 455-6.

Allhouse, Philip, 44S, 455-

Amazons, Isle of, 14.

Ambrose, Dr. G. II., 202.

American explorations, 6S, 72, 75, 76,
92, iiS, 126, 136, 145, 1S6, 301.

.American board of commissioners for
foreign missions, 128.

American Fur Company, 118, 123, 125,
129.

Angell, Martin, killed, 259.

.\nian, .Straits of, 13, 19, 22, 28, 35,
48, 60, 62, 75.

ADplegate creek, siege of cabins, 259,
■458.

.^pplegate trail, 14S, 302-7.

Applegate, Charles, Jesse and Lindsay,
143, 148, 302, 349.

-Armstrong, Ben., 215.

Armstrong, Pleasant, 219.

Arteaga, voyage of Captain Ignacio,
62.

Ashland, 214, 352, 358.

Ashburton treaty, 141.

Ashley, Gener<il W. H., u8.

Astor, John Jacob, 94, 106.

Astoria, 96, 100, 102, 104, 105, 107.

Athabaska, lake, 81.

.\ugur, Captain U. S. A., 276.

Avalanche, 3S9.

B

Baffin's bay discovered, 32.

Baker guards, the, 348.
Baker, mount, 79.

Bandon, 4S9.

Battle Kock, siege of, 471, 473.

Bear creek, Indian tight on, 214.

Beaver money, 170.

Beekman, C. C. 363.

Behring Straits discovered, 35, 60.

Benton Senator T. H., 163, 164.

Berkeley, Capt., re-discovers Straits of

Fuca, 66.
Big Bar, 374.
Big Meadows, 266, Smith's tight at,

279, 281.
Bitter-root Mountains, 86, 91.
Blackburn's Ferry, fight at, 188.
Blanchet, Revs. F. N. and A. M. A.,

132, 136, 156, 170.
Blanco, Cape, discovered, 30, 54, 76.
Bledsoe, Capt., 282.
Bloody Point Massacre, 204.
I'.Uie Mountains, 102, 123, 148.
liodega y Quadra, J. F. de, 52, 54.
Bohemia mines, 392.
Boise Fort, 125.

Bonneville, Capt. B. L. E., 123, 125.
Boundaries of the United States, 47, 84.

Browntown, 455.

Brouillet, Father J. B. A., 15S, 159.
Bruce, Major James, 256, 2S2.
Bucareli, Port, 54.
Buccaneers, 20, 22, 32, 33.
Buchanan, Lieut-Col. U.S.A., 276.
Buford or Beaufort, James, killed, 272.
Butte creek, war upon, 258.

Cabeza-Vaca, N. A. de, 16.
Cabrillo, Juan Rodriguez, 18.
California Lower, discovery of, 15;
attempts to colonize, 15, 33; Mis-
sions, 38; Upper California, first
exploration, 18; missions, 44.

Calilornia, Gulf of, 16, 44; population
of, 46: mines, 169, 170.

Camas Prairie, 406; valley, 421.

Camp Leland, 254.

Camp Stewart, 215.

Canada, 47.

Canneries, 488, 4S9.

Canyon, emigrant suffering in the, 149.

Canyonville, 425;

Carver, Jonathan, 48, 49.

Cascades of the Columbia, 87.

Cascade mountains, 148, 387.

Cascades massacre, 176.

Casey, Lieutenant-Col. Silas, 200, 474,
475.

Catching creek, 486.

Catholic Missions, 132, 135 to 157, 151.
15s. 157-

Cave fight, the, 233-4.

Cayuse Indians, 89, 130, 152, 153,
106 to 165.

Census of 1849, 169.

Chapman, Lieutenant-Colonel W. W.,
264-S, 268,

Chetco Indians, 271; description of,
481

Chinese, 346.

Chinook Indians, 78, 87, 104.

Chipewyan, fort. Si.

Cibola, fabulous city of, 16, 17.

Civil Bend, 421.

Clarke's Fork of the Columbia, 86.

Clatsop, fort, 87.

Clearwater river, 86.

Cleveland, 428.

Climate, 299.

Cluggage, James, 359.

Coal, 394, 493.

Coats, Onsby and Long murdered,
205.

Coast Indians, 271.

Coast Mail newspaper, 494.

Coast Range mountains, 389.

Cockstock killed at Oregon City, 154.

Cole's valley, 426-7.

Colorado river, 16, 17, 118, 119, 123.

Columbia river, 49, 53, 67, 76, 78, 80,
S3, S7, 96, 106, 114.

Columbia, ship, second voyage of, 76.

Columbus, Christopher, 10.

Concomly, Indian chief, 105.

Conasset, fabulous city of, 27.

Congregational missions, 1 28, 1 32, 151
to 160.

Congressional debates, 142, 149, 164
to 167.

Cook, Capt. James, voyage of, 55'

491.
Cook's inlet, 60, 66.
Coos, origin of name, 496.
Coos Bay, 490; discovery of, 491; bar,

496-7.
Coos Bay company, 492.
Coos Bay Neius, newspaper, 494.
Coos county, 483, 499; boundaries of,

496.
Copper mines, 457.
Coppermine river, 50.
Coquille massacre, 271-2; river, 484,

490; Herald, newspaper, 487; Co-
quille river bar, 490; origin of name,

496; City, 487.
Coionado's invasion of Cibolo, 18.
Cortereal, Caspar de, 13.
Cortes, Hernando de, 14 to 17.
Cow creek, murder of miners on, 212;

disturbances, 257, 258; description,

etc., 423, 424, 425.
Cowlitz river, 117.
Carter lake, 308, 311.
Crespi, Father, 45.
Crowley, Miss M. L., 462.
Crooks, Ramsey, 100, 103.
Culver, Indian agent, 271.
Curry county, war in, 270; description

and history, 465, 482.
D
Dalles, The, 102. 131, 137, 153, 156,

159-
Dardanelles, the, 215, 379.
Dart, Dr. Anson, Indian commissioner,

474-
Day, John, 100 to 103.
Deady, Judge M. P., 221, 363, 366,

367, 446.
Deer creek, 452.
De la Matter mine, 453.
Demers, Father Modest, 151.
Denmark, 476.
DeSmet, Father P. J., 132.
Destruction island, 53.
Dilley, murdered at Phnenix, 196.
Disappointment, Cape, 53, 67, 77,

78, 87.
Douglas county, 3S3, 442; boundaries

of, 404, 406; statistics, 407, 408.
Drain, 431, 432.
Drake, Sir Francis, 20, 22.

Eagle Point, 376.

East India Company, 64.

Edgecumb, Mount, 53, 59, I06.

Edwards, Edward, 213.

Edwards, P. L., 127, 131, 132, :S6.

Eells, Rev. Gushing, 131, 139.

Eight Dollar Mt., fight at, 264, 265,

452, 453-
Elk creek, 477.
Elk Head, 441.
Elkton, 402, 405, 434.
Ellensburg, 478, 4S0.
Ely, Lieutenant Simeon, 217,218.
Emigrations, yearly, 1 37, 143, 147, '48.
Empire City, 493.
English explorations, 20, 32, 47, 55 to

61, 64 to 68, 761081.
Enos, Indian, 273, 183.

Esther mine, 333, 463.

Evan's creek, campaign of, 21S, 220.

Fairweather, mount, 59.

Ferrelo, discovers Cape Mendocino, 18.

Fields and Cunningham murdered, 240,

241.
Fitzgerald, Major, U. S. A., 206, 209,

246, 255.
FiveCrows, Indian chief, 153, 15S, 161.
Flat-head Indians, 127.
Flattery, Cape, 52, 7S.
Flint. A. R., 402, 403.
Floras creek, 476.
Fonte, Admiral de, 27.
Foot's creek, 185, 1S6, 379.
Forests, 390.
Fort Boise, 125.
Fort Briggs, 452, 454.
Fort Hall, 125, 137, 138, 14S.
Fort Hays, 452.
Fort Jones, 209.
Fort Lamerick, 278.
Fort Lane, 231.
Fort Orford, 275.
Fort Umpqiia, 301, 397, 399-
Fort Vancouver. 114, 115, 124.
Fort Walla Walla, 123, 129, 137, 156,

159, 175, 176.
Fowler mine, 331-2.
Franciscan missionaries in California,

43-
Fraser river, 81.

Fremont, Lieutenant J. C, 145, 187.
French explorations, 48, 63.
Frizzell and Mungo killed, 229.
Fuca, Straits of Juan de, 23 to 26, 52,

57. 66, 75, 76, 78.
Fur trade, 34 to 37, 61, 63, Si, 82, 91,

93, 100 to 104, 106 to 113, 114 to

Gaines, Governor, treaty with Indians,
199- 336.

Galice creek, supposed murder of
miners at, 20S; siege of, 250-1; de-
scription, 460-1.

Gania, Vasco de, 11.

Gardiner, 402, 436.

Geisel family, the, 274, 478-9.

Geoige, fort, 104, 107.

Ghent, treaty of, 106.

Gibbs, A. C, 402.

Gilliam, Colonel Cornelius, 160, 161,
■163.

Glendale, 426.

Gold Ik- . !: ;n ;^ ,. . 274.

Gold. .1^ I u.

Gold 11. , ■-, j;S.

Goodall, L_L, :. |. .!.._-, 206, 215, 21S,

234.
Grand Ronde valley, 102, 123; battle

of, 176.
Grant's Pass, 3S0.
Grave creek, 462-3; Indians, 199, 208,

213.
Gray, W. H., 129, 131, 139, 145.
Gray, Capt. Robert, 68, 72, 76.
Gray's Harbor, 78, 80.
Great Slave lake. Si.
Green valley, 439.
Green river, 118, 122.
Griffin, B. B., 216.

H
Hahn, Capt., 385.
Hall, fort, 125, 137. 138, 148.
Harding and Rose killed, 217.
Harkness killed, 266.
Harris family, the, 246.

Hawaiian Islands, 56, 60.

Hearne, e.xplorations of Samuel, 50.

Heceta, Bruno d-, 52, 53.

Hedden, Cyrus, 471, 474-

Hermann, Dr., 485.

Hermansville, 485.

Hines, Rev. Gustavus, 132, 136, 146,

>53-
Hitchcock, General, U. S. A., 200.
Hooker, Colonel Joseph, U. S. A.,

339-
Horn, Cape, discovered, 32.
Hudson's Bay, 13, 32, 47.
Hudson's Bay Company, 33, 50, 81,

loS to 126, 148, 397, 399.
Hull, Charles W. killed, 259.
Humboldt river, 119, 122.
■'Humbug war," 238, 240.
Hungry Hill, campaign of, 251, 253,

464.
Hunt, Wilson P., e.xpedilion of, 100 to

103, 105.

Illinois valley, 451.

Immigration of 1845, 137; of 1843,

143: of 1844, 147.
Irvin, Lieutenant U. S. A., kidnapped,

200.

J
Jackson county, description of, 306,

315: history of, 315, 382.
Jackson creek, 337.
Jackson Rangers, 349.
Jacksonville, 359.
"Jesuit missionaries in lower California,

38, 42-
Joe, Chief of the Rogue River Indians,

263.
Joint occupancy of Oregon, loS, 113,

126.
John, Chief of the Applegate Indians,

190, 216, 217, 279, 281, 284.
John Day Rivei, 8S. 103, 148.
Jones, Capt., U. S. A., 275.
Josephine creek, discovered, 447.
Josephine county, 446.
judah, Capt. H. M., U. S. A., 233.
Jump-off-Joe creek, 461.

Kamiakan, Indian chief, 174, 176.
Kautz, Lieut. A. V., U. S. A., 221,

251.
Kearney, Gen. Philip, 197.
Keene, Granville, killed, 240.
Keeney, Captain Jonathan, 261.
Kelsev, Colonel John, 265.
Kendrick, Captain John, 68.
Kerbyville, 453, 454.
ICing ( ;curge III. Archipelago, 53.
King ( ieorge Sound Company, 64.
Kino, Father, 33. 38, 39.
Klamath Indians, 1 78.

K!an

13'-

Klickitat Indians, 183.*
Kyle, James C, killed, 231.

Labrador, straits of, 13.

Lamerick, General J. K., 202, 254,

262, 266, 282.
Lane, Gen. Joseph, 16S, 198, 217, 222.
La Perouse voyage of, 63.
Lapwai Mission, 130, 132, 155.
Latshaw, Major, 281.
LeBreton, George W., 136, 146, 153,

154-
Ledford massacre, 346, 347.
Leivard, John, efforts to cross the

Continent, 63.
Lee, H. A. G., 160.

. 132, 136, 146.
ition, 85, 92.

LeN\i>. Joe, 157 to 159.
Limestone, 321.
Long Prairie, 438

Looking-glass, 417, Indians of, at-
tacked, 257.
Loretto, Mission of Our Lady of, 40.
Lost river fight, 207.
Lowden's ferry fight, 1S8, 189.
Louisiana, Province of, 47, 84.
Lovejoy, A. Lawrence, 139, 150.
Lower California, colonized, ^;i.
Lupton massacre, 243.

M
Mackenzie, Alexander, explorations of.

81, 82; Mackenzie river, 81.
Magellan, 11, 13.

Maldonado and theSlraitsof Anian, 22.
Mandan Indians, 86.
Marple, P. B., 491.
Marshall, James W., 169.
Marshfield, 494, 495.
Martinez, Estevan, voyages of, 52, 69:

Nootka controversy, 71.
Mary's river, (see Humboldt).
Mrssacre on October ninth, (855, 24-I.
Maurelle. Antonio voyages of, 52, 6:.
McBean, William, 159.
McKay, Alexan.ler, Tom and William
C, 95, 121, 129, 138, 152, 156,161.
McKinlav, Archiiwld. 1 58.
McLaughlin, Dr. John, 121. 136, 153.
McLaughlin, Joseph. 122.
McLeod river, 122.
McTavish, J. G., 104.
Meachani, A. B., 207.
Meadows, first campaign of the, 256;

second campaign, 266, 269.
Meares, Captain, voyages of, 58, 65,

6S, 71-
Medford, 375.
Meek, Joseph L. and Stephen II., 133,

137, 146, 148, 166, 168.
Mendocino, Cape, discovered, 18.
Mendoza, Antonio, Viceroy of Mexico,

16, 18.
Merchants' and Farmers' Navigation

Co., 3S5.
Methodist missions, 127, 130, 131, 132.

135 I" 137. 151. 154-
Meteorological tables, 300.
Miller. Captain John F., 331, 232.
Mines and Minerals, 321 to 333, 392

to 394-
Mis^i,,ns in California, 38.
Missions in Oregon, 127 to 133, 151.

154.
Missionaries, 127, 159.
Missouri Fur Co., 92, 118.
Missouri river, 86, 91.
Modocs, 187, 204, 207, 349.
Molalla Indians, 154.
Montcrrv, Ibv of, 29, 45.
M..nm M. Klias, 60.

Murphy's creek, 459; fight at, 280.

Myrtle creek, 422, 423.

Myrtie Point, 4S5.

N

Nesmith, J. W., 148, 221, 223.

New Archangel, 106.

Nez Perce Indians, 86, 90, 123, 128.
130, 132, 153.

Ninth Regiment, 293, 296.

Nisqually, missions at, 151, 174.

Niza, Father Marcas de, pretended ex-
plorations of, 17.

Nolan, Rhodes, 214.

Noolka convention, 73, 74.

Nootka Sound, 51, 54, 64, 66, 70, 73,
75, 81.

Xorlh Bend, 495.

North Sea, 11.

North Umpqua river, 389.

Northwest Fur Co., of Montreal, 81,
91, 100, 107 to 109, 113, 114.
O

Oak Flat, council of, 279.

Oakland, 406, 428, 430.

Ogden, I'eter Skeen, 122, 159.

Ogden's river (see Humboldt).

Olympus, Mount, 52.

Ord, Capt. E. O. C, U. .S. A., 277.

Oregon, first discoveries, 18, 20, 30;
origin of name, 49, 50, S3; joint oc-
cupancy, 108, 113; missions 127 to
133; first efforts at self-government,
133; boundary, 141: white popula-
tion of, in 1843, 143; subdivided,
170.

Oregon and California railroad, 381,
3S2, 396, 411, 424, 462.

Oregon City laid out, 137; Indian fight
at, 154.

Oreifoii Senlinel, newspajjer, 369.

Oregon trail, the, 338, 447, 449, 461.

Orford, Cape, 30, 54, 76.
P

Pacific Fur Co., 95, 104.

Pacific Ocean, discovery of, 11; early
explorations, 15.

Palmer, Joel, 221,

Palouse river, 87, 103.

Palouse Indians, 103.

Pambrun, P. C, 129.

Parker, Rev. Samuel, 128, 151.

Parkersburg, 488.

Peo-peo-mux-mux, Indian Chief, 88,
153, 175-

Perez, voyages of Juan, 51, 52.

Peters Philip, 400.

Philip II., orders survey of northwest

Philippine Islands subdued by Spain,

19-
Phillips, Edward, killed, 236.
Philpnt killed, 237, 452.
I'hoenis, 374.
Pikhei. M,ijor, 122.
Pirmecrs, s..ciety of, 35 1.
Poland, Captain, 273.
Portala, first governor of California, 44.
Port Orford, 200. 471, 477.
Port San Lorenzo, 51.
Post, newspaper, 480.
Prim, Judge P. P., 361.
Prince William's sound, 60, 65, 69
Printing, first in Oregon, 132.
Provisional government of Oregon,

133. 135. '45. 146.
I'ligcl S.iund Agricultural Co., 1 70.
Puget Sound explored, 79.
Putnam Valley, 438, 439.

Q

(Quadra, Bodega y, 52, 62, So.
(Quartz mining, 326, 333, 392, l<)l,

456, 466.
Queen Charlotte's Island, 51, 79.
Quicksilvei, 321, 593, 394.
(juivira. Fabulous City of, jr.

R

Rainfall, 300.
Ranier, Mount, 79.
Randolph, 492; mines of, 4S9.
Rawlins, Miss Josephine, 447.
Ricortkr, newspaper, 476.

Red River of the North, 50; settle-
ments, 109, 134; emigrants, 137.
Redwood grove, 482.
Reyes, Rio de los, 26 to 28, 48,49, 54,

59, 76- .
Reynolds, Major U. S. .\., 272, 274.
Rhoades, Jacob, 215.
Rice settlement, 257, 420.
Rice valley, 440.
Riddle, 424.

Rinearson, Capt. Jacob, 247, 249.
Rock Point, 379,
Rocky mounlains, 48, 85, 118.
Rocky Mountain Fur Company, 119,

122, 123.
Rogue river, 312, 313.
Rogue River Indians, 178, 185, 190,

202, 216, 302, 304, 378.
Rollins (see Rawlins.)
Roseburg, 403, 405, 416.
Roseburg and Coos Bay railway, 396,

494. 499-
Ross, General John E., 160, 205, 206,

213, 220, 234, 249, 251, 328, 345,

349. 464-
Russian explorations in the Pacific, 34

to 38.
Russian American Trading Company,

36, 63, 106, 117.
Ryswick, treaty of, 47.

S
Sahaptin river (see Snake.)
Sailor Diggings (see Waldo.)
Saint Elias, Mount, discovered, 35, 59.
Salt Lake, Great, 118.
Salva-Tierra, Father, 38.
Sam and Joe, chiefs of the Rogue

River.s, 210, 211.
Sandwich Islands, 56, 60, 6S, 93.
San Diego mission, 43.
San Jacinto, Mount, 53.
San Francisco Bay discovered, 21, 29,

45-
San Lorenzo, Port, 5l.
San Roque, river of, 53.
Sauvies' island, 88.
Saskatwchewan river, 81.
Scott, Capt. Levi. 148, 302, 400, 401.
Scurvy, sufferings of Spanish explorers,

iS, 29, 30.
Scottsburg, 385, 401, 402, 435.
Second regiment, O. M. V., 260, 265,

286, 292.
Selkirk's Red River settlements, 109.
Serra,' Father Junipero. 43 to 46.
SettlemeiUs in Oregon, 130, 134, 152.
Shasta Indians, 178, 189.
Sheep, 395.

Simpson, Sir George, 137.
Siskiyou mountains, 122, 131.
Siuslaw river, 384, 440.
Sitka, Alaska, lo6.
Sixes river. 476.
Skinner, Judge A. A., 150, 199, 202,

Slate creeC, 459-

Smith, Capt. A. J., U. S. A., 223,
m, 239. 277. 279-

Smith river, 383, 439, 44°-

Smith, Jedediah S., iiS, 120, 122,
184. 399.-

Snake river, 86, 100, 125.

South Sea, discovery of, 10.

South Sea Company, 64.

Southern Oregon, history and descrip-
tion of, 297, 499.

Southern Oregon emigrant road, 148,
302.

Southern Oregon Improvement Com-
pany, 494, 499.

Spanish explorations, iS, 29, 30, 31,
51, 52, 53, 62, 69, 75, 79.

Spalding, Kev. H. H., 129, 133, 139,
152, 157-

Spokane, fort, 103, 104; mission, 132.

Steele, Elijah, 201, 202, 203.

.Stevens, Gov. \. I., 173, 176.

.Stewart, Captain, U. .S. A., 197.

Steptoe, Col. E. J., 176.

Stock, 394.

Straits of Anian, 17, 20, 23.

Stoneman, Lieutenant, 475.

Sucker creek, 544, 455.

Sumner, 495.

Sutter, Captain John A., 131, 169.

Sutton, J. M., 464.
T

Table Rocks, the, 377, 37S; reserva-
tion at, 231.

Table Rock band, 263.

Tal'U Rock Stitlincl, newspaper (see
Oregon Smlinel. )

Table Rock treaty, 221, 224.

Tallent, 380.

Tam-su-ky, Cayuse chief, 156 to 162.

Tedford and Rouse attacked by In-
dians, 224.

Temperature, 300.

Ten-mile valley, 419.

Territorial government of Oregon, 163,
176.

Thornton, J. Q., 150, 164, 167.

Tichenor, Capt. Win., 471, 473, 478.

Tierra, Father Juan Maria Salva, 39.

Timber, 390.

Tipsu Tyee, 201, 211, 216, 230, 233.

Tonquin, ship, 95, loo.

Touchet river, 90.

Townsend, Port, 79.

Trappers, character of, 125, 126.

Treaties — Nootka, 73; Ghent, 106;
Ryswick, 47; Ashburton, 141; of
1S46, 149.

Trinidad, bay of, 52.

Tukannon river, 87.

T'Vault, W. G., 197, 369, 370, 372,
377, 473-

Tyee George, 547.
U

Ugarte, Father Juan, 38, 41.

Ulloa, Francisco de, explorations of,
16.

Umatilla river, 88, 124.

Umpqua City, 402, 438.

Umpqua county, 403, 405, 406.

Umpqua, Fort, 184, 301, 397, 399.

Umpqua Indians, 178, 182, 183.

Umpqua river, 21, 30, 117, 119, 184,
384, 399. 401.

V

Vancouver, Capt. George, 74, 81.

Vancouver Island, 51, 80.

Vancouver, Fort, 80, 1 14, 115, 124.

Viscaino, Admiral Sebastian, 29, 31.

Voyageurs, 95.

Wagner, Mrs., killed, 245.

Wagons first taken to Oregon, 129,

137, 142.
Waiilatpu, 130, 1 38, 152.
Waldo, called Sailor Diggings, 229,

456, 457-
Walker, Rev. E., 131, 139.
W'alker, Capt. Jesse, 235.
Walla Walla, fort, 123, 129, 137, 156,

159. 175. '76-
Walla Walla Indians, 88, 102, 103.
Waller, Rev., his zeal, 152.
Willamette Cattle Company, 130, 1S6.

War— Cayuse, l6o; of 1853, 214, 232;

of 1855-6, 244, 296,
Wascopum Indians, 102, 153.
Washington tenitoiy organized, 170,

174-
Western University, 345.
White, Dr. Elijah, 137, i5i, 154.
Whitman, Dr. iVIarcus, 12S; overland

journey, 137 to 142.
Whitman massacre, 150, 159.
Wilkes, Commodore Charles, 136, l86,

301.

^\•i

437.

Willamette river, 88.
Williams' creek, 458.
Williamsburg, 458, 459.
Williams, Capt. M. JM., 265.
Williams, Col. R. L., 260, 262.
Willow Springs, 332, 377; Indian fight

at, 196.
Wilderville, 459.
Wills, Thomas, 213.
Winchester, 402, 404, 405, 408, 432.
Winchester, Payne & Co., 401.
Winchuck river, 481.
Winnipeg settlements, 109.

Wolf meeting, the, 145.
Woodman, Calvin, murder of, 20
Woodville, 380.

Wool, General John E., 175, 275,
Wright, Gen. 203, 272, 274.
Wright, Col. George, 176.
Wyeth, Nathaniel f., 123, 125, 12

Y
Yakima Indians, 174-5-6.
Yellept, Chief, 88.
Yellowstone river, 86; 91.
Yoncalla, 401, 433.
Young, Ewing, 123, 130, 135, 18

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PACIFIC COAST,

CHAPTER I.

DISCOVERY OF THE PACIFIC.

Prehistoric— The New World Divided between Spain and Portugal— Discovery of the South Sea Voyage of
Magellan— Naming the Pacific —Cortereal and the Straits of Anian.

Intense glooiu enshrouds the history of the Pacific coast prior to the sixteenth
century. The investigations of the geologist have revealed how the great inland arms
of the ocean gradually became land-locked seas whose receding waters left behind the
deposit of alluvium brought down from the mountains by the thousands of small
streams pouring into them, by which process were evolved the great fertile valleys
whose names have become the synonyms of abundance ; but of its history they are
silent. The patient researches of the archaeologist have here and there cast a faint ray
of light into the encircling gloom, but the fleeting outlines thus momentarily revealed
serve but to confuse the mind and render more intense the deep shadow hanging over
all. What races of human beings have acted here the great drama of life, their wars,
customs, manner of living, religious beliefs and the degree of civilization they attained,
are all hidden by an impenetrable veil. Here and there a voiceless skeleton disen-
toombed from its resting place for centuries far beneath the verdant carpet of the earth
it once trod, silentl,y points to ages long before the stony lips of the Sphynx were
carved or the mighty Atlantis sunk beneath the seething billows of a convulsed ocean;
yet of those ages it reveals naught but the simple fact of their existence.

Rude monuments of rocks and mounds of earth, a few rough carvings in the
rocky walls of towering cliffs and crude paintings on the surface of huge stones, ob-
jects of superstitious awe and reverence to the simple natives, speak of races now
passed away, of whom the aborigines of to-day know nothing except the faint allusion
made to them in the legends of their ancestors. These traditions also speak of the
presence long years ago of a race of pale faced people who visited these shores i)i
ships, yet so intangible are they that scarcely a theory can be founded upon them ;
certainly nothing positive can be proved. That the Chinese or the Tartars in the
years of their great warlike strength and foreign conquests may have visited the west-
ern coast of America is far from improbable; in fact archaeologists have discovered
many evidences of such visits in the crumbled ruins of Mexico, Central America and
Peru, and in the customs and religious ceremonies of the people whom the conquering

10 PACIFIC COAST.

swords of Cortes and Pizarro so rutlilessly slaughtered ; but Oregon and Washington
offer but little testimony either to confirm or confute the theory. It is quite possible,
and even probable, that the traditions referred to had their rise in the visits of the
early Spanish explorers. Leaving these mysteries to be revealed by the investigations
of the future, let us step from out the shadow upon the lighted plain of authentic
record.

Inunediately upon the return of Columbus in the spring of 1493, with the start-
ling iutelligence that he had reached India in his voyage westward, for such was his
belief at that time, the Spanish sovereigns applied to the Pope, who then arrogated to
himself not only the spiritual but the temporal sovereignty of the universe, for special
grants and privileges in all lands thus discovered. Formerly the head of the church
had bestowed upon Portugal, which had for a century past been the foremost nation
in making voyages of exploration and discovery, sovereign rights in the south and
east, similar to those Spain now desired in the west. With an arrogance such as none
but the ruler of a universe can display and a munificence to be expected only from one
bestowing that which he does not possess or which costs him nothing, the successor of
Peter and God's representative upon earth drew a line from pole to pole across the
globe one hundred leagues west of the Azores, and assigned to Portugal all newly-dis-
covered lands lying east of it and to Spain all lying to the westward. This partition
was unsatisfactory to ambitious Portugal, and after two years of wrangling the obliging-
Pope moved his dividing line 270 leagues farther west.

Though the Portuguese were obedient to the Pontiff's decree and left Spain in un-
disputed possession of all its western discoveries, not ceasing, however, to make many
voyages of exploration, this was far from being the case with the English. The
sovereigns of that " tight little isle" were wont to be very independent in their conduct,
and had been accustomed for some time to show little respect for the temporal au-
thority of the Pope when it conflicted too strongly with their pyersonal, political or
territorial interests. It can well be imagined, then, that this partition of the undis-
covered world into equal portions between Spain and Portugal did not deter England
from making voyages of discovery to the new world and claiming sovereign rights over
all lands explored, a claim which neither the Pope nor his two pet subjects dared to
dispute. Following in the footsteps of her island neighbor and immemorial enemy,
France, and Holland also, ignored the papal bull and in later years grasped eagerly
after their share of the prize.

And what was this land towards which the eyes of the great nations of Europe
were turned ? It was, as they supposed, the west coast of India, the wonderful island
of Zipango and the fabulously wealthy land of Cathay described by Marco Polo.
Here was to be found the "gold of Ophir" which had enriched the kingdom of the
mighty Solomon, diamonds and precious stones in abundance, and the fountain of per-
petual youth. Imagination and legend had peojiled it with wonderful nations and
cities and had stored it with a wealth of precious stones and metals such as the known
portions of the globe never possessed. Love of dominion and cupidity, that great
ruling power in human nature, led them forward in the contest.

From 1492 to 1513, when Vasco Nunez gazed from the mountains upon the vast
"South Sea," many voyages of discovery were made, and the Atlantic coast of America.

PACIFIC COAST. 11

was exi)lored by the Spanish, Portuguese and English navigators from sunn}' Brazil as
far north as the icy shores of Labrador. These voyages had satisfied geographers that
not the India of the east, but a new continent, probably a great eastern extension of
Asia, had been found by Cohinibus, and that this must be crossed or circumnavigated
before reaching the hoarded treasures of Cathay. Indeed as early as 1498 Vasco de
Gama, a Portuguese, reached India by sailing eastward around the Cape of Good Hope,
and it was plainly evident that between that point (Calcutta) and the farthest point
yet reached to the westward lay many wide leagues of land and water, unexplored and
unknown. The idea prevailed that a great sea existed to the southwest beyond this
new land of America, an idea which was strengthened and supported by statementsof
the natives carried as slaves to Europe in every returning vessel, and, indeed, several
eftbrts had been made to pass into this unknown sea by going southward along the
coast of America. The title of "America" had been applied to the southern half of
our continent which was at first supposed to be separate and distinct from the northern
half, or Asia, as it was believed to be.

It was a quiet day in September, 1513, that Vasco Nunez de Balboa gazed from
the mountain tops of Central America upon the sleeping waters of the Pacific, upon
which the eye of a Caucasian then rested for the first time. Having crossed the nar-
row isthmus joining the two Americas from his starting point at the Spanish settle-
ment of Antigua on the gulf of Uraba, he was guided by a native to a point from
which he saw the unknown ocean glistening in the sun far beneath him. As at that
point the isthmus runs east and west, the Atlantic beating against its shores on the
north and the Pacific lapping its sandy beach on tlje south, he christened the latter the
'• South Sea," while the Atlantic was by way of contrast named the " North Sea ;"
though this latter title was soon transferred to a supposed ocean lying north of Amer-
ica, separated from the South sea by a narrow isthmus similar to that of Panama, and
connected with it by a short strait, as will aj^pear further on.

The announcement that this great " South Sea" actually existed led to increased
exertions to discover a route by which vessels could pass around America and traverse
the unknown ocean in search of the Indies. It soon became evident that America
united with the supposed land of Asia lying north of it to form a either new continent
hitherto entirely unknown, or a great southeastern extension of Asia equally a stranger
to geography. Exertions to discover the supposed southern passage to the great South
sea were then redoubled, and in five years were crowned with complete success. A
Portuguese navigator, a native of Oporto, but sailing under the Spanish flag, commanded
the first vessel that plowed Pacific waters, and to this expedition is due the furtlier
honor of making the first complete navigation of the globe, proving conclusively what
all geographers of the time had learned to believe, that the world was round and could
be encompassed by the traveler by going either east or west. The name of this cele-
brated navigator, whose voyage was second only to the one made by Columbus in 1402
in the knowledge it revealed of the earth's geography, was Ferdinando de Magalhaens,
spelled Magallanes by the Spaniards and by English authors given as Magellan. He
had made several voyages for Portugal via the Cape of Good Hope, but becoming dis-
satisfied had left his native land and entered the service of Spain, to again attempt for
that nation the effort of reaching the east by sailing westward. His special destination

12 PACIFIC COAST.

was the Moluccas, then claimed by Spain, and to aid him on his voyage he possessed a
chart upon which was designated a passage into the South sea ; but instead of the open
sea which it actually is, this chart exhibited a narrow strait piercing the body of the
southern half of America. The origin of this chart and the authority for marking
upon it such an utterly incorrect geographical feature, are unknown ; but the proba-
bilities are that the chart embraced tlie idea of some geographer as to what the nature
of the desired passage into the South sea must be, and was founded solely upon theory.
That this was probably the case is supported by the fact that a somewhat similar pass-
age was supposed to lead through North America from the Atlantic to the Pacific. In
fact it took nearly three centuries to prove the Straits of Auian to be utterly fabulous
and mythical.

On the twentieth of September, 1519, Magellan sailed from San Lucar with five
vessels and 265 men, reached Rio de Janeiro on the Brazilian coast December 13, and
coasted thence to the southward, carefully exploring every promising bay and inlet.
When he reached the broad estuary of the Rio de la Plata, he thought surely the long-
sought strait had been discovered, but all efforts to pass through the continent by that
route were completely unsuccessful. There was no passage through the huge rocky
wall of the Andes. Abandoning the attempt he sailed again southward, reaching Port
St. Julian, about 49° south latitude, on the thirty-first of March, where he remained
five months. August 24, 1520, he again resumed his search, and on the twenty-first
of October reached Cabo de las Virgenes, at the entrance of the long-sought straits,
having lost one vessel by shipwreck and one by desertion. With the remaining three
he passed through, naming the land to the southward " Terre del Fuego," because of
the many fires seen burning there. Upon the strait itself he bestowed the title " Vi-
torio," the name of one of his ships, though it has always properly been known
as the Straits of Magellan. His passage through them of thirty-six days was a tem-
pestuous and dangerous one, and when his vessel's prow cleaved the waters of the great
unplowed sea on the twenty-seventh of November, the contrast between its quiet and
smiling waters and the foam-lashed breakers of the tortuous strait was so great and so
suggestive that he bestowed the name Pacific upon it. This circumstance and title are
recorded in an account of the voyage written in Italian, by Antonio Pigafretta, after-
ward Caviliere di Rhodi, who accompanied the great explorer.

Immediately upon entering the Pacific ocean Magellan steered to the northwest to
reach a warmer climate, crossed the line February 13, 1521, arrived at the Ladrones
March 6, and at the Philippines on the sixteenth of the same month. Here he was
killed in a battle with the natives April 27, and the survivors of the expedition, num-
bering 115 men, continued the voyage under the leadershij} of Caraballo. They
touched at Borneo and other islands, and reached the goal of their voyage, the Moluc-
cas, on the eighth of November. One of the vessels, the Viforio, in command of Se-
bastian del Cano, sailed again westward from the Moluccas, rounded the Cape of Good
Hope, and reached San Lucar September 6, 1522, with only eighteen survivors of the
265 who started upon the expedition, having been gone three years and accomplished
the first complete circumnavigation of the globe. The new ocean was variously known
for a number of years as South sea, Magellan's sea and Pacific ocean, the last title
gradually superseding the others until it became universal.

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PACIFIC COAST. 13

This wonderful voyage naturally altered the popular idea of the new land which
Columbus had discovered. Tlie vast extent of the Pacific ocean and its apparently
unlimited stretch to the northward convinced the map makers that their former idea
was erroneous, and that the new land, or " Novus Mundus" as the name appears on
many ancient maps, could not possibly be an eastern extension of Asia. They then
came to believe that America and Novus Mundus were united by the Isthmus of Pan-
ama to form an entirely new continent, and that the true Asia lay still further to the
west across the new ocean. The direct and natural result of this idea was a belief that
a passage into the Pacific could be discovered by sailing around the north end of No-
vus Mundus as easily as Magellan had found one by going to the southward of America.
In fact such a jjassage as this was supposed to have been discovered in the year 1500
by the Portuguese navigator, Gaspar Cortereal, the first explorer of the coast of Labra-
dor. He passed through a strait into a sea which he believed and reported to be con-
nected with the Indian ocean. This mistaken idea was not so proven until modern
explorers demonstrated the fact that no such passage exists south of the ice-bound
waters of the Arctic ocean. He had in fact passed through the straits and entered
the bay afterwards entered and named by Hudson in his own honor. Upon the maps
for many years straits of this character, leading indefinitely westward, were marked
and called Straits of Labrador until their extent and the character of the sea into
which they led were revealed by the later explorations of Hudson and others. The
name Cortereal bestowed upon them, however, was Straits of Anian, though what was
the significance of the title has never been satisfactorily explained. The Straits of
Anian seemed in later years to become entirely disassociated in the minds of explorers
from the Straits of Labrador or Hudson, and the universal idea of them seems to have
been that of a narrow passage from sea to sea, between the continents of America and
Asia. What caused this peculiar notion it is impossible to state, and the supposed
passage is now universally referred to by historians as the "Fabulous Straits of Anian."
To find it the English, French and Spanish searched diligently along the Atlantic
coast, while the Spaniards, alone, sailing northward from the Pacific coast of Mexico,
explored along our western shore for more than two centuries before the belief in its
existence was finally abandoned.

Leaving the former and the results of their voyages to be referred to briefiy further
on, let us turn our attention to those voyages in the Pacific which made known to the
world the geography of the northern Pacific coast.

CHAPTER II.

EARLY EXPLORATIONS IN THE NORTHWEST.

Cortes Conquers Mexico and Turns his Eyes towards California— He Hopes to Reach the Indies by following
the Coast— California Discovered by Ximenes— Cortez Undertakes its Conquest— Tale of the Florida Refu-
gees—Voyage of UUoa— Wonderful Story of Friar Marcas - Coronado seeks Cibola and Quivira— Voyage
of Cabrillo and Ferrelo.

Immediately followiug the first discoveries by Columbus, Spain began to plant
colonies in the West India islands. Her enlightened sovereigns, Ferdinand and Isa-
bella, proposed to open at once the great storehouse of wealth this new land was popu-
larly supposed to be. Gold and jewels were procured from the natives by every possi-
ble means, including cheating in trade and conquest by the sword, and sent back to
enrich the mother country. The same year that saw Magellan set sail upon his voyage
around the globe, witnessed the inauguration of another enterprise fraught with great
results to the future of America. Hernando de Cortes entered Mexico with the sword
in one hand and bible in the other, bent upon winning riches and power for himself
and His Most Catholic Majesty, the King of Spain, and impressing upon the heathen
Aztecs the beauties of the ChrLstian religion with musketry and cannon. The details
of his bloody conquest it is needless to relate.

Having subjugated Mexico and overturned in blood the throne of the Montezumas,
Cortes looked westward for more countries to subdue and plunder of their accumu-
lated wealth. On the fifteenth of October, 1524, he wrote to Spain's most powerful
monarch, Charles V, that he was upon the eve of entering upon the conquest of Co-
lima, a country bordering on the South sea (Pacific ocean), and that the great men
there had given him information of "an island of Amazons, or women only, abound-
ing in pearls and gold, lying ten days' journey from Colima." Though Colima is the
name of one of the j^resent states of Mexico, there is but little doubt that Cortes re-
ferred to Lower California. This was the opinion of Miguel Venengas, who wrote in
1749: "The account of the pearls inclines me to think that these were the first inti-
mations we had of California and its gulf"

The idea held by Cortes was that possessed by geographers generally, that Amer-
ica, if not an actual portion of Asia, into which the Pacific projected a long distance
northward, was at least separated from that ancient continent simply by a narrow
strait ; and this idea, though founded simply upon theory, was wonderfully correct.
It was his plan to sail northward, along the coast until the Straits of Anian were
encountered, or failing in that, to continue westward and southward until he reached
the rich lauds of India. The fatal defect in this theory was in not ascribing to the
Pacific ocean and the American continent the magnificent proportions they were in
after years found to possess.

PACIFIC COAST. 15

At the time Cortes wrote his letter the Pacific coast had been several times explored
from the Isthmus of Panama as far northward as 350 leagues from that point. In
1522 he began the construction of several vessels at Zacatula to carry out his ideas,
and in 1526 they were joined by a vessel which had come through the Straits of
Magellan. In 1527 three of these vessels were completed and made a short voyage
along the coast ; but orders came from Spain to send them to India by a direct route
across the ocean instead of the long way along the coast proposed by Cortes. Other
ships were begun at Tehuantepec, but rotted on the stocks while the great conqueror
was in Spain. In 1530 he began the construction of others. Finally, in 1532, he
dispatched two vessels from Acapulco, reaching as far north as Sinaloa, both being
wrecked at different points, and their commanders and all but a few of the men slain
by the natives. The next year two more vessels were dispatched from Tehuantepec,
one of which accomplished nothing. The crew of the other one mutinied and killed
their commander, Becerra, and continued the voyage under the pilot, Fortuno Xim-
enes, landing upon the extreme southern point of the peninsula of California, in 1534,
where Ximenes and twenty of his men were slain in an encounter with the natives.
The survivors succeeded in navigating the vessel back to the main land, where it was
seized by Nufio de Guzman, the governor of Northern Mexico. He was a bitter
enemy of Cortes, and his rival in covering the advancing pathway of civilization with
a carpet of blood.

To resent this insult, Cortes sent three vessels northward by sea, and started him-
self, by land, at the head of a considerable body of troops. He changed his intention,
however, and embarking a large portion of his force upon the vessels which had met
him at Chiametla, he set sail for the new country discovered to the west by Ximenes,
which was said to abound in the finest of pearls. On the third of May, 1535, his
little squadron came to anchor in the bay where the mutineers had met their fate the
year before, and in honor of the day, which was that of the Holy Cross in the Koman
Catholic calendar, he bestowed upon it the name of Santa Cruz. This was probably
the one now known as Port La Paz. To this body of land the name of California
was soon after given, though by whom, for what reason and what is the significance
of the title remain perplexing questions to the present day, and this name gradually
expanded in its application until in after years it signified the entire Spanish pos-
sessions on the Pacific coast, that portion above the mouth of the Colorado being
known as Alta California.

Cortes landed upon this barren and inhospitable coast with 130 men and forty
horses, with visions of conquest floating before his mind. He hoped to find in this
new country another Mexico to yield its vast stores of gold, pearls and ornaments into
his bloody hands. Two of his vessels were at once sent to Chiametla for the remain-
der of his troops, and returned with but a portion of them. They were again dis-
patched upon the same errand, one only returning, the other having gone to the bot-
tom of the sea. Cortes then went to the Mexican coast in person, returning to Santa
Cruz just in time to rescue those he had left there from death by starvation. More
than a year's time had now been fruitlessly squandered, and explorations inland had
revealed the fact that the land was utterly barren and worthless. With the exception
of a few i)earls on the coast, the Spaniards had found nothing to tempt their cupidity.

IG PACIFIC COAST.

the great controlling power which bound them together and made them subservient to
discipline. Many had died and the remainder were mutinous. In the meantime the
wife of Cortes, hearing of his ill success, sent a vessel to Santa Cruz with letters, im-
ploring him to abandon his enterprise and return. News came at the same time that
a Spanish nobleman of high rank, Don Antonio de Mendoza, had been appointed to
supersede him as viceroy of New Spain, and had already installed himself in office in
the city of Mexico. He hastened to the mainland, leaving a portion of his forces
still at Santa Cruz, under the command of Francisco de Ulloa ; but finding his author-
ity in New Spain entirely gone and being much embarrassed financially by the ex-
penses of his unprofitable venture, he sent word to Ulloa to return, and in 1537 the
sandy deserts of Lower California were abandoned by the ragged remnant of that
little army of adventurers who had entered it with such high hopes two years before.

About this time there arrived in Mexico four wandering refugees whose story had
much to do with the nature of explorations for the next few years. They were Alvaro
Nuiiez de Cabeza-Vaca, two other Spaniards and a Negro or Moor. They had landed
in Florida in 1527 with a plundering expedition that invaded that portion of the
coast under Panfilo Narvaez. The company was almost exterminated by shipwreck,
famine and battle, and these four survivors wandered for nine years through the inter-
ior of the region bordering upon the gulf until they finally arrived in Mexico. Thej^
had encountered no civilized or wealthy nations in their long journey, but had been
informed, at various places, of populous countries inhabited by rich and civilized
races further to the northwest.

Mendoza was moved by these stories to invade the northwest. It was the civilized
nations the Spaniards were eager to subdue ; not because their conquest afforded them
more honor in a military sense, for their warfare was but a series of bloody butcheries
of unwarlike races whose undisciplined and unprotected masses, armed simply with
spears, were mowed down like grain by the cannon, musketry and steel of the mailed
warriors of Spain ; but because these civilized nations jaossessed the great stores of
gold and precious jewels which were the loadstone that drew these representatives of
European -chivalry to the New World. The viceroy organized a body of fifty horse-
men for the purpose of invading this new country, and then abandoned the idea, send-
ing, instead, two friars and the Moor to explore and report the true facts of the case
before he ventured upon more extensive efforts.

They departed in March, 1539, and on the eighth of the following July, Cortes, who
still claimed the right of exploration into the unknown ocean and government over
all lands discovered, having again equipped three vessels, sent them from Acapulco
under the command of Ulloa. One of these was soon wrecked in a severe storm, and
the other two proceeded to Santa Cruz bay and then coasted along Lower California
and Mexico, completely around the gulf that lies between them, failing, however, to
notice the mouth of the great Colorado river. This voyage settled many geographi-
cal questions, and the gulf was named by Ulloa the Sea of Cortes, though it was gen-
erally marked on Spanish majis as the Vermilion sea, and on those of other nations as
the Gulf of California. On the twenty-ninth of October, of the same year, Ulloa again
sailed from Santa Cruz, whither he had returned at the conclusion of his last voyage,
and sought to examine the coast westward as he had to the east. Passing around the

PACIFIC COAST. 17

Ciiyie, now called San Luca^^, he sailed slowly northward until about the first of Feb-
ruary, 1540, he reached an island near the coast in latitude 28°, which he named Isle
of Cedars. Headwinds and sickness held him here until April, and then the same
causes, coupled with a lack of provisions, compelled him to abandon his purpose of
proceeding further northward.

This voyage attracted but little attention, so absorbed were the mercenary adven-
turers in Mexico in the report of Friar Marcas de Niza of the wonderful things dis-
covered by him and his comjianions in the new region whither they had been sent by
Mendoza.

From these accounts, as contained in the letter addressed to the viceroy by Father
Marcas, and from other evidence, it is probable that the reverend explorer did really
penetrate to a considerable distance into the interior of the continent, and did find
there countries partially cultivated, and inhabited by people possessing some acquaint-
ance with the arts of civilized life ; though as to the precise situation of those regions,
or the routes pursued in reaching them, no definite idea can be derived from the
narrative. The friar pretended to have discovered, northwest of Mexico, beyond the
thirty-fifth degree of latitude, extensive territories, richly cultivated, and abounding in
gold, silver, and precious stones, the population of which was much greater, and further
advanced in civilization, than those of Mexico or Peru. In these countries were many
towns, and seven cities, of which the friar only saw one, called Gevola or Cibola, con-
taining twenty thousand large stone houses, some of four stories, and adorned with
jewels ; yet he was assured, by the people, that this was the smallest of the cities, and
far inferior, in extent and magnificence, to one called Totonteac, situated more towards
the northwest. The inhabitants of Cibola had, at first, been hostile to the Spaniards,
and had killed the Negro ; but they had, in the end, manifested a disposition to em-
brace Christianity, and to submit to the authority of the King of Spain, in whose
name Friar Marcas had taken possession of the whole country, by secretly erecting
crosses in many places.

Such was the account of the worthy friar, but the reverend gentleman drew en-
tirely too long a bow. That such a civilization could have existed there in the six-
teenth century and have completely disappeared from view by the eighteenth, is too
improbable to be credited. The ancient ruins of Arizona and New Mexico and the
customs and traditions of the Zuni and Moquis Indians, confirm the opinion that a
semi-civilized race inhabited that region centuries ago ; but nothing has been discov-
ered pointing to such dense population, cities of " twenty thousand large stone houses,"
or such wealth and civilization as the friar claimed to have observed. The probability
is that, encountering a semi-civilized race, and desiring to spread among them the
beauties of the Christian religion, he told these exaggerated stories to the viceroy in
order to induce him to invade and subdue this new country, for in those days the
jjathway for the bible was hewn by the sword. Related by a respectable priest who
claimed to have himself witnessed the wonders he portrayed, the story was fully cred-
ited, and Mendoza sent a combined land and sea expedition to reconnoitre and ojien
the way for a complete con(|uest of this great nation.

The marine portion, under the command of Fernando do Alarcoii, sailed fiom
Santiago INIay '.», 15-10, and discovered and entered the Colorado river in August, which

18 PACIFIC COAST.

was then named Rio de Xi(estm Sonora de Buena Guia, inhonov of the viceroy, whose
shield bore the above inscription. Alarcon ascended the stream in boats a distance of
eighty leagues, inquiring diligently for the seven great cities. From the Indians he
received many confusing accounts of wonderful riches and remarkable objects to be
found in the interior, accounts no doubt similar to those which had been the founda-
tion of Friar Marcas' wonderful tale. Completely baffled he returned to Mexico.

The land forces, consisting of cavalry, infantry and priests, a perfect complement
for the conversion of stubborn heathen, were under the command of a resolute soldier
named Francisco Vasquez de Coronado, a man intensely practical and unaccustomed
to drawing n^on his imagination when relating facts. After traversing many miles of
desert and mountain they reached a country for which Cibola appeared to be the gen-
eral name, though it was found to be entirely devoid of the refinement and riches
reported by Friar Marcas. The seven cities proved to be seven small villages, thinly
inhabited by a race but little removed from a savage state. The climate was agreeable
and the soil very fertile. Large stone houses, rudely built and unornameuted, were
found, which were later called cases gnuides de los Azteques (gi'eat houses of the Az-
tecs) by the Sjianish settlers, upon the theory that they had been erected by the Aztecs
while living in that region prior to their invasion of Mexico. Coronado left Cibola in
disgust and proceeded further towards the northwest, wandering for two years hither
and thither in search of the many fabulously rich countries the Indians were con-
stantly informing him were to be found somewhere else. Quivira in particular was
the object of great solicitude because of the reported wealth of its monarch ; but when
he reached it in latitude 40°, it proved to be a buffalo country and its inhabitants sim-
ply a race of hunters. If the latitude is correct, he must have penetrated as far north
as the Platte or headwaters of the Arkansas. He returned to Mexico in 1543 with
his faith in Indian stories shaken to its foundation stones. -

The next effort to explore the western coast was made in 1542, when Mendoza dis-
patched Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo with two vessels in search of the Straits of Anian.
Cabrillo examined the coast as far north as the 38th degree of latitude, when he was
driven back by a storm and forced to take refuge in a harbor called by him Port Pos-
session, in the island of San Bernardino, in latitude 34°. Here he died January 3,
1543, and the jjilot, Bartolome Ferrelo, took command and resumed the voyage north-
ward. He discovered near latitude 41° a cape which he named Cabo de Fortunas (Cape
of Perils), being no doubt the one subsequently named Mendocino in honor of the
viceroy, Mendoza. The furthest point northward reached by Ferrelo on the first of
March, 1540, is given by some authorities as 44° and others 43°, either of which
would be off the coast of Oregon ; and to this little vessel-load of adventurous men,
half clothed, living upon short allowance of food, and afflicted with scur^s-y, must be
given the credit of making the first discovery of the coast of Oregon, the prize for
Avhich great nations dis2:)uted for centuries.

CHAPTER HI.

SEARCH FOR THE MYTHICAL STRAITS OF ANIAN.

Spain Abandons the Effort- Growth of the East India Trade -Voyag-e of Sir Francis Drake— The Bay of San
Francisco— Rev. Fletcher's Romances -Other Freebooters Invade the Pacific— Maldonado's Description of
the Straits of Anian— Voyage of Juan de Fuca— Its Authenticity Discussed— Admiral Fonte's Voyage— Rio
de los Reyes.

The return of Ferrelo from his voyage along the coast, of Corouado from his ex-
plorations inland, and of the few survivors of DeSoto's expedition through Florida to
the Mississippi, conclusively proved that " neither wealthy nations nor navigable pas-
sages of communication between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, were to be found north
of Mexico, unless beyond the 40th parallel of latitude." Having established this
fact, the Spaniards desisted from their attempts to explore to the northwest of Mexico,
or to search for the Straits of Anian. The fact was that the discovery of such a pas-
sage between the two oceans was now looked upon as undesirable by them, in view of
the valuable trade they had established with the east.

From being the most energetic in searching for the Straits of Anian, the Span-
iards suddenly became extremely apathetic to outward appearance, but were by no
means so actually. Their interest in that supposititious passage was as lively as ever,
and they were now even more anxious that it should not be discovered at all than they
had formerly been to find it. The reason for this change of ideas is very simple.

Spain was now the complete master of Central America, Mexico and the West
India islands, which formed an important and almost vitally necessary intermediate
station between Europe and the Indies, a j^oint of advantage which no other nation
possessed. While she was securing this important foothold in the New World, Portugal
had bent her energies upon opening a trade with the Indies by way of the Cape of
Good Hope, and had succeeded in establishing a most valuable commerce with that
rich and populous region, which Spain viewed with envious eyes. She turned her
attention from the coast of America, and dispatched several armed fleets across the Pa-
cific to obtain lodgment in the Indies. After several unsuccessful attempts the Phil-
ippine islands were subjugated in 1564, and the practicability of crossing the Pacific
in both directions, which had at first been doubted because all efforts to return had
been made in the region of the trade winds, established beyond cavil. In a few years
Spain's commerce on the Pacific became extremely important. Annually large vessels
sailed from Central America with gold and merchandise, which were bartered for
spices, silks and porcelain in the Philippine islands and China. These were landed at
the Isthmus of Panama and transported across to vessels in waiting to convey them to
Spain. A larae trade was also carried on alone the coast to Peru and Chili.

20 PACIFIC COAST.

ExemjDtion from interference by rival nations was the secret of the immense
growth of this India trade. The annual galleon from India was loaded with a cargo
of immense value, and yet the ship bore no armament for defense. No flag but that
of Spain fluttered over Pacific waters, and there was no need of cannons. It was in
expectation of this condition of affairs that Spain ceased her efforts to find the Straits
of Anian. The discovery of such a passage would be most calamitous. Through it
could come hostile ships of war and • the freebooters who were wont in those days to
roam the high seas in search of plunder, and prey upon the defenseless commerce of
the Pacific. The length and precarious nature of the voyage into the Pacific through
the Straits of Magellan, served to keep that ocean for many years free from hostile
ships.

This exemption from outside interference could not last forever. Spain arro-
gantly claimed dominion over and the exclusive right of trade with all regions that
had been even technically discovered by Spanish navigators, even if no settlement of
any kind had been attempted. Foreigners of all nations were prohibited under pain
of death, from having any intercourse whatever with the territories claimed by the
Castilian monai'ch, or from navigating the waters adjacent to them. To such pre-
sumptuous conduct as this neither England nor France would submit. They willingly
respected all rights of dominion acquired by actual settlement, but this sweeping claim
to exclusive control of almost the entire New World they would not countenance for an
instant. The result was that English, French and Dutch " free traders" made sad
havoc with the Spanish shipping on the Atlantic coast of America ; and though the
nations were at peace, these plundering expeditions were winked at by the sovereigns,
who often directly and always indirectly received their share of the booty.

These roving marauders made great exertions to discover a northern passage into
the Pacific, urged on by the reports constantly received of the wonderful richness of
the East Indian commerce of Spain. These reports at last overcame the fears of
English seamen, and they invaded the Pacific by the passage of Magellan's tempestu-
ous straits.

There was one bolder and more reckless, more ambitious and successful than the
others, who won the reputation of being the " King of the Sea." In 1578, he thus
passed into the Pacific with three vessels, and scattered terror and devastation among
the Spanish shipping along the coast. He captured the East Indian galleon, on her
Avay home loaded with wealth, levied contributions in the ports of Mexico, and, finally,
with his one remaining vessel freighted with captured treasures, sailed north to search
for the Straits of Anian. Through it he proposed passing home to England, and thus
avoid a combat with the fleets of Spain, that lay in wait for him off the Straits of
Magellan. His name was Captain Francis Drake ; but afterwards the English mon-
arch knighted him for becoming the most successful robber on the high seas, and now
the historian records the name as Sir Francis Drake. When near the mouth of Ump-
qua river, in Oregon, he ran his vessel into a "poor harbor," put his Spanish pilot,
Morera, ashore, and left him to find his way back, thirty-five hundred miles, through
an unknown country thickly populated with savages, to his home in Mexico. This
feat must have been accomplished, as the only account existing of the fact comes
through Spanish records, showing that he survived the expedition to have told the

PACIFIC COAST. 21

result. Drake then continued his voyage until he had reached about latitude
43°, when the cold weather, although it was after the fifth of June, forced him to
abandon the hope of discovering the mythical straits. The chaplain who accompanied
the expedition, being the historian of the voyage, says of the cold, that their hands
were numbed, and meat would feeze when taken from the fire, and when they
were lying-to in the harbor at Drake's bay, a few miles up the coast from San Fran-
cisco, the snow covered the low hills. He then evaded the Spanish fleet by crossing
the Pacific and returning to England by the Cape of Good Hope. P'or a long time it
was believed that Sir Francis Drake discovered the bay of San Francisco ; that it was
in its waters he cast anchor for thirty-six days, after having been forced back along
the coast by adverse winds ; but now it is generally conceded that he is not entitled
to that distinction. Who discovered that harbor, or when the discovery was made,
will probably never be known. What clothes it in mystery is, that the oldest chart
or map of the Pacific coast known, on which a bay resembling in any way that of San
Francisco at or near the proper point, was a sailing-chart found in the East Indian
galleon captured in 1742, by Anson, an English commodore, with all her treasure,
amounting to one and a half million dollars. Upon this chart there appeared seven
little dots, marked " Los Farallones," and opposite these was a land-locked bay that
resembled San Francisco harbor, but on the chart it bore no name. This is the oldest
existing evidence of the discovery of the finest harbor in the world, and it proves two
things : first, that its existence was known previous to that date , second, that the
knowledge was possessed by the Spanish Manilla merchants to whom the chart and
galleon belonged. Their vessels had been not unfrequently wrecked upon our coasts
as far north as Cape Mendocino; and as Venegas, writing sixteen years later, says
nothing of such a harbor, we are led to believe that its existence was possibly only
known to those East India merchants, and was kept a secret by them for fear that its
favorable location and adaptation would render it a resort for pirates and war-ships of
rival nations to prey upon their commerce.

With Sir Francis Drake, unquestionably, lies the honor of having been the first
European to actually land upon the coast of California. The account of that event,
given by Rev. Fletcher, the chaplain of the expedition, states that the nativeS; having
mistaken them for gods, offered sacrifices to them, and that, to dispel the illusion, they
])roceeded to offer up their own devotions to a Supreme Being. The narrative goes on
to relate that —

Our necessarie business being ended, our General, with his companie, travailed up into the
countrey to their villiages, where we found heardes of deere by 1,000 in a companie, being most
large and fat of bodie. We found the whole countrey to be a warren of strange kinde of connies;
their bodies in bigness as be the Barbarie connies, their heads as the heads of ours, the feet of a
Want [mole] and the taile of a rat, being of great length ; under her chinne on either side a bagge,
into which she gathered her uieate, when she hath filled her bellie, abroad. The peojjle do eat
their bodies, and make accompt for their skinnes, for their King's coat was made out of them.
[The farmer will readily recognize the little burrowing squirrel that ruins his fields of alfalfa, where
the ground cannot be overflowed to drown them.] Our General called this countrey Nova Albion,
and that for two causes : the one in respect to the white baukes and cliftes which lie toward the
sea; and the other because it might have some aifiuitie with our countrey in name, which some-
times was so called.

22 PACIFIC COAST.

There is no part of earth here to be taken ujj, wherein there is not a reasonable quantitie of
gold or silver. Before sailing away, our General set up a monument of our being there, as also of
her majestie's right and title to the same, viz: a plate nailed upon a faire great poste, whereupon
was engraved her majestie's name, the day and yeare of our arrival there, with the free giving up
of the province and people into her majestie's hands, together with her highness' picture and arms,
in a piece of five jjence of current English money under the plate, whereunder was also written
the name of our General.

It is claimed by some English historians that Drake jjroceeded as far north as
latitude 48° ; but as the claim is founded simply upon the word of this lying chaplain
and is utterly inconsistent with other statements in the same narrative and is entirely
at variance with an account of the voyage Avritten by Francis Pretty, one of the crew,
and published within a few years after his return, it is worthy of but little considera-
tion. Fletcher's account was published by a second party in 1652, seventy years
later and long after the death of every man who could personally dispute its assertions,
and bears no marks of authenticity. Many passages are taken bodily from Pretty's
narrative, which seems to have been the foundation upon which a tissue of falsehood
and absurdities was erected. The assertion that snow covered the hills about San
Francisco in the mouth of June and that meat froze upon being taken from the fire,
is enough to condemn it all in the mind of anyone familiar with the fact that snow
seldom falls there even in winter, and that meat never freezes at any season of the
year. These facts are important ; for if Drake went to the 48th degree, he must have
coasted along Oregon and Washington nearly to the Straits of Fuca ; but if not, then
his furthest point northward was ofi" the mouth of the Umj)qua, no -further than
Ferrelo had gone in 1543. To the latter opinion the best authorities hold.

Other English freebooters, encouraged b}' the dazzling success of Drake, followed
his example, and for years Spain's commerce in the Pacific suffered many ravages at
their hands. Meanwhile the English and Dutch navigators continued their efforts to
discover the northwest passage, while the Spanish government was constantly excited
and alarmed for fear these indefatigable searchers would be rewarded with success.
Eumors that the Straits of Anian had been discovered were spread from time to time,
creating great consternation in Spain, Spanish America and the Philippine islands.
Several navigators pretended to have passed through these mythical straits, either to
give themselves importance in the nautical world, or to secure some employment in
their profession or emolument for the valuable services they thus claimed to have
rendered. The narrative of this character which attracted the most universal atten-
tion, was one of a voyage which was no doubt entirely fictitious, claimed to have been
made by Captain Lorenzo Ferrer de Maldonado, a Portuguese, and related by him in
a memorial to the Spanish Council of the Indies, wherein he petitiojied for a remuner-
ation for his valuable services and a commission to occupy and defend the passage
against the ships of other nations.

In his narrative, which was precise and careful in its details, were given all the
geographical ideas of the time in regard to the regions that would naturally be A'isited
during the voyage described, nearly all of which have since been proved to be erron-
eous. This fact is conclusive evidence that the narrative was a manufactured one and
the voyage a myth. In it the Straits of Anian are described as follows :

PACIFIC COAST. -23

The Strait of Aniau is iiften degrees in length, and can easily be passed with a tide lasting six
hours; for those tides are very rapid. There are, in this length, six turns and two entrances, which
lie north and south; that is, bear from each other north and south. The entrance on the north
side (through which we passed) is less than half a quarter of a league in width, and on each side
are ridges of high rocks; but the rock on the side of Asia is higher and steejDer than the other, and
hangs over, so that nothing falling from the top can reach its base. [The reader must bear in mind
that this narrator claims the previous course of the vessel to have been through the long and tor-
tuous channel of the Straits of Labrador in latitude 75^, from which it sailed southwest 790 leagues
to the entrance of these straits in the 60th parallel of latitude; also that the straits were supposed
to be a passage between Asia on the west, and America on the east, leading from this great North
sea into the great South sea.] The entrance into the South sea, near the harbor, is more than a
quarter of a league in width, and thence the passage runs in an oblique direction, increasing the
distance between the two coasts. In the middle of the strait, at the termination of the third turn,
is a great rock, and an islet, formed by a rugged rock, three estarf/a.s- (11,000 feet) in height, more
or less; its form is round and its diameter may be two hundred paces; its distance from the land
of Asia is very little; but the sea on that side is full of shoals and reefs, and can only be navigated
by boats. The distance between this islet and the continent of America is less than a quarter of a
league in width; and, although its channel is so deep that two and even three ships might sail
almost through it, two bastions might be built on the banks with little trouble, which would con-
tract the channel to within the reach of a musket shot.

Such is the only detailed description of the Straits of Anian, and it is thus given
in full because of the effect it had upon maritime explorations for two centuries there-
after. The author was evidently well posted on the maps and geographical theories of
the day, and prepared his narrative with careful consideration of them ; but he failed
in his cunning scheme, as the Council of the Indies not only denied his petition for a
reward, but also declined to entrust him with the fortification and defense of the valu-
able passage he claimed to have discovered. That to this story there was a foundation
of fact is within the limits of i^ossibility. There may have been made prior to the
time the memorial was presented, some voyage to the extreme northern Atlantic coast
of America, of which no record has been preserved. To have made the voyage
claimed as high as the 7oth parallel and passed through long straits into an open sea,
traversing this southwest 790 leagues (about 3,000 miles) is plainly impossible. That,
like Cortereal nearly a century before, he may have passed around the coast of Labra-
dor and through the straits, which are near the 60th parallel, into Hudson's bay, is
possible ; and, -like his great predecessor, he may have assumed that this sea could be
followed until the supposed strait leading into the South sea was found. Believing
thoroughly in this theory, Maldonado may have written this fictitious narrative with
the hope that it would gain for him the command of an expedition to go in search of
the straits and take possession of them. One thing is noticeable, and that is that in
Behring's straits we find the old theory that but a short and narrow passage separated
Asia arid America was a correct one.

The next supposed discovery of the Straits of Anian which attracted nuicli atten-
tion, was that claimed to have been made by Juan de Fuca while in the Spanish ser-
vice in the Pacific in lo*J2. The only account or record of this voyage was published
in 1025 in the celebrated historical and geographical volume called "The Pilgrims,"
edited by Samuel Purchas, being "A note made by Michael Lock, the elder, touching
the Strait of Sea commonly called Fretum Anian, in the South Sea, through the
Northwest Passage of Meta Incognita," Since this I'eputed voyage entered largely

24 PACIFIC COAST.

into the discussion and settlement of " The Oregon question," the main j)ortiou of Mr.
Lock's document is given, without attempting to jireserve the Old English orthography.
It says :

When I was in Venice, in April, 1536, haply arrived there an old man, about sixty j'ears of
age, called, commonly, Juan de Fuca, but named properly Apostolas Valerianus, of nation a Greek,
born in Cei^halonia, of profession a mariner, and an ancient pilot of ships. This man, being come
lately out of Spain, arrived first at Leghorn, and went thence to Florence, where he found one
•John Douglas, an Englishman, a famous mariner, ready coming for Venice, to be pilot of a Venetian
ship for England, in whose company they came both together to Venice. And John Douglas being-
acquainted with me before, he gave me knowledge of this Greek pilot, and brought him to my
speech ; and, in long talks and conference between us, in presence of John Douglas, this Greek
pilot declared, in the Italian and Spanish languages, this much in effect as followeth :

First, he said he had been in the West Indies of Spain forty years, and had sailed to and from
many places thereof, in the service of the Spaniards.

Also, he said that he was in the Sj^anish ship which, in returning from the Islands Philiji-
pines, towards Nova Spania, was robbed and taken at the Cape California by Captain Caudish,
Englishman, whereby he lost sixty thousand ducats of his goods.

Also, he said that he was pilot of three small ships which the Viceroy of Mexico sent from
Mexico, armed with one hundred men, under a captain, Spaniards, to discover the Straits of Anian,
along the coast of the South Sea, and to fortify in that strait, to resist the passage and proceedings
of the English nation, which were forced to pass through those straits into the South Sea ; and
that, by reason of a mutiny which hapjiened among the soldiers for the misconduct of their cap-
tain, that voyage was overthrown, and the ship returned from California to Nova Spania, without
anything done in that voyage ; and that, after their return, the caiDtain was at Mexico punished by
justice.

Also, he said that, shortly after the said voyage was so ill ended, the said Viceroy of Mexico
.sent him out again, in 1592, with a small caravel and a iJinnaee, armed with mariners only, to fol-
low the said voyage for the discovery of the Straits of Anian, and the passage thereof into the sea,
which they call the North Sea, which is our northwest sea ; and that he followed his course, in that
voyage, west and northwest in the South Sea, all along the coast of Nova Spania, and California,
and the Indies, now called North America, (all which voyage he signified to me in a great maj^, and
a sea-card of my own, which I laid before him), until he came to the latitude of 47 degrees , and
that, there finding that the land trended north and northwest, with a broad inlet of sea, between
47 and 48 degrees of latitude, he entered thereinto, sailing therein more than twenty days, and
found that land trending still sometime northwest, and northeast, and north, and also east and
southeastward, and very much broader sea than was at the said entrance, and that he passed by
divers islands in that sailing ; and that, at the entrance of this said strait, there is, on the northwest
coast thereof, a great headland or island, v/ith an exceeding high pinnacle, or spired rock, like a
pillar, thereupon.

Also, he said that he went on land in divers places, and that he saw some people on land clad
in beasts' skins ; and that the land is very fruitful, and rich of gold, silver, pearls, and other
things, like Nova Spania.

Also, he said that he being entered thus far into the said strait, and being come into the
North Sea already, and finding the sea wide enough everywhere, and to be about thirty or forty
leagues wide in the mouth of the straits where he entered, he thought he had now well discharged
his office ; and that, not being armed to resist the force of the savage people that might happen, he
therefore set sail, and returned homewards again towards Nova Spania, where he arrived at Aca-
pulco, Anno 1592, hoiking to be rewarded by the Viceroy for this service done in the said voyage.

* * * [Here follows an account of his vain endeavors for three years to secure a
proper recognition of his services by the Viceroy or the Spanish monarch, and his resolution to
return to his native land to die among his countrymen.] * * *

Also, he said he thought the cause of his ill-reward had of the Spaniards, to be for that they
did understand very well that the English nation had now given over all their voyages for discovery

ill ^^ ^ ^■'

PACIFIC COAST. 25

of the northwest passage ; wherefore they need not fear them anj- more to come that way into the
South Sea, and therefore they needed not his service therein any more.

Also, he said that, understanding the noble mind of the Queen of England, and of her wars
against the Spaniards, and hoising that her majesty would do him justice for his goods lost by Cap-
tain Candish, he would be content to go into England, and serve her majesty in that voyage for
the discovery perfectly of the northwest passage into the South Sea, if she would furnish him with
only one ship of forty tons' burden, and a pinnace, and that he would i^erform it in thirty days'
time, from one end to the other of the strait, and he willed me so to write to England.

And, from conference had twice with the said Greek jjilot, I did write thereof, accordingly,
to England, unto the right honorable the old Lord Treasurer Cecil, and to Sir Walter Raleigh, and
to Master Richard Hakluyt, that famous cosmographer, certifying them hereof. And I prayed
them to disburse one hundred pounds, to bring the said Greek pilot into England, with myself,
for that my own purse would not stretch so wide at that time. And I had answer that this action
was well liked and greatly desired in England ; but the money was not ready, and therefore this
action died at that time, though the said Greek pilot, perchance, liveth still in his own country, in
Cejjhalonia, towards which place he went within a fortnight after this conference had at Venice.

The remainder of the long document gives the details of correspondence held by
Lock with Juan de Fuca during the next few years, showing that up to 1598 the jiilot
was still willing to go with him to England, but that in 1602, when Lock had finally
finished his business in Venice and prepared to return to England, a letter to the
Greek failed to elicit a response, and the writer heard a little later that the old navigator
was dead.

Much controversy has been and is still being carried on among historians as to
whether such a person as Juan de Fuca ever lived, or such a voyage as Lock described
was ever made. Mexican and Spanish records of the period have been carefully
searched by those eager to prove the truth of this narrative, without revealing any
confirmatory evidence whatever. The negative the records, of course, could not estab-
lish. The voyage must stand or fall by the manner in which the narrator's geograph-
ical descriptions bear the light of modern investigation. One thing is clearly notice-
able ; its geographical descriptions of regions claimed to have been visited are far more
accurate than those of any navigator of the preceding or subsequent century in any
quarter of the globe ; and the narrative is entirely free from those extravagant asser-
tions in regard to the wonderful wealth of the people or magnificence of their cities,
contained in the accounts of voyages whose authenticity can not be questioned, which
assertions were always found to have been grossly exaggerated and often wholly the
creatures of imagination. Prima facie, then, it is more authentic than accounts of
nearly contemporaneous voyages of which undisputable records exist. Now to
examine its statements by the clear light of facts. Juan de Fuca locates his passage
between 47° and 48° of latitude, while the fact is that between the 48tli and 49th,
just such a passage as he describes exists. This is the entrance to Puget sound and
is still known as the Straits of Fuca. His account of the passage, its leading off in
all directions and its many islands, is substantially correct, and his error in locating
the entrance a few miles to the south is a far less grievous one than those made in
every account handed down to us of those times. The advanced age, length of time
elapsed and annoyances of his long efforts to secui-e his just reward, could easily account
for so slight an error when detailing the circumstances from memory alone ; and it must
be remembered that the account was written by Lock, a second party, and is liable to

26 PACIFIC COAST.

slight errors in statement, though probably none very material, as Lock was an intel-
ligent and respectable merchant and appears to have been an extremely careful and
methodical man. Fuca was in the passage twenty days, though he does not state that
he sailed straight along through it all this time, but must of necessity have spent
fully half his time in circumnavigating islands and running into bays while endeavor-
ing to follow the main channel. At the end of this time, saying nothing about the
number of miles traveled, he came out again into the open sea, su2:)230sing himself to
ha-ve passed through into another ocean. Here arises the difficulty most historians
have in reconciling the narrative with the facts ; and the difficulty exists, not in
the narrative itself, but in the fact that these historians have not sufficiently acquainted
themselves with the geographical theories which obtained at the time of Fuca's
voyage. They seem to think that he must necessarily have supposed that he had
gone clear through the continent into the Atlantic, an utter impossibility. Such was
most certainly not the case. The Straits of Anian were at that time believed to be a
passage running north and south, separating the continents of Asia iJnd America,
and extending from the South sea to the North sea. Across this North sea it was
many hundred leagues around the north end of America before reaching the Atlantic.
In sailing in a generally northward direction, therefore, between Vancouver island
and the main land of British Columbia and finally entering again into the Pacific
ocean, it was most natural for him to suppose that he had passed from the South sea
through the Straits of Anian into the North sea. He did not claim to have sailed
eastward, as so many historians seem to assume, for had the passage led so far in that
direction he would have doubted its identity with the Straits of Anian ; nor did he
claim to have entered the Atlantic, but simj^ly the North sea. It seems then that the
only evidence against its authenticity is the negative one of there being no record of
such a voyage in Spanish archives ; and this is at least partially explained by the state-
ment that neither the viceroy nor the king would recognize the services of the
navigator. For this reason, they may have permitted no record of the voyage to be
made. If Juan de Fuca made the voyage as narrated, then Spain's claim to the coun-
try for some distance above Puget sound, so far as the right of discovery is concerned,
was a good one, and the title conveyed from her through France to the United States
good to an equal degree. Another argument against it is the fact that even at the
time Fuca was pouring his tale into the willing ear of the English merchant, another
Spanish expedition was engaged in looking for this passage, and in the letter ordering
the exploration the reasons for doing so are set forth at length, though no allusion is
made to the Greek, who, according to Lock's narrative must have been importuning
the king for his reward at the very time the letter was written. It may be argued,
however, that Fuca's statements to the king may have been what induced him to order
this expedition, instead of the causes set forth in the royal mandate.

In 1708 there was j^rinted in a London magazine entitled Monthly Miscellany, or
Memoirs of the Curious, a most absurd and self-contradictory account of a voyage said
to have been made in 1640 from the Pacific to the Atlantic through a great chain of
lakes. Though it was probably invented by James Petiver, an eminent naturalist and
contributor to the magazine, yet it created a great sensation in England, France and
Holland, and was received with considerable faith for more than half a centurv.

PACIFIC COAST. 27

The narrator states that Admiral Pedro Bartholoine de Fonte, sailed from Calhio
ill April, 1640, with orders from the viceroy of Peru to exjjlore the Pacific for a north-
west passage and to intercept some Boston vessels which had been reported as b(jund
upon the same mission on the Atlantic coast. Since Boston was in 1640 but a small
struggling settlement and the Puritans were not looking for any northwest passage, it
would seem as though this statement alone was enough to have condemned the entire
narrative ; but as it was not published for sixty-eight years after that date probably
neither the writer nor the people stopped to consider the absurdity. The story informs
us that at Cape San Lucas Fonte detached one of his four vessels to explore the Gulf
of California and with the others continued up the coast. Having sailed for a long
time among islands which he named Archipelago of St. Lazarus, he finally reached, in
latitude 63 degrees, the mouth of a large stream christened by him Eio de los Reyes,
or River of Kings. He sent one vessel further up the coast under the command of
Bernardo, and then entered the river and followed it northwesterly until it opened out
into an immense lake filled with beautiful islands, which he named Lake Belle. It was
surrounded by a fine country, and the inhabitants were very hospitable in their treat-
ment of the strangers. Leaving his vessels at their large town, called Conasset, on the
south shore of the lake, Fonte and some of his jsarty continued their journey down a
large stream called Parmentier, though whether in boats or on foot along the bank the
narrative is silent, until they entered another lake further east. This he named in his
own honor, and then j^roceeded through a passage, called Strait of Ronquillo in honor
of one of his captains, into the Atlantic ocean, having thus passed entirely through the
American continent by water. It then goes on to state that he encountered a Boston
ship commanded by Nicholas Shapley, with whom, also, was the owner, Seymour Gib-
bons, " a fine gentleman, and major general of the largest colony in New England,
called JMaltechusetts." After exchanging courtesies with these strangers, whom he
decided to treat simply as traders and not as hostile explorers for the northwest passage,
he returned by the water route to Lake La Belle and thence in his vessels to the Pacific,
where he was again joined by Bernardo. The journey claimed to have been made in
the meantime by this lieutenant is equally wonderful. Having coasted as far as the
61st degree of latitude Bernardo discovered a great river, up which he ascended till he,
also, emerged into a large lake. He named these Rio de Haro and Lake Yelasco.
From the lake he went in canoes to the 79th parallel, but as the land was seen "still
trending north, and the ice rested on the land," he concluded to return. He was satis-
fied " that there was no communication out of the Atlantic sea by Davis's strait ; for the
natives had conducted one of his seamen to the head of Davis's strait, which terminated
in a fresh lake, of about thirty miles in circumference, in the 80th degree of north lat-
itude ; and there were prodigious mountains north of it." Satisfied from the report of
Bernardo and his own observations that the Straits of Anian did not exist, Fonte re-
turned with his fleet to Peru.

This story, so absurd in the light of motlern research, ami which was not juiblished
till long after the exjjlorers, if, indeed, there were any, had become imperishable dust,
was received with great credence ; though it was in every particular contradictory to
those of Maldonado and Juan de Fuca. For fifty years it was copied into all works
upon North America and many maps of the continent had indicated upon them a juis-

28 PACIFIC COAST.

sage such as Fonte's was supposed to have beeu ; and during the eighteenth century all
explorers of the northwest coast searched for the Rio de los Reyes, while inland expedi-
tions from the Atlantic coast kept the fact that such a river existed constantly befoi-e
them.

These various narratives, so entirely uureeoncilable with each other, all had their
firm supporters, and efforts have been made by historians at different times to prove each
one of them to be an ajjproximately correct account of a veritable voyage, but without
success. The only one that can exist for a moment in the light of the geographical
knowledge of to-day is that of the Greek pilot, Juan de Fuca, and to prove that, except
by inference and comparison, is impossible. They all served their purpose, however, to
stimulate the spirit of exploration, which has resulted in the spread of knowledge an<l
the advancement of civilization.

CHAPTER IV.

VOYAGES IX THE PACIFIC AND ATLANTIC.

Voyages of Viscaino— His Vain Efforts to have San Dieg;o and Monterey Occupied— The Lethargy of Spain-
Explorations of Henry Hudson and William Baffin— Dutch Navigators find the Atlantic and Pacific to be Con-
nected by an Open Sea and name Cape Horn— Freebooters Swarm into the Pacific by the New Route— Feeble
Efforts of Spain to Protect her Commerce— Attempt to Colonize Lov/er California— Organization of the Hud
son's Bay Company.

If Juan de Fuca's' statement was true, then the Spanish monarch was simjily
feigning indifference about finding and taking possession of the northwest passage ;
for in 1595, while the old pilot was in Spain, Philiji II. ordered a survey of the Pacific
coast. Of this move Torquemada says :

His majesty knew that the viceroys of Mexico had endeavored to discover a northern pas-
sage ; aud he had found, among his father's papers, a declaration of certain strangers, to the effect
that they had been driven, by violent winds, from the codfish coast on the Atlantic, to the South
Sea, through the Strait of Anian, which is beyond Cape Mendocino, and had, on their way, seen a
rich and populous city, well fortified, and inhabited by a numerous and civilized nation, who had
treated them well ; as also many other things worthy to be seen and known. His majesty had also
been informed that ships, sailing from China to Mexico, ran great risks, particularly near Cape
Mendocino, where the storms are most violent, and that it would be advantageous to have that coast
surveyed thence to Acapulco, so that the ships, mostly belonging to his majesty, should find places
for relief and refreshment when needed. Whereupon his majesty ordered the Count de Monterey,
Viceroy of Mesico, to have those coasts surveyed, at his own e.rpensi', with all care and diligence.

The phrase in italics in the above extract accounts for much of the delay in fully
exploring the northern Pacific coast of America, for the viceroys of Mexico wei'e strik-
ingly similar to the office-holders of to-day in their manner of carrying out enterprises
that were to be executed at their own expense. Writing half a century later Venegas
gives the following for the anxiety of Spain to learn more of the coast. It was the fear

sssa

m] iB^ [inii
IBl l^gjl Ipgi

1 ISI

H 1^ l^f

|B| l^g SIj

1

[^ ^ ^'^

1^ mi i^f

PACIFIC COAST. 2J

That in the meantime the English shouki fiml out the so-much-desired passage to the South
Sea, by the north of America and above California, which passage is not universally denied, and
one day may be found ; that they may fortify themselves on both sides of this passage, and thus
extend the English dominion from the nortb to the south of America, so as to border on our pos-
sessions. Should English colonies and garrisons be established along the coast of America on the
South Sea beyond Cape Mendocino, or lower down on California itself, England would then, with-
out control, reign mistress of the sea and its commerce, and be able to threaten by land and sea
the territories of Spain ; invade them on occasion from the E., W., N. and S., hem them in and
press them on all sides.

In compliance with his sovereign's mandate, the viceroy dispatched three vessels
from Acapnlco in the spring of lo9G, nnder the command of Bebastian Viseaino.
Beyond an attempt to plant two colonies, both of which were unsuccessful because of
the sterility of the country and the savage hostility of the natives, nothing wAs accom-
plished by this feeble pretense of obeying instructions. The viceroy was not permitted
to thus shirk the exjjense of making a proper survey of the coast ; for though he was
respited for a time by the death of the king in 1598, one of the first acts of Philip III.
after being securely seated upon the throne, was to command the viceroy to attend to
this matter without further delay. Viseaino was, in consequence, again sent out, this
time upon a genuine voyage of exploration. His two vessels and small fragata
were furnished with all the necessaries of an extended cruise, and he was accompanied
by pilots, draftsmen and j^riests, so that advantage could be taken of all discoveries and
proper records and charts made of them.

The fleet sailed from Acapulco May 5, 1002, and began exploring the coast at the
southern extremity of the peninsula of California. They were much baffled by a wind
blowing almost constantly from the northwest, which Torquemada says was produced
" by the foe of the human race, in order to prevent the advance of the ships, and to
delay the discovery of those countries, and the conversion of their inhabitants to the
Catholic faith." Added to this difficulty was the terrible malady, the scurvy, which
made sad inroads upon the healtli of the crews. They continued up the coast in spite
of these discouraging circumstances, entering the ports of San Quentin, San Diego and
JMonterey. Here it was found that sixteen of the seamen had died and that many others
were incapacitated by disease from performing duty ; and it Avas decided to send back
the ship commanded by Toribio Gomez de Corvan with the invalids. Corvan reached
Acapulco after a long and terrible journey with but few of the crew of his vessel alive.

A few days later, on the third of January, 1608, the two remaining vessels
renewed the voyage, and were s()(jn sejjarated in a gale, from the t'luy of which the
larger (nic took refuge in a bay spoken of in the record of the voyage as San Francisco,
where scart-li was made for a Sj^anish galleon w'hich had been wrecked there in 1595.
Tonjuciiiada says: "He anchored behind a point of rocks called La Punta de los
Raves, ill tlie port of San Francisco." It seems impossible that this could have lieen
Sail Francisco liay ; for one of the chief objects of the voyage was to find a harl)or of
refuge and sujiply for vessels in the Manila trade, and yet upon his return Viseaino
recoiiiiiieiided San Diego and Monterey as being the only (mes at all suital)le for that
purpose; yet it will be remembered that in later years, before any aiisoliite record of
the discovery of this liay was made, a chart ii])oii which such a liay was indicated was
tliund l>y an Fnglishinaii on a captured ]\faiiila galh'dii. The pr(i1)nliilities are, however,

30 PACIFIC COAST.

that the bay Viscaino entered was Drake's bay, just uoi'th of the Golden Gate, the
place where Sir Francis Drake a fe-w years before had enacted his farce of taking pos-
sesion of the country in the name of the queen of England. A^iscaino resumed his
journey and on the twentieth of January reached a point on the coast opjjosite a large
white bluff, in latitude 42°, which he named Cape San Sebastian. The weather being
cold and stormy, his crew being nearly all disabled by the scurvy, and being unable to
discover any sign of the other vessel, Viscaino turned back at this point, and reached
Mexico in March. The fragata proceeded north when se^^arated from the ship off San
Francisco bay, and encountering another severe storm took refuge near Cape Mendocino.
Of the remainder of its explorations Torquemada says : " When the wind had became
less violfent they continued their journey close along the shore ; and, on the nineteenth
of January, the pilot, Antonio Flores, found that they were in the latitude of 43
degrees, where the land formed a cape or jDoint, which was named Cape Blanco. From
that point the coast begins to turn to the northwest ; and near it was discovered a rapid
and abundant river, with ash trees, willows, brambles, and other trees of Castile on its
banks, which they endeavored to enter, but could not from the force of the current.
Ensign Martin de Aguilar, the commander, and Antonio Flores, the pilot, seeing that
they had already reached a higher latitude than was ordered by the viceroy in his
instructions, that the Captaina [Viscaino's vessel] did not appear, and that the number
of sick was great, agreed to return to Acapulco."

The fragata reached Acapulco soon after the larger vessel, the ravages of the
scurvy having dejirived it of its commander, pilot and the greater portion of the crew
on the return voyage. This disease and its cause do not appear to have been well
understood at that time. The sufieriug it caused was most terrible, and it is remarkable
what fortitude the Spaniards displayed in continuing their voyages during the preva-
lence of such a horrible malady. In describing their sufferings, Torquemada says :
'' Nor is the least ease to be expected from change of place, as the slightest motion is
attended with such severe pains that they must be very fond of life who would not
willingly lay it down on the first appearance of so terrible a distemper. This virulent
humour makes such ravages in the body that it is entirely covered with ulcers, and the
poor patients are unable to bear the least pressure ; even the very clothes laid on them
deprive them of life. Thus they lie groaning and incapable of any relief For the
greatest assistance possible to be given them, if I may be allowed the expression, is not
to touch them, nor even the bed clothes. These effects, however melancholy, are not
the only ones produced by this pestilential humour. In many, the gums, both of the
upper and lower jaws, are jwessed both within and without to such a degree, that
the teeth cannot touch one another, and withal so loose and bare that they shake
with the least motion of the head, and some of the patients spit their teeth
out with their saliva. Thus they were unable to receive any food but liquid, as gruel,
broth, milk of almonds and the like. This gradually brought on so great a weakness
that they died while talking to their friends. =^' * =•' Some, by way of ease, made
loud complaints, others lamented their sins with the deepest contrition, some died talking,
some sleeping, some eating, some whilst sitting up in their beds."

The great river said to have been discovered by this expedition attracted much
attention at the time. The historian quoted above said of it : " It is supposed that

PACIFIC COAST. 31

tliis river is the one leading to a great city, which was discovered by the Dutch when
they were driven thither by storms, and. that it is the Strait of Anian, through which
tlie ship passed in sailing from the North sea to the South sea ; and that the city called
(^uivira is in those parts ; and that this is the region referred to in the account which
his majesty read, and which induced him to order this expedition." No great river
exists in latitude 43 degrees ; but it is well known that the navigators of that period
were seldom accurate in their observations, often varying as much as half a degree, and
it is quite possible the stream referred to may have been the Umpqua. A few years
later it was sujiposed that this stream was one end of a passage extending from the
(rulf of California to Cape Blanco, making of California a huge island, and this idea
was supported by the knowledge of the Colorado river, which had been explored many
miles to the northward. Venegas, writing in the seventeenth century, speaks of Califor-
nia as an island, and it was so designated on all maps until the end of the century.
After this was discovered to be a mistake, the river was laid down on some maps
as a large stream flowing from the interior of the continent — such a stream as the Col-
um1)ia — (»r as the western end of a passage leading from the Atlantic to the Pacific.
W'ry little was known of the width of the continent; and geographers sujiposed it was
but a short distance between the South sea and North sea. They had no idea that a
passage between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans would have been 4,000 miles in length.
Upon his return to Mexico Viscaino strongly urged the viceroy to establish supp ly
stations at San Diego and Monterey and to thus take possession of a country which he
was satisfied, from what he learned by careful inquiry among the natives he encountered
along the coast, was extremely fertile and rich in the precious metals; but the viceroy
had too nuich consideration for his personal interests, since the expense of such an under-
taking would have fallen solely upon himself, and neglected to utilize the informa tion
thus obtained. Viscaino, disgusted with the viceroy's inactivity, departed for Spain to
present his views at court; and after long delay and persistent imj^ortuning secured a
royal mandate to the viceroy, commanding him to establish a supply station for the
India trade at JNIonterey. This order was issued in 1606, and with it Viscaino hastened
to Mexico; but before the final preparations were completed he was taken sick and died,^
and the colonizing enterprise was abandoned. With no enthusiastic explorer to arouse
him to action and with no hostile fleets in the Pacific to annoy him, the Spanish man-
nrch apparently thought no more of the Pacific coast or the northwest passage, and a
few years later there was enough to occupy his attention at home. He ordered no more
voyages of exploration, and the viceroys were careful to undertake none upon their own
responsibility, nor any other enterprise unless the immediate prospective ])rofits were
great. For a hundred and >iixty years Spain made no ftirther effort to extend her ex-
ploi-ations of the coast, nor did she even attempt the establishment of colonies at San
Diego or Monterey, either for the purpose of taking possession of the country or forming
icfugc and supply stations for vessels returning from India. With the exception of the
annual galleon which reached the coast on its return voyage in the latitude of Cajw
Mrndoeind, no Spanisli vessel visited dui' shares for a century and a half Xot even
the mythical sti'aits, the fabulous city of (^)uiviia, the untold riches and many wonderful
objects supposed to exist in this vast unknown territory, were potent to nrouse Spain
from her lethainv. She made a few leeble elforts to i)roteet her i-onunei'i'e at times

32 PACIFIC COAST.

during this period when attacked l)y roving privateers, but her attempts at colonization
in Lower California, which will be spoken of later on, met with little success. There
seemed to be no new Cortes, Pizarro, De Leon, Balboa or De Soto. The spirit of adven-
ture was dead. Spain had passed her zenith and was rapidly on the decline. Wars
with the Netherlands, France and Portugal were most disastrous. Power, wealth and
territory rapidly decreased, and in a century she declined from the foremost position in
the world to that of a second rate power, and has never been able to regain her lost
ground. With such disasters crowding upon her in the Old World, her apathy in the
New was but a natural result.

Though Spain had ceased her voyages of exploration, such was not the case with
her i^owerful European neighbors, who were indefotigable in their efforts to explore and
colonize the Atlantic coast of America. The English, French and Dutch planted col-
onies on the coast, while their hardy navigators unremittingly explored its bays, rivers,
straits and sounds. Uppermost in the minds of all was the northwest passage. The
stories of its discovery which have already been related, and many others unworthy of
repetition, kept the Straits of Anian constantly in the public mind. In 1608 Henry
Hudson passed into and to a certain extent explored the bay upon which lie bestowed
his name ; yet he was but following the route pursued by Cortereal more than a century
before, whose theory that it connected with the Indian ocean had given rise to this uni-
versal belief in the mythical straits. In 1616 William Baffin penetrated into the bay
that bears his name, lying between America and Greenland, and entered a passage ex-
tending westward near the 74th parallel, but was unable to proceed because of the vast
quantities of ice. This voyage and others made into the extreme north, proved con-
clusively that no open passage could be possible in the 75th degree of latitude, where
Maldonado had located his tortuous channel leading from the Atlantic to the North
sea, and geographers became convinced that if such a passage and sea existed they were
the straits and bay explored and named by Hudson. The belief was natural, then, that
if found at all, the Straits of Anian should be looked for in some of the many unexplored
arms of Hudson's bay. For a time, however, after BaflBn's voyage, England was so
engrossed in her own troubles that neither Koyalists nor Commoners had time or inclina-
tion to prosecute foreign explorations.

The expeditions of the Dutch were chiefly to the southward, and in 1616 Lemaire
and Van Schouten made a most important discovery. It was that in passing from the
Atlantic to the Pacific, it was unnecessary to tempt the dangers of JNIagellan's straits, l)ut
that to the south of these there existed an open sea. Though the passage of Cape Horn,
named by them in honor of the city in Holland from which they came, was still a tem-
jjestuous one, it served to remove the fear all seaman entertained of undertaking to cross
from one ocean to the other through the narrow and rocky channel above Terra del
Fuego. This discovery was nearly as disastrous to Spanish commerce in the Pacific as
that of the much feared one from the North sea could possibly have been; for there now
existed no obstacle to prevent hostile vessels from entering or leaving the Pacific at will,
since the open sea was too large to be guarded even had Spain the necessary vessels of
war for such a purpose.

Spain was now involved in European wars, and to the disasters that were showered
xipon her head at home were added others in America. English, French and Dutch

PACIFIC COAST. 33

1 iiiceaneers, and especially the latter during the war fur independence by the Xether-
Idiuh, ravaged the Spanish settlements on the Pacific coast. Dutch privateers fi-e-
quented the Gulf of California, from which they preyed upon the Spani.<h commerce
and enriched themselves with Ciiptured booty. By their \-ictims they were known as
Pichilingues, because the bay of Pichilingue, on the western side of the gulf, was made
their chief point of rendezvous.

Spain made a few feeble and spasmodic effi:)rt.s to dislodge these piratical pests and
protect her plundered commerce, by sending out expeditions against them and bv
attempting to plant a colony on Lower California as a base of defensive operations. In
1631, 1644, 1664, 1667 and 1668 such efforts were made; but they were wholly fnutless,
and in no instance were the enterprises conducted with the %-igor and courage displayed
l>y the Spanish adventurei-s of a century before. A final effort wjis made in 1683 bv
Don Isdro de Otondo, who headed an expedition of soldiers, settlers and Jesuit priests
whom he established at various points, making La Paz the headquarters and chief
settlement and building there a chapel for worship and to aid in the conversion of the
natives. Father Kino was in charge of the religious part of the enterprise, and set
about learning the Indian language, and soon translated into their tongue the creeds of
the Catholic Church. The effort lasted about three years, during which time they were
visited with an eighteen mouths' drought, and before they had recovered from the blow,
received orders to put to sea, and bring into Acapulco safely the Spanish galleon, then
in danger of capture by Dutch privateers Iving in wait for her. This was successfully
accomplished, the treasure-ship was conveyed safely in, but the act resulted in the
al)andoninent of the colony; and a council of chief authorities in Mexico soon after
decided that the reduction of California by such means was imjiracti cable.

After Charles II. came to the throne of England, from which his father had Ijeeu
driven by the austere Cromwell, attention was again turned by that nation to explorations
for the northwest passage. The belief that in Hudson's bay would be found the en-
trance to the mythical .straits, led to the organization of the Hudson's Bay Company, to
which the king granted, in 166U, the whole region whose waters flow into that great
inland sea. The objects of " The company of adventurers of England trading into
Hudson's Bay," as expressed in the chartei-. were those of trade and the iliscovery of a
pa.ssage leading into the Pacific ocean. It was not long, however, before the company
learned that its franchise for trading jiurposes was an exceedingly valuable one, and that
the discovery of a pa.ssage through its dominions, which would of necessity invoke
competition from other organizations, was highly undesirable. From that time it not
only made no effort to discover the pa.ssage, Init discouraged all such expeilitions, even
keeping as secret as possible all geographical knowledge act]uiretl by its agents, which
policy obtains even to the present day, and which has kept as a ftir-bearing wilderness
the whole northern half of the North American continent.

CHAPTER V.

RUSSIA ENTERS THE PACIFIC.

Russia a New Factor in the Contest of Nations Plans of Peter the Great- -Behring's First Voyage Proves that
Asia and America are Distinct Continents— Voyage of the St. Paul -Behring Reaches the American Coast and
Expires on the Return Voyage— Terrible Suffering of the Crew -Beginning of the Pacific Fur Trade— Result
of Russian Explorations.

Though France confined her attention to inland explorations from her Canadian
colonies, England to fo.^^tering her colonies in America and exploring the north Atlantic
coast, and Holland to the founding of New Amsterdam and the plundering of the Span-
ish commerce and settlements in the south Pacific ; yet the North Pacific coast was not
wholly neglected during the first half of the eighteenth century. A new and almost
unex])0('ted factdi' made itself felt in the Pacific, and this was the powerful and autocratic
monaicli oi' itii->ia. I'ctii' the Great had redeemed Kussia from a state of almost utter
barbarity ami set it on the highway to civilization and national power. In the arts of
war and jDeace he had ])atiently instructed his j)eople, had cemented their national union,
had awakened a national pride and love of power within their bosoms, had extended his
domain and increased tiie number of his .subjects, and had made of a people formerly
scarcely thought of when the affairs of Europe were discus.sed, one of the most influ-
ential nations of the world. It was his constant aim and the legacy he left to his
successors, to extend the ^^ower of Russia on all sides, to build u]) the nation and make
it the foremost on the globe, and the czars have never relaxed their efforts to accomiilish
this mighty purpose. Gradually the dominion of the czar was pushed eastward until
his authority extended across the whole of Siberia to the Pacific at the peninsula of
Kamtchatka. The rich furs of that region became a source of revenue to the govern-
ment which Peter Avas desirous of increasing. He wanted to extend his power still
further east to the American settlements of the English, Spanish and French, though
bow far that was neither he nor anyone else had the least conception. To this de.sire
is due the discovery and exploration of the northern Pacific coasts of both Asia and
America. Peter commanded vessels to be built at Kamtchatka, and at Archangel on
the Wliite sea, that they might endeavor, the one in the Aictic and the other in the
Pacific, to find the long-sought northwest passage, or as they viewed it a northaid
])a.ssage. It was Peter's idea that vessels could sail from the Atlantic through the
Arctic ocean and enter the Pacific by the way of this passage, provided America did
not prove to be simply an eastern extension of Asia ; but Peter died before his project
was executed, and the scheme lay dormant for a few years.

In 1728 the great Catherine determined to carry out her husband's i)lans for
Pacific exploration, and agreeably to his former instructions she ordered an ex])editioii
to 1)0 prepared on the northeast coast of Kamtchatka, which she placed under the com-

PACIFIC COAST. 1X^4 369

35

niiiud of a Danisli navigator of skill and rourage, Vitas Beliring, who liad been desig-
nated Ijy Peter for that position l)ef()re his death. He sailed, on the the fourteenth of
July in a small vessel, and followed along the coast of Asia east and north until in
latitude 67° 18' he found it steadily trending westward, and was satisfied he was then
in the Arctic and following the northern coast to the west. Convinced that he had
fulfilled his instructions and demonstrated the feet that Asia and America were separate
continents, and being unprepared for a winter voyage, he I'etni'ned to Kamtehatka.
How far America lay to the eastward of Asia he knew not, for no land had been
observed in that direction, and he was totally ignorant of the fact that he had, l)0th in
going and returning, passed through the narrow channel separating the tw(j con-
tinents and been within a few miles of the American shove. This was made
evident a few years later, and Behring's name was bestowed upon the straits.
The elusive northwest passage had been found, though it took many years to
discover that as a means of communication between the Atlantic and Pacific it was
absolutely impracticable. That Behring's passage meets the requirements of the
Straits of Anian as depicted by Maldonado, both in latitude and general features, can-
not be denied, but to navigate the North sea as described by him and to j^ass through
the tortuous straits he locates in the 75th parallel into the Atlantic is utterly impos-
sible ; and, therefore, Behring's straits cannot be looked upon as lending any support
to the romance with which the unscrupulous Maldonado regaled the Council of the
Indies.

The next year Behring undertook to reach America by sailing directly eastward,
but adverse winds forced him into the Gulf of Okotsk, and he abandoned the under-
taking and proceeded to St. Petersburg. During the next few years many other
expeditions by laud and sea, one of which was driven upon the coast of Alaska in
1732, more clearly defined the Asiatic coast, and the nature of the passage between
it and America. The Empress Anne prepared for another expedition, but dying
before it was ready to sail, was succeeded by Elizabeth, who dispatched two vessels,
the <Sy. rctn- and St. Paul, from the Bay of Avatscha on the fourth of June. The
former was commanded by Behring and the latter by Alexei Tchirikof, who had been
liis lieutenant on the former voyage. The vessels were soon separated in a gale and
were not again luiited. Tchirikof returned on the eighth of October, having reached
a group of islands on the coast in latitude AG degrees, where sixteen of his men were
slaughtered Ijy the natives, and having loot twenty-one of his crew by scurvy, includ-
ing the distinguished French naturalist Delile de Crayere.

Of the discoveries made by Behring and the sufferings endured liy the crew of the
St. Peter, the only record is that of a journal kept by Steller, the German surgeon and
naturalist, which was first published in full in 170o, though its tenor and leading fea-
tures were known at a much earlier date. Its nautical and geographical details are
not as definite as could be desired. It seems that Behring sailed south-easterly as tar
us the 46th parallel without encountering land and then steered to the northeast as far
as the 6()th degree, when he discovered an immense snow-covered mountain which he
named 8t. Elias because it was first seen on the eighteenth of July, the day assigned to
that saint in the Russian calender. Entering a narrow passage between an island and
the mainland a strong current of discolored water was observed, indicating the pres-

3G PACIFIC COAST.

ence of a large river whose size proved the land through which it flowed to be of con-
tinental proportions. The conclusion was at once reached that America had been
found; but Behring, who was ill, refused to explore the coast to the southeast in the
direction of the Spanish possessions, and set out upon the return voyage. Delayed and
baffled by violent winds and the many islands of the Aleutian group, but slow pro-
gress was made. For two months they wandered or were driven about by furious
winds in the open sea to the south of the archipelago, famine and disease claiming
their victims almost daily. "The general distress and mortality," says the journal of
the surgeon, "increased so fast that not only the sick died, but those who j^retended to
be healthy when released from their posts fainted and fell down dead; of which the
scantiness of water, the want of biscuits and brandy, cold, wet, nakedness, vermin, and
terror, Avere not the least causes." On the fifth of November they landed upon an
island with the purpose of spending the winter there, and constructed huts from the
wreck of their vessel which was dashed by the waves upon the beach soon after the
landing was effected. Behring died on the eighth of December, and during the winter
thirty of the crew followed him. The survivors, having lived upon sea and land
animals killed on the island, constructed a small vessel from pieces of the wreck, and
succeeded in reaching the Bay of Avatscha the following August. The little island
where they had spent the winter and where were buried their commander and so many
of their comrades, they named Behring's Isle ; it lies about eighty miles from the Kamt-
chatkan coast, and consists of granite peaks thrust up from mid ocean, against which
the waves dash with ceaseless fury.

No disposition was manifested hj the rulers of Russia to prosecute further dis-
coveries for more than twenty years. Individual enterprise, however accomplished
something. The returning survivors of Behring's ill-fated expedition took with them
the skins of animals which had served them as food during that terrible winter, and
sold them at high prices. This led to short voyages eastward in quest of furs, the
beginning of that enormous fur trade in the Pacific which was for years a bone of con-
tention between nations and which led to the first settlement and occupation of Oregon.
It is thus described by Greenhow:

" The trade thus commenced was, for a time, carried on by individual adventurers,
each of whom was alternately a seaman, a hunter, and a merchant ; at length, how-
ever, some capitalists in Siberia employed their funds in the jsursuit, and expeditions
to the islands were, in consequence, made on a more extensive scale, and with greater
regularity and efficiency. Trading stations were established at particular points, where
the furs were collected by persons left for that object; and vessels were sent, at stated
periods, from the ports of Asiatic Russia, to carry the articles required for the use of
the agents and hunters, or for barter with the natives, and to bring away the skins
collected.

" The vessels employed in this commerce were, in all respects, wretched and inse-
cure, the jjlanks being merely attached together, without iron, by leathern thongs ; and^
as no instruments were used by the traders for determining latitudes and longitudes at
sea, their ideas of the relative positions of the places which they visited were vague
and incorrect. Their navigation was, indeed, performed in the most simple and un-
.scientific manner possible. A vessel sailing from the Bay of Avatscha, or from Cajie

i^

PACIFIC COAST. 37

Lopatka, the southern extremity of Kaniteliatka, couhl not have gone tar eastward,
without falling in with one of the Aleutian islands, which would serve as a mark for
her course to another ; and thus she might go on from point to point throughout the
whole chain. In like manner she would return to Asia, and if her course and rate of
sailing were observed with tolerable care, there could seldom be any uncertainty as to
whether she were north or south of the line of the islands. Many vessels were, never-
theless, annually lost, in consequence of this want of knowledge of the coasts, and
want of means to ascertain positions at sea ; and a large number of those engaged in
the trade, moreover, fell victims to cold, starvation and scurvy, and to the enmity of
the bold natives of the islands. Even as late as 1806, it was calculated that one-third
of these vessels were lost in each year. The history of the Russian trade and estab-
lishments on the north Pacific, is a series of details of dreadful disasters and suffer-
ings ; and, whatever opinion may be entertained as to the humanity of the adventurers,
or the morality of their proceedings, the courage and j)erseverance displayed by them,
in struggling against such appalling difficulties, must command universal admiration.

" The furs collected by these means, at Avatscha and Ochotsk, the principal fur-
trading points, were carried to Irkutsk, the capital of Eastern Siberia, whence some of
them were taken to Europe ; the greater portion were, however, sent to Kiakta, a small
town just within the Russian frontier, close to the Chinese town of Maimatchin, through
which |)laces all the commerce between these two empires passed, agreeably to a treaty
concluded at Kiakta in 1728. In return for the furs, which brought higher prices in
China than anywhere else, teas, tobacco, rice, porcelain, and silk and cotton goods, were
brought to Irkutsk, where all the most valuable of these articles were sent to Europe.
These transportations were effected by land, except in some i:)laces where the rivers
were used as the channel of conveyance, no commercial exportation having been made
from Eastern Russia by sea before 1779 ; and when the immense distances between
some of the points above mentioned are considered (Irkutsk to Pekin, 1,300 miles ; to
Bay of Avatscha, 3,450 miles; to St. Petersburg, 3,760 miles), it becomes evident that
none but objects of great value, in comparison with their bulk, at the place of their
consumption, could have been thus transported with profit to those engaged in the
trade, and that a large portion of the price paid by the consumer must have been ab-
sorbed by the expense of transportation. A skin was, in fact, worth at Kiakta three
times as much as it cost at Ochotsk."

Such was the crude beginning of that enormous trade in furs which in a few years
s})rang up in the Pacific, and for which English, American and Russian traders com-
])eted. China was then, and is to-day, the greatest consumer of furs, which were for
years taken to Pekin overland, as described above; but in 1771 a cargo of peltries
was taken direct to Canton under peculiar circumstances. In the month of May a
few Polish exiles, sent to that bleak and inhospitalile wilderness for political reasons?
succeeded in escaping to sea in a small vessel from a harl^or on the southwest coast of
Kamtchatka, being led by Count Maurice de Benyowsky, a Hungarian. They entered
the Pacific and after being driven hither and thither among the islands, stopping fre-
ijuently to procure furs, they finally arrived at Canton, the first vessel from the North
Pacific to reach any ports frequented liv ships of other nations, demonstrating the fact
tliat the icy waters idxiut Iviimtchatka and Alaska liclong to the snme great ocean as

38 PACIFIC COAST.

those of the South sea that hished the rocky hhiffs of Cape Horn, or hipped the sands
of the Philippines.

Other Russian voyages of exploration were made to the ea.stward of Kanitehatka
in 1766 and 1769 ; and in 1774 an official account of these voyages was published in
St. Petersburg, entitled " Description of the Newly Discovered Islands in the Sea
between Asia and America." This was accompanied by a map which embodied the
ideas of Pacific coast geograjihy which then prevailed. By it the American coast
north of California was made to run northwesterly to the 70th parallel. Between this
point and the coast of Asia was represented a broad open sea dotted with islands, many
of which bore the same names and were identical with the larger ones of the Atlantic
group, though by no means properly located. Alaska, or Aliaska, was represented as
a great island with Asia on one side and America on the other, separated from Asia by
the narrow channel of Behring's straits, and it was many years before it was known
that Alaska was a portion of the main land of America.

CHAPTER VI.

SPANISH MISSIONS AND SETTLEMENTS IN CALIFORNIA.

Spain Appeals to the Jesuits for Aid -The Society of Jesus Plan of Father Kino- The Mission of Our Lady
of Loretto Founded by Father Tierra— Attack upon the Mission— Method of Conducting- Missionary Work-
Expulsion of the Jesuits— The Pearl of Our Lady of Loretto— The Franciscans Invade Alta California— San
Diego Founded by Father Junipero Serra— Discovery of San Francisco Bay-The Mission at San Diego Saved
from Abandonment by the timely Arrival of Supplies— Founding of Missions at Monterey and San Antonia de
Padua— The Growth and Downfall of the Mission System.

For a century aud a half after Cortes planted the first colony on the peninsula of
California, the viceroys of Mexico, in an indissolute manner, had undertaken to carry
out the will of their sovereigns that colonies be established aud maintained on the
coast of California, but w^ithout success. When the Mexican authorities decided that
such an undertaking was impossible of accomplishment, the government appealed to
the powerful Society of Jesus to undertake the task, hoping thus to win by the cross
what could not be conquered with the sword ; but an offer of |40,000 annually from
the royal treasury to aid them in establishing missions was refused by the Jesuits, and
the crown abandoned the hope of accomplishing anything whatever.

At that time the Society of Jesus was the most wealthy and by reason of its
secrecy and perfect discipline and the intelligence, devotion and influence of its mem-
bers, the most powerful organization which has ever existed. It had its ramifications
in every land where was the symbol of the cross, and its faithful subjects hesitated not
to plunge into the unknown wildernesses of the New World to carry the light of Chris-
tianity to the "nations sitting in darkness" far beyond the confiues of civilization.

PACIFIC COAST. 3a

Their lives weighed as nothing against the glory of their Heavenly Master and the
extension of Christ's kingdom npon earth. It mattered not to what nation they be-
longed, for the French priests in Canada and Louisiana dipslayed the same zeal as did
the Spaniards in Mexico and California. They were imbued with the same spirit and
sought the same end — the extension of the kingdom of Jesus and the power of the
order which bore his name. Though the government subsidy was declined from
motives of policy, the conversion of these heathen nations was determined upon, to be
accomplished by the society with its own resources.

With the unsuccessful expedition of Admiral Otondo was a monk who had volun-
tarily abandoned a lucrative and honorable position to become an emissary of the cross.
While lying at the point of death he had made a vow to his patron Saint, Francis
Xavier, that if he should recover, he would devote the remaining years of his life to
following the noble example of his patron. He recovered, resigned his professorship,
and crossed the sea to Mexico, and eventually became a missionary and one of the
most zealous members of the Society of Jesus. He was a German by birth, and his
name in his native land was Kuhn, but the Spaniards have recorded it as Father
Eusebio Francisco Kino. He had become strongly impressed in his visit to the coun-
try with the feasibility of a plan by which the land might be taken possession of and
held. His object was not alone the conquest of a kingdom, but the conversion of its
inhabitants, and the saving of souls. His plan was to go into the country and teach
the Indians the principles of the Catholic faith, educate thera to support themselves by
tilling the soil, anil improvement through the experience of the advantages to be ob-
tained by industry; the end of all being to raise up a Catholic province for the Span-
ish crown, and people Paradise with the souls of converted heathen. The means to be
employed in accomplishing this, were the priests of the Society of Jesuits, protected by
a small garrison of soldiers and sustained by contributions from those friendly to the
enterprise. The mode of applying the means was, to first occupy some favorable place
in the country, where a storehouse and a church could be erected that would render
till' fathers" maintenance and life comparatively secure. This would give them an
opportunity to win the confidence of the Indians, by a patient, long-continued, uniform
system of affectionate intercourse and just dealing, and then use their appetites as the
means by which to convert their souls. These establishments were to be gradually
extended northward until Spain had control of the whole coast.

With no hope of reward, except beyond the grave, but with a prospect of defeat
and a probability of martyrdom, Father Kino started, on the twentieth of October,
1G8G, to travel over Mexico, and, by preaching, urge his views and hopes of the enter-
prise. He soon met on the way a congenial spirit. Father Juan Maria Salva Tierra ;
and then another, Father Juan Ugarte, added his great executive ability to the cause.
Their united efforts resulted in obtaining sufficient funds by subscrij)tion. Then they
procured a warrant from the king for the order of Jesuits to enter upon the conquest
of California at their own expense, for the benefit of the crown. The order was
given February -J, 1(')'J7, and it had rei^uired eleven years of constant urging to pro-
cure it. ( )ctober tenth, of the same year, Salva Tierra sailed from the coast of Mexico
to put in o[)eration Kino's long-cherished scheme of conquest. The expedition con-
.sisted of one small vessel and a long-l)oat, in which were provisions, tlie necessary

40 PACIFIC COAST.

ornaments and furniture for fitting up a rude church, and Father Tierra, accompanied
by six soldiers and three Indians. Father Tierra, afterwards visitadore general of the
missions of California, was born in Milan, of Spanish ancestry and noble parentage.
Having completed his education he joined the Society of Jesus and went to Mexico as
a missionary in 1675, where he had labored twenty-two years among the various
native tribes. He was robust in health, exceedingly handsome in person, talented,
firm and resolute, and filled to overflowing with that religious zeal which shrinks from
no form of martyrdom. His associate, Father Juan Ugarte, was equally zealous and
possessed of much skill in handling the stubborn and unreasoning natives.

On the nineteenth of October, 1697, they reached the point selected on the east
coast of the peninsula, and says Yenegas : " The provisions and animals were landed,
together with the baggage ; the Father, though the head of the expedition, being the
first to load his shoulders. The barracks for the little garrison were now built, and a
line of circumvallation thrown up. In the center a tent was pitched for a temporary
chapel ; before it was erected a crucifix, with a garland of flowers. * '•' *

The image of our Lady of Loretto, as patroness of the conquest, was brought in pro-
cession from the boat, and placed with proper solemnity. Immediately Father Tierra
initiated the plan of conversion. He called together the Indians, explained to them
the catechism, prayed over the rosary, and then distributed among them a half bushel
of boiled corn. The corn was a success, but the prayers and catechism were " bad
medicine." They wanted more corn and less prayers, and helped themselves from the
sacks. This was stopped by excluding them from the fort, and they were kindly
informed that corn would be forthcoming only as a reward for attendance and atten-
tion at devotions. This created immediate hostility, and the natives formed a con-
spiracv to murder the garrison and possess themselves of the corn without restrictions.
Happily the design was discovered and frustrated. A general league was then entered
into among several tribes, and a descent was made upon the fort by about five hundred
Indians. The priest rushed upon the fortifications and warned them to desist, begging
them to go away, telling them that they would be killed if they did not ; but his
solicitude for their safety was responded to by a number of arrows from the natives,
when he came down and the battle began in earnest. The assailants went down like
grass before the scythe, as the little garrison opened with their fire-arms in volleys
upon the unprotected mass, and they immediately beat a hasty retreat, and sent in one
of their number to beg for peace, who, says Yenegas : " With tears assured our men
that it was those of the neighboring rancheria under him who had first formed the plot,
and on account of the paucity of their numbers, had spirited up the other nations ;
adding, that those being irritated by the death of their companions were for revenging
them, but that both the one and the other sincerely repented of their attempt. A
little while after came the women with their children, mediating a peace, as is the cus-
tom of the country. They sat down Aveeping at the gate of the camp, with a thousand
promises of amendment, and offering to give up their children as hostages for the
performance. Father Salva Tierra heard them with his usual mildness, showing them
the wickedness of the procedure, and if their husbands would behave better, promised
them peace, an amnesty, and forgetfulness of all that was past ; he also distributed
among them several little presents, and to remove any mistrust they might have he

',v

PACIFIC COAST. 41

took one of the children in hostage, and thus they returned in high spirits to the
raneherias." The sokliers' guns had taught them respect, and the sacks of corn en-
ticed them back for the priests to teach them the Catholic faith.

The manner in which these indefatigable missionaries overcame the indolence,
viciousness and ignorance of the natives was practically the same as that pursued in
all the missions afterwards established, and is thus described by Venegas :

In the morning, after saying mass, at which he (Father Ugarte) obliged them to attend with
order and respect, he gave a breakfast of pozoli to those who were to work, set them about build-
ing the church and houses for themselves and his Indians, clearing ground for cultivation, making
trenches for convej^ance of water, holes for jjlautmg trees, or digging and preparing the ground
for sowing. In the building part. Father Ugarte was master, overseer, carpenter, bricklayer and
laborer. For the Indians, though animated by his example, could neither by gifts uor kind
speeches be j^revailed upon to shake oif their innate sloth, and were sure to slacken if they did
not see the father work harder than any of them; so he was the first in fetching stones, treading
the clay, mixing the sand, cutting, carrying and barking the timber; removing the earth and fixing
materials. He was equally laborious in the other tasks, sometimes felling the trees with his axe,
sometimes with his spade in his hand digging up the earth, sometimes with an iron crow splitting
rocks, sometimes disposing the water-trenches, sometimes leading the beasts and cattle, which he
had procured for his mission, to pasture and water; thus by his own example, teaching the several
kinds of labor. The Indians, whose narrow ideas and dullness could not at first enter into the
utility of these fatigues, which at the same time dej^rived them of their customary freedom of
roving among the forests, on a thousand occasions sufficiently tried his patience — coming late, not
caring to stir, running away, jeering him and sometimes even forming combinations, and threat-
ening death and destruction; all this was to be borne with unwearied patience, having no
other recourse than affability and kindness, sometimes intermixed with gravity to strike respect;
also taking care not to tire them, and suit himself to their weakness. In the evening the father
led them a second time in their devotions; in which the rosary was prayed over, and the catechism
explained; and the services was followed by the distribution of some provisions. At first they
were verj- troublesome all the time of the sermon, jesting and sneering at what was said. This
the father bore with for a while, and then proceeded to reprove them; but finding they were not
to be kept in order, he make a very dangerous experiment of what could be done by fear. Near
him stood an Indian in high rejjutation for strength, and who, presuming on his advantage, the
only quality esteemed by them, took upon himself to be more rude than the others. Father Ugarte,
who was a large man, and of uncommon strength, observing the Indian to be in the height of his
laughter, and making signs of mockery to the others, seized him by the hair and lifting him up
swung him to and fro; at this the rest ran away in the utmost terror. They soon returned, one
after another, and the father so far succeeded to intimidate them that they behaved more regularlj'
in the future.

Of the same priest and his labors in starting another mission he says :

He endeavored, by little presents and caresses, to gain the aftections of his Indians; not so
nmeh that they should assist him in the building as that they might take a liking to the catechism,
which he explained to them as well as he could, by the help of some Indians of Loretto, while he
was perfecting himself in their linguage. But his kindness was lost on the adults, who, from their
invincible sloth, could not be brought to help him in any one thing, though they partook of, and
used to be very urgent with him for pozoli and other eatables. He was now obliged to have
recourse to the assistance of the boys, who, being allured by the father with sweetmeats and pres-
ents, accompanied him wherever he would have them; and to habituate these to any work it was
necessary to make use of artifice. Sometimes he laid a wager with them who should soonest pluck
up the mesquites and small trees; sometimes he offered reward to those who took away most earth;
and it suffices to say that in forming the bricks he made himself a boy with boys, challenged them
to play with the earth, and dance upon the clay. The father used to take oft' his sandals and tread
it, in which he was followed by the boys skipping and dancing on the clay and the father with them.
The boys sang, and were highly delighted; the father also sang, and thus they coutiuued daucing

42 PACIFIC COAST.

and treading the clay in different parts till meal-time. This enabled him to erect his poor dwelling
and church, and at the dedication of which the other fathers assisted. He made use of several
such contrivances in order to learn their language; first teaching the boys several Spanish words,
that they might afterwards teach him their language. "When, by the heljj of these masters, tlie
interpreters of Loretto, and his own observation and discourse with the adults, he had attained a
sufficient knowledge of it, he began to catechise these poor gentiles, using a thousand endearing
ways, that they should come to the catechism. He likewise made use of his boys for carrying on
their instruction. Thus, with invincible patience and firmness under excessive labors, he went on
humanizing the savages who lived on the spot, those of the neighboring rancherias, and others,
whom he sought among woods, breaches and caverns; going about everywhere, that he at length
administered baptism to many adults, and brought this new settlement into some form.

This plan of subduing the natives and obtaining spiritual and temporal control
over them was adhered to for seventy years. The expense of this great undertaking
can be gathered from the record of the first eight years, during which |o8,000 were
expended in establishing six missions and $1, 225,000 in supporting the indolent
savages dependent upon them.

On the second of April, 1767, all members of the Society of Jesus in the Spanish
dominions were arrested and thrown into prison upon the order of Charles III., against
whose life they were charged with consjjiring. Nearly six thousand were subjected to
that decree, including the Jesuit missionaries in California and other dependencies of
Spain. The execution of the decree in California fell to the lot of Don Caspar Portala,
governor of the province, who assembled the j^ious Fathers at Loretto on Christmas
eve and imparted to them the sad news of which they had till then been entirely
ignorant. When the time came for them to take their final departure from the scene
of seventy years of labor and self-abnegation a most pathetic scene was enacted. With
loud cries and lamentations the peoj^le broke through the line of soldiers stationed to
hold them back, and rushed upon the Fathers to kiss their hands and bid them fare-
well. "Adieu, dear Indians; adieu, California; adieu, land of our adoj)tion ; fiat
■voluntas Dei" was the brief and eloquent farewell of those fifteen holy men, as they
turned their backs upon the scene of their long labors and became wanderers and out-
casts, under the ban of the sovereign whose power they had established where he had
sought in vain to plant it for a century and a half They left behind them the record
of having become the pioneers in the culture of the grape and in the making of wine
on this coast, having sent to Mexico their vintage as early as 1706. They were the
pioneer manufacturers, having taught the Indians the use of the loom in the manufac-
ture of cloth as early as 1707. They built, in 1719, the first vessel ever launched from
the soil of C^alifornia, calling it the Triuniph of the Cross. Two of their number suf-
fered martyrdom at the hands of the Indians, and the living were rewarded for those
years of toil, privation and self-sacrifice, by banishment from the land they had sub-
dued ; leaving, for their successors, sixteen flourishing missions, and thirty-six villages,
US testimonials of the justice and wisdom of their rule.

The historic village of Loretto, where was established the initial mission of Cali-
fornia, is situated on the margin of the gulf, in the center of St. Dyonissius cove. Some
of the buildings are now a mass of ruins, while others are fast going to decay, many
being destroyed by the great storm of 1827. The church built by the Jesuits in 1742
is still standing, and among the relics of its former greatness are eighty-six oil paint-
ings, some of them by Murillo, and though more than a century old still in a good

PACIFIC COAST. 43

State of preservation. It wa.s a former custoiii of the pearl divers to devote tiie product
of certain days to "Our Lady of Loretto," and on one occasion there fell to her lot a
magnificent pearl as large as a pigeon's egg and wonderfully pure and brilliant. This
the Fathers thought proper to present to the Queen of Spain, who in return sent to
our Lady of Loretto an elegant new gown ; but as this could not be worn by the virgin
in the spirit land and was not of the style of garment most in fashion at Loretto, it was
(if no practical utility, and there is reason to believe that her majesty had the better of
the transaction.

Upon the Brotherhood of St Francis the king bestowed the missions and accumu-
lated wealth of the Jesuits in California ; but soon after possession was taken by them
the Dominicans laid claim to a portion. The controversy ended in the surrender by
the Franciscans of all rights granted them in Lower California upon the condition that
they be granted full authority in Alta California to found missions and take possession
of the country in the name of the Catholic sovereign of Spain. They hoped thus to
become possessed of a land where legend and imagination had located the rich mines of
gold and silver from which had come the vast treasures of which Cortes had despoiled
the Aztecs ; and in thus gaining wealth for their order they w^ould also spread the story
of the cross and bring within the pale of the Holy Catholic Church thousands of souls
then groping in the darkness of heathenism.

Father Francis Junipero Serra, at the head of the Franciscan order in ^Mexico,
was a man cast in no common mould. He was educated from his youth to the church,
was possessed of great eloquence, enthusiasm and magnetic power, and had gained
reputation and experience in the missions of Mexico. Peculiarly fitted for the work
before him, he entered upon it with a zeal that admitted not of failure or defeat. It
was his jilan to establish missions at San Diego, Monterey and some intermediate point
, immediately, and extend them gradually as circumstances should dictate. In pursu-
ance of this programxne an expedition was dispatched in 1769 to settle and take
possession of California, with the purpose, as Joseph DeGalvez states it, " to establish
the Catholic religion among a numerous heathen people, submerged in the obscure
darkness of paganism ; to extend the dominion of the King, our Lord ; and to protect
the peninsula from the ambitious rulers of foreign nations." This was to be done by
the Franciscans, according to the royal decree, at their oivn expense, though the bene-
fits were to inure chiefly to the crown of Spain, whose dominion was to be largely
increased and a greater measure of protection afforded the American possessions and
commerce.

It was deemed advisable to divide the expedition, and send a portion of it by sea
in their three vessels, leaving the remainder to go from Mexico overland by way of
the most northerly of the old missions. Accordingly, on the ninth of January, 1709,
tlie ship San Carlos sailed from La Paz, followed on the fifteenth of February by the
San- Antonio. The last to sail was the San Joseph, on the sixteenth of June, and she
was never heard from afterwards. The vessels were all loaded with provisions, numer-
ous seeds, grain to sow, farming utensils, church ornaments, furniture and passengers,
their destination being the port of San Diego. The first to reach that })lace was the
San Antonio, which arrived on the eleventh of A2iril, after losing eight of her crew
l)v the scurvv. Twciitv davs hiter the San Carlos made her laboriou.< wav into port,

44 PxVCIFIC COAST.

with only the captain, the cook and one seaman left of her crew, the others having
fallen victims to that terrible scourge of the early navigators.

The overland party was also divided into two companies ; one, under command of
Fernanda Revera Moncada, was to assemble at the northern limit of the peninsula,
where was located the most northerly mission, and take two hundred head of black
cattle over the country to San Diego, the point where all were to meet in the new
land to be subdued. Revera set out on the twenty-fourth of March, and was the first
European to cross the southern deserts, guarding approaches from that direction to
the upper coast. He reached the point of general rendezvous on the fourteenth
of May, after having spent fifty-one days in the journey. The governor of Cali-
fornia, Gaspar de Portala, took command of the remaining part of the land
expedition, and started May fifteenth, from the same place on the frontier that had
been Revera's point of departure, He was accompanied by the projector of the en-
terprise, Father Junipero Serra himself, and arrived at San Diego on the first of July,
where this, the last company to reach the rendezvous, was received with great demon-
strations of joy by those who had arrived by sea and land many long weeks before.

The members of the several divisions, with the exception of those who died at
sea, were now all on the ground at San Diego, and Father Junipero was not a man to
waste time. In looking over his resources for accomplishing the work before him,
he found that he had, including converted Indians who had accompanied him, about
two hundred and fifty souls, and everything necessary for the founding of the three
missions, the cultivation of the soil, grazing the land and exploring the coast, except
sailors and provisions. So many of the former having died on the voyage, it was
deemed advisable for those who remained to sail on the San Antonio for San Bias, to
procure more seamen and supplies. They accordingly put to sea for that purpose on
the ninth of July, and nine of the crew died before the port was reached. The next
thing in order was to found a mission at San Diego, and it will be interesting to know
what was the ceremony which constituted the founding of a mission. Father Francis
Palou, the historian of the Franciscans, thus describes it : " They immediately set
about taking possession of the soil in the name of our Catholic monarch, and thus laid
the foundation of the mission. The sailors, muleteers and servants set about clearing
away a place, which was to serve as temporary church, hanging the bells (on the limb
of a tree, possibly)' and forming a grand cross. '' '■' '■^ The venerable
father president blessed the holy water, and with this the rite of the church and then
the holy cross ; which, being adorned as usual, was planted in front of the church.
Then its patron saint was named, and having chanted the first mass, the venerable
president pronounced a most fervent discourse on the coming of the Holy Spirit and
the establishment of the mission. The sacrifice of the mass being concluded, the
Veni Cre«/r;r was then sung; the want of an organ and other musical instruments
being supplied by the continued discharge of firearms during the ceremony, and the
want of incense, of which they had none, by the smoke of the muskets."

This ceremony was performed on the sixteenth day of July, 1769. Two days
prior to that Governor Portala had started northward with the greater portion of the
force to re-discover the port of Monterey. For three and one-half months he pursued
his slow, tortuous way up the coast, passing Monterey without recognizing it. On the

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PACIFIC COAST. 45

thirtieth of October they eanie upon a bay which Father Crespi; who accompanied the
expedition, says " they at once recognized" What caused them to recognize it? Had
they ever heard of it before ? This is the first unquestioned record of the discovery of
the San Francisco harbor. In all the annals of history there is no evidence of its
ever having been seen before, except that sailing chart previously mentioned. Yet the
exception is evidence strong as holy writ, that in 1740 the bay had been found but had
received no recorded name. Portala and his followers believed a miracle had been
performed, that the discovery was due to the haiid of Providence, and that St. Francis
had led them to the place. When they saw this land-locked bay in all its slumbering
grandeur, they remembered that, before leaving Mexico, Father Junipero had been
grieved because the vistado re general had not placed their jDatron saint upon the list
of names for the missions to be founded in the ne^v country, and when reminded of
the omission by the sorrowing j^riest, he had replied solemnly, as from matured reflec-
tion : " If St. Francis wants a mission, let him show you a good port, and we will put
one there." "A good port" had been found — one where the fleets of the world could
ride in safety, and they said " St. Francis has led us to his harbor," and they called it
" San Francisco Bay."

Portala returned to San Diego, arriving January '24, 1770, where he found a very
discouraging condition of affairs. The small band left at San Diego had passed
through perils and difficulties of which it is unnecessary to speak in detail ; but the
stubborn bravery and uniform kindness of the missionaries had -brought them safely
through. There now threatened a danger that unless averted would disastrously
terminate the expedition. Portala took an inventory of supplies and found there
remained only enough to last the expedition until March ; and he dicided that if none
arrived by sea before the twentieth of that month, to abandon the enterprise and
return to Mexico. The day came, and with it, in the offing, in plain view of all, a
vessel. Preparations had been completed for the abandonment, but it was postponed
because of the appearance of the outlying ship. The next day it was gone, and the
colony believed then that a miracle had been jDerformed, and their patron saint had
permitted the sight of the vessel that they might know that help was coming. In a
few days the San Antonio sailed into the harbor with abundant stores, and they learned
that the vision they had looked uj^on was the vessel herself; she having been forced
by adverse winds to put to sea again, after coming in sight of land.

Upon the arrival of the San Antonio, two other expeditious set out, in search of
Monterey harbor, one by sea and another by land, the latter in charge of Governor
Portala. The party by sea was accomjianied by the father president himsdf, who
writes of that voyage, and its results, as follows: "On the thirty-first day of May,
by the favor of (lod, after a rather painful voyage of a month and a half, this packet,
San Anf'niin, arrived and anchored in this horrible port of 3Iontcreij, which is unal-
tered in any degree from what it was when visited by the expedition of Don Sebastian
A'iscaino, in the year l(K>o." He goes on to state that he found the governor awaiting
him, having reached the place eight days earlier. He then describes the manner of
taking possession of the land for the ci'own on the third day of August. This cere-
mony was attended by salutes from the battery on board ship, and discliarges of
nuisketrv l)v the soldiers, until the Indians in the vicinitv were so thorouiihlv frioht-

46 PACIFIC COAST.

eiied at the noise as to cause a stampede among them for the interior, from whence
they were afterwards enticed with diffieuhy. This was soon followed by the founding
of the mission of San Antonio de Padua.

Governor Portala then returned to Mexico, bearing the welcome intelligence that
Monterey had been re-discovered, that a much finer bay had also been found farther
north which they had named after St. Francis, and that three missions had been
established in the new land. Upon receipt of the news, the excitement in Mexico was
intense. Guns were fired, bells were rung, congratulatory speeches were made, and
all New Spain was happy, because of the final success of the long struggle to gain a
footing north of the peninsula.

It is needless to follow in detail the record of the Franciscans in California, their
labors, privations and successs. A brief summary of their rise, growth and downfall
will be sufficient to enable the reader to understand all allusions to them in the subse-
quent pages.

By the same methods the Jesuits had practiced in Lower California, did the
Franciscans seek to establish their missions on a firmer footing, suffering frequently
from the hostility of the natives, but gradually overcoming all obstacles and creating
populous and prosperous missions and towns. The mission of San Diego was founded
July 16, 1769; San Carlos, at Monterey, August 3, 1770; San Antonio de Padua,
July 14, 1771 ; San Gabriel, near Los Angeles, September 8, 1771 ; San Luis Obispo,
in September, 1772. Father Serra then went to Mexico for reinforcements and sup-
plies, and returned the next spring by sea, having sent Captain Juan Bautista Anza
with some soldiers to open an overland route by which more rapid and certain commu-
nication could be maintained with the home country. In 1774 Captain Anza returned
to Mexico for more soldiers, priests and supplies, and after the arrival of these it was
determined to enlarge the field of operations to the northward. The 8an Carlos was
dispatched to see if the Bay of San Francisco could be entered from the ocean, and
in June, 1775, the little vessel sailed safely through the Golden Gate and cast anchor
where so many thousand vessels have since been securely sheltered. On the seven-
teenth of September, 1776, the presidio (fort) was established at San Francisco, and on
the tenth of October the misson of Dolores was founded, followed in quick succession by
those of San Juan Capistrano and Santa Clara.

From this time the missions grew rapidly in power and wealth, and pueblos
(towns) sprang up, occupied chiefly by the families of soldiers who had served their
terms in the array and preferred to remain in California. Gradually po23ulation in-
creased, until in 1802 Humboldt estimated it at 1,300, to which he added 15,562 con-
verted Indians, taking no account of the wild or unsubdued tribes, which we know
from other sources largely outnumbered those brought within the influence of the mis-
sions. By 1822, the year Mexico declared her independence of Spain, twenty-one
missions had been founded and were in a prosperous condition. Two years later
Mexico adopted a republican form of government, and from that time dates the down-
fall of the missionary system. The Franciscans had complete control of the land,
claiming it as trustees for the benefit of converted natives, and discouraged all at-
tempts at colonization as calculated to weaken their power and frustrate their designs.
When, therefore, in 1824, the Mexican congress passed a colonization act, giving the

PACIFIC COAST. 47

governor of California power to make grants of land to actnal settlers, it was considered
a direct and fatal blow at the mission monopoly. From this time the missions were a
leading element in Mexican politics, and they gradnally declined before the encroach-
ments of the civil power until, in 1845, the property which had survived the pillage
and decay of the previous ten years was sold at auction, and the missions were at an
end. A year later the inauguration of the Bear Flag war by Fremont was followed by
the conquest of the country from Mexico, and California, redeemed from anarchy
misrule and revolution, became a jjortion of the United States.

CHAPTER VII.

DISCOVERIES WESTWARD FROM THE ATLANTIC.

Foreign claims in America— Florida, Mexico, California, Alaska, Louisiana, Canada, and the English Colonic s—
Treaty of Ryswick— Treaty of Utrecht— Sale of Louisiana to Spain— Carver's Explorations on the Mississippi
—Oregon, the River of the West— Origin of the Name— Journey of Samuel Hearne to the Arctic Ocean-
England offers a Reward for the Discovery of a Northwest Passage.

To understand in their full significance the motives and acts of the various nations
contending for dominion in the Pacific, the status of their claims throughout America
must be kejit carefully in view. England had colonies along the Atlantic coast from
Maine to Carolina and had full possession of the vast region about Hudson's bay.
France held possession of Louisiana, extending from the mouth of the Mississippi in-
definitely northward and westward, and of the St. Lawrence and the great region lying
to the westward embraced under the general title of Canada , and by exploring to the
west along and beyond the great lakes and north along the Mississippi, had thus
united Canada and Louisiana and rendered the Alleghanies the extreme western limit
of England's Atlantic colonies. Spain had undis})uted pos.session of Central America.
Mexico, California and Florida ; while Russia claimed Alaska and the adjacent islands,
The boundary line between these various possessions was extremely uncertain and con-
tinued to be for years a fruitful source of trouble and a theme for diplomatic contro-
versy.

In 1(3U7 the treaty of Ryswick was concluded, which was intended to define, as
I'learly as the knowledge of American geograjjhy would permit, the boundaries of these
various possessions. Spanish Florida was then limited on the north by the Carolina
colonies, while its western limit was left exceedingly indefinite, confiieting severely
with the P^rench claim to Louisiana. North of Florida and west of the Alleghanies
France claimed the entire country, either as a portion of Loui.siana or Canada, includ-
ing Hudson's bay, the latter claim being based upon the explorations of Labrador by
Cortereal. At the treatv ot Utrecht in 1713, following a disastrous struggle with

48 PACIFIC COAST.

Great Britain, France relinquished her claim to Hudson's ba}', Newfoundland and
Nova Scotia. During the next quarter of a century the energetic Frenchmen estab-
lished a chain of forts and settlements from Quebec to New Orleans, taking absolute
and actual possession of the country and cutting off the westward extension of Florida
on the one hand and the northeastern limits of Mexico and California on the other.

Thus matters stood until the disastrous war between England and France involved
the American colonies in bloody strife and turned over the exposed settlements to the
tender mercies of the Indian tomahawk and scalping knife. Worsted in the strife-,
France, after her colonial star was stricken from the sky by the gallant Wolfe on the
Plains of Abraham, but before the final seal to her defeat was affixed by the treaty of
Paris, secretly conveyed to Spain her province of Louisiana, and thus robbed her
victorious enemy of one of the greatest fruits of her conquest. The terms of the
conveyance, made in 1762, defined the western and southern limit of Louisiana and
the eastern and northern boundary of Mexico and California, to follow the course of
the Sabine river from its mouth to latitude 32 degrees, thence north to the Red river,
and following that stream to longitude 23 degrees, thence north to the Arkansas and
up that river to latitude 42 degrees, which line it followed to the Pacific. It was thus
that even after the acquisition of Canada, England found her possessions bounded on
the west by the great " Father of Waters." This was the situation in America when
the Russians opened the Alaskan fiir trade and Spain perfected her claim to Cali-
fornia by planting there the missions of St. Francis.

It was now a century since the Hudson's Bay Company was chartered, and it had
not yet discovered the northwest passage, though that was the leading object stated in
the charter ; nor, indeed, had the company made any earnest effort so to do. The belief
still obtained that the Straits of Anian existed, or, at least, that some great river, such
a stream, possibly, as the Rio de los Reyes, could be found flowing into the Pacific,
which was navigable eastward to within a few miles of some harbor accessible to
vessels from the Atlantic. If either of these existed, they were naturally to be looked
for in the region dominated by the great fur monopoly. The discovery of such a
means of communication was .earnestly desired by the English crown, yet the com-
pany was sufficiently powerful to prevent or at least render fruitless all efforts to
explore its dominions. All explorations that gave any new geographical light were
conducted beyond the company's domain and contrary to its desires.

It has been shown how the headwaters of the Mississippi had been visited by
French missionaries and exjilorers, both from Canada and Louisiana, who had estab-
lished a fur trade with the natives of considerable value. Immediately after Canada
fell into the hands of the English, an expedition was made into that region by Captain
Jonathan Carver, a native of Connecticut, who had served with distinction in the war
against France so recently brought to a successful termination. . He left Boston in
1766, and traveling by the way of Detroit and Fort Michilimacinac, reached the
headwaters of the Mississippi. The object of his journey, as stated in his account,
was, " after gaining a knowledge of the manners, customs, languages, soil and natural
productions of the different nations that inhabit the back of the MississipjM, to ascer-
tain the breadth of the vast continent which extends from the Atlantic to the Pacific
ocean, in its broadest part, between the 43d and 46th degrees of north latitude. Had

PACIFIC COAST. 49

I been al)ie to accomiilisli this, I intended to have proposed to tlie government to
establish a post in some of those parts, abont tlie Straits of Anian, wliich, having been
(hscovered by Sir Francis Drake, of conrse belongs to the English. This I am con-
vinced, wonld greatly facilitate the discovery of a northwest passage, or commnnication
between Hndsou's bay and the Pacific ocean." His idea that the Straits of Anian, or
any other passage inland from the Pacific, had been discovered by Drake was an
exceedingly erroneons one.

Just how far west Carver penetrated is uncertain, and his claim of a residence of
five monlhs in that region is a doubtful one. since the accounts of the manners and cus-
toms of the natives given in his narrative (published twenty-five years later in London
at the suggestion of a number of gentlemen who hoped the proceeds of its sale would
be sufficient to relieve the author's necessities; he died in 1780, in penury), are but
translations into English of the writings of Hennepin, Lahontan, Charlevoix and
other French explorers. To him, however, must be credited the first use of the
name " Oregon," which is given in the following connection : '' From these natives,
together with my own observations, I have learned that the four most capital rivei's
on the continent of North America — viz., the St. Lawrence, the Mississippi, the River
Bourbon (Red River of the North), and the Oregon, or River of the West — have
their sources in the same neighborhood. The waters of the three former are within
thirty miles of each other ; [This is practically correct, and this point, somewhere in
Western Minnesota, is probably the limit of his westward journey.] the latter, how-
ever, is rather further west. This shows that these parts are the highest in North
America ; and it is an instance not to be paralleled in the other three quarters of the
world, that four rivers of such magnitude should take their rise together, and each,
after running separate courses, discharge their waters into different oceans, at the dis-
tance of two thousand miles from their sources, for in their passage from this spot to
the Bay of St. Lawrence, east, to the Bay of Mexico, south, to Hudson's Bay, north,
and to the bay at the Straits of Anian, west, each of these traverse upwards of two
tliousand miles."

It will be observed that Carver lays no claim to having visited even the head-
waters of the "Oregon, or River of the West," and the probability is that all he knew
of it was gathered from the same works of the French explorers which had supplied
the other leading features of his book, though, possibly, like them, he may have heard
sncli a stream spoken of by the Indians. In many of these French narratives to
which he had access, a belief is asserted in the existence of a large stream flowing
westward from the vicinity of the headwaters of the Mississippi into the Pacific,
founded upon information given by the natives ; and on many maps of the eighteenth
century such a stream was indicated, bearing variously the names " River of the
West," "River Thegayo" " Rio de los Reyes," and " River of Aguilar" (the one whose
mouth Aguilar reported having seen in latitude 43 degrees in the year 1608.) All
tliat was new in Carver's account was the name "Oregon," and of that he fails to give
us any idea of its meaning or origin. Many theories have been advanced, plausible
and even possible, but none of them susceptible of ]n'Oof, and the probabilities are that
the word is one of Carver's own invention. The fact that he stands sponsor foi- the
name of this great region, is all that entitles Carver and his plagiarisms to any notice

50 PACIFIC COAST.

in this volume Avhatever. The first definite account of the Eiver of the West was one
given by a Yazoo Indian to Lepagn Dupratz, a French traveler, many years before
Carver's journey. The Indian iisserted that he bad ascended the Missouri north-
westerly to its source, and that beyond this he encountered another great river flowing
towards the setting sun, down which he passed until his j)rogress was arrested by hos-
tilities existing between the tribes living along the stream. He participated in the
war, and in a certain battle his party captured a woman of a tribe living further west,
from whom he learned that the river entered a great water where ships had been seen
sailing and in them were men with beards and white faces. There is nothing improb-
able in this narrative, in the light of ascertained geographical facts, unless it be the
portion relating to ships ; even that is possible, or may, perhaps, be simply an embel-
lishment of the story by the Indian or Dupratz. Several maps published about fifteen
years prior to Carver's journey, on the authority of this narrative, had marked upon
them such a stream with the name " Great River of the West" attached to it. This
fully accounts for the valiant captain's knowledge of such a stream, though it clears
up none of the darkness surrouudiug the title " Oregon."

In 1771 the Hudson's Bay Company sent Samuel Hearne on a tour of explora-
tion of the regions lying to the westward of the bay, for the purpose of finding a rich
mine of copper which the Indians had frequently spoken of and whose name translated
into English, was The Far-off Metal Eiver. He was also instructed to determine
the question of a passage westward from Hudson's bay, in whose existence the directors
had now no faith Avhatever, and in consequence were anxious to make a showing of
great zeal in searching for it. Hearne discovered Great Slave lake and its connecting-
rivers and lakes, finally reaching the Coppermine river and following the stream to its
point of discharge into the Arctic ocean. This body of water he conceived and re-
ported to be a great inland sea of a character similar to Hudson's bay, between which
two bodies of water there was evidently no connecting passage. He also learned from
the natives that the land extended a great distance further west, beyond high moun-
tains. The result of his journey, since it tended to prove that no passage to the Pacific
from Hudson's bay could be possible, was quickly communicated to the British Admi-
ralty by the company, though the journal kept by Hearne was not published for the
benefit of the jiublic till twenty years later.

The Admiralty were now satisfied that a further search for a strait leading west-
ward from Hudson's bay would be futile; but still hoped that a navigable passage
could be found leading from Baffin's bay into the sea discovered by Hearne and still
another one from this new ocean into the Pacific. Parliament had in 1845 offered a
reward of £20,000 to anyone discovering a passage from Hudson's bav, which the
company had carefully rendered nugatory, and now Parliament, in 1776, again passed
an act ofiering a like reward to any English vessel entering and passing through any
strait, or in any direction, connecting the Atlantic and Pacific, north of latitude 52
degrees, which was about the southern limit of Hudson's bay. This led to a series of
voyages by English navigators in the Pacific ocean, stimulated especially by the
reports which about that time reached England of voyages and settlements made by
representatives of Spain. The era of positive discoveries in Oregon was coming on
apace.

CHAPTER VIII.

EXPLORATIONS BY LAND AND SEA.

Strue:e:le Between Enp;land and Spain for Dominion on the Pacific Coast Juan Perez Discovers Port San Lorenzo
or Nootka Sound Martinez Claims to Have Seen the Straits of Fuca Spanish Explorers Take Possession
of the Country at ihe Bay of Trinidad Fruitless Search for the Straits of Fuca Heceta Discovers the Mouth
of the Columbia and Names it San Roque Inlet Bodega takes Formal Possession on George III.'s Archipelago
and Searches for the Rio de los Reyes- He also takes Possession on Prince of Wales Island- Vain Search
for Aguilar's River on the Coast of Oregon Discovery of Bodega Bay Practical Result of these Voyages and
England's Solicitude Voyage of Captain James Cook- Discovery of Hawaiian Islands Cook at Nootka
Sound— He Passes Through Behring's Straits into the Arctic Ocean Death of Cook- Return of the Expedi-
tion - -Arteaga and Bodega Follow Cooks Route.

The proceedings of the Sjoanish nation which had aroused England to such un-
usual activity in exploring the northwest, were the colonization of California by the
Franciscans which has already been spoken of, and several voyages and efforts to take
possession of the coast still further to the north which were made soon afterwards. The
struggle between England and Spain for dominion in the unexplored portion of the
New World had begun in earnest, and was embittered by the chagrin of the latter at
the manner in which Louisiana had slipped from her clutch when France sold it to
Spain just as it was about to be snatched from her grasp.

The first of these voyages, and it must be remembered the first voyage of explora-
tion undertaken by Spain along the northern coast for one hundred and seventy-one
years, was that of Juan Perez, who was instructed to sail as far north as the 60th par-
allel, and to then explore the coast southward, landing at all convenient places to take
possession of the country in the name of the king of Spain. On the twenty-fifth of
January, 1774, Perez sailed from San Bias in the corvette Santiago, piloted by Estivan
Martinez, and stopped both at San Diego and Monterey, sailing from the latter port on
the sixteenth of June. Thirty-two days later he espied the first laud seen since leav-
ing Monterey, in latitude o4 degrees, probably the west coast of Queen Charlotte's
island. Simptoms of scurvy beginning to be observed among the crcAV, and being but
poorly supplied with the requisites for a long voyage, Perez decided not to attempt
further progress north in his little vessel, and so coasted along to the southward. He
proceeded about a hundred miles, encountering a number of natives in their canoes,
with whom he drove a profitable trade in furs, and was then driven to sea by a storm.
He again discovered land on the ninth of August, casting anchor at the entrance of a
deep bay in latitude 49 degrees and 30 minutes upon which, following the custom which
has plastered the map of the Pacific coast with "Sans" and " Santas," he bestowed,
the name Port San Lorenzo, because it was discovered upon the day specially de-
voted to that saint in the Roman calendar. It was beyond doubt the harbor on the
west coast of Vancouver island now known as King George's or Nootka sound. Hav-

5-2 PACIFIC COAST.

ing- enjoyed a profitable trade with the natives, who are represented as being of a much
lighter complexion than other native Americans, Perez weighed anchor and sailed
again to the southward. In latitude 47 degrees and 47 minutes a lofty, snow-crowned
peak was observed, which was christened Sierra de Santa Rosalia, being, probably,
the one subsequently named Mount Olympus by English explorers. On the twenty-
first of August Perez arrived off Cape Mendocino, whose exact latitude he then de-
termined, and a week later dropped anchor in the harbor of Monterey. This voyage
added but little to the geographical knowledge of the coast, since no thorough explora-
tions were made and land was observed only in a few places. In the journal of the
voyage nothing is said of the Straits of Juan de Fuca, and yet, many years later and
long after the .strait had been entered l)y the English and Puget sound explored, the
pilot of the Santiago, Martinez, asserted that he had observed a wide opening in the
land between latitudes 48 and 49 degrees, and that he had honored the point of land on
the south side of the entrance with his own name. Upon the strength of this loug-de-
laved assertion, Spanish geographers entered upon their charts as Cape Martinez the
point of land now universally known as Cape Flattery.

The return of Perez with the information that America extended at least as far
north as the latitude 54 degrees, determined the Mexican viceroy to dispatch another
expedition in quest of still further discoveries as far as the 65th parallel. The Santinyo,
commanded ])y Bruno Heceta and piloted by Perez, and the Sonora, a small schooner
under the command of Juan de Ayala and having Antonio ]\Ianrelle for a pilot, sailed
from San Bias March 15, 1775, being supplied with the latest chart of the Pacific, in
which the reports of the various voyages were woven together by the fertile imagination
of Bellin, a French geographer. They were accomjDanied as far as Monterey by the
Sau Carlos, to which vessel Ayala Avas transferred before reaching that port, and the
command of the Sonora devolved upon Lieutenant Juan Francisco de la Bodega y
Quadra.

Sailing from Monterey to the northward, the two vessels doubled Cape Mendocino
and anchored on the tenth of June in a roadstead, which was named Port Trinidad,
for the usual reason that the day was the one devoted to the Trinity on the calendar,
that fertile source of Spanish nomenclature. Nine days later the voyage up the coast
was resumed, though not until the Spaniards had landed and with proper solemnity
and religious ceremonies taken possession of the country in the name of their sovereign,
including the planting of a cross with appropriate inscriptions as a testimonial monu-
ment of their visit. They described the harbor as being safe, spacious and a valualile
one to commerce, and the contiguous country agreeable in climate and having a fruitful
soil ; and this discovery was considered by Spanish authorities to l^e an exceedingly
valuable one.

Having kept out to sea for three weeks, they again sighted land in latitude 48 de-
grees and 27 minutes, just south of the Straits of Fuca. Since the Greek pilot had
located his passage between latitudes 47 and 48 degrees, as wall be remembered, in
wliich locality it was indicated on their chart, the explorers naturally coasted to the
southward in searching for it, thus sailing directly away from its entrance. A careful
examination of the coast revealed no such passage, and, satisfied that it had no exis-
tence, they cast anchor near a small island off the coast in latitude 47 degrees and 20

i

PACIFIC COAST. 53

minutes. Here seven of the Sonnrax crew, who were sent to the mauihiiid to i)roeure
water in the (Mily boat the vessel carried, were killed by the natives ; and the island
was christened Isla de Dolores, oi- Island of Sorrows, lieing the same one afterwards
called Destruction Island by an English captain, because of a similar flite which
befel a jjortion of his crew.

Disheartened by this disaster and observing alarming symptoms of scurvy among
his crews, Heceta desired to return, but at the urgent solieitatiou of the other officers
reluctantly consented to continue the voyage northward. A few days later a severe
storm 2)arted the vessels, and Heceta then abandoned the enterprise and started to
return with the Santiago to Monterey. He soon observed land on the ocean
side of Vancouver island, in latitude 50 degrees, and passing by Port San Lorenzo
and the entrance to Juan de Fuca straits without; observing them, he again saw the
coast in the 48th parallel, south of which he once more searched for the passage he
had so carelessly overlooked. On the fifteenth of August, 1775, he came opposite an
opening in the land in latitude 46 degrees and 17 minutes, through which poured a
stream of water so forcibly as to prevent him from entering. Satisfied that he was at
the outlet to a great river, or, possibly, the Straits of Fuca, though too far south
for this according to his chart, Heceta waited a day with the hope of effecting an
entrance ; but in this he was doomed to disappointment, and abandoning the eftbrt he
continued his voyage to Monterey, carefully observing the intervening coast, of which
his journal contains extremely accurate descriptions. The Catholic calendar was
again brought into requisition to supply a name for this new discovery, and since the
fifteenth of August was the day of the Assumption, Heceta called it Ensenada de
Asuncion (Assumption inlet); the sixteenth being set apart to Saint Roc, he called
the northern promontory Cape San Roque, while to the low land on the south side
of the entrance he gave the name Cape Frondoso (Leafy cape). Beyond question
this was the first discovery of the mouth of the mighty Columbia, and Mexican charts,
published soon after the return of Heceta, had indicated upon them an entrance to
the land at that point, variously denominated Ensenada de Heceta, and Rio de
San Ro(iae.

In the meantime Bodega and ^laurelle were persevering in their attenq)t to
carry out the original plan of the expedition, and were still endeavoring to reach the
()5th parallel in the little Sonoru. On the sixteenth of August they suddenly
came in sight of land both to the north and east of them, being then, according to
their observations, north of latitude 56 degrees, and at a point which their chart told
them was 1:35 leagues distant from the American shore. This proved to l)e the large
island known as King George Ill's Archipelago, though supposed by the Span-
iards to be a portion of the main land. A large mountain rising from a jutting head-
land and draped in snow, was called by them San Jacinto, though it was a few years
later named Mount Edgecumb by Captain Cook. The Spaniards landed to take
formal possession of the country for the Spanish crown and to procure a supi)ly of fish
and watei, to both of which ])roceedings the natives fiercely objected, compelling the
intruders to pay lil)cially for the fish, and the water as well, and derisively tearing up
and destroying the ci'oss and other symbolic monuments the would-be po.ssessors of
theii- land had erected. The vovaiic northward was resumed, but upon icaehiiio; lati-

U PACIFIC COAST.

tude 58 degrees Bodega deemed it imi^nident to advance farther and turned again to the
southward. From that point to the 54th parallel the coast was closely scrutinized for
the Rio de los Reyes of Admiral Fonte, liut as the romancing admiral had located his
mythical river a degree farther south their search would have proven in vain even had
the stream an existence beyond its creator's fancy, and therefore their assertion that
no such river existed north of latitude 54 degrees was valueless to prove Fonte's great
water route from the Pacific to the Atlantic to be a myth. On the twenty-fourth of
August they again landed to take j)ossession of the country, this time at Port Bucareli,
named in honor of the viceroy under whose authority the expedition was dispatched, on
the west coast of Prince of Wales Island. From this place they casually observed the
coast at various j^oints until they reached the Oregon coast in latitude 45 degrees and
27 minutes, when they began a careful search for the great river Martin de Aguilar
claimed to have discovered in 1603. Though they noticed currents of water setting out
from the land in various places, nothing was observed indicating a stream of the magni-
tude described by Aguilar, and they became satisfied that none such existed in that
locality ; yet they observed a headland which was recognized as answering the descrip-
tion of Cape Blanco, being, no doubt, the one called later Cape Orford by Captain
Vancouver. On the third of October the Sonora entered a bay supposed to be that of
San Francisco, but wdiich proved to be a much smaller one a short distance north of
that great harbor, and was therefore named Bodega bay by the discoverer in his
own honor.

By the voyages of Perez, Heceta and Bodega, and especially the latter, which was
conducted under the most disadvantageous conditions, through stormy and unknown
seas, in a small vessel Avhich had lost its only boat, and with a crew afflicted with that
terrible scourge of the early mariners, the scurvy, Spain justly laid claim to the first
exploration of the Pacific coast from which even an approximately correct chart could
be made; especially was this true of our immediate coast, for j^rior to these explorations
the coast between Cape Mendocino and Mount San Jacinto, or Edgecumb, was so prac-
tically unknown that in regard to it the most utterly erroneous ideas prevailed.

Condensed reports of these voyages, containing the leading features, soon reached
England, together with the accounts of the progress Spain was making in her scheme
of colonizing California, and caused much anxiety to the government. With her
Florida and Louisiana possessions extending indefinitely westward, with her California
colonies already established and the possibility of her making additional settlements at
some or all of the favorable localities on the northern coast where her representatives
had already performed the ceremony of taking formal possession in the name of the
king, the prospect of Spain soon obtaining control of the whole Pacific of America
south of the 56th parallel, the limit to which Russian explorations formed a foundation
for a claim by the czar, was imminent. With the zeal which England would exercise
under the same circumstances, the claim of Spain would be perfected in ten years, and
England be confined in North America to Canada and the possessions of her fur mo-
nopoly around Hudson's bay. The prospect was far from pleasing, and nothing l)nt
the indolence of Spain saved England from entire exclusion from Pacific Xorth Amei-
ica. Yet for England to establish colonies in opposition to those of Spain was jiractically
impossible. She had no Mexico to form a base of o])eration and supplies, but could

PACIFIC COAST. 55

hold coinmiiiiication with them only by means of a long and hazardous voyage of eight
or ten months around Ci\pe Horn or by the way of the Cape of Good Hope.

Under this condition of affairs England looked upon the discovery of a northern
passage from ocean to ocean as absolutely necessary to further her interests on the Pa-
cific coast. It was this idea of the situation which led Parliament to renew the offered
reward spoken of at the close of the last chapter, and which stimulated English ex-
plorers into that great activity which resulted in revealing so much of our geography
during the next fifteen years, laid the foundation for the claim to Oregon which Great
Britain so strenuously asserted, and gave her title to the immense territory she now
possesses on the Pacific coast.

About this time Captain James Cook returned from his great voyage of explora-
tion in the South sea and Indian ocean, having established the fact that no habitable
land existed in the vicinity of the Antarctic circle and made a voyage so extensive and im-
portant that he was universally recognized as the leading exjilorer of the century. To
him England turned in her hour of anxiety. Here was the man above all others to
whom could be entrusted the search for that passage so vitally important to British
interests in the Pacific, with the assurance that whatever skill, diligence and the most
thorough acquaintance with the geographical knowledge and theories of the day could
accomplish would certainly be achieved. This task Cook at once undertook, and sailed
upon his new quest with high hopes of winning laurels greater than those which
already encircled his brow.

The instructions given to Cook by the Admiralty were very minute and particular.
He was directed to jiroceed by way of the Cape of Good Hope, New Zealand and
Otaheite and endeavor to reach the coast of New Albion in the latitude 45 degrees.
To the name New Albion the English government had tenaciously clung since the
time Hir Francis Drake so christened the C^alifornia coast and ceremoniously took
possession in the name of the queen. To England there was much in a simple name,
since her adherence to it showed her resolution to claim to the last all the benefit
which could possil)ly be derived from the voyage of that adventurous marauder ; and
this name was only changed for another when the basis upon which the English claim
to Oregon rested was also altered. Though resolved to abate not one whit of her dis-
covery rights, England was careful not to commit the least overt act of hostility against
any rival claimants whatever. Serious trouble had roninicnced with her Atlantic
colonies ; the battle of Bunker Hill had been fought and the evacuation of Boston
compelled ; the whole coast from Massachusetts to Georgia was in a state of armed rebel-
lion, encouraged by both France and Spain, who appeared upon the verge of offering-
substantial aid. The times were not ]ii'opitious for England to assert her rights
in the Pacific in a niaiincr bordering in the least upon arrogance. Under the circum-
stances an extiTHU'ly modest demeanor was considered exceedingly becoming, and Cook
was "strictly enjoined, on his way thither, not to touch upon any part of the Spanish
dominions on the western continent of America, unless driven to it by some unavoid-
able accident ; in which case he was to stay no longer than shoulil be absolutely neces-
sary, and to be very careful not to give any umbrage or offence to any of the inhal)i-
tants or subjects of his Catholic majesty. And if, in his farther progress northward,
he should find any subjects of any European prince or state, ujion any part of the

56 PACIFIC COASr.

coast which he might think proper to visit, he was not to (Usturli tlicni or give them
any just cause of offence, l.)Ut, on the contrary, to treat them with civility and friend-
ship." The last chai-ge referred especially to the Russian settlements in the extrenu'
north.

But little positive knowledge was possessed in England of the geography of the
coast north of Cape Mendocino. To be sure it was the reports of Spanish settlements
in California and of several important voyages of exploration recently made by repre-
sentatives of that nation, which had created such anxiety and infused such zeal into the
English Admiralty ; but the particulars of those voyages were not yet received. All
that was really known of the northwest coast was Avhat could be learned from the
records of Viscaino's voyage nearly two centuries before, from the indefinite and con-
tradictory accounts of Russian discoveries in Alaskan waters, and the recent report by
Samuel Hearne that the continent extended many miles westward from the Coppermine
river. Between Viscaino's most northern limit, latitude 45 degrees, and the extreme
southern point reached by Tchirikof in the 56th parallel, there was a vast stretch of
coast line absolutely unknown. Cook was consequently instructed to proceed along the
coast and, "with the consent of the natives, to take posse-;sion in the name of the King
of Great Britain of convenient stations in such countries as he might discover that had
not been already discovered or visited by any other European power, and to distribute
among the inhabitants such things as will remain as traces of his having been there ;
but, if he should find the countries so discovered to be uninhabited he was to take pos-
session of them for his sovereign, by setting uji jsroper marks and descrijitions, as first
discoverers and possessors." This was exactly what Heceta and Bodega had done for
Spain the year before, though of this fact England was ignorant. Cook was directed to
coast along to the 6oth parallel, before reaching which he was expected to find it
trending sharply towards then ortheast in the direction of the Coppermine river, the
Admiralty being of the opinion that the great North sea visited by Hearne was
identical with the Pacific. From that point he was to explore carefully " such rivers
or inlets as might appear to be of considerable extent and pointing towards Hudson's
or Baffin's bays," and endeavor to sail through all such passages, either in his vessels
or in snraller ones to be constructed on the spot from materials taken with him for that
especial purpose. In case he became satisfied from the configuration of the coast that
no such passage existed and that the Pacific ocean and North sea were not identical, he
was then to repair to the Russian settlements at Kamtchatka, and from that point ex-
plore the seas to the northward " in further search of a northeast or northwest passage
from the Pacific ocean into the Atlantic or the North sea."

To carry out these minute and exhaustive instructions, Cook sailed from Plymouth
July 12, 1776, in the Resohdion, the vessel he had just taken around the world, ac-
companied Ijy Capt. Cliarles Clerke in the Discovery. The crews and officers were
men selected carefully for this expedition, and the vessels were sujjplied with every
nautical and scientific instrument which could in any possibility be needed, as Avell as
the most accurate charts at the command of the government. After passing the Cajie
of Good Hope, Cook spent nearly a year making examinations about Van Dieman's
Land, New Zealand, and the Friendly and Society islands. On the eighteenth of Jan-
uary, 1778, he discovered the Hawaiian islands, that most imi)ortant station in the

i

PACIFIC COAST. 57

Pacitic, wliicli he called Sandwich islands in honor of the first lord of the Admiralty
under whose orders he was sailing. (Jii the .seventh of the following March he was
delighted with a glimpse of the Oregon coast, or New Albion, near the 44tli parallel,
in the vicinity of the Umpqua. Contrary winds forced him as far south as the mouth
of Rogue river, when, the wind becoming fair, he took a course almost due north and
did not again see huid until just above the 48th degree of latitude, when he descried a
bold headland which he christened Cape Flattery to show his appreciation of the flatter-
ing condition of his prospects.

It was now that Cook fell into the same error which had so sorely baffled and
defeated Heceta and Bodega two years before. Like them, having reached the very
southern edge of the Straits of Fuca, he turned away and searched for them to the south-
ward, because in Lock's nairative they had been located between latitudes 47 and 48
degrees. Finding the coast line unbroken. Cook pronounced the passage a myth, and
abandoning the search sailed northward, passing heedlessly by the straits for which he
had been so diligently looking. He soon dropped anchor in a safe and spacious harbor
in latitude 49^ degrees, which he called King George's sound, but later substituted
Nootka when he learned that such was its Indian title. This was, beyond doubt, the
Port Lorenzo entered by Perez in 1774, and like the Spaniard, Cook reports the
natives to be of a very light complexion and to possess ornaments of cojjper and
weapons of iron and brass. This, united with the fact that one of them had suspended
about his greasy neck two silver spoons of Spanish manufacture, and because they
manifested no surprise and but little curiosity about the ships, and seemed not to be
frightened at the report of guns, and were eager to barter furs for a valuable considera-
tion, especially metals of all kinds, led Cook to the opinion that they had held inter-
course with civilized nations in former times. Their supposed familiarity with
firearms was soon found to be erroneous, for "one day, upon endeavoring to ])rove to
us that arrows and spears would not jienetrate their war-dresses, a gentleman of our
company shot a musket-ball through one of them folded six times. At this they were
so much staggered, that their ignorance of fire-arms was plainly seen. This was after-
Avards confirmed when we used them to shoot birds, the manner of which confounded
them." This discovery and other facts elicited by a closer observation caused Cook to
change his opinion about their previous intercourse with white people. In speculating
on this subject he says that though "some account of a Spanish voyage to this coast
in 1774 or 1775 had reached England before I sailed, it was evident that iron was too
common here, was in too many hands, and the use of it too well known, for them to
have had the first knowledge of it so very lately, or, indeed, at any earlier period, by
an accidental s^upply from a sliij). Doul)tless, from the general use they make of this
metal, it might be supposed to come from some constant source, by way of trallic, and
that not of a very late date; for they are as dexterous in usjng their tools as the
longest practice can make them. The most probable way, therefore, by whicli we can
suppose that they get their iron, is by trading for it with other Indian tribes, who
either have innnediate communication with Euroi)ean settlements upon the continent,
or receive it, perhaps, through several intermediate nati(ms ; the same might be said of
the 'brass and copjier found amongst them." Tlie indifference of the natives to the
shins, in rci;ard to which tlicir lack of curiositv was noticeable and had been one of

58 PACIFIC COAST.

tlie causes wliicli at first led him to suppose they were fauiiliar with such objects, he
atti'ibuted "to their natural indolence of temper and want of curiosity." Cook's
ignorance of the vast extent of the American continent and the degree of civi-
lization attained by the various aboriginal nations occu^iying it, must be his excuse
for supposing that such a commodity as iron could have been transported from the
Atlantic coast to the Pacific, j^assing from hand to hand through numerous tiibes of
Indians, many of them engaged in unceasing and unrelenting warfare. That such
could not have been the case, even aside from these objections, we are well assured by
the fact that the inland tribes through whose hands the metal must have passed knew
nothing of iron or its uses, and employed flint and bones for knives, sjoear-heads and
arrow-tips. In the region then visited by the English for the first time exist vast
quantities of iron ore, and in the mountains of the mainland copper ledges abound,
and though no traces have as yet been observed of the ancient working of these mines,
it is more than probable that the iron and copjjer possessed by the natives of Vancouver
island, who were the most civilized and intelligent found on the Pacific coast, were
produced from the crude ore by their possessors themselves. This supposition is sup-
ported by the fact that the natives forged iron in an ingenious manner, making harpoons,
weapons and ornaments, thus showing how well they understood the nature of the
substance and demonstrating their ability to produce it fi'oni the native ore. The com-
paratively limited amount in their possession indicated that they only utilized surface
croppings, and this fully explains the absence of any signs of former mining opera-
tions on the ledges. When Captain Meares visited the same locality a few years later,
he was equally astonished at their familiarity with these metals. He tells us that the
Indians manufactured tools of the iron obtained from him in trading ; and that it was
seldom the\' could be prevailed upon to use European tools or utensils in prefei'euce to
their own, with the exception of the saw, the utility and labor-saving value of which
they at once recognized. They made a tool for the j)urpose of hollowing out large
trees, which answered the purpose better than any instrument possessed by the ship's
carpenter. For an anvil they employed a flat stone and a I'ound one did duty as a
sledge ; and with these implements they fashioned the red hot iron at will, attaching
to the tools or weapons when desired a wooden handle, fastened securely Avith cords of
sinew. What little brass they possessed may have been procured from the Spanish
vessels which had visited them a few years before. In this connection the legend re-
lated to Meares, explaining the origin of their knoAvledge of cojjper, will be interesting.
The fact that there existed a legend on the subject is sufficient evidence of the length
of time the use of copper had been familiar to them. Meares says : " On expressing
our wish to be informed by what means they became acquainted with copper, and why
it was such a peculiar object of their admiration, a son of Hannapa, one of the Xoot-
kan chiefs, a youth of uncommon sagacity, informed us of all he knew on the subject,
and we found, to our surj^rise, that his story involved a little sketch of their religion.
He first placed a certain number of sticks upon the ground, at small distances from
each other, to which he gave separate names. Thus, he called the first his father, the
next his grandfather ; he then took what remained and threw them all into confusion
together, as much as to say that they were the general heap of his ancestors, whom he
could not individually reckon. He then, pointing to this bundle, said, when they

PACIFIC COAST. 59

lived an old man entered the sound in a copper canoe, with copper paddles, and every-
thing else in his possession of the same metal ; that he paddled along the shore, on
which all the people were assembled to contemplate so strange a sight, and that, hav-
ing thrown one of his copper paddles on shore, he himself landed. The extraordinary
stranger then told the natives that he came from the sky, to which the boy pointed
with his hand ; that their country would one day be destroyed, when they would all
be killed, and rise again to live in the place from whence he came. Our young inter-
preter explained this circumstance of his narrative by lying down as if he were dead,
and then, rising up suddenly, he imitated the action as if he were soaring through the
air. He continued to inform us that the people killed the old man and took his canoe,
from which event they derived their fondness for copper, and he added that the images
in their houses were intended to represent the form, and perpetuate the mission, of
this supernatural person who came from the sky."

Cook's vessels lay in NooLka sound nearly a month, repairing the casualties of
the long voyage, laying in a supply of wood and water, and permitting the seamen to
recruit their imjjaired health. They were constantly surrounded by a fleet of canoes,
whose occupants came from many miles along the coast for the purpose of trading with
the strangers. They had for barter " skins of various animals, such as wolves, foxes,
bears, deer, raccoons, polecats, martins, and, in particular, of the sea-otters, which are
found at the islands east of Kamtchatka ;" and, he might have added, in great num-
bers about the Straits of Fuca. " Besides the skins in their native shape, they also
brought garments made of the bark of a tree or some plant like hemp ; weapons, such
as bows and arrows, and spears ; fish-hooks and instruments of various kinds ; wooden
visors of many monstrous figures ; a sort of woolen stuff or blanketing ; bags filled
with red ochre ; pieces of carved rock ; beads and several other little ornaments of
thin brass and iron, shaped like a horseshoe, which they hung at their noses ; and several
chisels, or pieces of iron fixed to handles. '^' '■'■ Their eagerness to possess iron and
brass, and, indeed, any kind of metal, was so great that few of them could resist the
temptation to steal it whenever an opportunity offered."

About the last of April Cook sailed out of Nootka sound and resumed his explor-
ations northward. His next object was to look for the Rio de los Reyes of Admiral
Fonte, but a violent wind drove him to sea and prevented him from viewing the coast
about the 53d parallel. " For my own part," he says, " I gave no credit to such vague
and improbable stories, that convey their own confutation along with them ; neverthe-
less, I was very desirous of keeping the American coast aboard, in order to clear uj)
this point beyond dispute." He next saw land near the 55th parallel on the first of
May, and soon after passed the beautiful mountain called San Jacinto by Bodega, but
upon which he bestowed the title Mount Edgecumb ; and a little later he observed and
named Mount Fairweather, on the mainland. Cook had now entered the region ex-
plored by the Russians, with whose voyages he was somewhat familiar, and consequently
it was no surprise to him, but an expected gratification, when his eyes rested upon a
giant,snow-raantledpeak which he at once recognized as the Mount St. Elias described
by Behring. This icy monarch is upwards of 17,000 feet in altitude, the highest and
grandest peak of the North American continent

60 PACIFIC COAST.

Mount f^t. Elias was seen on the fourth of ^lay, 1778 ; and from its base the shore
line was seen to trend sharply to the west ; which fact induced Cook to hegin at that
point his search for the Straits of Auian, hoping soon to find a passage which would
lead him eastward into Hudson's bay or Baffin's bay, or northward into the great
North sea spoken of by Maldonado and seen by Hearne. Russian maps of this
region, cojiies of which he possessed, showed the whole space between Kamlchatka and
Mount St. Elias to be an ocean thickly strewn with islands, the largest of which was
called Aliaska, so that he had good authority for his belief in a passage into the North
sea. He sailed westward, and then southwestward to the latitude 5Ai degrees, minutely
examining all the bays, inlets and islands encountered, especially Prince William's
sound and Cook's inlet, the latter of which he probably conceived to be the entrance
to a river since he named it Cook's river. Nowhere could he observe an oj^ening
through the white chain of niountains, and he became satisfied that the American
continent " extended much further to the west than, from the modern most reputable
charts, he had reason to expect," and that the Russians were erroneous in their idea
that the region west and northwest of Mount St. Elias was but a sea of islands. The
result was that he abandoned the hope of finding a passage into eitlier Hudson's or
Baffin's bay, and resolved to see how far west the continent extended and to sail into
the North sea through the passage discovered by Behring just fifty years before. He
therefore sailed southwesterly, and on the nineteenth of June fell in with a number of
islands which he recognized as the Schumagim group, and where he saw the first evi-
dences of the presence of Russians at any time in those waters, in the form of a piece
of paper in the possession of the natives, upon which was written something in a for-
eign language which he sujoposed to be Russian. He soon after passed the extremity
of the Alaskan peninsula and the islands which seemed an extension of it, and
doubling this turned again eastward, soon reaching the large island of Ounalaska,
which Russian accounts had frequently mentioned as an important station in their
fur trade.

At Ounalaska Cook remained five days, and on the second of July sailed north-
ward along the coast, searching faithfully for a passage eastward. On the ninth of
August he reached a point wdiich he correctly believed to be the utmost extremity of
the continent, and upon it he bestowed the name of Cape Prince of Wales. The va-
rious names and titles of that worthy prince appear to have been as liberally scattered
about by the loyal English explorers as were the saints of the Roman calendar by tlie
devout subjects of Spain. Cook crossed Behring's strait from this point, finding it
but fifty miles in width, and landed upon the coast of Asia. He explored the Asiatic
coast of the Arctic ocean northwestward to Cape North in latitude 68 degrees and 5Q
minutes, and the American coast northeastward as far as Icy Cape, in latitude 70 de-
grees and 29 minutes, and being prevented by ice from progressing further returned
to Ounalaska, where he fell in with some Russian traders, who soon convinced him
that they knew far less of the geography of the North Pacific than he did. He then
proceeded to the Sandwich islands to spend the winter, and was slain in an unfortunate
affray with the natives on the island of Hawaii on the sixteenth of February, 1770.

The death of this renowned explorer, though a sad blow to the enterprise, did not
terminate it altogether; yet the results accomplished thereafter \vere l)y no means as

I

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PACIFIC COAST. (Jl

great as they would have lieeii had ojierations Iteen directetl l)y tlie great executive
ability and geograpliieal knowledge pot^sessed by Cook. Captain Charles Clerke suc-
ceeded to the command, and in March, 1779, sailed from the Sandwich islands, with
the purpose of passing into the Arctic sea and thence, if possible, into the Atlantic.
He headed northward and on the twenty-ninth of April entered the harbor of Petro-
paulovski in the Bay of Avatscha, the chief military station of Russia in Kamtchatka,
where he was received with great courtesy by the officials of the czar. Clerke then
sailed into Behring's strait, but was prevented from advancing even as far as the year
before by the vast quantities of ice, having arrived too early in the season. Being in
ill health and discouraged by his want of success. Captain Clerke returned to Petro-
paulovski, and died near that port on the twenty-second of August. Lieutenant John
Gore succeeded to the command, but deeming the vessels in too battered a condition
to endure another season in that rigorous climate, he sailed at once for his native land
by the way of Canton, where he had learned, through the Russians, would be found a
good market for the furs he had on board.

The vessels arrived in Canton early in December, bearing the first cargo of fui-s
taken from America proper to China, and with the excejition of the cargo taken there
by Benyowsky and the Polish refugees in 1770, the lirst to be conveyed into the Celestial
Kingdom by sea. This was a very important circumstance, since it was one of the
greatest factors that led to the development of the American coast north of California,
The furs had been purchased from the natives at Nootka sound. Prince William's
sound and other points visited, the seamen exchanging for them the merest trifles in
their possession. Xo care was taken to buy only valuable kinds since they were not
purchased upon si)eculation ; nor was any thought taken of their preservation, many
of them being ruined as an article of merchandise by being used for beds and cloth-
ing. It was only when they reached Petroimulovski and saw how eager the Russians
were to purchase them and ship them overland to China that the officers realized
how valuable a cargo they posses.sed. They pursuaded the seamen to cling to their
furs until they arrived in Canton, where they assured them much better prices would
be realized. The outcome was that what was aboard the two vessels was sold for more
than 110,000, and the result so excited the cupidity of the crew, that, though their
voyage had already been extended over a space of three years and a half, they became
" possessed with a rage to return to the northern coasts, and, by another cargo of skins,
to make their fortunes, which was, at one time, not far short of mutiny." The insub-
ordinate tendencies of the crew were repressed, and the Resolution and Dincorenj
sailed homeward from Canton, passed around the Cape of Good Hope, and arrived in
England early in October, 1880, having been absent four years and three months,
during which time no tidings of them had been received at home, and having lost
their gallant commander in battle and his able associate by the hand of disease.

England was at that time engaged in war with both Spain and France, while the
patriotic struggle of her American colonies for independence was causing her to put
forth her utmost energy to ui)hold her authority in regions already under her domin-
ion ; she had neither time nor means to attemj)t anything more in foreign countries
until her present troubles were overcome, consequently the lords of adniiraltv withheld
from publication the official record of the voyage until after the conclusiuii i)f peace,

62 PACIFIC COAST.

aud it was not made public until during the winter of 1884-"). B}^ comparison of
voyages it will be seen that Cook saw no portion of America not previously visited by
the Spaniards, who had formally taken possession, or by Russian explorers ; but his
exjjlorations had been so careful, his observations so thorough and his records so
accurately kept, that he revolutionized the ideas of Pacific geography.

There remains yet to be recorded a voyage made by the Spaniards contempora-
neously with that of Cook, though each was conducted in ignorance of the other. The
discoveries of Heceta and Bodega were considered highly important by the authorities
of Spain, and they ordered another expedition to be fitted out to make a more thorough
examination of the coast, which was not ready for sea for three years. The Pi-'mcesa
and Favorita, the former under the command of Captain Ignacio Arteaga, leader of
the expedition, and the latter commanded by Bodega and Maurelle, sailed from San
Bias February 7, 1779, only nine days prior to the death of Cook on the island of
Hawaii. They visited only such places as had been seen before by Heceta and Bodega,
following closely the course pursued the previous year by Captain Cook. Mount St.
Elias having been reached and the coast line being observed to run steadily to the west,
they were lead, as had been Cook, to look carefully for the Straits of Anian, but, like
him, were disappointed. Arteaga was not gifted with the qualities that make a suc-
cessful pioneer, and becoming discouraged at his want of success and by the symptoms
of scurvy observed among the crew, he ordered both vessels to return to San Bias,
where they arrived late in November. The observations, records and charts made
during this voyage were very inaccurate and of but little value, and the expedition
was productive of no benefit to Sj^ain, nor did it reflect any glory upon the nation ;
yet the ofiicers were rewarded by promotion for their good conduct. Spain had, in the
meantime, become involved in war with England and was neither in the condition nor
mood to pursue further investigations north of her settlements in California until
peace was restored.

CHAPTER IX.

BEGINNING OF THE FUR TRADE ON THE PACIFIC COAST.

Cook's Return to England Produces great Results — Russian American Trading Company — Undertaking of John
Ledyard -Voyage of the French Explorer LaPeroiise The East India, South Sea. and King George's Sound
Companies Meares Spends a Horrible Winter in the Arctic Regions— Berkeley Discovers the Straits of Fuca
— Second Voyage of Captain Meares -He Explores the Straits of Fuca and Attempts to Enter the Columbia.

The lords of admiralty could pigeon-hole the log books of the Eemlutlun and
Dlscorery, but they could not so easily seal the lijis of their excited crews, whose tales
of the lands visited, wonderful objects and strange races of people seen, and, above all, of
the ease with which fortunes could be made, by buying furs on the American coast for
a song and trading them in China for valuable cargoes of silks, porcelain and tea,
aroused a universal interest in the Pacific, which only the existing state of hostilities in
Europe and America was potent to hold in check. The Russians, also, had learned
much through the contact of their traders with the English explorers, both on the
island of Ounalaska and at the port of Petropaulovski ; and, being unhampered by
wars, were the first to take advantage of the discoveries of Cook and i"eap from them
substantial results. An association called the Russian American Trading Company
was organized in 1781, and in 1783 an expedition of three vessels was sent to the
American coast to examine it and plant colonies on the islands and continent as far
east as Prince William's sound. The exj^edition was absent three years and success-
fully accomplished its mission. These settlements and the power of the Russian Amer-
ican Trading Company were gradually extended until through them Russia obtained
complete control of the Alaskan coast as far south as latitude 54 degrees and 40
minutes, and exerted great influence in the Pacific, even establishing in later years a
settlement in California, which will be referred to again in these pages.

Several unsuccessful efforts were made to open up a trade between the American
coast and Cliina, especially by John Ledyard, an American seaman who had been one
of the crew of Cook's vessel. He sought both in America and France to interest cajii-
talists, but was uusuccessful in his efforts to secure backing in his enterprise. He then
undertook to cross Russia and Siberia to Kamtehatka, sail thence to Nootka sound, and
then traverse the American continent to the Atlantic. In furtherance of this scheme
lie secured a passport from the empress of Russia, and had advanced as far as Irkutsk,
when he was arrested, conducted to the Polish frontier of Ru.ssia, and released with the
injunction not to again enter the em])ire. This action was probably instigated by the
Russian American Trailing Coni})any, which did not relish the idea of a foreigner be-
coming so familiar with a region which it proposed to monoj)olize foi' its own benefit.

King Louis XVL, of France, dispatched aii expedition under the ((iinnKiiid of a
most competent and scientific n;ivig;itni' mnneil LaPerouse, in 178'"), immediately after

64 PACIFIC COAST.

the publication of Cook's journal luul verified the tales of his seamen and infused into
the commercial world a spirit of adventnre in the Pacific. LaPerouse was instructed
to "explore the parts of the northwest coasts of America which had not been examined
by Cook, and of which the Russian accounts gave no idea, in order to obtain intbrma-
tion resjjecting the fur trade, and also to learn whether, in those unknown parts, some
river or internal sea might not be found communicating with Hudson's bay or Baffin's
bay." LaPerouse reached the coast in the vicinity of Mount Fairweather June 23,
1786, where he remained at anchor several weeks, and then sailed southward, examin-
ing the coast and discovering that many points formerly considered portions of the
mainland were, in reality, but parts of islands. Though the first to ascertain this fact
he received no credit for it, since his vessels were wrecked in the New Hebrides and his
journal was not published until 1797, several years after other explorers had discovered
and made known the same facts.

England's anxiety to further her interests in the Pacific led her to adopt a policy
which, so far as the American coast was concerned, had the eftect of hampering her
efforts to secure a foothold on the coast. Notwithstanding the fact that the Hudson's Bay
Company had been instrumental in checking the general jjrogress of the nation on the
Atlantic coast, and had headed off or rendered futile all explorations of its territory,
Great Britain seems not to have learned a lesson from experience and was ready to
repeat tlie experiment. To the great East India Company she had granted chartered
rights which have been so well improved that a vast territory, an enormous commerce,
millions of subjects, in fact a new empire, have been added to the British crown, and
the queen of England now subscribes herself empress of the Indies. To this com-
pany was granted the privilege of trading with the Asiatic coast and adjacent islands
of the Pacific to the complete exclusion of all other British subjects whatever. To a
new association called the South Sea Company a like exclusive privilege of all the
commerce of the American coast of the Pacific was given. Thus all independent
English traders were shut out from the Pacific entirely, and Great Britain was com-
pelled to rely upon the.se two companies for the advancement of her interests in this
quarter of the globe ; since no vessels but those of the East India Comjjany could
carry the English flag around the Cape of Good Hope and none but those of its rival
could enter the Pacific by the way of Cape Horn. But it was soon found that the
interests of these two companies were antagonistic and their granted j^rivileges con-
flicting, when applied to the practical demands of trade. The South Sea Comjiany
could load its ships with furs at Nootka and Prince William's sound, but it could not
dispose of them in China ; on the other hand its powerful rival which controlled the
Chinese market was debarred from sending its vessels to trade for furs on the American
coast.

The first successful voyage was that of James Hanua, an Englishman, who sailetl
from Macao in 1785, and jirocured a cargo of furs at Nootka sound, which he sold in
China for $20,000. He repeated the trip the following year, but encountered so much
opposition from other traders who were then on the coast, and found so poor a market
in China, which had been glutted with furs, that nothing was realized from the specu-
lation. In 1785 the King George's Sound Company was organized in]/Englaud and
procured special permits from the South Sea Company and the East India Company,

PACIFIC COAST. 65

wliifh enabled it to trade in the Pacific waters. The King George and Queen Charlotte
were dispatched to the AuiL'rican coast under the command of Captains Porthjck and
Dixon, and traded two years without paying expenses because of the competition and
overstocked market. Two other vessels were sent by the company, which arrived in
1787 just before Portlock and Dixon took their departure; but the new discoveries
made by all these traders were confined to ascertaining that the coast above the 49th
parallel was fringed by hundreds of large and small islands, and that it was only these
islands which had been visited by the earlier exjjlorers.

This led to the idea that the whole northwestern continent was iu fact but an
immense archipelago of islands, through which it would be possible to reach the
Atlantic. This was the opinion formed by Captain Meares in 1789, who assigned as
one of his reasons for holding that belief, that " the channels of this archipelago were
found to be wide and capacious, with near two hundred fathoms deep of water, and
huge promontories stretching out into the sea, where whales and sea-otters were seen
in incredible abundance. In some of these channels there are islands of ice, which
we may venture to say could never have formed on the western side of America, which
possesses a mild and moderate climate ; so that their existence cannot be reconciled to
any other idea, than that they received their formation in the eastern seas, and have
been drifted by the tides and currents through the passage for whose existence we are
contending." The intelligent mariner seems to have forgotten the ice encountered by
Cook in Behring's strait and the terrible winter he himself spent on the Alaskan coast.

Captain Meares was a lieutenant of the British navy, off duty and on half pay.
In 1787 the great East India Company fitted out two vessels to trade between Nootka
sound and China, assigning the NootJca to the command of Meares and the Sea- Otter
to Lieutenant Walter Tipping. This was the second venture of the company in this
direction, as two small vessels had been dispatched the year before, which had enjoyed
a reasonable measure of success.

The Sea- Otter is known to have reached Prince William's sound, but her voyage
from that port is hidden in mystery while her ultimate fate is unknown. It is prob-
able that she and her crew went to the bottom of the sea, for if wrecked upon the
coast and her crew murdered by the natives, it would seem almost impossible that no
trace of them should ever have been discovered. The Nootka, also, followed the course
of the Japan current, crossed the Aleutian group between Ounamak and Ounalaska
islands, and finally came to anchor in Prince William's sound, with the purpose of
spending the winter there and resuming the voyage in the spring. During October,
November and December their stay in the sound was quite endurable, but the horrors
of an Arctic winter, with which English seamen w^ere entirely unfamiliar, then began
to crowd upon them. Ice hemmed in the vessel, snow covered it in drifts, all fowl and
animal life deserted the sound, including the migratory natives who had been living
there when they arrived. The sickly sun peeped over the horizon's rim but a few
moments at noon, and then the almost perpetually-falling snow obscured it from view,
" tremendous mountains forbade almost a sight of the sky, and cast tlieir nncturnal
fihadows over the ship in the midst of <lay," scurvy, that horrible scourge of the sea,
began its ravages among the crew, and horrors were " heaped on horror's head." From
Jannarv to Mav twentv-threc of the men died and the remainder were rendered unfit

66 PACIFIC COAST.

to perform any labor whatever. In May the l)irds and animals returned, the ice dis-
appeared, the natives once more greeted their stricken visitors, the vessel was released
from its icy chains, and in June Meares sailed to the Sandwich islands and from there
to China, having achieved but the honor of being the first English navigator to
spend the winter on the Alajskan coast. The East India Company were satis-
fied with these two disastrous voyages, but not so Captain Meares, who began making
preparations for another visit to the American coast.

The entrance to the Straits of Fuca were seen for the first time since they were
entered by the old Greek pilot by Captain Berkeley, an Englishman, though in com-
mand of a ship belonging to the Austrian East India Company. In sailing south
from the coast of Vancouver island in his vessel the Imperial Eagle, Captain Berkeley
noticed a broad opening between latitudes 48 and 49 degrees and just north of Cape
Flattery, south of which Cook, Bodega and Heceta had made such careful search for
the reputed passage. Noting the discovery upon his chart but making no effort to
explore the oldening, Berkeley continued south along the coast and at the Isla de los
Dolores lost a boat's crew at the hands of Indi'ans almost at the same spot where Bo-
dega's men had been murdered ; and for this reason he called the unfortunate place
Destruction island.

The next voyage of importance was that of the second visit to our coast by Cap-
tain Meares. In China the Portuguese were given special privileges and exemptions,
and in order to rea]) the advantage of this two vessels were fitted out at the Portuguese
port of Macao, near Canton, having nominal captains of that nation and receiving
permission from the governor to carry the Portuguese flag. Their actual commanders
were Captain Meares of the ship Felice, and William Douglas of the brig Iphigenin,
though those gentlemen appear upon the papers simjjly in the capacity of supercar-
goes. Nor was this alone the object of the use of Portugal's flag, since by so doing
the act of Parliament excluding all British vessels from the Pacific except those of the
East India and South Sea companies could be evaded. Greenhow endeavors to prove
that these two vessels were actually the property of Juan Cavallo, the Portuguese
whose name ajipears as owner in the ship's papers, and that the Portuguese captains
were the bona fide commanders of the vessels; and he so far succeeds in his effort as
to raise a strong presumption that, if such was not the case, these Portuguese were at
least somethmg more than mere figureheads in the enterprise. The plan of the voy-
age was for the Felice to go to Nootka sound and coast up and down from that harbor
exploring the coast and trading with the natives ; the Iphigenia was to proceed at once
to Cook's inlet and trade southward to Nootka, where one of the vessels was to load
all the furs and return to Macao, the other to remain there or at the Sandwich islands
until spring.

In pursuance of this plan of operations the Felice sailed for Nootka sound in the
winter of 1787-8, and immediately upon her arrival the construction of a small
schooner was begun by her crew, to be used for trading along the coast. While this
work was progressing Meares made a short voyage southward ; but before going he
secured from Maquinna, the chief, the privilege of erecting a house for the abode and
protection of the working party left behind. The consideration for this favor was a
brace of pistols and the free gift of the house and its contents when he took his final

PACIFIC COAST. 67

departure. Tliis shows conrlusivel}' that tlie house was only for temporary occupancy,
yet Meares, afterwards, in view of subsecjuent events, hiid claim to having made a
permanent settlement in the name of the king of England ; though how he could have
done so while acting, even nominally, in the cajiaeity of supercargo of a Portuguese
vessel, he fails to explain.

Having built his house, and surrounded it wdth a rampart of earth surmounted
with a small cannon for the protection of its inmates, Meares sailed south, along the
coast in search of the passage which had been discovered the previous year by Berkeley.
On the twenty-ninth of June, 1788, in latitude 48 degrees and 39 minutes, he observed
a broad inlet, and in his narrative lays claim to its first discovery, by claiming that
" the fact of the coast along which we were now sailing had not been seen by Captain
Cook, and we know no other navigator, said to have been this way, except Maurelle,"
though in the introduction to the narrative he mentions the fact of Berkeley's discovery
the year before. He says: " From the masthead, it was observed to stretch to the
east by the north, and a clear and unbounded horizon was seen in this direction as far
as the eye could reach. The strongest curiosity impelled us to enter this strait, which
we shall call by the name of its original discoverer, John de Fuca." Duffin, mate of
the Felice, was sent up the strait with a boat's crew of thirteen men and provisions for
a month. They returned in a week, every one of them suffering from wounds received
in a conflict with the natives. The boat had proceeded only ten miles up the strait,
[Meares claimed thirty, but Duffin's statement places it at ten], and had been attacked
with great ferocity and bravery by the savages who seemed not to care for the destruc-
tion caused by the fire arms nor to be frightened by the noise they made. They used
their bows and arrows, clubs, stone bludgeons, spears and slings with great skill and
effect, so much so that had it not been for the protection afforded by the awning of the
boat few of the crew would have escaped with their lives.

Meares then sailed south in search of the Rio de San Roque of Heceta. On the
fifth of July he observed a headland wliich he called Cape Shoalwater and on ap-
proaching nearer the coast the next day saw beyond this a promontory which he con-
ceived to be one side of Heceta's inlet. He says: " After we had rounded the prom-
ontory-a large bay, as we had imagined, op)ened to our view, that boi'e a very promising-
appearance, and into it we steered with every encouraging expectation. The high land
that formed the boundaries of the bay was at a great distance, and a fiat, level country
occupied the intervening space ; the bay itself took rather a westerly direction. As
we steered in the water shoaled to nine, eight and seven fathoms, when breakers were
seen from the deck right ahead, and, from the masthead, they were observed to extend
across the bay ; we therefore hauled out, and directed .our course to the opposite shore,
to see if there was any channel or if we could discover any point. The name of Cape
Disappointment was given to the promontory (Cape Hancock), and the bay obtained
the title of Deception bay. '•' '•' •^- ■■' We can now with safety assert that there is
no such river as that of St. Roc exists, as laid down in the Spanish charts. To those
of Maurelle [ Bodega's pilot ] we made continual reference, but without deriving any
information or assistance from them. We now reached the opposite side of the bay,
where disappointment continued to accompany us , and, being almost certain that there
we .should ol)tain no jilace of shelter for the ship, we bore for a distant headland, kt'ep-

68 PACIFIC COAST.

ing our course within two miles of the shore." The distant headhuid he named Cape
Lookout, it being the one called Cajie Falcon by the Spaniards and now known as
Tillamook head.

Having now " traced every part of the coast which unfavorable weather had pre-
vented Captain Cook from approaching," Meares returned to Nootka sound, where he
was soon joined by the Iphigenia, which had been very successful in its traffic with
the northern natives. The little schooner was then launched, the first vessel con-
structed on the Northern Pacific coast, and the very appropriate title of Northwest
America was bestowed upon her. Leaving orders for the schooner and the Iphiyenin
to winter at Hawaii, Meares sailed in the Felice for China, taking with him all the
accumulated furs.

Before Meares quitted Nootka sound, two American vessels entered it, bearing the
happily-chosen names of Columbia and Washington, the former being a ship an dthe
latter a sloop. The commerce of the colonies had been entirely destroyed during the
long struggle for independence, but immediately after the treaty of Ghent the citizens
of the new republic began to make their presence felt in every commercial mart. The
seal and whale fishing around Cape Horn was resumed, and as early as 1784 an
American vessel entered the harbor of Canton, while in 1787 no less than five were
engaged in the trade with China. Being unencumbered with restrictions such as Eng-
land had imposed upon all British vessels except those of her chartered monopolies,
they could embark in the fur trade with every prospect of success, and it was as a ven-
ture in this direction that the Columbia and Washington were fitted out in Boston and
dispatched to the Pacific, with an ample supply of such goods and trinkets as were the
most highly prized by the Indians. John Kendrick was the commander of the Col-
umbia and leader of the expedition, while the Washington was under the command of
Robert Gray.

Soon after entering the Pacific around Cape Horn, in January, 1788, the two vessels
were separated by a severe gale and were not again united until the following October
in Nootka sound. The Washington kept her course northward, and in August i-eached
the Oregon coast near the 46th parallel, where she ran aground while attempting to
enter an opening in the land which was pi'obably the mouth of the Columbia. After
repelling an attack of the natives, during which the mate was wounded and one of the
men killed, the Washington succeeded in again floating into deep water. She then
went directly to Nootka sound, where were found the Felice, Iphigenia and Northwest
America, her appearance there being an unexpected surprise to Captain Meares and
his associates. A few days later the Columbia also entered the sound to join her con-
sort, having been compelled after the storm near Cape Horn to enter the harbor of
the Island of Juan Fernandez for repairs, where Captain Kendrick had been most
courteously treated by the commandant of the Spanish forces stationed there. Meares
soon sailed to China in the Felice, and the Iphigenia and Northwest America pro-
ceeded to the Sandwich islands to spend the winter, the two American vessels lying at
anchor in Nootka sound until the following spring.

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CHAPTER X.

CONFLICT OF AUTHORITY AT NOOTKA SOUND.

Anxiety of Spain lest her Claims in the Pacific be Overthrown -Voyag-e of Martinez and Haro— Alarming En-
croachments of the Russians- Spain Dispatches Martinez and Haro to Kootka Sound to Take Possession
—New Venture of Captain Meares High Handed Conduct of Martinez at Nootka Captains Colnett and
Hodson Sent to San Bias as Prisoners Gray Explores the Straits of Fuca- Release of Colnett Diplo-
matic Controversy Between England and Spain.

The uneasiness felt by England in 1770 when reports reached the kingdom that
Spain was diligently exploring and colonizing the Pacific coast of America, was now
experienced in even a greater degree by Spain herself, who saw vessels of foreign
nations, and especially tho.se of her dreaded rival, entering the Pacific from both the
east and the west. She had not receded in the least degree from the extreme position
taken by her in the sixteenth century, and not only claimed dominion over all the
Pacific coast of America, but a complete monopoly of its trade to the exclusion of the
vessels of all other nations whatever.

In pursuance of this policy Don Bias Gonzales, the commandant at Juan Fer-
nandez, was recalled and cashiered by the cajstain general of Chili for his hospitable
treatment of Captain Kendriek, and this action was endorsed by the viceroy of Peru.
The delinquent officer was informed that he should have enforced the royal ordinance
of 1692, which decreed that all foreign vessels of any nation, no matter on how friendly
terms they might be with Spain, should be seized whenever found in Pacific waters,
unless they could exhibit a license from the Spanish court. The authorities in all ports
were then specially instructed to seize all foreign vessels, since no nation had a right
to any territory in America which made a passage of Cape Horn necessary in
order to reach it ; and the Spanish viceroy even went so far as to dispatch a cruiser
from Callao in search of the Coluntbia, with instructions to capture her if possible.

The Spanish authorities now realized that something must be done to establish
settlements north of California, their utmost limit at that time being the mission at
San Francisco. Beyond that, though claiming exclusive authority and dominion, they
actually knew less of the geography of the coast than either the English or Russians.
An ex[)edition was accordingly fitted out in Mexico in 1788, to be sent on a voyage of
iiKjuiry, for the doul)le purpose of learning the extent of Russian settlements in the
north, and selecting suitable locations for a number of proposed Spanish colonies.
The fieet consisted of the Princesa, commanded by Estivan Martinez, former pilot of
Juan Perez, and the Snn Carlos under command of Lieutenant Gonzalo Haro.

The two consorts .sailed from San Bias March 8, 1788, and reached Prince Wil-
liam's sound on the twenty-fifth of May, where they lay nearly a month without
making any attempt at exploration. There was a marked and radical dilTerence

70 PACIFIC COAST.

between the English and Spanish methods of conchicting operations of this chai-acter ;
for Avhile the latter seemed, either from lack of energy or want of the true spirit of
the explorer, to be satisfied with an occasional visit to the coast here and there, making
a few almost valueless notes of what they saw, the English, on the contrary, seemed
imbued with enthusiasm, exploring the shore carefully, taking continual observations,
noting every peculiarity, and keeping a record of much geographical and scientific
value. One of these careful English voyages was worth to the world a dozen such
skimmings as the Spaniards indulged in.

About the end of June Haro sailed southwest with the San Carlos and fell in
with the Island of Kodiak, upon which was a Eussian trading post. From the offi-
cial in charge, a Greek named Delaref, he received minute information as to the
character, number and location of all Russian establishments in America. He
returned to Prince William's sound to join Martinez, who had been amusing himself
meanwhile by making a few cursory explorations, and the two then sailed for Oun-
alaska, where they remained nearly a month enjoying the hospitality of the Russian
traders. With the first signs of coming winter they bade adieu to Alaska and returned
to San Bias to report to the viceroy.

According to the statement given by them and forwarded to Madrid, there were
eight Russian settlements on the coast, all situated west of Prince William's sound,
while one was then being established in that locality ; and these were occupied by 252
subjects of the empress, chiefly natives of Siberia and Kamtchatka. It was also
rejiorted that information had been received of two vessels which had been dispatched
to Nootka sound to effect a settlement, and of two others then being constructed at
Ochotsk for a similar purpose. The court of Spain was much agitated by this infor-
mation. It revealed a state of affairs highly prejudicial to the interests of Spain on
our coast. Already Russia had made settlements such as gave her title to the Alaskan
regions and was developing alarming symptoms of a purpose to establish herself still
further to the southward. Though the presence of English and American traders
on the coast was annoying in the extreme, the conduct of Russia was positively alarm-
ing, and Spain realized that nothing but heroic remedies instantly applied would be
at all effective to ward off the impending danger.

A communication was at once forwai'ded to the empress of Russia, remonstrating
against the encroachments of her subjects upon the dominions of Spain, to which was
replied that Russian subjects in America were acting under instructions not to
invade the territory of other nations ; but as neither the remonstrance nor the reply
defined the limit claimed for their respective dominions, nothing definite was settled
by the correspondence between the two powers. While this piece of diplomacy was
being indulged in by the home government, the viceroy in Mexico was applying the
heroic remedy. Early in 1789 he dispatched Martinez and Haro in their two vessels
to take possession of Nootka sound, instructing them to treat all foreigners with cour-
tesy, but to maintain the authority of Spain and her right of dominion at all hazards.
Meanwhile other vessels were headed for Nootka sound. The IpJugenia and
JVorthwest America, having spent the winter at Hawaii, and still sailing under the
Portuguese flag and license, reaching the port in April in a most deplorable condition,
so much so that they had to procure supplies and means for continuing their trade

PACIFIC COAST. 71

■with the natives from the two American vessels still lying there. ^leares had upon
his return to China formed a trading- arrangement with the representatives of the King
George's Sound Company, and in the spring dispatched the Argonaut and Princess
Royal to Nootka, remaining himself in China to conduct the company's affairs there
in person. Since these vessels were provided with licences from both the East India
and the South Sea companies, the Portuguese flag was dispensed with, and they sailed
under the British colors.

On the sixth of May, 178U, the Princexa anchored at Xootka, finding there the
CoUmibia and Iphigenia, the other two being absent on a trading voyage along the
coast. Martinez at once notified Captains Douglas and Kendrick of his intention to
take possession in the name of the king of Spain, examined their papers, and then
landed and began the erection of a fort in a commanding position on a small island
in the bay. No objection was made to these proceedings and the utmost cordial rela-
tions existed for sometime between the representatives of the three great nations.
Douglas still pi-eserved the Portuguese character of the Iphigenia, displayed that flag
at her masthead, and even paid Martinez for supplies furnished by him in bills drawn
upon Juan Cavallo, the reputed Portuguese owner of the vessel, ignorant of the fact
that the Macao merchant had become bankrupt and that Meares had transferred the
whole expedition into English hands and discarded the Portuguese feature.

A week later, on the fourteenth of May, Captain Haro arrived in the San Carlos,
and the next day Captain Viana and Supercargo Douglas were invited by Martinez to
visit his ship. When the guests entered the cabin of the Princesa they were told to
consider themselves prisoners, while at the same time the brig was taken possession of
by the Spaniards. On the twenty-sixth of May the Iphigenia was released upon the
signing by her officers of a paper certifying that they had been kindly treated and not
interfered with by the Spaniards. The Iphigenia then sailed up the coast, procured a
valuable cargo of furs, and returned to China, where Douglas severed his connection
with the vessel. From this circumstance and the fact that she continued to sail under
the Portuguese flag it would seem evident that she was in reality a genuine Portuguese
vessel, and had not been included by Meares in his new arrangement with the King
( George's Sound Company. This being the case it is evident that upon her actions, or
those of her two consorts the previous year, no claim could be founded by England,
yet such was done and persistently adhered to, on the ground that the vessels were
actually British though nominally Portuguese in their character.

On the eighth of June, subsequent to the release and departure of the Ijjhii/cnia.
the little Xorthirest America sailed into port, carrying the Portuguese flag, and was im-
mediately seized by the Spanish commandant. A few days later the Princess Royal
arrived from Macao, with the British ensign displayed at her masthead. When
Martinez learned from Captain Hodson that Cavallo luid failed, he declared that he
would hokl the little schooner for what was due him on the bills drawn by Douglas,
and releasing the crew from custody and permitting them to place the greater (juantity
of their furs on board the Princess ^o/ya/, he dispatched the schooner on a trading-
voyage under the command of one the mates of the Columbia.

The Priwrxx Royal sailed from No!)tka on the second of July, and the same dav
the J /y/ry//c////, commanded by Captain Colnett, entered, though not till the captain was as-

72 PACIFIC COAST.

sured by Martinez that it was i^erfectlv safe for him to do so, his timidity being caused
by information imjmrted to him of the conduct of Martinez in relation to the Ip/iiffenia
and Northioest America. Having entered the bay and anchored between the Prinn-m and
San Carlos, Captain Cohiett arrayed himself in full uniform and boarded the Princesa in
accejjtance of an invitation from Martinez to pay him a visit and exhibit his papers.
He descended into the cabin and a most stormy interview ensued between him and the
Spanish commandant. Colnett informed Martinez that it was his jsurpose and inten-
tion to occupy Nootka sound in the name of King George of England, and to erect
suitable fortifications for its defense ; and was in turn notified that such action on his
part would not be tolerated, since Spain had already taken possession. The English
captain became angry and asserted his intention to carry out his purpose in the face of
all opposition, whereupon Martinez sent for a file of marines and made him a prisoner;
at the same time a detachment boarded the Argonaut and took possession of her in the
name of the king of Spain, making prisoners of the entire crew. A few days later the
Princess Royal appeared at the entrance to the sound, and was instantly boarded by
the Spaniards and brought into port as a prize. On the thirteenth of July Colnett,
with all his officers and the greater portion of the cajjtured crews, was placed on board
the Argonaut and sent as a prisoner to San Bias. The other ship was supplied with a
complement of officers and men from the Spanish vessels, and was employed for two
years in the service of Spain. The officers and crew of the Northioest America,
together with some of the seamen on board the other vessels, were sent to China in the
Columhia, the American captain receiving a portion of the furs captured with the
Princess Royal in payment of their passage.

During all these troubles the two American vessels were unmolested, their com-
manders mediating frequently between the contending parties, though generally to
little purpose. The Columbia remained continuously at Nootka, while her smaller
consort traded and explored up and down the coast and collected a valuable cargo of
furs. Captain Gray sailed in the Washington through the straits between Queen Char-
lotte island and the main land, and called the former Washington island, though the
name seems to have lacked adhesive properties. He also sailed up the Straits of Fuca
a distance of fifty miles, the Washington being the first vessel to actually enter and ex-
plore that great outlet of Puget sound. Early in the fall Captains Kendrick and
Gray exchanged vessels, the latter sailing in the Columbia for China with a large cargo
of furs and the passengers sent by Martinez, while Kendrick remained on the coast
with the Washington to prosecute the business of collecting peltry from the natives.
In September Martinez and Haro took their departure in obedience to instructions re-
ceived from the viceroy, and Nootka was left without a claimant.

The Argonaut with its load of English prisoners reached San Bias on the sixteenth
of August. The commandant at that port, who was Bodega y Quadra, the explorer,
treated Captain Colnett with great courtes}^ and soon afterwards sent him to Mexico,
where the merits of his case were inquired into officially by the viceroy. It was finally
decided that Martinez, though simply carrying out the letter of his instructions, had
acted somewhat injudiciously, and that the prisoners should be released^'and the cap-
tured vessels restored. Consequently Captain Colnett sailed in the Argonaut for
Nootka sound in the spring of 1790, and failing to find the Princess Royal set out in

i

•%)>

PACIFIC COAST. 73

search of her, and did not succeed in obtaining possession until a j^ear hiter at the
Sandwich islands.

The release of Colnett and the restoration of his damaged vessels was by no
means the end of the Nootka affair. England and Spain engaged in a diplomatic
controversy in regard to it, which seriously threatened to involve Europe in a general
war, and that dreadful result was only avoided by the mutual dislike of both nations
to precipitate such a bloody conflict. France, Spain and England had not yet recov-
ered from their recent struggle, and none of them were anxious to renew the contest.

The Columbia arrived in China with intelligence of the Nootka seizures late in
the fall of 1789, and Meares, arming himself with statements and depositions in regard
to the affair, hastened to England, to seek redress for his wrongs and losses. He
arrived in April and found negotiations already in progress. Spain had undertaken
to assert at home the same ideas of universal supremacy in the Pacific that had been
the sole cause of trouble at Nootka, and had sent a communication to the king of Eng-
land on the tenth of February, notifying him that certain of his subjects had been
infringing upon her exclusive rights on the American coast, that in consequence the
ship Argonaut had been seized as a prize and her crew imprisoned, and strongly pro-
testing against his majesty permitting any of his subjects to either make settlements or
engage in fishing or trade on the American coast of the Pacific, and demanding pun-
ishment of all such offenders. England's reply to this liaughty demand was charac-
teristic of that nation, which has always kept a protecting arm around its citizens in
every quarter of the globe. It was brief and to the point, notifying the court of
Madrid that since it was evident from the Spanish protest that English subjects had
been imprisoned and their property confiscated, proper satisfaction for the insult and
reparation of the injury must be made before the merits of the controversy would be
inquired into. The tone of the reply was so belligerent that Spain at once began to
prepare for war, but to avoid this if possible concluded to modify her demands, and
notified England that if his majesty would in future keep his subjects out of the Span-
ish dominions, she would let the matter drop where it was.

Soon after this Meares arrived in England with his version of the affair, which
placed it in entirely a new light. Two large fleets were ordered to be fitted for war,
and a statement of the affair together with the correspondence with Spain was submit-
ted to parliament, which voted ample supplies and endorsed the most vigorous meas-
ures for upholding the rights and maintaining the honor of England. A demand was
made upon Spain for satisfaction. Much controversy followed — messages flying back-
wards and forwards for three months, during which Europe was kept in a high state
of excitement. England made full preparations for a descent upon the Spanish set-
tlements in America, and assembled the greatest armament the nation had ever put
forth. She formed an alliance with Sweden and the Netherlands in anticipation of
the union of Spain and France against her, since it was a well-known fact that a fam-
ily compact for mutual aid existed between the members of the Bourbon familj- occu-
jtying the thrones of those two kingdoms. The king of Spain formally called upon
Louis XVI. of France, for the promised aid, but the nation was even then tottering on
the l)rink of that horrible abyss of revolution into which it soon plunged, and the
doomed monarch was powerless. The national assemldy investigated the treat\% sug-

7i PACIFIC COAST.

gested that a new and more definite one be made, and ordered an increase of the navy,
but offered Spain no encouragement that assistance would be given her. Englaiid's
northern allies were in no condition to render her material aid, her exchequer was
exhausted by her great preparations for war, serious trouble was brewing in the East
Indies, and the threatening aspect of affairs in France warned her that to form a pro-
tective alliance with Spain would be far wiser than to go to war. All these consider-
ations caused Great Britain to recede from her bellicose position and secretly seek the
mediation of France. After much negotiation the treaty of Nootka was signed
October 28, 1790, and the threatened war was averted.

The treaty stipulated that all buildings and tracts of land on the northwest coast
of America of which Spanish officers had dispossessed any British subjects should be
restored ; that just reparation should be made by both j^arties to the agreement for any
acts of violence committed by the subjects of either of them upon the subjects of the
other ; that any property seized should be restored or compensated for ; that subjects of
Great Britain should not approach within ten leagues of any part of the coast already
occupied by Spain ; that north of that point both parties should have equal rights, at;
well as south of the limits of Spanish settlements in South America. These were the
general features of the convention between the two nations, and were very distasteful
to a large party in parliament, who opposed the treaty on the ground that England
gained nothing and lost much ; that formerly British subjects claimed and fully exer-
cised the right of settlement and trade in the Pacific, whereas England had now
restricted herself to limits and conditions exceedingly detrimental to her commerce and
general interests. The treaty, however, was sustained by the administration majority
in Parliament.

CHAPTER XI.

DISCOVERY OF PUGET SOUND AND THE COLUMBIA.

Ene;land Sends Vancouver to the Pacific -Kendrick Sails Around Vancouver Island in the "Washington" -
Spain Again Takes Possession of Nootka and Explores the Coast -Lieutenant Quimper Explores the
Entrance to Puget Sound- Malaspina Searches for the Straits of Anian Second Voyage of the "Colum-
bia" Gray Builds the "Adventure" at Cloyoquot Spain Investigates the Desirability of Holding Nootka -
Arrival of Vancouver His Opinion that no such Stream as the Columbia Could Exist Captain Gray Enters
the Columbia Vancouver Explores and Names Puget Sound— Negotiations at Nootka Broughton Explores
the Columbia— Vancouver . in 1793 and 1794- Northwest Company Organized Mackenzie's Journey to the
Pacific.

Commissioners were ap])ointed by England and Spain to proceed to Xootka and
execute that portion of the treaty referring to the restoration of property. Captain
Geoi-ge Vancouver was selected by Great Britain for that service, and given instruc-
tions to explore the coast thoroughly, and especially to " examine the supposed Strait
of Juan de Fuca, said to be situated between the 48th and 49th degrees of north lati-
tude, and to lead to an opening through wliich the sldop Wdxh'nujtmi is rejiorted to

PACIFIC COAST. 75

have passed in 1789, and to have come out again to tlie nortliwai-d of Xootka." In
]\Iarcli, 1791, Vanconver sailed in the slooj) of war Discovery accompanied by Lieu-
tenant W. R. Broughton in the armed tender Chatham, both vessels being armed for
war and equipped for a long voyage, and did not reach Nootka until a year later.

In the fall of 1789, subsequent to the departure of Gray in the Columbia, Captain
Kendriek passed with the Washington, entirely through the Straits of Fuca and between
Vancouver island and the mainland of British Columbia, the American flag being thus
the first to wave over the waters of that great inland sea. It was this passage of the
Waah inxjton which is referred to in the extract given above of the instructions of the
lords of admiralty to Captain Vancouver.

In the spring of 1790 the Mexican viceroy dispatched a fleet to again take pos-
session of Nootka, under the command of Captain Francisco Elisa, the fiery Martinez
having been removed. Nootka was, therefore, in full jjossession of the Spaniards dur-
ing the time England and Spain were conducting their negotiations. Upon resuming
possession of Nootka, Spain began a series of short voyages of exploration, more j^ar-
ticularly to ascertain what settlements were being made by the Russians or other
foreigners than to accomplish anything of geographical value. The most important of
these was that of Lieutenant Quimper, who sailed from Nootka in the summer of 1790,
in the Princess Royal, which had not yet been restored to Captain Colnett, and entered
the Straits of Fuca a distance of 100 miles, carefully examining both shores of the
passage. He penetrated into the entrance of Puget sound, but was prevented by
lack of time from exploring the numerous arms which he observed branching oft' in
all directions, many of them evidently extending inland to a great distance. Upon
some of these he bestowed names, none of which are now used except Canal de
Guemes and Canal de Haro.

The next most important was that of Captains Malaspina and Bustamente in the
Descubierta and Atrevida. During the controversy over the Nootka seizures, the
romance of Maldonado about the Straits of Anian was rescued from the obscurity into
which it had long since passed, and received the endorsement of many able persons.
In consequence of this the expedition was fitted out by Spain to ascertain the truth of
the narrative, and was dispatched to the coast in the summer of 1791 Malaspina
carefully explored the shore line in the region of the 60th parallel, where Maldonado
located the passage, and became convinced that there could be no strait leading through
the chain of mountains which bordered the const. He then ]iroceeded to Nootka,
Avhere he arrived in August.

During this time the coast was visited by one French, nine English and >iQ\Qn
American trading vessels. As their objects were purely commercial, little was accom-
2)lished l)y any of them in the line of new discoveries of importance, though each
added a little to the fast-growing knowledge of the coast. There was one, however,
an American vessel, Avhich made the greatest discovery on the coast, and added to the
territories of the United States the vast region which, sneered at and reviled for years,
now has unstinted praise showered upon it from the four corners of the globe, and
like the stone the builders rejected at the temple of the magnificent Solomon, seems
about to be made the corner stone and crowning glory of the Union. This vessel was
the Columbia, commanded by Captain Robi-rt Gray. Passing over the V(\vages of

76 PACIFIC COAST.

other traders and all immaterial details, we proceed directly to the valuable discoveries
made by Gray.

The Columbia sailed from Boston on her second visit to the Pacific on the twenty-
eighth of Sejitember, 1790, reached the coast in June, and traded and explored among
the islands and inlets about Queen Charlotte's island until September. She then sailed
down thecoast to Cloyoquot, north of the entrance to the Straits of Fuca, where a landing
Avas etfected and the winter passed in a fortified structure which was called Fort Defi-
ance. During the winter Gray constructed at Cloyoquot a small vessel which he named
the Adventure, to be used in collecting furs from the natives. This was the second
vessel built on the Northern Pacific coast, the first being the Xorthu-est America, con-
structed by ]Meares at Nootka in 1788. In the spring the Adventure was dispatched
on a trading expedition to the north, while Gray sailed southward along the coast on
a voyage of exploration.

Early in the spring of 1792 the viceroy of Mexico' took energetic steps to deter-
mine the question of whether the settlement at Nootka was worth contending for, in
view of the expected arrival of Captain Vancouver. If there was a navigable north-
west passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific, then a station at that point would be
invaluable to the interests of Spain, but if the continent was continuous, so that all
vessels would be compelled to enter the Pacific from the south, an establishment in so
high an altitude would not be of sufficient importance to make a contest for its posses-
sion advisable. To ascertain these facts a vessel was dispatched to search for the Eio
de los Reyes in the latitude of 53 degrees, two others were to explore and ascertain the
exact nature of tlie Straits of Juan de Fuca, while a fourth was instructed to seek along
the coast of the mainland further to the southward for a suitable location to which to
remove in case the settlement at Nootka should be abandoned. At the same time
Cajjtain Bodega y Quadra proceeded to Nootka as commissioner to meet Captain Van-
couver and fulfill the terms of the treaty, with instructions to abandon Nootka if he
deemed it necessary and remove all Spanish subjects to the new location further south.

In April the Discovery and Chatham arrived off" the coast in the vicinity of Cape
Mendocino, and sailed slowly northward, careful observations being taken and a strict
examination being made of the shore for the discovery of harbors or navigable rivers
and especially the river of Martin de Aguilar. A i^oint which he conceived to be the
Cape Blanco indicated on the Spanish charts, Vancouver marked down upon his
own chart as Cape Orford. The next instance worthy of note was his passage of the
mouth of the Columbia, which was indicated on the Sj)anish charts he carried as Heceta
inlet or the entrance to the Rio de San Roque, Avhile on his English map it was noted
as the Deception bay of Captain Meares. On the twenty-seventh of April he recorded
in his journal : " Noon brought us up with a cons2:)icuous point of land comj^osed of a
cluster of hummocks, moderately high and projecting into the sea. On the south side
of this promontory was the apjDcarance of an inlet, or small river, the land not indica-
ting it to be of any great extent, nor did it seem to be accessible to vessels of our
burthen, as .the breakers extended from the above point two or three miles into the
ocean, until they joined those on the beach nearly four leagues further south. (~)n
reference to Mr. Meares's description of the coast south of this promontory, I was at
first induced to believe it to be Cape Shoalwater, but on ascertaining its latitude, I pi'e-

y6 *-

PACIFIC COAST. 77

sumod it to be that which he calls Cape Disappointment ; and the oi)ening to the south
of it Deception bay. This cape was found to be in latitude 46° 19', longitude 286° 6'
[He reckoned east from Greenwich.] The sea now changed from its natural to river
coloured water ; the probable consequence of some streams falling into the bay, or into
the ocean to the north of it, through the low land. Not considering this opening-
worthy of more attention, I continued our pursuit to the N. W., being desirous to em-
brace the advantages of the prevailing breeze and pleasant weather, so favorable to our
examination of the coast."

Vancouver rounded Cape Disappointment and continued up the shore. He says :
" The country before us presented a most luxuriant landsca^^e, and was probably not a
little heightened in value by the weather that prevailed. The more interior parts were
somewhat elevated, and agreeably diversified with hills, from which it gradually de-
scended from the shore, and terminated in a sandy beach. The whole had the appear-
ance of a continued forest extending north as far as the eye could reach, which made
me very solicitous to find a port in the vicinity of a country presenting so delightful a
prospect of fertility ; our attention was therefore earnestly directed to this object." At
one time he was of the opinion that Shoalwater bay presented a suitable harbor, but
renounced the belief upon attempting to enter the bay and failing because of the jjres-
ence of an unbroken line of breakers. They passed Gray's harbor in the night, and
after noting the position of Destruction island and observing Mount Olympus, " the
most remarkable mountain we had seen on the coast of New Albion," fell in with the
Columbia a few miles south of the Straits of Fuca.

Vancouver sent an officer to the American vessel to glean information from
its commander, who hesitated not to tell all he knew of the coast. Among other things
the English captain notes in his journal : " He likewise informed them of his having
been off the mouth of a river in the latitude 46° 10\ where the outset, or reflux, was
so strong as to prevent his entering for nine days. This was probably the opening
passed by us on the forenoon of the twenty-seventh; and was, apparently, inaccessible,
not from tlii' current, but from the breakers which extended across it." That Gray
must have made this effort to enter the Columbia sometime the previous year is evident
from the fact that Vancouver states that he was " now commencing his summer's trade
along the coast to the southward." The above remarks show plainly that Vancouver
had no faith in the existence of such a stream as Aguilar's river, Rio de 8an Roque,
Oregon, or River of the West, and this is rendered more certain by an entry in his
journal made upon reaching Cape Flattery, that there "was not the least appearance of
a safe or secui-e harbour, either in that latitude, or from it southward to Cape Mendo-
cino ; notwithstanding that, in that space, geographers had thought it expedient to
furnish many. '■' '■■ ''' So minutely had this extensive coast been inspected,
that the surf had been constantly seen to break ui)on its shores from the masthead;
and it was but in a few small intervals only, where our distance precluded its being-
visible fi'om the deck. Whenever tlie weather i)revented our making free with the
shore, or on our hauling off for the night, the return of fine weather and of daylight
uniformly brought us, if not to the identical spot we had departed from, at least within
a few miles of it, and never beyond the northern limits of the coast which we had
|>rcviously seen. An exuinination so dii-ectcd, and circuinstances hap]iily concui'rin;^-

78 PACIFIC COAST.

to permit its being so exeeuted, aiforded the most complete opportunity of determining
its various turnings and windings. '■■ * '■■■ It must be considered as a
very singular circumstance that, in so great an extent of sea coast, we should not until
now [He was in the Straits of Fuca] have seen the api^earance of any opening in its
shores which presented any certain jjrospect of affording shelter ; the whole coast
forming one compact, solid, and nearly straight barrier against the sea. The river
Mr. Gray mentioned should, from the latitude he assigned to it, have existence in the
bay, south of Cape Disappointment. This we passed on the forenoon of the twenty-
seventh ; and, as I then observed, if any inlet or river should be found, it must be a
very intricate one, and inaccessible to vessels of our burthen, owing to the reefs
and broken water which then appeared in its neighborhood. Mr. Gray stated that
he had been several days attempting to enter it, which at length he was unable to
effect, in consequence of a very strong outset. This is a phenomenon difficult to ac-
count for, as, in most eases where there are outsets of such strength on a sea coast, there
are corresponding tides setting in. Be that however as it may, I was thoroughly con-
vinced, as were also most persons of observation on board, that we could not possibly
have passed any safe navigable ojiening, harbour, or place of security for shipping on
this coast, from Cape Mendocino to the promontory of Classet (Cape Flattery); nor had
we any reason to alter our opinions." Such was the deliberate conclusion of this dis-
tinguished navigator after a thorough and searching examination of the coast, and yet
within the limits he thus declares to be barren of harbors or navigable rivers are to be
found the harbors of Humboldt bay, Trinidad bay, Crescent City, Port Orford,
Coquille river, Coos bay, Yaquiua bay, Columbia river, Shoalwater bay and Gray's
harbor.

Had it not been for the persevering zeal of an American, the C'olumbia might
have listened solely to "his own dasbings" for many years to come, since such a
decided statement from so competent an officer of his majesty's navy would have been
received as finally settling the question of the existence of such a stream and have put
an end to all search for one in that locality. Gray had his own ideas on the subject,
and proposed to carry them out in spite of the adverse opinion of the British captain.
He continued his voyage down the coast, and on the seventh of May entered a bay in
latitude 46 degrees and 48 minutes, where he lay at anchor three days. This he chris-
tened Bulfinch's harbor, in honor of one of the owners of the Columbia, but it was
called Gray's harbor by Captain Vancouver in memory of the discoverer, and retains
that honorable title to the present day.

Gray rounded Cape Disappointment early on the morning of the eleventh of ^lay,
and the weather being favorable, set all sail and stood boldly in among the high rolling
breakers whose threatening aspect had intimidated both ^Nleares and Vancouver and
caused them to assert that they were impassable. With great nautical skill and superl)
judgment, he followed accurately the channel of the stream, and at one o'clock anchored
" in a large river of fresh water," at a distance of ten miles from the guarding line of
breakers. Here he spent three days in filling his casks with fresh water and in trading
with the natives who swarmed about the vessel in canoes, the Chinook village being
close by on the river bank. He then sailed up stream "upwards of twelve or fifteen
miles," but having unfortunately missed the main channel was unable to proceed further,

PACIFIC COAST. 71)

and dropped down again to the nioutli of the river. Having execnted some much-
ueeded repairs on the vessel, he took advantage of a favorable breeze on the twentieth
and crossed over the bar to the open sea. To this great stream which he entered May
11, 1792, Gray gave the name borne by his vessel, Columbia, while the bluffy point to
the north of the entrance, which had been named Cape San Roque by Heceta and Cape
Disappointment by Meares, he called Cape Hancock in honor of that revered patriot
whose bold signature was the first on the declaration of independence. The name of
Adams, the patriotic statesman of Massachusetts and vice president of the republic, he
bestowed upon the low point to the south which had been designated l\v Heceta as Cape
Frondoso.

The (Mumhia sailed northward to the east coast of Queen Charlotte island, where
she ran upon a sunken ledge of rocks and barely escaped total destruction. She
managed, however, to reach Nootka sound in a badly damaged condition, where she
was again made tight and seaworthy by her carpenters. To Captain Bodega y Quadra
the Spanish commissioner who was awaiting the arrival of Vancouver, Gray gave a
chart showing the entrance to Bulfinch's harbor and the Columbia, and in conjunction
with Josejih Ingraham who had been mate of the Columbia during the Nootka difficul-
ties and who was now captain of the Hope then lying in the harbor, made a statement
of the difficult}' between Colnett and Martinez, wdiich Bodega retained for the inspec-
tion of Vancouver. Gray and Ingraham then sailed for home by the way of Canton.

Meanwhile Vancouver had been making many important explorations. With his
two vessels he entered the Straits of Fuca on the twenty-ninth of April and proceeded
slowly inward, making a careful examination as he progressed. In his explora-
tions of the straits and Puget sound, so named in honor of one of the officers of his
vessel, he consumed two months, carefully examining every inlet and arm of the great
inland sea. Many of the familiar names of that region were bestowed by him ; such m
New Dungeuess, from a fancied resemblance to Dungeness in the British channel ; Port
Discovery, in liouoi' of his own vessel ; Port Townsend, as a compliment to " the noble
Marquis of that name;" Mount Baker; Mount Rainier, in honor of Rear Admiral
Rainier ; Hood's channel, after Lord Hood; Port Orchard, the name of the officer who
discovered it ; Admiralty inlet ; Vashon island, after Captain Vashon of the navy ;
Possession sound, where he landed on the fourth of June and took possession in the
name of King George of England; Whidbey island, after one of his lieutenants ; Decej)-
tion pass; Burrard's channel, in compliment to Sir Harry Burrard ; Bellingham bay ;
Bute's channel. To the whole body of water to which access was had by way of the
Straits of Fuca he gave the name of Gulf of Georgia, in honor of his sovereign, while
the main land surrounding it and reaching south to the 45th parallel, or Xew xllbion,
was distinguished by the title of New Georgia.

As he emerged from Puget sound to proceed northward through the u{)per por-
tion of the Gulf of Georgia, he fell in with the two Spanish vessels that had been dis-
patched early in the spring by the viceroy to explore the Straits of Fuca. Between
the commanders of these rival vessels many courtesies w^ere exchanged, and, being on
the same errand, they for a time pursued their explorations together. After parting
t'ompany with the Spaniards, Vancouver proceeded northward, exploring the coa.st of
the mainland, until he reached Queen Charlotte island, near which both the Z)/.s"-

80 PACIFIC COAST.

corery and Cliuthaiii grounded on the rocks. They were skillfully extricated from
their perilous position and taken to Xootka sound.

Upon his arrival there, whither the two Spanish vessels had preceded him, \im-
couver opened negotiations with Bodega y Quadra in regard to restoration of lands
provided for in the treaty. The only houses and lands which British subjects had
ever possessed in any form, were the temporary structure Meares had erected for his
men while engaged in building the Northwest America, and the small tract of land
upon which it stood. Though all vestige of this habitation had disappeared before
Martinez had taken possession in 1789, still Quadra expressed his willingness to sur-
render the tract of land to Vancouver, but the English commissioner demanded pos-
session of the whole of Nootka sound and Cloyoquot. This Quadra refused to give,
and Vancouver refused to compromise his government by receiving less, and sent an
oflB.cer to England by the way of China with information of the condition of affairs.
Between Vancouver and Quadra personally the utmost cordial relations existed, and
since the land upon which Nootka stood had been found to be an island, they agreed
to have the " honors easy" in naming it. It was therefore entered upon the explorer's
chart as the Island of Quadra and Vancouver, but is now and has been for years
known only as Vancouver island.

The Daedalus having arrived from England with supplies, Vancouver sailed from
Nootka with the three vessels to explore Gray's harbor and the Columbia, having
received from Quadra the description of those places left with him by Captain Gray.
On the eighteenth of October, 1792, the Daedalus, commanded by Lieutenant Whidbey,
entered Gray's harbor, while the two consorts continued to the Columbia. On the
morning of the nineteenth the Chatham and Discovery attemj)ted the passage of the
bar, the former crossing safely, but the latter hauling off for fear there was not a suf-
ficient dejith of water. This circumstance led Vancouver to record in his journal that
his " former opinion of this port being inaccessible to vessels of our burthen was now
fully confirmed, with this exception, that in very fine weather, with moderate winds,
and a smooth sea, vessels not exceeding four hundred tons might, so far as we were
enabled to judge, gain admittance." It was while lying at anchor off the bar that he
gained a view of a "high, round snow mountain" far up the stream, which he named
Mount St. Helens, in honor of his Britanic majesty's ambassador at the court of
Madrid.

The first sound that saluted the commander of the Chatham upon crossing the
bar was the report of a cannon, which was answered in a similar manner by Lieuten-
ant Broughton. It came from a Bristol brig called the Jenny, lying in a sheltered
bay within the mouth of the stream, which has ever since been known as Baker's bay
in honor of the captain of that little craft. This made the second vessel to enter the
river before the representatives of Great Britain undertook to explore it. The Chat-
ham lay in the river several days, during which time Broughton ascended the stream
in a boat some 120 miles, as far as a poir.r which he named in honor of the commander
of the expedition, being the same upon wnich Fort Vancouver was afterwards built l>y
the Hudson's Bay Company. During his stay he formally " took possession of the
river and the country in its vicinity in his Britanic majesty's name, having every rea-
son to believe that the subjects of no other civilized nation or state had ever entered

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PACIFIC COAST. 81

this river hefbre." Tlie closing portion of this sentence sounds strangely from one
who had in his possession at the time he penned it the rough chart made by Gray,
which had been the cause of his being there at all. It is explained by saying that he
affected to consider the broad estuary near the mouth of the stream as no portion of
the river, and that in consequence Gray had not entered the river proper. This
strained construction England maintained in the after controversy with the United
States aljout the rights of discovery.

Vancouver remained in the Pacific two years longer, spending the summers of
1793 and 1794 in carefully exploring the coast of the mainland above Queen Char-
lotte island, searching every cove and inlet for a passage to the Atlantic, until he
became as thoroughly convinced that there was no such passage as he had been that
no such river as the Columbia existed. Meanwhile negotiations were carried on
between England and Spain in regard to Nootka, and those two nations having allied
themselves against France, the Xootka affair was dropped. In the spring of 1795 the
Spaniards abandoned Nootka sound forever, the question of possession never having
been settled, and thus the whole affiiir ended.

When the independence of her American colonies was granted by England, that
nation was left without any representative in North America by whom her dominion
could be extended westward, exce2:)t the Hudson's Bay Company, which organization
was more deeply interested in maintaining the vast region to the west and north as a
fur-bearing wilderness than in adding new jewels to the British crown. It was only
when a rival to the great monopoly grew up and threatened to carry on successful op-
position that the old company adopted a more aggressive policy.

As early as 1775 a few Montreal traders had pushed as far west as the Saskatchewan
and Athabaska rivers, and opened up a successful trade, which was carried on for some
years by independent traders. At last, in 1784, because of inability to contend and
compete with the monopoly as individuals, these traders combined together as the
Northwest Company of Montreal. This company operated in a most practical manner,
its agents all being interested partners, and soon became an organization of much
wealth and power. The company steadily pushed its agents and stations westward, and
energetically extended the limits of its operations. In 1778 a station had been estab-
lished on Athabaska river, some 1200 miles northwest of Lake Superior, but in 1788
this was abandoned and Fort Chipewyan built on Lake Athabaska, which became the
base of the company's operations in the extreme west. Traders extended their opera-
tions westward to the Rocky mountains, called by them Shining mountains or Moun-
tains of Bright Stones.

In 1789 Alexander Mackenzie, the gentleman in charge of Fort Chipewyan, dis-
covered the Mackenzie river where it issues from Great Slave lake, and followed down
its whole course to the Arctic ocean. The same gentleman started in October, 1792, to
cross the continent to the Pacific. He passed up Peace river and camped until spring
at the base of the Rocky mountains, engaging in trade. In June, 1793, he crossed the
mountains, and descended in canoes a large river a distance of 250 miles. This he
called the Tacoutcliee-Tassee, and after the discovery of the Columbia was announced
it was supposed to be identical with that great stream, until in 1812 Simon Fraser
traced it to the ocean and called it Eraser's river. Upon leaving this stream ^lac-

82 PACIFIC COAST.

kenzie eoutiiiued westward some 200 miles and cauglit sight of the oceau July 22, 1793,
being the first Caucasian, and possibly the first human being, to cross America overland
from the Atlantic to the Pacific north of Mexico. The 25lace at which he reached the
ocean was in latitude 52 degrees and 20 minutes, and had been exj^lored and named
Cascade canal but a few weeks before by Vancouver.

The two journeys of this energetic trader, the careful explorations of Cook and
Vancouver, and discovery of the Columbia by Gray, served to enlighten all interested
nations in regard to the nature of the American continent, and to prove conclusively
that neither the Straits of Aniau nor the Rio de los Reyes had any other existence
than in the fancy of those who, centuries before, had proclaimed them. The Northwest
Company pushed its agents down to the headwaters of the Missouri, while French and
Spanish traders ascended that stream from St. Louis, and engaged in trade with the
natives and trapped the streams for beaver. Because of the Spanish claim to Louisiana,
American traders were much confined in the limits of their operations, and were also
restricted by the holding back of posts in the region of the great lakes which Great
Britain should have surrendered under the terms of the treaty of 1783. These were
surrendered in 1794 by special treaty, which instrument also provided that subjects of
Great Britain and the United States should have unrestricted intercourse and rights of
trade. From this time American fur traders extended their operations further west-
ward and inci'eased the volume of their trade. This was the condition of aifairs in
America at the close of the eighteenth century.

OREGON.

CHAPTER XII.

CAPTAINS LEWIS AND CLARKE TRAVERSE THE CONTINENT.

Situation at the Beginning- of the Nineteenth Century -Colonial Limits of the United States The Louisiana
Purchase England and America Rivals in the West Expedition of Lewis and Clarke— Their Winter Among
the Mandans —Journey up the Missouri. Across the Rockies, Down Clarke's Fork, Through the Lolo Trail,
Down Clearwater. Snake and Columbia Rivers to the Pacifi:- They Wmter at Fort Clatsop- -Discovery of
the Willamette -The Walla Wallas, Cayuses and Nez Perces -Arrival in St. Louis— What the Expedition
Accomplished.

"Take the wings
Of morning, pierce the Barcan wilderness,
Or lose thyself in the continuous woods
Where rolls the Oregon, and hears no sound
Save his own dashings."

So sang Bryant of the mighty Cokiiubia and the hmd of "coutinuous woods,"
through which it majestically rolls. The name Oregon which Carver had given to the
Great River of the West was for years applied to the Columbia and the whole region
through which it passes, stretching from the Rocky mountains to the Pacific, and from
California indefinitely northward. The name bestowed upon the stream by its discov-
erer gradually crowded Carver's title from the field, until it is now recognized as the
only proper one, while the significance of Oregon has gradually been contracted until
that title now applies only to the state of which we write.

At the dawning of the present century, now rapidly drawing near to the "sear and
yellow leaf," three powerful nations claimed dominion on our coast, the indefinite boun-
daries of their alleged possessions conflicting and overlapping to such an extent as to be
a constant menace of war. England, Sixain and Russia claimed territorial sovereignty
gained by the discoveries and acts of persons officially empowered by their respective
governments, while in common with them representatives of the merchant fleets of the
United States, France, Portugal and Austria sotight the Pacific waters to reap tlic liar-
vest of wealth that lay in the fur trade of the coast.

Suddenly and almost unexpectedly a new nation step2:)ed ujion the jilain to contest
witli her powerful rivals the palm of territorial dominion, and this was the new-l^orn
republic, the United States of America. In the few years whicli had elapsed since her

84 OBEGON.

long struggle for independence had been crowned with success, and esjjecially since a
constitutional bond had firmly cemented the states into one grand, united nation, her
growth in population, wealth, power and importance had been wonderful, and she now
prepared to assert her natural right to extend her borders in the direction plainly indi-
cated by the hand of nature.

The position the United States then occ'upied in relation to Oregon may be briefly
stated as follows: At the treaty of 1783, where Great Britain formally acknowledged
the independence of her valiant colonies, her commissioners for a long time refused to
relimiuisli to them that portion of her ^possessions lying between the AUeghanies and
the ]Mississipjii ; but as the colonies had been accustomed to exercise jurisdiction as far
west as the great river of DeSoto, being the extreme western limit of British posses-
sions since it was the eastern boundary of Louisiana, the American commissioners in-
sisted upon that territory being included, and finally carried their point. Even then it
was eleven years before England surrendered the seven military i>osts within that por-
tion of the United States and then only after much pressure had been brought to bear.
England was, therefore, only represented in America after the revolution, so far as
western exploration and settlement was concerned, by the powerful Hudson's Bay Com-
pany, and its new rival, the Northwest Company, whose struggle for possession of the
unclaimed fur regions west of Canada and Hudson's bay has been already alluded
to and will again occupy attention further on. The boundary agreed upon between
England and the United States followed up the St. Lawrence from a certain initial
point, through the chain of great lakes and the smaller ones lying west of Superior as
far as the Lake of the Woods, whence the line cut across to the headwaters of the
Mississipi^i, and followed down that stream to the Spanish Florida line. This left
within the limits of the United States a portion of that extremely desirable region
spoken of by Lahontan, Hennepin and others, and but recently described by Captain
Jonathan Carver, while the new nation bordered upon the remainder with nothing
but the theoretical title of Spain to stand between her and an indefinite extension
westward. On the other hand, only above the United States line did Great Britain's
230Ssessions border upon this terra Incognita and in a region universally recognized as
being fit only for the occupation of wandering fur traders.

The title to Louisiana which Spain had acquired by purchase from France in 17G2,
she reconveyed to that powerful nation in 1800 ; but Napoleon, recognizing the fact
that his ambitious designs in Europe would only be hampered by the jjossession and
necessary protection of vast territorial interests in the United States, and desiring to
spite England and place her face to face in America with an energetic and iiowerful
rival, sold the whole province with all the right and title of France to the United
States in 1803. " The eastern boundary was the Mississippi ; its southwestern limit the
Spanish, Mexican and California possessions, while to the northwest there was no limit
whatever. This action, so entirely unexpected by England, changed the whole aspect
of affairs in America, and left the United States without any bar whatever to prevent
the extension of her dominions toward the Pacific.

At the time John Ledyard undertook to organize a company in Paris to engage
in the Pacific fur trade, Thomas Jefierson was residing there as representative of the
United States at the court of France, and became deeply interested in his project of

'^J!ppj^^J4^

OREGON. 85

exploring the northwestern wilderness of America, which was defeated by the Russian
traders. In 1792 ^Mr. Jefferson i)roi)Osed to the American. Philosophical Society that
A subscription be raised for the purpose of engaging some competent person to explore
that region "by ascending the Missouri, crossing the Stony mountains, and descending
the nearest river to the Pacific." Meriwether Lewis, a native of Virginia and a lieu-
tenant in the United States army, warmly solicited the position, and was selected at
the request of Mr. Jefferson. Mr. Andre Michaux, a distinguished French botanist,
was chosen as his traveling companion. This gentleman was in the employ of the
French government, and when he had proceeded as far as Kentucky upon the overland
journey, he was recalled by the French minister, and the expedition was abandoned.
On the eighteenth of January, 1803, Mr. Jefferson, as president of the United States,
incorjiorated into a special message to congress on the Indian question a suggestion that
such a journey as he had before advocated be made by representatives of the govern-
ment. This projJOsition was approved by congress and an ample ajjpropriation made
to carry it into effect. Lewis had then become a caj^tain and was acting in the capacity
of private secretary to the 25resident, and upon urgent solicitation received the direction
of the enterprise. Captain Lewis selected William Clarke as an associate in command,
and that gentleman accordingly received a captain's commission and was detailed for
this duty.

In the instructions drawn up for the guidance of the party, the president says:
"The object of your mission is to explore the Missouri river, and such principal streams
of it, as, by its course and communication with the waters of the Pacific ocean, whether
the Columbia, Oregon, Colorado, or any other river, may offer the most direct and
practicable water communication across the continent, for the purposes of commerce."
They were directed to acquire as intimate a knowledge as possible of the extent and
number of Indian tribes, their manners, customs and degree of civilization, and to
report fully upon the topograph}^ the character of the soil, the natural products, the
animal life and minerals, as well as to ascertain by scientific observations and inquiry
as much as possible about the climate, and to inquire especially into the fur trade and
the needs of commerce. Since Louisiana had not yet been formally conveyed to the
United States, Captain Lewis' instructions contained a paragraph saying : "Your mis-
sion has lieen communicated to the ministers here from France, Spain and Great Britain,
and thi-ough them to their governments ; and such assurances given them as to its ob-
jects, as we trust will satisfy them. The country of Louisiana having been ceded by
Spain to France, the jiassport you have from the minister of France, the representative
of the present sovereign of the country, will be a protection with all irs subjects ; and
that from the minister of Elugland will entitle you to the friendly aid of any traders
of that allegiance with whom you may happen to meet."

All arrangements were completed and Lewis left Washington on the fiftli of July,
ISO;;, only a few days subsequent to the receipt of the joyful intelligence that France
had ceded Louisiana to the United States. He Avas joined by Clarke at Louisville,
and the two selected their men and repaired to St. Louis, near which they encamped
until s])ring. The party which finally started on this great journey 3Iay 14, 1804,
consistetl of Captain Meriwether Lewis, Captain William Clarke, nine young men
iVom Kentucky, fourteen soldiers, two French watermen, known in tlie parlance of

86 OEEGOX.

fur traders as voyageurs, an interpreter and hunter and a negro servant of Captain
Clarke. Besides these were a number of assistants who accompanied the expedition as
far as the Mandan country.

The party ascended the Missouri as far as the region inhabited by the Mandan
Indians, with wliom they spent the winter, and while there negotiated treaties of peace
between their hosts and the Ricarees, and informed themselves carefully upon the con-
dition of Indian affairs and the geography of the surrounding country.

In the spring of 1805 the journey westward was resumed, by following u]) the
Missouri, of whose course, tributaries and the great falls they had received very minute
and accurate information from their Mandan friends. Passing the mouth of the Yel-
lowstone, which name they record as being but a translation of Roche Jaune, the title
.given it by French-Canadian trappers who had already visited it, they continued up
the Missouri, passed the castellated rocks and the great falls and cascades, ascended
through the mighty canyon, and reaching the headwaters of the stream crossed the
Rocky mountain divide and came upon the stream variously known along its course as
Deer Lodge, Hellgate, Bitterroot, Clarke's Fork of the Columbia and Pend d'Oreille
river. Upon this they bestowed the name Clarke's river, and so it should be called
from its source in the Rocky mountains to where it unites with the main stream in
British Columbia. From this river the advance party under Clarke crossed the Bit-
terroot mountains by the Lolo trail, suffering intensely from cold and hunger, and on
the twentieth of September reached a village of ^ez Perce Indians situated on a plain
about fifteen miles from the south fork of Clearwater river, where they were received
with great hospitality. This first passage of the mountains by representatives of the
United States and their warm reception by the Indians, contrast strongly with a scene
witnessed by this same Lolo trail, when in 1877 Howard's army hotly pursued Chief
Joseph and his little band of hostile jSTez Perces, who were fleeing before the avengers
from the scene of their many bloody massacres.

The almost famished men partook of such quantities of the food liberally pro-
vided by their savage hosts that many of them became ill, among them being Captain
Clarke, who was unable to continue the journey until the second day. He then went
to the village of Twisted-hair, the chief, situated on an island in the stream mentioned.
To the river he gave the name Koos-koos-kee, erroneously supposing it to be its
Indian title. The probabilities are that the Nez Perces, in trying to inform Captain
Clarke that this river flowed into a still larger one, the one variously known as Lewis,
Sahaptin or Snake river, used the words " Koots-koots-kee," meaning " This is the
smaller," and were understood to have meant that as the name of the stream. The
Nez Perce name is Kaih-kaih-koosh, signifying Clearwater, the name it is gener-
ally known by.

Having been united the two parties a few days later journeyed on down the Clear-
water. Concerning their de^jlorable condition and their method of traveling the
journal says : " Captain Lewis and two of the men were taken very ill last evening,
and to-day he could scarcely sit on his horse, while others were obliged to be jjut on
horse-back and some, from extreme weakness and pain, were forced to lie down along-
side of the road. ■'■ '■' '^' The weather was very hot and oppressive to the
party, most of whom are now complaining of sickness. Our situation, indeed, ren-

OREGON. 87

(lered it necessary to liusl)aii( I our remaining strength and it was determined to proceed
down the river in can(jes. Captain Clarke, therefore, set out witli the Twisted-hair,
and two young men, in quest of timher for canoes. '^ ^' •'•' Having resolved
to go down to some spot calculated for building canoes, we set out early this morning
and proceeded five miles, and encamped on low ground on the south opi^osite the forks
of the river." The canoes being constructed they embarked in the month of October
on their journey down the Clearwater and connecting streams for the Pacific, leaving
what remained of their horses in charge of the friendly Nez Perces. They had for
some time been subsisting upon roots, fish, horse meat and an occasional deer, crow, or
wolf, but having left their horses behind them their resort when out of other food
now became the wolfish dogs they purchased from the Indians.

Upon reaching Snake river which was named in honor of Captain Lewis, the
canoes were turned down that stream, which they followed to the Columbia, naming the
Tukannon river Kim-so-emim, a title derived from the Indians, and upon the Pa-
louse bestowing the name Drewyer, in honor of the hunter of the party. They then
followed down the Columbia passing a number of rapids, and arriving at the Cascades
on the twenty-first of October. A portage was made of all their effects and a 230rtion
of the canoes, the remainder making the ijerilous descent of the cascades or falls in
safety. The mouth of the Willamette was passed without the addition of so large a
stream being noticed. Cape Disappointment was reached November 15, and the eyes
of the weary travelers were gladdened with a sight of the graat ocean which had been
their goal for more than a year. The season of winter rains having set in, they were
soon driven by high water from the low land on the north bank of the stream, eleven
miles above the cape, which they had selected for their winter residence. They then
left the Chinooks, crossed the river, and built a habitation on the high land on the
south side of the stream, which they called Fort Clatsop, in honor of the Indians who
inhabited that region. Here they spent the winter, making occasional short excursions
along the coast. The departure for home was delayed with the hope that some trading
vessel might appear from which sadly-needed supplies might be obtained, but being-
disappointed in this they loaded their canoes and on March 23, 1806, took final leave
of Fort Clatsoj). Before going they presented the chiefs of the Chinooks and Clatsops,
with certificates of kind and hospitable treatment, and circulated among the natives
several papers, posting a copy on the wall of the abandoned fort, which read as follows:
" The object of this last is, that through the medium of some civilized person, who
may see the same, it may be made known to the world, that the party, consisting of
the persons whose names are hereunto annexed, and who were sent out by the Govern-
ment of the United States to explore the interior of the continent of North America,
did penetrate the same by the way of the Missouri and Columbia i-ivers, to the dis-
charge of the latter into the Pacific ocean, where they arrived on the fourteenth day
of November, 1805, and departed the twenty-third day of March, 180G, on their
return to the United States by the same route by which they had come out." To this
was appended a list of the members of the expedition. One of these copies was lianded
by an Indian the following year to a fur trader whose vessel had entered the Columbia,
by wlmni it was taken to China and a transcription of it forwarded to the United

States ; thus, even had the party perished on the return journey, evidence of the coni-
jiletion of their task was not wanting.

Upon taking an invoice of their possessions before starting upon the return, they
found that their goods available for traffic with the Indians consisted of six blue robes,
one scarlet robe, one U. S. artillery hat and coat, five robes made from the national
ensign, and a few old clothes trimmed with ribbon. Upon these must they depend
for purchasing provisions and horses and for winning the hearts of stubborn chiefr.

They proceeded uj) the south bank of the stream, until they came unexpectedly
upon a large river flowing into it from the south, On an island near its mouth, known
to the early trappers as Wapatoo and now called Sauvie's island, they caine upon an
Indian village, where they were refused a sujjply of food. To impress them with his
power, Captain Clarke, entered one of their habitations and cast a few sulphur matches
into the fire. The savages were frightened at the blue flame and looked upon the
strange visitor as a great medicine man. They implored him to extinguish the " evil
fire," and brought all the food he desired. The name of the Indian village was Mult-
nomah, but Captain Clarke understood the name to apply to the river, of whose course
he made careful inquiry. Upon the map of this expedition the Multnomah is repre-
sented as extending southward and eastward into California and Nevada, and the In-
dians who resided along the streams that flow from southeastern Oregon into the 8nake
are represented as living on the upper branches of the Multnomah. The true Indian
name of the river and valley is Wallamet, which has l^een corrupted to Willamette by
those who conceived the idea that it was of French origin. The confusion between,
Indian, French and English names in this region has resulted in many very jjccu-
liar and ridiculous appellations.

At the mouth of Lapage river, the stream later named John Day, in memory
of the bold mountaineer who met such a tragic fate, the canoes were abandoned, and
the party proceeded up the Columbia on foot, packing their baggage upon the backs of
a few horses purchased from the natives. Crossing the Umatilla, which they called
You-ma-lolam, they arrived at the mouth of the Walla Walla, on the twenty-seventh of
April. Yellept, the Walla AValla chief, was a man of unusual capacity and power, and
extended to them the most cordial and bountiful hosj)itality they had enjoyed since
leaving the abodes of civilization. How difiereut would have been the reception
extended them could the old chief have gazed into the future with prophetic eye, ami
seen his great successor, Peo-peo-mux-mux, murdered while unjustly a prisoner by
members of the same race and tribe to which these white guests belonged ! It is
related of Yellept that in after years, having seen the last of five noble sons perish in
battle or by the hand of disease, he called together the tribe, and throwing himself
upon the body of his last son sternly bade them to bury him with his dead. With loud
lamentations and heart-broken sobs they did as he commanded, and buried alive the
great chief they both loved and feared. This was the man who extended his hospi-
talities to Lewis and Clarke, and because of the important part the Walla Wallas and
Cayuses played in the after history of this region, the following account given by those
gentlemen of their entertainers is presented : Their journal says : " Immediately
upon our arrival, Yellept, who proved to be a man of much influence, not only in his
own, but in the'neio'hborino- nations, collected the inhabitants, and after havinsi' maile a

WALUNO llfH PORTLAND OH

Residence of O.Coolidge. Ashland.

OREGON. 89

liarraugue, the i)urp(jrt (if wliich was to induce the nations to treat us hospitably, set
them an example, by bringing himself an armful of wood, and a jilatter containing
three roasted mullets. They immediately assented to one part, at least, of the recom-
mendation, by furnishing us with an abundance of the only sort of fuel they employ,
the stems of shrubs growing in the plains. We then purchased four dogs, on which
we supped heartily, having been on short allowance for two days past. When we were
disposed to sleep, the Indians retired immediately on our request, and, indeed, uni-
formly conducted themselves with great propriety. These people live on roots, which
are very abundant in the plains, and catch a few salmon-trout; but at present they
seem to subsist chiefly on a species of mullet, weighing from one to three pounds.
* * * Monday, twenty-eighth, w'e purchased ten dogs. While this trade
was carrying on by our men, Yellept brought a fine white horse, and presented him to
Captain Clarke, expressing at the same time a wish to have a kettle ; but on being
informed that we had already disposed of the last kettle we could spare, he said he
would be content with any present we should make in return. Captain Clarke, there-
fore, gave his sword, for which the chief had before expressed a desire, adding one
hundred balls, some powder, and other small articles, with which he appeared jjerfectly
satisfied. We were now anxious to depart, and requested Yellept to lend us canoes for
the purpose of crossing the river. But he would not listen to any proposal of leaving
the village. He wished us to remain two or three days ; but would not let us go to-
day, for he had already sent to invite his neighbors, the Chimnapoos (Cayuses), to
come down this evening and join his j^eople in a dance for our amusement. We urged,
in vain, that by setting out sooner, w^e would the earlier return with the articles they
desired ; for a day, he observed, would make but little difference. We at length men-
tioned, that, as there was no wind, it was now the best time to cross the river, and
would merely take the horses over, and return to sleep at their village. To this he
assented, and then we crossed with our horses, and having hobbled them, returned to
theii' camp. Fortunately there was among these WoUawollalis, a prisoner belonging
to a tribe of Shoshonee or Snake Indians, residing to the south of the Multnomah, and
visiting occasionally the heads of the Wollawollah creek. Our Shoshonee woman,
Sacajaweah, though she belonged to a tribe near the Missouri, spoke the same language
as this prisoner, and by their means we were able to explain ourselves to the Indians,
and answer all their inquiries with respect to ourselves and the object of our journev.
Our conversation inspired them with much confidence, and they soon brought several
sick persons, for whom they requested our assistance. We splintered the broken arm
of one, gave some relief to another, whose knee was contracted by rheumatism, and
administered what we thought beneficial for ulcers and eruptions of the skin, on various
parts of the body, which are very common disoi'ders among them. But our most valu-
able medicine was eye-water, which we distributed, and which, indeed, they required
very much; the complaint of the eyes, occasioned by living on the water, and increased
by the fine sand of the plains, being now universal. A little before sunset, the Chim-
napoos, amounting to one hundred men and a few women, came to the village,
and joining the WoUawoUahs. who were about the same number of nu'u, formed
tliemselves in a circle round our camp, and waited veiy i)atiently till our men were
disposed to dance, which they did for about an hour, to the tune of tlie violin. They

90 OREGON.

tluMi requested to see the Indians dance. With this they readily complied, and the
whole assemblage, amounting, with the women and childi-en of the village, to several
hundred, stood up, and sang and danced at the same time. The exercise was not, in-
deed, very graceful, for the greater part of them were formed into a solid column, round
a kind of hollow square, stood on the same j^lace, and merely jumped up at intervals,
to keep time to the music. Some, however, of the more active wai-riors entered the
square, and danced round it sidewise, and some of our men joined in the dance, to the
great satisfaction of the Indians. The dance continued till ten o'clock the next morn-
ing. In the course of the day we gave small medals to two inferior chiefs, each of
whom made us a present of a fine horse. We were in a poor condition to make an
adequate acknowledgment for this kindness, but gave several articles, among which
was a pistol, with some hundred rounds of ammunition. We have, indeed, been treated
by these jjeople with an unusual degree of kindness and civilty. * '^ * We may
indeed, justly affirm that of all the Indians whom we have met since leaving the United
States, the Wollawollahs were the most hospitable, honest and sincere."

Bidding adieu to these hospitable people, they left the Columbia on the twenty-
ninth of April and followed eastward what is known as the Nez Perce trail. They
Avent up the Touchet, called by them White Stallion because of the present Yellept
had made to Captain Clarke, the Patet and Pataha and down the Alpowa to Snake
river, which they crossed and followed up the north side of Clearwater until they
reached the village of Twisted-hair, where had been left their horses the fall before.
The Lolo trail was not yet free from snow and for six weeks they resided among the
Nez Perces, a tribe closely woven into the history of this region. Of them and the
intercourse held with them the fiiU before, the journal says : "The Chopunnish or
Pierce-nosed nation, who reside on the Kooskooskee and Lewis' rivers, are in person
stout, portly, well-looking men; the women are small, with good features, and generally
handsome, though the complexion of both sexes is darker than that of the Tushepaws.
In dress they resemble that nation, being fond of displaying their ornaments. The
buffalo or elk skin robe decorated with beads, sea shells, chiefly mother-of-pearl,
attached to an otter skin collar, and hung iji the hair, which falls in front in two queues;
feathers, paint of different kinds, principally white, green and light blue, all of which
they find in their own country; these are the chief ornaments they use. In winter they
wear a short shirt of dressed skins, long painted leggings and moccasins, and a plait of
twisted grass around the neck. The dress of the women is more simple, consisting of a
long shirt of argalia or ibex skin, reaching down to the ankles without a girdle ; to
this are tied little pieces of brass and shells, and other small articles ; but the head
is not at all ornamented. The dres-i of the female is indeed more modest,
and more studiously so, than any we have observed, though the other sex is
careless of the indelicacy of exposure. The Chopunnish have very few amusements,
for their life is painful and laborious ; and all their exertions are necessary to earn
even their j^recarious subsistence. During the summer and autumn they are busily
occupied in fishing for salmon, and collecting their winter store of roots. In the win-
ter they hunt the deer on snow-shoes over the plains, and towards spring cross the
mountains to the Missouri, for the purpose of trafficing for buffiilo robes. The incon-
veniences of that comfortless life are increased by frequent encounters with their

enemies from the west, who drive them over the mountains with the loss of their horses,
and sometimes tlie lives of many of the nation. Though originally the same people,
their dialect varies very jierceptibly from that of the Tushepaws; their treatment of us
differed much from the kind and disinterested services of the Shoshonees (Snakes); they
are indeed selfish and avaricious ; they part very reluctantly with every article of food
or clothing ; and while they expect a recomjDense for every service, however small, do
not concern themselves about reciprocating any presents we may give them. They are
generally healthy — the' only disorders, which we have had occasion to remark, being
of a scrofulous kind, and for these, as well as for the amusement of those who are in
good health, hot and cold bathing is very commonly used. The soil of these prairies
is of a light yellow clay, intermixed with small, smooth grass ; it is barren, and pro-
duces little more than a bearded grass about three inches high, and a prickly pear,
wdiieh we now found three species." It is very evident that these gentlemen were not
a.ct|uainted with the attributes of the succulent bunch grass, the stockman's friend, nor
of the soil, for the country they denominated "barren" is now producing thirty bushels
of wheat to the acre without any irrigation or fertilizing of any kind.

On the fifteenth of June an effort was made to cross the Bitterroot mountains, but
it was unsuccessful, and not until the thirtieth were the mountains safely passed.
On the fourth of July the comjmny separated into two parties, one of them under Cap-
tain Lewis striking across the mountains to the Missouri, down which it passed, ex-
ploring the larger tributaries and learning much of the geography of Montana ; the
other was led by Clarke to the headwater's of the Yellowstone, down which it passed
to the Missouri, uniting with the first party some distance below the mouth of the
Yellowstone on the twelfth of August. They then continued down the stream, arriv-
ing at St. Louis September 25, 1806, having been gone more than two years, and bav-
ins: achieved honor for themselves and rendered inestimable services to their government.

CHAPTER XIII.

THE ASTORIA ENTERPRISE.

The Northwest Company Establishes a Post on Eraser Lake Result of the Journey of Lewis and Clarke— Fort
Henry Built by Americans on Snake River -Ore^anization of the Pacific Fur Company Canadian Voyageurs
Astoria Founded Sad Fate of the Tonquin Terrible Sufferings of Hunt's Party —Success of the Business in
1813 McDougal Sells the Property to the Northwest Company The Other Parties Return to the Atlantic
Coast.

When (Jreat Britain was officially notified that an expedition was about to l)e
dispatched by the United States government to explore that much-claimed i-egiou lying
to the west of the Mississippi, much anxiety was felt, especially by the Northwest Com-
pany of Montreal, whose traders were operating farther west and south than were the
«'ini)loyees of the Hudson's Bay Company. Tliey could not be expected to submit

without a struggle to the loss of so vast a territory in which to prosecute their peculiar
industry. The line of division west of the Lake of the Woods was undefined, and the
extent of territory to be occupied in the future by England and America depended
largely upon the actual occupancy by the contending parties. The Northwest Com-
pany consequently, in 1804, dispatched a trusted agent named Laroque, in command
of a party, with instructions to establish trading posts on the Columbia. Laroque
failed utterly to accomplish the purpose of his journey, since circumstances conspired
to prevent him from progressing beyond the Missouri river in the Mandan country.
The next year Simon Fraser left the company's headquarters at Fort Chipewyan, and
following the course pursued thirteen years before by Mackenzie, reached Fraser lake,
where he founded a trading post. This post of the Northwest Company was the first
establishment made by Englishmen or Americans west of the Rocky mountains, and
lies one hundred miles north of the international line subsequently established. The
name New Caledonia was bestow^ed upon that region, which was considered to lie north
of the country known as Oregon.

The return of Lewis and Clarke was the cause of great rejoicing in the United
States. Mr. Jefferson says : " Never did a similar event excite more joy throughout
the United States. The humblest of its citizens had taken a lively interest in the issue
of this journey, and looked forward with impatience to the information it would furnish.
Their anxieties, too, for the safety of the corps had been kept in a state of excitement
by lugubrious rumors, circulated from time to time on uncertain authorities, and
uncontradicted by letters, or other direct information, from the time they had left the
Mandan towns, on their ascent up the river in April of the preceding year, 1805,
until their actual return to St. Louis." -Captain Lewis was soon after his return ap-
pointed governor of Louisiana, wath which his journey had rendered him more familiar
than any other man except his associate ; and Captain Clarke was ap2:)ointed general of
militia of the same territory and agent for Indian affairs in that vast region he had
explored. During a period of temporary mental derangement Captain Lewis died by
his own hand, in September, 1809, before he had fully completed his narrative of the
journey. The history of the expedition was prepared from his manuscript under the
direction of -Captain Clarke and was first published in 1814. The general details,
however, were spread throughout the country immediately upon their return, especially
on the frontier. During their absence other exploring parties were traversing Louis-
iana in various directions in search of information for the government. Lieutenant
Pike ascended the Mississippi to its headwaters in 1805, and the following year jour-
neyed southwestward from the mouth of the Missouri to the sources of the Arkansas,
Red and Rio Bravo del Norte. At the same time Dunbar, Hunter and Sibley explored
Red river and its companion streams. These explorations served to greatly stimulate
the fur trade carried on from St. Louis and Macinaw, as well as to strengthen the
government in its purpose of adhering to its right to Louisiana, acquired by the
tripple method of purchase, discovery and exploration. To these was soon added the
fourth and most important — occupation.

One of the first results of the expedition was the organization of the Missouri Fur
Company, in 1808, with headquarters at St. Louis. Trading posts were established on
the affluents of the Mississippi and Missouri, and that same year INIr. Henry, one of

Walling Lith Portlamo-Or

Court House, Jac so
Erete

«.LE, Jackson County.
.D.I8B3.

OREGON. 93

the agents of the coiiii>any, crossed the mountains and founded Fort Henry on the
headwaters of Lewis or Snake river, being the first American establishment west of the
Rocky mountains. The first effort to occupy the mouth of the Cohimbia was made by
the captain of one of the American vessels trading in the Pacific, whose name is
variously given by historians as T. Winship, Nathaniel Winship, and Captain Smith.
In 1810 this gentleman built a small house for trading purposes at Oak Point, on the
south bank of the Columbia some sixty miles above its mouth, far enough up the
stream to meet even the requirements of Captain Vancouver's idea of what constituted
a river.

During the first decade of the nineteenth century American fishing and trading
vessels crowded the Pacific, while other nations were not entirely unrepresented. The
fur trade developed into a great industry, being conducted by them in the most prac-
tical manner. All furs collected by the Russian American Trading Company were
sent to China or Russia by land from Kamtchatka, since their vessels were not granted
the privilege of entering Chinese ports. It was this fact and because England had
granted to monopolies the control of her Pacific commerce, that the fur trade by sea
was conducted chiefly by Americans. That this condition of affairs should be especially
distasteful to the subjects of Great Britain is natural. They looked upon the enter-
prise and success of these " Yankee adventurers " with jealous eyes, nor were they
willing to give them the least credit for their skill as navigators or energy as trades-
men. Because they conducted the details of their traffic in such a way as to render it
highly successful, they were classed by the English traders as adventurers, though often
the representatives of wealthy and substantial business houses. Archibald Campbell
thus contemptuously reviews their method of carrying on the Pacific commerce :
" These adventurers set out on the voyage with a few trinkets of very little value. In
the Southern Pacific, they pick up a few seal skins, and perhaps a few butts of oil ; at
the Gallipagos, they lay in turtle, of which they preserve the shells ; at Valparaiso they
raise a few dollars in exchange for European articles ; at Nootka, and other parts of
the northwest coast, they traffic with the natives for furs, which, when winter com-
mences, they carry to the Sandwich islands, to dry and preserve from vermin ; here
they leave their OAvn people to take care of them, and, in the spring, embark, in lieu,
the natives of the islands, to assist in navigating to the northwest coast in search of
more skins. The remainder of the cargo is then made up of sandal, which grows
abundantly in the woods of Atooi and Owyhee (Hawaii), of tortoise shells, sharks'
fins, and pearls of an inferior kind, all of which are acceptable in the China market;
and with these and their dollars they purchase cargoes of teas, silks and nankins, and
thus complete their voyage in the course of two or three years."

This may be considered a correct statement of the general manner of conducting
the trade by Americans, with the exception of the " few trinkets " slur, for the majority
of vessels, which were large and valuable ones, took out with them (piite extensive
cargoes of English, American and other manufactured goods and products, with which
they supj)lied the Spanish and Russian settlements, the lattei- in particular relying
almost wholly upon the Americans for their supplies of ammunition, sugar, spirits and
manufactured articles. That a large {iroportion of furs procured from the natives were
paid for in "trinkets" is true, liut this practice was as much indulged in by English

94 OREGON.

traders on the Atlnntic side as by Americans on the Pacific, and such articles have
alwaj's in every Umd and by every nation been deemed a valuable consideration in
dealing with uncivilized races. The Americans are deserving of much credit for their
economical, energetic and highly practical method of conducting their commercial
ventures in the Pacific.

In one particular, however, some of these independent traders, who might, per-
haps, merit the contemptuous title of adventurers bestowed upon them all by their
rivals, were guilty of conduct very reprehensible when viewed from a certain stand-
point. Caring only for present profits and heedless of the effect of their conduct upon
the future of their trade, they supplied the Indians with whisky and fire-arms.
Upon the first glance it would seem that, as the Indians were chiefly depended upon to
provide the furs, any addition made to their facilities for accomplishing this would be
beneficial to the business and that the giving of guns to them would result in an in-
crease of the trade ; but the opposite was the case. Irving says : " In this way several
fierce tribes in the vicinity of the Kussiau posts, or within range of their trading ex-
cursions, were furnished with deadly means of warfare, and rendered troublesome and
dangerous neighbors." The fact is that the Russian intercourse with the natives was
often marked by conduct so illiberal and heartlessly cruel that it is no wonder they
objected to their victims being supplied with means of asserting their rights. Repre-
sentations were made by the Russian government to the United States of this objection-
able conduct of American traders, but since no law or treaty was infringed the govern-
ment could do nothing. It, however, applied to John Jacob Astor, a merchant of New
York, who had long been engaged in the fur trade about the lakes and headwaters of
the Mississippi, to see if he could not suggest a remedy.

Mr. Astor conceived the idea of establishing a post at the mouth of the Columbia,
from which the Russian traders could be supjilied annually by a vessel sent out from
New York, and which would be the headquarters for a large trade with the interior.
By this systematic conduct of the business he expected to supersede the independent
traders, remove the cause of irritation to Russia, and found permanent establishments
of the United States along the Columbia. Mr. Astor imparted his idea to the presi-
dent and cabinet, by whom it was heartily endorsed, and he was assured that all the
support and encouragement would be his which the government could properly offer.
President Jefferson had, as we have seen, always been a warm advocate of American
supremacy in this region, and in a letter written in later years to Mr. Astor, said : " I
considered, as a great public acquisition, the commencement of a settlement on that
part of the western coast of America, and looked forward with gratification to the time
when its descendants should have spread themselves through the whole length of that
coast, covering it with free and independent Americans, unconnected with us but by
the ties of blood and interest, and enjoying like us the rights of self-government."
Grand as was that great statesman's conception of the destiny of this coast, it is trans-
cended by actual, living reality. Not only the " ties of blood and interest," but of
national union and loyal brotherhood, bind together the Atlantic and Pacific coasts,
while the great interior wilderness has now become more potent as a bond of union to
hold them together, than it then was as a barrier to keep them apart.

OREGON. 95

Mr. Astor associated with himself as managing partners .several experienced men,
some of whom had formerly been connected with the Northwest Company. This was
a very unwise, and, as it afterwards proved, an unfortunate step. These men were
thoroughly competent to manage the details of the business, being energetic and able
men and completely familiar with the management of the successful English company ;
but they were subjects of Great Britain, their interests and instincis were British, and
in forming an American settlement none but Americans should have been i)laced in
command. AVashingtou's injunction to "put none but Americans on guard," should
have been borne in mind. These men made no pretense of Americanizing themselves
or transferring their allegiance ; on the contrary they took the precaution to ijrovide
tliemselves before leaving Canada with proofs of their British citizenship, to be used
for their advantage in case of future difficulties between the two nations. These were
Alexander McKay, who had accompanied Mackenzie on both of his journeys, Duncan
^IcDougal, David and Robert Stuai't, and Donald McKenzie. Wilson Price Hunt, of
New Jersey, the only American at first interested as a partner, was given the chief
direction of the enterprise on the Pacific coast. Mr. Astor owned a half interest in
tlie enterprise and furnished the capital, while the other half was divided among the
four partners, who managed the details of the work in the field. These gentlemen in-
corporated as the Pacific Fur Company, with Mr. Astor as president.

On the second of August, 1810, the ship Tonquin sailed for the mouth of the
Cohiinljia. She carried ten guns, had a crew of twenty men and was under the com-
mand of Jonathan Thorn, a lieutenant of the United States navy, on leave of absence.
She carried a large cargo of supplies and merchandize for trading with the natives,
the frame of a small schooner designed for use along the coast, and seeds and imple-
ments for the cultivation of the soil. In tlie Tonquin sailed four of the partners,
McKay, McDougal, David Stuart and Rol)ert Stuart, twelve clerks, several artisans
and thirteen Canadian voyageurs.

The voyajreurs wei'e a special outgrowtli of the fur trade and are deserving of
more than a passing notice. Irving thus describes them: "The voyageurs may be said
to have sprung up out of the fur trade, having originally been employed by the early
Frencli merchants in their trading expeditions tlirough the labyrinth of rivers and
lakes of the boundless interior. In the intervals of their long, arduous, and lal)orious
expeditions they were wont to pass their time in idleness and revelry about the trading
])Osts or settlements : squandering their hard earnings in Iieedless conviviality, and ri-
valling their neighbors, the Indians, in indolent indulgence and an imprudent disre-
gard of the morrow. M^hen Canada passed under British domination, and the old
French trading houses were broken up, the voyageurs were for a time disheartened and
disconsolate, and with difficulty could reconcile themselves to theserviceof the newcomers,
so different in habits, manners and language from their former employers. By degrees,
however, they became accustomed to the change, and at length came to consider the
British fur traders, and especially the members of the Northwest Company, as the le-
gitimate lords of creation. The dress of these people is generally half civilized,
half savage. They wear a capot or surcoat, made of a blanket, a striped cotton shirt,
cloth trowsers, or leathern leggings, moccasins of deer skin, and a l)elt of variegated
worsted, from which are suspended the knife, tobacco pouch, and other implements.

96 OREGON.

Their language is of the same piebald eliai-actei-, being a French patois, embroidered
with Indian and English words and phrases. The lives of the voyageurs are passed
in wild and extensive rovings. They are generally of French descent and inherit
much of the gaiety and lightness of heart of their ancestors, being full of anecdote
and song, and ever ready for the dance. Their natural good will is probably height-
ened by a community of adventure and hardship in their precarious and wandering
life. They are dexterous boatmen, vigorous and adroit with the oar and paddle, and
will row from morning until night without a murmur. The steersman often sings an
old traditionary French song, with some regular burden in which they all join, keep-
ing time with their oars. In the course of years they will gradually disappear ; their
songs will die away like the echoes they once awakened, and the Canadian voyageurs
will become a forgotten race, or remembered among the poetical images of past times
and as themes for local and romantic associations."

The Tonquin reached the mouth of the Columbia on the twenty-second of [Nlarcli,
1811, much jealousy and ill-feeling having been engendered during the voyage be-
tween the commander and the Scotch partners. Captain Thorn was a martinet, a
strict disciplinarian, with a high opinion of the power and dignity of the commander
of a vessel. He was headstrong and stubborn in the extreme. When the ship arrived
at the river the bar was very rough, and the captain feared to enter until the location
of the channel was ascertained. He ordered Mr. Fox, the chief mate, to take one
seaman and three Canadians in a whale boat and explore the channel, and though the
mate protested that it was certain death to attempt it, he insisted upon obedience to his
orders. The boat left the ship and was soon swallowed up in the angry billows. The
next dav he sent out another crew to seek the channel, and their boat was swept out to
sea bv the tide and current, only one of the crew finally reaching land. The vessel
succeeded in getting just inside of the bar when darkness came on and she was com-
pelled to cast anchor for the night, while the ebbing tide threatened to sweep her from
her precarious hold upon the sand and swamp her amid the breakers. Irving says :
" The wind whistled, the sea roared, the gloom was only broken by the ghastly glare
of the foaming breakers, the minds of the seamen were full of dreary apprehensions,
and some of them fancied they heard the cries of their lost comrades mingling with
the upi-oar of the elements."

In the morning the Tonquin passed safely into the river and came to anchor in a
secure harbor. On the twelfth of April, a point on the south side of the river which
Broughton had called Point George having been selected, the erection of a fort and
buildings was begun ; and on that spot, which was then christened Astoria in honor of
the projector of the enterprise, now stands one of the most important commercial and
manufacturing cities of the Pacific coast. After much delay in preparing a place for
the reception of the goods and in landing those to be left at Astoria, during which the
captain and partners constantly wrangled about their authority, and before the fort
was completed, the Tonquin sailed, on the fifth of June, to engage in trade with the na-
tives along the northern coast, and eventually to reach the Russian settlements in
Alaska, with the hope of opening a friendly communication with them.

The Tonquin anchored in a small harbor on Vancouver island, and Alexander
McKay, one of the partners, landed upon the island. During his absence the vessel

i

OREGON. 97

wa< s^un'oiuided by a host of savages in their canoes, who soou swarmed upon the decks.
They were eager to trade, but had evidently had considerable experience in dealing
Avith the whites and were well posted upon the value of their furs, for they resolutely
demanded a higher price than Captain Thorn was willing to pay. Provoked beyond
measure at their stubbornness, Thorn refused to deal with them, whereupon they be-
came exceedingly insolent. The captain at last completely tost his temper, and seizing
the old chief, Nookamis, who was following him about and taunting him with his
stinginess, rubbed in his face an otter skin he had been endeavoring to sell. He then
ordered the whole band to leave the ship and added blows to enforce his command.
The tragic ending of this adventure is thus related by Irving :

" When Mr. M'Kay returned on board, the interpreter related what had passed,
and begged him to prevail upon the captain to make sail, as, from his knowledge of
the temj^er and pride of the people of the jjlace, he was sure they would resent the
indignity offered to one of their chiefs. Mr. M'Kay, who himself possessed some ex-
perience of Indian character, went to the captain, who was still pacing the deck in
moody humor, rejiresented the danger to which his hasty act had exposed the vessel,
and urged upon him to weigh anchor The captain made light of his councils, and
pointed to his cannon and fire-arms as a sufficient safe-guard against naked savages.
Further remonstrances only ^^rovoked taunting replies and sharp altercations. The
day passed away without any signs of hostility, and at night the caj)tain retired, as
usual, to his cabin, taking no more than the usual precautions. On the following
morning, at day -break, while the captain and Mr. M'Kay were yet asleej), a canoe came
alongside in which were twenty Indians, commanded by young Shewish. They were
unarmed, their aspect and demeanor friendly, and they held up otter skins, and made
signs indicative of a wish to trade. The caution enjoined by Mr. Astor in respect to
the admission of Indians on board of the ship, had been neglected for some time past,
and the officer of the watch, perceiving those in the canoes to be without weapons, and
having received no orders to the contrary, readily permitted them to mount the deck.
Another canoe soon succeeded, the crew of which was likewise admitted. In a little
while other canoes came off, and Indians were soon clambering into the vessel on all
sides.

" The officer of the watch now felt alarmed, and called to C'a])tain Thorn and Mr.
M'Kay. By the time they came on deck, it was thronged with Indians. The inter-
))reter noticed to Mr. M'Kay that many of the natives wore short mantles of skins,
and intimated a suspicion that they were secretly armed. Mr. M'Kay urged the cap-
tain to clear the ship and get under way. He again made light of the advice ; but
the augmented swarm of canoes about the ship, and the numbers still j)utting off from
shore, at length awakened his distrust, and he ordered some of the crew to weigh an-
cIkii'. while some were sent aloft to make sail. The Indians now offered to trade with
I he caj)tain on his own terms, prompted, apparently, by the approaching departure of
tlie ship. ^Vccordingly, a hurried trade was commenced. The main articles sought
by the savages in barter, were knives; as fast as some were supplied they moved off
and others succeeded. By degrees they were thus distributed about the deck, and all
with weapons. The anchor was now nearly up, the sails were loose, and the cajitain,
in a loud and ]icremptin-y tone, ordered the ship to be cleared. In an instant a signal

veil wa8 given ; it Avas echoed on every .side, knives and war clnbs were brandished in
every direction, and the savages rushed upon their marked victims.

" The first that fell was Mr. Lewis, the shij/s clerk. He was leaning, with folded
arms, over a bale of blankets, engaged in bargaining, when he received a deadly stab
in the back, and fell down the comj^anionway. Mr. M'Kay, who was seated on the
taffrail, sprang to his feet, but was instantly knocked down with a war-club and flung
backwards into the sea, where he was dispatched by the women in the canoes. In the
meantime, Captain Thorn made desperate fight against fearful odds. He was a pow-
erful as well as resolute man, but he had come upon deck Avithout weapons. Shewish,
the young chief, singled him out as his peculiar prey, and rushed upon him at the first
outbreak. The captain had barely time to draw a clasp-knife, with one blow of which
he laid the young savage dead at liis feet. Several of the stoutest followers of Shewish
now set upon him. He defended himself vigorously, dealing crippling blows to right
and left, and strewing the quarterdeck with the slain and wounded. His object was
to fight his way to the cabin, where there were fire-arms ; but he was hemmed in with
foes, covered with wounds, and faint with loss of blood. For an instant he leaned upon
the tiller wheel, when a blow from behind, with a war-club, felled him to the deck,
where he was disjmtched with knives and thrown overboard.

" While this was transacting upon the quarterdeck, a chance medley fight was
going on throughout the ship. The crew fought desperately with knives, handspikes
and whatever weapons they could seize upon in the moment of surprise. They were
soon, however, overpowered by numbers and mercilessly butchered. As to the seven
who had been sent aloft to make sail, they contemplated with horror the carnage that
was going on below. Being destitute of weapons, they let themselves down by the
running rigging, in hopes of getting between decks. One fell in the attempt, and was
instantly dispatched ; another received a death-blow in the back as he was descending;
a third, Stephen Weekes, the armorer, was mortally wounded as he was getting down
the hatchway. The remaining four made good their retreat into the cabin, where they
found Mr. Lewis still alive, though mortally wounded. Barricading the cabin door,
they broke holes through the companionway, and, with muskets and ammunition which
were at hand, opened a brisk fire that soon cleared the deck. Thus far the Indian
interpreter, from whom these particulars are derived, had been an eye-witness of the
deadly conflict. He had taken no part in it and had been spared by the natives as
being of their race. In the confusion of the moment he took refuge with the rest, in
the canoes. The survivors of the crew now sallied forth and discharged some of
the deck guns, which did great execution among the canoes and drove all the savages
to shore.

"For the remainder of the day no one ventured to put off' to the ship, deterred by
the effects of the firearms. The night passed away without any further attempt on
the part of the natives. When the day dawned the Tonquin still lay at anchor in the
bay, her sails all loose and flapping in the wind, and no one apparently on board of
her. After a time, some of the canoes ventured forth to reconnoitre, taking with them
the interpreter. They paddled about her, keeping cautiously at a distance, but grow-
ing more and more emboldened at seeing her quiet and lifeless. One man at length
made his appearance on the deck and was recognized by the interpreter as Mr. Lewis.

He made friendly signs and invited them on board. It was long before they ventured
to comply. Those who mounted the deck met with no opposition ; no one was to be
seen on board, for Mr. Lewis, after inviting them, had disappeai-ed. Other canoes now
pressed forward to board the prize ; the decks were soon crowded and the sides cov-
ered with clambering savages, all intent on plunder. In the midst of their eagerness
and exultation, the ship blew np with a tremendous explosion. Arms, legs and muti-
lated bodies were blown into the air, and dreadful havoc was made in the surrounding
canoes. The interpreter was in the main chains at the time of the explosion, and wa.s
thrown unhurt into the water, where he succeeded in getting into one of the canoes.
According to his statement the bay presented an awful spectacle after the catastrojihe.
The ship had disappeared, but the bay was covered with fragments of the wreck, with
shattered canoes, and Indians swimming for their lives or struggling in the agonies of
death ; while those who had escaped the danger remained aghast and stupefied, or made
with frantic panic for the shore. Upwards of a hundred savages were destroyed by the
explosion, many more were shockingly mutilated, and for days afterwards the limbs
and bodies of the slain were thrown upon the beach.

"The inhabitants of Neweetee were overwhelmed with consternation at this as-
tounding calamity which had burst upon them in the very moment of triumph. The
warriors sat mute and mournful, while the women filled the air with loud lamentations.
Their weeping and wailing, however, was suddenly changed into yells of fury at the
sight of four unfortunate white men brought captive into the village. They had been
driven on shore in one of the ship's boats, and taken at some distance along the coast.
The interpreter was permitted to converse with them. They proved to be the four
brave fellows who had made such desperate defense from the cabin. The interpreter
gathered from them some of the particulars already related. They told him further
that, after they had beaten off the enemy, and cleared the ship, Lewis advised that
they should slip the cable and endeavor to get to sea. They declined to take his advice,
alleging that the wind set too strongly into the bay, and would drive them on .^hore.
They resolved, as soon as it was dark, to put off quietly in the ship's boat, which they
would be able to do unperceived, and to coast along back to Astoria. They put their
resolution into effect ; l)ut Lewis refused to accompany them, being disabled by his
wound, hopeless of escape and determined on a terrible revenge. On the voyage out
he had frequently expressed a presentiment that he should die by his own hands —
thinking it highly probable that he should be engaged in some contests with the na-
tives, and being resolved, in case of extremity, to commit suicide rather than be made
a prisoner. He now declared his intention to remain on the ship until daylight, to de-
coy as many of the savages on board as possible, then to set fire to the powder maga-
zine and terminate his life by a signal act of vengeance. How well he succeeded has
been shown. His companions bade him a melancholy adieu and set off on their pre-
carious expedition. They strove with might and main to get out of the bay, but found
it impossible to weather a point of land, and were at length compelled to take shelter
in a small cove, where they hoped to remain concealed until the wind should be more
favorable. Exhausted by fatigue and watching, they fell into a sound sleep, and in
that state were surprised by the savages. Better had it been for those unfortunate men
had they remained with Lewis and shared his heroic death ; as it was. they perished in

100 , OREGON.

a more painful and protracted manner, being sacrificed by the natives to the manes of
their friends with all the lingering tortures of savage cruelty. Some time after their
death the interpreter, who had remained a kind of j^visoner at large, effected his escape
and brought the tragical tidings to Astoria."

Meanwhile affairs were j^rogressing at Astoria. On the fifteenth of July tlie
partners were astonished by the appearance in the river of a canoe manned by nine
white men, who proved to be representatives of the Northwest Company, under the
leadership of David Thompson, a partner in that powerful organization. When the
company had learned the year before of the projected enterprise of Mr. Astor, it dis-
patched Mr. Thompson from Montreal with a large party to hasten across the conti-
nent and forestall the American trader by taking possession of the mouth of the Co-
lumbia. Many of his party had deserted him, and now after ruinous delay and with
but these few faithful ones to aid him, he had arrived at the goal of his journey too
late to accom^ilish his purpose. Thompson was received with great cordiality by jMr.
McDougal, the partner in charge at Astoria, who had a kindly feeling for all represen-
tatives of the Northwest Company ; and though he was but a spy upon his hosts, he
was bountifully supplied with provisions for his return journey. He set out upon his
return to Montreal on the twenty- third day of July, bearing a letter to Mr. Astor tt^ll-
ing of the safe arrival of the vessel, and accompanied by a party of nine, headed by
David Stuart, who w^ere instructed to establish a post on the uj^per Columbia. ^h\
Stuart selected a spot near the mouth of the Okinagan river, and establishing a post
there openad trade with the natives.

On the second of October the schooner was completed and launched. She was
named the Dolly, and was the third vessel built on the Northern Pacific coast, and the first
in the Columbia river. A few days later half of Stuart's party returned, having been
sent back for the winter because of a lack of jirovisions to subsist them. The winter
months were passed without fresh disasters flowing in ujdou them.

When the Tonquin sailed from New York Wilson P. Hunt was preparing to cross
overland with another party. He finally left St. Louis with a party of sixty men,
among whom were Donald McKenzie and three other ^^artners, Ramsey Crooks, Joseph
Miller and Robert McLellan. With them went John Day, a noted Kentucky hunter,
and Pierre Dorion, a French half-breed, to act as an interpreter. The party arrived at
Fort Henry, on Snake river, October 8, 1811. Small detachments were, from time to
time, sent out in the Rocky mountains to trap in various localities, who were to use
Fort Henry as a supply station, and for concentration with their furs. The remaining
members of the party, after a temporary halt, moved on down Snake river enroute for
the general rendezvous at the mouth of the Columbia ; and a continued succession of
hardships and disaster seemed to follow them. First, the unfortunate Antoine Clappin
was drowned in passing a rapid, then famine came to rob them of human instincts, as
they were led to the verge of starvation. They were finally forced to separate into
small detachments, one party going under Ramsey Crooks, another with Donald Mc-
Kenzie for leader, while a third remained with Mr. Hunt, hoping by such division to
increase their chances of finally reaching the Columbia.

Once the parties under Crooks and Hunt camped with the narrow, deep waters of
Snake river only separating them. The Hunt iwrty had killed a horse and were

4^*^ /

\

i\

%^/.

i

OREGON. 101

cooking it, while their starving companions on the opposite side of the stream, with no
means of crossing it, were forced to look on as they starved. Not a man in Mr. Hnnt's
camp would make an effort to send them food, until the arrival of Mr. Crooks, who,
discovering the condition of his men on the opposite side, called to the forlorn band to
start fires for cooking, that no time might be lost while he constructed a canoe out of
skins, in which to take meat across to them. In vain he tried to shame the more for-
tunate into helping to succor their fkmishing companions, but : " A vague, and almost
superstitious terror," says Irving, " had infected the minds of Mr. Hunt's followers,
enfeebled and rendered imaginative of horrors by the dismal scenes and sufferings
through which they had passed. They regarded the haggard crew, hovering like
spectres of famine on the opposite bank, with indefinite feelings of awe and apprehen-
sion, as if something desperate and dangerous was to be feared from them."

When the canoe was finished, Mr. Crooks attempted to navigate the impetuous
stream witli it, but found his strength unequal to the task, and failing to reach his
companions on the o})posite bank, made another appeal to Hunt's men. Finally, a
Kentuckian, named Ben Jones, undertook and made the passage, conveying meat to
them, and then came back. Irving, in describing the sad scene, says : " A poor Cana-
dian, however, named Jean Baptiste Prevost, whom famine had rendered wild and
desperate, ran frantically about the banks, after Jones had returned, crying out to Mr.
Hunt to send the canoe for him, and take him from that horrible region of famine, de-
claring that otherwise he would never march another step, but would lie down there
and die. The canoe was shortly sent over again, under the management of Joseph
Delaunay, with fiirther sup))lies. Prevost immediately pressed forward to embark.
Delaunay refused to admit him, telling him that there was now a sufficient supply of
meat on his side of the ri\er. He replied that it was not cooked, and he should starve
before it was ready ; he implored, therefore, to be taken where he could get something
to appease his hunger immediately. Finding the canoe putting ofi:' without him, he
forced himself aboard. As he drew near the opposite shore, and beheld meat roasting
before the fires, he jumped up, shouted, clapped his hands, and danced in a delirium
of joy, until he upset the canoe. The poor wretch was swept away by the current and
drowned, and it was with extreme difficulty that Delaunay reached the shore. !Mr.
Hunt now sent all his men forward excepting two or three. In the evening, he caused
another horse to be killed, and a canoe to be made out of the skin, in which he sent
over a further supply of meat to the opposite party. The canoe brought back John
Day, the Kentucky hunter, who came to join his former commander and employer,
]\Ir. Crooks. Poor Day, once so active and vigorous, was now reduced to a condition
even more feeble and emaciated than his companions. Mr. Crooks had such a value
for the man, on account of his past services and faithful charactei', that he determined
not to quit him ; he exhorted Mr. Hunt, however, to jjroceed forward and join the
party, as his presence was all important to the conduct of the expedition. One of the
Canadians, Jean Baptiste Dubreuil, likewise remained with Mr. Crooks."

The occurrences at this starvation camp were on the twentieth of Deceiid)i'r, 1811,
both parties being on tlicii' way back up Snake river after having fouixi the descent of
tiiat stream impossible. It was now tlieii' intention to stiike across the couiitrv for tiie
Coluiiiliia, as soon as it was j)raeticab]e to do so. ( )n tlie twcntv-tliinl of Deeeinlier,

102 OREGON.

Mr. Hunt's followers crossed to the west side of the stream, where they were joined l)y
Crooks' men, who were already there. The two parties, when united, numbered thirty-
six souls, and on the next day they turned from the river into a trackless country; but,
before starting, three more of their number had concluded to remain among the sav-
ages rather than face the hardshijjs and trials that lay before them. December 28,
1811, the head waters of Grand Eonde river were reached, and the last day of that
year found them camped in the valley of that name. Through all their perils and
wanderings since leaving St. Louis, one woman, the Indian wife of Pierre Dorion, a
guide, interpreter and trapper, had accompanied them, bringing with her two children,
and, as the party entered the Grand Ronde valley, she gave birth to another. Tlie
next day she continued the journey on horseback as though nothing had happened,
but the little stranger only lived six days.

Mr. Hunt, after halting one or two days to enable his followers to celebrate, in
their forlorn w^ay, the advent of a new year that had presented to them the Grand
Ronde valley, a kind of winter paradise in the mountains, continued his course to the
west. The Blue mountain ridge was passed, and January 8, 1812, an Indian village
on the Umatilla river close to the mountains was reached, where they were hospitably
received. From there their route was down this stream to the Columbia river, thence
to the mouth of the latter, arriving at Astoria February 15, 1812.

Since leaving Fort Henry, October 19, 1811, out of Mr. Hunt's party, two men
had been drowned on Snake river, and poor Michael Carriere, when exhausted, had
straggled behind in Grand Ronde valley and was never heard from afterwards. Ram-
sev Crooks, John Day and four Canadian voyageurs, had been left half dead on Snake
river to remain in the Indian country, die, or reach the Columbia as they best could.
Eleven men, among whom were Donald McKenzie, Robert McLellan and the unfortu-
nate John Reed, had been detached on Snake river, and following that stream until its
waters mingled with the Columbia, had reached Astoria a month in advance of Mr.
Hunt. Mr. Stuart, when returning from his post on the Okinagan, during the first
days of April, found Mr. Crooks and John Day on the banks of the Columbia river
without w^eapons, nearly starved, and as naked as when born, having been robbed and
stripped by the Dalles Indians. They had wintered in the Blue mountains al)out
Grand Ronde valley, and had reached the Walla Wallas in the spring, who had fed,
succored, and sent them on their way rejoicing down the river. When found, they
were making their way back to these early friends of the Americans, who never failed
to assist our people when in trouble. At length all but three of those starting from
the head waters of Snake river for Astoria had reached that place except the four
voyageurs, and later they, too, were found by a return party. On the ninth of May,
after Mr. Hunt's arrival, the ship Beaver, with reinforcements and supplies, anchored
at Astoria, and the Pacific Fur Company was in condition to enter upon a vigorous fur
gathering campaign.

Mr. Hunt, who was at the head of affairs, set out in July for Alaska to fulfill the
mission upon which the ill-fated Tonquin had sailed, and his departure left Duncan
McDougal in charge. Prior to this, however, the various expeditions to trap waters
and trade with natives between the Rocky and Cascade mountains had started, sixty-
two strong, up the Columbia. Among the number was the unfortunate John Day,

OEEGON. 103

and, as tlu' party apiiroaclicd the scenes of his former sufferings liis mind became
delirious, and tlie mere sight of an Indian wouUl throw him into u frenzy of passion.
He finally attempted his own life, but was prevented from taking it, after which a con-
stant guard was kept over him. It was at length determined to send him back to
Astoria, and being placed in charge of two Indians, he was delivered by them at the
fort where he died in less than a year. His old compeers ami staunch friends, who
had shared perils and privations with him, were forced to continue their journey with
a^ sad memory of this companion, whose brain had been shattered by his many mis-
fortunes. The stream wliich had witnessed his many sufferings still bears the heroic
trapper's name.

The arrival of trappers at the present site of Wallnla, on the twenty-eighth of
July, 1812, was the signal for general rejoicing among the friendly Walla Wallas, who
greeted them with bonfires, and a night dance, in which they sang the praises of
their white friends. Here the four expeditions were to separate, Robert Stuart to
cross the continent by Hunt's route ; David Stuart to go up the Columbia to Okina-
gan ; Donald IMcKenzie to establish a post in the Nez Perce country ; and John Clarke
to locate one among the Spokane Indians. Of these several expeditions, Robert Stuart,
with his party, including Crooks and McLellan, reached St. Louis eleven months later,
bearing news to Mr. Astor of his enterprise on the Pacific coast. McKenzie's opera-
tions were a failure ; David Stuart's success was equal to his most sanguine hopes, and
Mr. Clarke's efforts resulted second only to those of Mr. Stuart.

(_)n the twenty-fifth of ]\Iay, 1813, Mr. Clarke started from his post on the Spo-
kane to reach the Walla Walla, the place agreed upon as a general rendezvous, where
the different expeditions were to meet and return to Astoria with the furs obtained in
their operations during the past season. On his way up, Mr. Clarke had left his
canoes in charge of a Palouse chief, living at the mouth of the river of that name,
with whom he found them on his return. He had twenty-eight horse packs of furs,
and all his men were in high spirits because of the success that had attended their
year's work. While stopping at the mouth of this stream to repair their canoes, in
which to embark upon the river, an incident happened that cannot well be passed in
silence.

Mr. Clarke was a strong disciplinarian, something of an aristocrat, and disjiosed to
inpresss those with whoni he came in contact with the dignity of liis presence and per-
son. He Avas in the habit of carrying a silver goblet to drink from, and its glittering
presence, carefully guarded by its possessor, became an object of strange and strong
attraction to the superstitious Indians. In all their land, no such wondrous device had
been seen before. They talked to each other concerning it, watched its appearance,
and the care with which its lucky possessor laid it away after using. Possibly it was a
great medicine, like the spotted shirt and the white (juilt among the Coeur d'Alenes, or
a powerful talisman to ward off danger or shield its owner from harm, a sort of ark
near which the great Manitou dwelt. One night it disappeared, and Mr. Clarke was
enraged. He threatened to hang the first Indian detected in stealing, and the next
night an uiifoi-tuiiate one was caught in the act. A hasty trial followed, and the
]irisonci' was condemned to die, when ^Ir. ( 'lai-ke made the assembled savages a speech.
He recounted the numei-ous oifts that had been bestowed, the benefit the white man's

104 OREGON.

presence had been to their peo])!^, and then, upbraiding them for thefts, told the
Indians that he shoukl kill the thief he had captured with pilfered goods. The old
chief and his followers besought him to not do this. They were willing that he shoukl
be punished severely, and then let go, but the traj^i^er was inexorable, and the ^^oor
groveling wretch was dragged to a temjwrary scaifold, constructed from oars, and was
launched into eternity. The other partners of the Pacific Fur Company were unanimous
in condemning this act, and Gabriel Franchere, who was one of the company clerks,
wrote concerning the killing of the unfortunate John Reed and his party by Indians
the ensuing winter : " We had no doubt that his massacre was an act of vengeance,
on the part of the natives, in retaliation for the death of one of their people, whom Mr.
John Clarke had hanged for theft the spring before." Immediately after this hanging
the party embarked for the mouth of the Walla Walla, where Stuart and McKenzie
were waiting, and from this point they all continued their way down the river, arriving
at Astoria, June 12, 1813.

Upon re-assembling at headquarters, the return expeditions found that, upon the
whole, it had been a successful year's labor, that the peltry brought in, amounting to
157 packs, if sold at market rates in Canton, would pay well for the time spent, and
reimburse them for local losses. In addition to this, they had become well established
in the fur producing regions, and the outlook was very encouraging except for one
thing. War had been raging between Great Britain and the United States for over a
year, and they had recently become aware of this fact.

On their arrival at Astoria, J. G. McTavish with nineteen men was found camped
near by, awaiting the appearance of a vessel called the Isaac Todd, sent by the North-
west Comjiany with stores for them, with letters of marque, and instructions from the
British government to destroy everything American found on the Pacific coast. This
latter fact was unknown at Astoria at the time, however, but the non-arrival of supplies
by sea, combined with the unfavorable news of British success in arms, led the partners
to fear that none whatever would reach them. They, consequently, determined to
abandon the country, and start on their return overland the ensuing year, if their mis-
givings proved well founded. They sold their Spokane fort to McTavish for $848,
and then furnished that gentleman with j^rovisious to enable him to return to the
upper country ; and, in July, they visited the interior themselves to gather what furs
they could -before taking final leave of the country.

Three months later, McTavish returned to Astoria witli a force of seventy-five men
for the purpose of meeting the vessel that had caused his former visit, bringing, also,
the news that her coming to the Columbia was for the purpose of capturing Astoria,
and to assist the Northwest Company in gainmg ascendancy on the coast. He offered
to buy the furs of the Astoriaus, and, on the sixteenth of October, 1813, a transfer of
the entire stock, worth at least $100,000, was made for less than $40,000. Two months
later, on December 12, the fort was surrendered to the English under cunnnand of a
naval officer. Captain Black of the Raccoon, when the American flag was lowered to
give the British colors place, and the name of Astoria was changed to Fort George. An
amusing incident of this transfer is related by John Ross Cox. " The Indians, at the
mouth of the Columbia, knew well that Great Britain and America were distinct nations,
and that they were then at war, but were ignorant of the arrangement made between

I

OREGON. 105

Messrs. MrDougal and McTavish, the former of whom still coiitiuueil as nominal chief
at the fort. On the arrival of the Raccoon, which they quickly discovered to be one of
* King George's fighting ships,' they repaired, armed, to the fort, and requested an
audience of Mr. McDougal. He was somewhat surprised at their numbers and war-
like ajipearance, and demanded the object of such an unusual visit. Concomly, the
principal chief of the Chinooks, (whose daughter McDougal had married,) thereupon
addressed him in a long speech, in the course of which he said that King George had
sent a ship full of warriors, and loaded with nothing but big guns, to take the Ameri-
cans and make them all slaves, and that, as they (the Americans) were the first white
men who settled in their country, and treated the Indians like good relations, they had
resolved to defend them from King George's warriors, and were now ready to conceal
themselves in the woods close to the wharf, from whence they would be able, with their
guns and arrows, to shoot all the men that should attempt to land from the English
boats, -while the people in the fort could fire at them with their big guns and rifles.
This proposition was uttered with an earnestness of manner that admitted no doubt of
its sincerity. Two armed boats from the Raccoon were approaching ; and, had the
peoijle in the fort felt disposed to accede to the wishes of the Indians, every man in
them would have been destroyed by an invisible enemy. Mr. McDougal thanked them
for their friendly offer, but added, that, notwithstanding the nations were at war, the
people in. the boats would not injure him or any of his people, and therefore requested
them to throw by their war shirts and arms, and receive the strangers as their friends.
They at first seemed astonished at this answer ; but, on assuring them, in the most pos-
itive manner, that he was under no apprehension, they consented to give up their
weapons for a few days. They afterwards declared they were sorry for having complied
with Mr. McDougal's wishes ; for when they observed Captain Black, surrounded by
his ofiieers and marines, break the bottle of port on the flag -staff, and hoist the British
ensign, after changing the name of the fort, they remarked that however he might wish
to conceal the fact, the Americans were undoubtedly made slaves."

Seventy-eight days after the surrender of Astoria to the British, Mr. Hunt
arrived at that fort in the brig Pedlar, and judge of his astonishment, to learn that
McDougal was a partner no longer of the Pacific, but of the Northwest Company;
that he held possession not under the American, but under the English flag ; and that
all in which Mr. Hunt was interested on this coast had passed, without a struggle,
through treachery, into the hands of his country's enemies. Mr. Hunt, finally, secured
the papers pertaining to business transactions of the Pacific Fur Company from Mc-
Dougal, and then sailed, April 3, 1814, from the shore that had seemed to yield only
misfortune and disaster in return for the efforts of himself, and those with whom he
was associated. The next day, David Stuart, McKenzie, John Clarke and eighty-five
other members and employes of the Pacific Fur Company started up the Columbia
river in their boats on their way across the continent, and while passing AVallula,
learned from the widow of Pierre Dorion, of the massacre of John Reed and his eight
associates, among the Snake Indians near Fort Henrv.

CHAPTER XIV.

JOINT OCCUPATION OF OREGON.

The Russian Settlements— They Establish Themselves at Bodega Bay— Treaty of Ghent Restoration to the
United States of Astoria, or Fort George- Treaty of Joint Occupancy in 1818— The Florida Treaty of
1819 -Fierce Rivalry between the Hudson's Bay and Northwest Corapanies-The War on Red River— Consoli-
dation of the Rival Companies — Description of the Hudson's Bay Company.

During the years that had elapsed since the Russian American Trading Com-
pany was chartered, that organization had become exceedingly powerful, establishing
many posts on the Alaskan coast and carrying on the fur trade in a systematic and
successful manner. In 1799 a settlement was made on King George III. archipelago
near Mount Edgeeumb, near the 56th parallel. This was destroyed by the natives in
1803, and was rebuilt in 1805, and was then called New Archangel of Sitka. This
became the capital of Russian America and so remained until Alaska was j)urchased
by the United States. This was the most southerly settlement at that time, but in
1806 preparations were made to occupy tlie mouth of the Columbia, which was con-
sidered by the company to be embraced within the limits of the country over which
their monopoly charter from the czar extended. The execution of this project was
deferred for a time, and, as we have seen, was in a few years rendered impossible
because of prior possession of the Americans and English. In 1812 the governor of
the company, whose headquarters were at Sitka, requested and received permission of
the Spanish governor of California to leave a few men on the shore of Bodega bay, a
few miles north of Yerba Buena (San Francisco) for the purpose of preparing meat
and supplies for their j50sts in the north. In a few years this little station had become
a fortified settlement, and the governor's request and peremptory order to vacate were
treated with contempt ; nor were they ever driven from their post, but abandoned it in
1840 at the request of the United States government. During the years of their
occujjaney many voyages of trade and exijloration were made, some of them at the
expense of much suflTering and many lives, adding materially to the geographical
knowledge of the upper portion of the Pacific and the Arctic ocean above Siberia and
about Behring's strait.

The treaty of Ghent, which ended the war of 1812, provided that " all territory,
places, and possessions, whatsoever, taken by either j)arty from the other during the
war, or which may be taken after the signing of this treaty, shall be restored without
delay." It failed, however, because the commissioners could not agree, to define a
dividing line between the American territory of Louisiana and the possessions of the
British, west of the Lake of the Woods. In pursuance of this treaty, Mr. Astor, who
was eager to recover possession of Astoria and resume his trading operations in the
Pacific, applied to the president for restitution of his property. The minister of Great

Britain at Washington was accordingly notified in Jnly, 181.3, that tlie United States
would at once reoccupy the captured fort at the mouth of the Columbia ; Init no ap-
parent notice was taken of this by the English government. It was not until Septem-
ber, 1817, that actual steps were taken to carry into eifect this resolution, and then the
sloop of war Ontario was dispatched on this errand, the captain, J. Biddle, and J. B
Prevost, his associate commissioner, being instructed to assert the claim of the United
States to the sovereignty of the country adjacent to the C'oluml)ia, l)ut to do so in a-
friendly and peaceable manner.

Soon after the departure of the Ontario the representative of Great Britain offi-
cially inquired of Secretary Adams the destination and object of the vessel, and was
informed that it was directed to take possession of the post at the mouth of the Colum-
bia, which, since no attention had been paid to the notification of two years before, it
had been assumed Great Britain had no idea of claiming as rightfully hers. This was
answered by saying that the post had been purchased by the Northwest Company,
subjects of his majesty, from private individuals, and as it was situated in a region
which that company had long occupied it was considered as forming a portion of his
majesty's dominions. Much controversy was carried on between the two governments
on the questions of abstract right and actual possession. It was finally agreed that the
post should be restored to the United States but its property should still belong to its
l^urchasers, while the right of dominion over the country should be left for future nego-
tiation. The Ontario arrived at Valparaiso in February, 1818, where Mr. Prevost
landed to transact official business with the Chilean government. Captain Biddle con-
tinued to the Columbia, sailing into that stream in the month of August and taking-
formal possession of the surrounding country in the name of the United States. He
then departed for other portions of the Pacific. In the meantime Captain Sheriff, of
the English navy, having orders to deliver up Fort George, met Mr. Prevost in Chili
and offered him passage to the Columbia for that purpose in the frigate Blossom.
They entered the river early in October, when Mr. Keith, the gentleman in charge
surrendered possession, having been instructed to that effect by the officers of the com-
pany. A paper was given to Mr. Prevost setting forth the fact that, in pursuance of
orders from the government, Fort George, on the Columbia river, Avas surrendered to
him as the representative of the United States, and he in return gave the officers a
written acceptance of the transfer. The British flag was then lowered and the Amer-
ican ensign was temjiorarily displayed over the walls of Fort George, Avhile it was
courteously saluted by the guns of the Blossom. Thus the matter stood, the Ameri-
cans nominally and the British actually in possession of Oregon.

During the time the Northwest Company had occupied this post many improve-
ments had been made, so that the Fort George of 1818 was far different from the
Astoria of five years before. A stockade of pine logs, twelve feet high above the
ground, enclosed a imrallelogram of 150x250 feet, within which were dwellings, store-
houses, magazines, shops, etc., all defended by two eightecn-pounders, six six-pounders,
four four-pound carronades, two six-pound cohorns, and seven swivels, armament
sufficient for a strong fort in those days. The population consisted of twenty-three
whites, twenty-six Kanakas and sixteen Canadian half-breeds. The comi^any was not
disturbed in the possession of this important post, and ^Iv. Astor was finally compelled

108 OEEGON.

to abandon all hoj^e of recoveriug his property through the action of the government,
and not deeming it advisable to found a rival establishment, was reluctantly compelled
to abandon his projects in the Pacific altogether.

Negotiations still continued between the two governments during these transac-
tions of their agents, and on the twentieth of October, 1818, a treaty of compromise
was signed, providing that all territories and their waters west of the Rocky mountains
should be free and open to the vessels and to the use and occupation of the citizens
and subjects of both nations for the period of ten years, and that no claim of either
party should in any manner be prejudiced by this action, and that neither should gain
any right of dominion by such use or occupation during the time specified. On the
twenty-second of February, 1819, a treaty was concluded between the United States
and Spain, generally known as the Florida treaty, by which Spain ceded to the
United States her province of Florida and all her rights, claims and pretensions to
anv territories north and east of a line drawn from the source of the Arkansas north
to the 42d parallel and thence west to the Pacific. The 42d parallel remained the
boundary between the United States and Mexico until Texas, then California, and still
later New Mexico and Arizona were conquered or purchased by the former, and was
considered the southern boundary of Oregon.

Fierce rivalry had existed for many jearti between the Hudson's Bay Comj^any
and its energetic competitor. The despised rival had grown in wealth and power until
the Northwest Company, though not protected by royal charter and not having vast terri-
tories over which to exercise the right of dominion, had become an organization even
more wealthy and powerful than the chartered monoi:)oly. In the plenitude of its
power it gave employment to 2,000 voyageurs, while its agents penetrated the wilder-
ness in all directions in search of furs. The Hudson's Bay Company had confined
itself to its granted territory, and had not even explored that with enlightened energy,
their method of conducting the business being to build a few j)osts at central jJoints, to
which the Indians re23aired for purposes of trade. On the contrary, it w'as the policy
of the rival organization to send its agents far and wide, to trade with the natives and
open up new fields of operation. This aggressive policy soon had the effect of arousing
the old comjiany to a realizing sense of the precarious condition of its affairs, and the
necessity for taking energetic steps to recover the ground it was rapidly losing. The
result of the rivalry, growing chiefly out of the improvident methods of the Northwest
Company, was so alarming a decrease in the fur-bearing animals as to threaten their
complete extinction. A systematic effort was made to crush the old company, or to at
least drive its representatives from the most valuable lieaver country, with the hope of
finally compelling a surrender of its charter.

The first act of actual hostility, other than mere trade rivalry, was committed in
1806, when a trader of the Hudson's Bay Company was forcibly deprived of 480 packs
of beaver skins, and a few months later of fifty more. The same year another trader
was attacked and robbed of valuable furs by servants of the Northwest Company, and
received similar treatment again the following spring. These acts of plundering were
numerous, and since no law but the law of might existed in the wilderness, there was
no redress for the despoiled company nor punishment for the offenders, since the latter
were Canadians and their victims citizens of England and not possessed of facilities

Philip Ua Motta's dARBER Shop.
U.S. Signal Service Office, upstairs.
ROSEBURG.

OREGON. 103

for .securing redress in the courts of Canada. In twelve years l)ut one case was l^rouglit
to trial, in 1809, wdien a Hudson's Bay Company man was convicted of manslaughter
for killing an agent of the other company who was making an attack upon him with a
sword ; and this result was accomplished by the powerful influence of the Northwest
Company in Montreal.

In 1812, having received a grant of fertile laud from the Hudson's Bay Com2)any,
Lord Selkirk, a man of energy and an enthusiast on the subject of colonial emigration,
commenced a settlement on Red river near its junction with the Assiniboine, south of
Lake Winnipeg. No sooner was this accomplished than the rival company expressed
a determination to destroy the settlement, and in the autumn of 1814 fitted out atf ex-
pedition for that purpose at its chief establishment. Fort William, on the shore of Lake
Superior. After harrassing the settlement for some months, an attack was made upon
it in June, 1815, which was reixdsed. Artillery having been brought up, the buildings
of Fort Gibraltar, the strong hold of the settlement, were battered dow^n and the place
captured. The governor was sent to Montreal a prisoner, the remainder of the settlers
were expelled from the country, the cattle were slaughtered and the buildings demol-
ished. In the fall, however the colonists returned with a great accession to their num-
bers and again established themselves under the leadership of Colin Eobertson, being-
accompanied by Robert Semple, governor of the Hudson's Bay Company territories.
In the spring of 1816, Alexander McDonnell, a imrtner of the Northwest Company
collected a strong force with the design of crushing the settlement completely. After
capturing the supply train on its way to Red river, the invading force came upon
(rovernor Semple and a force of thirty men all of whom they killed, except one who
was made a prisoner and four who escaped. The settlers still remaining in the fort,
seeing the hopelessness of resistance, surrendered, and to the number of 200 were sent
in canoes to Hudson's bay. They were chiefly Scotch, as were also the attacking jiarty;
but the love of gain was stronger than the ties of blood.

In 1821 parliament put an end to this bloody feud and ruinous competition by
consolidating the rival companies under the name of The Honorable Hudson's Bay
Company, by which Avas created an organization far more ptowerful than had either
been before, and England gained a united and potent agent for the advancement of
her interests in America. The settlements on the Red, Assiniboine and Saskatchewan
rivers were renewed, and Winnipeg became in a few years the center of a prosperous
community. The new company took possession of Astoria and the posts along the
Columbia, and as it thereafter became closely woven into the history of this region, a
brief description of its founding, growth and methods becomes necessary to a full
understanding of subsequent events. Dr. William Barrows gives the following descrip-
tion of that powerful corporation.

" Its two objects as set forth in its charter, were 'for the discovery of a new passage
into the South Sea, and for the finding of some trade for furs, minerals and other con-
siderable commadities.' It may well he suspected that the first was the face and the
second the soul of the charter, which grants to the company the exclusive right of the
'trade and commerce of all those seas, straits and bays, rivers, lakes, creeks, and sounds,
in whatsoever latitude they shall be, that lie within the enti'ance of the straits com-
monlv called Hudson straits,' and of all hinds borderino- them not under anv other

civilized govenimeut. This covered all territory within that immense basin from rim
to rim, one edge dipping into the Atlantic and the other looking into the Pacific.
Tlirongli this vast extent the comjjany was made for ' all time hereafter, capable in
law, to have, pnrchase, receive, possess, enjoy, and retain lands, rents, privileges, lib-
erties, jurisdiction, franchise, and hereditaments of what kind, nature, or quality
soever they be, to them and their successors.' The company held that region as a
man holds his farm, or as the great bulk of real estate in England is now held. They
could legislate over and govern it, bound only by the tenor and sjiirit of English law,
and make war and peace within it; and all persons outside the company could be for-
bidden to ' visit, hunt, frequent, trade, traffic, or adventure' therein. For all this,
and as a confession of allegiance to the crown as a dependent colony and province',
they were to pay annually as rent ' two elks and two black beavers.' Cheap rent that,
especially since the king or his agent must collect it on the ground of the company.
To dwell in the territory or even to go across it would be as really a trespass as if it
were done on the lawn of a private gentleman in Middlesex county, England.

" Such were the chartered rights of a monopoly that growing bolder and more
grasping became at last continental in sweeji, irresistible in power, and inexorable in
spirit. In 1821 the crown granted to this and the Northwest Company united, and for
a term of twenty-one years, the exclusive right to trade with all Indians in British
North America, north and west of the United States, and not included in the first
charter. This granted only trade, not ownership in the soil. Thus, while the chartered
territory was imperial, it grew^, by granted monopoly of trade, to be continental. By
degrees the trappers and traders Avent over the rim of the Hudson basin, till they
reached the Arctic seas along the outlet of the Coppermine and the Mackenzie. They
set beaver traps on the Yukon and Eraser rivers, around the Athabasca, Slave and
Bear lakes, and on the heads of the Columbia. From the adjacent Pacific shore they
lined their treasury with the soft coats of the fur seal and the sea-otter. They wei-e
the pioneers of this traffic, and pressed this monopoly of fur on the sources, not only
of the Mississippi and Missouri, but down into the Salt Lake basin of modern Utah.
What minor and rival companies stood in the way they bought in, or crushed by un-
derselling to the Indians. Individual enterprise in the fur trade, from Newfoundland
to Vancouver, and from the headwaters of the Yellowstone to the mouth of the
Mackenzie was at their mercy. They practically controlled the introduction of sup-
plies and the outgoing of furs and peltries from all the immense region between those
four points.

" Within the Canadas and the other provinces they held the Indian and the Eu-
ropean equally at bay, while within all this vast unorganized wilderness, their hand
over red and white man was absolute. At first the company could govern as it pleased,
and was autocratic and irresponsible. By additional legislation in 1803, the civil and
criminal government of the Canadas was made to follow the company into lands out-
side their first charter, commonly called Indian countries. The governor of Lower
Canada had the appointing power of officials within those counti-ies. But he did not
send in special men ; he appointed those connected with the company and on the
ground. The company, therefore, had the administration in those outside districts in
its own hands. Thus the commercial life of the Canadas was so dependent upon the

OREGON. Ill

Hudson Bay Company that the government couhl be eonnted on to promote the wishes
of the company. In brief, the government of British America was practically the
Hudson Bay Company, and for all the privilege and monopoly which it enjoyed with-
out seeming to demand it, there was an annual jiayment if called for of ' two elks and
two black beavers.'

" This company thus became a powerful organization. It had no rival to share
the field, or waste the profits iu litigation, or in bloody feuds beyond the region of
law. [ Except the contest between it and the Northwest Company prior to their con-
solidation.] It extended its lines, multiplied its posts and agents, systematized com-
munication through the immense hunting grounds, economized time and funds by in-
creased expedition, made many of its factories really fortifications, and so put the whole
northern interior under British rule, and yet without a soldier. Kivers, lakes, moun-
tains and prairies were covered by its agents and trappers. The white and the red
men were on most friendly terms, and the birch canoe and the pirogue were seen car-
lying, in mixed company, both races, and, what was more, their mixed progeny. The
extent of territory under this company seems almost fabulous. It was one-third larger
than all Europe ; it was larger than the United States of to-day, Alaska included, by
half a million of square miles. From the American headquarters at Montreal to the
post at Vancouver was a distance of twenty -five hundred miles ; to Fort Selkirk on the
Yukon, or to the one on Great Bear lake, it was three thousand miles, and it was still
further to the rich fur seal and sea-otter on the tide waters of the Mackenzie. James
l)ay and Red river at Winnipeg seem near to Montreal in comparison. These dis-
tances would compare well with air-line routes from Washington to Dublin, or Gib-
raltar or Quito.

"One contemplates this power with awe and fear, when he regards the even motion
and solemn silence and unvarying sameness with which it has done its work through
that dreary animal country. It has been said that a hundred years has not changed
its bill of goods ordered from London. The company wants the same muskrat and
heaver and seal ; the Indian hunter, unimproved, and the half-breed European, deterio-
rating, want the same cotton goods, and flint-lock guns, and tobacco and gew-gaws.
To-day, as a hundred years ago, the dog sled runs out from Winnipeg for its solitary
drive of five hundred, or two thousand, or even three thousand miles. It glides, silent
as a spectre, over those snow fields, and through the solemn, still forests, painfully
wanting in animal life. Fifty, seventy, an hundred days it speeds along, and as many
nights it camps without fire, and looks up to the same cold stars. At the intervening
])osts the sledge makes a pause, as a ship, having rounded Cape Horn, heaves to before
some lone Pacific island. It is the same at the trader's hut or fiictory as when the
sledgemau's grandfather drove up, the same dogs, the same half-breeds, or royageurs to
welcome him, the same foul, lounging Indians, and the same mink skin in exchange
for the same trinkets. The fur animal and its purchaser and hunter, as the landscape,
seem to be alike under the same immutable, unprogressive law of nature,

' A land where all things always seemed the same,'
a-s among the lotus-eaters. Human progress and Indian civilization have made
scarcely uKjre improvement than that central, silent partner in the Hudson Bay Com-
pany— the beaver.

112 OKEGON.

" Oue feels towards the power of this company, moving thns with evenness and
immutability through a hundred years, much as one does towards a law of nature. At
Fort Selkirk, for example, the fifty-two numbers of the weekly London Times came
in on the last sledge arrival. The first number is already three years old, by its
tedious voyage from the Thames. Now one number only a week is read, that the lone
trader there may have fresh news weekly until the next annual dog-mail arrives, and
each successive number is three years behind time when it is opened ! In this day of
steamers and telegraphs and telephones, does it seem possible that any human, white
habitation can be so outside of the geography and chronology of the world ? The goods
of the company, packed and shipped in Fenchurch street, leave London, and at the
end of the third year they are delivered at Fort Confidence on Great Bear lake, or at
any other extreme factory of the company ; and at the end of three years more the re-
turn furs go up the Thames and into Fenchurch street again. So in cycles of six
years, and from age to age, like a planet, the shares in the Hudson Bay Compaiiy
make their orbit and dividends. A run of three months and the Loudon ship drops
anchor in Hudson bay. ' For one year ' says Butler in his ' Great Lone Land,' ' the
stores that she has brought in lie in the warehouse of York Factory ; twelve months
later they reach Ked river ; twelve months later they reach Fort Simpson on the Mac-
kenzie.'

" The original stock of this company was $50,820. In fifty years it was trippled
twice by profits only, and went up to $457,380, while not one new dollar was paid in.
In 1821 the company absorbed the Northwest Company of Montreal, on a basis of
value equal to its own. The consolidated stock then was $1,916,000, of which
$1,780,866 was from profits. Yet, meanwhile, there had been an annual payment of
ten per cent, to stockholders. In 1836 one of the company's ships left Fort George
for London, with a cargo of furs valued at $380,000. =•= * * When the
Eno-lish o-overnment, in 1846, conceded the claims of the United States to Oregon,
property of the Hudson Bay Company was found within Oregon for which that com-
pany claimed $4,990,036.67. One cannot but admire the foresight, compass, policy,
and ability with which those English fur traders moved to gain possession, and then
keep in wilderness for fur-bearing, so much of North America. '=' '^^ '^'
Travelers tell us of an oppressive, painful silence through all that weird northland.
Quadruped life, and the scanty little that there is of bird life, is not vocal, much less
musical. This company has partaken of the silence of its domain. It makes but
little noise for so great an organization. It says but few things and only the necessary
ones, and even those with an obscurity often, that only the interested and initiated
understand. The statements of its works and results are mostly in the passive voice."

This description carries us somewhat beyond the era of which this chapter treats,
but it is done for a purpose, that the reader might fully comprehend the full power,
methods and objects of this potent corporation which represented England in its eon-
test with the United States for the fair land of Oregon. If he will study it he will
discover the fatal points of weakness, which will be developed more and more as the
story of that long contest is unfolded. The company desired to win Oregon for Eng-
land, not that the power and dominion of that great empire might be extended, but
that the company might be left unmolested to dominate this region and fill its treasure

■v.-*.-

f?4ff»-

m \\

OREGON. 113

boxes with the products of the wiklerness; for its officers well knew that from Eng-
land they might hope for an indefinite extension of its monopoly rights, but from^the
United States nothing. It was an effort to beat back the wave of progress and civili-
zation, and fiulure could have been the only result. For two centuries it had reigned
sujn'eme in British America, and had defeated every effiirt to make of that region any-
thing but a vast hunting ground for its representatives. It was from the first its policy
to discourage and jirevent if possible any exploration of its dominions, and instances
are not wanting where expeditions sent out by the home government came to grief
through the machinations of the company. It occasionally sent out explorers in search
of new fields in which to operate, but was careful to keep the knowledge thus obtained
a secret, and to make no record of anything save what was necessary in the prosecu-
tion of its business. This policy it endeavored to carry out in Oregon ; but it miscal-
culated its strength and was swept away before the resistless march of American progress.

CHAPTER XV

RIVALRY OF ENGLISH AND AMERICAN FUR COMPANIES.

Outlook for Joint Occupation -American and English Fur Traders Compared —Fort Vancouver Founded -De-
scribed by John Dunn— American Trapping History— Expeditions of Jedediah S. Smith— The Hudson's Bay
Company Enters California- Ewing Young's Party— Bonneville and Wyeth — Failure of American Trappers
in Oregon— Cause of their 111 Success.

When joint occui)ation of Oregon was agreed upon in 1818, the only Caucasians
in the country, as we have seen, were representatives of the Northwest Company, or,
as they became in a few years, of the Hudson's Bay Company. Not an American was
to be found along the Columbia from its source to its mouth. After the disastrous
venture of Mr. Astor and his unsuccessful efforts to secure a restoration of his property
through the medium of the government, which, could it but have recognized the fact,
was far more deeply interested in retaining under American control the mouth of the
Columbia than any private citizen could possibly have been, traders hesitated to enter
this region and undertake to comj^ete with the powerful organization already entrenched.
The question of taking military ^'ossession of the Columbia was frequently discussed
in congress, committees reported favorably on it at various times, and a number of
plans were advocated, among them being one to send a body of troops overland to oc-
cupy the disputeil territorv, and another to construct a chain of forts across the con-
tinent, which should form a basis of supplies and protection for emigrants. None of
these plans were adopted, and it was then a little early for emigrants.

The great draAvback was the fact that there was no American company sufficiently
powerful to enter the field in competition with the English corporation. The Ameri-
cans were nearly all independent traders, operating individually or in partnerships of
two or three. Separately they had not the capital to carry on a business in the sys-
tematic and comprehensive manner in which the Hudson's Bay Company operated.
One unsuccessful season with them was often financially disastrous, while to the great
company a completely unsuccessful year was impossible. Covering such a vast scope
of country, dealing with so many tribes, and handling such varied classes of fiirs, such
a thing as a total failure was unknown. Losses in one section were certain to be com-
pensated for by unusual gains in another. Whenever two trapping parties met in open
competition for the trade of a tribe, the Americans had to go to the wall, except in the
few cases where they outwitted their opponents. The English trader was instructed to
do anything he chose to spoil the trade of his rivals. No spectre of bankruptcy
shook its bony finger before his face, no vision of an angry and distrustful partner
rose up before him. He could sit quietly down and give away every dollar's worth of
goods he had, if it were necessary so to do in order to prevent the Indians from trading
with his rivals. On the other hand the American trader, with the last dollar he pos-
sessed invested in this one venture, could neither give away his goods nor could he
affi)rd to lose the trade before him ; for often the chance he then had to secure a good
stock of furs was the only opportunity offered during the season, and to miss it meant
ruin. Xot only this, but the American traders carried on such sharp competition among
themselves that they were the more unable to hold their ground against a harmonious
organization. The fact that congress in 1815 passed an act expelling all foreign traders
from the territories east of the Rocky mountains is of importance only as it signifies
the desire of the government to aid our struggling pioneer traders ; for the act was
practically inoperative, since agents of the Hudson's Bay Company continued to mo-
nopolize the Indian trade on the upper Missouri and its affluents.

In 1821 the Northwest Company established a post on the north bank of the Co-
lumbia, a few miles above the mouth of the Willamette, which was called Fort Van-
couver, since this was the highest point reached by the exploring party of the Van-
couver expedition in 1792. In 1823 the Hudson's Bay Company removed its Pacific
headquarters from Astoria to that point because it possessed the desirable features for
such an establishment more fiilly than any other in this whole region. It was near the
mouth of the Willamette and therefore the center and natural converging point of
trapping parties coming down the Columbia from the vast wilderness to the east or
with the annual overland express from Montreal, from the rich trapping grounds to
the south, or from the upper coast and Puget sound; agriculturally, the surroundings
were all that could be desired to raise the large crops of grain and vegetables required
at all the company's posts and to furnish pasturage for the beef and dairy cattle ; it
was easily approachable by deep-water vessels of large draft, and presented excellent
natural facilities for loading and discharging cargo. The vessels that came at stated
lieriods to bring supplies and carry away the accumulated furs, could spare the few days
of extra time required to ascend the river better than the employees of the company
could spare it in passing to and from headquarters in the transaction of business. Van-
couver was the most eligible site on the Columbia for the chief trading post, and

OREGON. 115

remained the company's liea(l(|uai'ters until it abaiuloiied this region entirely in
1858.

During the next four years the company spread out in all directions, from C'alifor-
uia to Alaska and from the Pacific to the Rocky mountains. Some idea can be gained
of its power and methods in Oregon from the following description given by John
Dunn, for seven years a clerk and trader of the comi^any :

" Fort Vancouver is the grand mart and rendezvous for the company's trade and
servants on the Pacific. Thither all the furs and other articles of trade collected west
of the Rocky mountains from California to the Russian territories, are brought from
the several other forts and stations ; and from thence they are ship23ed to England.
Thither too all the goods brought from England for traffic — the various articles in
woolens and cottons — in grocery — in hardware — ready-made clothes — oils and paints
— ship stores, etc., are landed ; and from thence they are distributed to the various
posts of the interior, and along the northern shores by sailing vessels ; or by boat ; or
pack horses ; as the several routes permit ; for distribution and traffic among the na-
tives, or for the supjily of the company's servants. In a word, Fort Vancouver is the
grand emporium of the company's trade, west of the Rocky mountains ; as well within
the Oregon territory, as beyond it, from California to Kamstchatka.

" The fort is in the shape of a parallelogram, about 250 yards long, by 150 broad ;
enclosed by a sort of wooden wall, made of pickets, or large beams fixed firmly in the
ground, and closely fitted together, twenty feet high, and strongly secured on the inside
by buttresses. At each angle there is a bastion, mounting two twelve pounders, and
in the center there are some eighteen pounders ; but from the subdued and pacific char-
acter of the natives, and the long absence of all apprehension, these canon have be-
come useless. The area within is divided into two courts, arouad which are arranged
about forty neat, strong wooden buildings, one story high, designed for various purposes
— such as offices, apartments for the clerks and other officers — warehouses for furs,
Engli.sh goods and other commodities — workshops for the difterent mechanics ; carpen-
ters, blacksmiths, coopers, wheelwrights, tinners, etc. ; in all of which there is the most
diligent and unceasing activity and industry. There is also a school house and chapel;
and a powder magazine built of brick and stone.

" In the centre stands the governor's residence, which is two stories high — the din-
ing hall ; and the public sitting room. All the clerks and officers, including the chaj)-
lain and physician, dine together in the hall ; the governor presiding. The dinner is
of the most substantial kind, consisting of several courses. Wine is frequently allowed ;
but no spirituous liquors. After grace has been said, the company break up. Then
most of the party retire to the public sitting room, called ' Bachelor's Hall, ' or the
smoking room; to amuse themselves as they please, either in smoking, reading, or tell-
ing and listening to stories of their own and others' curious adventures. Sometimes
there is a great influx of company, consisting of the chief traders from the outposts,
who arrive at the fijrt on business ; and the commanders of vessels. These are gala
times after dinner ; and there is a great deal of amusement, but always kept under
.strict discipline, and regulated by the strictest propriety. There is, on no occasion,
cause for ciiiun'. or a lack of anecdote or interesting narrative ; or indeed of any in-
tellectual ainuscment ; for if sinokiiio- and stoi'v-telliuii- be irksome, then there is the

horse ready to mount, and the riile prepared. The voyageur and the traj^per, who
have traversed thousands of miles through wild and unfrequented regions ; and the
mariner, who has circumnavigated the globe, may be found grouped together, smoking,
joking, singing and story telling ; and in every way banishing dull care, till the period
of their again setting out for their respective destinations arrives. The smoking room
or ' bachelor's hall,' presents the appearance of an armoury and a museum. All sorts
of weapons, and dresses, and curiosities of civilized and savage life, and of the various
implements for the prosecution of the trade, may be seen there. The mechanics, and
other servants f)f the establishment, do not dine in the hall or go to the smoking room.

" The school is for the benefit of the half breed children of the officers and ser-
vants of the company, and of many orphan children of Indians who have been in the
company's employment. They are taught English (sometimes French), writing, arith-
metic and geography ; and are subsequently either apprenticed to traders in Canada ;
or kept in the company's service. The front squai-e is the place where the Indians and
trappers deposit their furs, and other articles, and make their sales, etc. There may be
seen, too, great numbers of men sorting and packing the various goods ; and scores of
Canadians beating and cleaning the furs from the dust and vermin, and coarse hairs,
previous to exportation. Six hundred yards below the fort, and o)i the bank of the
river, there is a neat village, of about sixty well built wooden houses, generally con-
structed like those within the fort ; in which the mechanics, and other servants of the
company, who are in general Canadians and Scotchmen, reside with their families.
They are built in rows, and present the appearance of small streets. They are kept
in a neat and orderly manner. Here there is an hospital, in which the invalided sei'-
vants of the company, and, indeed, others who may wish to avail themselves of it, are
treated with the utmost care.

" Many of the officers of the company marry half breed women. They discharge
the several duties of wife and mother with fidelity, cleverness and attention. They
are, in general, good housewives ; and are remarkably ingenious as needlewomen.
Many of them, besides possessing a knowledge of English, speak French correctly, and
possess other accomplishments ; and they sometimes attend their husbands on their dis-
tant and tedious journeys and voyages. These half breed women are of a superior
class; being the daughters of chief traders and factors, and other persons, high in the
company's service, by Indian women of a sujjerior descent or of superior jiersonal at-
tractions. Though they generally dress after the English fashion, according as they
see it used by the English wives of the superior officers, yet they retain one peculiarity
— the leggin or gaiter, which is made (now that the tanned deer skin has been super-
seded) of the finest, and most gaudy coloured cloth, beautifully ornamented wdth beads.
The lower classes of the company's servants marry native women, from the tribes of
the upper country ; where the women are round-headed and beautiful. These, too,
generally speaking, soon learn the art of useful housewifery with great adroitness and
readiness; and they are encouraged and rewarded in everyway by the company, in
their efforts to acquii-e domestic economy and comfort. These, too, imitate, in costume
the dress of the officers' wives, as much as they can ; and from . their necessities of ])o-
sition, which exposes them more to wet and drudgery, they retain the moccasin, in
l)lace of adopting tlie low-quartered shoe.

OREGON. 117

" Attached to the tljrt there is a luagnificent farm ; con.sisting of about 3,000 acres -
of which l,oOO acres have been already brought to the liighest state of tilhige. It
stretches behind the fort, and on both sides, along the banks of the river. It is fenced
into beautiful corn fields — vegetable fields — orchards — gardens — and pasture fields,
which are interspersed with dairy houses, shepherds' and herdsmen's cottages. It is
placed under the most judicious management ; and neither expense nor labour has been
spared to bring it to the most perfect cultivation. There is a large grist mill, and a
threshing mill, which are worked by liorse power ; and a saw mill worked by water
power. All kinds of grains and vegetables, and many species of fruits, are jjroduced
there in abundance and of superior quality. The grain crops are produced without
manure ; and the wheat crojt, esjiecially, is i-epresented by practical farmers to be won-
derful.

" Besides this farm, which they are]"every day extending, they have commenced
farming on a large scale on the Cowlitze, to the north ; Umpqua, to the south ; and in
other parts of the territory, where they have established posts, the produce of all of which
they use for exportation both to the Russian stations in Kamskatka (as they entered
into a contract with the Russians, in 18o9, to supply their posts in those regions with
provisions at fixed prices), and to the islands in the Southern Pacific ; and to British
and American whalers and to other merchant ships. They also keep scores of wood
cutters, employed to fell timber, which is sawed up in large quantities — 3,000 feet a
day, and regularly shipped for the Sandwich islands, and other foreign ports. And as
they can afford to sell the goods purchased in England under a contract of old standing,
together with the productions of the territory and their own farms — fish, beef, mutton,
pork, timber, etc., at nearly half the American price, they are likely to engross the
whole trade of the Pacific, as they do already the trade of the Oregon ; especially since
they command all the ports and safe inlets of the country. This the Americans feel
and declare ; and it is this which whets their cupidity, and excites their jealousv and
hatred.

" Trap})ing [larties leaving Vancouver are some weeks pre2)aring for the mountains
and prairies. The blacksmiths are busily engaged making beaver traps for the trap-
pers— the store keepers making up articles for trade, and equipping the men, the clerk
in charge of the provision store packing up provisions for them, to last until they get
into hunting ground, the clerk in charge of the farm providing horses, and other re-
(juisite articles. Tlie party generally consists of about fifty or sixty men — most of them
the company's servants — others, free hunters. The servants have a stated salary, while
the freemen receive so much per skin. Previous to leaving the fort for the arduous
adventure they are allowed a small quantity of rum per man ; and they generally en-
joy a grand holiday and feast the night previous to starting. Each man has a certain
number of horses, sufficient to carry his equipment. The free trappers generally pro-
vide their own animals. Both the company's servants and the frepm(>n freijuentlv take
their wives and families with them; the women are very useful nn the ('X|ieditioii, in
])reparing meals and other necessaries for their husbands during their absi'uce from
the camp. In summer and winter, whether they liave a sort of a traveling camp or a
fixed rc-iidence, they select the localities that most abound in fur-ljearing animals.
Though ;i oai-ty iiiav be obliued, fnnn a varietv of circumstances, to winter in the plain,

118 OREGON.

or iu the recesses of the niouutaiiis ; or on the borders of hikes and rivers, some num-
bers of it return to the fort at the fall, with the produce of the season's hunt, and re-
port progress ; and return to the camp with a reinforcement of necessary supplies.
Thus the comjiany are enabled to acquire a minute knowledge of the country and the
natives; and extend their power and authority over both."

Such was the hold the Hudson's Bay Companj- had upon Oregon when Americans
attempted to enter the country and exercise their rights under the "treaty of joint oc-
cupancy. To show how American trappers first extended their operations into the
disputed country, requires a short sketch of the American fur trade.

In 1762, while Louisiana was still a province of France, its governor chartered a
fur company under the name of Pierre Ligueste Laclede, Antoine Maxan & Co. La-
clede established St. Louis the following year, and it became a headquarters for the fur
trade similar to Mackinaw and Montreal. The business of this company and many
others that engaged along the Missouri in the trap^Ding of beaver became very large.
The acquisition of Louisiana by the United States threw this tnide into the hands of
the Americans. In 1815, congress passed an act expelling British traders from all
the territories east of the Rocky mountains, and the American Fur Company, at the
head of which Mr. Astor had been for many years, bsgan to send trappers to the head-
waters of the Mississippi and Missouri rivers. American trappers also i^enetrated into
New Mexico and established a trade between St. Louis and Santa Fe. Up to this
time but one attempt had been made by trajjpers to penetrate the Rocky mountains,
and that was in 1808, by the M issouri Fur Company, at the head of which was a
Spaniard named Manuel Lisa. Posts were established on the upper Missouri and one
on Lewis river, the south branch of the Columbia ; but the failure of sup]:)lies and
the hostilitv of the savages caused its abandonment by the manager, Mr. Henry, in
1810.

In 1823, Gen. W. H. Ashley, a St. Louis merchant long engaged in the fur trade,
pushed a trapping party into the Rocky mountains. He went up the Platte to the
Sweetwater, and up that stream to its source, discovered the South pass, explored the
liead-waters of the Colorado (or Green) river, and returned to St. Louis in the fall.
The next year he again penetrated the mountains and built a trading fort on Lake
Ashley, near Great Salt Lake, both of which bodies of water were discovered b}- him
that year, and returned, leaving there one hundred men. From that time the head-
waters of the Missouri and its tributaries, the Green and Columbia rivers and their
tributaries, were the trapping-ground of hundreds of daring men, whose wild and
rackless life, privations and encounters with the savages, make a theme of romance
that has occupied the jjen of Washington Irving and many authors of lesser note, and
been the source from which the novelists of the sensational school have drawn a wealth
of material. It was the custom to divide the trappers into bands of sufiicient strength
to defend themselves against the attacks of savages, and send them out in different
directions during the trapping season, to assemble the next summer at a grand rendez-
vous previously appointed, the head-waters of Green river being the favorite locality
for the annual meeting.

In the spring of 1825, Jetleliah S. Smith lei a company of this kind, consisting
of about forty men, into the countrv west of Great Salt Lake, discovered Humlwldt

river and named it Mary's river, followed down that stream and crossed the Sierra
Nevada into the great valley in July. He collected a large quantity of furs, estab-
lished a headquarters on the American river near Folsom, and then, with two com-
panions, recrossed the mountains through Walker's pass, and returned to the general
rendezvous on Green river, to tell of the wonderful valley he had visited. Cronise
speaks of American trappers having penetrated into California as early as 1820, but
is evidently mistaken, as there is no record of any party crossing the Rocky mountains
previous to the expedition of Mr. Ashley in 1823, save those already mentioned.
Jedediah S. Smith must stand in history as the first white man to lead a party over-
land into California. The return of Smith with such a valuable collection of furs,
and specimens of filacer gold he had discovered on his return journey near Mono lake,
led to his being sent again the next season, with instructions to thoroughly inspect the
gold placers on the way. Tliis time he went as a jjartner, Mr. Ashley having sold his
interest to the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, consisting of William Sublette, Jede-
diah S. Smith and David Jackson. He passed as far south as the Colorado river, and
there had a battle with the Indians, in which all but himself, Turner and Galbraith
were killed. They escaped and arrived at the Mission San Gabriel, where they were
arrested as filibusters and sent to San Diego, but were released upon the certificate of
the officers of some American vessels who chanced to be on the coast, that they were
peaceful trappers and had passports from the commissioner of Indian affairs. This
certificate bears date December 20, 1826, and in the ensuing May we find them in
camp near San Jose, where the following letter was written to Father Duran, who had
sent to know what their presence there signified : —

Reverend Fathe;, ; — I understand, through the medium of one of your Christian Indians,
that you are anxious to know who we are, as some of the Indians have been at the mission and
informed you that there were certain white people in the country. We are xVmericans on our
journey to the River Columbia ; we were in at the Mission San Gabriel in January last. I went to
San Diego and saw the general, and got a passjjort from him to pass on to that place. I have made
several efforts to cross the mountains, but the snows being so deep, I could not succeed in getting
over. I returned to this place (it being the only point to kill meat), to wait a few weeks until the
snow melts so that I can go on : the Indians here also being friendly, I consider it the most safe
point for me to remain, until such time as I can cross the mountains with my horses, having lost a
great many in attempting to cross ten or fifteen days since. I am a long ways from home, and am
anxious to get there as soon as the nature of the case will admit. Our situation is quite unpleas-
ant, being destitute of clothing and most of the necessaries of life, wild meat being our jjrincipal
subsistence. I am, Reverend Father, your strange but real friend and Christian brother.

•T. S Smith.
May 19th, 1827.

Smith had united himself with the party he had left in 1825 on the American
river, and who had been very successful during his absence, and now that he could
not cro.ss the Sierra Nevada, decided to penetrate north to the Columbia and follow
up that stream to the Rocky mountains, expecting to join his jiartners at the Green
river rendezvous. Near the liead of the Sacramento valley the party cro.ssed the
Coast Range to the west, reaching the ocean near the mouth of Ru.ssian river, and con-
tinued up the coast to the Umpcpia. While sto[)i)ing here to construct a raft for the
purpose of ferrying their effects across the stream, their camp was suddenly attacked
by Indians with whom they were holding friendly intercourse, and all ])ut three were
slain. Smitli. Daniel Prioi', and an Indian were on the raft at the time of the attack

120 OEEGON.

and when the signal yell was given the Indian seized Smith's rifle and sprung into the
water ; but the old mountaineer grasped his companion's gun, and as soon as the
treacherous rascal thrust his head out of water to catch a breath, sent a bullet through
his brain. The two men then landed on the opposite side of the river and started on
foot for Vancouver, which they eventually reached in safety. The third one who
escaped was Richard Laughlin, who seized a burning brand from the fire and with
vigorous blows upon the naked bodies of the savages cleared a passage for himself
through the assailants and escaped uninjured. After enduring many hardships he,
too, reached the company's headquarters on the Columbia.

The Hudson's Bay Company had made it an inflexible rule to treat the natives
justly and even liberally, to give them no cause of offense or complaint ; but to main-
tain respect for their power and authority and to show the natives that their conduct
was not inspired by fear, they never failed to punish offending tribes or individuals in
such a manner as would be a perpetual warning to them in the future. It happened
that Governor Simpson was at Fort Vancouver at the time Smith arrived in such a
forlorn condition, and he sent out a party under Thomas McKay, son of Alexander
McKay, the partner of Mr. Astor who perished on the Tonquin, to jHinish the Indians
and recover the captured property, both as a necessary step to maintain the company's
authority and as an act of courtesy to the despoiled trader. Accounts vary as to the
degree of punishment inflicted, but at all events the furs were recovered and conveyed
to Vancouver, and since he could not carry them, having no means, and since the
company, from a business point of view, could not afford to provide him with facilities
for carrying on opposition to it, he sold the whole lot to the company for $40,000.
Though this was much below the market price in St. Louis, it was a pretty fair valu-
ation for them on the Columbia. The most minute account of this transaction is given
by Rev. Gustavus Hines, to whom it was related by Dr. McLaiighliu, chief factor of
the company, a few years subsequently. But one writer has seriously questioned the
correctness of these statements. Gray's History of Oregon states that the property
was recovered " by giving them presents of blankets and powder, and such things as
the Indians wished, as stated to us by a Frenchman, a servant of the company, who
was one of Mr. McKay's party that went to get the furs. They found no bodies to
bury, and had no fight with the Indians about the property, as stated by Mr. Smith,
also. But, as the Hudson's Bay Company tells the story through Mr. Hines, they
' spread terror through the tribes.' ''' ''' Mr. Hines says his Umpqua party
* returned in triumph to Vancouver.'' And well they might, for they had made the
best season's hunt they ever made, in getting those furs and the property of Smiths
which paid them well for the expedition, as there was no market for Smith, except
London, through the hypocritical kindness of Mr. Simpson. By this time, Mr. Smith
had learned all he wished to of this company. He preferred giving them his furs at
their own price to being under any further obligations to them. Mr. Sublette, Mr.
Smith's partner, did not speak as though he felt under much obligation to Mr. Simp-
son or the Hudson's Bay Company, which was not long after the transaction referred
to. I do not know how the company regard these statements of Mr. Hines, yet I
regard them as true so far as ]Mr. Hines is concerned, but utterly false as regards the
com^^any. '•' '=" '=' According to the testimony given in the case of the

Hudson's Bay Company rx. United States, the amount of furs seized by the company
at that time was forty packs, worth at the time |1,000 each, besides the animals and
equipments belonging to the i^ai'ty, a large portion of which was given to the Indians,
to comj^ensate them for their services rendered to the company, in destroying Smith's
expedition and killing his men."

When it is known that the author of tlie above bears such bitter hatred towards
the Hudson's Bay Company and the officers who represented it in Oregon that he can-
not even hear the name mentioned without bristling up in anger, and that this feeling-
grew out of early missionary feuds, the hated company having supported the Catholic
missionaries, opponents of this gentleman and his associates in the Protestant missions
it will be understood how, having been thus carried beyond the verge of reason, he
could make such deliberate charges of inhumanity against men well known to have
been possessed of more than ordinary integrity, benevolence and morality That the
company's policy was to break down all opposition, is true ; that in order to do this
they strictly enjoined all Indians over whom they exercised any control from dealing
with independent traders or selling them supplies, and instructed the agents at their
various posts to refuse supplies and ammunition to them, except when it became a case
of pure humanity, is also true ; but that it ever encouraged the thought among the na-
tives that it would be pleased by the murder of Americans is not susceptible of proof,
and the idea is as inconsistent with well known facts as it is wdtli the character of the
men who administered the company's affairs in Oregon. Dr. John McLaughlin was
one of nature's noblemen, kind and benevolent in character and in manners a thor-
ough gentleman. Undeserved abuse has been heaped upon his head by his enemies
without stint, many of whom display the basest ingratitude in so doing. Though
instructed by the company to oppose the settlement of Americans and to refuse to sell
them supplies, his kind heart would not permit him to carry out the injunction. The
needy pioneer never applied to him in vain He not only sold them supplies but gave
them credit, many of them never settling their scores , and for this he was in later
years dismissed from his position and compelled by the company to pay from his own
pocket all that was owing from these ungrateful men who at that very time were vili-
fying his name, being thus brought to the verge of l)ankruptcy. It is needless to go
into further details, for all, save a few whom blind prejudice holds in chains, bear testi-
mony to the grandeur of Dr. McLaughlin's character. As for Tom McKay he was
universally respected liy whites and Indians for his sterling integrity, and because of
this held greater influence over the Indians of this region than any man before or
since. He took up land in the Willamette valley and lived as an American citizen,
loved and respected to the day of his death. . To ascribe such conduct to men like
this is to show that judgment has been so distorted by prejudice as to be valueless.

Smitli's party was the first band of American trappers to visit this region, and as
their presence was unsuspected by the company it is impossible that the Indians could
have been stirred up against them. A few years later, when the American traders
were better known here and settlers began to arrive, the distinction between the Bostons
(Americans) and King George men (Englishmen), became better known, and the In-
dians became prejudiced against the former for reasons that will be given in speaking
of American settlements. Dunn relates an incident which shows this sinrit in after

122 OREGON.

years among the savages, and which also shows that it was not fostered by the company,
He says :

" On one occasion an American vessel, Captain Thompson, was in the Columbia,
ti-ading for furs and salmon. The vessel had got aground, in the upper part of the river,
and the Indians, from various quarters, mustered with the intent of cutting the Ameri-
cans off, thinking that they had an opportunity of revenge, and would thus escape the
censure of the comjiany. Dr. M'Laughlin, the governor of Fort Vancouver, hearing
of their intention, immediately dispatched a party to their rendezvous; and informed
them that if they injured one American, it would be just the same offense as if they
had injured one of his servants, and they would be treated equally as enemies. This
stunned them ; and they relinquished their purpose ; and all retired to their respective
homes. Had not this come to the governor's ears the Americans must have perished."

A i^arty of trappers was then sent out from Vancouver to penetrate into California,
headed by Alexander Roderick McLeod and guided by one of the survivors of the
Umpqua massacre. They passed through Rogue river valley, over Siskiyou mountain,
and entered California by the way of the Sacramento river, trapping along the streams
that course through the valley. In the early part of the winter they were caught in
a severe snow storm on one of the tributaries of the Sacramento, in Shasta county,
and narrowly escaped starvation. They lost their horses and were in a sad plight. Joe
McLaughlin, son of the chief factor, set out on foot with a companion to procure aid
from Vancouver, and reached that place after much hardship and privation. McLeod
did not wait, however, but cached his furs, which were extremely valuable, and strug-
gled through to Vancouver with the remainder of his men. Another party was then
dispatched to recover the peltries, but found them spoiled. The stream which wit-
nessed his misfortune was ever afterwards called McLeod (now improperly spelled Mc-
Cloud) by his companion trappers.

Before the return of this unfortunate party to the fort, another, under Peter
Ogden and accompanied by Smith, started for the new trapping grounds by another
route. They passed up the Columbia and Lewis rivers to the source of the latter, at
which 2:)oint Smith left them and returned to the rendezvous on Green river, to report
his manifold misfortunes. He sold his interest in the Rocky Mountain Fur Company
in 1830, and the next year was treacherously killed by Indians while digging for
water in the dry bed of the Cimeron river, near Taos, New Mexico, and was buried
there by his companions. After Smith took his leave on Lewis river Ogden's party
continued south to Mary's or Humboldt river, which was thereafter known as Ogden's
river by the English, continued down that stream to the sink and crossed over the
mountains to California through Walker's pass. They trapped along the Sacramento
and followed McLeod's trail back to Vancouver. From that time till it became a por-
tion of the United States in 1846, California was one of the regular trapping grounds
of the Hudson's Bay Company.

The second party of American trappers to enter Oregon was that of Major Pileher.
They left Green river in 1828, and passed along the western base of the Rocky moun-
tains to Flathead lake, where they wintered. In the spring they descended Clarke's
Fork and the main Columbia to Colville river, up which they ascended to its source
and started on their return eastward. Gray says : " This party of Major Pileher

OREGON. 123

were all cut off but two men, l)esicles himself; liis furs, as stated by himself to the
writer, found their way into the forts of the Hudson's Bay Company." The writer,
though not stating it positively, intends to convey the impression that these men were
murdered at the instigation of the Hudson's Bay Company, or at least with its sanction.
That the captured furs w^ere sold to the company is true, but as that was the only mar-
ket open to the Indians it is a very small foundation upon which to lay a charge of
murder against the purchasers. The next band of American trappers was that of
Ewing Young, who had been for years a leader of trapping parties from Santa Fe to
the head waters of the Del Norte, Rio Grande and Colorado rivers. He entered Cali-
fornia through Walker's pa,ss in 1829, and returned the next year. In 1832 he again
entered California and followed Smith's route into Oregon as far as the Umjiqua, when
he turned eastward, crossed the mountains to the tributary streams of the Columbia
and Snake rivers, entered Sacramento valley again from the north, and finally crossed
out by the Tejon pass, having been absent from Santa Fe two years. Mr. Young soon
returned, and became one of the first and most energetic of the American settlers in
Oregon.

When Smith sold his interest in the Rocky Mountain Fur Company in 1830,
William Sublette and David Jackson retired also, and the new partners were Milton
Sublette, James Bridger, Robert Campbell, Thomas Fitzpatrick, Frapp and Jarvais.
In 1831 the old American Fur Company, which had been managed so long by Mr.
Astor but was now directed by Ramsey Crooks, began to push into the trapping
grounds of the other company. Great rivalry sprung up between them, which was the
following year intensified by the appearance of two other competitors in the persons of
Captain B. L. E. Bonneville and Nathaniel J. Wyeth. Captain Bonneville was a
United States army ofiicer, who had been given permission to lead a party of trappers
into the fur regions of the northwest, the expedition being countenanced by the govern-
ment only to the extent of this permit. It was supposed, that, by such an undertaking,
sufficient additional information of the region explored would be obtained to warrant
authorizing an ofiicer to engage in a private venture. The captain first reached the
Rocky mountains in 1832. In 1833 he sent Joseph Walker with forty men to Cali-
fornia over the route formerly pursued by Smith, and on Christmas of the same year
started with three companions from his camp on Portneuf river, upon an expedition to
Fort Walla Walla. His object, as given by Irving, was: "To make himself acquainted
with the country, and the Indian tribes ; it being one part of his scheme, to establish a
trading post somewhere on the lower part of the river, so as to participate in the trade
lost to the United States by the capture of Astoria." He reached Powder river on the
twelfth of January, 1834, whence his journey was continued down Snake river and by
the Nez Perce trail to Fort Walla Walla, where he arrived March 4, 1834.

This journey, in mid-winter, was attended with its accompanying detail of hard-
ships incident to the season, including the absence of game and presence of snow in
the mountains. At one time, they had wandered among the Blue mountains, lost amid
its canyons and defiles east of the Grand Ronde valley, for twenty days, nearly frozen
and constantly starved, until they were at the verge of despair. At length, a Nez
Perce chief was met, who invited them to his lodge some twelve miles further along
the trail tlicy were traveling, and then galloped away. So great had been the strain

upon the captain's system in sustaining these successive days of unnatural exertion,
that when the chief disappeared, he sunk upon the ground and lay there like one dead.
His companions tried in vain to arouse him. It was a useless effort, and they were
forced to camp by the trail until he awoke from this trance the next day and was
enabled to move on. They had hardly resumed their tedious journey, when some
dozen Nez Perces rode up with fresh horses and carried them in triumph to their vil-
lage. Everywhere, after this, they were kindly received by this hospitable people, fed,
cared for and guided on their way by them.

Bonneville and his two companions were kindly received at Fort Walla Walla by
Mr. P C. Pambrun, who, with five or six men, was in charge of that station at the
mouth of the Walla Walla river. This Hudson's Bay Company representative wa.s a
courteous, affable host, but when asked to sell the captain supplies that would enable
his return to the Kocky mountains : " That worthy superintendent, who had extended
all the genial rights of hospitality, now suddenly assumed a withered up aspect and
demeanor, and observed that, however he might feel disposed to serve him personally,
he felt bound by his duty to the Hudson's Bay Company, to do nothing which should
facilitate or encourage the visits of other traders among the Indians in that part of the
country." Bonneville remained at the fort but two days, for his destitute condition,
combined with the lateness in the season, rendered it necessary for him to return im-
mediately ; and he started on the back trail with his Nez Perce guide, and finally
reached the point of general rendezvous for his various ex^jeditions. This is a true
statement of the position assumed by the Hudson's Bay Company ; its agents would not
themselves, nor would they permit the Indians under their control to deal with or in
any manner assist opposition traders ; but that Bonneville traversed the country in
safety with but three companions after the company was aware of his intention to re-
turn and found a rival establishment on the Coluinbia, is convincing evidence that
assassination was not one of its methods of overcoming competition, however much
such charges may be reiterated by its enemies.

In July, 1834, Bonneville started on a second expedition to the Columbia, with a
formidable number of trappers and mountain men, well equipped, and with an exten-
sive stock of goods to trafiic with Indians. He still contemplated a restoration of
American trade in this country, and designed establishing a post for that purpose in
the Willamette valley. This time he passed the Blue mountains by way of Grand
Ronde valley and the Umatilla river, and upon his arrival at the mouth of that stream,
was surprised to find the natives shunning him. They ran from his men, hid them-
selves, and when intercepted, refused to have anything to do with the Americans.
Not a skin, a horse, a dog, or a fish could be obtained from them, having been warned
by the Hudson's Bay Company not to trafiic with these new comers. It now seemed a
question of imme'diate evacuation or starvation, and Bonneville decided to abandon his
attempt at joint occupancy. Once more he turned his back upon the Columbia and
left the English company in undisputed possession of the field.

A contemporaneous effort was made by Nathaniel J. Wyetli, a Boston mer-
chant. With eleven men who knew nothing of trapper-life, he crossed the plains to
Humboldt river with Milton Sublette in 1832. From this point the twelve pushed
north to Snake river, and bv wav of that stream to Fort Vancouver, where they

"^^^■^": .^/^^^!^-^riSk:^^^l^^^

arrived October 21>. The fortune of Mr. Wyeth wa.s invested in this enterprise and
he had brought a stock of goods with him not well adapted to the Indian market. He
was hospitably received by the Hudson's Bay Company. The next spring he left for
the East, a financial bankrupt, deserted by all of his followers except two. It is not
recorded that the company's officers in any way contributed towards producing this
result ; but, if they did not, it was because they believed it unnecessary, knowing that
failure would follow without their manipulation. Arriving in Boston, Mr. AVyeth
organized The Columbia River Fishing and Trading Comi^any, with a view of con-
tinuing operations on the Pacific coast under the same general plan that had formerly
been pursued by Astor, proposing, however, to add salmon fishing to the fur business.
A brig, called the JIaij Decres, sailed for the Columbia river with stores, and Mr.
Wvetli, Avith sixty experienced men, started for the same place across the continent in
1834. Near the head waters of Snake river, he established Fort Hall as an interior
trading post, named in honor of one of his partners, where he left twelve men and a
stock of goods. He then pushed forward to the Columbia and erected a fort on
Sauvie's island at the mouth of the Willamette river, which he called Fort Williams, in
honor of another partner ; and again tlie American flag waved over soil west of the
Rocky mountains.

The officers of the company again received him with much h(jspitality, and
though they continued to treat liim with courtesy, this did not prevent them from
taking the steps necessary to j^rotect the company's interests. Fort Boise was estab-
lished as an opposition to Fort Hall and drew the bulk of the trade of the Indians
of Snake river. (3n the Columbia Wyeth found that the natives were so completely
under the control of the company that he could establish no business relations with
them whatever. In two years he was compelled to sell all his possessions, including
Fort Hall, to the rival company, and abandon this second effort at joint occupation.

In 1835 the two rival American companies were consolidated as the American
Fur Company, Bridger, Fontenelle and Briggs lieing the leadei's. The retirement of
Bonneville and the sale of Fort Hall by Mr. Wyeth left only the consolidated com-
pany and a few " lone traders" to compete with the English corporation. For a few
years longer the struggle was maintained, but gradually the Hudson's Bay Comj^any
absorbed the trade until the American trappers, so far as organized eff(irt was con-
cerned, aliandoned the field.

The chief secret of the failure of Americans and the success of the Englisii — and
it is best to be candid in this matter — was the radical difference in their methods of
conducting the business. The American trapjiers were, to a large extent, made up of
a class of wild, reckless and brutal men, many of them fugitives from justice. With
them might made right, and the privilege of shooting Indians was considered an in-
herent right which should be exercised as often as circumstances permitted. They
were insubordinate anil quarrelsome, and the histories of their adventurous lives, even
those written for the glorification of Kit Carson, Joe Meek, Jim Beckwourth and oth-
ers, convince us that these men composed the lowest stratum of American s(jciety.
Irving, in one of many similar passages, says : " The arrival of the supplies gave
the regular finish to the annual revel. A grand outbreak of wild debauch ensued
among [the niduntaineeis ; drinking, dancing, swaggering, gand)ling, ([uarreling and

126 OREGON.

fighting. Alcohol, which, from its jiortable qualities, containing the greatest quantity
of fiery spirit in the smallest compass, is the only liquor carried across the mountains,
is the inflammatory Ijeverage at these carousals, and is dealt out to the trappers at four
dollars a pint. When inflamed by this fiery beverage, they cut all kinds of mad
pranks and gambols, and sometimes burn all their clothes in their drunken bravadoes.
A camj), recovering from one of these riotous revels, presents a serio-comic spectacle ;
black eyes, broken heads,"lack lustre visages." Alcohol was a leading article of mer-
chandise, and the annual assemblage at the points of rendezvous and the meetings
with Indians for the purposes of trade, were invariably the scenes of drunken de-
bauchery like the one described. Many impositions were practiced on the Indians,
and the men, being irresponsible and without restraint, were guilty of many acts of
injustice. The Indians learned neither uprightness nor morality from contact with
them, and had respect only for their bravery.

On the other hand the servants of the Hudson's Bay Company were men, chiefly
half-breeds and French Canadians, who had been reared in the business, as were their
fathei-s before them, and cheerfully submitted to the rigid discipline maintained by the
company. It was the j^olicy of the company to avoid all trouble with the natives, to
whom they gave no liquor whatever, and, by just and even generous treatment, bind
the Indians to them by a community of interest ; yet it never let an act of treachery
or bad faith go unpunished. Thus, by an exhibition of justness and moral behavior
on one hand and power on the other, it maintained unquestioned authority among the
savages of a hundred tribes and over thousands of miles of wilderness. Had the
American companies pursued the same jjolicy as their great English rival, far different
would have been the result of their enterprises. Fortunately for America she was not
compelled to rely upon reckless trajjpers for her dominion in Oregon. Fur traders
could not gain it for her, nor could they hold it for Great Britain. Plows and not
steel traps were to settle the question between them.

During these years of competition in the fur business, diplomacy was also at
work. Several expeditions were sent to the Rocky mountains by the United States
government, to report upon the nature of the country and its adaptability to settlement.
From these as well as from the reports of trappers, the idea was spread abroad, that
the country west of the rocky mountains was valueless except for its fur-bearing ani-
mals ; and this idea was fostered by the Hudson's Bay Company both in America and
England. The consequence was that when the ten years of joint occupancy had ex-
pired, such was the apathy of congress and American statesmen on the subject, that
an indefinite extension of the treaty was agreed upon, to be terminated by either party
upon giving notice one year in advance. This was done in 1828, and it was while the
extended treaty was in force that Bonneville and Wyeth made a practical test of its
-workings.

CHAPTER XVI.

OREGON MISSIONS AND SETTLEMENTS.

Four Flathead Indians in St. Louis -The Methodist Mission-^The Congreg-ational Missions Whitman Takes
a Cart to Fort Boise— American Settlements— The Wallamette Cattle Company Progress of Missions and
Settlements — Advent of Catholic Missionaries — Population in 1840.

There siuklenly a])2:)eared in St. Louis in 1832 four Flathead Indian:::. It was a
common sight to see Indians of a dozen tribes lounging about the streets of that busy
mart and mingling with the conglomerate crowd of idlers ; but these were different.
They had not come to carouse or drink the white man's firewater. In the far off land
of Oregon the Flatheads had heard that the white man had a different religion and a
different God from that of his red brother, and that this was the secret of his knowl-
edge, wealth and power; and these four braves had been delegated by their tribe to go
in search of someone who would teach them this new religion, that they, too, might
become a mighty people. Two of them died in the city, and the other two set out, de-
jected, upon their return home without the great book of the white man, and one of
them perished on the return journey. But their pilgrimage was not fruitless, for both
the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, a Congregational organi-
zation, and the ^Methodist Board of Missions, were aroused to a knowledge of the fact
that Oregon was an inviting field for missionary labor. Each delegated suitable per-
sons to proceed to Oregon and lay the foundation for missions among the natives.

The Methodists were prepared first, and in 1834, Rev. Jason Lee, Rev. Daniel
Lee, Cyrus Shepard, and P. L. Edwards started for Oregon in company with the
party of Nathaniel J. VVyeth, previously alluded to. They left Mr. Wyeth's party,
who were delayed in the erection of Fort Hall, and jiassed over the remaining distance
in company with A. R. McLeod and Thomas McKay of the Hudson's Bay Company,
reaching Fort Walla Walla September 1, and by boats, Vancouver, the fifteenth day
of the same month. A location for a mission was immediately selected at a point on
tlic Willamette river, some sixty miles above its mouth, and ten below the site of Salem.
Their mission goods, brought around by Wyeth's vessel, landed at this place twenty-
one days after their arrival at Vancouver. A house was soon constructed of logs, 32
feet by 18, which they entered Novendjer 3, there being at the time but ten feet of the
roof completed. So eager were they to commence labor as missionaries, that before
the roof was all on their building, Indian children were received into it as pupils. De-
cember 14, Jason Lee, while at Vancouver, baptized twenty-one persons, among whom
were seventeen children ; and he received a donation of twenty dollars to aid in mis-
sionary work from persons living at the fort.

They were in Oregon with the sole purpose of elevating the mental and s|iiritual
condition of the inhal>itaiits, I'egardlcss of nationalitv, rare, color or coiiditioii. Be-

cause of this, tliev were kindly aud hospitably received by all, including the in(jnster
corporation. Their plan was to educate the Indian, and teach him how to make the
soil yield a livelihood. To do this they proposed opening a school for children, where
they could live, learn to read, worship God, and till the soil. To carry out this design,
it was necessary for the missionaries to become farmers, and produce the food required
for themselves aud the support of their pupils. The agricultural branch of their en-
terprise was inaugurated in the spring of 1835. Their first harvest yielded them two
hundred and fifty bushels of potatoes, a quantity of wheat, barley, oats and peas, to
which were added six barrels of salmon procured from the Indians. In September of
this year, the mission people were attacked by an intermittent fever, from which four
Indian pupils died. This was a misfortune, ai it caused the superstitious natives to
look with mistrust upon an institution where the Great Spirit killed their children in-
stead of benefiting them. One Indian visited the mission for the purpose of killing
Daniel Lee and Cyrus Shepard because his little brother had died there, but was pre-
vented from doing so by a companion, when he crossed to the opposite side of the river
and murdered several of his own race, to satisfy his wrath at the " wdiite medicines."
During the fall of 1835, a 16 by 32 foot addition was built to their premises, and the
close of the year found them with comfortable log buildings, a reasonable supply of
provisions for the Avinter and only ten pupils.

The parties sent by the American Board were Rev. Samuel Parker aud Dr. Mar-
cus Whitman, wdio started in 1835 with a trapping party of the American Fur Com-
pany, intent upon selecting some suitable place for the founding of a mission. They
reached the rendezvous of the company in the Rocky mountains, where they en-
countered a large band of Nez Perce Indians, who had come there to trade with the
company. There was a young chief among them, whom the whites called Lawyer,
because of a ma'rked ability displayed by him in repartee and discussion, which could
readily be awakened into active play by reflecting upon the acts or motives of his Ameri-
can friends. Upon consultation with this chief, it was determined to establish a mis-
sion among his people, this decision being hastened because of the peculiar character-
istics of the two missionaries, which rendered them ill-calculated for traveling com-
panions. To carry out this arrangement Dr. Whitman was to return home, accom-
panied by two Xez Perce boys, and come back the ensuing year with the necessary
material and associates for an establishment. Rev. Samuel Parker was to continue his
way to the Pacific ocean, decide upon the 1jest point for a mission among the Xez
Perces, and then send, by Indian source, a letter of advice, to meet Whitman in the
mountains on his way out the next season.

To carry out this arrangement, they separated August 22, 1835, one turning back
upon the trail that led him to a martyr's grave ; the other, with an interpreter, push-
ing forward in a triumphal journey among the Indians to the sea. No white man,
before or since, has been received with such cordiality and ceremonious distinction, as
greeted Mr. Parker on his way through Eastern Oregon to Walla Walla. His ap-
proach to an Indian village w^as the signal for a general display of savage grandeur
and hospitality. Since their first knowledge of white men they had seen that the pale
face belonged to a superior race, and had heard that he worshiped a Great Spirit, a
mysterious unseen power, that made him what he was. The Indians now hoped to

OREGON. 129

Icani, ti)(i, how they eoiild gam favor with this being, whose smiles gave power to his
followers ami happiness to those who worshiped him. Now, when one had eome among
them, who, they believed, could bring them the favor of the white man's God, they
received him everywhere with outstretched arms and demonstrations of unbounded joy.
Services were held at vaiuous places, and the eager natives were to a degree inducted
into the mysteries of the white man's religion.

October 5, Mr. Parker, Avith his interpreter and guides, passed down the Touchet
river and reached Fort ^^^alla AValla the next day, where he was hospitably received
l)y P. C. Pambrun, the commandant in charge. From there he continued his way
down the Columbia to Fort Vancouver, where he spent the winter. In the sirring he
revisited the Nez Perces, went as far north as Spokane and Colville, and returning to
Vancouver embarked for home by way of the Sandwich islands in June, 1836.

The efforts of Dr. Whitman resulted in his obtaining the necessary funds and as-
sociates for the establishment of two missions in Oregon. He had married in Febru-
ary, 1835, ]Miss Narcissa Prentiss, a lady of refined nature, rare accomplishments and
with commanding appearance. She possessed a voice of winning sweetness, was
affable to all with whom she came in contact, firm in purpose and an enthusiast. Her
sympathies had been enlisted in the cause, and yielding all her fair prospects for the
future in the country where she was born, she devoted her life to banishment and iso-
lation among savages, in a country so far aAvay that its name even conveyed to the
mind a sense of loneliness and mystery. The associate workers were W. H. Gray and
Rev. H. H. Spalding and wife, a lady of much firmness of character and excellently
adapted for the labor she had chosen to perform.

The missionary party brought with them three wagons, eight mules, twelve horses
and sixteen cows. In those wagons were farming utensils, blacksmith and carpenter
toals, seeds, clothing, etc., to enable them to become self-supporting. In crossing the
plains they traveled under protection of the American Fur Company. Sir William
Drummond, an English nobleman, under the alias of Captain Stewart, with a com-
panion and three servants, and Major Pilcher, a celebrated mountaineer, were also of
the party. On arriving at Fort Laramie the wagons were all abandoned except one,
which was retained by Dr. Whitman for the ladies to ride in, and then the fur com-
pany concluded to, try the experiment of taking one of their carts along. After
leaching the trappers' rendezvous on Green river, the mission party were introduced
by Captain Wyeth — who was on his way home after having sold his forts and trap-
ping interests to the Hudson's Bay Company — to Thomas McKay and A. R. McLeod,
with whom they were to continue to the Columbia river. Upon resuming the journey,
the Doctor, contrary to a manifest hostility evinced to his doingso, insisted upon taking
the one remaining wagon with him, but was obliged on reaching Fort Hall, to reduce
it to a two-wheel truck, and the men insisted upon his leaving even that when they
reached Fort Boise. Such was the result of the first effort to cross the continent Avitli
a wagon, which demonstrated that the Rocky mountains were not an impassable bar-
rier to American immigration. The party arrived a Fort Walla Walla September 2,
1836, where they were received by Mr. Pambrun with demonstrations of heartfelt
cordiality that caused the travel-worn missionaries to feel as though they had reached
n homo in tliis land of the setting sun. A few days later they passed down the Co-

130 OREGON.

luinbia to Fort Vaneouver, where Dr. McLaughlin gave them a most hearty welcome.
Here the ladies enjoyed his hosjiitalities for some time, while the gentlemen returned
to Fort Walla Walla to seek suitable locations for their two missionary establishments.
With the aid of Mr. Pambrun, and after careful examination of the country, they de-
cided to establish one mission among the Cay uses and one among the Nez Perces. The
former was located at the junction of Walla Walla river and Mill creek, near the
present city of Walla Walla, and was called Waiilat]3u, the jiroper name of the Cayuse
tribe, being placed under the direction of Dr. Whitman and his noble wife ; the latter,
called Lapwai and put in charge of Mr. Spalding and wife, was situated on the Clear-
water, above the site of Lewiston. By December suitable accommodations were pro-
vided at both missions and the founders began their labor of love.

Additions were also made to the force at work in the Methodist mission in the
Willamette valley. In July, 1836, Elijah White and wife, Alanson Beers and wife,
W. H. Wilson, Annie M. Pitman, Susan Downing and Elvina Johnson, sailed from
Boston, but did not reach their destination until May, 1837. The scourge of fever
still afflicted them, and the mission in consequence bore an ill repute among the natives,
in spite of the most earnest and conscientious efforts of its people to win the good will
of those whom they had come so far to benefit.

The attaches of the missions were not the only Americans that were now living in
Oregon. From the trappers who had visited the coast, some of them with the Ameri-
can companies, some as roving " free trappers " and still others in the service of the
Hudson's Bay Company, knowledge of the beautiful and fertile Willamette and Sacra-
mento valleys was sj^read along the American frontier, and the thoughts of many of
the hardy western people were turned in this direction. The breaking nj) of the
American trapping companies left many mountaineers without an occupation, unless
they engaged in trapping on their own account, and these men began to find their
way into California and Oregon for the purpose of building for themselves homes, the
majority of them, however, going to the former country. At the close of 1836 there
were some thirty white persons in Oregon not connected with the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany, including the missionaries and their wives.

The presence of these j^eople, in the capacity of settlers, was regarded by the com-
pany with much disfavor; not simply because they were Americans, but because the
settlement of any persons whatever, over whom the company had no control, was cal-
culated to weaken its hold upon the natives. It had been the policy of the company
to discourage settlements, even of its own employees whose terms of service had expired,
though it could exercise control over them almost as much as when still in its service;
consequently the settlement of Americans beyond the 23ale of their authoritj^ was very
distasteful. The Methodist missionaries, also, who had been so cordially welcomed by
the company's officers when it was supposed they were simply to engage in missionary
work, now that they encouraged these settlers and sided with them against the company,
were classed in the same category and deprived of the aid of the company's influence.

In order to be still more independent of the company, Ewing Young, who ^«^s
the leading spirit among the American trappers who had located in the valley, and
Jason Lee, the missionary, set on foot a scheme to j^rocure a sujiply of cattle from
California. The effort was opposed by the company, but with the aid (if William A.

OREGON. 131

Slocum, an officer of t\u- United State-; navy, wIid advauL'cd money and gave a free
pas.sage to California in liis vessel t(j those who went after the cattle, it was completely
successful, and the " Wallamette Cattle Company" was organized. The party which
went to California was under the leadership of Mr. Young, and was composed of P.
L. Edwards, who kept a diary of the expedition which is now preserved in the State
Library at Sacramento and numbered 23,989, Hawchurst, Carmiehael, Bailey, Ere-
(juette, DesPau, AVilliams, Tibbetts, Gay, Wood, Camp, Turner, and enough others to
make a company of about twenty men, all inured to the dangers and privations of
mountain life. They collected a baud of 700 cattle at three dollars per head, and,
with much labor and difficulty succeeded in bringing 600 of them into the valley.
They had much trouble with the Indians on Siskiyou mountain and along Rogue
river, and Gray, without any foundation charges the compaay with stirring up the
Indians to cut them off. TJie fact is, as Edwards' diary plainly shows, the trouble
grew out of the un^^rovoked murder by one of the party of an Indian who visited
their cimp on Klamath river. Turner, Gay and Bailey were three of four survivors
of an American party which had been attacked on Rogue river two years before, and
shot this Indian in a spirit of revenge. It is certainly difficult to trace any agency of
tlie company in this affair, or to assign any other cause than wanton murder for their
trouble with the Indians.

The arrival of the cattle was hailed with joy by the settlers, as it guaranteed
them comj^lete independence of the company and demonstrated that Americans could
settle in the Willamette valley with an assurance of being self-supporting. At the
close of 1837 the independent population of Oregon consisted of forty-nine souls about
equally divided between missionary attaches and settlers. Of these Rev. David Leslie
and wife. Rev H.''K. W. Perkins and Margaret Smith were new recruits for the Meth-
odist mission.

In 1838, W. H. Gray, who had returned East the year before to j)rocure rein-
fin-cements for the Congregational missions, came out with Revs. E. Walker, Gushing
Eells and A. B. Smith and the wives of the four, also a young man named Cornelius
Rogers and John A. Sutter, the honored pioneer of the Sacramento valley. At Fort
Hall, Gray's associates were induced to trade the fourteen cows tbey were bringing
with them, all of a superior breed, for a like number of cows to be delivered to them
by the Hudson's Bay Company after reaching their destination. They failed to fully
appreciate the advantages of that trade until after arriving at Whitman's mission in
September, where they found that only an e.xpert vaquero could catch one of the wild
heifers roaming with the herds belonging to the company.

The Methodists enlarged the field of their missionary labors in the spring of
1838, by establishing a mission at The Dalles, under the charge of Daniel Lee and H.
K. W. Perkins. The Protestant method of benefiting the Indians, aside from merely
preaching Christianity to them, was to teach them how to live, how to procure food
and clothing by their own labor intelligently applied, so that they should no longer be
subjected to alternate seasons of feasting and famine. They thought to make a farmer
of the Indian, and thus destroy his roving habits. To do this it was necessary that
those being taught l)e supported by them until they could be rendered self-sustaining ;
and this re(iuired money. Con^eijuently wlien it was derided to establisji a mission at

The Dalles, Kev. Jasou Lee started East to procure financial aid, accompanied by P,
L. Edwards, F. Y. Ewing and two Indian boys. During his absence his wife died,
also Cyrus Shepard, who was teaching the school at the Willamette mission.

In 1838 a new element was introduced into Oregon in the form of a delegation of
Catholic missionaries ; and immediately upon their arrival was begun anew that same
sectarian rivalry, that battle of religious creeds, which has caused so much of blood-
shed, horror and misery in the world. Intolerance and bigotry were displayed as much
by the one side as the other, and responsibility for the terrible results which followed
their contest for spiritual control of the Indians rests equally upon the shoulders of
both. Revs. Francis N. Blanchet and Modest Demers reached Vancouver on the
twenty-fourth of November, having come overland from Montreal, and having bap-
tized fifty-three persons during their passage down the Columbia. The Congregational
missions were extended during the year by the establishing of a new one among the
Spokane Indians by Eevs. Gushing Eells and E. Walker.

During the following year but little advancement was made, either in missionary
work or settlements. The Catholics traveled extensively among the tribes, while the
Protestants confined their attention to their various stations. The Indians learned
that the white man had two ways of going to heaven, and naturally were themselves
divided in opinion as to which was the better one; or, as they themselves expressed it,
all their bad feelings towards each were stirred up, and those quarreled who had be-
fore been friends. A printing press was presented in 1839 to the Protestant mission-
aries, by their co-laborers in the Sandwich islands ; and it was taken to Lapwai with
its accompanying material, and there E. O. Hall and Messrs. Spalding and Rogers used
it to ]3rint portions of the New Testament in the Nez Perce tongue. This was the first
appearance of the typographic art on the Pacific coast of North America.

In the latter part of 1839 A. B. Smith located among Ellis' band of Nez Perces
and began missionary work. The next year he undertook to cultivate a small patch
of ground, when he was ordered by Ellis to desist upon pain of death. Smith not
only abandoned his potato patch but his mission as well, and departed for the Sand-
wich islands. The failure of this effort gave great satisfaction to the Catholics, as is
indicated by the published writings of Father P. J. DeSmet, who had located a mis-
sion among the Flatheads the same year.

In June, 1840, Jason Lee returned with a party of forty-eight, of whom eight
were clergymen and nineteen ladies. The names of the new arrivals in 1839 were
Rev. J. S. Griffin and wife and Mr. Mungar and wife, who had intended to found a
mission on Snake river but had not succeeded, Ben Wright, Lawson, Reiser, Geiger,
Sidney Smith, Robert Shortess and Blair, a blacksmith. In 1840 the arrivals were
more numerous. They are thus named and summarized by Gray :

" In 1840, Mrs. Lee, second wife of Rev. Jasou Lee; Rev- J. H. Frost and wife ;
Rev. A. F. Waller, wife and two children; Rev. W. W. Kone and wife; Rev. G. Hines,
wife and sister ; Rev. L. H. Judson, wife and two children ; Rev. J. L. Parish, wife and
three children; Rev. G. P. Richards, wife and three children; Rev. A. P. Olley and
wife. Laymen — Mr. George Abernethy, wife and two children ; Mr. H. Campbell
wife and one child; Mr. W. W. Raymond and Avife; Mr. H. B. Brewer and wife; Di-.
J. L. Babcock, wife and (me child; Mrs. Daniel Lee; Mrs. David Carter; Mrs.

> ^

^ :

^'- iWHii ^\¥

Joseph Holman ; Miss E. Pliillips. Methodist Episcopal Protestant mission — llev-
Harvy Clark and wife ; P. B. Littlejoh.n and wife. Independent Protestant mission —
Robert Moore, James Cook and James Fletcher, settlers. Jesuit priests — P. J. DeSmet,
Flathead mission. Rocky mountain men with native wives : William Craig, Doctor
Robert Newell, Jos. L. Meek, Geo. Ebbert, William M. Dougherty, John Larisou,
(leorge Wilkinson, a Mr. Nicholson, and Mr. Algear and William Johnson, author of
the novel, 'Leni Leoti; or, the Prairie Flower.' The subject was first written and read
liefore the Lyceum at Oregon City, in 1843." He classifies the population as follows :
American settlers, twenty-five of them with Indian wives, 36 ; American women, 33 ;
children 32; lay members, Protestant missions 13; Methodist ministers 13; Congrega-
tional 0; American physicians 3; English physicians 1; Jesuit priests, including
DeSmet, 3; Canadian French, (30; total Americans, 137; total Canadians, including
priests, (J3 ; total population, not including Hudson's Bay Company operatives, within
what now is a portion of Montana and all of Idaho, Washington and Oregon, 200.

CHAPTER XML

OREGON FOR THE UNITED STATES.

First Efforts at Government Petition to Congress in 1840 -Plans of the Hudson's Bay Company- Unfounded
Charges against the Company -Unsuccessful Attempt to Organize in 1841 -Visit of Commodore Wilkes
The Hudson's Bay Company Imports Settlers from Red River Visit of Governor Simpson Whitman's Win-
ter Journey The Ashburton Treaty Emigrants and Wagons for Oregon Names of Oregon Residents in
1843- A Provisional Government Organized -Treaty of 1846 Gives Oregon to the United States.

In 183!> was made the first attemj)t at any form of government, otlier than the
enforced rules of the Hudson's Bay Company. The ^Methodist missionaries in the
Willamette valley selected two persons to act as magistrates, and though this was done
without the co-operation of the settlers the action was acquiesced in and their authority
respected. The most important case before this tribunal was that of T. J. Hubbard,
who was tried for murder before Rev. David Leslie, having killed a man who was at-
tempting to enter his house through the window. The jury ac(iuitted the prisoner on
the grounds of justifiable homicide. In 1840, soon after this event, a petition was
forwarded to congress, asking the establishment of a territorial government in Oregon,
which had the effect of drawing attention to this country and of reminding those who
had formerly thought the Willamette valley a desirable spot for a home that now was
a good time to emigrate.

There was still another ami iiKire iiu|iiirtaiit effect prudiiced l»y this petition and
the apparent delermiiiatioii of the Aiiieriean settlers to have a government of tlieir

13i OREGON.

owa, and that Wci.s to arouse the Hudson's Bay Company to a realization of the pre-
carious condition of its authority in Oregon. It began to recognize the fact that as a
company it could not control these new-comers nor could it prevent the influx of others
who were inimical to its interests. This conviction wrought a change in policy, and
with it was made a bold stroke to gain possession of the prize. It has been stated that
the company was opposed to settlements of any kind, preferring that the Country
should remain uninhabited by all save the natives and actual servants of the corpora-
tion. It had even gone so far as to send to Canada at its own expense employees
whose terms of service had expired, to prevent them from settling here. It is to
this policy, wise if all that was desired was to keep this region as a fur-bearing wil-
derness, but very unwise if it was the expectation to gain possession of it for Great
Britain, that England can charge the loss to her of the disputed territory. Had the
company from the first planted colonies in the Willamette like those of Lord Selkirk
at Winnipeg, or had it even encouraged the settlement of its discharged employees,
there would now have been enough British subjects to have controlled local affairs and
laid a foundation for a claim of permanent ownership. Daring the past few years the
company had been gradually realizing the unpleasant fact that it could not hope to exclude
settlers, and had therefore withdrawn its objection to the location of permanent homes
here by its old servants, and, preferring them to the Americans, had even encouraged
them in so doing ; but now it realized that it must adopt a more comprehensive and
aggressive policy, it must colonize Oregon with subjects of Great Britain or submit to
being itself expelled from the country. A deep plan was laid, which, but for the fore-
sight and energetic patriotism of Dr. Marcus Whitman, would have been completely
successful ; and this plan was to bring a large emigration from the Red River settle-
ments to overwhelm the Americans, and at the same time to open negotiations between
the bome governments for a final settlement of the mooted question of title, in which
the preponderance of English subjects here was to be urged as a reason why Great
Britain's claim to the country should be conceded.

There was nothing criminal nor even dishonorable in this ; and yet some Ameri-
can writers speak of this and other steps of the company to obtain or retain possession
of Oregon as though they were the most heinous of crimes. The subjects of Great
Britain certainly had as much right to make an effort for possession as had citizens of
the United States ; and the actual fact is that they were less active, less aggressive than
were the Americans, to which is due in a large measure their defeat in the contest.
Because they made these efforts, parties who were equally active on the other side,
looking at the matter through their party-colored spectacles, have charged the com-
pany's officers with the commission of grave crimes, not the least of which was the
inciting of Indians to murder American settlers. These charges rest upon evidence
which is entirely inferential and circumstantial, and even of this kind of testimony
the greater portion is favorable to the company. There is no evidence to prove that
the officers of the Hudson's Bay Company were guilty of any acts that would not be
looked upon in any country and by any people as proper and necessary for the pro-
tection of their interests could they have been placed in the same position. It is
certainly questionable if some of those gentlemen, whose bitter enmity caused them to
make these charges, had possessed the great power of the company, whether they

OREGON. 135

would liave used it as liouorably aud c-ouscieutiously as did Dr. McLaughlin and his
associates. It is certain that these narrow-minded views were not entertained by the
master mind of them all, the martyred Whitman. His brain was large enougli to
keep 2)ersonality and politics separate, and he honored and respected these men and en-
joyed their personal friendship even while doing his utmost to defeat their plans. It
was the active part taken in the struggle by the Protestant missionaries which had lost
them the supjjort of the company, and caused that organization to encourage and aid
the Catholics, who, as subjects of Great Britain, could be counted upon to further the
company's interests. It was this union of interest and action which was the true
cause of the bitter enmity of the Protestant historians to the company. The mutual
intolerance of the two creeds, and the especially bitter spirit engendered by the contest
for control of the Indians, sufficiently explain why those whose minds were thus edu-
cated to believe their Catholic opponents could be guilty of fiendish acts, should
extend their prejudices to the company which supported them. It is time these un-
founded charges were dropped and prejudice give way to reason. The workings of
the company's new plan will be unfolded as this narrative progresses, as will also the
circumstances which have called out these precautionary remarks.

Although so few white people resided in Oregon at this time, still the objects
which brought them here had resulted in their division into four classes, with interests
to a greater or less extent adverse to each other. The Hudson's Bay Company, the
Catholics, the Protestant missionaries, and the independent settlers, constituted the
four interests, aud they were elements not easy to harmonize. The first two seemed
to have but the one opinion, though there were a few members of the Catholic church
who were favorable to American rule. The Methodist mission had served as a rallying
point for settlers, who cared nothing for the religious creed it represented, their object
in seeking homes in the Willamette having been to better their worldly condition.
Such favored the mission influence to the extent only that it served their purpose of
settling in the country. In February, 1841, Ewing Young died, leaving considerable
property and no heirs. This naturally raised the (][uesti()n of what was to be done with
his estate and who was to take charge of it. He was neither a Catholic, a Protestant,
nor a Hudson's Bay Company employee ; he had only been an American citizen, was
ilead in Oregon, and what was to be done ? Had he been one of the company's em-
ployees it would have attended to the property ; if he had belonged to the Catholic
family the priests would have taken charge ; if a Methodist, the mission could have
a<lministered ; but, as he was an outsider, and as iio one had the color of right to
oificiate, it became a matter in which all were interested aud a cause for public action.
His funeral occurred on the seventeenth, and after the burial an impromptu meeting-
was held, at which it was determined to organize a civil government over Oregon, not
including the portion lying north of the Columbia river. A •Committee was to
constitute the legislative branch of the government; a governor, a supreme judge
with probate powers, three justices of the peace, three constables, three road commis-
sioners, an attorney-general, a clerk of the courts and public recorder, one treasuier
and twi) ovcrseei's of tlic ponr were to constitute its official machinery, (lentlemeu
were put in iioniiiiation fur mII of these offices and the meeting adjourned until the

next day, at which time, citizens of the valley were notified to be present at the Amer-
ican mission house to elect officers, and to perfect the governmental organization.

At the time and place specified, nearly all the male population south of the Colum-
bia congregated, the several factions in full force. Most prominent among these was
the Methodist mission ; second, the Catholics as allies of the Hudson's Bay Company ;
and third, the independent settlers whose interests were not specially identified with
either. The proceedings of the previous day were not fully indorsed. Two were added
to the legislative committee, and the following gentlemen were chosen to serve in that
capacity : Revs. F. N. Blanchet, Jason Lee, Gustavus Hines, Josiah L. Parrish, and
Messrs. D. Donpierre, M. Charlevo, Robert Moore, E. Lucia, and William Johnson.
The main point at issue seemed to be, as to which faction should secure the governor-
ship. Revs. Leslie and Hines, and Dr. J. L. Babcock were the Methodist mission
candidates and were liable to divide the vote snfficiejitly to secure the selection of Dr.
Bailey, a man of strong English prejudices, who w^as opposed to religion generally, but
could secure the French Catholics, and a majority of the settlers' votes. He drove the
latter jDortion of his support into the opposition ranks, however, by his want of modesty
in nominating himself for that position. It was finally determined to have no gover-
nor, and Dr. J. L. Babcock having been chosen supreme judge, was instructed to ren-
der decisions in matters coming before him in accordance with the New York code.
This was an order easy to give, but difficult to fulfill, as there was not a New York
statute book in Oregon at the time. The Methodists having secured the bench, and
prevented the adverse interests from securing the executive branch of the embryo
government, the Catholic influence was given a representation in Geo. LeBreton, who
was made clerk of the court and recorder. Wm. Johnson was chosen from the Englisli
element for the office of high sheriff, and the following named gentlemen were elected
constables : Havier Laderant, Pierre Billique, and Wm. McCarty. The offices of
justice of the peace, road commissioner, attorney general, treasurer and overseer of the
poor, were not filled. After the transaction of this business, and the issuance of an
order for the legislative committee to draft a constitution and code of laws, the meeting
adjourned until the following June.

On the first of June, the people assembled at the new building near the Catholic
church in the Willamette, and learned that the committee had failed to either form
laws, or even meet for that purpose. Rev. F. N. Blanchet withdrew as a member of it,
and Dr. Bailey was chosen to fill the vacancy. The committee was then ordered to,
" Confer with the commodore of the American squadron and John McLaughlin, chief
factor of the Hudson's Bay Company, with regard to forming a constitution and code of
laws for this community." The meeting then adjourned until the following October.
In 1838 the United States Government sent out a fleet of vessels, under the command
of Commodore Chaxles Wilkes, on an extensive voyage of exploration which lasted five
years. Wilkes was now in Oregon with the purpose as much of ascertaining the actual
state of affairs as of gathering geographical and scientific information. The committee
applied to him for advice, and after visiting the Catholic and Protestant missions and
consulting with Dr. McLaughlin, the missionaries and settlers, he ascertained that
though all had participated in the meetings, but a minority, chiefly connected with the
Methodist missions, were in favor of an organization. He therefore advised them to

M4,

\A

I

OREGON. 137

wait until they were stronger and until the "government of the United States should
throw its mantle over them." The committee accepted his advice, the adjourned meet-
ing never convened, and the attemi^t at organization was abandoned.

During 1841 the first regular emigration from the East arrived, consisting of 111
])ersons, and these came without wagons, since it was the general belief both in England
and the United States, that wagons could not cross the continent to Oregon. This idea
was industriously supported by English authors, several of whom published books on
Oregon about this time, and was strongly urged as a reason why Oregon should be
given up to the British. As our statesmen derived their information on this subject
chiefly from English sources, they held the same views about the inpracticability of
overland emigration from the United States to Oregon. Sir George Simpson, governor
of the Hudson's Bay Company, visited the country the same year, crossing overland
from Montreal. Just *3ast of the Rocky mountains he passed the emigrants the com-
pany was importing from Red river, consisting of " twenty-three families, the heads
being generally young and active." They reached Oregon in September, and spent the
winter on the Cowlitz. During 1841, also, there was the greatest clash yet experienced
between the rival religions. The Catholics went among the Cascade Indians, who had
been under the influence of the Methodist mission at The Dalles, and induced them to
renounce the Protestant for the Catholic creed. This served to intensify the bitterness
existing between the religious factions. The Catholic missions were rapidly growing
in power and influence, the Methodist were as rapidly retrograding, while the Congre-
gational missions in the interior were progressing but slowly.

There was quite an immigration in 1842. Seventeen families started from Inde-
pendence in March, with Stephen H. Meek as a guide. At Green river they were
overtaken by Fitzpatrick's brigade of trappers on the way to Fort Hall, and several of
the families cut up their wagons and made pack saddles, and packing their effects on
their animals, accompanied the brigade. The remainder of the wagons Meek conducted
safely through Sublette's cut-off', reaching Fort Hall the same day as the others, much
to their surprise. Here, owing to the positive assertions of the company's officers that
it was impossible to take wagons any further, they were abandoned, and the party pro-
ceeded without them, passing down Snake river, across the Blue mountains, down the
Umatilla and Columbia to The Dalles, and by the Mount Hood trail to Oregon City,
which town was laid out that fall by L. W. Hastings, one of the new emigrants,
as agent for Dr. McLaughlin. The greater portion of this party, being dissatisfied
with the rainy winter, were guided to California in the spring by INIeek. Among these
emigrants was Dr. Elijah White, who had authority to act as Indian agent, being the
first official of the United States government to enter Oregon.

We now approach the turning point in the long struggle for possession of this
region, and as in the most popular accounts truth and fiction have been sadly mixed,
the fiction will be given first and the reality afterwards. Gray's History of Oregon
says: "In September, 1842, Dr. Whitman was called to visit a patient at old Fort
AValla AA' alia. While there a number of boats of the Hudson's Bay Company, with
several chief traders and Jesuit priests, on their way to the interior of the country, ar-
liveil. While at dinner, the overland express from Canada arrived, bringing news
that the emigration fiom the Red river settlement was at Colville. This news excited

138 OREGON.

unu.sual joy among the guests. One of them — a young priest — sang out : ' Hurrah for
Oregon, America is too late; we have got the country.' 'Now the Americans may
whistle; the country is ours!' said another. Whitman learned that the company had
ai-ranged for these Red river English settlers to come on to settle in Oregon, and at the
same time Governor Simpson was to go to Washington and secure the settlement of the
question as to the boundaries, on the ground of the most numerous and permanent
settlement in the country. The Doctor was taunted with the idea that no power could
prevent this result, as no information could reach Washington in time to prevent it.
'It shall be prevented,' said the Doctor, ' if I have to go to Washington myself.'' 'But
you cannot go there to do it,' was the taxinting reply of the Briton. 'I will see' was
the Doctor's reply. The reader is sufficiently acquainted with the history of this man's
toil and labor in bringing his first wagon through to Fort Boise, to understand what he
meant when he said, ' I will see.' Two hours after this conversation at the fort, he dis-
mounted from his horse at his door at Waiilatpu. I saw in a moment that he was fixed
on some imi^ortant object or errand. He soon explained that a special effort must lie
made to save the country from becoming British territory. Everything was in the
best of order about the station, and there seemed to be no important reason why he
should not go. A. L. Lovejoy, Esq., had a few days before arrived with the immigra-
tion. It was proposed that he should accompany the Doctor, which he consented to do,
and in twenty-four hours' time they were well mounted and on their way to the States.''

Such is the fiction upon which has been founded a most extended controversy, the
result of which has been to show that Dr. Whitman was moved to take this journey bv
a deep and gradually formed resolution and that long and thoughtful consideration and
not the sudden impulse ascribed by Gray had led him to form the resolution. That
this scene depicted by Gray is a pure fiction is evident for several reasons: — First, be-
cause the Red river immigration was all in and reached the Cowlitz in Septembei',
1841, as surviving members testify, and there was no emigration from there in 1842 ;
second, because Archibald McKinlay, who was in charge of the fort and was a warm
personal friend of Dr. Whitman, says that at the time of the visit sjjoken of there was
no one at Walla Walla but the half dozen regular attaches of the fort, and that the
Montreal express did not arrive until two weeks after Whitman had departed for the
East, during which time Mrs. Whitman remained his guest and then proceeded down
the river under its protection; third, because the question of such a journey had been
discussed by Whitman and his associates at a special meeting for that purpose several
weeks before and the journey agreed ujjou and a day set for the departure. Let us
pass from the realm of fiction to the domain of facts.

Dr. Whitman was a true American, an enthusiastic patriot and lover of his
country's institutions. From the time he first set foot in Oregon to the hour of his
death, the Americanization of this fair land was one of his proudest hopes. Dr. Wil-
liam C. McKay, son of Thomas ]McKay, says that in 1838 his father, who was then in
charge of Fort Hall, decided to send him to Scotland to be educated. When they
reached Waiilatpu, where they were to sei^arate, William to go by the Manitoba route
and his father to Fort Hall, Dr. Whitman strongly urged McKay to send his son to
the United States to be educated, and "make an American of him," since Oregon would
surelv belong to the Americans. McKav was convinced, William's destination Avas

OREGON. 139

clianged and lie ])r(j(,'eeded by the way of Fort Hall to the States. He received his
education at Fairfield, X. Y., where Whitman himself had attended school. This in-
cident reveals the Doctor's abiding faith in the destiny of Oregon. Gifted with a
pliilosojihical mind and keen perceptive faculties, he gathered from the visit of Gov-
ernor Simpson and the arrival of Red river immigrants in 1841, an inkling of the
plans of the company for ac(juiring Oregon. His mind dwelt on the subject during
the following spring and summer, and when the American immigrants arrived that
tall with intelligence that negotiations were in progress between the United States and
Great Britain to settle definitely the boundary line, he realized the deep-laid jilan of
the company. With A. Lawrence Lovejoy, one of the immigrants who had stopped
near the mission to recruit, he often convei'sed about the situation, and one day asked
if he would accompany him on a journey back to the States. Though the winter
season was just coming on, Lovejoy consented to thus aid him in his effort to save Ore-
gon to the United States. Whitman summoned his associates from Lapwai and the
Tshimakain mission among the Spokane Indians, to consult in regard to the matter.
Spalding, Gray, Eells and Walker soon assembled at Waiilatpu, and when the Doctor
laid before them his plan for saving Oregon, they unanimously opposed it, on the
ground that missionary work and politics should not be confused with each other. To
this Whitman replied that his first duty was to his country, and if his mission inter-
fered with the discharge of it he would resign. Knowing his inflexible character and
deep convictions of duty, they dared no longer oppose him for fear of losing the
master spirit of their mission, and gave a reluctant assent. That he might have official
authority to leave his charge and that the real object of his journey might not be
known by the officers of the Hudson's Bay Company, they delegated him to proceed
to Boston to transact certain business in the interest of the missions. The day of his
departure was set for the fifth of October, and the several members departed to their
fields of labor to prepare reports of their missions for him to take to Boston. The pro-
ceedings of this meeting were recorded in a book, which Avas lost at the time of the
Whitman massacre. The papers having arrived, and all being in readiness for the
journey, Whitman went to Fort Walla Walla, some authorities say to administer to a
sick person, while Dr. Geiger, whom Whitman left in charge of Waiilatpu during his
absence, says that it was to interview McKinlay in regard to the situation. At all
events, his conversation with McKinlay whetted his anxiety to depart, and he re-
solved to start at once. Twenty-four hours later he and his traveling companion
turned their backs ujion Oregon and entered boldly u])on a journey they knew would
be attended with hardships and suffering such as they had never before experienced .
The only record of that memorable journey is a letter written by Mr. Lovejoy, and the
only accounts of what Whitman did and where he went come from those who con -
ver.sed with him on the subject and several who saw him at different places in the East
inchuling the emigrants with whom he returned to Oregon. From the noble martyr
himself there comes no word, save a letter written while at St. Louis the following
spring, yet these are enough to place him first on the list of those whose names should
be linked with Oregon so long a^ history siiall hot. Of that memoral)le journey Love-
joy says

" We left AVaiilatpu October 3, 1842, traveled rapidly, reached Fort Hall in eleven
days, remained two days to recruit and make a few purchases. The Doctor engaged a
guide and we left for Fort Wintee. We changed from a direct route to one more
southern, through the Spanish country via Salt Lake, Taos and Santa Fe. On our
way from Fort Hall to Fort Wintee we had terribly severe weather. The snows
retarded our progress and blinded the trail so we lost much time. After arriving at
Fort AVintee and making some purchases for our trip, we took a new guide and started
for Fort Uncumpagra, situated on the waters of Grand river, in the Spanish country.
Here our stay was very short. We took a new guide and started for Taos. After
being out some four or five days we encountered a terrific snow storm, which forced us
to take shelter in a deep ravine, where we remained snowed in for four days, at which
time the storm had somewhat abated, and we attempted to make our way out upon the
high lands, but the snow was so deep and the winds so piercing and cold we were
compelled to return to camp and wait a few days for a change of weather. Our next
effort to reach the high lands was more successful ; but after spending several days
wandering around in the snow without making much headway, our guide told us that the
deep snow had so changed the face of the country that he was completely lost and could
take us no further. This was a terrible blow to the Doctor but he was determined not
to give it up without another efibrt. We at once agreed that the Doctor should take
the guide and return to Fort Uncumpagra and get a new guide, and I remain in camp
with the animals until he could return ; which he did in seven days with our new
guide, and we were now on our route again. Nothing of much import occurred but
hard and slow traveling through deep snow until we reached Grand river, which was
frozen on either side about one-third across. Although so intensely cold, the current
was so very rapid about one-third of the river in the center was not frozen. Our guide
thought it would be dangerous to attempt to cross -the river in its present condition, but
the Doctor, nothing daunted, was the first to take the water. He mounted his horse —
the guide and myself shoved the Doctor and his horse off the ice into the foaming
stream. Away he went completely under water, horse and all, but directly came up,
and after buffeting the rapid, foaming current he reached the ice on the opposite shore
a long way down the stream. He leaped from his horse upon the ice and soon had
his noble animal by his side. The guide and myself forced in the pack animals and
followed the Doctor's example, and were soon on the opposite shore drying our frozen
clothes by a comfortable fire. We reached Taos in about thirty days, suffered greatly
from cold and scarcitv of provisions. We were compelled to use mule meat, dogs, and
such other animals as came in our reach. We remained at Taos a few days only, and
started for Bent's and Savery's Fort, on the head waters of the Arkansas river. When
we had been out some 15 or 20 days, we met George Bent, a brother of Gov. Bent,
on his way to Taos. He told us that a party of mountain men would leave Bent's Fort
in a few days for St. Louis, but said we would not reach the fort with our pack ani-
mals in time to join the party. The Doctor being very anxious to join the party so
he could push on as rapidly as possible to Washington, concluded to leave myself and
guide with the animals, and he himself taking the best animal with some bedding and
a small allowance of provision, started alone, hoping by rapid travel to reach the fort
in time to join the St. Louis party, but to do so he would have to travel on the Sab-

'-'-v^^^-l^;**-

t

V

i

OREGON. 141

bath, sDiuethiug we had not done before. Myself and guide traveled on slowly and
reachetl the fort in four days, but imagine our astonishment when on making in([uiry
about the Doctor we were told that he had not arrived nor had he been heard of. I
learned that the party for St. Louis was camped at the Big Cottonwood, forty miles
from the fort, and at my request Mr. Savery sent an express, telling the party not to
proceed any further until we learned something of Dr. Whitman's whereabouts, as he
wished to accompany them to St. Louis. Being furnished by the gentlemen of the
fort with a suitable guide I started in search of the Doctor, and traveled up the river
about one hundred miles. I learned from the Indians that a man had been there who
was lost and was trying to find Bent's Fort. They said they had directed him to go
down the river and how to find the fort. I knew from their descrijjtion it was the
Doctor. 1 returned to the fort as rapidly as possible, but the Doctor had not arrived.
We had all become very anxious about him. Late in the afternoon he came in very
much fatigued and desponding ; said that he knew that God had bewildered him to
punish him for traveling on the Sabbath. During the whole trip he was very regular
in his morning and evening devotions, and that was the only time I ever knew him to
travel on the Sabbath."

He at once pushed on with the mountaineers, leaving Lovejoy at Bent's Fort,
and reached St. Louis in February. There he inquired eagerly abijut the status of ne-
gotiations on the Oregon question, and learned that the Ashburton-Webster treaty had
been signed on the ninth of the preceding August, been ratified by the senate, and had
been proclaimed by the president on the tenth of November. He was too late by more
than three months to have prevented the treaty; but his journey was not in vain, for
the Oregon boundary had notbaen included in the treaty, had not even -been discussed,
in fact, as appears from Mr. Webster's speeches and correspondence. This intelligence
brought relief to the Doctor's overwrought feelings. There was still an opportunity
for him to accomplish liis purpose. He found great preparations being made all along
the frontier to emigrate to the Willamette valley, notwithstanding the prevailing opinion
that wagons could not proceed beyond Fort Hall. He immediately wrote a small
])amphlet describing Oregon and the nature of the route thither, urging people to em-
igrate and assuring them that wagons could go through, and that he would join them
and be their })ilot. This pamphlet and his earnest personal appeals were efficacious in
adding somewhat to the number of emigrants, though it is a fact that probably the
greater portion of those who started 'from tlie border of Missouri in May never heard
of Dr. Whitman until he joined them on the route ; for the emigration was chiefly
the result of the reports of Oregon received from trappers, letters written to friends in
^lissouri by Robert Shortess, who came out in 1839, and debates in congress the year
before. That AVhitman's efforts added somewhat to the number of emigrants is true,
but that he initiated the movement or even contributed largely to it does not ap[)ear.
He was too late for that; the movement was well under way before his arrival.

After writing his pamphlet his next anxiety was to reach Washington before con-
gress adjourned, so that he might have an opportunity to meet congressmen and urge
upon them the claims of Oregon. He did not undertake to change his apparel, which
is thus described by Dr. William Barrows, who met him in St. Louis : " The Doctor
was in (• larse fur garments and vesting, and l)uckskin brecfhes. He wore a buffalo

142 OREGON.

coat, with a hcad-liood for emergencies in taking a .storm, or a bivonac uap. What
with heavy fur leggings and boot moccasins, his legs filled uji well his Mexican stirrups.
With all this warmth and almost burden of skin and fur clothing, he bore the marks
of the irresistible cold and merciless storms of his journey. His fingers, ears, nose
and feet had been frost-bitten, and were giving him much trouble." Such was Whit-
man when in St. Louis, such was he still when on the third of March he appeared in
Washington, having been to Ithica, New York, to ask for the co-operation of Dr.
Samuel Parker, his first missionary associate, and such was he still later in Boston,
where he treated the rebukes of the officers of the American Board with a quiet con-
tempt that astonished and disarmed them.

He found in Washington that the prevalent ideas of Oregon were far diflferent
from those along the frontier. Public men possessed but little knowledge of the terri-
tory west of the Rocky mountains, and deemed it of but little value because of its sup-
posed sterile soil and inhospitable climate. Such had been the prevailing idea since
Lewis and Clarke had subsisted on dog meat and Hunt's party had experienced such
terrible privations in passing through it; such, also, was the idea fostered by the Hud-
son's Bay Company and urged by England. It was the Great American Desert, fit
only for the abode of Indians and trappers. A year later in a congressional debate it
was asserted that: "With the exception of the land alougt he Willamette and strips
along a few of the water courses, the whole country is among the most irreclaimable
barren wastes of which we have read, except the desert of Sahara. Nor is this the
worst of it. The climate is so unfriendly to human life that the native population has
dwindled away under the ravages of its malaria to a degree which defies all history to
furnish a parallel in so wide a range of country."

To prove the contrary of this and to demonstrate that (Jregon could be settled by
emigration from the States was Whitman's task. He had interviews with Secretary
Webster, President Tyler and many members of congress, in which he urged the im-
portance of securing for the United States as much of the indefinite region known as
Oregon as possible, asserting that its agricultural and timber resources were unbounded.
He told them of the large emigration preparing to start thither, and declared that he
would accompany them and show them a route by which they could take wagons clear
to the Willamette. His earnest protestations made a deep impression upon many,
especially President Tyler, and he was assured that if he could demonstrate these
things it would have a powerful effect upon the solution of the Oregon question.

Whitman then visited Boston to discharge the official object of his journey, and
was severely censured for leaving his mission upon so trivial a pretext. Then, after
spending a few days at home, he hastened to the frontier to join the emigrants, some of
whom had already started and were not overtaken by him till they had reached the
Platte. His appearance among them was the first time the majority of them knew of
the existence of such a man ; yet even these universally acknowledge that his services
as guide and advisor on the route were almost indispensable. Reaching Fort Hall the
earnest representations made by the official in charge that wagons could not cross the
mountains between that post and the Columbia had a most demoralizing effect. Had
it not been for AVhitman many would have changed their destination to California,
while the remainder, leaving their wagons, plows and implements behind, would have

continued the journe}' to Oregon with only what they eouhl paek upon tlieir animals.
Earnestly he [)Ieadcd with them, assured them that he would guide them safely through,
that they had found his counsel good in the past and should trust liim for the future.
They did trust him; the wagons passed on, and after surmounting every obstacle he
led them to the open plain in front of the mission at AVaiilatpu. He had won the day
for his country.

This great train of hardy jjioneers who had come to Americanize Oregon, con-
tained 875 persons, of whom 295 were men over sixteen years of age. A complete
roll of names was taken at the time by J. W. Nesmith, and is as follows :

.[esse A23plegate, Charles Applegate, Lindsay Applegate, James Athey, William
Athey, John Atkinson, William Arthur, Robert Arthur, David Arthur, Amon But-
ler, George Brooke, Peter H. Burnett, David Bird, Thomas A. Brown, Alexander
Blevins, John P. Brooks, Martin Brown, Oris Brown, J. P. Black, Layton Bane,
Andrew Baker, John G. Baker, William Beagle, Levi Boyd, William Baker, Nich-
olas Biddle, George Beale, James Braid)', George Beadle, Boardman, William

Baldridge, F. C. C'ason, James Cason, William Chapman, John Cox, Jacob Champ,
L. C. Cooper, James Cone, JNIoses Childers, Miles Carey, Thomas Cochran, L. Clymour,
John Copenhaver, J. H. Caton, Alfred Chappel, Daniel Cronin, Samuel Cozine,
Benedict Costable, Joseph Childs, Ransom Clark, John G. Campbell, Chap-
man, James Chase, Solomon Dodd, William C. Dement, W. P. Doughertv, William
Day, James Duncan, Jacob Dorin, Thonras Davis, Daniel Delaney, Daniel Delaney,
Jr., William Delaney, William Doke, J. H. Davis, Burrell Davis, George Dailey,

John Doherty, Dawson, Charles Eaton, Nathan Eaton, James Etchell,

Solomon Emerick, John W. Eaker, E. G. Edson, Miles Eyres, John W. East,
Niuiwon Everman, Ninevah Ford, Ephram Ford, Nimrod Ford, John Ford,
Alex. Francis, Abner Fraziei-, W^illiam Frazier, William Fowlei-, William J
Fowler, Henry Fowler, Stephen Fairly, Charles Fendall, John Gantt, Chiley B. Gray,
Enoch (iarrison, J. W. Garrison, W. J. Garrison, William Gardner, Samuel Gardner,

Mat. Gilmore, Richard Goodman, Major Gilpin, Gray, B. Haggard, H. H. Hide,

William Holmes, Riley A. Holmes, John Hobson, William Hobson, J. J. Hembre,
.lames Hembree, Andrew Hembre, A. J. Hembre, Samuel B. Hall, James H<mk,
William P. Hughes, Abijah Hendrick, James Hays, Thomas J. Hensley, B. Holley,
Henry Hunt, S. M. Holderness, Isaac Hutchins, A. Husted, Josejih Hess, Jacob
Hann, John Howell, William Howell, Wesley Howell, W. G. Howell, Thomas E.
Howell, Henry Hill, William Hill, Almoran Hill, Henry Hewett, William Hargrove,
A. Hoyt, John Holman, Daniel Holman, B. Harrigas, Calvin James, John B. -Jack-
son, John Jones, Overton Johnson, Thomas Keyser, J. B. Keyser, Pleasant Keyser

Kelley, Kelsey, A. L. Lovejoy, Edward Lenox, E. Lenox, Aaron Layson,

Jesse Looney, John E. Long, H. A. G. Lee, F. Lugur, Lew Linebarger, John
Linebarger, Isaac Laswx'll, J. Loughborough, Milton Little, Luther, John Lau-
derdale, Mc(Jec, William J. ^Martin, James Martin. -Iiilius .Martin, Mc-
Clelland, F. McClelland. John 15. Mills, Isaac Mills, William .V. Mills, Owen
Mills, G. W. McGarey, (Jilbert Mondon, Daniel Matheny. .Vdani Matheny, J. X.
Matheny, -losiah Matheny, Henry Matheny, A. J. Mastire. John .McHaley, Jacob
Myers, John .Manning, J^ames Manning, M. M. IMcCarvcr, George .McCorrle, Wil-

liam Mays, Elijah Millicau, William McDaniel, D. McKissie, Madison Malone,
John B. MeClane, William Manzee, John Melntire, John Moore, ^\\ J. Matney, J.W.
Nesmith, W. T. Newby, Noah Newman, Thomas Nayler, Neil Osborn, Hugh D.
O'Brien, Humi^hrey O'Brien, Thomas A. Owen, Thomas Owen, E. ^V. Otie, M. B.
Otie, Bennett O'Neil, A. Olinger, Jesse Parker. AVilliam Parker, J. B. Pennington, R.
H. Poe, Bamuel Painter J. R. Patterson, Charles E. Pickett, Frederick Prigg, Clayborii
Paine, P. B. Reading, S. P. Rodgers, G. W, Rodgers, AVilliam Rnssell, James Roberts,
G. W. Rice, John Richardson, Daniel Richardson, Philip Ruby, John Ricord, Jacob
Reid, John Roe, Solomon Roberts, Emseley Roberts, Joseph Rossin, Thomas Rives,
Thomas H. Smith, Thomas Smith, Isaac W. Smith, Anderson Smith, Ahi Smith, Robert
Smith, Eli Smith, William Sheldon, P. G. Stewart, Dr. Nathaniel Sutton, C. Stimmer-

man, C. Sharp, AV. C. Summers, Henry Sewell, Henry Stout, George Sterling,

Stout, Stevenson, James Story, Swift, John M. Shively, Samuel Shirley,

Alexander Stoughton, Chauncey Spencer, Hiram Strait, George Summers, Cornelius
Stringer, C. AV. Stringer, Lindsey Tharp, John Thompson, D. Trainor, Jeremiah Teller,
Stephen Tarbox, John Umnicker, Samuel Vance, AVilliam Vaughn, George Vernon,
James Wilmont, William H. AVilson, J. W. Wair, Archibald Winkle, Edward Williams,
H. AVheeler, John Wagoner, Benjamin AVilliams, David AVilliams, William AVilson,
John Williams, James Williams, Squire Williams, Isaac Williams, T. B. Ward, James
White, John (Betty) Watson, James Waters, AVilliam Winter, Daniel Waldo, David
Waldo, William AValdo, Alexander Zachary, John Zachary.

Add to these the following settlers residing here when the others arrived :

Pleasant Armstrong, Hugh Burns, Brown, AVilliam Brown, — — Brown,

J. M. Black, William Baldra," James Balis, Dr. W. J. Bailey, Brainard, Medo-

rem Crawford; David Carter, Samuel Campbell, Jack Campbell, AVilliam Craig, Amos

Cook, Aaron Cook, Conner, William Cannon, Allen Davy, William Doty,

Richard Eakin, Squire Ebbert, John Edwards, Philip Foster, John Force, James

Force, Francis Fletcher, George Gay, Joseph Gale, Girtman, Felix Hathaway,

Peter H. Hatch, Thomas Hubbard, Adam Hewitt, Jeremiah Horegon, Joseph Holman,

David Hill, AVeberly Hauxhurst, Hutchinson, William Johnson, King,

Kelsey, Reuben Lewis, G. W. LeBreton, Jack Larrison, Joseph L. Meek, F.

X. Mathieu, John AlcClure, S. AV. Moss, Robert Moore, IMcFadden, AVilliam

McCarty, Charles McKay, Thomas McKay, Morrison, J. AV. Mack,

Newbanks, Robert Newell, James A. O'Neil, F. AV. Pettygrove, Dwight Pomeroy,

Walter Pomeroy, Perry, Rimmick, Osborn Russell, J. R. Robb, Robert

Shortess, Sidney Smith, Smith, Andrew Smith, Andrew Smith, Jr., Darling

Smith, Spence, Jack Sailor, Joel Turnham, Turner, Hiram Taylor, Cal-
vin Tibbetts, Trask, C. M. AValker, Jack AVarnei-, A. E. AVilson, David

Winslow, Caleb Wilkins, Henry AVood. B. AVilliams.

Also add the following members of Protestant missions :

Dr. Marcus AVhitman, A. F. Waller, David Leslie, Hamilton Campbell, George
Abernethy, William H. Wilson, L. H. Judson, W. H. Gray, E. Walker, Gushing
Eells, Alanson Beers, Jason Lee, Gustavus Hines, H. K. AV. Perkins, M. H. B. Brewer,
Dr. J. L. Babcock, Dr. Elijah White, Harvey Clark, H. H. Spalding, J. L. Parrish,
H. AV. Raymond.

TVV

H. Gate's Flouring Mill, Roseburg.

OREGON. 145

The above list includes nearly every male resident of Oregon in 1843, exclusive
of the ex-employees of the Hudson's Bay Company and those still in its service.

On the heels of the emigrant train, came the exploring party of Lieutenant John
C. Fremont, who had explored the Rocky mountains the year before. After spending
a few days at Vancouver, he passed south, crossed the Cascades to Eastern Oregon,
continued south into Nevada, and then with much labor and suffering, crossed the snow-
bound Sierra Nevada to Sutter's Fort in the Sacramento valley. Though he earned
the title of Pathfinder, he found his way to Oregon clearly marked by the wheels of
tlie wagons that had preceded him.

E irly in 18i3 the effort to organize a provisional government was renewed by the
American settlers, who were unaware of the great reinforcements already on the way
to join them. Even the missionaries were not trusted in the primitive councils and
oparations of the organizers. The known hostility of every interest in Oregon to a
government not under control of such interest, caused the settlers to plan with great
caution and execute with extreme care. It became necessary for them to deceive every,
one, except a select few, in regard to their designs, in order to obtain a meeting of the
settlers under circumstances that would not arouse the suspicion of those adverse to
such action, and array them in active hostility. The number and influence of such
wore sufficient, when combined, to strangle the movement at its birth, A singular de-
vice was resorted to. Wild animals had been destroying the young stock, and those
who were wealthiest suffered most from such depredations. The Methodist mission-
aries ,and Hudson's' Bay Company were consequently more anxious than the other
settlers to be relieved of this scourge. There was but one sentiment, every one wished
the depredators exterminated, and to do it necessitated a united action, an assembling
of the people, and an organized movement.

The conspirators circulated a notice calling upon resident to meet for this pur-
pose at the house of W. H. Gray on the second of February, 1843. The meeting took
place and a committee of six was chosen to perfect a plan for exterminating wolves-
baars and panthers, and then call a general meeting of the settlers to whom their con-
clusions were to be submitted. That committee consisted of W. H. Gray, William

H. Wilson, Alansou Beers, Joseph Gervais, a Rocky mountain hunter named

Barnaby, and a Frenchman named Lucie, who had formerly beer a member

of Astor's expedition. With the appointment of this committee, and a general ex-
change of views upon the subject of wolves, bears, jianthers, and the best way to get
rid of their destructive raids upon stock, the meeting adjourned till the first Monday
in March, when the people were to meet at the house of Joseph Gervais. At the ad-
journed meeting, after the organization had been completed, one of the gentlemen
present addressed the settlei's, stating that no one would question for a moment the
rightfulness of the proceedings just completed; it was a just, natural action taken by
the people to protect their live stock from being destroyed by wild animals ; but while
they were so solicitous about their stock, would it not be a wise thing to take steps for
the protection of themselves and their families. The result of this speech was the ap-
pi)intment of J. L. Babcock, E^lijah White, Janies A. O'Neil, Robert Shortcss, Robert
Xt'wcll. Lucie, Josepli Gervais, Thomas Hubbard, C. INIcRoy, W. H. (iray.

146 OREGON.

Smith and George Gay, as a eoiiimittee to consider the propriety of orgauizing a

government.

The committee soon met at Oregon City, many others being jiresent, and a lively
discussion ensued. Rev. Jason Lee, George Abernethy, Revs. Leslie and Hines, and
Mr. Babcock, took strong grounds against the movement and declared in favor of a
delay of four years. By striking the office of governor from the list, a unanimous
vote was secured to call a meeting on the second of May. At the appointed time the
people assembled, the two factions being almost equal in strength, being fifty-two
Americans in favor of organization against fifty, chiefly Hudson's Bay Company men,
opposed to it. Like Cameron, the great ex-boss of Pennsylvania politics, who said
that a majority of one was all the majority he cared for, the Americans were satisfied
with a majority of two, and proceeded with the work of organizing, their opponents
leaving in disgust. The result of this action was the following organization:

Legislative Committee — Robert Shortess, Robert Xewell, Alanson Beers, W. H.
Gray, James A. O'Xeil, Thomas Hubbard, David Hill, Robert Moore, William
Dougherty. Supreme Judge with probate powers — A. E. Wilson. Clerk and Re-
corder— George W. LeBreton. Sheriffs — Joseph L. Meek. Treasurer, W. H. Wilson.
Magistrates — A. B. Smith, Hugh Burns, Compo and L. H. Judson. Con-
stables— Squire Ebbert, Bridgers, Reuben Lewis and F. X. Mathieu. Major — •

John Howard. Captains — William McCarty, C. McRoy and S. Smith.

The committee was instructed to report on the fifth of July at Champoeg. At
the time appointed the committee made its report, which was adopted, in which the
laws of Iowa were declared in force so far as they applied, and the executive manage-
ment of the government entrusted to a committee of three instead of a governor. For
this committee, David Hill, Alanson Beers and Joseph Gale were chosen, and at last
the American settlers in Oregon had a government. The struggle was over, for the
great emigration which a few weeks later came in with Whitman settled the question
of American supremacy and the stability of the newly organized government.

The first regular election was held May 14, 1844, to choose officers of the provis-
ional government, at which 200 votes were cast. P. G. Stewart, Osborn Russell and
W. J. Bailey were chosen executive committee ; Dr. John E. Long, clerk and re-
corder; James L. Babcock, su^jreme judge; Philip Foster, treasurer; Jose2:)h L.
Meek, sheriff". The territory had been partitioned into four legislative districts. The
Tualatin district included what now is Washington, Multnomah, Columbia, Clatsop
and Tillamook counties, and the jjersons chosen to represent it were Peter H. Burnett,
afterwards governor of California, David Hill, M. Gilmore and M. M. McCarver. The
Champoeg district, which has since been divided into Linn, Marion, Lane, Josejihine,
Coos, Curry, Benton, Douglas and Jackson counties, was represented by Robert Xewell,
Daniel Waldo and Thomas D. Keizer. In the Clackamas district was what is now
the eastern part of Oregon, a portion of Montana, and all of Idaho and Washington
territories. This immense region with its few settlers was represented by A. L. Love-
joy, Whitman's companion in 1842. The legislative committee elected met at the
house of Felix Hathaway, June 18, 1844, and chose M. M. McCarver speaker of the
house. A nine days' session followed, when they adjourned until December of the
same year. On the 16th of December the legislative committee met again, this time

OREGON. 1^17

at the house of J. E. Lung in Oregon City, wlien a message was submitted to them
from the executive committee, in which an amendment of the organic law was rec-
ommended. A seven days' session followed, during which an act was passed calling
for a committee to fi'ame a constitution. Several acts were passed requiring submis-
sion to a popular vote to render them valid, among which was a change from the tri-
umvirate to gubernatorial executive, and from a legislative committee to a legislature,
which was adopted by the i)eople.

The immigration of 1844 consisted of 800 people, of whom '2oO were ablc-ljodied
men. The following list contains the names of the greatei- portion of them :

Alderman, Bird, Nathan Buzzard, Charles Burch, Rol)ert Boyd,

William Black, Blakely, George W. Bush, Thomas Boggs, William Bowman,

Sr., William Bowman, Jr., Ira Bowman, Elijah Bunton, Joseph Bunton, William Bun-
ton, Charles Buich, Capt. C. Bennett, Francis Bordran, Joseph Bartrough, William
Bray, Nathan Bayard, Adam Brown, Peter Bonnin, David Crawford, Lewis Crawford,

Daniel Clark, Dennis Clark, Clemens, James Cave, Joel Crisman, Gabriel

Crisman, William Crisman, Aaron Chamberlain, Patrick Conner, Samuel B. Crockett,

Wm. M. Case, William Clemens, Dougherty, Doty, Jas .Davenport, Dr.

Dagon, Daniel Durban, Edward Dupuis, C. Emery, Moses Edes, C. Evernian, John
Eades, Abr. Eades, Henry Eades, Clark Eades, Solomon Eades, David Evans, N. D. Evans,
Robert Eddy, Jno. Ellick, Jno. Fleming, Nathaniel Ford, Mark Ford, Jas. Fruit, '"Doc"
Fruit, Jenny Fuller, I. N. Gilbert, David Goff", Samuel Goff, Marion Gofi', David Grant,
Mitchell Gilliam, Cornelius Gilliam, Smith Gilliam, Wm. Gilliam, Porter Gilliam, Wm.

Gage, Jesse Gage, W. H. Goodwin, Gillespie, James Gerrish, Jno. Gerrish, Martin

Gillahan, William Gillahan, Charles Gilmore, Alansou Hinjuan, A. F. Hedges, Jacob
Hutton, Fleming Hill, J. C. Hawley, Jacob Hoover, T. Holt, James Harper, Joseph
Holman, John Howard, James Hunt, Norris Humphrey, Jacob Hammer, Herman
Higgins, William Higgins, George Hibler, John Inyard, Abr. Inyard, Peter Inyard,
William Johnson, James Johnson, David Johnson, Daniel Johnson, James Johnson.
John Jackson, David Jenkins, William Jenkins, Henry Jenkins, David Kindred, Bart,
Kindred, John Kindred, Daniel Kinney, Barton Lee, John Lousenaute, Charles Lewis,
William Morgan, Theophilus ]\IcGruder, Ed. McGruder, John Minto, Joshua McDaniel,

Elisha ]\IcDaniel, Mrs. McDaniel, ]Mc]Mahan, Nehemiah Martin, Samuel ]\rcSwain,

James McAllister, R. W. Morrison, ^lichacl ]Moor, James W. Marshall, Lafe^]Mo]'eland,

Westley Mulkey, Luke Mulkey, Murray, Mudgett, George Neal, Attey. Neal,

Calvin Neal, Robert Neal, Alex. Neal, Peter Neal, George Nelson, Cyrus Nelson,
John Nichols, Frank Nichols, Benjamin Nichols, Ruel Owless, Henry Owens, James
Owens, John Owens, John (^wens, Joel Perkins, Sr., Joel Perkins, Jr., John Perkins,

David Parker, Priest, Joseph Parrot, S. Packwood, T. Packwood, R. K. Payne,

William Prather, Theodore Prather, Eaben Pettie, Amab Pettie, J. Rowland, E. Rob-
inson (Mountain), T. G. Robinson (Fatty), Ben Roliinson, Willard H. Recs, Parton

Rice, Mac Rice, Rice (Old Man), Ramsey, Ramsdell, Franklin Sears,

Jackson Shelton, William Sebring, John Scott, Levi Scott, M. T. Sinnnons,

Springer, J. S. Smith, Charles Smith, Peter Smith, William Smith, Noyes Smith,
Texas Smith, Henry Saffron, Big Sis, James Stewart, William Saunders, Joshua Shaw,
A. C. R. Shaw (Sheep), Wash. Shaw, Thomas Shaw, B. F. Shaw. (apt. William Shaw,

James Stephens, Sager (died on Green river ), Charles Saxton, Vincent Snelling,

Benjamin Snelling, Snooks, Jerry Teller, Sebrin Thornton, O. S. Thomas, John

Thorp, Alvin Thorp, Theodore Thorj), Mortimer Thorp, Milton Thorp, Cooper Y.
Trnes, Benjamin Tucker, Long Tucker, Thomas Vance (died on the Platte), George

Waunch, Poe AVilliams, Williams, Harrison Wright, Eichard Woodcock, James

Welsh, James Walker, Sr., James Walker, Jr., Robert Walker, Henry Williamson
Joseph Watt, Warmbough, Thomas AVerner.

At the election held June 3, 1845, a total of 504 votes were cast, and George
Aberuethy was chosen the first governor of Oregon. The other officers were, John E.
Long, secretary; Francis Ermatinger, treasurer; J. W. Nesmith, judge; Marcus Ford,
district attorney ; S. W. Moss, assessor ; Joseph L. Meek, sheriff". Two new districts, or
as they were subsequently called, counties, were created, being Clatsop and Yamhill.
A new code of laws was framed by the legislature then elected, and was adopted by the
people by a vote of 255 to 52. A memorial to congress was then adopted, praying for
the formation of a regular territorial government, which was carried to ashington by
Dr. E. White. The legislature also created Polk and Lewis counties, the latter em-
bracing all of Washington west of the Cascade mountains. Joseph L. Meek, the sheriff,
was instructed to take a census of the population. By this it apj^ears that there wei-e
2,110 people in Oregon, 1,259 males and 851 females.

A train of 480 wagons and some 3,000 people crossed the plains in 1845, guided
by Stephen H. Meek, a brother of the sheriff, the same who had taken the wagons to
Fort Hall in 1842. At Fort Hall about one-third severed themselves from the train
and went to California, being under the command of William B. Ide, of bear flag
notoriety, and guided by Greenwood, the trapper. Meek undertook to guide them by
a new route across the Blue and Cascade mountains, a route over which he had never
passed. He lost his way and the emigrants started out on their own responsibility.
The majority of them by a terrible struggle, succeeded in passing down John Day
river to the Columbia. Even this episode has been seized ujion hj the anti-Hudson's
Bay Company men, and the charge made that Meek was employed by the company
to cause the destruction of this train in the mountains. The fact is that if the emi-
grants had only trusted him a few days longer, the guide would have fulfilled all the
promises he made them. As it was they came near hanging him, and he is roundly
abused by the survivors of the train even to the present day.

The Hudson's Bay Company was enjoying a thriving trade with the emigrants
passing by their posts at Fort Hall, Boise and Walla Walla, especially in purchasing
for almost nothing the worn out cattle, or taking them in exchange for wild cattle
which were to be delivered by the chief factor at Vancouver. The feeling against the
company was very bitter ; and a number of men who had settled in the extreme
southern end of the Willamette valley, among whom Jesse and Lindsay Applegate
were leading spirits, determined to open a new route to Oregon from Fort Hall.
They organized a small party, which passed through Umpqua and Rogue river val-
leys, along Klamath, Tule and Goose lakes, and across northern Nevada to Fort Hall,
where were found a large number of emigrants, numbering 2,000 souls and having 470
teams and 1,050 cattle. About one-half the number passed down the Humboldt to Cali-
fornia, in separate trains, among which was the Donner party, of whom so many

perished in tlie inountaini^. Of the remainder the greater portion followed the old
ti'ail down Snake river and reached their destination after encountering the usual
hardshijis of the trip. A train of 150 people with forty-two wagons tried the new
route and found it a long one, almost devoid of grass and water until they reached
Goose lake. They suffered severely and their cattle, half-starved and feeble, could
scarcely pull the wagons along ; nor was this the end, for upon reaching the canyon
of the Umpqua mountains they found it almost impossible to proceed and many of
them remained a long time in the mountain fastness, themselves and their stock in a
deplorable condition, while others only reached the Willamette by abandoning every-
thing. Much abuse has been heaped upon the heads of the men who induced the
emigrants to try this new route, but it is evidently undeserved, at least so far as it im-
putes to them unworthy motives. They passed over the route on horseback and e\i-
dently did not realize how more frequent grass and watering places must be for a train
of wagons than for horsemen. However, this route through Nevada was a few years
later used by thousands of emigrants entering Northern California and Southern
Oregon, though, of course, the good camping places were well known by that time.
As for the Umpqua canyon, wagons were taken through it by Stephen H. Meek in
1843, and would have been easily jxissable by this party had their stock been strong, in-
stead of being barely able to stand upon their feet, such, at least, as were not lying on
the burning alkali deserts of Nevada. There has been too much of this imputing of
bad motives for the conduct of those who differed in opinions in the pioneer days ; and
if these reckless charges could be credited, instead of being j^roperly classed as the bitter
fruit of sectarian or political prejudice, we would be compelled to believe that Oregon
was peopled ]with the moral refuse of society instead of the brave and noble-hearted
men and women we well know them to have been.

Though the Oregon question had been practically settled by the American immi-
grants, it was not officially disposed of until 1846. For several years it was warmly
discussed at every session of congress and received much prominence in the newspapers.
The people at large, as well as a few members of congress, adopted a very belligerent
tone and asserted the superior title of the United States to all of the coast south of the
Russian possessions. In the presidential contest of 1844, " Fifty-four forty or fight "
became a party cry, and upon that issue James K. Polk was elected. In his first mes-
sage to congress the new president devoted one-fifth of the space to an exhaustive dis-
cussion of the question, and recommended that the required notice for a termination of
the treaty of joint occupation be given, that military posts be constructed along the
emigrant route and that the national laws be extended over Oregon. The debate which
followed was long and earnest, and it seemed as though war would be the result.
The resolution terminating the treaty of joint occupation passed the house and went to
the senate, where for many days it engrossed the attention of the greatest statesmen of
America. Finally the resolution passed that body, but so modified as to strip it of its
l)ugnacious tone and admit of a compromise. It had occupied the attention of (jongress
for four months and twenty-one days, during which time the whole country had been
engaged in its discussion and the dark cloud of war hovered over the nation. Negotia-
tions continued between the two governments until a treaty was signed on the seven-
tecntli of , Tidy, 184(;. by which the l)oundary line of tlu'4'.»th parallel east of the Rocky

150 OREGON.

mountains was extended to the Pacific, but not including in the United States any por-
tion of Vancouver island.

On the fourth of June, 184(J, officers were elected in the varions counties in Ore-
gon, as well as representatives in the legislature. June 3, 1847, another county and
legislative election was held. At the same time George Abernethy was chosen gover-
nor for a second term, the ojiposing candidate being A. L. Lovejoy, who had a minority
of only sixteen votes. The other officers were: S. M. Holderness, secretary; John H.
Couch, treasurer; George W. Bell, auditor of public accounts; A. Lawrence Lovejoy,
attorney general; Theophilus McGruder, auditor; J. Quinu Thornton, judge of the
supreme court; H. M. Knighton, marshal; Alonzo A. Skinner, judge of the circuit court.
Another large immigration came in 1847 and still another in 1848. On the twelfth
of June, 1848, county and representative officers were chosen for the last time under
the provisional government.

CHAPTER XVIII.

WHITMAN MASSACRE AND CAYUSE WAR.

Sectarian Histories Unreliable — The Battle of the Creeds —Missionaries and Settlers Classed Together Rest
lessness of the Indians — Dr. White's Visit to the Nez Perces Indians Incensed against Americans— Trouble
at Oregon City Disbandment of Methodist Mission — Catholic Method of Converting Savages Growling
Feeling of Hostility among the Cayuses- Catholics Establish a Mission in Opposition to Whitman— Joe
Levffis and his Perfidy — Epidemic among the Cayuses— The Poison Theory — The Massacre at Waiilatpu —
Spalding's Charges and Responsibility of the Catholics— Rescue of the Prisoners by Peter Skeen Ogden
— The Cayuses Prepare for War — The Whites March against the Indians— The Cayuses Settle the Matter
among Themselves— Execution of the Hostages.

The literature of this portion of Oregon's history has tlowed chiefly from sectarian
sources. So bitter became the feelings engendered by the religious contest, that all
accounts of the events of this period are so impregnated with personal feeling as to
render them valueless as history. Their very tone is evidence of unreliability ; and
this apjilies as much to the Protestant as the Catholic writings. They are composed
largely of abuse of the opposite sect, of suppression of or only obscure reference to facts
detrimental to the side from which the writings proceed, and of enlargement of every
trivial circumstance that can be shown to the disadvantage of the opposing party.
That such writings should be dignified with the title of History is a reproach to litera-
ture. A careful examination will satisfy an uni^rejudiced ^^erson that this chapter
reveals as nearly as possible the true facts, and does justice to both ])arties to the con-
troversy.

OREGON. 151

The first gun was tired and tlie nature of the campaign outlined by Dr. Samuel
Parker, the first associate of Dr. Whitman; and this in 1836, before the Catholics had
entered the field. At the mouth of Alpowa ci'eek, on Snake river, he came upon
a burial party of Nez Perces, Avho " had prepared a cross to set up at the grave," and
because the symbol of the crucifixion offended his sight and he feared it would make
" a stejjping-stone to idolatry," he took " the cross which the Indians had prepared and
broke it in pieces." As the Catholics had not yet made their appearance in Oregon
and consequently " didn't know they were hit," this incident is of interest simply to
show the spirit of religious intolerance which held possession of Dr. Parker, and which
after events proved to pervade his successors. When the two Catholic priests. Fathers
Blanchet and Demers, arrived in 1838, the Methodists had missions in the Willamette val-
lev, and at The Dalles, and the Congregationalists had one at Waiilatpu among the Cay-
uses, at Lapwai among the Nez Perces, and at Tshimakain among the Spokaues. The
Protestants were well entrenched, and the Catholics had to enter new fields, of which
there were many, or attack the others direct. It will be seen that they did both.

The Catholic plan of operations is outlined by Father Blanchet himself, who in after
years thus wrote of the duties of the missionary priests : " They were to warn their
fiocks against the dangers of seduction, to destroy the false impression already received,
to enlighten and confirm the faith of the wavering and deceived consciences, to bring
back to the practice of religion and virtue all who had forsaken them for long years
or who, raised in infidelity, had never known nor practiced any of them. ''' * *
In a word they were to run after the sheep when they were in dangei-. Hence their
passing so often from one post to another — for neither the white people nor the Indians
claimed their assistance in vain. And it was enough for them to hear that some false
prophet had penetrated into a [place, or intended visiting some locality, to induce the
missionaries to go there immediately, to defend the faith and [)revent error from
propagating itself." Here is a direct statement from the bisho]) at the head of
the church, that it was the Catholic plan to counteract the influence of the Protestants
where they had already located missions, as well as to hasten to any new point they
might select in order to prevent the founding of new ones. The first overt act of this
kind was made at Nescjualy, only a few months after they arrived. Blanchet says :
" The first mission to Nesqualy was made by Father Demers, who celebrated the first
mass in the fort on April 22, [1889], the day after he arrived. His visit at such a
time was forced upon hira by the establishment of a Methodist mission for the Indians.

'"'- '■' '•' After having given orders to build a chapel, and said mass outside of the
fort, ho [parted with them, blessing the Lord for the success of his mission among the
whites and Lidians, and reached Cowlitz on Monday, the 30th, with tht' conviction
that his mission at Nesqualy had left a very feeble chance for a IMethodist mission
there."

Some ingenious artist auKjug the priests made a picture showing a large tree with
many branches. The different Protestant sects were represented as going up the tree
and out upon the various bi-anches, from which they dropped into a fire, and this fire
was kept burning by a priest who fed it with the hei-etical books of the roasting vii--
tims. This picture tickled the Indians immensely, and among the Xez Perces it bid
fair t(i capturi' the wliole triho. As an offset Mr. Spalding had his wife paint a num-

152 OREGON.

ber of illustrations of prominent bible events, and this panorama soon crowded the
Catholic cartoon from the field. Thus this contest went on for several years. In 1841
the Cascades Indians were won away from The Dalles mission in spite of Mr. Waller's
strenuous efforts to hold them. This same Mr. Waller gave expression to his feelings
on doctrinal points bv cutting down a cross erected by the Catholics at the Clackamas
village.

There was one thing which gave the Catholics a decided advantage among the
natives, and that was the use of symbols and ceremonies, as Blanchet expresses it :
" The sight of the altar, vestments, sacred vessels and great ceremonies, were drawing
their attention a great deal more than the cold, unavailable and long lay services of
Brother Waller." These were more akin to their own ideas of religion than the simple
services of the Protestants. The mystery was fascinating to them, and they preferred
to see the priests " make medicine " than to hear so much " wa wa " from the minis-
ters. By thus working upon the superstitious nature of the savages and making no
effort to suddenly change their habits and time-honored customs, the Catholics gained
a firm hold upon them, and were thus able, gradually, to bring about the desired
change. The Protestants, on the contrary, endeavored to accomplish too much at
once, and having no censers to swing or imposing vestments to wear, could gain l)ut
slight influence over the natives when their opponents were about.

There was still another factor which contributed to the unpopularity of the Protes-
tant missionaries, and one which became stronger as time rolled on, and that was their
connection with American settlers, and their efforts to cultivate the soil. The Indians
did not want white people to settle in the country. They recognized the fact that both
races could not live here, and that if white people came the Indians must go. It was
this feeling which caused Ellis to forbid A. B. Smith to cultivate a patch of ground in
1840. The Hudson's Bay Company encouraged the idea among the Indians that the
missions were but stepping stones to American occupation, and this idea was supported
by the conduct of those in charge of the Methodist mission in the Willamette, which
had become the general headquarters for American settlers. The fur company had
been here for years and had not taken their lands away from them but instead, had
supplied them with a good market for such furs as they might have; yet the Americans,
who were but new comers, were already taking their lands, and more kept arriving
yearly. The outgrowth of this was a feeling of bitterness against the Americans, in-
cluding the Protestant missionaries, in which neither the Hudson's Bay Company men
nor the Catholics were included; and this feeling intensified year by year.

In 1841, Dr. Whitman was insulted and attacked at Waiilatpu in consequence of
trouble between Gray and an Indian. Immediately after he left on his winter journey
and before Mrs. Whitman went to Fort Walla Walla, a Cayuse chief attemj)ted to enter
her room at night, and a few days later the mission mill and its contents, were destroyed
by fire. About the same time Mrs. Spalding, at the Lapwai mission, was grossly in-
sulted and ordered from her own house ; and at another time Mr. Spalding's life was
threatened. Dr. Elijah White, the Indian agent who arrived but a few weeks before,
determined to check this growing spirit of hostility. Accordingly, in November,
accompanied by Thomas McKay, who had left the company's service and settled in the
valley, and six men, he left the Willamette for the interior. At Fort Walla AValla

OREGON.

153

McKiiilay joined them and the party proceeded to Lapwai to hohl a counsel with the
Nez Perces. After a long talk, in which McKay and McKiulay took an important
part, a treaty was entered into whereby whites and Indians were to be equally punished
for offences, and the Nez Perces adopted a system of laws in which the general princi-
ples of right and justice were eml^odied in a form suitable to their customs and condi-
tion. Ellis was chosen head chief to enforce the laws. The i:)arty of Dr. White then
returned to hold a council with the Cayuses. But little was accomplished with them
except to ajipoint the tenth of the ensuing Ajiril for a general council with the whole
tribe. The next tribe visited was the Wascopum, at The Dalies, and these readily
adopted the same laws Dr. White had given the Nez Perces. The result of these
councils was to infuse a sense of security into both the whites and Indians.

The next summer disaffection broke out afresh, owing to the evil counsels of
Baptiste Dorion, a half breed son of Pierre Dorion who had been interpreter for Hunt's
party of the Astor expedition in 1811. This man was interpreter for the Hudson's
Bay Company, and ujion his own responsibility informed some of the Indians about
Fort Walla Walla that the Americans were coming up in the summer to take their lands.
This story spread among the tribes along the base of the Blue mountains and created
great excitement. The young warriors wanted to go to the Willamette and exterminate
the Americans, but were held in check by the older ones. Peo-peo-mux-mux, chief of
the Walla Wallas, visited Vancouver to ascertain the truth of Dorion's statements, and
was informed by Dr. McLaughlin that he did not believe the Americans entertained
any such idea; but if they did he could rest assured that the Hudson's Bay Company
would not aid them in a war of that kind against the Indians. The return of the
Walla Walla chief quieted the excitement to a certain extent, yet a feeling of appre-
hension still remained, and the missionaries sent for Dr. White to make another official
visit to the tribes. He started in the latter part of April, accompanied by Rev. Gus-
tavus Hines, George W. LeBreton, one Indian boy and a Kanaka. Several French
Canadians were to have accompanied them, but were advised by Dr. McLaughlin to
remain at home and "let the Americans take care of themselves."

The result of this visit was to restore the spirit of security, and to insure tranquil-
ity for a time at least. The Cayuses adopted the Nez Perce laws and elected for head
chief Five Crows, who had embraced the Protestant faith and was favorably disposed
towards the Americans. The action of Dr. McLaughlin has been severely censured
and has served as an argument to prove that the Hudson's Bay Company was stirring
up the Indians to drive the Americans from the country. That is certainly putting a
strained construction on it, as will be admitted when it is understood that the Ameri-
can settlers had but a few days before unanimously signed a memorial to congress, in
which Dr. McLaughlin was severely censured. Father Demers arrived from the
interior at this time and informed him that : " The Indians are only incensed against
the Boston people ; that they have nothing against the French and King George peo-
ple ; they are not mad at them, but are determined that the Boston jieople shall not
have their lands and take away their liberties." Is it at all unnatural that, learning
that his people were in no danger and smarting under the unjust charges of the Amer-
icans, he should have said, " Let the Americans take care of themselves?"

154 OREGON.

There was trouble iu the Willamette valley in 1844 which served to still more
embitter the Indians against the Americans. There was a sub-chief of the Molallas
named Cockstock, a man of independent nature and belligerent disposition. He had a
few followers who jjartook somewhat of his spirit, and they were generally the prime
movers in such hostile acts as the natives of the Willamette indulged in. He was
rebellious of restraint, and not friendly to the encroachment of the white settlers. A
relative of his having mistreated Mr. Perkins at The Dalles mission, was sentenced by
the Wasco tribe to be puni.shed according to Dr. White's laws. The sub-chief was
enraged at the whipping his kinsman had received, and set out to revenge the
insult upon the Indian agent. Reaching the agent's Willamette home during his ab-
sence, he proceeded to break every window pane in the house. He was pursued, but
not caught, and became an object of terror to the Doctor. All depredations committed
in the country were charged to this chief, and it finally resulted in the offer by Dr.
White of one hundred dollars reward for the arrest of the formidable Indian. Learn-
ing that he was being accused of acts committed by others, the chief visited Oregon
City March 4, accompanied by four of his band, with the avowed purpose of having
a talk with the whites for the purpose of exculpating himself He entered the town,
staid for about an hour, and then crossed the river to visit an Indian village to procure
an Indian interpreter. He then recrossed the Willamette, when several men under-
took to arrest him and a desperate fight ensued. Cockstock was killed, and his fol-
lowers, after fighting valiantly until the odds became too great, made good their escape.
On the other side George W. LeBreton was killed by Cockstock, and Mr. Eogers, who
was working quietly near by, was wounded in the arm by a poisoned arrow, which
caused his death. It has been asserted that the Molalla chief attacked the town, Init
it requires too much credulit}^ to believe that five Indians would in broad daylight
attack a town containing ten times their number. The whole affair is chargeable to
the rash conduct of a few men who were eager to gain the paltry reward offered by
Dr. White, one of whom paid for his cupidity with his life. Fearing that trouble
might follow, the executive committee of the j^rovisioual government issued a procla-
mation for the organization of a military company. A company was organized on the
tenth of March by citizens who assembled at Champoeg. Nineteen names were en-
rolled, T. D. Keizer being elected captain and J. L. Morrison and Mr. Carson lieu-
tenants. Their services were not required.

In May, 1844, Rev. George Gary arrived by sea to sn23ersede Jason Lee in charge
of the Methodist missions, the latter being already on his way East. The mission
property was immediately sold and the missionary work, which had amounted to little
so far as accomplishments were concerned for several years, was discontinued, excejit
at The Dalles. While the ]\Iethodists were thus withdrawing from the field, the Cath-
olics were largely increasing their force. Among other arrivals for that purpose were
six sisters of the order of Notre Dame, who came to found a convent in the Willam-
ette. As Father Blauchet expresses it : " The schemes of the Protestant ministers
had been fought and nearly annihilated, especially Nesqualy, Vancouver, Cascades,
Clackamas, and Willamette falls, so that a visitor came in 1844 and disbanded the
whole Methodist mission, and sold its jjrojjerty." The Methodists being disposed of
the next thing in order was to get rid of the Cono;reo;ationalists, whose missions were

OREGON. 15.-.

at least holding their own, and one of them, that of Mr. Hpalding, at Lapwai, making
considerable ^jrogress iii civilizing the Xez Perccs.

The most successful missionaries among the aborigines of America have been the
Catholics. The extent of their operations and success of their efforts in this field, are
but partially known to either the Protestant or Catholic world ; and the secret of their
.success lies in the zeal and judgment with which their religion is impressed upon the
uncultivated understanding by ceremonies and .symbols. All Indians believe in im-
mortality, in the power and influence of both good and evil spirits upon the family of
nian. The strongest hold that can be obtained upon that race is to bind them with
cords of belief and fear to an unseen power, let that power be what it may. Their
superstitious natures lead them to attribute their good or ill fortune largely to super-
natural influences, and to enter the door to their understanding of spiritual matters it
is necessary to keep that door ajar for such purpose. Unle.ss the white man's God is
a greater medicine than the Indian's, they want none of him. Unle.ss he can save
them more effectually now and hereafter than the one they have always worshiped,
they would prefer the old God to the new one. They believe that the Great Spirit
helps them to slay their enemies, directs the fish to their snares and the wild game to
their hunting grounds. If he fails so to do, it is because he is angry with them and
must be propitiated. A God that leaves an Indian hungry and a scalp on the head of
his offending enemy, would be void of interest or attraction. The Catholic missionary
teaches the credulous Indian that the white man's God not only takes heed of the hair
that falls from the head of his chosen, but provides for him ; and, being the God not
only of peace, but of battle, makes his arms invincible in waging just war against his
enemies. No stronger inducement can be given to a savage for adopting any religious
faith tiian that of being able by that means to protect himself against his foes, to fill
his stomach, and to go after death to the happy hunting grounds, where there are no
enemies and no fasting. The Catholic missionary not only under.stands all this and
teaches as stated, but he deals out to them religion in homeojaathic doses. Through
the sense of sight, the priest makes an impression upon the brain by ceremonies and
the attractive symbols of his faith. He follows more closely than the Protestant in
the line of what the Indian expects to see as typical of a mysterious something unseen.
It being nearer to his conception and what he has been accustomed to, lie more readily
believes and adojjts it. Using these levers, the missionary moves the Indian by tribes
into the Catholic church. After gaining an ascendancy the priest makes a judicious
use of his influence to eradicate the evil practices of his neophytes, witliout destroying
his chance for accomplishing any good by asking too great a change suddenly. By
such systematic methods as this, the Catholic power had been so increased by 1847 that
there were eight missions and twenty-six priests, sixteen churches and chapels, three
institutions of learning, .5,0.')!) Indian converts and 1,500 Catholic settlers, chiefly
Canadians.

On tlie conti'ary the Protestant missions were making comparatively little head-
way. At each station thei'e wereafeAV who seemed to be in full accord with them, but
the great majority of the tribe were but slightly affected by their preaching. At
Waiilatpu things had been going wrong for some time. From the time Whitman first
went among them there was a small portion of the Cayuses who were opposed to him

156 OREGON.

and liis work. At the heatl of this faction was Tam-su-ky, an influential chief who
lived on Walla Walla river a few miles from the mission. Five Crows, the head chief,
resided on the Umatilla forty miles away. It was this element which made the trouble
in 1842 and burned the Doctor's mill. When Whitman returned with the great train
of emigrants in 1843, these Indians pointed to it as an evidence that his missionary
pretentions were but a cloak for a design upon their liberties, that he was bringing
Americans here who would take away their lands. In them Baptiste Dorion found
willing associates in spreading his stories about the sinister designs of the Americans.
This feeling of hostility spread from year to year, especially among the Cayuses,
through whose country the immigrants all passed, and who were thus better able than
the other tribes to see what great numbers were coming and what a hearty welcome they
all received from Dr. Whitman and his associates. As far back as 1845, a Delawai-e
Indian, called Tom Hill, had been living w^ith the Nez Perce tribe. He had told them
how American missionaries had visited his people, first to teach religion, and then the
Americans had taken their lands ; and he warned them to drive Mr. Spalding away,
unless they would invite a similar misfortune. This Indian visited AVhitman's mission
and repeated to the Cayuses his story of the ruin to his tribe that had followed the
advent of American missionaries to live among them. In the latter ^^art of 1847, an-
other Indian came among the Cayuses, who had been taken from west of the Cascades
to the States, when a boy, where he grew to manhood among the Americans. His
name was Joe I^ewis, and he bent all the powers of his subtle nature to the task of
creating hatred of the missionaries and Americans among the Indians at Waiilatpu.
He reaffirmed the statements of Dorion and Tom Hill, and said it was the American
plan of operations to first send missionaries, then a few settlers every year until they
had taken all the land and made the Indians slaves. It was then that Tam-su-ky and
his followers were triumphant and could boast of their superior wisdom in opposing
the mission from the first. The tribe was divided into three classes, a few faithful fol-
lowers of the Doctor and his God, a few bitterly opposed to the mission, and the great
majority of the tribe indifferent but gradually acquiring a feeling of hostility. There
were many, also, who desired to exchange to the Catholic religion, of which they heard
favorable reports from other tribes. The long black gowns and imposing ceremonies
had captured them. Whitman perceived the gathering storm but thought it could be
averted. Thomas McKay warned him that it was unsafe to live longer with the Cay-
uses, and the Doctor offered to sell the proj^erty to him, an offer wdiich McKay agreed
to accept if he could dispose of his claim on the Willamette. With this in view
Whitman went to The Dalles in the fall of 1847, and purchased the disused Methodist
mission there, and leaving his nephew, P. B. Whitman, in charge he returned to
Waiilatpu to sijend the winter, preparatory to moving away in the sjjring.

This was the condition of affairs at Waiilatpu when the Catholics decided to take
advantage of the desire of a number of the Cayuses to embrace their faith and estab-
lish a mission among them. On the fifth of September, 1847, Father A. M. A. Blanchet
reached Walla Walla w^ith three associate priests, and the fort became their headquarters
for a. number of weeks while they were seeking a suitable place for a permanent
location. Whitman found them there upon his return from The Dalles, and quite a
stormy interview ensued, though it nuist be confessed that the storming was chiefly

OREGON. 157

iloue by the Doetur; aiul no woiukT. He had just made aiTaiigements to abandon all
he had accomplished by eleven years of self-denial and labor, and here he found those
to whom he attributed his misfortunes ready to take his place even before he had left
it. He did not hesitate to tell them his opinion of their conduct, and the complaisant
manner in which they received his complaint aggravated him the more.

Immigrants from the States in the fall of that year brought with them the dysen-
tery and measles, which soon became epidemic among the Cayuses. Many Indians
died in spite of the remedies administered by the Doctor. Joe Lewis made good use
of his opportunity. He told the Indians that Whitman intended to kill them all; that
for this purpose he had sent home for poison two years before, but they had not for-
warded a good kind ; that this year the immigrants had brought him some good poison
and he was now using it to kill off the Cayuses; that when they were all dead the
Americans w^ould come and take their lands. He even went so far as to declare that he
overheard a conversation between Mr. Spalding and Dr. and Mrs. Whitman, in which the
former complained because the Doctor was not killing them fast enough, and then the
trio began to count up the wealth they would acquire when the Indians were all dis-
posed of. This received much credence among the tribe, especially since they knew of
a somewhat similar case a few years before, when an American purposely spread small-
pox among the Blackfeet and killed hundreds of that tribe. Without knowing the
perfidious conduct of Joe Lewis, who was employed about the mission, Dr. Whitman
perceived the signs of danger, and asked Thomas McKay to spend the winter with
him, as that gentleman's influence with the natives was great; but Mr. McKay was un-
able to comply.

On the twenty-seventh of November, two days before the massacre, the Catholics
established their mission on the Umatilla, forty miles from Waiilatpu and near the
home of Five Crows, the head chief. Joe Lewis had assured the Cayuses that the
priest had told him Dr. Whitman was giving them poison, which does not seem to be
sustained by reason or probability. In 1882 the writer had a long interview with
three of these Indians, ones who were still adherents of the faith taught them by Whit-
man, and since they have suffered much persecution at the hands of the Catholics in
charge of the mission, were not inclined to tell untruths in their belief They unani-
mously agreed that they never heard the priest say anything about Dr. Whitman
giving them poison ; that Joe Lewis told them that, and said he learned it from the
priest ; that it was generally believed the priest had said so, but afterwards in investi-
gating the matter among themselves they could find no one to whom the priest said^
anything of the kind, and that it all came through Joe Lewis. One thing the Roman
missionary did say, and this helped to confirm the Indians in their belief that he had
also said the other, and that was that Dr. Whitman was a bad man, and if they be-
lieved what he told them they would all go to hell, for he was telling them lies. Even
such a statement as that, to unreasoning and passionate savages, was almost enough, in
case they believed it true, to have caused the bloody scene which followed, even had
not the poison theory been so industriously circulated by the scheming Lewis.

The followers of Tam-su-ky determined to prove the poison theory. The wife of
tiiat chief was sick, and they agreed among themselves that they would get some med-

icine from the Doctor aud give it to her ; if she recovered, good, if not, then they
would kill the missionaries. They did so, aud the woman died.

Waiilatpu was centrally located, since the Cayuses occui^ied the country from
Umatilla river to the Tukannon. Every Sunday large numbers gathered at the mission,
some of them to actually 25artici2:)ate in the services, and others because of the crowd
they knew would be assembled. On week days, however, it was seldom that a dozen
could be found there at a time. For this reason Tam-su-ky and his followers chose a
week day for their deed, a time when they thought none of the Whitman Indians
would be present to interfere. They were careful to conceal their design from the
Christian Indians and from the head chief, Five Crows, for fear he would prevent its
execution. About fifty Indians assembled at the mission on the twenty-ninth of Novem-
ber, 1847, being chiefly the relatives and friends of Tam-su-ky. Of these only five
participated in the bloody work, the others simply looking on and preventing the in-
terference of any outsiders and especially of the one or two Whitman Indians who
happened to be present. The horrible details of the massacre it is needless to relate.
Mr. Spalding has given them with a minuteness that is strongly suggestive of an origin
in the imagination, yet his narrative is probably in the main as correct as could possi-
bly be gathered from the incoherent stories of frightened women and children. It is
only when he carries the melodramatic too far, and when he is endeavoring to make it
appear that the massacre was perpetrated at the instigation of Father Brouillet aud
sauctioued by the Hudson's Bay Company, that his statements become unreliable.
His picture is much overdrawn, though Heaven knows that in some particulars, and
especially in the after treatment of the female prisoners, even those of tender age, the
pen utterly fails to depict the horrors of the scene. He uses such exj^ressions as " mul-
titudes of Indians," " cutting down their victims everywhere," " the roar of guns," the
" crash of loar clubs and tomahawks," " shock like terrific peals of thunder," in refer-
ring to the discharge of a few guns, " crash of the clubs and the knives ;" and yet
when the whole is summed up but thirteen were killed in all, nine that day, two the
next and two eight days later. He is equally reckless in his language when making
charges against Father Brouillet, whom he accuses of coming up from the Umatilla
the day after the massacre and " baptizing the murderers." The facts are that he
came upon an invitation given him by the missionary several days before, onh'^ learn-
ing of the horrible tragedy upon his arrival ; and the " murderers " whom he baptized
were three sick children, two of whom died immediately after the ceremony. He also
accuses him of pretending to find the poison and burying it so that it could have no
more influence. The Whitman Indians stated unanimously that Joe Lewis did this
and not the priest. The only interference the priest dared to make at all was when he
successfully interposed to save Spalding's life.

The bloody excesses into which religious zealots were led in times past suggest the
possibility of the truth of these charges, yet they are entirely unsupported by evidence,
and common charity should demand convincing proof to sustain such an accusation.
Though the Catholics are cleared of the charge of directly instigating the massacre by
telling the Indians that Dr. Whitman was poisoning them so that he might secure
their lands for his friends, yet they cannot escape the moral responsibility of the deed .
In the first jilace they went among the Cayuses for the purpose of driving Whitman

OREGON. 15!)

away and olitaining control of the tribe. To aeeonijilish this they told tlie Indians
that Dr. AVhitman was a bad man, was telling them lies, and if they believed him they
would all go to hell. Father Brouillet ought by that time to have become sufficiently
acquainted with the Indian character to know that such assertions, if they were credited,
were calculated to bring on just such a tragedy as was enacted. Whether he knew
this and acted with that end in view, or whether he expected to simply win the relig-
ious trust of the Cayuses away from Whitman, will remain a secret forever. The mas-
sacre was the result of four separate causes — the dislike of Americans, the ravages of
the epidemic, the poison intrigue of Joe Lewis, and the priest's denunciations of Dr.
Whitmau — and Father Brouillet can never shake off the moral responsibility for
one of the most potent of these causes. The victims of this conflict of creeds were: Dr.
Marcus Whitman, Mrs. Narcissa Whitman, John Sager, Francis Sager, Crockett Bewley,
Mr. Rogers, Mr. Kimball, Mr. Sales, Mr. Marsh, Mr. Sanders, James Young, Jr., Mr.
Hoifman, and Isaac Gillen.

Immediately after the massacre Joe Lewis told the Cayuses that now they must
fight, for the Americans would surely come to punish them. He advised them to send
him and two others to Salt Lake with a band of horses, to purchase ammunition from the
Mormons. He started with a select band of animals and two young braves, and a few
days later one of the braves returned with the intelligence that Joe Lewis had killed
the other one and decamped with the horses; and this was the last the Cayuses saw of
that scheming villain.

Intelligence of the massacre reached Fort Vancouver by special messenger from
William McBean, in charge of Fort Walla Walla. The messenger did not Avarn the
people at The Dalles of their danger, but went directly to the fort and delivered his
message to James Douglas, then the chief factor at A^'ancouver. When questioned
about his conduct he said he was obeying instructions received from McBean. This
and the conduct of McBean at Fort Walla Walla in displaying an unwillingness to
receive and 2)rotect fugitives from Waiilatpu, have been cited as conclusive evidence
that the Hudson's Bay Company connived at the massacre; but nothing in the conduct
of other officers of the company sitstains such an opinion, while much is to the contrary,
and it simply shows that McBean was a narrow-minded man who, knowing the general
feeling of the Indians in that region against the Americans, was afraid he would com-
promise the company by defending them. He had not soul enough to rise to the
emergency.

Mr. Douglas sent a message to Governor Abernethy, advising him of what had
taken place; and without waiting to see what steps the Americans would take, Peter
Skeen Ogden, an old and influential factor of the company, departed from Vancouver
with an armed force for the scene of the tragedy, advising the people at The Dalles of
their danger as he passed. He reached Walla Walla on the nineteenth of December.
The next day the Cayuses held a council and decided that if the Americans would call
everything scpiare and would make a treaty of peace, they would deliver u[) the pris-
oners. Three days later the chiefs came to Walla Walla and held a council with ^Iv:
Ogden, who offered to ransom the captives and assured the Indians that they wouhl
regret it if they provoked the Americans to war, and that the company was much dis-
pleased with tlieii- conduct. The conference resulted in the surrender of foi'ty-seven

160 OREGON.

jH-isouers upon thf payment of a small quantity of tobacco, clothing, guns and am-
munition. On the first of January fifty Nez Perces arrived with Mr. Spalding and
ten others from Lapwai, receiving a similar payment from Mr. Ogden, and on the
second the whole party started down the Columbia. Two hours later fifty Caynse
warriors dashed u}) to the fort to demand the surrender of Mr. Spalding, as they had
just learned that a company of Americans had arrived at The Dalles to make war
upon them. On the tenth of January they all reached Oregon City, and great was
the joy of the people. For his humane conduct and prompt action Peter Skeen Ogden
should always occupy a warm j)lace in the hearts of Americans ; yet there are those
who ungratefully accuse him of attempting to arm the Cayuses against the Americans,
simply because a few guns and a little ammunition formed a portion of the ransom
paid to deliver these helpless women from a captivity that was worse than death.

While Mr. Ogden was absent on his errand of mercy, the American settlers were
not idle. On the eighth of December Governor Abernethy informed the legislature of
what had been done at Waiilatpu, and by message called for volunteers. That night
at a public meeting a company was organized to proceed at once to The Dalles, as an
outpost to protect the missionaries there, and to dispute a passage of the Cascade moun-
tains with hostile Indians if any attempted carrying war into the Willamette settle-
ments. The company was commanded by Henry A. G. Lee, captain, and Joseph
Magoue and John E. Ross, lieutenants. The legislature pledged the credit of the
provisional government to pay the expenses of procuring an outfit for this company,
and appointed a committee to visit Vancouver and negotiate for the same from the
Hudson's Bay Company, which they did, but were obliged to become personally respon-
sible for the amount. December 10, the Oregon Rifles reached Vancouver, received
their supplies, and pushed on for The Dalles, where they arrived on the twenty-first of
the month. In the meantime the legislature entered with energy upon a series of
resolutions and enactments with a view to military organization of magnitude sufficient
to chastise the Indians, and the citizens by subscriptions and enlistments seconded
cordially the efforts of their provisional government. Many were for pushing forward
into the enemy's country at once with a formidable force, but wiser counsels prevailed,
and nothing was done likely to prevent the Indians from surrendering their white
captives to Mr. Ogden.

On the ninth of December the legislature autliorized the equipping of a regiment
of 500 men, and in accordance with the act sixteen companies were raised. Cornelius
Gilliam was chosen colonel, James Waters, lieutenant-colonel, and H. A. G. Lee, major.

February 23, 1848, Colonel Gilliam reached The Dalles with fifty men. The
main body of his regiment arriving at that place, he moved to the Des Chutes river
on the twenty-seventh with 130 men, crossed to the east bank, and sent Major Lee up
the stream about twenty miles on a recounoisance, where he found the enemy, engaged
them, killed one, lost some of his horses and returned to report progress. On the
twenty-ninth Colonel Gilliam moved up the Des Chutes to Meek's crossing at the
mouth of the caflon in which Major Lee had met the Indians. The next morning on
entering the canon a skirmish followed, in which were captured from the hostiles, 40
horses, 4 head of cattle and |300 worth of personal property, all of which was sold by
the quartermaster fi)r |1,400. The loss of the Indians in killed and wounded was not

OREGON. 1(U

known. There was one white man wounded. The result was a treaty of peace with
the Des Chutes Indians. The commaud pushed immediately forward to the Walla
Walla country and reached the mission prior to March 4. On the way to that place
a battle occurred at Sand Hollows, on the emigrant road eight miles east of the Well
Springs. It commenced on the plain where washes in the sand make natural hiding
places for a foe, and lasted until towards night. The volunteer force was arranged
with the train in the road protected by Captain Hall's com^sany. The companies of
Captains Thompson and Maxon, forming the left flank, were on the north side of the
road, and those of Captains English and McKay, as the right flank, were on the south
or right of the commaud. Upon McKay's company at the extreme right the first
demonstration was made. Five Crows, the head chief of the Cayuses, made some pre-
tensions to the possession of wizard powers, and declared to his people that no ball from
a white man's gun could kill him. Another chief of that tribe named War Eagle or
Swallow Ball, made similar professions and stated that he could swallow all the bullets
from the guns of the invading army if they were fired at him. The two chiefs prom-
ised their people that Gilliam's command should never reach the Umatilla river, and
to demonstrate their invulnerability and jjower as medicine chiefs, they dashed out
from concealment, rode down close to the volunteers and shot a little dog that came out
to bark at them. Captain McKay, although the order was not to fire, could hold back
no longer, and bringing his rifle to bear took deliberate aim and shot War Eagle
through the head, killing him instantly. Lieutenant Charles McKay brought his shot
gun down to the hollow of his arm, and firing without sighting it, so severely wounded
Five Crows that he gave up the command of his warriors. This was a serious, chilling
opening for the Indians, two chiefs gone at the first onset and their medicine proved
worthless ; but they continued the battle in a skirmishing way, making dashing attacks
and masterly retreats until late in the afternoon. At one time during the engagement.
Captain Maxon's company followed the enemy so far that it was surrounded, and a
sharp encounter followed, in which a number of volunteers were disabled. In fact,
eight of the eleven soldiers wounded that day were of Maxon's company. Two Indians
were known to have been killed, but the enemy's loss could not be known as tliey re-
moved all of their wounded and dead, except two.

That night the regiment camped on the battlefield without water, and the Indians
built large and numerous fires along the bluffs or high lands some two miles in advance.
The next day Colonel Gilliam moved on, and without incident worthy of note, reached
Whitman's mission, the third day after the battle. The main body of Indians fell
l)ack towards Snake river, and a fruitless attempt followed to induce them to give up
the parties who had committed the murders at Waiilatpu. Colonel Gilliam at last de-
termined upon making a raid into the Snake river country, and in carrying out this
programme, surprised a camp of Cayuses near that stream, among whom were some
of the murderers. The captured camp professed friendsliip, however, and pointed out
the horses of Indians on the hills, which tliey, said belonged to the parties whom the
Colonel was anxious to kill or capture, stating that their owners were on the north side
of Snake river and beyond reach. So well was their part acted that the officers be-
lieved their statements, proceeded to drive off" the stock indicated, and started on their
return. Tlioy soon found that a 2;rievons crroi- liad l>cen committed in releasing the

village, whose male population were soon mounted upon war horses, and assailed the
volunteers on all sides, forcing them to fight their way as they fell back to the Touchet
river. Through the whole day and until evening, yes, into the night after their arri-
val at the latter stream, the contest was maintained,, a constant, harassing skirmish.
The soldiers would drive the Indians back again and again, but as soon as the retreat
•was resumed, ilie red skins were upon them once more. Finally, after going into camp
on the Touchet, Colonel Gilliam ordered the captured stock turned loose, and when
the Indians got possession of it, they returned to Snake river without molesting the
command any further. In the struggle on the Touchet, when the retreating soldiers
first reached that stream, William Taylor was mortally wounded by an Indian who
sprang up in the bushes by the stream and fired with but a few yards between them-
Nathan Olney, afterwards Indian agent, seeing the act, rushed upon the savage, snatched
from his hand a war club in which was fastened a piece of iron, and dealt him a blow
on the head with it with such force as to cause the iron to split the club, and yet failed
to kill him. He then closed with his antagonist in a hand to hand struggle, and soon
ended the contest with a knife. The writer has not been able to learn of any other
known casualties in that affair, which ended without having accomplished anything to
further the purposes of the campaign.

Colonel Gilliam started from the mission on the twentieth of March, with a small
force destined to return from the Dalles with supplies, while he was to continue to the
Willamette and report to the governor. While camped at Well Springs he was killed
by an accidental discharge of a gun, and his remains were taken to his friends west of
the Cascades by Major Lee. This officer soon returned to his regiment with a com-
mission as colonel, but finding Lt. Col. Waters had been elected by the regiment to
that position in his absence, he resigned and filled a subordinate oflSce for the remainder
of his term of enlistment. The attempt by commissioners, who had been sent with the
volunteers, as requested by the Indians in their memorial to the Americans, to nego-
tiate a peaceful solution of the difficult problem, failed. They wanted the Indians to
deliver up for execution all those who had imbued their hands in the blood of our
countrymen at Waiilatpu, and it included several chiefs ; they wished the Cayuses to
pay all damages to emigrants caused by their being robbed or attacked while passing
through the Cayuse country. The Indians wished nothing of the kind. They wanted
peace, and to be let alone ; for the Americans to call the account balanced and droj)
the matter. The failure to agree had resulted in two or three skirmishes, one of them
at least a severe test of strength, in which the Indians had received the worst of it, and
in the other the volunteers had accomj^lished nothing that could be counted a success.
The Cayuses finding that no compromise could be effected, abandoned their country,
and most of them passed east of the mountains. Nothing was left for the volunteers
but to leave the country also, which they did, and the Cayuse war had practically
ended. Finally, they were given to understand that peace could never exist between
them and the Americans until the murderers were delivered up for punishment.

At that time, early in 1850, Tam-su-ky and his supporters, including many
relatives who had not in any manner participated in the massacre, were hiding in the
mountains at the head of John Day river. The Indians who desired peace went after
them, and a fight ensued, ending in the capture of nearly all of the turbulent band.

Only one, however, of the five who were actually engaged in the Ijloody work at
AVaiilatiHX (so the Whitman Indians assert) was captured, and he was Ta-nia-has, a
bloody-minded villain whom his countrymen called The "Murderer." It was he who
commenced the work of death by braining Dr. Whitman with a hatchet. Taking him
and four others, several of the older men and chiefs went to Oregon City to deliver
them up as hostages. They were at once thrown into prison, condemned, and hung at
Oregon City on the third of June, 1850 ; and even the ones who brought them, in
view of this summary proceeding, congratulated themselves upon their safe return.
They believed that Ta-ma-has should have been hung, but not the other four, not
understanduig the theory of accomplices, and so the few survivors of the tribe assert to
the iiresent dav.

CHAPTER XIX.

TERRITORIAL GOVERNMENT OF OREGON.

Discourag;ing; News Brouefht by Immigrants in 1847 -Letters from President Polk and Senator Benton -J.
Quinn Thornton's Mission to Washington Senatorial Struggle over the Oregon Bill— Joe Meeks' Trip
Across the Continent— Arrival of Governor Lane -Discovery of Gold— Effect upon Oregon -Beaver Money-
Steps Leading to Creation of Washington Territory -Division of Oregon -First Government of Washing-
ton Territory— Indian War of 1855-6.

With the immigration of 1S47, so large and so encouraging to the struggling set-
tlers of Oregon, came the disheartening intelligence that congress had failed utterly to
l)rovide for a territorial government for this neglected region, or to extend to it in any
way the benefit of the national laws. Four years had the people of Oregon governed
themselves, loyal in heait and deed to their native land, and for a year had England
by solemn treaty relinquished all her asserted rights, and yet the national legislature
denied it the aid and protection of the law. Congress had, during the session of 1840-7,
iiKide an appropriation for a mail service ria Panama to Oregon, and two post masters
were appointed, one for Astoria and one for Oregon City, also an Indian agent. By
one of the new officials, Mr. Shively, James Buchanan, secretary of state, transmitted a
letter to the people, expressing the deep regret of President Polk that congress had
been so unmindful of their needs and rights. The communication also contained the
assurance that the executive would extend to this far off region all the protection with-
in his power, including occasional visits of vessels of war and the presence of a regi-
ment of dragoons to guard the immigration. Mr, Shively also bore a letter from
Thomas H. Benton, that sturdy senator from Missouri, whose voice and pen had un-
swervingly championed the cause of Oregon for thirty years. In tliis letter, dated at
Wiishino-ton Citv. March, 1S47. Mr. Benton savs :

164 OREGON.

" The house of representatives, as early as the middle of January, had passed the
bill to give you a territorial government, and in that bill had sanctioned and legalized
your provisional organic act, one of the clauses of which forever prohibited the
existence of slavery in Oregon. An amendment from the senate's committee to whieli
this bill was referred, proposed to abrogate that prohibition, and in the delays and vex-
ations to which that amendment gave rise, the whole bill was laid upon the table, and
lost for the session. * * * But do not be alarmed or desperate. You will not l)e
outlawed for not admitting slavery. * * * A home agitation, for election and dis-
union purposes, is all that is intended by thrusting this fire brand question into your
bill ; and, at the next session, when it is thrust in again, we will scourge it out ! and pass
your bill as it ought to be. '''' * '"'' 'In conclusion, I have to assure you that the
same spirit which has made me the friend of Oregon for thirty years — which led me
to denounce the joint occupation treaty the day it was made, and to oppose its revival
in 1828, and to labor for its abrogation until it was terminated ; the same spirit which
led me to reveal the grand destiny of Oregon in articles written in 1818, and to sup-
port every measure for her benefit since — this spirit still animates me, and will continue
to do so while I live — which, I hope, will be long enough to see an emporium of
Asiatic commerce at the mouth of your river, and a stream of Asiatic trade pouring
into the valley of the Mississippi through the channel of Oregon." Would that the
grand old statesman could have lived to see his prophecy fulfilled in the new era upon
which far off Oregon — now far oflP no longer — has so propitiously entered.

These letters were both disheartening and cheering. The people felt despondent
at being so neglected by the authorities of their loved country, but were cheered by
the thought that warm friends were laboring for their welfare far beyond the reach
of their grateful voices. Hon. J. Quinu Thornton, supreme judge of the provisional
government, had been, during the past year, frequently urged by influential men, to
proceed to Washington and labor with congress in behalf of Oregon. In particular
had the lamented Dr. Whitman requested him so to do, asserting that only the estab-
lishment of a strong territorial government, one that the Indians would recognize as
powerful, would " save him and his mission from falling under the murderous hands of
savages." Mr. Thornton recognized the importance of such a delegate, and solicited
Hon. Peter H. Burnett, subsequently the first governor of California, to undertake the
mission, but without success. The news of the state of affairs at Washington brought
by Mr. Shiveiy, decided Mr. Thornton, and on the eighteenth of October, 1847, having
resigned his judicial office, he departed on his arduous mission, armed with a letter
from Governor Abernethy to President Polk. Mr. Thornton was by no means a reg-
ularly constituted delegate, since Oregon was not authorized to accredit such an official
to congress, but simply went as a private individual, re^n-esenting in an unoflBcial man-
ner the governor and many of the prominent citizens of Oregon. In fact the legis-
lature, deeming its functions infringed upon by this action of the governor, passed
resolutions embodying their idea of the harm done the colony by the ofiiciousness of
" secret factions."

There was not ready money enough in the treasury to have paid the passage of
Mr. Thornton, even had it been at his disposal. A collection was taken up, contri-
butions being made partly in coin but chiefly in flour, clothing, and anything that

^^yfe-1
^^^^^a. ^

i

I^S&

Mill Property of Gurney Bros.
Ten Mile, Douglas Co,

OREGON ]65

could be of service or was convertible into money. A contract was made with Captain
Roland Gelston, of the bark Whit/on, to convey Mr. Thornton to Panama, and the
vessel sailed at once for San Francisco, and thence to San Juan, on the coast of Lower
California. Here the Captain informed his passenger that he must decline to fultill
his contract^ as he desired to engage in the coasting trade. From the perplexing
dilemma he was extricated by Captain Montgomery, commanding the United States
sloop of war, Portsmouth, then lying at anchor in the harbor. This gentleman deemed
the mission of Mr. Thornton of sufficient importance to the government to justify
him in leaving his station and returning with his vessel to the Atlantic coast. He
accordingly tendered the delegate the hospitalities of his cabin, and set sail as soon as
preparations could be made for the voyage. The Portsmouth arrived in Boston harbor
on the second of May, 1848, and Mr. Thornton at once hastened to Washington to
consult with President Polk and Senators Benton and Douglas, those warm champions
of Oregon, as to the proper course to pursue. By them he was advised to prepare a
memorial to be presented to congress, setting forth the condition and needs of the peo-
ple whom he represented. This he did, and the document w-as j^i'esented to the senate
by Mr. Benton, and was printed for the use of both branches of congress. Mr. Thorn-
ton also drafted a bill for organizing a territorial government, which was introduced
and placed upon its passage. This bill contained a clause prohibiting human slaveiy,
and for this reason was as objectionable to the slaveholding force in congress as had
been the previous one. Under the lead of Senators Jefferson Davis and John C. Cal-
houn, this wing of the national legislature made a vigorous onslaught upon the bill,
and fought its progress step by step with unabated determination, resorting to all the
legislative tactics known, to so delay its consideration that it could not be finally passed
by the hour of noon on the fourteenth of August, the time fixed by joint resolution for
the close- of that session of congress.

The contest during the last two days of the session was exciting in the extreme,
and the feeling intense throughout the Union. The friends of the bill had decided
upon a policy of " masterly inactivity," refraining entirely from debate and yielding
the floor absolutely to the " filibusters," who were therefore much distressed for means
to consume the slowly passing hours. Though silent in speech they were constantly
present in force to prevent the opposition from gaining time by an adjournment. The
bill was then on its second passage in the senate, for the purpose of concurrence Avith
amendments which had been added by the house. On Saturday morning, August 12,
the managers of the bill decided to prevent an adjournment until it had been disposed
of, having a sufficient majority to pass it. The story of that memorable contest is thus
told by Mr. Thornton, who sat throughout the scene an earnest spectator :

" I re-entered the senate chamber with the deepest feelings of solicitude, and yet
hopeful because of the assurances which had been given to me by the gentlemen I have
named. [Douglas, Benton and Hale.] I soon saw, however, that Calhoun and But-
ler, of South Carolina; Davis and Foote, of Mississippi; and Hunter and Mason of
Virginia, as leaders of the opposition, had girded up their loins and had buckled on
their armor for the battle. The friends of the bill, led by Mr. Benton, having taken
their position, waited calmly for the onset of their adversaries, who spent Saturday
until the usual lionr of adjournnient in skirmishing in force, as if feeling the strength

1G6 OEEGON.

of their opponents. When the motion was made at the usual time in the afternoon for
adjournmeut, the friends of the bill came pouring out of the retiring rooms, and on
coming inside the bar they voted 'No' with very marked emphasis. '^ * * This
state of affiiirs continued until after night. [Here ensued a series of filibustering tactics,
(hiring which a personal altercation between Judge Butler and Senator Benton came
near resulting in blows.] General Foote, the collegue of Jeflf. Davis, then rose, and in
a drawling tone assumed for the occasion, said his powers of endurance, he believed,
would enable him to continue his address to the senate until Monday, 12 o'clock M.,
and although he could not promise to say much on the subject of the Oregon bill, he
could not doubt that he would be able to interest and greatly edify distinguished sena-
tors. The friends of the bill, seeing what was before them, posted a page in the door-
way opening into one of the retii-ing rooms, and then, after detailing a few of their
number to keep watch and 'ward on the floor of the senate, withdrew into the room of
which I have spoken, to chat and tell anecdotes and to drink wine, or perhaps some-
thing even much stronger, and thus to wear away the slowly and heavily passing hours
of that memorable Saturday night. Soon great clouds of smoke filled the room, and
from it issued th'e sound of the chink of glasses, and of loud conversation, almost drown-
ing the eloquence of the Mississippi senator, as he repeated the bible story of the
cosmogany of the world, the creation of man, the taking from his side of the rib from
which Eve was made, her talking with the 'snake,' as he called the evil one, the fall of
man, etc. etc. The galleries were soon deserted. Many of the aged senators prostrated
themselves upon the sofas in one of the retiring rooms, and slumbered soundly, while
'thoughts that breathed and words that burned' fell in glowing eloquence from the lips
of the Mississippi senator, as he continued thus to instruct and edify the few watching
friends of the bill, who, notwithstanding the weight of seventy years pressed heavily
upon some of them, were as wide awake as the youngest ; and they sat firm and erect
in their seats, watching with lynx eyes every movement of the adversaries of the bill.

"At intervals of about an hour, the sj^eaker would yield the floor to a motion for
adjournment, coming from the opposition. Then the sentinel page at the door would
give notice to the waking senators in the retiring room, and these would immediately
arouse the slumbering senators, and all would then rush pell mell through the doorway,
and when the inside of the bar -was reached, would vote 'No' with a thundering emphasis.
Occasionally southern senators, toward Sunday morning, relieved Gen. Foote by short,
dull sjieeches, to which the friends of the bill vouchsafed no answers ; so that Mr. Cal-
houn and his pro-slavery subordinates had things for the most part all their own way
until Sabbath morning, August 13, 1848, at about eight o'clock, when the leading
opponents of the bill collected together in a knot, and after conversing together a short
time in an undertone, the Mississippi senator who had been so very edifying and enter-
taining during the night, said that no further opposition would be made to taking a
vote on the bill. The ayes and nayes were then called and the bill passed."

Not alone to Mr. Thornton is due the honor of representing Oregon at Washington
dui-ing that long struggle for justice. Another delegate, one with even better creden-
tials than the first, was there to aid in the work. This was Joseph L. Meek, the moun-
taineer and trajjper whose name is indelibly inscribed upon the early annals of the Pacific
coast. When the massacre of the martyred Whitman and his associates at Waiihitpu

OREGON. 167

|iliinL;cJ tlie settlers into a state of niingled grief and alarm, it was thought
to di.spatch a messenger at once to Washington to impart the intelligence, impress the
authorities with the precarious situation of the colony, and appeal for protection.
Winter had set in with all its vigors in the mountains. The terrible journey made at
that season six years before by Dr. Whitman, on his patriotic mission, the same person
wliose martyrdom now rendered a second journey necessary, was fresh in the minds of
all, and appalled the stoutest heart. Mr. Thornton had taken the longer but safer
route by sea, but time was too precious, too much was at stake, to admit of the delay
such a journey would impose, even if the vessel were at hand to aiford the means.
Nothing but a trip across the thousands of miles of snow-bound mountains, plains and
deserts, would be of any avail. In the emei-gency all turned to Joseph L. Meek as the
one man in their midst whose intrepid courage, great pow'ers of physical endurance,
long exi^erience in mountain life and familiarity with the routes of travel and Indian
tribes to be encountered, rendered him capable of undertaking the task with a good
prospect of success. Unhesitatingly he accepted the mission, resigned his seat in the
legislature, received his credentials as a delegate from that body, and set out on the
fourth of January for Washington, accompanied by John Owens and George Ebberts,
who decided to go with him and avail themselves of his services as guide and director.
At The Dalles they w^ere forced to delay several weeks until the arrival of the Oregon
volunteers rendered it safe for them to proceed, since the whole upper countrv was
overrun by hostile Indians.

They accompanied the troops to Waiilatpu, where Meek had the mournful satis-
faction of assisting in the burial of the victims of Cayuse treachery, among whom was
iiis own daughter, and then were escorted by a company of troops to the base of the
Ijlue mountains, where they finally entered upon their long and solitary journey. By
avoiding the Indians as much as possible, and whenever encountered by them repre-
senting themselves as Hudson's Bay Company men, they reached Fort Boise in safetv-
Here two of four new volunteers for the journey became discouraged and decided to
lemain. The other five travelers pushed on to Fort Hall, saving themselves from the
clutch of the Bannacks only by Meek's experience in dealing with the savages. It is
needless to recount the many hardships they endured, the sleepless nights and dinner-
less days, the accidents, dangers, fatigues, narrow esca|:)es from hostile Indians and the
thousand discomforts and misadventures to which they were subjected. It is sufficient
to say that through all these they passed in safety, never forgetting for an instant the
imperative necessity for haste, and never flinching from the trials that lay in their
pathway. The hearty invitation to spend a few weeks here or there in the few jj'aces
where they encountered friends and comfortable quarters, was resolutely declined, and
with only such delay as was absolutely rec|uired, they plunged again into the snowy
mountain passes with their faces resolutely .set towards the rising sun. They reached
!St. Joseph in but little more than two mouths after leaving the Willamette valley,
having made the ijuickest trip across the continent that had been accomplished at aiiv
season of the year.

Meek was now reduced to most embarrassing straits. Dressed in buckskin and
lilanket clothes and wolf skin cap, ragged and dirty in the extreme, beard and hair
long and unkempt, without monev or friends, how to get to Washington or how

to conduct himself when there, were jjerplexing questions. His solution of the diffi-
culty was a characteristic one. By making a clown of himself at one place, by assum-
ing an air of imijortance and dignity at another, he succeeded in reaching the city of
his destination only a week or two later than Mr. Thornton, though his news from
Oregon was four months fresher than that brought by his predecessor. The united
labors of these two men brought about the result which has been detailed, the passage
of the act of August 14, 1848, creating the territory of Oregon.

President Polk, the staunch friend of Oregon, the man who had been elevated to
the chief office in the nation amid the universal shout of " Fifty-four-forty-or-fight ! "
was eager to have the work consummated before the expiration of his term on the fourth
of the ensuing March. To this end he appointed Meek marshal of the new territory,
and delegated him to convey a governor's commission to General Joseph Lane, then
]-esiding in Indiana and unaware of the honor to be conferred, or the sacrifice to be re-
quired, in which ever light it may be viewed. With that promjjtness of decision and
action which was General Lane's distinguishing characteristic, he accepted the com-
mission on the spot, and in three days had disposed of his property, wound up his bus-
iness affairs and begun his journey to the far off" wilds of Oregon. They were escorted
by a detachment of troops, and after a journey of six months, by the way of New
Mexico and Arizona, seven only of the party reached San Francisco, two having died
on the route and the others having deserted to try their fortunes in the new gold fields
of the Sierra. These seven were General Lane, Marshal Meek, Lieutenant Hawkins,
Surgeon Hayden and three enlisted men. Taking passage in the schooner Jeannette,
they reached the Columbia river after a tedious voyage of eighteen days, ascended that
stream to Oregon City, a distance of 120 miles, in small boats, reaching that jjlace,
then the seat of government, on the second of March, 1849. The following day Gov-
ernor Lane issued his proclamation and assumed the duties of his office, being but one
day before the expiration of President Polk's official term.

The first territorial officers of Oregon were : governor, Joseph Lane ; secretary,
Kintzing Pritchett ; treasurer, James Taylor ; auditor, B. Gervais ; chief justice, Wil-
liam P. Bryant ; associate justices, O. C. Pratt and P. A. Burnett ; United States
marshal, Joseph L. Meek ; superintendent of common schools, James McBride ; libra-
rian, W. T. Matlock ; territorial printer, Wilson Blain ; commissioner of Cayuse war
claims, A. A. Skinner. All of these officials, save the governor, secretary, marshal and
judges, were appointed by the legislature when it convened in the fall.

General Lane appointed census marshals as provided for in the organic act, who
reported the population of the territory as shown in the following table:

Census of 1840,

if

1*

k

=3

a

Fc

reignei

s.

o

u

H

a S

COUNTIES.

=5 -r^

|1

Ml

3
^

Clackamas

Tualatin

Champoeg

401
346
465

49
394
387

39

295

271

4

390
293

458
100
402
327

33
269
229

22

585

s?

75
557
509

37
359
370

20

4
5

3

1

12

23
94
3

8

1

31

39

5
13
4
4

12

1376

1107

1570

224

1353

1173

109

923

870

80

17

35

"1

15
1

36

79

1393
1142

1682
227
1368
1174
145
923
870
150

Yamhill

Polk

Lewis

Liim ■

Bentou

Vancouver

Total

2601

2523

3627

15

211

46

8795

298

9083

Subsequent to the departure of Thornton and Meek upon their mission to Wash-
ington, but prior to the return of the latter with Governor Lane, a new era set in on
tlie Pacific coast. On the nineteenth of January, 1848, James W. Marshall discovered
gold on the south fork of the American river, in California. Marshall had come to
Oregon in the immigration of 1844, and had the next year passed south into Cali-
fornia, where he entered the employment of Captain John A. Sutter, who had crossed
the plains to Oregon in 1838 and to California by way of the Sandwich islands in 1839.
In the fall of 1847, Marshall went up into the Sierras east of Sutter's settlement of
New Helvetia (Sacramento), and began building a saw mill for his employer, which
was nearly completed at the time he accidentally discovered gold in the tail race. All
California was excited by the discovery, and nearly every able-bodied man abandoned
everything and hastened to the mines. The intelligence did not reach Oregon until
the following August, and the effect upon such a class of adventurous spirits as com-
posed the pioneers can w'ell be imagined. There was at once a gi-eat rush for Cali-
fornia, and it looked as though Oregon would be deserted and relegated back to the
dominion of the Hudson's Bay Company and Indians. This, however, was but tem-
porary. Family and business ties held many back and hastened the return of others,
many bringing with them heavy sacks of the yellow treasure. What had at first
2"»romised to be an overwhelming calamity soon proved a bountiful blessing. Thous-
ands of men poured into California from every quarter of the world, and a brisk
demand at once sprung up for the grain, flour, vegetables and food products of all
kinds which Oregon could produce in abundance, but for which no market had pre-
viously existed. California gold began to pour into Oregon in a steady stream, com-
merce began to assume large proportions, a custom house was established at Astoria,
and this region made great strides on the road to wealth and prosperity. This sudden
increase in business gave rise to a direct infringement of the constitutional prohibition
of the coinage of money by state governments or individuals, and this forms one of
the most interesting (>pisodcs of Oregon history.

170 OREGON.

Duriug the winter of 1848-9 people began straggling back from the -California
mines, bringing with them sacks of gold dust. As a circulating medium gold in such
a shape was inconvenient and certain to decrease in quantity as it passed from hand to
liand, and an ounce was only called the equivalent of eleven dollars in trade, though
intrinsically worth at least sixteen. Commerce and business generall)^ suffered much
inconvenience from the lack of coin, and to remedy the evil the legislature passed an
act providing for the " assaying, melting, and coining of gold." The advent of Gov-
ernor Lane and the decease of the provisional government, operated to render the act
void before it could be carried into effect. Still the necessity for money increased, and
the want was sup)plied by private enterprise. A company was organized by responsible
and wealthy men, which issued five and ten dollar " Beaver " coins, bearing on one
side the figure of a beaver, over which appeared the initial letters of the names of the
members of the company — Kilbouru, Magruder, Taylor, Abernethy, Wilson, Rector,
Campbell, Smith — and underneath " O. T. 1849." On the reverse side was : " Oregon
Exchange Comj^any, 130 Grains Native Gold, 5 D.," or " 10 pwts, 20 grains, 10 D."
The dies by which the coins were stamped were made by Hamilton Campbell, and the
press and rolling machinery by William Eector. The workmanship was quite credit-
able. The intrinsic worth of these coins being greater than their representative value,
they quickly passed from circulation wdien the government coins appeared in quantity,
and are now only to be found in the keeping of pioneers, in the cabinets of curiosity
preservers or the collections of numismatologists.

During the next four years the progress of the territory was marked. In 1851
gold was found to exist in great quantities in Southern Oregon, and that region soon
teemed with a restless jiopulation of miners. Towns and cities sprung np, and the fer-
tile valley lands were located on by settlers and brought under the dominion of the
plow. These changes were accompanied by the inevitable trouble with the native
owners of the soil, and the scenes of horror whi(;h marked them are recounted in other
chapters.

By the act of March 3, 1853, congress set off the territory of AVashington from
that of Oregon, and gave to it a separate political existence. Oregon at that time con-
tained 341,000 square miles, equal in area to the six great states of Indiana, Illinois,
Missouri, Iowa, Minnesota and Wisconsin, by far too large for admission into the Union
as a single state. Through it ran the great Columbia river, dividing it into nearly
equal parts from the ocean to Fort Walla Walla, where it made a long sweep to the
north and east. That portion of the territory lying north and west of this great stream
was called Northern Oregon, and within it were a number of small settlements, which
included a population, " Quite as great," declared Joseph Lane in congress, " as the
whole of Oregon at the period of its organization into a territory." In 1833 the fort
at Nisqually, near the head of Puget sound, was located by the Hudson's Bay Cora-
i)any, and soon after the Puget Sound Agricultural Company began to graze cattle
and sheep in the vicinity, and to cultivate the lands. These were guarded by the
stockade and buildings afterwards occupied by U. S. troojis, and known as Fort Steila-
coora. In 1838 the Rev. F. N. Blanchet and Rev. M. Demers, of the Society of Jesus
of the Roman Catholic fiiith, established a mission at Fort Vancouver, and soon after
one was located on Cowlitz prairie near a post that had been established by the Hud-

OREGON. 171

son's; Bay CoiupaDv. In ISo'.' the Methodists hy Kevs. David Leslie and W. H.
Wilson, and the Catholics by Father Demers, each established missions at Nisqually.
It was the desire of Great Britain, during the decade previous to the treaty of
1846, to have the Columbia river declared the boundary line between its possessions
and those of the United States. To this end efforts of the Hudson's Bay Company
were directed, and they looked with disfavor upon the making of any settlements north
of that stream by Americans. Nevertheless, in 1844, Col. M. T. Simmons made an
unsuccessful attempt to reach Puget sound, having crossed the j^lains the year before.
In 1845, with a few companions, he renewed his efforts and located at the head of the
sound, where the Des Chutes river empties into Budd's inlet. Their little settlement
was called New Market, now the town of Tumwater, but a mile from Olympia. To
this, no active opposition was made by the company ; and in the few following years
many other Americans located along the Cowlitz and other streams, and about the
head of the sound. The immigrants brought out by the company from the Ked river
settlements in 1841, whose arrival created so much anxiety in the minds of the Amer-
icans, located chiefly on the Cowlitz, in accordance with the )>lan of making the
Columbia the dividing line.

June 27, 1844, the Oregon Pi'ovisional Government designated all tlie territory
north and west of the Columbia, ^''ancouver county ; but owing to the settlements
alluded to, that portion lying west of the Cowlitz was made Lewis county ; and the
name of Clarke was given to Vancouver county in 1849.

Captain Lafayette Beach founded Steilacoom in January, 1851. In February of
the same year Pacific county was created, because of the thriving settlements of Pacific
City and Chinook that had sprung up on the north bank of the Columbia, near its
mouth. In April, 1851, Port Towusend was located. Congress ertablished the Puget
Sound Collection District February 14, 1851, and a custom house was located during
the year at, Olympia, then the only town on the sound. On the third of November,
1851, the sloop Georgiana, Captain Rowland, sailed with twenty-two passengers for
Queen Charlotte's island, where gold had been discovered. On the nineteenth the
vessel was cast ashore on the east side of the island, was plundered by the Indians, and
the crew and passengers were held in captivity. Upon receipt of the news, the col-
lector of customs at Olympia dispatched the Damariscore, Captain Balch, with a force
of volunteers and U. S. troops from Fort Steilacoom, which had been garrisoned after
the treaty of 1840. The schooner sailed on the eighteenth of December, and returned
to Olympia with the rescued men the last day of January, 1852.

In 1852 a superior article of coal was found, something much needed on the coast,
and capital was at once invested in developing the mines. Three saw mills were built
on the sound ; and during the year (|uite extensive shipments of coal, lumber and fish
were made. Many claims were taken up on the fine agricultural lands, and all the ele-
ments for a vigorous growth were collected there. The chief settlements then in North-
ern Oregon were : Pacific City ; Vancouver, the Hudson's Bay Company headquarters,
consisting of 100 houses occupied by its employees, chiefly Kanakas, enclosed by
l)icket fences, and defended by armed bastions and a blockhouse ; Forts Walla Walla,
Okinagan and Colville, further up the Columbia; Olympia, a new town on the sound;
Fort Nis(jual]y on tlie soun.l, oei-upied by the Puget Sound Agricultural Company, wlio

172 OREGON.

owned extensive farms and su2:)plied provisions to the Hudson's Bay Company, besides
shi23ping products to the Sandwich islands and the Russian post at Sitka. These with
many settlements along the sound and between it and the Columbia, formed a section
distinct from Oregon proper, with which they had no community of interest, and from
whom, being in the minorit}' in the legislature, they were unable to obtain many of
the rights they deemed themselves entitled to. Many of them were 500 miles from
the seat of the territorial government.

In September, 1852, the Columbian began publication in Olympia, and advocated
the formation of a new territory, expressing the wish of a majority of the people in the
Sound country. As to those east of the Cascades, they were so few in number, most of
them belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company, that they cared little about the matter.
A convention of delegates from counties north of the river met at a little settlement on
the Cowlitz called Monticello, to consider the question, November 25, 1852, A mem-
orial to congress was prepared, stating the condition of this region and asking that body
to create the territory of Columbia, out of that j^ortion of Oregon lying north and west
of the Columbia river. There was no conflict in this matter, the peoj^le of Oregon
south of the river raising no objection to the proposed change. In fact, delegate Joseph
Lane, living in Southern Oregon and elected by the votes of that section, procured the
passage of the bill in congress. He first introduced the subject on the sixth of Decem-
ber, 1852, by procuring the passage of a resolution instructing the committee on ter-
ritories to consider the question and report a bill. The committee reported House Bill
No. 8, to organize the territory of Columbia, which came upon the eighth of February,
1853. Mr. Lane made a short speech and introduced the citizens' memorial signed by
G. N. McCanahei', president of the convention, R. J. White, its secretary, and Quincy
A. Brooks, Charles S. Hathaway, C. H. Wiuslow, John R. Jackson. D. S. Maynard,
F. A. Clarke, and others. Richard H. Stanton, of Kentucky, moved to substitute the
name of " Washington " for " Columbia," saying that we already had a District of
Columbia while the name of the father of our country had been given to no territory
in it. With this amendment the bill was passed through the house on the tenth with
128 votes for and 29 against it. On the second of March, it was adopted by -the
senate and received the President's signature the following day.

The act created a territory more than twice the size asked for in the memorial^
being "All that portion of Oregon Territory lying and being south of the forty-ninth
degree of north latitude, and north of the middle main channel of the Columbia river,
from its mouth to where the forty-sixth degree of north latitude crosses said river near
Fort Walla Walla, thence with said forty -sixth degree of latitude to the summit of the Rocky
mountains." This included all of Washington Territory as it now stands, and a portion
of Idaho and Montana. The act was in the usual form creating territories, and pro-
vided for a governor, to be fti-q^Vio commander-in-chief of militia and supei'inten-
dent of Indian affairs, a secretary, a supreme court of three judges, an attorney, and
a marshal, all to be appointed by the President for a term of four years. It also
called for a delegate to congress, whose first term was to last only during the congress
to which he was elected. A territorial legislature was created, with two branches — a
council with nine members and a term of three years, the first ones to serve one, two
and three years as decided by lot among them ; and a house of eighteen members, with

OREGON. 17:3

a term ot'une year, to be iiicreasetl t'roin time to time to not more than tliirty. Twenty
thoiLsand dollars were appropriated to defray the- expenses of a census, after the taking
of which the Governor was to apportion the members of the legislature and call an
I'lectiou to choose them and the delegate to congress. The first legislature was to
meet at any place the Governor might select, and was then to fix the seat of govern-
ment itself; |5,000 were apportioned for public buildings, and the same amount for a
library. County and local officers then serving were to hold their positions until suc-
cessors were chosen tinder acts to be passed by the legislature of the new territory.
Causes were to be transferred from the Oregon courts, and the territory was to be
divided into three districts, in each of which one of the supreme judges was to hold a
district court. Sections 16 and 36 of the 2)ublic lands, or their equivalent, were given
the territory for the benefit of public schools.

Soon after his inauguration President Pierce appointed Major Isaac I. Stevens,
United States engineer, governor ; Charles H. Mason, of Rhode Island, secretary ; J.
S. Clendeuin, of Mississippi, attorney ; J. Patton Anderson, of Tennessee, marshal ;
Edward Lander, of Indiana, chief justice ; Victor Monroe, of Kentucky, and O. B.
McFadden, of Pennsylvania, associate justices. Marshal Anderson arrived early in
the summer, and took the census provided for in the act, returning a total population of
3,96o, of whom 1,682 were voters. Governor Stevens was in charge of the expedition
sent out by the war department to survey a northern route for a trans-continental rail-
load, and was thus occupied all the summer and fall. Upon crossing the boundary
line of the new territory September 29, 1853, he issued a proclamation from the sum-
mit of the Rocky mountains, declaring the act of congress and as.suming his duties as
executive. He arrived in Olympia in November, and on the twenty-eighth issued a
second proclamation, dividing the territory into judicial and legislative districts and
calling an election the following January. Until this time the counties north of the
Columbia had constituted the second judicial district of Oregon, William H. Strong,
associate justice, presiding. They were Clarke, Lewis, Pacific, Thurston, Pierce, King,
and Jefferson, all but the first three having been created by the Oregon legislature
during the session of 1852-3.

The legislature chosen in January assembled at Olympia the following month;
and in accordance with provisions of the organic act, chose that place for the permanent
seat of government. They created ten counties, retaining the name and general loca-
tion of those set off by the Oregon legislature. The counties were Clarke, Lewis,
Pacific, Thurston, Pierce, King, Jefferson, Island, Chehalis, Clallam, Cowlitz, Sawamish
(now Mason), Skamania, Wahkiakum, and Walla Walla. Among these, the repre-
sentation in the assembly was apportioned, and the territory was divided into judicial
districts. The legislature adopted a code of 2)rocedure, substantially the same as in
force at the present time. At the election in January, Columbia Lancaster, first chief
justice of the Oregon provisional government, was chosen delegate to congress by
the democrats, his whig opponent being Col. William H. Wallace During the first
two years, considerable annoyance was caused by hostile incursions into northern por-
tions of the territory by Indians from British Columbia. Some difficulty was expe-
rienced, also, with Indians at home, but the energetic action of Governor Stevens and
the troojts at Fort Steilaconm prevented a serious outbi-eak until the fall of IS.")."), when

the Oregou-Wasliiugtou Indian war Avas begnn and waged with great expense to Ijoth
territories. Hostilities were begii u abont the same time b^' the powerful Indian tribes of the
Columbia river and those of Southern Oregon, which taxed to the utmost the resources
and power of the two territories and that portion of the United States army stationed
on the coast. The simultaneous beginning of hostilities in these two sections, so widely
separated, has been pointed to by many as an evidence of a conspiracy between the
natives of Eogue river valley and Columbia river ; but the coincidence seems to be the
only evidence of such a combination. The causes which led to the outbreak along
Rogue river, and the events of the long campaign which followed, are detailed with
great minuteness in succeeding chapters, and seem to be sufficient in themselves to
account for the outbreak there, and to that narrative the reader is referred. The
trouble at the north seems to have had its origin in an entirely different chain of causes.

Governor Stevens, soon after entering upon his career as chief executive of Wash-
ington, deemed it judicious to exercise his authority as ex-officio Indian agent, and
make treaties with the powerful tribes east of the Cascades. To this step he was
especially urged by the fact that in March, 1855, gold was discovered on Clarke's Fork,
near its entrance into the Columbia. For miners to straggle through the Indian
country, without a special treaty having been made, he knew was but to court the
commission of murder by the native proprietors. He at once opened negotiations, and
on the ninth of June secured the cession of the greater portion of Eastern Wash-
ington and a slice of Oregon, excepting the Umatilla and Yakima reservations. The
treaty was signed by the chiefs of the fourteen tribes comprising the Yakima nation,
including the Palouse Indians, and by the Cayuses, Walla Wallas and Umatillas.
"With the treaty none of the Indians were satisfied, and especially Kama-i-akun, head
chief of the Yakiraas, and Peo-peo-mux-mux, the great AValla Walla chieftain. They
felt that they had been bribed to sell their country, and were resentful and bitter.
This was followed by similar treaties with the Nez Perces, Flatheads and the tribes
living south of the Columbia between The Dalles and Umatilla river. Governor
Stevens then crossed the mountains to treat with the powerful and warlike Blackfeet.

In the fall of 1875 several men who were passing through the Yakima country, on
their way from the Sound to the Colville mines, were killed by the ladians. Among
the killed was the Indian agent, A. J. Bolan, who had gone to inquire into the circum-
stances of the death of the other men. Lieutenant W. A. Slaughter, with forty men,
started across the mountains from Fort Steilacoom late in September, and Major G. O.
Haller marched south from The Dalles with a force of more than one hundred men,
to co-operate with him. Major Haller engaged the Indians on Simcoe creek, was
forced to retreat to the summit of a hill, where he was surrounded by the enemy. He
dispatched a courier in haste to procure aid, but before it could reach him his force was
driven from the Indian country with considerable loss. Upon receipt of the intelli-
gence of this disaster. Major G. J. Raines, commander of the post at Vancouver, ad-
dressed communications to Governor George L. Curry, of Oregon, and Acting Gov-
ernor C. H. Mason, of Washington, requesting the aid of volunteer trooi^s, since the
national forces were entirely inadequate to meet the emergencies. Two companies were
raised in Washington, which were mustered into the regular army, while the ten com-
panies recruited in Oregon retained tlieir volunteer organization, being under the com-

OREGON. 175

inaiid of Colonel J. W. Nesmith. This division of authority led to a want of cordial
co-operation and consequent futility of action. Sixteen other comjjanies were organ-
ized at various places in Washington territory, chiefly for home protection.

Lieutenant Slaughter, having withdrawn back across the Cascades, his force was in-
creased, and on the twenty-fourth of October again started for the Yakima country,
under the command of Captain M. Maloney. He soon learned that no troops had
started from The Dalles to co-operate with him, and feaHng to be caught in the moun-
tains by snow he returned to Steilacoom. Before his dispatch, announcing this fact,
reached The Dalles, Major Eaines and Colonel Nesmith had jointly marched north-
ward to form a junction with him. After an engagement, in which Kama-i-akun's
warriors were defeated, the Indians abandoned the country and the troops,
learning that Captain Maloney had returned to Steilacoom and required no assistance,
marched back to The Dalles, having been absent about three weeks.

Prior to the return of these two commands, another foi'ce of volunteers marched
up the Columbia towards Fort Walla Walla, where Peo-peo-mux-raux, was reported to
be stationed with 1,000 warriors. Other volunteers marched to join them, tlie whole
force being placed under the command of Lieut. Colonel James K. Kelly. This move-
ment was especially designed to clear the route of hostile Indians and permit the safe
return of Governor Stevens from east of the Rocky mountains, that gentleman being
already on his way back and ignorant of the existing hostilities. In this movement,
General John E. Wool, commander of the department oi the Pacific, who had hastened
to the scene from San Francisco, refused to jjarticipate with the regular troops, deeming
a winter campaign unnecessary and unlikely to be successful. Nothing daunted, the
Oregon volunteers proceeded alone, having a force of about 500 men.

A great battle was fought along Walla Walla river, which lasted three days and
I'esulted in the complete defeat of the Indians, whose loss was reported at seventy-five.
The troops lost seven killed and mortally wounded, and thirteen wounded. Among
the dead on the Indian side was the great Peo-j)eo-mux-mux, who at the time of the
battle was a hostage in the hands of the whites, and was shot during the excitement
incident to the battle. The Indians then withdrew from the country, leaving it in the
possession of the volunteers, who spent the winter there, suffering many hardships.
Governor Stevens returned in safety and immediately jireferred charges against General
Wool, accusing him of incapacity and willful neglect of duty.

During the winter the settlements along Puget sound suffered severely from tiie
ravages of Indians. Seattle was attacked, and all of King county beyond the limits of
that place was devastated. Volunteers, regular troops, Indian auxiliaries and the small
naval force on the sound, occupied block houses at all the important points fi-om the
Cowlitz to Bellingham bay, but did not engage in a regular campaign, since the hostile
savages were not gathered in a large body as were those east of the mountains, but
roamed about in small bands, destroying property and killing settlei'S wherever they
could be found unprotected. The po])ulation, to a great extent, were collected in block
houses for safety. Ivirly in March, IH.'Ai, the Oregon volunteers who had occu[)ied tlie
WallaWalla country during the winter,again entered upon an aggressive campaign, under
tlie command of Colonel Thomas K. Cornelius. After considerable traveling about north
of Snake river the command crossed the Columbia near the mouth of the Vakima and

176 OREGON.

followed down the west bauk to Fort Walla Walla. From there they started u[)OU their
return to The Dalles, i^assiug through the Yakima country. On the seventeenth of
April, near Satas creek, the Yakima Indians suddenly attacked the advance forces,
killing Captain A. J. Hembree, but were repulsed with the loss of two braves. An
engagement ensued, in which six Indians were killed and the others driven from the
field, without any loss to the volunteers. The troops then marched to The Dalles,
going into camp in Klickitat valley. While there fifty of Kama-i-akun's warriors
made a descent upon the camp and captured 300 horses. Thus summarily dismounted,
the volunteers were mustered out and returned to their homes.

Before this, however, important events occurred nearer home. A railway portage
was under construction between the lower and upper Cascades of the Columbia, on the
Washington territory side of the river, and quite a force of men was at work. On the
morning of March 16, a band of Yakima Indians made a sudden attack upon the Upper
Cascades. The men retreated hostility to a combined store and dwelling on the river
bank and defended themselves successfully till aid arrived two days later. On the
morning of the third day the steamers Ilary and Wasco arrived from The Dalles loaded
down with troops, and the Indians hastily decamped. A like siege was sustained by
parties in the block house at Middle Cascades, and quite a battle was fought at the
lower landing. In all fifteen men and one woman were killed and twelve were wounded.
How many Indians were killed is not known, liut nine of them were hanged for their
treachery immediately afterwards.

Colonel George Wright marched north from The Dalles in May for the pur-
pose of driving the Indians out of the Cascade mountains and across the Columbia
eastward. Early in July volunteers from the sound pushed across the mountains with-
out encountering the enemy, and united at Fort Walla Walla with another battalion
which had proceeded from The Dalles. The whole force numbered 350 enlisted men,
and was under the command of Colonel B. F. Shaw. With a portion of his force Colonel
Shaw crossed the Blue mountains and fought a severe battle on Grand Ronde river
on the seventeenth of July. At the same time another detachment encountered
the hostiles on Burnt river, and had an engagement with, them, lasting two days.
Some fifty Indians were killed in these two battles, while the loss of the volunteers was
five killed and five wounded. Meanwhile, unable to concert terms of peace with Kama-
i-akun. Colonel Wright marched his force of regulars back to The Dalles.

In the fall Colonel Wright dispatched Lieutenant-Colonel E. J. Steptoe with sev-
eral companies to establish a military j^ost at Walla Walla. Governor Stevens pro-
ceeded to that region, and had an unsuccessful council with the hostiles. When he set
out upon his return, he was attacked by the Indians, and his small command defended
itself all day and until relieved by the regulars. In November Colonel Wright re-
turned with a detachment of regulars and established a military j)ost at Walla Walla,
and held a council at which he procured a cessation of hostilities by promising the
Indians immunity for past offenses and agreeing to prevent white settlers from enter-
ing their country. It was a practical victory for the Indians. In November Puget
sound was invaded by water by a band of northern Indians, who committed many dep-
redations ; but they were severely defeated and driven away by the naval forces sta-
tioned there to guard the sound country.

INDIAN WARS.

CHAPTER XX.

INDIANS OF SOUTHERN OREGON.

Relative Importance of the Subject — Material for Writing History —Common Origin of Indian Wars -Brief
Account of Indian Tribal Affinities— Modocs, Klamaths, Shastas and Rogue Rivers were Related — Habits
of Life Umpqua Indians Decadence Invasion of Klickitats— Sources of Information -Aboriginal Desig-
nations.

Ainoug those episodes which lend interest to the history of Southern Oregon, the
series of hostile acts which we collectively style the Rogue river wars, undoubtedly,
possess the greatest interest. The period of the occurrence of these events is so com-
paratively recent that their recollection is yet fresh in the minds of many who partici-
pated therein, and there are persons not yet beyond the middle years of life to whom
they were once a present reality. To write a history of those wars is the task which
the writer now assigns himself, confident that the collection and preservation of the
existing memorials and recollections of the stirring scenes of Indian hostility will prove
a work of public and acknowledged value. For such a work ample materials exist ;
official documents, reports of military attaches, newspaper accounts, memorials of gov-
erning bodies, the acts of legislative assemblages, but chiefly the personal recollections
of eyewitnesses, make up a vast mass of evidence extraordinarily perfect in scope and
thoroughness. From such resources the compilation of a history sufficiently detailed
to interest those previously acquainted with its subject, and sufficiently ample in scope
to form a useful addition to the records of the Pacific coast, would seem an easy task
requiring but the common attributes of the historical writer — industry and conscien-
tiousness. Under such circumstances it has seemed possible to trace with considerable
minuteness the occurrences of the wars ; and it will probably be more in consonance
with the desires of the readers of this b;iak if tlie writer describe in detail this inter-
esting contest, instead of confining liiiii<i'lf in rlic in;i
tion, to tho.se salient instances in which the tcinlciic
manifested.

It will doubtless occur to the alt<'nti\c iviidcr \vh
count, that there was nothing extraordinary in lliis wa
ing circumstances connected with it that raise its
oriHnai-v Indian war; that it was a slrngt;lc. siniihii'

ler of

a piiih.so

phical disserta-

of the

age is :

Host strikingly

rises t'l

I'oin a |)cr

iisal of this ac-

that t

hcl'f Wl'lT

no distiiiguish-

ist()ry ;

ahnvc tht

' account of an

1 all" I

-...jH.rts. s;

ivc names, time

178 INDIAN WARS.

ami place, to each of those innumerable contests by which the American settler has
won his way to the possession of his home, and driven forward the bounds of civiliza-
tion from State to State, from the Atlantic to the Pacific. In no essential does it seem
to differ from the desperate and bloody contests waged against the Indians of Massa-
chusetts, of New York, of Ohio, of Florida, of Kentucky, and of a dozen other States,
where the blood of the early settlers was poured out in vindication of the grand prin-
ciple of Caucasian progressiveness. For the white and the red races are equally
unconformable to each other's habits of life, and meet only to repeat the old story of
white conquest and native subjection. Still there is much in each individual account
of .stern and bloody Indian warring to enchain the reader's attention, unwearied by
the hackneyed repetition of sanguinary fight or hair-breadth escape. So we find it in
the Rogue river wars ; a generation has passed, but the oft-told story of a woman's
heroic defense of her hearth, or the terrible massaci-e of innocents, has rather gained
than lost in interest, and every brave Tecumseh, King Philip, Red Jacket, Black
Hawk or Osceola is matched in the exploits of Old John, Joe, Sam and Limpy, hum-
bler savages though they were, and living iu a prosaic age which has not told in son|;
their deeds.

To discover romance or any elevated qualities in an Indian distance is required.
Thus separated from living aborigines by the breadth of a state, Fennimore Cooper
was enabled to give those inimitable portrayals of the American Indian which through
half a century have been unrecognized. Other writers have found their keynote in a
depreciation of the savage ; but the people of southern Oregon, long ago sated of the
Indian, will join the writer in denying to him any useful or civllizable qualities, but
will make partial amends by conceding to him — at least to the tribe of Rogue Rivers —
bravery and steadfastness on the battle-field, and patience and perseverance in the
worst straits to which he was reduced by war. To make a less acknowledgment
were to do discredit to the troops by whom the red men were conquered, and to those
others who sustained and repelled their assaults during the years of hostility. To ren-
der this much of justice to an enemy who can no longer ask it, is befitting, nor does it
detract from the credit of the stronger race. It seems a creditable and worthy thing
that a man should have so strong a sense of right that, disregarding the feelings of
friendship and his own personal prejudices, he could write or read the truth under all
circumstances. In an attempt to tell the exact truth this account was composed ; in
the same spirit may it be read.

The principal tribes with whom our history has to deal were the Rogue Rivers,
Shastas, Klamaths, Modocs and Umpquas. Among the first four are found strong-
race affinities, and they spoke dialects of the same language. Their localities ad-
joined, their intercommunication was frequent, and in time of war they often fought
side by side. For a detailed description of these savages, see Mr. Bancroft's work on the
Native Races of the Pacific Coast, wherein is embraced an enormous quantity of in-
formation bearing upon the subject. The four tribes first mentioned abode in the
contiguous valleys of the Rogue, Klamath, Shasta and Scott rivers and their
affluents, and in the vicinity of Klamath, Tule, Clear and Goose lakes. The country
about the three latter belonging exclusively to the Modocs, whose habitations were
mainly in California. The Rogue river valley was occupied, i)revious to the advent

^H

INDIAN WARS. 179

of tlie wliites, by the powerful and imj)ortant tribe known by the name of the river.
Branches of the tribe, more or less corrupted by intermixture with the neighboring
Umpquas and others, lived on the Illinois, Applegate, Big Butte and other tributary
streams, always paying to the head chief of the tribe the allegiance customary to the
aboriginal headship. Along the Klamath river and about Klamath lake dwelt a
strong tribe, generally known as the Klamaths. The Shastas had their home about
the base of the great mountain of that name. These four tribes, apparently equally
numerous and powerful, formed, with others, what Bancroft has styled the Klamath
taraily. " This family is in every way superior to the more southern tribes. In phys-
i(]ue and character they approached more nearly to the Indians of eastern Oregon than
to the degraded and weak tribes of central California. The Kogue River Indians were
an exception to the general rule of deterioration on approaching the coast, for in their
case the tendency to improve toward the north held good ; so that they were in many
respects superior to those of the interior.

" The Klamaths formerly were tall, well-made and muscular, with complexions
varying from black to light brown, according to their proximity to large bodies of
water. Their ftices were large, oval and heavily moulded, with slightly prominent
cheek bones ; nose well set and eyes keen and bright. The women were short and
sometimes quite handsome, even in a Caucasian sense." Powers, in the Overland
Monthly, wrote of the Klamaths : " Their stature is a -trifle less than Americans ; they
have well sized bodies strong and well knit. With their smooth skins, oval faces,
plump and brilliant eyes, some of the young maidens — barring the tattooed skins —
have a piquant and splendid beauty." Gibbs, in Schoolcraft's Archaeology, says :
" ]Many of the women were exceedingly pretty, having large, almond shaped eyes,
sometimes of a hazel color, and with the red showing through the cheeks. Their fig-
ures were full, their chests ample; and the young ones had well shaped busts and
rounded limbs." On the other hand most travelers have failed to remark any special
l)eauty in these tribes, and some have chai-acterized the women as " clumsy, but not
ill-fiivored."

As for clothing, the men of the Klamath family anciently wore only a belt, some-
times a breech-clout, and the women an apron or skirt of deer skin or braided grass.
In colder weather they threw over their shoulders a cloak or robe of marten or rabbit
skins sewn together, deer skin, or among the coast tribes sea-otter or seal skin. They
tattooed themselves, the men on the chest and arms, the women on the face in three
blue lines extending perpendicularly from the centre and corners of the mouth to the
chin. In some few localities, more especially near the lakc^, the men painted them-
selvi's in various colors and grotesque pattei'us.

Their houses were of designs common to many tribes. Their winter dwellings,
varying with locality, w^ere principally of two forms, conical and s(|uare. Those of the
former shajje prevailed most widely and were thus built: A circular hole, from two to
live feet deep and of variable width, was dug. Round this pit or cellar stout poles
were driven into the ground, which being drawn together at the toj?, formed the rafters
of tlic l>uil(ling. A covering of earth several inches deep was placed over the rafters,
a hole was left at the top to serve both as door and chimney, to which rude ladders
composed of notched [)()les gave access. Some houses were built of heavy timljer form-

180 INDIAN WARS.

ing H bee-hive shaped structure. The temporary summer houses of these tribes were
square, couical or conoidal in shape, by driving Hght poles perpendicularly into the
ground and laying others across them, or by drawing the upj^er ends together at the
top. Huts having the shape of an inverted bowl were built by driving both ends of
poles into the ground. These frames, however shaped, were covered with neatly woven
lule matting, or with bushes and ferns. The ground beneath was sometimes scooped out
and thrown up in a low circular embankment.

The men of the tribes were usually practiced hunters. A portion of their food
during a great part of the year w^as the wild game of the forest, and this they approached
and captured with considerable adroitness. The elk, too large and powerful to be taken
by bows and arrows, was sometimes snared; and the same fate befell the deer and ante-
lope. The bear was far beyond the power of the natives when their only weapons were
the bow and arrow, but after their acquisition of the white man's rifle, they have hunted
bruin with success. The last grizzly bear ever seen Avest of the Cascades was killed in
1877, by Don Pedro, a Klamath, near White Rock Butte, east of Roseburg.

Fishing was a more congenial and more productive occupation than hunting. Its
results were more certain, and in the prolific waters of the Klamath and Rogue, more
abundant as well. Several methods were in vogue for taking fish. Sometimes a dam
of interwoven twigs was placed across a rapid so as to intercept the salmon in their
periodical visits to deposit thfeir spawn. Within niches suitably contrived the fish
collected and were speared. These dams often required an immense amount of work
in their construction, especially if upon a large stream. (3n Rogue river the fish were
speared by torchlight in a manner similar to that in use in Canada and the far north.
Many trout were taken from small streams by beating the water with brush, whereby
the fish were driven into confined spans and dipped out. Bancroft says : "When preserved
for winter use, the fish were split open on the back, the bones taken out, and then dried
or smoked. Both meat and fish, when eaten fresh, are either broiled on hot stones, or
boiled in water-tight baskets into which hot stones are thrown to make the water
boil. Bread is made of acorns ground to flour in a stone mortar with a heavy stone
pestle, and baked in the ashes. Acorn flour is the principal ingredient, but berries of
various kinds are usually mixed in, and frequently seasoned with some high-flavored
herb. A sort of pudding is als(j made in the same manner, but it is lioiled instead of
baked."

The Indians gathered a great variety of roots, berries and seeds which they made
use of for food. The principal root used was the cainas, great quantities of which were
collected and dried during summer and stored for the coming winter's provision. This
is a bulbous root much like an onion, and is familiar to nearly every old resident of
Oregon. Another root called Ic'ice or hace was held in high esteem ; it w^as bulbous,
about an inch long, of a bitterish taste like ginseng. The ip-ar e-pua or c-par root was
a prominent article of diet and greAV abundantly upon the banks of the Rogue and
other rivers. There were several varieties of grass seeds, the huckle-berry, l)lack-berry,
salmon-berry, squaw-berry, manzanita-berry and perha23s others, which entered into
the diet of the Indian generally, or as governed by the locality in which they grew.
At Klamath lake the pond lily grows in jirofusion; and its seeds, called tro-cm by the
savages, formed an article of diet of which thev were verv fond. The women, as is

INDIAN WARS. 1«I

iuv;irial)ly the i-ise among the North .Vmeric-aii Indiaiis, performed all thework of gather-
ing these comestibles and of prejjariug them likewise. The men were not in any de-
gree an exception to the general rnle of laziness and worthlessness. Their only active
days were when in pursuit of game or their enemies. Wars among these Indians
were of frequent occurrence, but were hardly ever long or bloody. The casu.^
bclU was usually lovely woman. Wicked sorceries inflicted by one people on another
were also causes of war. If one tribe obstructed a salmon stream so as to prevent their
neighbors above from obtaining a supply of food the act often provoked war. No scalps
were taken, but the dead foeman was decapitated — a fate meted out to all male j^ris-
oners, while the women and children were spared to be the property of the conquerors.

Their bows were usually about three feet long, made of yew or some other tough
wood ; the back was an inch and a half in width and was covered with the sinews of
the deer. The arrows were about two feet long, and occasionally thirty inches. They
were made of reeds, were feathered and had a tip of obsidian, glass or iron. They
often made their arrows in two sections, the front one containing the tip being short
and fastened by a socket so contrived as to leave the tip in a wounded animal, while
the longer and more valuable feathered section dropped upon the ground and could
be found in the fleeing animal's trail. Poisoned arrows seem to have been in use, es-
pecially among the ]Modoc^<, who used the venom of the rattlesnake for the ^^i^irpose.
They macerated the rL'[)tile's head in a deer's liver which, putrefying, absorbed the
poison and assumed the virulent character itself. Arrows dipped therein were regarded
as capable of producing death. There is no record of these poisoned arrows having
been used with fatal effect on a white man, but there is no good reason to suppose that
in the absence of remedies a wound of this sort would be otherwise than fatal.

The Indian women ingeniously plaited grass, tide or fine willow roots into bas-
kets, mats, etc. The baskets constructed for cooking purposes would retaiii water and
were even used as kettles for boiling that fluid. Stones, heated very hot, were thrown
into the vessel, whereby heat was communicated to the water. Canoes were made from
the trunk of a tree, hollowed out and shaped by means of fire. Pine, fir and Cot-
tonwood were the species used, and the completed vessel was blunt at each end, and
those made by the Rogue River Indians were flat-bottomed. The tree having been
felled by burning off, or being found as a windfall, was burned off to the required
length and hollowed out by the same agency. Pitch was spread on the portion to be
burned away, and u piece of fresh bark served to prevent the flames from spreading
too far. These canoes were propelled by means of paddles. Such constructions of
course lacked the requisite lightness and grace of the birch-bark canoes of the far-
eastern Indians, nor could they equal them in speed or handiness.

Canoes, women, Aveapons of war and the chase, and the skins of animals formed
the most valued property of these savages, and were articles of trade. W^ealth was
estimated in strings of shell money like the wampum of eastern aborigines, but this
money was here known as aUi-((x-rhick or (lU-tiaa-cliiok. This cii'culating medium was
a small white shell, hollow and valued at from five to twenty dollars. Hence the
monetary standard of these savages was variable like that of more civilized nations,
but was probably a source of less confusion and speculation. White deer skins and
the sc;il]is of red-headed wood peckers seem to have been articles of great estimation.

182 INDIAN WARS.

possessing fictitious values depending upon the dictates of fashion. These articles
were the insignia of wealth and were sought after by the Indians as seal-skin gar-
ments and diamonds are affected by the higher classes of white society. " Wives, also,
as they had to be purchased, were a sign of wealth, and the owner of many was thereby
distinguished above his fellows." To be a chief among the Klamaths or Eogne Rivers
pre-supposed the possession of wealth. Power was not hereditary, and the chief who
became too old to govern was summarily deposed. La-lake, the peaceable old chief
of the former tribe, was compelled in his later years to give place to a younger man.
Each village had a head man who might be styled chief, who held his power in some
way subordinate to the main tribal chiefs, but whose actions in most ways were not
regulated by the head chief. A new settlement being formed a chief was elected who
held his power until deposed by his subjects or nntil death removed him. Frequently
from a multiplicity of candidates for the chiefshi^) two were chosen, who together ad-
ministered the affiiirs of the tribe, the divided authority appearing to have been con-
sistent with peace and friendliness. ' One of the two was usually styled peace chief, tha
other war chief. A well-known example of this is seen in Sam and Joe, brothers, and
respectively war chief and peace chief of the Rogue Rivers. However, it does not
appear that the duties of the two were in any case divided, or that the occurrence of
war necessitated the intermission of the peace chief's authority. As the case of the
two chiefs mentioned, Joe, probably a more skillful warrior, assumed the conduct of
warfare in 1853, and possibly in 1851, though the latter fact is not fully ascertained.

The Indians of Southern Oregon and Northern California were a filthy race,
viewed from a Caucasian standpoint, but probably did not surpass other aborigines in
that respect. Their habits of life were such as to render them subject to parasites of
all sorts, so much so that an Indian deprived of the presence of pi'dlruhix would be an
anomaly. " The Rogue Rivers bathed daily; yet they brought out witli them the
dirt which encased their bodies when they went in. Their heavy, long and thickly
matted hair afforded refuge for vermin which their art could not remove. To destroy
in some measure this plague they were in the habit of burning their houses occasion-
ally and rebuilding with fresh materials."

TheUmpqua region and the coast between the Siuslaw and Coos bay were inhab-
ited by the Umpquas and minor related tribes. These possessed many tribal divisions
of which the names have mostly perished. Ultimately they belonged to the extensive
family called by Bancroft the Chinooks, a division of the Columbians so-called. An-
ciently the Umpquas were a tribe of importance and strength, though individually far
inferior to the Klamath family. This is true in regard to physique and mental cpiali-
ties. In stature the men rarely exceeded five and a half feet nor the women five
feet. Both sexes were heavily and loosely built, and were much deformed by their
squatting position, and had every appearance of degeneration. Their faces were
broad and round, their nostrils large, the mouth wide and thick-lipped, teeth irrogulai-,
countenance void of expression and vivacity, yet often regular.

As to clothing, the Umpquas were not in any way peculiar. The men wore no
covering in fair or warm weather, but in severe seasons adopted a garment made of the
skins of animals. Females wore a skirt of cedar fibres fiisteued around the waist and

INDIAN WARS. 183

liangiiig to the knees. In cdld weatlier they wrapped a robe of sea-otter or other
skins about the body.

Fish formed a staple article of diet with the Unipquas, salmon and salmon trout
being the principal varieties, which were, and still are, abundant in the Umpqua river
and its tributaries during certain seasons. The fish, being caught in some approved
Indian fashion, was roasted before fires. Being cut into convenient sized portions, it
was impaled on a pointed stick, first being stuck through with splinters to prevent it
from falling to pieces. Thus broiled the fresh salmon or trout formed a very welcome
and toothsome addition to their limited ci(isi)ic.

In times before the coming of the whites the Rogue Rivers and Shastas had fre-
quent wars with the Umpquas, but finally, through mutual interest, eifected a coalition.
From this time the power of the latter tribe began to wane. In the decade ending in
1850, the Klickitats, a powerful and restless tribe from beyond the Columbia, entered
the Umpqua valley, having conquered all the Indians whom they met in the Willam-
ette valley, and subjected the Umpquas also to defeat. They occupied a portion of the
latter's country and became the dominant tribe northward of the Rogue river valley.
The Klickitats were equally renowned in trade and war, and their services were in re-
quest by the whites at various times when other tribes were to be fought. In 1851
sixty Klickitat warriors, well mounted and armed, offered themselves to assist in the
war against the Rogue Rivers, but their presence was not desired. Similar to these
were the Des Chutes, a small but active tribe, who, under their chief, Sem-tes-tis, made
expeditious for purposes of war or barter from their homes east of the Cascades as far
as Yreka, where, in 185-t, they assisted the whites against the Shastas. In some of
their characteristics the Klickitats irresistibly bring to mind the early Jews, whose mi-
grations, success in war and love of barter form strong points of resemblance to this
Indian tribe's peculiarities. Some few of the Klickitats yet remain in the eastern part
of Douglas county, where they own and till farms, and are useful members of that
community.

As regards the origin of these tribes, only conjecture is at hand. Xot enough is
known on that topic to serve for the foundation <jf a respectable liypothesis, although
the common origin of all Xorth American tribes has been taken for granted. From facts
which have come under his notice. Judge Rosborough, formerly Indian agent in
Northern California, is of the opinion that there have been three lines of aboriginal
migration southward through Southern Oregon and Northern California, namely :
one by the coast, dispersing toward the interior; secondly, that along the Willamette
valley, crossing the Calapooia mountains and the Umpqua and Rogue rivers, Shasta
and Scott valleys ; the other wave coming up the Des Chutes river and peopling the
vicinity of the lakes. As an evidence of the second movement it is known that all
the tril)es iidiabiting the region referred to spoke the same language and confederated
against their neighbors, particularly the Pit river Indians, who arrested their course
in the south. The traditions of the Shastas show they had driven a tribe out of their
habitation and occupied it themselves.

The Klamaths have been known among tiiemselves antl surrounding tribes as
Muck-a-lucks, Klamaths, Klamets, Luuami (their own name), and Tlaniath. The
Rogue Rivers, according to various authorities, called themselves Lo-to-ten, Tutatamv,

184 INDIAN WARS.

Totiitime, Tootouui, Tootooton, Tutoten, Tototin, Tutotutua, and Too-toot-ua; all of
which may be regarded as the same word, uttered variously by individuals of different
tribes, and rejiroduced in writing as variously. For the purposes of this history their
ordinary designation. Rogue Rivers, will be adojrted, inasmuch as they have attained a
celebrity under that name, and as it in consequence conveys a readier meaning than
either of the native words the use of which, in addition, carries a suspicion of pedantry.
Tribal designations among the Indians, it is to be observed, were and are exceedingly
indefinite and troublesome to the student. For example : tribes of restricted numbers
frequently call themselves by the name of their head chief ; and the tribal name is fre-
quently used indifferently with that of the chief The Klamaths, for a time called
themselves, and were called by their white neighbors La-lakes. Their principal chief
also bore that name, and by it was known to a large part of the State. The name, be-
yond doubt, is la-lac — meaning, in French, the lake, and was applied by French or
Canadian travelers or trappers, in allusion to the great Klamath lakes, upon whose
shores these people dwelt. Adopted by the natives, this foreign word was applied to
the tribe and to the great peace chief, who became in his day the most eminent of his
race. The habit of loosely applying their designations has made the study of Indian
traditions and history very difficult indeed, and is probably the most fruitful source of
error which presents itself in the i)ursuit of aboriginal archteology.

CHAPTER XXI.

THE EARLY EXPLORERS ATTACKED.

Jedediah S. Smith's Journey Through Northern CaUfornia and Southern Oregon-First Knowledge of the In-
dians Locality of Smith's Defeat— Turner— Gay— Ewing Young Wilkes' Exploring Expedition— Fremont's
Expedition Across the Plains— Attack by Modocs Travel Through Southern Oregon— Indian Outrages in
1850 and 1851.

It is pertinent to the subject to introduce here the account of Jedediah S. Smith's
remarkable trip through Southern Oregon, from California to the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany's settlements at Vancouver. It will thus be seen that the spirit of hostility
against the whites was developed at the very moment of the latter's first appearance in
the country ; and we shall see that this spirit of hostility was kept alive until the In-
dians' expulsion from the country, twenty-eight years after. [For full details of this
affair see pages 118 to 122 of this volume.]

The evidence shows that Smith followed the coast line in his first trip northward
to Cape Arago, and doubtless he with his two companions continued along the coast as
far as the Columbia, for the interior he could have known nothing of, since even the
Hudson's Bay peojile had not made exjilorations in that direction. ^A'hile every one

IVlRS. Gen. Joseph Lane

INDIAN WARS. 185

accords to Smith the disthictiou of having led the firi-t white mea into Southern Ore-
gon, there is much left to conjecture in regard to numerous imi:)ortant details of his
passage. The exact spot wliere his camji was destroyed by Indians is not known, nor
its approximate situation. Certain manuscripts ascribe an island in [or near] the
Umpqua as the place of the tragedy ; while others mention Cape Arago as the locality in
(juestiou. TJie fact that an important tributary of the Umpqua has been named Smith
river does not settle the question, while from certain facts the presumption is in favor
of Cape Arago. At any rate the Umpqua Indians (who are well known to have inhab-
ited the vicinity of the mouth of that river) are characterized by an indisposition to
acts of violence, while the natives of Coos bay, and more particularly of the Coquille
country, achieved quite a reputation as murderers of stray parties of whites, as will
appear in another part of this book. These considerations render it likely that Smith's
2)arty was attacked at some point further south than the generally accepted locality,
though the question — an interesting one — deserves and should receive full investiga-
tion.

Under such circumstances Southern Oi'egon began to become known to the world,
and for a long series of years remained unsettled by civilized men, the only objects of
the few white persons who entered its bounds being the jJursuit of fur-bearing animals
or else urged through these dangerous solitudes by the exigencies of travel. The Hud-
son's Bay Company's agents were quick to take advantage of the information brought
by Smith, and jmrties of hunters and trappers were sent forth to systematically exi^lore
and in some sense occupy the country. This occupation extended no farther than the
construction of a permanent post at the junction of Elk creek and the Umpqua river,
where Elkton is now situated. This post, called Fort Umpqua, served as the head-
quarters of the company's employees throughout the section embracing the Umpqua,
Rogue, Klamath and Upper Sacramento rivers.

In June, 1836, as is credibly told, a party of whites, including George Gay, well
known in Oregon's early history, Daniel Millei-, Edward Barnes, Dr. Bailey, J. Turner,

and his squaw, Sanders and Woodworth, and a man known as Irish Tom,

were attacked near the mouth of Foot's creek (below Rock Point) on Rogue river, and
Miller, Sanders, Barnes and Irish Tom were killed, while the others, badly wounded,
made their escape. As narrated by J. W. Nesmith, in Transactions of Oregon Pio-
neers, 1882, the circumstances were as follows : " The party was under the leadership
of Turner and was on a trapping exjiedition. About the middle of June they were
encamped at the Point of Rocks [Rock Point] on the south bank of Rogue river.
Several hundred Indians dropped into camp, but Turner thinking there was no dan-
ger took no precautions, and the natives most unexpectedly attacked the party with
clubs, bows and knives. They got possession of tlii'ee of the eight guns with which
the whites were armed, and for a time the trappers fought them with fire-brands,
clubbed guns and whatever came handy. Turner, a big Kentucky giant, seized a lir
limb from the fire and fought lustily. He released Gay who was held down by the
savages, and finally the assailants were driven from the camp. Dan Miller and another
trapper were killed on the spot, while the six survivors were all more or less wounded.
The latter took to the brush, and without horses and deprived of all the guns but two,
trav('lc'(l, lio-liting Indian-; bv day and walking bv night, making tlieir way northward.

186 INDIAN WAES.

Dr. Bailej' was wuiiuded by a tomaliawk blow which had cleft his shin. Sanders'
wounds disabled him from traveling, and he was left on the South Cmpqua, while
" Big Tom " [Irish Tom] was left on the North Umpqua. The' Indians reported to
Dr. McLaughlin, of the Hudson's Bay Company, that both men soon died of their
wounds where they were left. Turner, Gay, Woodworth and Dr. Bailey ultimately
reached the settlement on the Willamette.

Two years later, or in 1837, a party of Oregonians proceeded to California to buy
cattle to drive to the Willamette. They secured a drove, and returning passed through
the Umpqua and Bogue river valleys. The party was composed in part of Ewing
Young, the leader ; P. L. Edwards, who kept a diary of the trip ; Hawchurst, Car-
michael, Bailey, Erequette, DesPau, B. Williams, Tibbetts, Gay, Wood, Camp, and
about eight others, all frontiersmen of experience. While eucamped at the Klamath,
on the fourteenth of September, 1837, Gay and Bailey shot an Indian who had come
peaceably into camp. This act was in revenge for the affair at Foot's creek, but that
locality had not by any means been reached, and the Indians' crime of 1835 was re-
venged on an individual who, perhaps, had not heard of the event. The act was deeply
resented by the Indians throughout the whole section, and the party met with the
greatest difficulty in continuing their course. On the seventeenth of the same month
they encamped at Foot's creek, and on the next morning sustained a serious attack of
the savages, narrated thus in the diary of Edwards :

September 18. — Moved about sunrise. Indians were soon observed running along the moun-
tain on our right. There could be no doubt but that they were intending to attack us at some
difficult pass. Our braves occasionally fired on them when there was a mere possibility of doing
any execution. About twelve o'clock, while we were in a stony and brushy pass between the river
[Rogue river] on our right, and a mountain covei-ed with wood on our left, firing and yelling in
front announced an attack. Mr. Young, apj)rehensive of an attack at this jDass, had gone in ad-
vance to examine the brush and ravine, and returned without seeing Indians. In making further
search he found them posted on each side of the road. After firing of four guns, the forward
cattle having halted, and mj'self having arrived with the rear, I started forward, but orders met
me from Mr. Young that no one should leave the cattle, he feeling able, with the two or three men
already with him, to rout the Indians. In the struggle Gay was wounded in the back by an arrow.
Two arrows were shot into the riding horse of Mr. Young, while he was snapi^ing his gun at an
Indian not more than ten yards off. To save his horse, he had dismounted and beat him on the
head, but he refused to go off, and received two arrows, probably shot at his master. Having an-
other brushy place to pass, four or five of us went in advance, but were not molested. Camped at
the spot where Turner and party were attacked two years ago. Soon after the men on day guard
said they had seen three Indians in a small grove about three hundred yards from camp. About
half of the party went, surrounded the grove, some of them fired into it, others passed through it,
but could find no Indians. At night all the horses nearly famished as they were tied up. Night
set in dark, cloudy and threatening rain, so that the guard could herdly have seen an Indian ten
j)aces off, until the moon rose, about ten o'clock. I was on watch the first half of the night.

Here Mr. Edwards' diary breaks off", leaving untold much of interest to the gen-
eral reader. As regards the skirmish at Foot's creek, just narrated, there is a doubt
of it were it not succeeded by still more severe ones, inasmuch as the record of Wilkes'
exploring expedition suggests further calamities to Young's company. Lieutenant
Emmons, U. S. N., commanded a detachment of Wilkes' expedition, which left Van-
couver for Yerba Buena, in September, 1841, J. D. Dana, the great scientist, being of
the party, as well as Tibbetts, who was with the Young party. This man informed

INDIAN WARS. 187

his new associate.s that the Young expedition was defeated bj' the Indians who killed
one white, and wounded two others who died when they reached the Unipqua. " He
showed great anxiety to take his revenge on them, but no opportunity offered, for our
party had no other difficulty than scrambling up steep paths and through thick
shrubbery."

In the work just referred to the natives about the Oregon-California line are
spoken of as " bad Indians" — as if that were their common designation. Hence, we
infer that they had, even at that date, acquired a sustained reputation for hostility to
the whites. Such a name does not afford any chie to their real character, however,
but only suggests a spirit of opposition to the whites with whom they came in contact.
This opposition probably in most cases took the form of hostility. On other and more
occasions it may not have exceeded that form of independence known to the early set-
tlers as " insolence." This, be it remarked, was a favorite word wath certain whites
and infinitely recurs in the accounts of the early contests. It is only by the context
that one can judge what the expression really signifies. To characterize an Indian as
insolent, in certain cases meant that he was on the point of murder , at others that
he had refused to allow white men to outrage his family. Such exj^ression of inde-
pendence or freedom or even of self-defense were all included in the then comprehen-
sive term, insolence. Concerning the years preceding 1850 there is a dearth of
information, whence not only are we unable to array many facts, but the power ot
drawing inferences pertaining to what is known is lost, whereby a discussion of the
aboriginal character in the light of the earlier events is impossible.

In May, 1845, J. C. Fremont, with his exploring expedition, arrived in South-
ern Oregon, having come up the Sacramento and Pit river valleys, and traveled
by Avay of Goose, Clear, and Tule lakes to the west shore of Klamath lake, where he
camped for a few days. His force consisted of about fifty men. On the ninth of May,
Samuel Neal and M. Sighler rode into camp with the information that a United States
officer was on their trail with dispatches, and would fall a victim to savages if not res-
cued, the two messengers having escaped only by the fleetness of their horses. Taking
five traj)pers, four friendly Indians and the two messengers, Fremont hastened to the
rescue, and at sun-down met Lieutenant Gillespie, guided by Peter Lassen and bearing
dispatches from the United States government to Fremont. The })lace of meeting was
sixty miles from Fremont's camp on the lake, which they had left in the morning.
They camped that night in the Modoc country, near Klamath lake, and then it was
that the savage Modocs committed the first of the long series of hostile acts which have
marked their dealings with the whites. Exhausted as they were, the men lay down to
sleep without setting a guard. The Modocs were not slow to take advantage of the
opportunity. Late in the night, the watchful Kit Carson heard a dull, heavy thud as
of a falling blow, and called to Basil La Jeunesse, who was sleeping on the other side
of the camp-fire, to know what was the matter. Getting no answer, and seeing moving
figures he cried, "Indians, Indians!" and seized his rifle. Quickly, the tra])pers, Lucian
Maxwell, Richard Owens, Alex. Godey and Steppenfelt, with Carson rushed to the aid
of the man attacked. The Indian chief was killed and his followers fled, but La Jeunesse,
Denne, an Iroquois and Crain, a Delaware, were dead. This camp was on Hot creek,
in Siskivou eountv, California.

188 INDIAN WAES.

Au examination of the trail in the morning showed that the attacking party nnm-
bered about twenty, and Lieutenant Gillespie recognized the dead chief as an Indian
who had on the preceding morning given him a fine fish, the first food he had tasted
for forty hours. On the eleventh of May Fremont left his main camp and started for
California, to begin the war of independence which resulted in its conquest by the
United States. A detachment of about fifteen men was left at the scene of the mid-
night attack to punish the perpetrators should they return to it. Two Modocs were
killed and scalped there, and the men rejoined the main party. Ten men of the
advance guard, under Kit Carson, came suddenly upon an Indian village on the east
bank of Klamath lake, and charged into it at once, killing many braves and burning
the rancheria, but sparing the women and children. Years afterward a Modoc chief
related these occurrences to Lindsay Applegate, and in response to questions, said the
Indians made the attack on Fremont because these were the first white men who came
into the country, and they wanted to kill them to deter others from coming.

Even prior to the Fremont explorations considerable migration to and from Cali-
fornia began to take place through Southern Oregon. As yet there were few people
settled south of the Willamette valley, whence came the greater number of the trav-
elers, and the route was a very dangerous and difficult one. Time and distance had
even magnified the sufficiently dangerous character of the Indians, and it required a
considerable degree of daring to venture upon the journey. However, no dangers
could have daunted such travelers as in 1848-9-50 set out for California, intent upon
mining, although their passage through this region was usually attended with fighting
and many times with loss of life. Tradition relates the murders of several men near
Foot's creek and the robbery of their camp wherein was gold to the value of many
thousand dollars ; but the time, place and names are inextricably confused. Of course
all travelers went heavily armed, and as far as possible in strong numbers. J. W.
Nesmith in a letter to the compiler of this account, says : " I first saw Southern
Oregon in 1848, when, with thirty-two companions, I set out from Polk county to go
through to California. The Indians were all hostile from the Umpqua mountains to
the valley of the Sacramento, and there was not a day during our march between
these two points that we did not exchange shots with them, though we had no engage-
ment with them that could be called a battle."

In August, 1850, two j^ackers, Cushing and Prink, were killed on the banks of
the Klamath river near where the ferry was afterwards established. Their train was
taken and their cargo destroyed by Shasta Indians.

In January, 1851, a conflict occurred at Blackburn's ferry on the Klamath, in
which James Sloan, Jenalshan and Bender were killed by savages presumably Klam-
aths. Blackburn and his wife defended their house until help arrived and the Indians
fled. On examining the neighborhood of the ferry, the body of Blackburn's lather
was most unexpectedly found, he having come in the evening to visit his son whom he
had not seen for years, and met his death almost at the threshold, at the hands of the
besiegers. Some two weeks later a party of white men from the ferry went in pursuit
of the hostiles and shot two Indians, one, a squaw, being killed by mistake while in a
canoe. The same party, being in the vicinity of Happy Camp, attacked a rancheria of
Eurocs (down-river Klamaths) and killed everv male inhabitant and two females. One

*

INDIAN WARS. 18i>

of the uttacking party was killed. This action is called the Lowden's ferry fight.
During the following May, four miners were killed on Grave creek and Rogue river,
whose names are unknown. Mosin and McKee (otherwise called Reaves) were at
about the same date killed on the Klamath.

r

CHAPTER XXII.

EFFECT OF WHITE IMMIGRATION.

Coming of the Whites -General Wane and the Shastas -Divisions of the Shastas— Their Chiefs - Rogue River
Indians -Applegate John— Limpy, George and their Bands-Table Rock Band -Sam and Joe— Census of
Indians Diminution of the Indians— Reflection on their Condition— Sentiment of the Whites— Discussion on
the Causes of the Wars.

The events narrated in the last chapter mainly occurred prior to the settlement of
Southern Oregon, which we may conveniently date from tlie spring of 1851. We now
come to consider occurrences which took place during the following years, when the
country was being rapidly peopled, in consequence partly of the discovery of gold
placers in the Rogue river country, and where a state of feverish excitement existed,
consequent upon the rapid growth of population and other serious causes. It was in
the spring of 1851 that these gold discoveries took place whose repeated occurrence
attracted thousands to these valleys. The news of the first " find " drew other pros-
l)ectors who, advancing into the previously untrodden wilds, speedily found other rich
deposits, and so within a few short months it was learned that the precious metal
existed on the banks of innumerable streams draining extensive regions. At the same
time numerous discoveries were being made in Northern California, and a constant
succession of travelers passed north and south on the way to the Sacramento and
Shasta valleys, or homeward to the AMllamette with a filled purse, or perhaps with
defeated hopes and an empty pocket. The mines about Yreka were being worked,
and a busy swarm of men, estimated by some at above 2,000, were digging for gold.
Adventurous prospectors had spread themselves over a vast region, and toward every
point of the compass. x^ll the affluents of the Sacramento, Shasta, Trinity, Scott,
Pit, Rogue and Ump(][ua were infested by busy men with j^ick and jjan, and the aurif-
erous wealth of the country speedily became known. In June of 1850, Dollarhide
and pai'ty discovered the Scott river placers, but abandoned them from fear of the In-
dians and from other causes. Soon after came Scott and party who made additional
discoveries, the news of which was speedily circulated, bringing many miners to the
spot. General Joseph Lane arrived on the headwaters of the river in February, 1851,
and set about gold digging in company with his own party of Oregonians. By the
tacit consent of whites and natives alike (but as some have said l)y the intercession of

190 INDIAN WARS.

Chief Tolo) the general became a sort of mediator iu their diftereiifes ; and kept both
parties in harmony throughout his stay on the river. The Indians of that vicinity,
belonging to the Shasta tribe, were very numerous, but were divided into several bands.
They occupied Shasta and Scott valleys, and the banks of the Klamath river adjacent.
They had been separated from the Rogue Rivers only recently, owing to the death oi
their principal chief. There is no doubt that these two tribes were one and undivided
previously, but now thej were broken up and formed several communities, each with
its own chief. At Yreka old Tolo was chief, an always firm friend and ally of the
whites ; in Scott valley Tyee John, a son of the deceased head chief, was supreme ;
in Shasta valley, Tyee Jim ; on the Klamath, Tyee Bill ; on the Siskiyou mountains
and about the head of the Applegate, Tipsu (commonly called Tipsie) Tyee (bearded
or hairy chief). On Rogue river were gathered the Indians who bore that name, num-
bering, according to the best evidence, about 600 souls. They were broken up into
tribal communities of greater or less importance, and, as before remarked, all owed a
quasi allegiance to Joe and Sam, chiefs of the Table Rock band, the main division oi
the tribe. On Applegate creek dwelt Chief John, a redoubtable warrior who properly
fills more space in history than any other Oregon Indian, excepting, perhaps,
Kam-a-i-a-kun, the celebrated warrior of the Yakimas, and Peo-peo-mux-mux, the
great chief of the AValla Wallas. John's clan, the Ech-ka-taw-a, was numerically
small ; not more than fifty braves followed him to war, but these, under such a
leader, more than made u}) for lack of numbers, by courage, strategy, and indomitable
perseverance. We shall have much to say of this wily and sagacious chief, when treat-
ing of the events of the war of 1855-56. Another prominent Indian was Limpy,
— so called by the whites — who was of the Haw-quo-e-hav-took, a rather more numer-
ous band, dwelling in the region drained by the Illinois river. His character was well
known to the whites, by reason of his taking part in hostilities against them on all
possible occasions. The acts of Limpy and John have become in a great measure con-
founded in most people's recollections, and to the Illinois Indians are attributed many
acts and exploits of which the blame or credit should be given to the Applegate band.
George, another and less prominent sub-chief, dwelt upon the Rogue river below Yan-
noy's ferry. His people united on occasion with those of Limpy, and together made
up an active and dangerous force.

In the vicinity of Table Rock dwelt the sub-tribe of Indians previously alluded
to as the baud of Sam and Joe, which will be further referred to under the name ot
the Table Rock band. Their home was upon the banks of the Rogue river, and in
the midst of a pleasant country, fruitful in game, roots, seeds and acorns, while in the
river, at the proper season, salmon swarmed by the thousand. They derived an easy
and abundant living from the advantageous surroundings and were the dominant band
of the tribe. Their number probably reached at one time 500 souls ; but in addition
quite a number of Indians of other tribes were settled within the valley and through
some consideration of Indian polity, gave their adhesion to the Table Rock chiefs and
were in efifect a part of their people. This band was ever regarded with jealousy by
the whites until their removal to a distant reservation in 1856 ; but with little cause,
as will be shown in the following pages. We shall have occasion to set forth the com-
j)arative superiority of this particular band and of their chiefs in matters of civility.

INDIAN WARS. 191

good faith, and regard tbr their engagements. The people of Jackson county still
have lively memories of many of these Indians, particulaidj'- of the two chiefs. They
tell that the twain were tall and stately men, Sam somewhat portly, the other of a more
slender build, but alike in having massive heads and relatively intellectual foreheads.
In the late years of their stay at Table Rock they dressed in " Boston " style, wearing
tall hats, etc. Their manners were said not to be inferior to those of the ordinary
miner or farmer. These comparatively intelligent and teachable Indians wielded a
great influence among the surrounding tribes at a time when the utmost revengeful
feelings had been excited against the whites. The Indian name of Joe was Aps-er-
ka-ha, as is discovered on perusing the text of the Table Rock treaty of 1853, and
from the same source we learn that Sam's name was To-gun-he-a ; and a less impor-
tant chief named by the whites Jim, was in Too-too-tenni (the Rogue River language)
called Aua-cha-ara. As the before-mentioned chiefs were the most prominent actors
on the part of the Indians in the ensuing wars, further mention of them is deferred to
its appropriate place.

In 1854 a census was taken of the entire inhal)itants of the ujiper portion of
Rogue river valley, from which the following figures are extracted. The Indians were
in this enumeration divided into two classes — those who accepted the provisions of the
Lane treaty of 1853, and the outside or non-reservation Indians. Of the former the
Table Rock band numbered seventy-six persons ; John's band, fifty-three ; the com-
bined peoj^le of George and Limpy, eighty-one ; making a total of 307 Indians of
both sexes and all ages, gathered upon the reservation at Table Rock. Of these, 108
were men. The non-treaty Indians comprised Elijah's band of ninety-four ; the "Old
Applegates" (probably Tepsu Tyee's people), numbering thirty-nine; Taylor's band
and the Indians of Jump-oflf-Joe creek, sixty strong ; and forty-seven remaining on
the Illinois river; total, 240; of whom seventy-two were men. Thus the total In-
dian population of the upper portion of the Rogue river country was 547 — a number
that will seem disproportionately small to those who are in any degree familiar with
the history of their actions. To this estimate Agent Culver added twenty-five per
cent., as representing the number of alien or foreign Indians who might be found at
any time with or near the bands named. There is reason to belie^^e that the stranger
Indians at times exceeded this large estimate, especially in time of hostilities.

The best evidence exists to show that the Indian i)opulation of the valley suf-
fered very serious diminution between the years 1854 and 1855. What the extent of
this decrease was, or how long its causes had been in operation is not ascertainable. It
is a very common expression with the earlier white settlers that the Indians were much
more numerous at first. Agent Culver remarked that the loss to the " treaty Indians"
collected at Table Rock reservation, amounted during the fir,<<f twelve months to not
less than one-fourth of their whole number. Among the several strong bands of
Indians resident in the Grave creek. Wolf creek and Jump-off-Joe region, the mor-
tality was still greater ; and those intractable bands, dangerous enemies of the whites
(they spoke the Ump(|ua language btit were not of that blood), were nearlv blotted
out of existence.

This theory of the diminution of the Indians will help to exj)lain the apparently
monstrous exa"oerations of those who first Imttled with the Rogue Rivers — an exae-

192 INDIAN WARS.

geration inexplicable on any other hypothesis. Thus, Major Kearney, writing to his
superior officers concerning an engagement, professes to have been opiDOsed by from
300 to 500 Indians. Many such statements might be adduced, which with the above
theory are mutually supporting, though they do not rest on the same class of evidence
by any means.

The iwsition in which these Indians found themselves at the era of the rapid
influx of white men was anomalous. They were suddenly surrounded by a white
population largely exceeding their own numbers, engaged in the pursuit of gold. Nor
was this white population of a character to enable the Indians to remain in quiet.
Ordinary observation speaks loudly to the contrary. Says J. Eoss Browne, "The earliest
comers were a wild, reckless and daring race of men, trappers and hunters, whose
intercourse with the Indians was not calculated to aflFord them a high opinion of Ameri-
cans as a people." These remarks were intended to apply to the travelers who came
prior to the discovery of gold. With a slight modification they will apply perfectly to
a very large number of subsequent arrivals. Concerning the character of the general
white population in 1851-6, nothing need be said. Men of all ranks in life and of all
conceivable characters were there. There is no occasion to go into raptures over the
generosity, magnanimity and bravery of the better sort, nor to enter upon a long
description of the vices of the worse. Good men were there and bad. The same
vicious qualities which characterized the ruffian in more settled communities marked
his career in this, except that circumstances may have given him a better chance here
to display himself. "A majority of white persons came to the country with kind feel-
ings for the Indians and not wishing to injure them; but there also came many having
opposite sentiments." This sentence sets forth the condition of affairs as forcibly as ir
it were expanded into a volume. A portion were ready to do the Indian harm, and
circumstances never could have been more favorable to their malice. Law and justice
were not; and whenever and wherever a white man's lust or love of violence led him
then and there an outrage was perpetrated. Public sentiment to-day admits the truth
of the strongest general charges of this nature; and the venerable pioneer tottering per-
haps on the edge of the grave says sadly — " The Indians suffered many a grievous
wrong at our hands ; unmentionable wrongs, they were, of which no man shall ever
bear more." Because these Indians were poor, because they were ignorant, and because
they were aliens, society frowned on them, justice ignored them, the United States gov-
ernment neglected to protect them and they were left a prey to the worst passions of
the worst of men. To again quote, "Miscreants, regardless of sex or age, slaughter
poor, weak, defenceless Indians with impunity. There are no means for agents to
prevent it or punish it. There are many well-disposed persons, but they are silent
through fear or some other cause," etc. These are the words of Joel Palmer, superin-
tendent of Indian affairs for Oregon. In continuation of the subject, J. L. Parrish,
Indian agent at Port Orford, said: "Many of the Indians have been killed merely on
suspicion that they would rise and avenge their own wrongs, or for petty threats that
have been made against lawless white men for debauching their women; and I believe
in no single instance have the Indians been aggressors." The Oregon Skitesman, of
September 27, 1853, contained this language, which is all the more striking as being
published at a time when to utter a word in favor of the Indians was to court unpopu-

INDIAN WARS. ^ 193

lurity: "8oin(.' of the whites are i-eckless and imprudent men, who expected passive
submission from the natives under any treatment, while the latter have never had any
correct idea of the policy of our government in relation to their race, and consequently
regard all whites as lawless intruders endeavoring to despoil them."

It is useless to multiply incidents and quotations with the single view of showing
the immediate cause of the Indian wars. Those who wish to investigate more fully the
subject of outrages by whites on Indians will do well to consult the various govern-
mental reports of the superintendent of Indian affairs, and other like publications; but
let it be taken for granted at once that the newspapers will afford no evidence of the
kind sought. Nor should the evidence of the regular army or other government
officers be accepted as conclusive. There is as much of prejudice and downright
untruthfulness in certain official reports on the conduct of the Indian wars of Southern
Oregon as could well be found in any newspaper. We behold, at the close of the final
hostilities with the Indians (war of 1855-6), the inglorious spectacle of a renowned
general engaged in a wordy and abusively personal contest with certain civilians,
respecting the comparative merit of the regulars and the volunteers in bringing the
war to a close. This unseemly quarrel between General Wool and the citizens of
Oregon and Washington territories hinged upon the very least of all the results of
those memorable months of fighting, yet these wordy hostilities continued throughout
many years, and their echoes are hardly yet died away. To burden history with grave
discussions of such matters is not at all the intention of the present writer; and those who
would inform themselves upon the subject matter of the Wool-Curry -Stevens dispute,
should seek it in the files of the newspapers of the date of 1856 and subsequently.

To subserve some hidden political or pecuniary purpose, the legislature of Oregon
once procured the publication of a list of persons murdered by Indians prior to 1858.
That this list was inaccurate, incomplete and unreliable, did not affect the purjjose
of its publication. It probably assisted in carrying the measure as intended, and thus
far was of use. But that publication has done more to create unjust and erroneous
impressions regarding the Indian wars than aught else. All the newspaper pathos
concerning the blood of our slaughtered friends, all the speeches of demagogues trying
to make political capital by playing upon men's vanity, never could have appealed to
the feelings as does that simple list, containing, without circumstance, the names of
perhaps 200 persons killed within the boundaries of Oregon. It is a pity that for
purposes of comparison we have not a similar list giving the names of Indians who,
have been murdered by white men. The total would be at least convincing.

Keturning to our subject of the immediate causes of the wars, we find ourselves
under the necessity of quoting from the words of General Sam Houston : "The out-
breaks of Indians are always preceded by greater outrages on the part of the whites."
There was a very peculiar yet probably common class of outrage? inflicted on the
Indians that seem more particularly to illustrate the words of the venerable speaker.
These outrages were upon women; and although we cannot suppose that the savage
heart was capaljle of feeling all the severe emotions which under such circumstances
would agitate the breast of a white man so wronged in the person of his wife, still there
is no reason to doubt the gravity of such a matter to them. It may well be taken for
granted that such outrages were of not uncommon occurrence. The debauchery of

194 INDIAN WAES.

the Indian women was an accompanj^ing circumstance, ana donbtless the two neai'ly
identical facts had an important bearing on the relation of the races.

The scheme upon which the writer will endeavor to arrange the evidence bearing
on this topic divides such evidence into — first, that bearing upon the tone of public
sentiment during the years of hostilities ; second, the remarkable change in public
opinion during the subsequent years ; third, the opinions of intelligent and reliable
living actors in the wars ; fourth, contemporary evidence contained in newspapers,
manuscripts, etc.; fifth, the unjust terrorism of opponents of the war. The ordinary,
or what may be termed the patriotic, view of the cause, remote and immediate, of the
war, rests upon opinion only, and presents no stronger grounds than — first, the public
consension of opinion of the Indian character ; second, traditions concerning the facts
of the war ; and third, one-sided newspaper reports.

Having suggested the most important immediate causes of the war, let us imagine
that these causes have produced their inevitable effects, and that open hostilities exist.
In such a case it is manifest that the ignoble causes would sink from sight, while pub-
lic attention would become engrossed by the more important actual condition of affairs;
and practical measures rather than theoretical speculation would be the order of the
day. The varying feelings of all white inhabitants would become merged in a desire
to speedily conquer, and 230ssibly to exterminate their enemies. These would be the
inevitable results, and we might expect those who previously had been the most con-
servative and sympathetic to manifest the greatest vigor and enthusiasm on attacking
the savages. The jjopulation then, we have abundant reason for saying, would become
unanimous upon the breaking out of an Indian war. There would have existed a
constant though indefinite dread of Indian retaliation among nearly all classes, and
this feeling would have assumed a more serious import to men of family and to those
who inhabited exposed places. By degrees this wearing annoyance would have become
intensified, and the habit of expecting evil would have become, in the less steadfast
minds, actually insupportable. The feeling then, we are assured, would have merged
into one of deadly hostility towards Indians in general. It is difficult for us, in the
calmness of every-day life, to conceive the feverish intensity of excitement to which
man may be wrought, when the animal energies of his nature converge to a point, and
the buoyancy of strength and courage reciprocates the influences of anxiety and solic-
itude. We shall see the bearing of these remarks in treating of the beginning of the
war of 1855-6, where they apply with distinguished force to the noted lAipton case.
Thus we may believe it was less the actual Indian outrages that inspired the whites to
violence than the soul-harrowing expectation of them. In corroboration of these views
we find S. H. Culver, Indian agent at Table Kock, expressing himself as follows :
"The feeling of hostility displayed by both j^ai'ties would be almost impossible to
realize except by personal observation. Worthy men of standing entertained senti-
ments of bitter hostility entirely at variance with their general disposition."

The consideration of the causes of an Indian war divides itself naturally, as has
been inferred, into two parts, namely: The immediate cause or causes, and the remote
cause. Of the two, the latter is, from its generality, incomparably the more interesting
and important, but its discussion leads ultimately to a train of jjhilosophical specula-
tions not in consonance with ordinary conceptions of history, and of interest to a very

INDIAN WARS. 195

slight proportion of" readers. The student of American history, casting his eyes upon
the records of the settlement of this land, observes the multifarious accounts of Indian
wars, and remarking their similarity in cause and effect, instinctively assigns them to a
single primary cause, sufficiently comprehensive and effective to have produced them. It
would be unphilosophical to ascribe the cause of these innumerable yet similar wars to
the isolated acts of individuals, although we may credit the latter with their immediate
production. The primary cause, says one, is the progress of civilization, to which the
Irulians are normally opposed. As otherwise stated, the cause is the result of immi-
gration and settlement, which are also in opposition to the wish of the Indians. Another
authority states it thus: "The encroachments of a superior upon an inferior race."
These three propositions appear to set forth three diflPerent consequences of a universal
truth, but by no means the primary truth itself Probably the fundamental reason
could be found in race differences, or still more likely in some psychological jirinciple
akin to that by which men are led to inflict death by preference upon the wilder animals,
manifesting less hostility as species prove more tameable. Races are antagonized
though mere facial differences ; and prol^ably the principle, however it should be stated,
enters into the actions and prejudices of even the most civilized and tolerant nations to
an unsuspected extent.

Finally, if we sum up the opinions brought out by close study of all the phases of
the question as to the origin of the war, it seems an unavoidable result of the analogy
of the various Indian wars, that hostilities in Southern Oregon were unavoidable under
any circumstances attainable at the time, inasmuch as there existed no Quaker colony
headed by a William Penn, to peacefully and wisely uphold law and order. Second,
the immediate causes of the wars were due to the bad conduct of both parties, but were
chiefly caused by the injudicious and unjust acts of reckless or lawless and treacherous
white men. After a careful examination of the following pages, the unprejudiced
reader will probably acknowledge that these conclusions are stated in singularly
moderate and dispassionate language.

CHAPTER XXIIL

FIRST CAMPAIGN AGAINST THE INDIANS.

Murder of Dilley— Other attacks— Arrival of Government Troops -Battle with the Indians— Death of Captain
Stewart — His Character—General Lane Arrives — Further Operations— The Indians Chastised Governor
Gaines Makes a Treaty with the Indians— Official Acts— Agent Skinner- More Complaints Against the In-
dians— Affairs on the Coquille.

About May 15, 1851, a party of three white packers and two supposed friendly
Indians camped about tliirty miles soutli of the Rogue river crossing, probably near
the site of Pho?nix. During the night the two savages arose, and taking the only gun
owned by the party shot and killed one Dilley, and then tied, carrying away the mules
and packs. The other two whites escaped, and spread the news of the murder. Cap-
tain Long, of Portland, then mining near Shasta Butte City (Yreka), raised a com-
pany of thirty men to correct the savages, and proceeding north, encountered at some
undesignated place a party of tliem. These they attacked, killing two and capturing
four, of whom two were the daughters of the chief. The latter were held as hostages.

Probably in nearly the same locality, and certainly witliin the Rogue river valley,
several other hostile occurrences took place, which are casually mentioned in the public
prints of that time. On the first of June, 1851, a band of Indians had attacked
twenty-six prospectors, but withdrew, doing no damage. On June second four men
were attacked and robbed of tlieir mules and packs while on the way to the mines.
On the same day and near by, Nichols' pack-train was robbed of several animals and
packs, and one man was hit in the heel by a bullet. Other travelers were beset at
about the same time and place, one train losing, it was reported, four men. Says the
Statesman: "The provisions stolen by these Indians were left untouched, because a
Mr. Turner, of St. Louis, had killed several of them by allowing them to rob him of
poisoned provisions (sixteen or seventeen years before)." On June third a party of
thirty-two Oregonians under Dr. James McBride, and including also A. M.- Richard-
son, of San Jose, California ; James Barlow and Captain Turpin, of Clackamas county;
Jesse Dodson and his son aged fourteen years ; Aaron Payne and Dillard Holman, of
Yamhill county ; and Jesse Runnels, Presley Lovelady, and Richard Sparks, of Polk
county ; had a severe fight with the Indians near " Green Willow Springs, about twenty
miles the other side of Rogue river crossing." At daybreak they were attacked by a
j)arty of Rogue River Indians under chief Chucklehead, as he was called by some
whites. The assailed party had seventeen guns, the assailants about as many, the most
of the latter being armed with bows and arrows. After fighting four and a half hours
the Indian leader was killed and the rest retreated. The chief was in the act of aim-
ing an arrow at James Barlow when Richardson shot hiin. Six or seven Indians were
killed, but no hurt was done to the whites, excei^ting that Barlow was wounded in the

CEN.eJOSEPH LANBS TOMB,

Masonic Cemetlry, Roseburg.

INDIAN WARS. 197

thigh by an arrow. The Indians drove oft' four saddle and pac-k animals, one carrying
about fifteen hundred dollars in gold dust.

These events, occurring in rapid sequence, deepened the before general impression
of the hostile character of the Rogue Rivers and made it necessary that an armed
force should be employed to paeifieate the red men. Providentially, it happened at
this juncture that Brevet Major P. Kearney, afterAvards a celebrated general in the
Union army, and killed at the battle of Chantilly, with a detachment of two com-
panies of United States regulars, was on his way from the station at Vancouver to
that of Benicia, California, guided by W. G. T'Vault. Approaching closely to the
scene of hostilities he was invited to lend his aid in suppressing the savages. About
the same time Governor Gaines, of Oregon, disquieted by the reports of Indian out-
rages, set 'out from the seat of government with the design of using his executive
authority to form a treaty with the offenders ; and the task was made an easy one by
the promjDt and energetic action of Major Kearney and General Joseph Lane, who
cleared a way for executive dii^lomacy, whereas, without their help his excellency
would most certainly have failed of his laudable object and possibly have lost his scalp
besides.

The most intelligible accounts which can be gathered represent that Major Kearney
found the main body of the Indians on the right bank of Rogue river, about ten miles
above Table Rock and nearly opposite the mouth of a small creek which enters the
river from the east, and above Little Butte creek. The troops consisted of two coni-
l)anies ; one of dragoons, commanded by Captain Stewart, the other a rifle company,
under Cajjtain Walker. The latter officer crossed the river, probably with the design
of cutting off" the savages' retreat, while Captain Stewart, dismounting his men, charged
upon the Indians who were gathered at a rancheria. The conflict was very short, the
Indians fleeing almost immediately. A wounded Indian lay upon the ground, and
Captain Stewart approached, revolver in hand, to dispatch him ; but the savage, fixing-
an arrow to his bow-string, discharged it at close range and pierced the captain's abdo-
men, the point transfixing one of his kidneys. The fight and pursuit soon ended and
the wounded man was taken to the camp of the detachment which spot was named, and
subsequently ftjr several years known as Camp Stewart, and is popularly supposed to
be the spot where the battle occurred. Jesse Applegate is the authority for fixing the
location as above stated. Accounts of the battle proceed to say that the wounded man
was mortally injured, but remained sensible to the last. He lived a day, and, before
dying said : " It is too bad to have fought through half the battles of the Mexican war to
1)6 killed here by an Indian." He Avas buried with military honors in a grave near
the present village of PlKjeuix, nearly at the place where the ditch crosses the stage
road, and where ]Mr. Culver's house now stands. In later years the remains were
exhumed and taken to Washington to be re-interred near those of his mother. General
Lane said of the deceased: " We have lost Captain Stewart, one of the bravest of the
brave. A more gentlemanly man never lived; a more daring soldier nevei' fell in
battle."

Ca|)tuin Stewart's engagement is supposed to have taken place on ,)une 2() or 27.
It liappeiied that at the same time Major Alvord, with Jesse Applegate as guide, was
UKikiiig an examination of the canyon or Cow creek mountain, l)etween the Umpqua

198 INDIAN WARS.

aud Rogue river regions, to determine a feasible route for a military road. The .sur-
veying party, which included several other well known early pioneers as well as a
small military escort, was in the neighborhood of Cow creek. At the same time Gen-
eral Lane, who was on his way south, had arrived in the canyon. Here he was met
by men who informed him of the occurrences of the preceding days, that a severe fight
had taken place, and that the Indians were gathering from every quarter; that they
were hy-as solluks, (fighting mad), and that heavy fighting was anticipated. This was
news enough to arouse the warlike spirit of the General, and without losing a moment
by delay he and his little party pushed for the scene of hostilities, anxious to be the
first to strike a blow in the cause of humanity. It was characteristic of the man to
make all possible haste to the scene, and accordingly we find him on Rogue river in
the shortest possible time, an enthusiastic volunteer, armed with no military or civil
authority, but taking, as became the man and the time, a most active and important
part in the events of the succeeding days.

In his own words; "On Sunday night, while picketing our animals, an express
rider came, who informed us that the Major [Kearney] had set out with his command
that evening to make a forced march through the night and attack the enemy at day-
break. Early Monday morning I set out with the hope of falling in with him or with
the Indians retreating from him. We made a hard day's ride, but found no one. On
Tuesday I proceeded to camp Stewart; but no tidings had been received from the
Major. Late in the evening Captain Scott and T' Vault came in with a small party,
for supplies aud re-inforcements. They reported that the military had fonght two
skirmishes with the Indians, one early Monday morning, the other late in the afternoon,
the Indians having, after wounding Stewart, posted themselves in a dense hummock
where they defended themselves for four hours, escaping in the darkness. The Indians
suffered severely, and several whites were injured.

" By nine o'clock at night we were on our way, and at two o'clock the next morn-
ing we were in the Major's camp. Here I had the pleasure of meeting my friends
Applegate [Jesse], Freaner, and others. Early in the morning we set out [soldiers
and civilians together], proceeding down the river, and on Thursday morning crossed
about seven miles from the ferry. We soon found an Indian trail leading uj) a large
creek, and in a short time overtook and charged upon a party of Indians, killing one.
The rest made their escape in dense chaparral. We again pushed rapidly forward and
late in the evening attacked another party of Indians, taking twelve women and chil-
dren and wounding several males who escaped. Here we camped; and next day
scoured the country to Rogue river, crossing it at Table mountain and reaching camjs
at dark.

" The Indians have been completely whipped in every fight. Some fifty of them
have been killed, many wounded, and thirty taken prisoners. Major Kearney has
been in the saddle for more than ten days, scouring the country, and jjouncing upon
the Indians wherever they could be found. Never has an Indian country been invaded
with better success nor at a better time. The establishing of a garrison in this district
will be necessary for the preservation of peace. That done, and a good agent located
here, we shall have no more trouble in this quarter. As for our prisoners, the Major
was anxious to turn them over to the people of Oregon, to be delivered to the Superin-

INDIAN WARS. 109

tendent of Indian affairs ; but no citizens conkl he found who were willing to take
charge of them. Conseciuently he determined to take them to Ban Francisco and send
them from there to Oregon."

A few days later when the troops and General Lane had reached the diggings
near Yreka, the General himself, having determined to return to Oregon, took charge
of the prisoners and delivered them to Governor Gaines, at the Rogue river crossing
(near A^'annoy's). The General closes his account by assigning due credit to different
members of the expedition, as Major Kearney, Caistain Walker, of the Rifles; Dr. Wil-
liamson, Lieutenant Irvin, Messrs. Applegate, Scott, T'Vault, Armstrong, Blanchard
and Boon, Col. Freaner and his volunteers, etc. Quite a number of miners assisted
against the Indians, many having come from the newly discovered diggings on Jose-
phine creek to take part. A great rush of men from Yreka and that vicinity had
taken place just previous, and many of these, not finding sufficient inducements to
remain, were on their way back to California, but stopped at Bear creek and lent their
aid to suppress the Indians.

The campaign of June ended by the departure of the regulars, who took up their
line of march for California and will be heard of no more in our story. But before
the effects of their operations in the Rogue river valley had died away, and while most
of the men who inflicted such sudden punishment on the Indians were still near by^
Governor Gaines came to the Rogue river crossing and arranged a treaty of peace.
The terms of this treaty mainly consist of a promise on the part of the Indians that
they would be very good Indians indeed, and not kill or rob any more white men.
They would stay on their own ground, which for official purposes was recognized as
the north side of the river ; and they would cheerfully obey the commands of wdiat-
ever individual was sent among them as agent. To this treaty the signatures of eleven
chiefs were appended, whose bands were bound thereby to obey its stipulatiojis. But
the most troublesome and desperate individuals of the native tribes refused to be thus
bound ; and the strong parties known as the Grave creek and Scisco mountain bands,
refused to meet the governor or have aught to do with the treaty.

Something of an organization had been given to the depailment of Indian affairs
of Oregon, by the creation of a superintendent thereof, who being the governor of the
territory, held the former position ex officio. But the administration of this depart-
ment not proving, for some reason, satisfactory to the authorities at Washington, the
two offices were separated, and Doctor Anson Dart was appointed superintendent in
1851, soon after the Rogue river treaty was formed. Judge A. A. Skinner, formerly
on the territorial bench, was chosen agent for the Indians of the southern part of the
territory, and set about his duties. The judge was a gentleman of tlie strictest honor
and probity, but was singularly unsuccessful in his dealings with the Rogue river
bands. AVithin a short time after his accession to office, the terms of the Gaines treaty
being still recognized, a number of Avhite immigrants took uj) donation claims on the
north side of Rogue river, within the region informally set apart for the Indians.
Judge Skinner expostulated ; but commands and appeals to the new-comers were alike
unheeded ; the settlers remained and the Indians took umbrage at what they consid-
ered a breach of faith on the part of the whites. It does not appear that the intrud-
ing settlers in all cases maintained a permanent residence upon the land assigned to

200 INDIAN WARS.

the Indians, and this cause of complaint seems never to have assumed much magni-
tude. However that may have been, Judge Skinner was much liked by his wards,
and was lamented by them at his departure. He was ever ready to interpose his
authority, limited though it was, between the whites and the Indians, and with ampler
power might have served to obviate, for a time, the ills of the subsequent year, though
not even the ablest of minds could have permanently settled the causes at issue, since
th«y were inevitably bound to terminate in war.

As some pretended to have foreseen the Gaines treaty proved an unmitigated fail-
ure. Hardly had the governor set his face toward the valley of the Willamette,
than quarrels, misunderstanding, and serious difficulties broke out between tliQ red and
white occupants of Rogue river valley and neighboring localities. The one race speedily
grew "insolent" and the other began, as usual, reprisals. There were not wanting
unprincipled men of both races, whose delight was to stir up war and contention, and
ruffianly bands of either color paraded the country and a condition of terrorism pre-
vailed. Among the Indians, it was said, were several white men who had adopted
Indian dress and manners, and these, if such existed, as there doubtless did, must have
proved among the worst enemies of peace. Much complaint of the Indians began to be
rife very soon after the treaty was signed; and the Cow Creek Indians, always a pugna-
cious tribe, were charged with the commission of several outrages within two months oi
that event. The whites mining at Big Bar and other places on the Rogue river, and
industriously prospecting the numerous streams which flow into it, were in constant
danger. Lieutenant Irvin, of the regular army, was kidnapped by two savages (Shastas
probably) and a Frenchman, removed to the trackless woods, tied to a tree and sub-
jected to many sorts of personal indignity. He escaped however, injured only in mind,
but deeply convinced that the locality was too dangerous for a pleasant existence. This
occurred in July. In consequence of this and other occurrences, General Hitchcock,
commanding the Pacific Department, dispatched a force of twenty regular troops
from Vancouver and Astoria to Port Orford, a newly located place on the coast of
Curry county, thirty miles north of the mouth of Rogue river and then supposed
to be accessible from the former seat of war near Table Rock. Subsequent explora-
tions have dispelled this idea and proved that the military, so far as their effect
upon the malcontents of the upper portion of Rogue river valley was concerned,
might as well have been left at Vancouver. However, they were well situated to awe
the hostiles who had broken out nearer the coast. Contemporaneously with the events
above mentioned had occurred on the coast several incidents of the greatest celebrity.
The accounts of two of these, the defense of Battle Rock, at Port Orford, and the mem-
orable T' Vault-Williams exploring expedition, will be found in another part of this
work, the space deemed suitable for their proper presentation being too extended for
this article. The Indians of the Coquille river being thus found hostile, the detach-
ment, somewhat re-inforced, proceeded under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel
Casey, to teach them a lesson. Dividing his small force into two bodies, the commander
proceeded to the forks of the Coquille, and near the locality now called Myrtle Point,
attacked a band of natives, who retreating from the one detachment fell in with and
were beaten by the other. This took jilace in the autumn of 1851.

CHAPTER XXIV.

HOSTILITIES OCCURRING IN 1852.

Events of the Year -Murder of Woodman — Pursuit of the Murderers — The Steele Expedition — Affairs at Big
Bend— A Slaughter of Indians— A Peace Talk— Steele Returns to Yreka— Ben Wright— His Character -The
McDarmit Expedition -Massacre at Bloody Point -Ben Wright Sets Out for Tule Lake -The Indians De-
feated Discovery of Murdered Immigrants- Scouting at Tule Lake-- The Lost River Massacre— Three Ver-
sions— Triumphal Return to Yreka— Concerning a Murder at Galice Creek or Vannoy's Ferry — Fort Jones
Established.

The main events of importance in 1852 included the murder of Calvin Wood-
man, the massacre of Bloody Point, wherein thirty-six persons lost their lives ; and
the killing of the seven miners on Rogue river, near the mouth of Galice creek. Of
these events, only the last took place within the limits of Southern Oregon, but they
are all of sufficiently connected interest to justify a narration herein.

The date of Woodman's death is unsettled ; the author of the history of Siskiyou
says it occurred in May, 1852 ; but certain official documents, particularly a report on
the number and names of those whites killed by various Indian tribes in Southern
Oregon and Northern California, mention it as occurring in June of that year. June
second has been specifically mentioned ; but the exact date is immaterial. The man —
a miner — was killed while riding along the banks of Indian creek, a tributary of Scott
river. Two Indians did the bloody deed, and fled. Quickly the whites gathered at
Johnson's ranch and fired upon whatever Indian they could find, and making the
peaceful natives of Scott valley the principal victims. These Indians who had never
broken out into hostilities, but had rather signalized themselves by moderation and an
obliging disposition toward the whites, retaliated upon occasion and severely wounded
S. G. Whipple, the deputy sheriff, but late captain in the regular army. Old Tolo,
Tyee John of Scott valley, and Tyee Jim offered themselves as hostages to secure
the whites against the Shastas, and accompanied Elijah Steele to Yreka, where the
real culprits were supposed to have fled. All were convinced that the Shastas had
nothing to do with the murder, and that it was most 2:)robably committed by Rogue
River Indians, who, it was said, had been seen in the Ticinity, and who had now gone
north to join Tipsu Tyee, or the bauds on the river near Table Rock. There was a
great deal of excitement at Yreka concerning the matter, and the court of sessions
authorized Steele to apprehend the suspected parties, it not being supposed that much
time or travel would be necessary to enable him to comply.

The undertaking, however, proved an arduous one ; and Steele and his eleven
companions, who included John Galvin, Peter Snellback, James Bruce (afterwards
major in the war of 1855-0) Frank Merritt, John McLeod, Dr. L. S. Thompson, James
White, the two hostages, and a Klickitat Indian named Bill, rode to Rogue river in

202 INDIAN WARS.

the searcli, taking two Indians captive on the way. The first of these attempted to
escape, but was shot by the KHckitat, who was detailed to pursue him. The dead man
had been sent out, it was afterwards conckided, to persuade the Shastas to join Sam's
band in a proposed war against the whites. The other prisoner was well mounted and
armed, and proved to be a son of Tipsu Tyee, the enigmatical chief who dwelt in the
Siskiyous. Him they took along and hearing that there was a prospect of finding their
refugees at the general encampment of the Rogue Rivers, kept on to that stream.
Farther along they met Judge A. A. Skinner, the Indian agent, and by him were
requested to camp at Big Bend, where he had arranged for a conference of whites and
Indians on the morrow. Certain grievances had arisen between the Indians and
whites, which at this distant day cannot be fully made out. Chief among these griev-
ances, it was said, was the desire of " Young Sam," son of Tyee Sam, the principal
war chief, to possess the hand and heart of little Miss Ambrose, daughter of Dr.
Ambrose, afterwards Indian agent, and who was living with his family on an agricul-
tural claim adjoining T'Vault's at the Dardanelles. But this is doubtless a mistake,
as the writer is informed that the young lady in question had not yet reached two years
of age. The cause was a more trivial one, it is said, and concerned only a piece of
beef. The settlers near by, alarmed for the safety of themselves and families, applied
to the people of Jacksonville for assistance, and a company numbering some twenty-
eight or thirty, all young men, under the command of J. K. Lameiick, of after celeb-
rity, proceeded instantly to their assistance, arriving on Big Bend, in front of and across
the river from the Indian rancheria, a short time previous to Steele's arrival. Besides
the companies of Lamerick and Steele, quite a number of neighboring settlers had
gathered there, anxious to see the result of the proceedings, and these being armed,
attached themselves to Lamerick's company in order to assist in the exjsected engage-
ment. The whole of Joe and Sam's Indians were at the rancheira, and considerable
coaxing was necessary to bring them to talk with the whites. Some crossed over, and
the rest, emboldened by Judge Skinner's promises, also came, to the number of a hun-
dred or more. The Judge, always favorable to the Indians, tried to bring about a
reconciliation ; and for this purpose proposed that both parties should remove to a log
cabin situated at some little distance away. Suspecting treachery, the Indians refused
to go, although Joe, their peace chief, tried to persuade them to do so. Sam, his brother,
had recently returned to the rancheria for safety. At this moment John Galvin, one
of Steele's Yrekans, rudely pushed the muzzle of his rifle against an Indian's naked
back, desiring him to move toward the cabin. The savage made a natural motion to
resent the indignity, when Galvin instantly shot him dead. Fighting immediately
took place. The dismayed and . overmatched Indians got behind trees or sprung into
the river and all was confusion. Those of the savages who were on the north side,
began firing, but without effect, and hostilities only ceased when thirteen Indians had
been killed. No white men were injured. Old Joe, the peace chief, clasped his arms
about Martin Angell and clung desperately to him for protection. He was saved from
his impending fate by Angell and two or three others, who kept off the excited throng
of whites.

Fighting ceased, and arrangements were made for the morrow's operations.
Steele, with his Yrekans, agreed to move up the river to a certain point, cross the

INDIAN WARS. 203

stream at Hailey'.s ferry and come down on the north bank to the vicinity of the
rancheria. A detachment of Lamerick's company, embracing mainly the settlers who
had proffered their services, was appointed to go dt)wn the river, cross and gain the top
of upper Table Rock, whence they could command the vicinity. The main body,
under Lamerick, rendezvoused at Ambrose's ranch and at night returned to the scene
of the fight and crossed in the darkness at a very dangerous and difficult ford near the
rancheria. When across they stopped until it grew light, and then moved toward the
Indian stnmghold which was surrounded by thick shrubbery, interlaced and nearly
impervious to man or beast. When within shooting distance the Indians oj^ened fire
on them, which was returned, and as the expected reinforcements had not arrived, the
troops had to wait. Sometime in the forenoon the settlers appeared, when the Indians
immediately proclaimed their desire for a klose toa wa. This the volunteers somewhat
objected to, as it dispelled all chance of fighting for which they were eager and
now so well prepared. A council of war was held, and it was decided that in view
of the fact that the Indians had already suffered much damage, and the cause of
the difficulty did not warrant a war of extermination, it would be best to have a
talk. The contending forces soon came to an amicable understanding and agreed
to let the past be buried with the hatchet, and then the volunteers returned
home. Steele's company moved down the river as agreed upon, but found that
peace had been restored before their arrival. They then returned to Yreka. Even
their homeward journey was not without its share of excitement, for it apjiears
the party, in order to avoid Tipsu Tyee, who was supposed to spend his time watching
for the scalps of all those who passed his domains, took a wide and painful circuit
through the untrodden wilds and suffered somewhat from hunger as well as apprehen-
sion. The Steele expedition failed to arrest the two murderers, and was beside some-
what expensive to its leader, who afterwards deposed that it cost him $2,000 which
he could get nobody to pay.

About the time of Steele's departure from Yreka, Ben Wright, the Indian fighter
par excellence of all the country around, also set out from that town in search of the
two murderers of Woodman ; he was accorajjanied by several Indians, among them
being Scar-face, a Shasta sub-chief, a man much suspected by the whites. Proceeding
toward the Klamath the party was divided and Scar-face, venturing near Yreka alone,
was seen and pursued by several whites who sought to add him to their already long
list of " good Indians " slain in revenge for the killing of a man they had doubtless
never heard of. The terror-struck Indian, on foot as he was, led them a race of
eighteen miles along the hill sides before he was taken by his mounted pursuers. He
was then hung to a tree in what is now known as Scar-face gulch. Wright was more
fortunate than Steele ia his search, for he returned to Scott valley with two prisoners,
who were tried by a citizens' court at the Lone Star ranch, where immense crowds of
men from Yreka, Humbug, Scott river and other mining centers attended. They found
one of the prisoners guilty and hanged him immediately ; the other one was allowed
to go. Thus ended the Woodman tragedy.

The people of Jacksonville and Yreka became much exercised in the summer of
1852 in regard to the probable fate of the immigrants of that year, who were coming

204 INDIAN WARS.

in large numbers by way of the southern route from Fort Hall via Clear lake and Tule
lake. The Indians on the route, consisting mainly of Piutes and Modocs, had long
been regarded as hostile, and the advance parties of that year's immigration reported
them as being exceedingly troublesome. During the previous year the settlers of
Yreka had lost quite a number of horses by the Modocs, part of them being recovered
by Ben Wright with a small company of miners, who pursued the Indians. This Ben
Wright enters largely into the history of Indian matters in Northern California and
Southern Oregon, and divides the honors of a successful Indian fighter with such
men as Kit Carson and other celebrated frontiersmen. Much has been written of him,
and his career would apj^ear to bear out in full both the praises bestowed, on him as
a courageous and successful scout and a skilled mountaineer. In any other walk
of life, or amid any other surroundings, Wright doubtless would never have been
heard of. But circumstance, which has made and marred the fortune of so many,
raised him into prominence as an " Indian fighter " — an unenviable occupation, one
would think, but seemingly the object of many men's ambition. Wright, we are told,
was the son of Quaker parents ; but the peaceful tenets of that sect were set at naught
by their son, who was possessed of a spirit of adventure and a disposition as foolhardy
and reckless as ever guided man. After years spent in living with or fighting against
Indians, he found himself, in the early part of 1851, on Scott river, a digger of gold.
From here he went, during the same year, in search of the stolen horses, and returned
measurably successful, driving the horses and carrying some Indian scalps. Indeed he
was quite an Indian in habits and appearance, living with a squaw, wearing long, black
and glossy hair, which fell to his belt — a fashion aped by the inferior cow boy — dress-
ing in buckskin and getting himself up to look the Indian as nearly as possible. He
fought Indians after the manner of their own warfare, even to the scalping and muti-
lating of the dead, and to the use of strategy and treachery to get the foe within his
grasp; but to his own race he was ever true and honorable, though his associates were
far below even the low standard of society then existing. By the Indians who encoun-
tered him, he was regarded as the greatest warrior living; and taking all things together
he was just the man for the emergency. Let the good results and the accompanying
circumstances be the palliation of his methods.

Early in the summer of J 852, a letter was received at Yreka from an immigrant,
who was on his way to that place, saying that great suffering would ensue if the train
was not met by a supply of provisions. In consequence of this statement, a company
of men was organized, with Charles McDermit as captain, and provisions being con-
tributed by merchants and others of Yreka, the train set out for Lost river. After
passing Tule lake they were met by a jDarty of men who had j^acked across the jilains.
McDermit and his company went on, and the packers continued toward Yreka. When
they reached Bloody Point, on the north side of Tule lake, they were surprised by the
Modocs who were hid in the tules bordering the trail, and who rose up and discharged
volleys of arrows at them at short range. All these men were killed save one, Cofiin
by name, who cut the pack from ahorse, mounted the aniinal and riding to Yreka gave
the alarm. Bloody Point is a place on the north side of the lake where a spur of the
mountains runs down close to the lake shore. Around this spur the old emigrant trail

ifl^^^^y'i.% ^ I

INDIAN WARS. 205

passed, just beyond being a large, open flat, covered with tules, wild rye and bunch
grass. This was a favorite place of ambuscade.

When Coffin arrived in Yreka the news at once spread far and wide. Ben
Wright was sent for, and a company of twenty-seven men quickly volunteered to serve
under him in an expedition to annihilate utterly and without remorse the treacherous
and blood-thirsty hostiles who performed the deed. These set out without loss of a
moment, being well supplied with arms, horses and provisions, by the benevolent citi-
zens of Yreka. But meanwhile the savages had not been idle. McDermit, not hear-
ing of the tragic fate of the packers, had continued on, meeting at Black Rock two
teams, for whose guidance he detailed three men, John Onsby, Thomas H. Coats assem-
blyman-elect of Siskiyou county and a favorably known young man, and James Long.
About the last of August the teams encamped at Clear lake, and the next day the
three guides rode on in advance to select a proper halting place at noon. One of the
trains delayed somewhat to make repairs to wagons, and thus was separated from the
foremost one, which included thirty men, one woman and a boy. As they came over
the divide, they saw the Indians about Bloody Point, while the guides were unsus-
pectingly riding into danger. They disappeared around the point when shots were
fired, and the three were butchered relentlessly by the savages, who retired again to
the tides to wait for fresh victims. The men with the train divided themselves into
a front and a rear guard and kept the savages at bay until reaching the flat. Here
they made a barricade of their six wagons and retired within it for jjrotection. By
being constantly on their guard they managed to thwart the attemjits of the Indians
to dispossess them, but were kept closely beleaguered until noon the next day, when
the Modocs drew off to attack the other train. These men, however, more wise than
the first, drove over the hill, thus avoiding the ambush so carefully laid for them, and
found safety in the barricade with the others.

In the afternoon Ben Wright ajjpeared, and taking in the situation at a glance,
did not pause to communicate with the whites, but furiously charged the Modocs even
in the midst of the tides, and attempted to cut them off from their boats. The sav-
ages stampeded, and making for the water, were mingled indiscriminately with
AVright's men, who killed them almost without resistance. All along the bank of the
lake the fight raged ; the volunteers shooting and cutting with a ferocity suited to a
combat with such cruel adversaries. The savages sought only to reach their boats and
get out of range, and even in this they but partly succeeded, for an undetermined
number, ranging from twenty to forty, if we may believe the ordinary accounts, met a
richly deserved fate.

Several succeeding days were spent in search for the Modocs' victims, and the
mangled bodies of many immigrants were found, whose death had not been heard of.
Two of these were women and one a little child. They were all mutilated and disfig-
ured horribly, bej^ond recognition in probably every case. Portions of wagons were
found, and camp utensils, fire-arms, clothing, money, and other articles, which con-
clusively showed that an entire emigrant train must have fallen a prey to the demoni-
acal hostility of the Indians. Twenty-two bodies were found and buried by Wright's
company and fourteen by that of Captain Ross. Of these hist several were of women
and children, and all disfiourcd and mutilated.

206 INDIAN WAES.

Tlie stay of Captain Ross' Jacksonville company was necessarily shorter than that
of the Yreka men, but considerable service was clone, nevertheless, in j^rotecting immi-
grants and assisting in the search for the murdered peojile. The comj)any left Jack-
sonville in hot haste after thirty men had volunteered, the news of the attack on the
pack train arriving in the evening. By the next morning the company was ready to
march. Daniel Barnes was chosen first lieutenant, Nathan Olney, second. Returning
homeward, Ctiptain Ross escorted Snelling's train, the largest one of the year, safely
to its destination at Yreka, and afterwards proceeded to Jacksonville.

A three-months' campaign by Wright's comjjany, with active scouting and a good
deal of skirmishing with hostile parties, effectually protected the immigrant trains
coming west. Captain Wright being well supplied with ammunition and provisions
contributed by the joeople of Northern California, was enabled to protract his stay until
all the immigrants had passed, some of whom were provided with escorts from his com-
pany and McDermit's, reducing Wright's strength to eighteen men. With these he
determined on a campaign against the savages, the main body of whom were securely
posted on an island in Tule lake. A company of U. S. dragoons under Major Fitzgerald,
had materially assisted, by scouting along the shores of the lake, obliging all the
hostiles to seek refuge on the island. A boat was provided, l)eing hauled out from
Yreka, in which six armed men reconnoitered almost daily the savages' position. The
Modocs had large supplies of fish, grass seeds, wo-cus (pond lily), camas, and ijy-n,
which were their chief articles of sustenance, stored away in caches around the lake.
These were nosed out by Wright's men, assisted by five Shastas and Swill, a Columbia
river Indian, a stray Umatilla, and destroyed. The loss affected the Modocs seriously,
and they thought of coming to terms. Old Mary, a stray squaw, was sent out to the
island, and after a day or two forty Indians came over and peace appeared about to
spread her snowy wings over the scene. The object of Captain Wright, however, was
not to secure peace, but to kill Indians; and this he set about. As to the manner in
which he did it, accounts differ widely.

Captain Goodall, now residing at Kanaka Flat, near Jacksonville, may be esteemed
a credible witness, as he lived in Yreka in 1852 and was intimate with the most of the
members of the Ben Wright expedition, particularly with the leader. It is reasonable
to suppose that he was in Wright's confidence as he was instrumental in sending out
the party, and was the more apt to know with certainty concerning it as he, also, was
an Indian fighter of experience. The Captain says : " Ben Wright had several pow-
wows with them, and when at length it was found necessary to close the campaign on
account of approaching winter and snow, a final talk was had, in which a beef was
killed and well dosed with strychnine which I bought in Yreka and sent out to Wright.
This was given to them and by them eaten half raw. But the plan failed of killing all
of them off, for the heat of the fire deprived the poison of its strength. However it
was successful thus far, that it made them all very sick with the 'jerks,' and actually
killed five of them — that is, made good Indians of them; or in other phrase 'sunned
their moccasins.' " Captain Wright and company were discharged at Yreka, their
muster-rolls and accounts made out by Captain Goodall, and they were duly paid by
the state in scrip, and afterwards by the United States in greenbacks.

INDIAN WARS. 207

This is one, and an apparently fair version. Next comes the more commonly
accepted, but very improbable one of Wright's having poisoned forty Modocs, thus
annihilating the whole band with the exception, some say, of two who slipped out of
camp just before the feast of poisoned meat began. Several writers have adopted this
tale, for examj)le, A. B. Meacham in his ridiculous book "Wigwam and Warpath."
It will be seen that the above stories differ only as to the number of Indians killed ;
which would naturally be exaggerated as time went on. Hence as between the two,
we must incline to that of Captain Goodall. Wright, it is said, persistently denied the
story; not probably from any deference to refined people's feelings, and certainly not
from any desire to screen himself from any measure of obloquy, for he was probably
very far from caring for anybody's opinion.

Finally we shall consider the account published in the History of Siskiyou county
in 1881. This account, evidently prepared with great pains and unlimited attention
to accuracy of details, was written to be read by people who might be presumed to know
a great deal concerning the matter. Thus far, we believe, it has escaped adverse
criticism, which in the event of error it would be nearly certain to meet. A synopsis
of the account is as follows :

Negotiations being in progress, word was sent to the Modocs to come in and feast.
The camp was on Lost river, and the Indians who speedily came in, camped near by
and on the bank of the river, both camps being about one-fourth of a mile above the
natural bridge, and not far from the spot where Captain Jack and the troops first fought,
ushering in the Modoc war of 1873. Some, half hundred braves, with their squaws,
made their home in camp and lived upon the provisions of the whites. Old Sckonchin,
head chief, foreseeing trouble, left the camp as did others. It appears to have been
Wright's intention from the first to endeavor to get the Indians to restore the valuables
they were thought to have stolen from immigrants, and then to bring on a fight and
kill all of the savages he could. The time was November; the river was very low, and
had two banks, forming a high and a low terrace. On the higher one the whites slept,
while they cooked and ate on the lower one. The Indians camped but a few yards
away, mingled with the whites during eating times, both parties leaving their arms in
camp. Wright, it is said, discovered a plan on the part of the Indians to surprise and
massacre his force; but be that as it may, he was too quick for them, and put in effect
his own plan without delay. Sending six men across the river to where they would be
opposite the Indian camp and hence able to cut off their passage across the stream,
Wright himself went down among the Indians who were scattered about the camp-fires
and shot dead, as a preconcerted signal, a young buck. The other whites being ready,
continued the work of destruction and soon no men were left alive except John Schon-
chin and Curly-headed Doctor. These two 'escaped and were heard of twenty years
after, in the murder of Canby and Thomas. Forty-seven braves and several squaws
were killed. Wright's men numbered but nineteen, including two Indians. Their
casualties consisted in severe wounds to Isaac Sanbauch, Poland and Brown. The rest
were uninjured. Wright's company then returned to Yreka and were grandly feted
by the people. They rode into town accompanied by a guard of honor, their forty-odd
scalps and sundry other mementoes dangling from their rifles, hats, and horses' heads.
Cheers rent the air. The enthusiastic crowd lifted them from their horses and bore

208 INDIAN WAES.

them to the saloons, where the best was none too good. Whisky was free for all, and a
grand dinner was given in honor of the returned avengers. For a week, high carnival
reigned.

We have seen how these accounts vary ; and probably the reader, in trying to
settle his doubts, consciously or unconsciously inclines to the last version. Being the
result of long and careful investigation and weighing of testimony of parties of all
shades of opinion, it should be accepted in preference to the idea of any one man. That
poison was prepared by parties in Yreka is true, but all the surviving members of
Wright's company deny any attemjit to use it, and give as their reason the very evident
fact that there was no fun in it; most of them were there killing Indians for the pleas-
ure of doing so, and the use of poison would have taken all the amusement away. In
killing them with bullets and knives from an ambuscade all the conditions requisite to
pleasure in Indian killing were satisfied. Only sickly sentimentalism could regret the
worst fate which might be meted out to such monsters of cruelty and wickedness as
the Modocs. It is apparent that in point of cruel vindictiveness and unsparing malig-
nity they were the worst savages who ever inhabited this coast. Their attacks on the
immigrants were utterly causeless, and could have had no motive except the love of
diabolical wickedness, for the property of the whites, even their fire arms, was totally
useless to the Indians and the captured women were killed. Hence the motives which
are supposed usually to incite barbarous men to such deeds of murder, were wanting.

The aspect of a circumstance which took place at the mouth of Galice creek in
December, 1852, and consisted in the murder, or supposed murder, of seven miners, is
very peculiar. It would appear that all the evidence respecting the killing was derived,
if at all, from the extorted confession of the supposed murderers. The circumstances,
as they appear in perhaps the earliest account, stand thus : William Grendage, or

Grundage, Peter Hunter, James Bacon, Bacon, Bruner, William Allen and

Palmer, miners at the place mentioned, were missed from their accustomed

haunts for several weeks. " Suspicion was aroused against the Indians," and when,
some weeks later, Chief Taylor, of the Grave creek band, accompanied by a number
of his men, visited Vannoy's ferry to trade, further suspicion was excited by the fact of
these supposed poverty-stricken creatures having some gold dust about them in larger
quantity than was usual (or allowable, probably). They were closely questioned as to
their mode of obtaining it, and also as to the whereabouts of the supposed murdered
men. They are said to have replied that the seven were washed oS their claim during
high water and drowned. " Their manners and explanation led to a strong belief that
these Indians had murdered the missing miners, and an investigation proved that Tay-
lor and his band had murdered the entire ])aYty." He and some of his men were
arrested by the citizens, and as there were no courts yet organized in this part of the
territory, they were brought before a citizens' jury, tried, convicted and sentenced to be
hanged. Finding that the decree of the court was about to be executed, and seeing
no chance of escape, they related the particulars of the case themselves and boasted of
the share each had taken in the murder and robbery. They gave a minute account of
the manner in which they tortured the victims after they were taken captive, stabbing
them with knives and burning them with fire-brands, "just to see them jump." The

INDIA.N WARS. 209

Iiuliaas were liaugeil, tliougli Taylor tried to excuse liiiuself Ijy saying he only stabbed
the whites with a little knife, while the others used large ones.

Thus runs the account, and as it is the only account known to be in existence, we
have an imjjortant case to consider, without any corroborative evidence whatever, for
there were no eye-witnesses to the murder after the Indians had suffered for the crime.
There was no investigation at all ; and if such had been fully made it might have
resulted in showing that the seven missing miners had, with the characteristic rest-
lessness of their class, i^acked up their tools and left unceremoniously for richer placers,
some time before they began to be missed. It is certainly a common enough proceed-
ino- for miners to desert their claims without giving notice, and possibly this is what
the seven did.

It was in the fall of 1852 that Fort Jones, in Scott valley, Siskiyou county, was
established. Major Fitzgerald, on returning from the Modoc country, somewhat
before the Lost river massacre by Ben Wright, selected the site of the new post, whose
first garrison was his company of dragoons. The major being soon ordered hence, was
relieved in command of the jjost by Captain B. R. Alden, and he by Captain,
afterwards Major General H. M. Judah. Under the latter were three lieutenants, J.
C. Bonnicastle, George Crook and J. B. Hood. The two latter names are now house-
hold words for the American people. Crook, as is well known, fought well against
the rebellion and became a major general of volunteers, and since the war has done
invaluable service as a subduer of Indians, winning thereby a great reputation. Hood
was even more famous during the civil war, and taking sides with the south was Joe
Johnston's successor in command of the great army that faced Sherman in his cele-
brated Atlanta campaign and was disastrously beaten by Thomas at Nashville. Gen-
eral Hood died several years since.

CHAPTER XXV.

THE WAR OF 1853.

A Prejudiced Writer Criticised— How the Indians Procured their Arms— Indian Characteristics— Their Allies Not
to be Depended on — The Cow Creeks and Grave Creeks in Trouble— The Rogue Rivers Commit Outrages —
Murder of Edwards -An Indian's Revenge- -Murder of Wills and Nolan— Killing of Hodgings. Gibbs, Smith,
and Whitmore — Miners and Settlers Seek Safety -Organization of a Military Force — Californians Offer their
Services— Energetic Officers and Efficient Troops -The Indians also Organize— The First Fight an Indian
Victory— Lieutenant Griffin's Battle Disgraceful Atrocities— The Governor and General Lane Appealed to-
The Indians Evacuate Table Rock— Ely's Desperate Fight —General Lane Arrives and Assumes Command —
Disposition for a Campaign— The Army Follows the Indians -Finds Them -Battle of Evans' Creek — A Drawn
Battle— General Lane Wounded--A Peace Talk— Armistice Arranged— Casualties.

A certain writer for the public prints, -wliile treating of the condition of the In-
dian affairs in Southern Oregon in the early part of 1853, made use of the following
language :

"The summary justice dealt out to ' Taylor' had the effect to somewhat check for
a time the depredations of the Indians north of the Siskiyous, and they became more
friendly, and more profuse in their expressions of good will toward the whites. These
professions jDroved only a blind, however, under which the Indians matured plans, and
collected munitions of war for the renewal of hostilities on a larger scale. By resort-
ing to this ruse, they were enabled to augment their forces from neighboring tribes,
and form alliances unsuspected by the whites. In the meantime, being allowed access
to the premises of the settlers, they procured more or less guns and pistols by theft or
otherwise ; and also to accumulate considerable ammunition. In those days all the
tea brought into the country was put up in lead caddies, which being emjjtied, were
thrown out with the rubbish, and from this source the Indians collected a very abund-
ant supply of lead, and through a few unjiriueipled dealers they procured a large
amount of powder."

It may be a pleasing diversion to examine a few of the statements made with such
assurance. It is said that the Indians began, in the spring of 1853, to court the
friendship of the whites. This article evidently refers to the Rogue Rivers almost
exclusively, thus seeming to imply that this tribe had not thus far been friendly to the
whites. Yet there is an immense amount of first-rate evidence to show that this ti'ibe
was on excellent terms with the whites in 1852, both before and after the fight at Big
Bend. So quickly were the scars of war healed that Sam and Joe felt highly aggrieved
because they were not invited to the celebration given at Jacksonville in honor of Cap-
tain Lamerick and his brave followers. Several highly respected pioneer inhabitants
of Jacksonville, including two or more ladies, have now (1883) given testimony con-
cerning the unvarying courtesy and gentleness of the principal chiefs of the tribe,
when met in times of peace. Sam and Joe, they say, were favored guests in private

INDIAN WARS. 211

houses ; and by their dignified and manly ways, won the approbation of all who could
ajipreciate their sim^ile yet honorable character. They were, to be sure, only ignorant
and uncultured savages, and perhaps entirely incapable of a high degree of civiliza-
tion ; yet with proper treatment they remained harmless and peaceable individuals,
however intractable and fierce a great part of their tribe might have been. To charge
these simple natives, who were merely children of a larger growth, with such a degree
of duplicity as that implied by the writer we have quoted, seems absurd. And at the
time mentioned nearly all the Rogue Rivers were in the habit of coming into Jack-
sonville, where they begged food, fraternized with the lowest whites, and were friendly
to all. Sam, Joe, Tipsu Tyee, Queen Mary, and others were familiar figures. These
barbarian aristocrats were immeasurably above their subjects, as they never conde-
scended to beg, but took with ready grace what was offered. Their indignation was
quickly roused when their worth and dignity were slighted, and to neglect to invite
them to eat at the dinner hour was an offense which their haughty blood could not
brook. U^wn such occasions they would stalk indignantly homeward. Tipsu Tyee>
whose home was in the mountains between Applegate and Bear creeks, used frequently
to be seen in Jacksonville. This savage, less interesting and attractive than the others,
was a bugbear to the miners and settlers, because of his occasional " insolence" and
mysterious character. Yet his impulses were not all bad, as the following anecdote
will show. This is given on the authority of Henry Klii^pel, who was an eye-witness.
John Sands, a rough miner, intoxicated himself, and meeting Tipsu Tyee in Jack-
sonville, struck him over the head with a stick. The insulted savage, bow in hand,
drew an arrow to the head, and appeared about to pierce his assailant's heart ; but shout-
ing "Hiyu lum; 7iika wake memeloose mika!" lowered his bow. Experts in the Chinook
jargon translate the above as "You are very drunk, or I would kill you!" This is
certainly a case of forbearance on the Indian's part, as he had ample oppoi-tunity for
escape to his brushy kingdom in the hills.

Such incidents and peculiarities throw considerable light upon the character of the
savages, and go far to prove the improbability of any such deep plots as many have
ascribed. Their schemes could not have taken such a range as we are assured they
did. All that we can allow in this connection is that the Indians wei'e in time of war
accustomed to receive re-inforcements from such neighboring tribes as were accustomed
to fraternize with them in time of peace. But it should not be supposed that this aid
was regularly granted or withheld by the chiefs or headmen of the neighboring tribes,
for on such occasions the young men were accustomed to use their own discretion as to
their individual acts of assistance, and were not under sufficiently strict command to be
deterred from doing as they liked in that regard. There is a restless element in every
tribe and on every reservation, consisting chiefly of young braves desirous of achieving
renown in battle, and the history of Indian wars, almost without an exception, shows
that the ranks of the hostiles are swelled by such volunteers from neighboring tribes,
without any preconcerted arrangement being made; and, it may be remarked, this
element seems at times as willing to fight on one side as the other, and to their assist-
ance we owe many of our greatest victories over hostile tribes. The extent of the aid
furnished is an important, but indeterminate matter. It seems consistent with the
Indian cliaracter that aid so furnished would lie of a most unreliable sort indeed. It

212 INDIAN WARS.

would most likely occur that the volatile young warriors would desert the cause of
their friends when the novelty of the occasion was worn off. Such scenes to have been
the case in the principal war in Southern Oregon, as we shall see. Before dismissing
the subject we may enunciate the broad general truth, that the tribes of American
Indians have been found altogether unable to combine together in the sense in which
political combinations are spoken of It is a significant fact that not even Tecumseh
nor Pontiac nor King Philip was able to unite several tribes permanently against the
whites. Had the latter, with his consummate strategy, been able to consolidate the
New England tribes, the unavoidable result would have been to exterminate the Puri-
tan colonists of that country. It is true of the Indians of New York and generally
throughout the thirteen original colonies, that in their incipiency a thorough union of
the hostile tribes would have resulted in a total extinction of the white inhabitants; but
providentially for the pioneers of these now powerful and prosperous states, the Indian
character was incapable of such union. It is true that Pontiac, and afterwards Tecumseh
and his brother the Prophet, brought about a sort of confederacy between the great
Indian tribes of the Ohio valley ; but these existed for but little time ; and we may
conclude that if these chiefs of experience and intelligence, operating as they did at a
great distance from the whites, could not effectually unite the Indians of their time, the
Rogue River chiefs, surrounded and watched by whites, most certainly could not effect
that result. It appears consistent to allow only that the Indian allies were but chance
visitors or errant warriors from neighboring tribes.

The writer further says: "They procured more or less guns and jjistols by theft
and otherwise." Giving its due weight to the word otherwise, no one can dispute that
assertion. To ascribe procurement by theft, when it ls an undisputed fact that their
arms were usually procured by a much viler means, is to avoid a topic whose relative
importance excuses the indelicacy of naming it. Every one of experience knows that
the Indians often came into possession of their guns, horses, ammunition and other
valuables through the sale of their women. It is useless to disguise the fact. White
men became the eager purchasers, and the Indian who had traded a bad wife for a good
gun, felt equally the gainer. Thus both parties were satisfied and harmony prevailed.
But by and by the new found bride might tire of her white lord, and taking advantage
of his absence, might run away, seeking again the wigwam of her earliest love. In
such a ease the impassive brave awaited the coming also of the white Lothario, whose
judgment was war23ed by affection, and who to regain the society of his bright particu-
lar star, would give a second gun. Thus the Indians grcAV rich in guns, while the
white men found their compensation in gentle woman's blessed companionship. Thus
the Indian warriors placed themselves on a war footing, while the whites were figura-
tively sunk in luxurious ease. This is certainly an easier mode of providing arms and
munitions of war than by theft, even were Sam and Joe's men such expert thieves as
certain individuals insist.

Throughout the spring and the first part of the summer of 1853 little was heard
of the depredations of the savages, only one incident seeming to mar the ordinary
relations of white man and native. The event referred to was the murder of two miners,
one an American, the other a Mexican, in their cabin on Cow creek, and the robbery
of their domicile. As a matter of course the deed was laid to Indians and probably

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INDIAN WARS. 213

justly; for the IndiiUis! alung that creek had a very bad reputation. They were of the
Umpqua family, but had independent chiefs and were tar more fierce and formidable
than the humble natives of tlie Umpqua valley proper. They had committed several
small acts of depredation on the settlers in that vicinity, such as attempting to burn
grain-fields, out-buildings, etc., but had not, it appears, entered upon any more danger-
ous work until the killing referred to. The unfortunate Grave creek band allowed
themselves to be mixed up in the affair, and suffered ill consequences ; for a party of
whites proceeded to their encampment and fired unceremoniously into it, killing one
Indian and wounding another. The total number of Grave Creek Indians who were
killed in consequence of their supposed complicity in the acts and in the so-called mur-
der on Galice creek previously spoken of was eleven; of whom six were hanged and
five shot. The Grave creek tribe was rapidly becoming extinct.

In August, 1853, the Indians broke out into open war, or to limit this assertion
somewhat, certain Indians, indifferently from various bands of the Rogue Rivers, com-
mitted several bloody atrocities in the valley, alarming the settlers and causing them to
seek the protection of fortified places, while the Table Rock band under Sam and Joe,,
joined by several other bands, left their pleasant location and retired to the hills ta
escape the vengeance of the whites from whom their leaders wished to permanently
remove.

On the fourth of August the first act of the new era of hostilities took place,
being the nuirder of Edward Edwards, an old farmer, residing on Bear creek, about
two and a half miles below the town site of Phojnix. In his absence the murderers:
secreted themselves in his cabin, and on his return at noon, shot him with his own
gun, and after pillaging the house, fled to the hills. There were but few coucerned in
the deed, and subsequent developments fixed the guilt upon Indian Thompson, who
was surrendered by the chiefs at Table Rock, tried in the United States circuit court in
February, 1854, and hanged two days later. According to the prevailing account of
the circumstances of this murder, the deed was committed in revenge for an act of
injustice perpetrated on an Indian by a Mexican named Debusha, who enticed or ab-
ducted a squaw from Jim's village, and when the chief and the Avoman's husband went
to reclaim her they were met by threats of shooting. Naturally disturbed by the
affair, the aggrieved brave started upon a tour of vengeance against the white race,
killing Edwards and attempting other crimes. Colonel Ross, a jtrominent actor in the
events that follo^'ed, identifies the murderer as Pe-oos-e-cut, a nephew of Chief John,
of the Applegates, and re^iresents the difficulty substantially as above stated, adding
the particulars that Debusha had bought the squaw, of whom the Indian had been the
lover. She ran away to a camp on Bear creek, and the Mexican, with Charles Harris,
went to the camp and took her from Pe-oos-e-cut, much to his anger and grief. The
disappointed lover next day began venting his rage against the whites by killing cattle
and also shot Edwards as described. No sooner had the murder become known, than
other savages became imbued with a desire to kill, and during the following fortnight
several murders were committed, through treachery mainly.

On August fifth, occurred the murder of Thomas Wills, a member of the firm of
Wills ct Kyle, merchants of Jacksonville, who was shot when near the Berry house,
on the Phd'nix roa<l, and almost within the town of Jacksonville. The murder was

214 INDIAN WAES.

committed at about the hour of twilight. The report of the Indian's gun was heard,
as- well as the wounded man's cries, and immediately his saddle-mule galloped into
town, with blood on the saddle. Men went hurriedly to his assistance, but saw no
Indians. The wound was through the back-bone, and necessarily fatal, although the
victim lingered until August seventeenth. Excitement prevailed throughout the place
and every man of Jacksonville's overflowing population armed himself and constituted
himself a member of an impromptu committee of safety. The alarm was increased
l)y a third murder which took place the following morning (August sixth.) The vic-
tim was Rhodes Nolan, a miner on Jackson creek, who, in returning from town, at
sunrise, after a night of watching to repel anticipated assaults, was shot as he entered
his cabin door.

Somewhat later than the events mentioned above, a very serious murder, or per-
haps it may be called massacre, took place in the upper part of Bear creek, resulting
in the death of several persons aud the serious wounding of others. Tipsu Tyee
became hostile, probably in consequence of the influence of the Indians in the lower
valley, and an attack was made on settlers in the vicinity of the site of Ashland.
Tipsu Tyee was not present at this event, and no evidence tends to show the degree of
his participation therein ; nor is it material to the story. A detached party of his
band, under sub-chief Sambo, being temporarily encamped on Neil creek at the time
of the Edwards- Wills-Nolan murders, excited the suspicion of the white men newly
settled in the upper part of Bear creek valley and on tributary streams, who united to
the number of twelve and proceeded to the Indian camp. The whites being armed,
fired on the savages, who took refuge, as is their invariable custom, in the brush,
whence they fired at the whites and shot Patrick Dunn through the left shoulder and
Andrew Carter through the left arm. " One Indian only is known to have been
killed, and a few slightly wounded." According to the accounts of interested parties
this action occurred on the thirteenth of August. On the same day or that following,
the Indian women and children of the encamjiment were collected and taken to the
camp of the whites, which was the house of Messrs. Alberding aud Dunn (now the
General Tolman place), where a stockade had been constructed for the protection of
the settlers and their families. On the seventeenth. Sambo and his Avarriors, number-
ino- a dozen or so, came in voluntarily and surrendered to the whites and were pro-
vided for and retained at the " fort." Several families, including those of Samuel
Grubb, Frederick Heber, Asa Fordyce, Isaac Hill and Robert Wright, were at this
station, besides several single men whom the idea of mutual protection had drawn
there. Having ample confidence in the good faith of their savage guests, no great
IDrecautions were taken to guard against surprise, and so the Indians had ample op-
portunity for an outbreak, which they effected on the morning of the twenty-third of
Auo-ust, as asserted by survivors, but on the seventeenth as given in various printed
records. On this occasion they killed Hugh Smith, and wounded John Gibbs, Wil-
liam Hodgings or Hudgins, Brice Whitmore, Morris Howell and B. Morris. Gibbs
died soon after at the stockade at Wagner's, where the whites moved for protection ;
Hodgings expired while being taken to Jacksonville, and Whitmore, reaching that
]-)lace, died within a few days. The others recovered, as did Dunn and Carter, pre-
viously wounded, both of the men being alive and well at this day.

INDIAN WARS. 215

111 consequence of the murders described, a spirit of alarm necessarily spread itself
throughout the country. The miners ou Applegate, Foot's, and other creeks aban-
doned their places and come into Jacksonville for protection. The settlers in various
directions did the same, some of those who were better prejjared, " forting up," with the
intention of resisting Indian attacks. The people who thus pi-epared to defeird them-
selves were gathered mainly at T' Vault's place (the Dardanelles), N. C. Dean's (Willow
springs), Martin Angell's (now Captain Barnes') and Jacob Wagner's, in Upper Bear
creek valley. As soon as possible a military company was formed in Jacksonville,
having Ben Armstrong as captain, and John F. Miller, B. B. Griffin and Abel George
as lieutenants, and Charles E. Drew, quartermaster. But within a few days this organi-
zation was superseded by others, a company of home-guards taking the most of the
men. This latter company was under the command of AV. W. Fowler. A large pro-
portion of the houses outside of Jacksonville were abandoned by the owners, and these
were mostly burned by roving parties of natives, who were scattered for a few days
over the whole valley.

The people were compelled to seek assistance from wherever it might be procured
and with this view dispatched messengers to Fort Jones the newly established military
post near Yreka. The messengers arrived there on the eighth of August, and Captain
B. R. Alden, 4th U. S. Infantry, commanding Fort Jones, instantly set out for the
scene of hostilities with a very small force of infantry, not more than twenty men all
told, but with forty or fifty muskets, and a supply of cartridges. Simultaneously a
large number of volunteers presented themselves at Yreka and agreed to serve under
Captain J. P. Goodall and Jacob Rhoades, well known as Indian fighters. Captain
Goodall's company numbered ninety men, all mounted, as were those of Rhoades' com-
pany which was about sixty strong. Unfortunately the muster-rolls of these two com-
panies have been lost, so that it is impossible to present the names of all the members.
Of Captain Goodall's company a partial list only is given, which will be found in its
ap2:)ropriate place.

The volunteers raised in Southern (.)regon were six companies in all, having as
captains, R. L. Williams, J. K. Lamerick, John F. Miller, Elias A. Owens, and W.
W. Fowler. They were ordered — with the exception of Fowler's company, which was
raised exclusively for the protection of Jacksonville, and which did no outside service —
to rendezvous at Camp Stewart. An organization was here effected and the troops,
the most formidable, and numerous body of men thus far seen in this part of Oregon,
assumed the semblance of an army. Each volunteer furnished, as a matter of course,
his own riding animal and equipments. A quartermaster's department was extem-
porized for the occasion, and B.F.Dowell became master of transportation or equivalent
title. Captain Alden, by wish of the volunteers, assumed command of the whole force,
whose numbers probably reached three hundred men. All the volunteers were of
course without uniforms, wearing merely their ordinary clothes, and carrying rifles and
revolvers as dissimilar in pattern as their own garments. Their saddle animals were
horses and mules indiscriminately. It would be difficult to conceive a body of soldiery
of more irregular type than the "army" at Camp Stewart; but it would be ecjually
difficult to imagine a body of men better adapted for Indian fighting in a rough coun-
try, or for that matter, in any country. The seipicl of the short campaign wliich they

216 INDIAN WARS.

carried on showed conclusively that with energetic and reliable commanders they were
capable of the greatest services. The successful issue of their expedition it would seem
was due to the energy and vigor with which their leaders moved upon the foe, and
having found him, fought him relentlessly.

Meanwhile, the malcontents who were scattered about the valley doing much dam-
age in the way of burning houses, barns, fences, etc., left that employment and sought
security with Joe, Sam and other chiefs, who were gathered at Table Rock, making
what preparations they could against the threatened attack of the whites. They selected
a naturally strong position and fortified it with considerable skill, digging a ditch,
rearing a wall of rocks and earth, and otherwise strengthening the place. They were
reported to be in strong force, numbering not less than 300 (an exaggeration, doubtless),
and consisting of the Table Rock band, and the subsidiary bands of Jim and Jake
(the Butte Creek Indians), with the Applegates and a few Grave Creeks. These minor
bands had been worse treated by the whites than had the Table Rock Indians, and in
consequence were much worse affected toward them, and as a result they entered into
the coming contest with alacrity. The attitude of Tipsu Tyee was a subject of anxiety
to the endangered whites, but much to their surprise this Indian refrained entinely from
hostilities throughout the war, which would have been thought a fitting opportunity
for his hatred to vent itself. But he kept aloof from either party, doubtless fearing the
whites less than the defection of the lukewarm chiefs, Sam and Joe, who were deemed
likely to accejjt the first overtures on the part of the whites. Be the cause what it
may, he remained personally in seclusion until after the close of hostilities.

From the eighth to the sixteenth of August, movements were made with a view
of ascertaining the savages' whereabouts, and the vicinity of Table Rock was recon-
noitered, when it was found that they had abandoned their position and retired to the
north or west. Their trail showed that they were in great force and nearly the whole
tribe were together. They had sent out their scouts, and up to this time knew every
move of the whites. They declared themselves satisfied to await the decision of war-
fare, and that they would fight until every white man was driven from the valley.
Such bold, defiant talk naturally produced a great effect upon the whites, who were imbued
with a sense of the fighting qualities of the Indians, and added to the anxiety of many for
their families increased the feeling of apprehension throughout the valley. This feel-
ing was heightened by the news of an engagement, the first of the war, between a
party of whites under Lieutenant Burrell B. Griffin, of Miller's company, and a party
of Indians under the redoubtable Old John. This fight occurred on the twelfth of
August, on Applegate creek, near the mouth of Williams' creek (subsequently so
named). The lieutenant, with some twenty men, had reached the main Applegate, at
the mouth of Little Applegate, and proceeding thence to Sterling creek, destroyed an
Indian village. Some little resistance was experienced, and Private George Anderson
was wounded in the hip. Moving down to Williams' creek, the next day, an Indian
band was found and followed, and when several miles up that stream, the men were
ambushed by their wily foes and defeated with the loss of two. Lieutenant Griffin
severely wounded in the right leg, and Private Francis Garnett killed. The engage-
ment, which lasted three-quarters of an hour, was closely contested, and bravely and
skillfully fought. The Indians, better sheltered than the whites, met with a heavier

Times Printing Building, Ghas.Nickell. Proprietor.

Jacksonville.

INDIAN WARS. 217

loss, as they acknowledged five killed and wounded. The soldiers were compelled to
retreat finally, leaving the battle-field to the Indians. The savages probably outnum-
bered the whites by at least two to one, and had the additional advantage of being at
home. But more than anything else that contributed to this success was the fact that
Old John, their redoubtable war chief, led them, and by his strategy and foresight
secured a victory. If their chief was so warlike the individual warriors of his baud
were hardly less so. Of one of them, " Bill," who was wounded at the fight on Wil-
liams' creek. General Lane once said that he never met a braver man in peace or war.
Their opponents, without in the least recognizing the valor and shrewdness of John
and his band, sought to explain Griffin's defeat by asserting that the hostiles num-
bered from three hundred to five hundred — which is a palpable absurdity. Probably
there were not more than fifty Indians present at the fight, nor were more required.

John E. Harding (or Harden) and William R. Rose, of Lamerick's company
wei-e killed on August tenth, near Willow Springs, The two, with one or more com-
jtanions, were on detached service, or, according to other accounts, were proceeding to
Jacksonville ; when having reached a point a mile north of the springs they were
fired on by Indians concealed near the road, and Rose was killed, and Harding was
shot through the hips. , He escaped, as did the others, but died on August fourteenth
(some accounts relate that he died in eleven hours). Rose's body falling by the way-
side, was stripped and mutilated, the throat cut and an eye gouged out ; six hundred
dollars upon his person were taken, and his saddle horse also.

Other incidents of the eventful period preceding Lane's campaign of August
21-25, were the capture and shooting of a suspected Indian by Angus Brown, the
hanging of an Indian child in the town of Jacksonville, and other acts of that nature,
which reflect no credit upon those engaged therein. That stern-visaged war had
wrought up people to deeds of this sort, is not very remarkable. Five Indians, it is
credibly reported, were hanged in one day, on a tree which stood near David Linn's
residence.

On the fourteenth of August a Mr. Ettlinger was dispatched north, with letters
to the governor of Oregon and to other parties, setting forth the condition of affairs
and soliciting aid to prosecute the war. General Lane lieard the news when at his
home on Deer creek, and instantly set about raising volunteers. Fifty men joined his
jiarty, and with these he set out and traveled rapidly to the scene of hostilities. On
arriving at Camp Stewart he found the main part of the troops there, together with
Captain Alden and his regulars. The command of all was tendered to the General by
Captain Alden, and by him accepted. Preparations for moving on the enemy had been
made, and an active campaign was resolved upon.

On or about the fifteenth, a detachment under Hardy Ellift' was sent to the rear of
the enemy's position behind Table Rock, in order to provoke an engagement ; but their
position had been evacuated, and the hostiles had withdrawn. On August sixteenth a
detachment of Goodall's company was sent out, consisting of twenty-two jjicked men,
commanded by Lieutenant E. Ely, with the design of discovering the enemy's where-
abouts. So well did they perform their duty, that on arriving at Little INIeadows, on
Evans' or Battle creek, they ran upon the savages and lost several men in one of the
sharpest skirmishes that has been known in the annals of Indian warfare. The scene

218 INDIAN WAES.

of the collision was some two miles northwest of Table Rock, and about the same dis-
tance from the mouth of the stream which flows into Kogue river at the village now
called Woodville. It was on the seventeenth of August ; the men had picketed their
horses in the flat and sat down to enjoy dinner ; sentries were stationed, but soon left
their posts and gathered with the rest around the smoking viands. Just at this bliss-
ful moment there came a volley of bullets from a fringe of willows close by, that
killed and wounded ten of their number. Leaving their horses they rushed to cover
250 yards away, and gaining a strong jiosition in the brush and amid fallen trees, they
kept the savages at bay. They fought the enemy in true Indian style, from behind
the protection of trees and rocks, and probably inflicted considerable injury. Privates
Terrell and McGonigle set out for help, and before the enemy had completely sur-
rounded them got away and hastened to Camp Stewart, where Goodall's company was
stationed, and reported that they had found the Indians, and that ten men with Lieu-
tenant Ely were in a precarious situation, seventeen miles off" and the Indians hi-as
sollux.

Goodall and his men set out at top speed, and in the shortest practicable time
arrived on the field. J. D. Carly and five others were in the advance, and when the
Indians saw them they decamped at once, carrying away eighteen horses, blankets,
etc. The casualties inflicted on Ely's men were found to be — Sergeant Frank Perry
and Privates P. Keith, A. Douglas, A. C. Colbourn, L. Stukting, and William Neff
killed outright ; and Lieutenant Ely and Privates Zebulon Sheets, John Alban and
James Carroll wounded. Carl Vogt, a German, is said to have been killed at this
fight, although his name is not to be found in any official documents relating to tlie
killed in the war. The Indians had fallen back, and the main force under Captain
Alden came uj) during the night, and all camj^ed on the flat. The next morning the
dead were buried with the honors of war. Scouts sent out reported that the Indians
had retired a long distance into the mountains, setting fire to the woods in their rear,
and almost obliterating their trail. It was decided by the council of officers that it
was necessary to return to headquarters and recruit with jerked beef and other frontier
relishes in preparation for still more arduous duties. This was done ; and General
Lane most opportunely appearing, received the command of the whole army, as has
been related.

The commander-in-chief made the following disposition of his forces. The com-
panies of Miller and Lamerick, composing a battalion in charge of Colonel Ross, were
ordered to proceed down Rogue river to the mouth of Evans' creek, and thence up that
stream to the supposed vicinity of the enemy, or to a junction with Captain Aldeu's
command, which consisted of his regulars and the two California companies of Goodall
and Rhoades. This division was ordered to proceed up Trail creek to the battle ground
where Ely was found by the Indians. The orders were to find the enemy's trail and
pursue it regardless of the whereabouts of the other battalion. General Lane himself
proceeded with Captain Aldeu's division. Scouts reported late in the day of starting
that the Indians had taken to the mountains west and north of Evans' creek; hence the
general ordered a halt and the forces encamped for the night. Early on the following
day (August 23), the line of march was taken up and the Indian trail was followed
through a very difficult country, mountainous, precipitous and bushy, where there was

INDIAN WARS. 219

constant prospect of going astray, as the trail left by the savages was very dim and
nearly obliterated by fire. Late in the afternoon, having crossed a high mountain, the
command reached a branch of Evans' creek and halted for the night. The horses were
allowed to feed on the bulrushes which grew by the side of the stream and which alone
had escaped the forest fires. Indian "sign" had been noticed, it being small patches
of ground left unburned, recently killed game, etc., thus indicating the proximity of the
enemy. On the morning of the twenty-fourth, a shot was heard, which was known to
come from the Indian camp. Scouts came in directly afterward and reported the enemy
encamped in a thick wood filled with underbrush, and apparently impenetrable to
horses. General Lane decided to attack instantly. Captain Alden insisted on leading
the advance with his little force of regulars, and the whole command (with the excep-
tion of a detachment of ten men under Lieutenant Blair of the Humbug volunteers,
who were sent to turn the enemy's flank) precipitated themselves on the enemy's posi-
tion. The first intimation that the savages had of the ajjproach of the army (which
they doubtless thought still at Camp Stewart), was a volley of bullets. They were not
stampeded by this rough salute, however, but catching up their guns, entered with zest
into the fight, while the squaws and other impediamenta were sent out of harm's way.
A small force having been sent down a ridge to jirevent the enemy's escape in that
direction, all the remaining volunteers were brought into action in the Indians' front,
and each man selecting a tree, got behind it and fired at the enemy, who were equally
well concealed. The result was that the casualties were not very numerous. Captain
Alden was wounded early in the fight, and his regulars had difficulty in preserving
him from the Indians, who attempted his capture as he lay upon the ground The
soldiers kept them at bay, however, until the wounded officer was removed to the shelter
of trees. Pleasant Armstrong, of Yamhill county, a much respected gentleman who
had volunteered with his friend General Lane, was mortally wounded by a bullet in
the breast and fell, it is said, exclaiming, "A dead center shot!" The fight was very
warm, and had lasted for an hour, when the pack trains arrived with their guard.
Leaving fifteen men to guard the animals, General Lane took command of the others,
not more than ten in number, and ordered a charge, to drive the natives from their
cover. Being in advance he approached within thirty yards of the nearest Indians,
when he received a severe bullet wound through the right arm. Still exposing him-
self, he was forcibly dragged back behind a tree, where he continued to direct the fight.
He gave orders to extend the line of battle so as to i)revent the Indians from outflank-
ing his force, and feeling the loss of blood, retired temporarily to have his wound
attended to. The savages still held their strong position, and it was thought that they
could not be driven from it. At this juncture the Indians, having found that General
Lane was in command of the whites, began to call to him and to the soldiers, professing
their readiness to treat for peace. A close wa-wa seemed very desirable to them, as
they could not get away, and did not wish to risk further attacks. Robert Metcalf,
sub-agent for the Indians, went to their camp, and through him and others negotiations
were commenced. General Lane having returned to the front. Not wishing to inform
the savages of his wound, the general went among them, having thrown a heavy coat
over his shoulders so as to conceal his arm. In spite of pain and inconvenience he
conversed with the Indians throughout an interminable peace talk, and ultimately

220 INDIAN WARS.

agreed with them upou terms for a cessation of hostilities. No definite arrangements
were made upon the occasion, but it was agreed between Chief Joe, who was in charge
of the Indian force, Sam being absent, that a fijial peace talk should be held at Table
Rock, within a few days; and that the Indians should proceed there in a body and
await the results of the conference. Seven days were agreed upon as the duration of
the armistice, after which the natives were to deliver up their arms to General Lane,
and go upon the reservation at Table Rock which was to be, and afterwards was duly
set off.

During the following night both sides received accession to their forces, Colonel
Ross arriving with the battalion, and Chief Sam coming in with about half the war-
riors, with whom he had been reconnoitering for a permanent camp. It seems that as
soon as the engagement began, runners were sent out by Joe to apprise his brother of
the state of affairs and hasten his return. The distance prevented his arrival in time
to take part in the fight, and his braves had no opportunity to display their valor. It
is the oisinion of many who took part in that battle, that Joe's deliberate intention was
to throw the whites off their guard by professions of peace, and having done so to re-
commence hostilities at a time when all the advantages were with his side. It is possi-
ble that he was only waiting for Sam's braves in order to commence a massacre of hun-
dreds of sleeping volunteers. It would be in consonance with the Indian character to
act in that manner, therefore it may have been providential that Ross' battalion arrived
when it did.

Peace and good-will reigned between white and red man when war's stern alarms
were so quickly changed into the piping of peace, and in figurative language the lion
and the lamb lay down together. The Indian ponies and the American hor.ses were
turned loose to browse, and the Indians furnished a relief party to assist in bringing in
the American wounded. They themselves owned to a loss of twelve killed and wounded,
which is very likely, considering the superior excellence of white men's marksmanship.
John Scarborough, of the Yreka volunteers, and P. Armstrong, aids to the general,
were killed, and General Lane, Captain Alden, privates Thomas Hays (Humbug vol-
unteers), and Henry Flesher and Charles Abbe (Yreka volunteers) were wounded, the
latter mortally. Captain Alden died two years later from the result of his wound, and
General Lane never quite recovered from his own hurt.

As soon as the terms of the armistice were arranged, the troops took up their march
homeward and went into camp at Hailey's (Bybee's) ferry, giving the location the name
of Camp Alden, in honor of the gallant Major.

CHAPTER XXVI.

THE LANE TREATY OF PEACE AND CONCLUDING EVENTS OF 1853.

Arrival of Reinforcements— The Army at Camp Alden— An Incident— The Council at Table Rock— The Treaty
of Peace Signed— Cession of the Indians' Lands— Muster-Rolls of Certain Companies— List of the Killed
and Wounded— Public Sentiment Concerning the Treaty -Ill-Faith of Certain Whites— Tragedy at Bates-
House— Affairs on Illinois River— Cruelty of the Miners at Randolph— Indian Atrocities— Murder of Frizzell
and Mungo— War on Deer Creek- General Lane Visits Tipsu Tyee— Military Affairs— Fort Lane Begun—
Murder of Kyle— Expedition to the Modoc Country— The United States Pays the War Debt.

Reiuforcements began to arrive from various quarters by the time the forces
returned to the valley. Ettlinger had faithfully performed his duty, and presented
the governor with memorials from citizens and officials of Jacksonville and vicinity,
which set forth the dangerous condition of affairs and appealed for help. Among
other things a howitzer was asked for, and this request was referred by the governor
to the authorities at Fort Vancouver, who sent the weapon with a supply of ammuni-
tion, forty muskets with accoutrements, 4,000 cartridges, and some other articles.
Lieutenant Kautz, since general, was sent in charge of the howitzer, with seven experi-
enced men. Acting Governor Curry made proclamation for an armed guard of citizen
volunteers to accompany the Lieutenant and his charge. In obedience to the call forty-
one men volunteered, and led by J. W. Nesmith, with Lafayette Grover as lieutenant,
hastened to the scene of hostilities. Lieutenant Grover went in advance with twenty
men, and was joined at South Umpqua, on September first, by Judge M. P. Deady,
who was on his way to Jacksonville to hold court. The next night they stopped at
Levens' station, and a day or two later came to Table Rock, too late to be of service,
but in time to assist at the peace talk. Joel Palmer, superintendent of Lidian affairs
in Oregon, and Samuel H. Culver, government Indian agent, successor of Judge Skin-
ner, who had resigned his charge, also arrived. From Port Orford came Captain A.
J. Smith, with his comjiany of the first dragoons, sixty men in uniform, an imjjosing
and unfamiliar sight to the peojile of the valley. These had slowly and laboriously
toiled through devious trails, over fallen trees and through the almost impenetrable
wildwood tangles along Rogue river to where their assistance might be needed, but
only to find their services useless, unless it was to awe the haughty savage whose heart
was yet divided in its councils. Owing to Palmer's failure to arrive at the time ap-
pointed, the peace talk was postponed until September tenth. Meantime the volunteers
lay about headquarters talking over occurrences of the past fortnight and speculating
upon those to come. They were 400 strong, and had little need to fear the results
of future deliberations. Besides, Smith and Kautz were at hand and the former's
sabres and the hitter's twelve-pound howitzer with its shells, spherical case shot and
cannister, would soon make short work of the comparatively defenseless aborigines.

222 INDIAN WAES.

The latter, too, talked aud thougbt of the new disijeusation of affairs, and looked with
wonder and awe upon such preparations for their injury, and begged General Lane —
" Tyee Joe Lane " — not to have the luj-as rife fired, which took " a hat-full of powder
and would shoot a tree down."

The inevitable w'ar correspondent was abroad, even in that day, and under the
title of " Socks " wrote to the Statesman of his visit to headquarters :

" Never having seen General Lane my curiosity prompted me to visit his camp
day before yesterday. Having seen generals in the States togged out in epaulets, gold
lace, cocked hats and long, shining swords, I expected to find something of the kind
at headquarters. But fancy my surj^rise on being introduced to a robust, good-looking
middle-aged man, with his right arm in a sling, the shirt sleeve slit ojaen and dangling
bloody from his shoulder, his legs incased in an old pair of gray breeches that looked
like those worn by General Scott when he was exposed to the ' fire in the rear.' One
end of them was supported by a buckskin strap, in place of a susjjender, while one of
the legs rested upon the remains of an old boot. His head was ornamented by a for-
age cap that from its appearance recalled remembrance of Braddock's defeat. This
comjjosed the uniform of the hero ' who never surrenders.'

" The ' quarters' were in keeping with the garb of the occupant ; it being a rough
log cabin about sixteen feet square, with a hole in one side for a door, and destitute of
floor and chimney. In one corner lay a pile of sacks filled with provisions for the
troops, in another a stack of guns of all sizes, from the old French musket down to
the fancy silver-mounted sporting rifle, while in a third set a camp kettle, a frying-pan,
a coffee pot minus the spout, a dozen tin cups, four pack saddles, a dirty shirt and a
moccasin. The fourth corner was occupied by a pair of blankets said to be the gen-
eral's bed ; and on a projecting puncheon lay ammunition for the stomach in the shape
of a chunk of raw beef and a wad of dough. In the center of the ' quarters' was a
space about four feet square for the accommodation of guests. Such being the luxuries
of a general's quarters you may judge how privates have fared in this war."

A pleasant incident of the stay at Camp Alden was the flag presentation. The
ladies of Yreka had decided to honor the braves of that locality who had so promptly
volunteered in defense of their neighbors across the line, and had prepared flags and
sent them through Dr. Gatliff to Camp Alden. The doctor gave them to General
Lane, and a ceremony was arranged for the afternoon of September first. The two
companies of Rhoades and Goodall, escorted by Terry's Crescent City Guards (an
independent organization which volunteered to fight Indians, but performed no service
owing to the abrupt close of the war), were marched up, and with ap^sropriate words
the General presented the banners.

On the tenth of September the leaders of opposing races met at the appointed
place on the side of Table Rock and discussed aud agreed upon terms of peace. The
occasion was a remarkable one; and brought together many remarkable individuals.
]\Iany of those who were eye-witnesses of the "peace-talk" still live, and several have
attained to honor and distinction. From the pens of two of these we have life-like
and intelligible accounts of that meeting which was in some respects the most remark-
able occurence that ever took \A-aq.q in Southern Oregon. Judge M. P. Deady wrote
concerning it :

INDIAN WARS. 223

" The scene of this famous ' peace talk ' between Joseph Lane and Indian Joseph —
two men who had so lately met in mortal combat — was worthy of the pen of Sir
Walter Scott and the j^encil of Salvator Koss. It was on a narrow bench of a long,
gently-sloping hill lying over against the noted bluff called Table Rock. The ground
was thinly coverd with majestic old pines and rugged oaks, with here and there a clump
of green oak bushes. About a half mile above the bright mountain stream that threaded
the narrow valley below sat the two chiefs in council. Lane was in fatigue dress, the
arm which was wounded at Buena Yista in a sling from a fresh bullet wound received
at Battle creek. Indian Joseph, tall, grave and self-possessed, wore a long black robe
over his ordinary dress. By his side sat Mary, his favorite child and faithful compan-
ion, then a comparatively handsome young woman, unstained with the vices of civiliza-
tion. Around these sat on the grass Captain A. J. Smith — now General Smith of St.
Louis — whohad just arrived from Port Orford with his com^jany of the First Dragoons ;
Captain Alvord, then engaged in the construction of a military road through the
Umpqua canyon and since j^ay master of the tJ. S. A.; Colonel Bill Martin of Urapqua,
Colonel John E. Ross of Jacksonville and a few others. A short distance above us on
the hillside were some hundreds of dusky warriors in fighting gear, reclining quietly
on the ground.

" The day was beautiful. To the east of us rose abruptly Table Rock and at its
base stood Smith's dragoons, waiting anxiously with hand on horse the issue of this
attempt to make peace without their aid. After a proposition was discussed and settled
between the two chiefs, the Indian would rise up and communicate the matter to a huge
warrior who reclined at the foot of a tree quite near us. Then the latter rose up and
communicated the matter to the host above him, and they belabored it back and forth
with many voices. Then the warrior communicated the thought of the multitude on
the subject back to his chief; and so the discussion went on until an understanding was
finally reached. Then we separated — the Indians going back to their mountain retreat,
and the whites to the camp."

J. W. Nesmith, who was present and quite prominent at the treaty, has left some
additional particulars of interest. He says :

" Early in the morning of the tenth of September, we rode toward the Indian
encampment. Our party consisted of the following persons: General Lane, Joel Palmer
Samuel Culver, Captain A. J. Smith, 1st Dragoons ; Captain L. F. Mosher, adjutant ;
Colonel John Ross, Captain J. W. Nesmith, Lieutenant A. V. Kautz, R. B. Metcalf,
J. D. Mason, T. T. Tierney. After riding a couple of miles we came to where it waa
too steep for horses to ascend, and dismounting, we proceeded on foot. Half a mile of
scrambling over rocks and through brush brought us into the Indians' stronghold, just
under the^ perpendicular cliflf of Table Rock where were gathered hundreds of fierce
and well armed savages. The business of the treaty began at once. Much time was
lost in translating and re-translating and it was not until late in the afternoon that our
labors were completed. About the middle of the afternoon an Indian runner arrived,
bringing intelligence of the murder of an Indian on Applegate creek. He said that a
company of whites under Captain Owens had that morning captured Jim Taylor, a.
young chief, tied him to a tree and shot him to death. This news caused the greatest
confusion among the Indians, and it seemed for a time as if they were about to attack

224 INDIAN WAES.

General Lane's party. The General addressed the Indians, telling them that Owens
who had violated the armistice was a bad man, and not one of his soldiers. He added
considerable more of a sort to ftlacate the Indians, and finally the matter of ' Jim's '
death was settled by the whites agreeing to pay damages therefor in shirts and blankets."
The treaty of peace of September 10, 1855, contained the following provisions :
Article 1 defines the boundaries of the lands occupied by the Rogue River and
related tribes. The principal geographical points mentioned as lying upon these boun-
daries are, the mouth of Applegate creek, the summit of .the Siskiyou mountains at
Pilot Rock, the Snowy Butte (Mount Pitt), and a point near the intersection of the
Oregon road near Jump-oflf-Joe creek. All Indians within these limits were to main-
tain peace with the whites, restore stolen property, and deliver up any of their number
who might infringe the articles of the treaty. The second article provides that the
tribes should permanently reside on a reservation to be set apart. According to article
three they were to surrender all fire-arms except fourteen pieces, which were reserved
for hunting. According to article 4, when the Indians received pay for their surren-
dered lands, a sum not exceeding |1 5,000 was to be set aside to pay for whatever dam-
ages they had caused. By article 5, they were to forfeit their anuuites if they again
made war. In article 6 they agree to inform the agent if hostile tribes entered the reser-
vation.

A supplemental treaty regarding the sale of the Indians' lands, was entered into
on the same day. By it they ceded to the United States government all their right to
the lands lying within these boundaries : Commencing at a point on Rogue river
below the mouth of Applegate creek, thence southerly to the divide between Applegate
and Althouse creeks ; thence along the divide to the summit of the Siskiyou moun-
tains ; thence easterly to Pilot Rock ; thence to the summit of Mount Pitt ; thence to
Rogue river ; thence westerly to Jump-oflf-Joe creek ; thence to place of beginning.

The Indians were to occupy temporarily a reservation on Evans' creek, west and
north of Table Rock, until another residence was found for them.

In consideration for the transfer of their rights, the agents agreed to pay the
Indians sixty thousand dollars ; of which fifteen thousand were to be retained as pro-
vided in the treaty of peace. The damages caused by the Indians were to be estimated
by three disinterested persons. Five thousand dollars were to be expended in pur-
chasing blankets, clothing, agricultural implements, and other desirable and necessary
articles. The remaining forty thousand dollars were to be paid in sixteen annual
payments of live stock, blankets, necessaries of life, etc. Three dwelling houses, one
for each of the principal chiefs, were to be erected, at a cost of not more than five hun-
dred dollars each. The remaining provisos relate to the non-molestation of the whites
passing through the reservation ; to the referral of grievances to the resident Indian
agent ; to the discovery of thefts, murders, etc. ; and to the ratification of the treaty by
the president, at which time it would take effect. The treaty for the cession of lands
bore the signatures of Joel Palmer, Samuel H. Culver, Joe Aps-er-ka-har, Sam To-
qua-he-ar, Jim Ana-cha-ara, John, and Limpy.

Here follow the names and organizations of those who took part in the war of
1853. No apology is needed for inserting them. They are the names of men who
"•ave their services for the defense of their fellow beings, and to many of whom

Masonic Temple, Ashland.

INDIAN WARS. 225

the thanks and gratitude of this hiter generation is due. It is a regrettable eircnra-
stanoe that the muster-rolls of all the companies which were formed cannot be obtained.
The missing ones are those of Terry's Crescent City Guards, Rhoades' Humbug Creek
Volunteers, and Goodall's Yreka Volunteers. Of the latter a 2iartial list is given from
memory by their cajitain.

Althouse Mounted Volunteers. — Mustered in August 24, 1853; discharged
September 21, 1853 — Captain, Robert L.Williams; First Lieutenant, John W. Burke;
Second Lieutenant, William Mendenhall ; Corporal, William T. Ross ; Privates,
Isaac Auger, Alfred Allen, Michael Bush, James B. Bowers, Gabriel Cooper, Joseph
Cooper, William Fountain, Paul Fairclo, James Jordan, John Makin, William A.
Moore, William McMahon, William Mitchell, Peter H. Peveler, Thomas Phillips,
Jackson Rader, Vinson S. Ricketts, Robert Shaw, Alex. St. Gilles, William Shelley,
Christopher Shelley, Harry Spurgeon, John Spurgeon, William Shin, Z. A. Triplett,
Christopher Taylor, Robert G. Worthington.

Lameeick's Company. — Mustered August 7, 1853 ; discharged September 10,
1853 — Captain, John K. Lamerick ; First Lieutenant, John W. Babcox ; Second
Lieutenants, Anthony Little, William Hunter, Henry Green ; Sergeant, S. B. Fargo ;
Corporal, John Swiuden ; Privates, Isaac Adams, G. H. Ambrose, Nicholas Belcher,
John Benjamin, R. E. Bondevant, E. H. Blanchard, David Crockett, John Creighton,
William Chase, William Crogey, Joseph Copeland, Vincent Davis, E. Downing, Wil-
liam Ewing, T. E. Estes, C. C. Gall, S. Gall, J. F. Hedrick, John W. Hillman,
George Hillman, I. A. Hull, John R. Harding, G. H. Hazlett, W. B. Howe, Robert
Hill, D. C. Ingles, James T. Jones, A. J. Kane, Henry Klippel, John Lancaster, Law-
rence LaPointe, Levi Libby, John Milligan, Roderick McLeod, Malcolm McKay, J.
W. Patrick, Alonzo Price, A. Russell, Solomon Rader, William R. Rose, J. R.
Reynolds, William M. Sevens, Peter Snelback, S. B. Sarles, S. R. Senor, William G.
T' Vault, David Thompson, Gustaf Wilson, Thomas Wilson, J. B. Wagner, Charles
Williams, T. B. Willard, H. N. Winslow.

Miller's Company. — Mustered in August 8, 1853; discharged November 2,
1853. — Captain, John F. Miller; First Lieutenant, Burrell B. Griffin; Second Lieu-
tenants, Abel George, Alfred Waterman; Sergeants, Claes Westfeldt, J. C. McFarland,
William Hiatt, James Mattony; Corporals, A. J. Mattoon, Andrew Herron, James
King, Payton W. Cook; Farrier, William Hill; Privates, Benjamin Armstrong, Jesse
Adams, Moses Adams, George Anderson, Thornton Anderson, Benjamin Antram,
Richard Barker, Richard Benson, James Bailey, Henry Brown, Mases Bellinger, D.
Bates, John Bland, David Brown, Daniel Carlysle, Daniel F. Counsel, David D. Cal-
houn, Hugh C. Clawson, William Duke, Martin Elliott, Kela Farrington, Carter L.
Fuller, Francis Garnett, Lewis D. Gibson, William M. Griffin, Thomas Gill, Thomas
Guthrie, William Gee, John B. Hice, Lewis Hiatt, Jes.se Hiatt, James Huggins,
Charles B. Houser, David Hicks, Samuel Hicks, Abraham G. Hedden, Martin Hoover,
N. Hulz, Thomas Inman, Charles Johnson, William Johnson, David C. Jamison,
Thomas B. Jackson, Lycurgus Jackson, Isham P. Jones, J. T. Jones, John Layton,
George Ludlow, Hugh Lyle, Jacob Long, Elijah Lcasure, William Lippard, William
P. Miller, Isaac Miller, John S. Miller, Green ]\ratthews, William J. Morrison, Samuel
Moore, John T. Moxlev, John :\readcr, Elijah McCall, John :\IcCombs. David .^LcRae,

226 INDIAN WAES.

Andrew McXeal, Thomas McF. Patton, Cornelius Xajip, Joshua Xohiud, John Orton,
John Osborne, Henry Patterson, Sylvester Pease, Robert Parker, R. Pearce, Alonzo
Pattee, Christian Peterson, David Redpath, Abraham Robinson, Josiah Register, E.
Ransom, Edward Smith, James F. Stewart, John Shorkman, Enoch Sjiringer, William
M. Shaffer, James Stejjhens, Oscar T. Sandford, Thomas I. Sutton, John Thurber,
Henry C. Turner, James Toabeler, Titus B. Willard, J. Wilkes, C. L. Wilcox, Alex-
ander Williamson, Charles Wright, Charles Wright (Indian), Washington Waters, J.
Willis, Elijah Williams, Samuel Williams, Samuel Wilkes.

Halstead Mounted Yolunteers. — Mustered in August 21, 1853; discharged
September 14, 1853 — Captain, Elias A. Owens; First Lieutenants, Benjamin Halstead,
Thomas Frizzell ; Second Lieutenant, Silas Crandle; Sergeant, William B. Lewis; Pri-
vates, A. Allen, Sherlock M. Abrams, Charles Bushman, X. C. Boatman, Samuel S.
Bowden, Louis Dernois, Joseph Despar, Robt. M. Denton, Jas. P. Frizzell, John FrizzelL
John Green, Silas R. Howe, William S. Hamock, Albert P. Hodges, William Johnson,
Henry Kelly, William King, James Lafferty, John Lynch, Alexander McCloy, James
Mungo, J. W. Pickett, Robert L. Smith, David Sexton, Joseph Umpqua.

Yeeka Voluxteees. — Mustered August 11 ; discharged Captain, Jas. P-

Goodall; First Lieutenant, Simeon Ely; Second Lieutenants, Philyar A. Bod well, Geo.
W. Tyler ; Sergeants, John W. Fairchild, Joseph G. Barber, James Thomas, Frank
Perry; Corporal, Mike Brown ; Privates, John Albau, Kilian Albert, Charles Abbe,
Asa Colburn, Carl Vogt, AVilliam Neff, Isham P. Keith, Alfred Douglass, John Scar-
borough, James Bradley, James Bruce, John W. Crowell, Philip Edwards, William

Terrill, McGonigle, Christopher Shack, Henry Flesher, William Lewis, Joseph

Gaunyau, Robert Neal, James Carroll, Charles A. Johnson, James T. Hurd, Albert
M. Price, John W. Cawood, Charles Lacey, D. Y. Ellington, George Charles, J. D.
Carly.

Nes.mith's Compaxy. — Enlisted in the AVillamette valley, in compliance with the
Governor's proclamation — Captain, J. W. Nesmith; First Lieutenant, L. F. Grover;
Second Lieutenant, W. K. Beale; Surgeon, J. D. McCurdy; Sergeant, J. M. Crooks;
Privates, Samuel B. Gregg, Ben. McCormack, Jas. Gay, H. S. Young, James Pritchett,
R. Woodfin, Francis A. Haynes, S. T. Burch, J. Fortune, G. H. McQueen, F. M. P.
Goff; W. E. Clark, J. W. Jones, R. C. Hague, J. A. Millard, Samuel E. Darnes, Wm.
Beale, Samuel Abbott, Jas. S. Rose, James M. Baldwin, Z. Griffin, J. Jones, Thos.
W. Beale, A. A. Eugles, James Stanley, George W. Cady, John McAllister, R. C.
Breeding, N. F. Herreu, John Ragsdale, David Kirkpatrick, Wilson Blake, Horace
Dougherty, James Daniel, J. M. Case, J. W. Toms.

Hospital Attaches. — In the military hospital at Jacksonville, in 1853, E. H.
Clea viand, as surgeon and medical director, was in charge, assisted by eleven attaches
— R. A. Caldwell, C. Davenport, Thomas Gregory, W. W. Hanway, George Hillman,
J. B. Hice, John Inman, James S. Lowery, Francis Peirce, J. B. Shepley, and B. W.
Woodruff. These men served various terms, ranging from sixteen to sixty-three days,
for which they received pay at the rate of five dollars per day and rations.

List of Killed axd Wou>'ded. — On Applegate creek, August 8, George
Anderson wounded, and on the following day B. B. Griffin, first lieutenant in the
same company (Miller's), wounded, and Francis Garnett, private, killed; on August

INDIAN WARS. 227

10, while on detached service, John E. Harding and AVilliam R. Rose, privates,
Lamerick's company, killed; on Angust 17, at Little Meadows, Sergeant Frank Perry
and Privates Asa Colburn, Alfred Douglass, Isham P. Keith, William Nefif and L.
Stockting killed or mortally wounded, and First Lieutenant Simeon Ely and Privates
Zebulon Sheets, John Alban and James Carroll severely wounded, all l)elongiug to
Goodall's company; on the twenty-fourth of August, at Battle creek. Private Thomas
Hays of Rhoades' company, and Henry Flesher and Charles Abbe of Goodall's com-
pany were wounded, the latter dying of his wounds on the second of September, and
John Scarborough, private of Goodall's company, was killed; August 28, at Long's
Ferry, First Lieutenant Thomas Frizzell and Private James Mungo (Indian), were
killed in battle; September 14, Thomas Phillips, private in Williams' company, was
killed by the Indians on Applegate creek ; on October 4 occurred the last casualty of
the war, in the wounding with arrows of Private William Duke, of Miller's company.

When General Lane and his officers made the treaty with Joe and his people,
there were many persons who in a subdued manner opjiosed it, and prognosticated its
utter failure. These people were of the sort who in the earlier days of August had
said: "Hang the Indian children; tlrey will grow up to be our enemies." They
urged a war of extermination ; humanity's dictates were too refined to be applied to
cases wherein Indians were concerned. This class, while they affected to deplore the
horrible massacres of whites, still did their utmost to rouse the Indians to other deeds
of like savagery, by inflicting on them unprovoked acts which really brave and merci-
ful people abhor. It is a fact that after the Lane treaty was signed, its provisions were
repeatedly broken by whites, who deliberately murdered unsuspecting and helpless
Indians. Chief Joe, whom none of his white contemporaries suspected of falsehood,
said at the Lane peace conference that he did not begin war nor seek to retaliate until
fourteen of his tribe had been shot or hung by the whites. Least these remarks should
be misunderstood, the I'eader is informed that they apply only to that irresponsible ele-
ment in the population which had but little respect for law and justice, and not to that
great body of respectable and law abiding citizens who cast their lot in Southern
Oregon, and by thirty years of industry have made it what it is to-day.

During the armistice and subsequent to the signing of the treaty, the class of ex-
terminators alluded to kept up their efforts to kill off as many Indians as they could,
regardless of any moral restriction whatever. Revenge was the motto, and these men
lived up to it. Not half of the outrages which were perpetrated on Indians were ever
heard of through newspapers; yet there are the accounts of several, and these are of a
most cold-blooded description. We will allude lightly to a few examples. Captain
Bob Williams, stationed with his comjiany on the banks of Rogue river, during the
armistice was not too brave and magnanimous to attempt to kill two children, the sons
of Chief Joe; but General Lane with the utmost haste ordered his removal from the
locality to another, where there would be less opportunity for the exercise of his pro-
pensities. We have the evidence of no less an authority than Judge Deady to prove
that a fearful outrage was perpetrated at Grave creek after the armistice was agreed
upon. He writes : "At Grave creek I stopped to feed my horse and get something
to eat. There was a house there, called the 'Bates House,' after the man who kept it.
It was a rdugh, wooden structure without a floor, and had an immense clapboard fun-

228 INDIAN WARS.

nel at one eud, which served as a chimney. There was no house or settlement within
ten or twelve miles or more of it. There I found Caj^tain J. K. Lamerick in com-
mand of a company of volunteers. It seems he had been sent there by General Lane
after the fight at Battle creek, on account of the murder of some Indians there, of
which he and others gave me the following account :

Bates and some others had induced a small party of peaceable Indians who be-
longed in that vicinity to enter into an engagement to remain at peace with the whites
during the war which was going on at some distance from them, and by way of ratifi-
cation to this treaty, invited them to partake of a feast in an unoccupied log house just
across the road from the 'Bates House;' and while they were partaking, unarmed, of
this proffered hospitality, the door was suddenly fastened upon them, and they were
deliberately shot down through the cracks between the logs by their treacherous hosts.
Near by, and probably a quarter of a mile this side of the creek, I was shown a large,
round hole into which the bodies of these murdered Indians had been unceremoniously
tumbled. I did not see them, for they were covered with fresh earth."

Some miners from Sailor Diggings attacked a rancheria on Illinois river or Deer
creek, as the accounts go, and killed two of the seven male Indians present. The
others hastily seized their bows and arrows, and began a lively resistance. Two white
men were hit, which so discouraged the others that they ran away. The act of aggres-
sion was severely denounced by other people, and the term "desperado" was applied
to the perjjetrators. Agent Culver was sent for to investigate matters, but it is not
known that the guilty parties were ever brought to justice; indeed, there is a certain
presumption that they were not.

An incident bearing somewhat ujion this question is worthy of mention, though
it occurred somewhat outside of the region supposed to be covered by the Lane treaty.
On January 28, 1854, a small j^arty of armed men from the Randolph mines, in Coos
county, went to a rancheria, attacked the Indians and killed fifteen, as far as is knov.'n,
without jirovocation. Two squaws were shot dead, one with her babe in her arms.
The next day the miners j^assed a law providing that whosoever should sell or give any
gun, rifle or pistol to Indians, should for the first offense receive thirty-nine lashes, and
for the second offense should suffer death. Meeting considerable adverse criticism for
their attack uj^on the helpless and unarmed creatures at the rancheria, these men next
proceeded to hold a meeting and pass resolutions, one maintaining that the Indians at
the time were on the eve of an outbreak, and another congratulating themselves on
their bravery! The whole absurd ^proceedings are contained in a letter written by one
of the assailants to the Oregon Statesman of contemporary date, and in the report of the
Bureau of Indian Afiairs for 1854, within which may be found letters from F. M.
Smith, agent at Port Orford, and G. H. Abbott, leader of the attacking force of miners.

It does not require the thorough investigation to which the records of these events
have been subjected by the writer, to determine conclusively that while the whites as a
class were content with the treaty and obedient to its provisos, there was a considerable
minority who lost no opportunity to manifest their contempt of the instrument and
their disregard of its obligations. Kor were the Indians idle. As soon as the report
of the killings at Grave creek, at Applegate and other jDlaces, had been bruited abroad,
and the natives had become convinced that they were individually in as much danger

(I

/^. ^. (me^^^a^^z/

INDIAN WARS. 229

as before the treaty, they began reprisals. They committed atrocities that were not
exceeded in bloodthirstiness by those at whom they were aimed. A few days after the
battle of Evans' creek Thomas Frizzell and Mungo were murdered by Indians on Rogue
river, below Vannoy's. It seems that Frizzell owned a ferry in that locality, which
he was constrained to leave at the commencement of hostilities. He joined Owens'
company, of which he was chosen first lieutenant. On the day mentioned, he went
home to examine into the condition of things, being accompanied by Mungo, a private
of his company. On returning they arrived within two miles of Vannoy's, when they
were fired on by concealed Indians, and Frizzell was instantly killed. Mungo,
wounded, took refuge in a thicket and with his rifle kept the enemy at bay for hours
until a relief party came to his aid. He was carried to Vannoy's, but died on arriving
there. These men were said to have been killed in retaliation for the massacre of the
Indians at Bates' house, but this assertion, of course, does not admit of proof. The
same day (August twenty-eighth), the savages burned the house of Raymond, at Jump-
off'-Joe creek, as well as two others in the vicinity.

These disturbances were chiefly confined to Josephine county and the western part
of Jackson county ; or to speak more specifically, to the Grave creek, Applegate creek,
Illinois river and Althouse creek country.

About the twelfth of September, 1853, there occurred a catastrophe of some note
several miles below Deer creek bar. Two prospectors, Tedford and Rouse, were
attacked by Illinois Indians, peaceable until that time, and both injured very severely.
Rouse was cut in the face, and Tedford was shot in the left arm, shattering the bone.
The men were alone at the time, but were speedily found by neighboring miners and
carried to a' place of safety. Tedford's injuries were mortal ; he died within a week.
This, and some slighter injuries perpetrated the same day on other parties, were the
first hostile acts of the Illinois Indians, who until then had shown a tolerably peaceful ■
disposition. This was in the absence of nearly all the fighting portion of the white
community, who were with Captain Williams on the Rogue river. On their return a
party was made up to pursue certain Indians who had stolen some property from the
Hunter brothers, including quite a number of mules. The thieves were followed for
three days, over rough mountains, across creeks and through jungles, and at last
traced to an Indian village on Illinois river. This was attacked by the pursuers, and
several Indians were killed ; but the whites had ultimately to retire, Alex. Watts
being slightly wounded in the attack. The regular troops shortly after occupied this
village, after killing several of its inhabitants and driving the rest away. On their
return to headquarters the Indians followed them, and killed Sergeant Day, wounded
Private King, and re-took sixteen stolen animals. Lieutenants Radford and Carter
were in charge of the expedition, having been sent by Captain Smith, on the seven-
teenth of October, from Fort Lane, and the action took place on the twenty-fourth of
the same month. It has always been supposed that the malcontents spoken of were
Coast Indians, from the vicinity of Chetco. At any rate they were no triflers, as the
whites found to their cost. On the twenty-sixth the miners again assembled, to the
number of thirty-five, to make another descent upon the same cam|), when the Indians'
scouts discovered them and received them with unexpected warmth. William Hunter
was wounded by three bullets, not seriously, and the pai-ty returned to tlieir i'es;x'ctivo

230 INDIAN WARS.

homes \Yithout carrying out their projected anuibilatiou of the hostile camp. Michael
Biishey was of the number, and through his exertions a treaty of peace and amity was
entered into between the miners and the Indians of that rancheria. The Indians ob-
served the treaty faithfully enough, but the whites were not so honorable. It has been
mentioned how certain whites from Sailor Diggings attempted to " make good Indians"
of seven " bucks" at a certain rancheria, but were driven off ignominiously. These
Indians were the survivors of those who slew Sergeant Day, and foiled Bushey and
his party. They were now living in quietness op Deer creek, when attacked by the
party -from Sailor Diggings, who were said to have numbered twenty. Again Bushey,
■with Alex. Watts, jmtched up a treaty with them which existed until 1855, when cer-
tain events on the lower Klamath river, in which these Indians were implicated,
sundered those pleasant relations.

On Applegate creek, Septemlier 2, four houses were burned by Indians, and their
contents destroyed. At about the same date, or possibly a little later, a pack-train
coming from Crescent City was fired upon and the three Mexicans who drove, were
wounded, three mules were killed and all the merchandise caj)tured by Indians. This
closes the list of outrages perpetrated in that part of the country subsequent to the
treaty, and the subject now leads us to consider the state of affairs on Rogue river.

General Lane left for the north on or about October, 1853. But before taking leave
of the 2>eople of the valley, lie made a. visit to Tipsu Tyee, hoping in the interests of
peace, to induce that much feared warrior to join the Rogue River chieftains in amity
to the whites. Tipsu had not made himself felt in the recent hostilities probably for
reasons already set forth, but as if still further to signalize his independence of both
white and Indian influence, he sent word to Jacksonville that he did not recognize the
peace of September 10, and should not by any means subscribe to its terms. As for
Sam, Joe, George, Limpy and the rest, they might do as they chose ; he was upon his
own land, came upon it first, and should remain uj)on it. Tins message j^resented a
new difficulty. It seemed to the 2:)eo25le and to the Indian agents alike, that Tipsu Tyee
needed to be put down. His outbreak of insolence ought to be punished. But to pun-
ish such an Indian as the wily old Tyee was an undertaking of considerable difficulty*
and very few were ready to attempt it. The chief staid in his lair, and General Lane,
who to great fighting qualities added a heart that was capable of feeling for even the
most savage of God's creatures, paid him a visit in the interests of peace and humanity.
Accompanied by two men only, he went into the mountains, found the chief, and
entered upon an agreement with him by which the rights of the settlers were to l)e
respected and grievances to be settled satisfactorily ; and having taken leave of his host,
returned safely from a journey which most men regarded as infinitely dangerous.

The different companies (Lamerick's, Miller's, Owens', Goodall's,. Rhodes', Wil-
liams', Terry's and Fowler's) were mustered out, with the exception of Miller's, during
the early days of September, soon after the close of disturbances, and sent home. Peo-
ple were now returning to their customary occupations, generally well pleased with the
result of the war and hoping that no more "unpleasantness" might supervene, as
considerabl force of regular troops had arrived, and Colonel Wright, with four com-
panies from Benicia and Fort Reading, was daily expected. Captain Alden, convales-
cent, set out for Fort Jones, about the time that the military authorities resolved upon

INDIAN WARS. 231

founding a permanent fortified camp near Table Rock. The Indians were safely domi-
ciled near that locality, their reservation extending north and west of those prominent
and celebrated land marks. Their position was a good one and to their liking. Camas
and ip-a roots grew there in profusion; salmon in their season swarmed in the river,
game of all kinds was abundant in the neighboring mountains. Besides, it was in the
land of their nativity; and though nominally confined to the narrow limits of a com-
paratively small tract, they were not perceptibly worse off than before. Opposite their
home, the new military j)ost reared its imposing front. Appropriately named Fort
Lane, it was commodiously and even handsomely built, and in a manner Avell adapted
to the uses of such a post. A stockade enclosed quite a spacious area in which was a
parade ground, together with barracks for private soldiers, houses for officers, an armory>
hospital, and other necessary buildings, all built of logs. It continued to be the head-
(i[uarters of the military forces in this region for three years ; at the end of the last
Indian war being abandoned. A quarter of a century has seen the old fort fall into
ruins, and to-day scarcely a vestige of what was once a lively encampment remains.
The officers and men who guarded its wooden ramparts are scattered and many of them
have found a soldier's grave. Some of them died fighting for the flag that waved above
the old fort; others forsaking that flag, espoused the "Lost Cause" and were lost with it.

Very soon after the construction of the military post was I'esolved U230n, a circum-
stance occurred which ranks as one of the most important, and at the same time singu-
lar, that we have to narrate. This was the murder of James C. Kyle, on the sixth of
October, 1853, by Indians from the Table Eock reservation. This sad affair took
place within two miles of Fort Lane, at a time when the settlers were congratulating,
themselves that Indian difficulties were at an end. Kyle was a merchant of Jackson-
ville, partner of Wills whose untimely and cruel death has been recorded. A rigid
examination and investigation of the homicide proved that it was committed by indi-
viduals from the reservation, and the chiefs were called upon to surrender the criminals
in compliance with the terms of the treaty. They did so ; and two Indians, George
and Tom, were handed over to the proper authorities, as the murderers of Kyle, while
Indian Thompson, tilicum of the same tribe, who has been previously mentioned,
was surrendered as the murderer of Edwards. Like Thompson, the other two suspects
were tried before Judge McFadden of the United States circuit court, at Jacksonville,
in February, 18o4. They were found guilty, and hanged two days later.

At the close of the Evans' creek campaign, General Lane, with commendable
humanity and sagacity, remembering the helpless condition of the incoming migra-
tion of the season, dispatched a force of mounted men, being Miller's company, well
armed and provisioned, to operate against the Indians in the region where such sicken-
ing butcheries were perpetrated the year before, and where Ben Wright and Captain
Ross had done such good service in aweing the savages and teaching them lessons of
the white man's vengeance. Caj^tain Miller proceeded thence with his men and
throughout the season did excellent service in scouting, fighting those Indians who
showed signs of hostility, and in piloting trains to their destination. They left Jack-
sonville September twelfth, and returning at the close of their campaign, were dis-
charged from service on the second of November. Their total term of service was
about three months. The only casualties happening to them while on the emigrant

232 INDIAN WARS.

trail was the wouudiug of Private William Duke by Indians at Goose lake, October
fourth, and of Private Watt, at another time and place. Captain Miller's command
on this expedition consisted of 115 men.

These occurrences complete the history of Indian difficulties for the year, and
together constitute the natural termination of what is known as the "War of 1853."
There is a short note to be appended relating to the indebtedness which grew out of
the war. This was assumed by the United States; and however, the people of South-
ern Oregon might grumble — and grumble they did — at the attitude of the govern-
ment and its army toward the settlers and the Indians, there was no grumbling heard
concerning the assumption of the debt by the government, nor at the way in which
that debt was paid. The muster-rolls and accounts of all the eight comj^anies and
General Lane's staff (the General refused to accept compensation for himself), were
made out and adjusted by Captain Goodall, as inspecting and mustering officer, acting
under orders from General Lane, at the close of the war; and these papers were
forwarded to Captain Alden at Washington, and being presented to congress were
promptly acted upon at the instance of that officer and General Lane, in his capacity
as delegate to congress from Oregon Territory. Major Alvord, paymaster of the
United States army, under orders from the secretary of war, paid oflP the volunteers,
in coin, at Jacksonville and Yreka, in June and July, 1855. The commissary and
quartermaster accounts were at the same time sent in draft to Governor Curry, and by
him disbursed to the proper creditors. The total cost to the United States was about
$285,000.

CHAPTER XXVIL

EVENTS OF 1854.

A Year of Comparative Peace— Tipsu Tyee — His Career — The Cave Fight— Death of Tipsu— The Cotton-
wood War -Walker's Expedition — His Muster-roll — Fight at Warner Rock— Return to Jacksonville —
Murder of Phillips.

Eighteen hundred and fifty-four was a year of peace for most of the Rogue River
tribe, safely gathered on their reservation. The military force at Fort Lane kept in
awe such roving vagabond savages as desired or might be led to commit outrages, and
also such whites as, not having the fear of the law before their eyes, might seek to
interfere with the natives. This latter class, numerous in most frontier countries, was
doubly troublesome in Southern Oregon. There were grasping, avaricious men who
seemed to begrudge the poor savages the very air they breathed. The reservation,
some would say, is too good for them; it ought to be thrown open to settlement by
whites. This class, too, were dissatisfied with the annuity that was promised the

INDIAN WARS. 233

Iiiiliaus. Nothing in our government's Indian policy commended itself to such men,
unless it was the policy of referring the least of the Indians' faults to the stern arbit-
rament of bullets, while permitting white men to ride rough-shod over them, regard-
less of right or justice.

Tipsu Tyee, however, did not join his brother chiefs in their friendly attitude
toward the whites, but on the contrary entered systematically upon a career of stealthy
warfare which was manifested in attacks on quite a number of parties on and near the
Siskiyou mountains. He eflPectually terrorized a tract of country reaching from Ash-
land to beyond the Klamath, and during many months made unexpected descents upon
white settlements, or robbed towns, with almost entire impunity. The first notable
outrage was the affair near Ashland on August 17, 1853. The visit of General Lane
to Tipsu's headquarters would appear to have been abortive, for at various times we
find the chief active against the whites. The principal affair of the season was the
fight near Cottonwood, resulting in the death of Hiram Hulen, John Clark, John
Oldfield, and Wesley Mayden, who were killed in January, 1854, on the road between
Jacksonville and Yreka, by Shasta Indians. This affair had a curious origin. A uum-
l)er of " squaw men" were living along the Klamath and about Cottonwood in the
winter of 1853-4, and the women of two of these — Tom Ward and Bill Chance —
deserted them and returned to their kindred, who were members of Tyee Bill's band
of Shastas, dwelling in a large cave on the north bank of the Klamath, some twenty
miles above Cottonwood. The squaw men proceeded after them, but on reaching the
cave were ordered to leave. They immediately went to Cottonwood and falsely reported
that a large number of stolen horses were in the possession of these Indians, when a
company of men was raised to go and recover the animals. They went, and a fight
ensuing, the four above mentioned were killed, and the rest driven away. The indig-
nation in Cottonwood was great ; the deceased were well known citizens, and the people
were not aware how they had been dujjed by the squaw men. Notice of the difficulty
was sent to Captain Judah, commanding at Fort Jones, and he came up with a detach-
ment of troops. A company of volunteers was raised at Cottonwood, commanded by
R. C. Geiger, with James Lemmon as lieutenant. Their first act was to bury the bodies
of Hulen and his friends, who served to start the new cemetery at Cottonwood, and
were all buried in one grave. The regulars and volunteers went then to the cave, and
laid siege to it, until Captain Geiger was killed by a bullet in his brain, from incau-
tiously exjiosing himself. This happened on the twenty-sixth of January. On the
same day Captain Smith arrived from Fort Lane with a detachment of regulars, and a
mountain howitzei-, and being the senior military officer, took command of the forces.
He advanced to the vicinity of the cave and opened fire ui^on the mouth of it with
his howitzer, but ineffectually except as to endangering the volunteers who were sta-
tioned near the Indians' den. An old trapper, Robinson by name, now arrived and
told Captain Smith the origin of the difficulty. The officer suspended the bombard-
ment and went to the cave accompanied by two men only, and conversed with Tyee
P>ill, who confirmed the trapper's story. Words, it was said, had no power to describe
the officer's indignation. Exasperated at the idea of a military force belonging to the
United States being engaged in a dispute concerning the possession of squaws, he took
liis (Icparturi' with his command in great anger. The inhabitants of Cottonwood

234 INDIAN WAES.

and of all the .suiTounding country were displeased with this action, and for years the
people and press of the border refused to be placated.

Bill's band remained at the cave but made no hostile demonstration. On the
twelfth of May a Shasta named Joe, made a felonious assault on a white woman, but
was driven away by the approach of some men. He was pursued and fled to the cave.
Lieutenant J. C. Bonnyeastle, then in charge of Fort Jones, set out for the cave to com-
pel his surrender, but halting on Willow creek, was informed of the attack by Tipsu
Tyee on Gage and Clymer's pack-train on Siskiyou mountain wherein David Gage was
killed and the mules stolen. The next day Lieutenant Bonnyeastle and command set
out for the scene of the last outrage, and on arriving they found that the murder had
been committed by six Indians, of whom four had departed toward the cave. The
detachment immediately followed, and reaching that place, they found that the Indians
they were in pursuit of had arrived there, and they were none other than Tipsu Tyee,
his son, and son-in-law, and another member of their band. But justice had overtaken
the notorious old creature at last, for Bill and his party had fallen upon the four and
killed them just before the troops arrived, being incited thereto by a desire to win the
friendship of the whites, to whom they knew TijDsu to be a bitter enemy. They scalped
the dead chief and sent that ghastly trophy to the office of Judge Roseborough in Yreka
where it was seen by that gentleman, as he informed the writer. Lieutenant Bonny-
eastle and Captain Goodall also saw the scalp, and not feeling perfectly assured of its
identity, went to the cave and twice exhumed the body, finding satisfactory evidence
that it was the old Tyee and none other. Tipsu, is described by Colonel Ross and
others who knew him as a tall and powerful man, wearing a beard or goatee which was
tinged with gray. He had high cheek bones and a distinctively Indian appearance,
but was a fine looking brave. "He was a quiet, reserved man, who never went among
white people, when he could avoid it, but staid almost constantly in the hills. He never
begged, but if provisions or other gifts were offered, he would allow his squaws to
receive them."

The end of the Cottonwood affair is not yet told. The Shastas in the cave were
visited by several individuals, among them Lieutenant Bonnyeastle, Judge Steele,
Judge Roseborough, special Indian agent ; old Tolo chief of the Yreka Shastas and a
friend of the whites ; Captain Goodall and others, and persuaded to set out for Fort
Jones, where they were to be kept. On arriving at Cottonwood creek on June 24, they
were fired, upon by a gang of the miners of that vicinity, and Chief Bill was killed,
and several others wounded. The whites lost one man, Thomas C. McKamey. The
Indians finally got securely on the Fort Jones reservation. This is the extent of our
chronicles concerning the Cave Shastas, and they drift now out of our story.

The remaining incidents of 1854, are connected with the expedition of Captain
Jesse Walker to assist the immigrants of that year through the dangerous grounds
infested by the Modocs and other hostile tribes who had been punished by the previous
expeditions of Captain Ross, Ben Wright and Captain Miller. Under date of July 17,
1854, Governor Davis addressed Colonel John Ross, authorizing him by virtue of his
office as colonel in the Oregon militia, to call into service a company of volunteers to
protect the immigration and particularly to suj^press the Modocs, Piutes, and other .
disaffected aborigines. Colonel Ross accordingly made proclamation on the third of

INDIAN WARS. 235

August following, inviting enlistments for the term of three months. Some sixty or
seventy men responded, whose names, with the officers they elected, are annexed :
Captain, Jesse Walker; Lieutenants, C. Westfeldt, Isaac Miller; Sergeants, William
G.Hill, R. E. Miller, Andrew J. Long; Privates, Benj. Antum, John Bormonler,
David Breen, William By bee, T. C Banning, O. C Beeson, Newton Ball, J. H. Clifton,
R. S. A. Caldwell, Hugh C. Clauson, J. J. Coffer, W.W. Cose, David Dorsey, Henry C.
Eldridge, W. M.D. Foster, T.V. Henderson, Jesse Huggens, J. B.Henit, J. M. Holloway,
J.H. Hoffman, James Hathaway, John Head, John Halleck, John Hawkins, David W.
Houston, Samuel Hink, William H. Jaquette, Eli Judd, J. P. Jones, L. W. Jones, John
F. Linden,, Peter Mowry, John Martin, Greenville Matthews, John M. Malone, B.
McDaniel, James McLinden, John Pritchett, J. B. Patterson, Warren Pratt, Sylvester
Pase, J. A. Pinney, George Bitchy, W. M. Rise, R. M. Robertson, E. A. Rice, Thomas
Swank, Seth Sackett, J. R. Smith, N. D. Schooler, John Smith, John Shookman,
Silas R. Smith, Marion Snow, Vincent Tullis, John Tliom2ison, David Thompson,
Peter H. Vanslyke, Samuel Wilks, Lafayette Witt, Squire Williams, Elijah Walker,
George W. Wilson, M. Wolverton, James Wilks, Thomas P. Walker, James W.
Walker, H. Wright.

Colonel Ross' instructions to the officers before their departure, were to proceed
immediately to some suitable point near Clear lake, in the vicinity of Bloody Point,
and protect the trains. These instructions concluded: "Your treatment of the
Indians must in a great measure be left to your own discretion. If possible, cultivate
their friendship ; but, if necessary for the safety of the lives and property of the immi-
gi'ation, whip and drive them from the road." Simultaneously with their starting, a
small party of Yreka people also set out with the same object. These were only
fifteen in number, but included, also, some very experienced Indian fighters. While
traveling along the north shore of Tule lake, they were greeted by a shower of arrows
from the tules. They retired to await the Oregon company. When Captain Walker
arrived, he sent forty men of his company with five Californians to attack the Indian
village, which was situated in the marsh three hundred yards from where the attack
had been made. This was destroyed without resistance, and all the men returned to
camp at the mouth of the Lost river. The permanent rendezvous was made at Clear
lake; and here both companies established their headquarters. Lieutenant Westfeldt,
with a mixed detachment of Oregonians and Californians, went eastward on the trail
as far as the big bend of the Humboldt, to meet the coming immigrants. Trains were
made up of the scattered wagons, and being furnished with small escorts, were sent on
westward. The Californians soon returning home. Captain Walker set out to jamish
the Piutes, who had stolen stock from the immigrants. On October third he started with
sixteen men, traveling northward from Goose lake, when meeting a band of Indians,
he chased them forty miles, coming the second day ujion them where they were forti-
fied on the top of an immense rock, named by him Warner's rock, in remembrance of
Captain Warner, killed there in I84U. The small party made a furious attack upon
the stronghold, but was repulsed with one man, John Low, wounded. Returning to
Goose lake, they met and killed two Indians. Setting out again with twenty-five men,
the determined captain again headed for Warner's rock, and by traveling in the night,
reached it without being suspected by the savages, who, it was found, had gone down

236 INDIAN WARS.

from the rock, and were living ou tlie bank of a creek. The men rode up to the camp,
and formed a semi-circle about it. At daydreak they began firing, and drove the
Indians pell-mell into the brush, killing many. The only white man injured was
Sergeant William Hill, who was severely wounded in the arm and cheek by a bullet
from the gun of one of his companions. Returning now to Goose lake and then home-
ward, they were mustered out of service at Jacksonville on November 6, 1854.

Before closing this account of the events of 1854, there is mention to be made of

two murders committed by Indians, the one of Stewart, an immigrant, while

proceeding westward on the wagon trail, in September; the other that of Edward
Phillips. The latter homicide occurred on the Applegate, about the middle of April.
It was supposed to have been the deed of certain Indians residing thereabouts, but
which was laid to the charge of the tribe on Rogue river. Captain Smith detailed a
detachment to inquire into the matter, whose commanding officer reported that the
man had been killed in his own cabin, and evidently for the purpose of robbery, as his
gun, ammunition and tools had been taken.

As we have seen, the greater part of the difficulties which occurred during the
year 1854, were outside of the Rogue river valley, but they were still near enough to
keep a portion of its inhabitants in a state of alarm.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

CAUSES OF THE WAR OF 1855-6.

Character of the Events of 1855— Public Opinion— Situation of the Indians— The Speculative Class— Murder of
Hill— Of Philpot— Of Dyer and McCue— The Humbug War— Invasion of Jackson County— Resolutions—
The Invaders Retire— Death of Keene— Murder of Fields and Cunningham— Reflections— The Lupton
Affair.

The latter portion of the history of Southern Oregon's Indian wars
peculiar distinction. It describes exclusively the strong^- struggles of a single tribe
against extermination ; it tells their slow and gradual yielding, and finally the last act
of their existence which bears interest to us ; namely, their exile from the land of
their birth. The subject which we took up lightly at the year 1827 has assumed a
weightier character. Year by year the irrepressible conflict of races has taken on
more alarming symptoms. The unavoidable termination as it approached, bore to the
people a more serious import. We can imagine the situation as after a lapse of nearly
three decades we philosophize upon the subject. The Indians toward the end of 1855
are growing restless, even desperate. The have long felt and now recognize the tight-
ening bands of an adverse civilization strangling them. The white men who came

3

2 "o

15

CO a I—

CD

INDIAN WARS. 237

with fail- ^tromises, wlio bvouglit trifling presents, iind who broke their words as twigs
are broken, outnumbered them by far. In the miuds of the whites distrust increases.
There has also crept in a new element and an influential one. Speculative gentlemen
nuised upon the profits of an Indian war, and took note how surely government reim-
bursed the contractors, the packers, the soldiers, of previous wars. Being without
other means of accumulating wealth, why should they not keep an eye open to the
chance of a war against the Indians. "A good crop pays well, but a good lively cam-
paign is vastly more lucrative." These few schemers were ready to take advantage oL
a war, and doubly ready with their little bills ; bills that the government found so
exhorbitant that it took alarm — imagined a grand conspiracy to bring on a war and by
such means to defraud the treasury ; and, finally, would pay no bills, not even those
of honest volunteers who had periled life and limb in the country's need. Years after,
there came J. Ross Browne, as treasury agent, who looked into the matter and found
therein nothing but the traces of shrewd contractors and unscrupulous purveyors, and
he bore evidence to the honesty and uprightness of the people, and to the legitimacy
of the war. But this is a digression from our topic. The events of I800 are easily
suscejatible of arrangement in historical form. Those which precede the beginning of
hostilities (which took place October eighth), we are enabled to arrange in three series
with reference to their locality, date of occurrence, and cause.

We are informed that on May 8, 1855, Hill was attacked and killed on

Indian creek, in Siskiyou county, California. Primarily this information is obtained
from the official list of white persons killed by Indians, referred to as the work of a
legislative committee. The next entry is to the effect that " Jerome Dyar and Daniel
McKew" were killed on the first of June, on the road from Jacksonville to the Illinois
valley, and that, as in the former case, the killing was done by Rogue River Indians.
On June second, says the report, Philpot was killed by the same Indians, in Deer
creek valley. These constitute a chain of events to which particular attention should
be paid in order to ascertain the comparative trustworthiness of the publication quoted
from.

From a careful comparison of accounts, oral as well as printed, it appears that a
party of Illinois Indians, belonging possibly to Limpy's band, but more likely being
the remnant of those active and formidable savages who so boldly resisted the attacks
l)((th of the regulars and the miners, as described in foregoing pages, went over to the
Klamath river about Happy Camp, and robbed some miners' cabins, and then proceed-
ing to Indian creek, killed a man named Hill — sometimes sjielled Hull — and precip-
itately returning, stole some cattle from Hay's ranch (afterwards Thornton's), and took
their booty to the hills at the head of Slate creek. On the day following, Samuel Frve
set out from Hay's ranch with a force of eight men, and following the Indians into the
hills, came upon them and killed or mortally wounded three of them, as the whites
reported. The latter i-etired and probably were follow^ed, as on the next day, while
returning with re-inforcements, it was found that the Indians had gone to Deer creek
and murdered Philpot and seriously wounded James Mills. The neighboring settlers
and others moved immediately to Yarnall's stockade for safety, while Frye, with his
military comj)any, now increased to twenty men, were active in protecting them, and
seeking tlic Indians. News was sent to Fort Lane, and Lieutenant Switzer with a force

238 INDIAN AVARS.

of twelve men came down and entered npon the search, only to find that the Indians
had murdered Jerome Dyer and Daniel McCiie, on the Applegate, where they had
gone on their supposed way to the Klamath lakes. A day or so later the Indians,
finding their way blocked for escape to the eastward, surrendered to the troof)s and
were taken to the Fort for safe keeping, as there were no regularly constituted author-
ities to receive them, and if once allowed to go out of the power of the soldiers would
infallibly have been killed by the citizens, as indeed they well deserved. The Indians,
. fourteen in number were brought up to the reserve, but Chief Sam put in forcible
objections against their being allowed to come among his people, saying that some
whites Avere endeavoring to raise disturbances among the latter, and their own good
name would suffer, etc. To this Captain Smith and Agent Ambrose assented, and pro-
vided a place for the Indians at Fort Lane, where they were kept under guard, as
much to prevent whites from killing them as to discourage them from running away.
The next sequence of events that deserves notice, constitutes the " Humbug War,"
well known by that name in Northern California. The whole matter, which at one
time threatened to assume serious proportions, grew out of a plain case of drunk. Two
Indians — whether Shastas, Klamaths, or Rogue Rivers there is no evidence to show,
but presumably from the locality of the former tribe — procured liquor and became
intoxicated, and while passing along Humbug creek in California, were met by one
Peterson, who foolishly meddled with them. Becoming enraged, one of the Indians
shot him, inflicting a mortal wound; as he fell he drew his own revolver and shot his
opponent in the abdomen. The Indians started for the Klamath river at full speed,
while the alarm was given. Two companies of men were instantly formed and sent out
to arrest the perpetrators. The information that an Indian had shot a white man was
enough to arouse the whole community, and no punishment would have been deemed
severe enough for the culprit if he had been taken. The citizens found on the next
day a party of Indians who refused to answer their questions as they wished, so they
arrested three of them and set out for Humbug with them. While on the road, two of
the three escaped, the other one was taken to Humbug, examined before a justice of the
peace and for want of evidence discharged. When the two escaped prisoners returned
to their camp, it was the signal for a massacre of whites. That night (July 28) the
Indians of that band passed down the Klamath, killing all but three of the men work-
ing between Little Humbug and Horse creeks. Eleven met their death at that time,
being William Hennessy, Edward Parish, Austin W. Gay, Peter Hignight, John Pol-
lock, four Frenchmen and two Mexicans. Excitement knew no bounds ; every man
constituted himself an exterminator of Indians, and a great many of that unfortunate
race were killed, without the least reference to their possible guilt or innocence- Many
miserable captives were deliberately shot, hanged or knocked into abandoned prospect
holes to die. Over twenty-five natives, mostly those who had always been friendly, were
thus disposed of. Even infancy and old age were not safe from these " avengers," who
were composed chiefly of the rowdy or " sporting " class.

Meantime some had said that the Indians who had committed the massacre had
gone north. On the dissemination of this report, preparations for a pursuit were
rapidly made, and about the first of August five companies of volunteers started for
the north side of the Klamath. These were commanded by Captains Hale, Lynch,

INDIAN WARS. 239

Martin, Kelly and Ream — the latter's men being monnted, while the others were on
foot. The total force amounted to about two hundred. The Indians were found to
have fled beyond the Klamath, and the volunteers, findino- their trail, followed it
closely. The jiursued were carrying the man whom Peterson wounded, and had gone
over the summit of the Siskiyou range, and down into the valley of the Applegate, and
made for the reservation at Fort Lane. When the five companies reached Sterling-
creek, they camped, finding the Indians had escaped them and gone to the reservation.
Here they held a meeting, and like all Americans in seasons of public anxiety, jjassed
resolutions. Those Avere of the following tenor :

Sterling, Oregon, August r>, 18.55.

At a meeting of the volunteer companies of Siskiyou county, State of California, who have
been organized for the jouriDOse of ajjprehending and punishing certain Indians who have committed
depredations in our county, E. S. Mowrj', Esq., was elected chairman, Dr. D. Ream, secretary,
and the following resolutions were unanimously adopted :

Whereas, Certain Indians, composed of the Klamath, Horse Creek, and a portion of the Rogue
River tribe, on or about the twenty-seventh or twenty-eighth of Juh', 18.35, came ujion the Klamath
river, and there ruthlessly and without provocation, murdered eleven or more of our fellow-citizens
and friends, a portion of whom we know to have escaped into the reservation near Fort Lane,
Rogue river valley, Oregon territory, from the fact of having tracked them into said valley and
from testimony of certain responsible and reliable witnesses ; it is, therefore,

Resolved, That a committee of five men, one from each company now present, be chosen to-
present these resolutions to Captain Smith, U. S. A., commandant at Fort Lane, and Mr. Palmer ,^
the Indian agent for Oregon territory. We would respectfully request Captain Smith, U. S. A.,
and Mr. Palmer, Indian agent, that they would, if in their power, deliver up to us the fugitive
Indians who have Hed to the reservation, in three days from this date, and if at the end of this
time they are not delivered to us, together with all the stock and proi^erty, we would most respect-
fully beg of Cajitain Smith, U. S. A., and the Indian agent full permission to apprehend the fugi-
tive Indians, and take the property wherever it may be found.

Resolved, That if at the expiration of three days the Indians and property are not delivered to-
ns, and the permission to seek for them is not granted, then we will, on our own responsibility, go
and take them where they may be found, at all and every hazard.

Resolved, That the following-named gentlemen compose the committee :

E S. MOWRY,

J. X. Hale,
A D. Lake,
William Parrish,
E. S. MowRY, Chairman. A. Hawkins,

Dr. D. Re.\m, Secretary. Committee.

The committee went to Fort Lane and found that some of the stock stolen by tlie
Lidians was there, and that two Rogue River Indians who had been concerned in the
massacre were then in the guard house. The committee waited u^ion Captain Smith,
jiresented their credentials, and demanded the surrender of the stock and criminals.
The Captain said that the animals would be delivered up on proof of ownership, but
tluit the Indians could on no account be surrendered, except to the properly constituted
authorities. Lieutenant Mowry then told him plainly that they came after the Indians
and proposed to have them, if it was necessary to take them by force. This was too
much for hot-tempered Captain Smith to endure. Threats from a citizen to a regular
army officer were unheard-of in his experience. He stormed furiously, declined to
submit to dictation, and invited the bold Californians to put their threats in execution.
Tluy left, di'cliiring tli;it if the Indians were not fdrthcomiui;- in three davs thcv would

240 INDIAN WARS.

take the fort by .storm. The camp was then removed to a poiut within three or t'uur
miles of the fort, and the volunteers began to mature plans for its capture. Captain
Smith made arrangements to repel attacks, placing his artillery (two or three small
cannon) in position, loaded and trained upon the approaches, and suspended the visits
of troops to the surrounding cam^JS. The invaders evolved a plan for making the
soldiers drunk, whereby they might enter the fort, but this fell through on account of
communications being sundered ; and within a day or two they left for their homes,
feeling that a war against the government might terminate injuriously to them.

After the war of 1855-6 closed, the Indian criminals in question, two in number,
Avere surrendered to the sheriff of Siskiyou, upon a warrant charging them with mur-
der. They were taken to Yreka, and kept in jail until the grand jury met, and no
indictment being found, they were released. But it ha23peued that a number of men
in that town had determined that the savages should die. As they walked forth from
thejail these men locked arms with them, led them out of town, shot them and tum-
bled their bodies into an old mining shaft where their bones yet lie.

Years later appropriations Avere made by congress for the pay of the men belong-
ing to the five companies, and about 1870 a number of them actually received compen-
sation for their services in this expedition.

On the second of September an affray occurred in the upjier part of Bear creek
valley, Jackson county, which resulted in the death of a white man and the wounding
of two others. A few days previously, some Indians, by some supposed to belong to the
gang which committed the eleven murders on the Klamath, stole some horses from B.
Alberding. The owner summoned his neighbors to assist in recovering them, and a
very small company set out on the quest. Following the trail, they walked into an
ambuscade of savages, and were fired upoii. Granville Keene was killed, Alberding
was wounded by a ball that struck him above the eye, J. Q. Faber was shot through
the arm, and another man received a wound in the hand. The party hastily retired,
leaving the body of Keene where it fell. On the following day a detachment of troops
from Fort Lane proceeded to the scene of conflict and obtained the much mutilated
remains, but the Indians, of course, were gone. The savages who were concerned in
this diabolism were said by different accounts to number from five to thirty.

The next event of the sort is a still more serious one, which occurred on the
twenty-fifth of September, and involved the death of two persons. On the previous
dav Harrison B. Oatman and Daniel P. Brittain, of Phoenix, and Calvin M. Fields,
started from Phoenix, each driving an ox-team loaded with flour destined for Yreka.
Camping the first night near the foot of the Siskiyou mountains, the train started up
the ascent the next morning, doubling their teams frequently as was made necessary
by the steepness of the road. ■ When within three hundred yards of the summit, Oat-
man and Fields advancing with two teams and one wagon, while Brittain remained
with two wagons and one team, the latter heard five shots fired in the vicinity of the
men in advance. Hurrying up the rise he quickly came in sight of the teams, which
Avere standing still, while an Indian was apjjarently engaged in stripping a f;illen man.
Turning back, Brittain ran down the mountain, followed by a bullet from the Indian's
] ifle, but made his way unhurt to the INIountain House, three mile.s from the scene of
the attack. Six men hastilv mounted and returned to the .summit. Oatman, mean-

INDIAN WARS. 241

while had esfajied, aiul got to Hughes' house (now Byron Cole's) ou the California
side, and obtained help. He reported that at the time the attack began, a youth
named Cunningham, who was returning from Yreka with a team, was jsassing Oatmaa
and Fields when the attack was made, and that he was wounded at the instant Fields
fell dead. The latter's body was lying in the road, stripped, but Cunningham was
only found the next day, lying dead by a tree behind which he had taken refuge. The
exact spot where the catastrophe occurred — says Mr. Brittain, who still resides at
Phaniix — is where the railroad tunnel enters from the Oregon side. It is the gentle-
man's ojjinion that about fifteen Indians were concerned in the attack. The date
mentioned, September twenty-fifth, is taken from Mr. Robinson's diary, although Mr.
Brittain is of the opinion that it took place three days later. Newspaper accounts
give the twenty-fourth as the proper date. On the following day Samuel ^\ arner was
murdered ou Cottonwood creek, not far from the scene of the other tragedy, and most
likely by the same Indians. At nearly the same time, two men, Charles Scott and
Thomas Snow, were killed on the trail between Yreka and Scott Bar. These repeated
killings (whose details are not now known) produced a very considerable degree of
alarm, but no military measures of importance were taken, except by the officials at
Fort Lane, who sent forty mounted troops to the various scenes of bloodshed, but these
returned without having effected anything.

Our account now approaches the beginning of the war of 1855-6, by some thought
to have been the result of the incidents above recounted. It is truly difficult at this
time to accord these circumstances their proper influence in the acts which followed.
It is evident that the people of Rogue river valley toward the end of the summer of
1855, must have felt an additional degTce of insecurity, but that it was wholly in con-
sequence of the murders which had previously taken place does not seem probable,
inasmuch as these murders were committed outside the valley. Their legitimate results
could hardly have been sufficient to stir up a general war against the Indians, so we
are left to conjecture the growth of a public sentiment determined upon war. The
vast majority of settlers, wearied of constant anxiety, heartily and unaffectedly believed
that the removal of the Indians was desirable and necessary. Whatever may have
been the exact status of the war party, and whatever the influence of the speculative
branch of it, it is clear there was no outspoken opposition such as would have been
created by a general sentiment in favor of peaceful methods. Almost the only out-
spoken advocate of Indians' rights was compelled to leave the country of his adoption
from fear of personal violence. Whoever doubts the acerbity of public sentiment at
that date, will do well to pause here and digest that statement, comparing with it the
tenor of the editorial remarks to be found in the Sentinel at that time. If that paper
were a truthful exponent of public opinion, and we believe it was, there must have
existed a condition of feeling analogous to that in the southern states in the months
preceding the rebellion. If such publications may be trusted to gauge public senti-
ment, the feeling of absolute enmity against the natives must have increased ten-fold
since the signing of the Lane treaty. And as there wa.s nothing in the conduct of the
Indians to fully warrant this, we shall not, probably, be for out of the way in assign-
ing much of it to the influence of those who, for various reasons, desired war. Un-
doul)tedIy tliis view will foil to i)lease those whose belief as to the cause of the war of

242 INDIAN WAES.

185.5-6 is fouuJed ui^ou current traditions; but such should remember that those tradi-
tions date their commencement from a time when it was extremely unjjopular, even dan-
gerous, to oppose the war, and as unpopular to print or sjjeak anything of an opposing
character. It has thus far been regarded as indisputable fact that Indian outrages
brought on the war, and were the sole cause of it. Keeping in view the principle with
which we set out, that the war was unavoidable from the very nature of things, it seems
a fair and impartial conclusion that it could have been, by the use of tact and justice,
postponed at least for a time. Instances might be multiplied to show the drift of
public sentiment at the time of which we speak; pages might be written and endless
quotations made; but it would seem that the foregoing paragraphs set forth the state
of affairs with sufficient clearness. The existence of a war party was assured; and with
the uuexiJiected stimulus of the terrible massacre of October ninth, this war i^arty
proved powerful enough to effect the deportation of the Indians — a fact not to be
regretted. Previous to that date no excuses were deemed necessary for even the most
violent measures; but when criticism subsequently awoke, editorials were written,
affidavits prepared, and another war (of words) was fought to prove the first one neces-
sary. For as matters then existed outside sympathy had to be created — the conscien-
ces of some people had to be calmed — some men had to be made heroes of — appropri-
ations had to be got — and congress had to be won over.

It is undoubtedly true that those writers and speakers who have attempted to
apologize for or extenuate certain acts having a bearing on the question have most
blunderingly performed their task. To effect this end required a high degree of tact
and skill, both of which it would appear were wanting at that date. For example :
Although we have evidence to show that the Lupton incident was the work partly of
hair-brained enthusiasts and ^^rofessed ruffians who in no sense rejwesented the com-
munity, still their act was adopted and defended by those who took it upon themselves
to advocate the what they styled the cause of the people of Southern Oregon. The act
should have been promptly repudiated as of too brutal a nature to represent the wishes
of an enlightened and humane public. In other respects these apologists far overstepped
the bounds of tact and prudence. Officials of the United States government were
antagonized, thereby endangering governmental support. Column after column of the
Sentinel, the only paper then published south of Salem, was filled with abuse of Gene-
ral Wool, Joel Palmer and other officials, and violent recriminations concerning the
conduct of the war generally. The result of this was that the government become sus-
picious and sent an agent to investigate, as has been before remarked.

It has always been regarded as a remarkable circumstance that the Indians ou
and near the reservation should have been (with the exception of Sam's band) fully
prepared for an outbreak exactly at the time when the " exterminators " made their
attack at the mouth of Little Butte creek, thereby furnishing an all sufficient reason
for such outbreak. A still more suggestive fact is the simultaneous beginning of war
in Oregon and Washington territory — a fact so striking as to suggest the collusion of
those widely separated tribes. How this concert of action was brought about, several
have attempted to explain, but never in a satisfactory manner. Leaving this subject
we will proceed to consider the Lupton affair.

INDIAN WARS. 243

Oil the seventh of October, 1855, a jmrty of men, priucii)ally miners and men-
a bout-town, in Jacksonville, organized and armed themselves to the number of about
forty (accounts disagree as to number), and under the nominal leadership of Captain
Hays and Major James A. Luptou, representative-elect to the territorial legislature^
proceeded to attack a small band of Indians encamped on the north side of Kogue river
near the moutli of Little Butte creek a few miles above Table Rock. Lupton, it appears,
was a man of no experience in bush fighting, but was rash and headstrong. His mili-
tary title, says Colonel Ross, was unearned in war and was probably gratuitous. It is
the prevailing opinion that be was led into the affair through a wish to court popu-
larity, which is almost the only incentive that could have occurred to him. Certainly
it could not have been plunder; and the mere love of fighting which jH'obably drew the
greater part of the force together was j^erhaps absent in his case. The reason why the
particular band at Butte creek was selected as victims also appears a mystery, although
the circumstances of their location being accessible, their numbers small, and their
reputation as fighters very slight, possibly were the ruling considerations. This band
of Indians apjDear to have behaved themselves tolerably ; they were pretty fair Indians,
but beggars, and on occasion thieves. They had been concerned in no considerable
outrages that are distinctly specified. The attacking party arrived at the river on the
evening of the seventh, and selecting a hiding place, remained therein until daylight,
the appointed time for the attack. The essential particulai's of the fight which followed
are, when separated from a tangle of contradictory minutiae, that Lupton and his party
fired a volley into the crowded encampment, following up the sudden and totally unex-
pected attack by a close encounter with knives, revolver's, and whatever weajion they
were possessed of, and the Indians were driven away or killed without making much
resistance. These facts are matters of evidence, as are also the killing of several squaws,
one or more old decrej)it men, and a number, probably small, of children. The un-
essential particulars vary greatly. For instance. Captain Smith reported to govern-
ment that eighty Indians were slaughtered. Other observers, perhaps less prejudiced,
placed the number at thirty. Certain accounts, notably that contributed to the States-
man by A. J. Kane, denied that there were any " bucks " present at the fight, the
whole number of Indians being women, old men, and children. It is worth while to
note that Mr. A. J. Kane promptly retracted this supposed injurious statement, and in
a card to the Sentinel said he believed there ivere some bucks present. Certain "Indian
fighters," also appended their names to the card.

The exact con.dition of things at the fight, or massacre, as some have characterized
it, is difficult to determine. Accounts vary so widely that by some it has been termed a
heroic attack, worthy of Leonidasor Alexander; others have called it an indiscriminate
butchery of defenceless and peaceful natives, the earliest possessors of the soil. To
temporize with such occurrences does not become those who seek the truth only, and
the world would be better could such deeds meet at once the proper penalty and be
known by their proper name. Whether or not Indian men were present does not con-
cern the degree of criminality attached to it. The attack was indiscriminately against
all. The Indians were at peace with the whites and therefore unprepared. To fitly
characterize the whole proceeding, is to say that it was Indian-like.

244 INDIAN WARS.

The results of the matter, were the deatli of Luptoii, who was mortally wounded
by an arrow which penetrated his lungs, the wounding of a young man, Shepherd by
name, the killing of at least a score of Indians, mainly old men, and the revengeful
outbreak on the part of the Indians, whose account forms the most important part of
this history.

CHAPTER XXIX.

THE MASSACRE OF OCTOBER NINTH, AND WAR IN GRAVE CREEK HILLS.

A Memorable Day— The Indians Leave the Reservation— The Murder of Twenty People Women in Cap-
tivity-Mrs. Harris Defends her Family -Volunteers to the Rescue— General State of Alarm— An Army
Organized — An Example of Promptness Siege of Galice Creek — Discovery of the Indians' Where-
abouts-Lieutenant Kautz Surprised— Expedition to Hungry Hill— Battle at Bloody Spring— A Defeat-
Causes- The Volunteers and Regulars Disagree— A Parallel— Proclamation of Governor Curry— Army
Reorganized — The Indians Retreat to the Meadows.

Immediately succeeding the event last detailed, came a series of startling and
lamentable occurrences, which j^roduced an impression on the community which
the la|3se of over a quarter of a century has by no means effaced. The ninth of
October, 1855, has justly been called the most eventful day in the history of Southern
Oregon. On that day nearly twenty persons lost their lives, victims to Indian ferocity
and cruelty. Their murder lends a somber interest to the otherwise dry details of
Indian skirmishes, and furnishes many a romantic though saddening page to the
annalist who would write the minute history of those times. A portion of the incidents
of that awful day have been written for publications of wide circulation, and thus have
become a part of the country's stock-in-trade of Indian tales. Certain of them have
taken their place in the history of our country along with the most stirring and romantic
episodes of border warfare. Many and varied are this country's legends of hair-
breadth escapes and heroic defense against overpowering odds. There is nothing told
in any language to surjiass in daring and devotion the memorable defense of the Har-
ris home. Mrs. Wagner's mysterious fate still bears a melancholy interest, and while
time endures the people of this region cannot forget the mournfully tragic end of all
who died on that fateful day.

As the present memories describe it, the attack was by most people wholly unex-
jjected, in sj)ite of the jirevious months of anxiety. The recklessness of the whites
who precipitated the outbreak by their conduct at the Indian village above Table Kock^
had left unwarned the outlying settlers, upon whose defenseless and innocent heads
fell the storm of barbaric vengeance. Early on the morning of October ninth, the

'

^4"S^t

INDIAN WARS. 245

hands of several of the more warlike chiefs gathered at or near Table Rock, set out
traveling westward, down the river, and transporting their families, their arms and
other property, and bent on war. It is not at this moment possible to ascertain the
names of those chiefs, nor the number of their braves ; but it has been thought that
Limpy, the chief of the Illinois band, with George, chief of the lower Rogue river
band, were the most prominent and influential Indians concerned in the matter. Their
numbers, if we follow the most reliable accounts, would indicate that from thirty-five
to fifty Indians performed the murders of which we have now to discourse. Their first
act was to murder William Goin or Going, a teamster, native of Missouri, and em-
ployed on the reservation, where he inhabited a small hut or house. Standing by the
fire-jilace in conversation with Clinton Schieffelin, he was fatally shot, at two o'clock in
the morning. The particular individuals who accomplished this killing were, says
Mr. !~(chieft'elin, members of John's band of Applegates, who were encamped on Ward
creek, a mile above its mouth, and twelve miles distant from the camp of Sam's band.
Hurrying through the darkness to Jewett's ferry these hostiles, now reinforced by
the baud of Limpy and George, found there a j^ack-train loaded with mill-irons.
Hamilton, the man in charge of it, was killed, and another individual was severely
wounded, being hit in four i)laces. They next began firing at Jewett's house, within
which were several persons in bed, it not being yet daylight. Meeting with resistance
they gave up the attack and moved to Evans' ferry, which they reached at daybreak.
Here they shot Isaac Shelton, of Willamette valley, en route for Yreka. He lived
twenty hours. The next victim was Jones, jiroprietor of a ranch, whom they shot
dead near his house. His body w'as nearly devoured by hogs before it was found.
The house was set on fire, and Mrs. Jones was pursued by an Indian and shot with a
I'evolver, when she fell senseless, and the savage retired supposing her dead. She
revived and was taken to Tufts' place and lived a day. O. P. Robbins, Jones' part-
ner, was hunting cattle at some distance from the house. Getting upon a stum^i he
looked about him and saw the house on fire. Correctly judging that Indians were
abroad, he proceeded to Tufts and Evans' places and secured the help of three men,
but the former place the Indians had already vi.sited and shot Mrs. Tufts through the"
body, but being taken to Illinois valley she recovered. Six miles north of Evans
ferry the Indians fell in with and killed two men who were transporting supplies from
the Willamette valley to the mines. They took the two horses from the wagon, and
went on. The house of J. B. Wagner was burned, Mrs. Wagner being 2>i'Pviously
murdered, or, as an unsubstantiated story goes, she was compelled to remain in it until
dead. This is refinement of horrors indeed. For a time her fate was unknown, but
it was finally settled thus. Mary, her little daughter, was taken to the Meadows, on
lower Rogue river, some weeks after, according to the Indians' own accounts, but died
there. Mr. Wagner being from home escaped death. Coming to Haines' house, ]\Ir.
Haines being ill in bed, they shot him to death, killed two children and took his
wife prisoner. Her fate was a sad one, and is yet wrapi)ed in mystery. It seems
likely, from the stories told by the Indians, that the unlia2)py woman died al)out ;i
week afterwards, from the effects of a fever aggravated by improper food. When the
subsecpient war raged, a thousand in(piiries were made concerning the captive, and

246 INDIAN AVAKS.

not a stone was left unturned to solve the mystery. The evidence that exists bearing
upon the subject is unsatisfactory indeed, but may be deemed sufficiently conclusive.

At about nine o'clock a. m., the savages approached the house of Mr. Harris, about
ten miles north of Evans', where dwelt a family of four — Mr. and Mrs. Harris and
their two children, Mary aged twelve, and David aged ten years. With them resided
T. A. Eeed, an unmarried man employed by or with Mr. Harris in farmwork. Reed
was some distance from the house, and was set upon by a party of the band of hostiles
and killed, no assistance being near. His skeleton was found a year after. David,
the little son of the fated family, had gone to a field at a little distance, and in all
likelihood was taken into the woods by his captors and slain, as he was never after
heard of. Some have thought that he was taken away and adopted into the tribe — a
theory that seems hardly probable, as his presence would have become known when
the entire baud of hostiles surrendered several months afterward. It seems more
probable that the unfortunate youth was taken prisoner, and proving an inconvenience
to his brutal captors, was by them unceremoniously murdered and his corpse thrown
aside, where it remained undiscovered. Mr. Harris was surprised by the Indians, and
retreating to the house, was shot in the breast as he reached the door. His wife, with
the greatest courage and presence of mind, closed and barred the door, and in obedi-
ence to her wounded husband's advice, brought down the fire-arms which the house
contained — a rifie, a double shotgun, a revolver and a single-barreled pistol — and
began to fire at the Indians, hardly with the expectation of hitting them, but to deter
them from assaulting or setting fire to the house. Previous to this a shot fired by the
Indians had wounded her little daughter in the arm, making a painful but not danger-
ous flesh wound, and the terrified child climbed to the attic of the dwelling where she
remained for several hours. Throughout all this time the heroic woman kept the
savages at bay, and attended as well as she was able to the wants of her fearfully
wounded husband, who expired in about an hour after he was shot. Fortunately, she
had been taught the use of fire-arms; and to this she owed her preservation and that
of her daughter. The Indians, who could be seen moving about in the vicinity of the
bouse, wei'e at pains to keep within cover and dared not approach near enough to set
fire to the dwelling, although they burned the out-buildings, first taking the horses
from the stable. Mrs. Harris steadily loaded her weapons, and fired them through
the crevices between the logs of which the house was built. In the afternoon, though
at what time it was impossible for her to tell, the Indians drew off and left the stout-
hearted woman mistress of the field. She had saved her own and her daughter's life,
and added a deathless page to the record of the country's history.

After the departure of the savages, the heroine with her daughter left the house
and sought refuge in a thicket of willows near the road, and remained there all night.
Next morning several Indians passed, but did not discover them, and during the day
a company of volunteers, hastily collected in Jacksonville, approached, to whom the
two presented themselves, the sad survivors of a once happy home.

When, on the ninth of October, a rider came dashing into Jacksonville and
quickly told of the fray, great excitement prevailed, and men volunteered to go to the
aid of whoever might need help. Almost immediately a score of men were in their
saddles and pushing toward the river. Major Fitzgerald, stationed at Fort Lane, went

INDIAN WARS. 247

or was sent by C'aptain Smith, at the head of fifty-five mouuted men, and these going
with the vohinteers, jiroceeded along the track of ruin and desolation left by the
savages. At Wagner's house, some five or six volunteers who were in advance, came
upon a few Indians hiding in the brush near by, who, unsuspicious of the main l)ody
advancing along the road, challenged the whites to a fight. Major Fitzgerald came
up and ordered a charge; and six of the "red devils" were killed, and the rest driven
"on the jump" to the hills, but could not be overtaken. Giving up the pursuit, the
regulars and volunteers marched along the road to the Harris house, where, as we
have seen, they found the devoted mother and her child, and removed them to a place
of safety in Jacksonville. They proceeded to and camped at Grave creek that night,
and returned the next day.

A company of volunteei's led by Captain Rinearson hastily came from Cow
creek, and scoured the country about Grave creek and vicinity, finding quite a number
of bodies of murdered men. On the twenty-fifth of October the body of J. B. Powell,

of Lafayette, Yamhill county, was found and buried. James White and Fox

liad been previously found dead. All the houses along the Indians' route had been
robbed and then burned, with two or three exceptions.

It would be difficult to picture the state of alarm which prevailed when the full
details of the massacre Avere made known. Self-preservation, the first law of nature,
was exemplified in the actions of all. The peojile of Rogue river valley, j^robably
without exception, withdrew from their ordinary occupations and "forted up" or retired
to the larger settlements. Jacksonville was the objective point of most of these fugi-
tives, who came in on foot, on horse or mule back, or with their families or more
portable jjroperty loaded on wagons drawn by oxen. In every direction mines were
abandoned, farms and fields were left unwatched, the herdsman forsook his charge,
and all sought refuge from the common enemy. The industries which had suffered a
severe but only temporary check in the summer of 1853, were again brought to a
standstill, and the trade and commerce which were rapidly building up Jackson and
her neighboring counties, became instantly paralyzed. All business and pleasure were
forsaken, to devise means to meet and van(|uish the hostile bands. Nor was this state
of affairs confined to the Rogue river country. Other and far distant regions caught
the infection, and for a time the depressing expectation of Indian forays racked many
a breast. The people of far removed districts devised means of defense from imagi-
nary foes. The Methodists of the Tualatin plains, in peaceful Washington county,
built a stockade about their little church, within which, unterrified l)y imminent
danger, they might worship God as did the Pilgrim Fathers while their red-skinned
adversaries howled and beat upon their impregnable fortress. An imaginary host of
Indians threatened the Willamette valley from north, from south and from east.
Three hundred Klamath warriors had arrived, it was rumored, at the head of the
Santiam, and were preparing to rush upon the defenseless settlements below. Indian
alarmists at Salem and Portland projected measures of defense, and boiled over in
indignation when their advice was rejected. A safety meeting was held at Corvallis
because three hundred Cow Creek Indians were said to have come north of the Cala-
pooia mountains, and threatened the lives of all. The Oregon papers of that date
wen- full <if matter cMlcuhited to show the extreme state of apprehension wliicli like a

248 INDIAN WARS.

Avave swept over this fair land. It will be believed that there was ample reason for
such a feeling in those Avho lived south of the Calapooias. The settlers on the
Umpqua and its tributaries were obviously endangered, nor did they escape the incon-
veniencies, and in some cases, the actual presence of war. They, like their less fortu-
nate friends on the Rogue river, "forted up," that is, retired to places of safety, and
there remained until the Indian scare had settled down to steady warfare. At Scotts-
burg, more than a hundred miles from the seat of war, the inhabitants thus took
refuge. The commonest form of protective structure was a house of logs with loop-
holes between, through which a fire of small-arms might be kept up. At other jilaces
more elaborate defenses were substituted, the old-fashioned block house, with its looj^-
holes and projecting ujiper story, being a not uncommon sight. Earthworks, consist-
ing of rifle pits including a house, were a favorite form. Any structure so situated as
to command quite an area, and so built as to resist rifle bullets and afibrd immunity
against fire, served for the temporary habitation of those who were driven from their
own homes.

It should be remarked that the situation in Southern Oregon was even more serious
than was thought possible by those who viewed these affairs from abroad, or thi'ough
the distorting medium of the newspapers. The people were beset on all sides by sav-
ages, they knew not how numerous, and who might strike, they knew not where. The
extent of the Indian uprising was not at first understood. The few Indians who had
done so much mischief in the Siskiyou mountains were now imitated on a much graniler
scale by many times tlieir number of bolder and more skillful fighters, who were well
sui^plied with ammunition, and having in profusion, guns, rifles, revolvers and knives,
as great in assortment and better in quality than the whites themselves were 23rovided
with. Besides, of the several thousand Indians who inhabited Southern Oregon, no
one could tell which band might dig up the hatchet and go on the war parth in imita-
tion of those who were already so actively butchering and burning. The Table Rock
band, steadfastly friendly, withstood the temptation to avenge their undoubted griev-
ances, and remained upon the reservation, thereby diminishing the enemy's force very
considerably. The Coast Indians, formidable and dangerous barbarians, as yet had
not been influenced to join the malcontents, but we shall see how at a later date they
became hostile and equalled their allies in savagery and bloodthirstiness.

To oppose such an array of active murderers and incendiaries, the genei-al gov-
ernment had a small number of troops unfitted to perform the duties of Indian fighting
by reason of their unsuitable mode of dress, tactics and their dependence upon quar-
termaster and commissary trains. The fact has been notorious throughout all the
years of American independence that the regular army, however brave or well offi-
cered, has not been uniformly successful in fighting the Indians. The reasons for this
every frontiersman knows. They are as set forth above. But upon such troops the
government in 1855 relied to keep peace between the hostile white and Indian popu-
lation in Southern Oregon, and although w^ith final success, we shall see that the
operation of subduing the Indians was needlessly long and tedious. We shall also see
how an ill-organized, unpaid, ill-fed, ill-clothed and insubordinate volunteer organiza-
tion, brought together in as many hours as it required weeks to marshal a regular
force, dispersed the savages repeatedly, fought them wherever they could be found, and

INDIAN WAKS. 219

in the most cheerless dnys of winter resolutely followed their inveterate foe, and Avere
" in at the death" of the allied tribes.

The formation of volunteer comjjauies and the enrollment of men, began imme-
diately upon the receipt of the news of the outbreak. The chief settlements — Jackson-
ville, Applegate creek. Sterling, Illinois valley. Deer creek, Butte creek, Galice creek,
Grave creek, Vannoy's ferry, and Cow creek — become centers of enlistment, and to
them resorted the ftirmes, miners, and traders of the vicinity, who with the greatest
unanimity enrolled themselves as volunteers to carry on the war which all now saw to
be unavoidable. On the twelfth of October, John E. Eoss, Colonel of the Ninth j-egi-
ment of Oregon militia, assumed command of the forces already raised, by virtue of his
commission, and in compliance with a resolution of the people of Jacksonville and
vicinity. Eecognizing the need of mounted troops for the duty of protecting the settle-
ments, he made proclamation calling into service men provided with horses and arms,
and in two days had increased his command to nine comj^anies, aggregating five hun-
dred men. Several of these companies had been on duty from the day succeeding the
massacre, so promiDtly did their members respond to the call of duty. The regiment
was increased by the first of November, to fifteen companies, containing an average of
fifty men each, or seven hundred and fifty in all. The initiatory steps of the organiza-
tion of the volunteer forces were necessarily precipitous, and in some cases correspond-
ingly irregular. This organization was based upon the militia law of the territory, as
it then existed, declaring the territory a military district for brigade purposes, of which
by authority of the act of congress organizing the territory, the governor was com-
mander-in-chief. This law further provided for the appointment by the governor, of
a brigadier general, and for the election in subordinate districts, of colonels and other
regimental officers. It also embraced the usual departments of the general staff", and
provided for the commission of their chief, and subordinate officers.

It is justly thought remarkable that such a force could have been raised in a
country of such a limited population as Southern Oregon ; and this fact is rendered still
more remarkable by the extreme promptness with which this respectable little army was
gathered. If we examine the muster-rolls of the different companies, we shall be struck
by the youth of the volunteers — the average age being not beyond twenty-four years.
From all directions they came, these young, jirorapt and brave men, from every gulch,
hillside and plain, from every mining claim, trading post and farm of this extensive
region, and from the sympathizing towns and mining camps of Northern California,
which also sent their contingents. Thus an army was gathered, able in all respects to
perform their undertaking of restoring peace, and suddenly too. These troops, as
already said, were mounted. Their animals were gathered from pack-trains, farms and
towns, and were in many cases unused to the saddle. But the exegencies of war did
not allow the rider to hesitate between a horse and a mule, or to humor the whims of
the stubborn mustang or intractable cayuse. With the greatest celerity and prompt-
ness the single organizations had hurried to the rescue of the outlying settlements and
in many cases preserved the lives of settlers menaced by Indians. Captain Rinearson,
at Cow creek, enrolled thirty-five men on the day following the massacre, and by night-
fall had stationer! his men so as to effectually guard many miles of the road, leaving
men at the Canvon, at Levens' Station, at Turner's, and the remainder at Harkness

250 INDIAN WARS.

aud Twogood's Grave Creek House; and receiving reinforcements, sent thirty men down
Grave creek and to Galice creek. By such exertions the enemy were overawed, and
the white inhabitants, seeing an armed force in their midst, began to regain calmness
and confidence.

While the work of organizing the forces was going on, the Indian maraviders had
retired to the neighborhood of Grave creek, Cow creek and Galice creek, on each of
which and particularly the two latter, were important settlements. The country
threatened and partially occupied by the hostiles was the northern part of Josephine
county — a land of canyons, narrow valleys, steep mountain sides and thick woods.
Into this almost inaccessible retreat they had thrown themselves, and from there they
issued forth at will to burn, plunder and murder. On the morning of the seventeenth
of October the united bands of Limpy, George, John and Tenas Tyee made an attack
on the headquarters of the volunteers on Galice creek, and the fight ensued which has
been celebrated since as the "Siege of Galice creek." Captain William B. Lewis, in
command of a company of about thirty-five men, was stationed at the creek, where his
men were doing picket and garrison duty. On the day mentioned, two men came to
headquarters and reported finding Indian signs near by. Directly after Sergeant
Adams, who had proceeded out to reconnoitre, was fired at by the hostiles who
appeared in strong force on the hill overlooking the houses used as headquarters.
Several volunteers who were standing near were also fired upon, and Private J. W.
Pickett was mortally wounded by a shot through the body, and died during the day.
The headquarters consisted of two board houses, situated some twenty yards apart, and
about an equal distance from the stream. Some four or five men took a position in a
ditch which had been cut for defensive purposes; others took shelter within a log-
corral adjoining one of the houses, while within the latter the remainder Avere installed.
The enemy were hidden behind natural obstructions in all directions from the defenses,
which they surrounded. Very soon the men were driven from the ditch, and took
refuge in the houses. While retreating toward the house, Private Israel D. Adams
was shot and fell, mortally injured, near the house, being assisted into it by Private
Allen Evans, who, while thus engaged, received a severe wound in the jaw. The
Indians immediately occupied the ditch to the number of twenty or more, and kept up
a fire on the houses, within which the volunteers were erecting defences by digging uj)
floors, piling up blankets, etc. The Indians loudly announced their intention of firing
the houses, scalping the men, and capturing the provisions and ammunition, and this
cheerful talk was translated by the squaw of Umpqua Joe, a friendly Indian who was
taking part with the whites, and who, with the squaw, was in the house. Umpqua
Joe himself had the misfortune to be wounded ; and during the fight a bullet pene-
trated the thin walls of the liou.se and struck Private Samuel Sanders in the head,
killing him instantly. Considerable conversation of an unfriendly nature passed
between the different sides, and a steady fire was kept up by both. Several attempts
were made by the enemy to set fire to the houses, and Chief George particularly distin-
guished himself by attempting to throw burning faggots upon the I'oofs. This man,
as well as John, Limj)y and others, were recognized by the besieged party. The
engagement lasted nearly all day, the Indians at nightfall retiring from the scene.
When they had disappeared, the volunteers went to work to strengthen their defences

INDIAN WARS. 251

by exteiuliug their ditch, at which they occupied themselves nearly all night. In the
morning some Indians apjieared, and seeing from the preparations that the whites were
well ready to receive them, fired their guns, retreated, and were not again seen on
Galice creek. The different accounts of this fight describe it as having been a closely
contested affair, and of really important consequences. Three men had been killed or
mortally wounded. Besides these, Benjamin Tufts, severely wounded, died on the
twenty-eighth of November following. Captain Lewis, First Lieutenant W. A. Moore,
and Privates Allen Evans, John Erixson, Louis Dunois, Milton Blacklidge and Ump-
qua Joe were wounded. How great the Indian loss was could not be determined, as
they carried away their injured, according to custom. The common opinion was that
it was about ecpial to that of the whites. Thus the fight was comparatively desperate
and bloody.

A few days subsequent to the fight at Galice creek, and while the whereabouts of
the Indians was unknown, an opportune circumstance revealed their place of abode.
Lieutenant (since General) A. V. Kautz, of the regular army, set out from Port Orford
with a guard of ten soldiers to explore the country lying between that place and Fort
Lane, thinking to find a route for a practicable trail or wagon road by which the
inland station could be supplied from Port Orford instead of the longer and very diffi-
cult Crescent City route. The country proved even more rough, steejj and precipitous
than it had been reported to be ; and the Lieutenant was many days upon his journey.
Leaving the river near the mouth of Grave creek, he ascended the neighboring hills
and, much to his surprise, came upon a very large band of Indians. As they proved
hostile, there was no resource but to run for it, and losing one man by the savages'
fire, the officer made his escape to Fort Lane, fortunate in getting away so easily.

Having now, by this unlucky experience of Lieutenant Kautz, been made aware
of the Indians' exact whereabouts. Colonel Ross and Captain Smith, combining forces
as well as the mutual jealousies of regulars and volunteers would permit, began to plan
an active campaign. All the disposable troops at Fort Lane consisted of eighty-five
men and four officers : Captain A. J. Smith, first dragoons ; First Lieutenant H. G.
Gibson, third artillery ; Second Lieutenant A. V. Kautz, fourth infantry ; and Second
Lieutenant B. Alston, first dragoons. These set out on the twenty -seventh of October,
and on arriving at the Grave creek house were joined by Colonel Ross' command, of
about two hundred and ninety men, besides a portion of Major Martin's force from
Deer creek. From this point the combined forces moved on October thirtieth, to the
Indian camp, arriving at daybreak at a j'oint where Captains Harris and Bruci' were
deployed to the left, while Captain Smith, with the regulars, took the ridge to the
right, ^vith the expectation of arriving in the rear of the Indians' position, whereby
they might be surrounded and captured. Captains Williams and Rinearson followed
in Captain Smith's tracks. The country not being perfectly known by the whites, sev-
. eral mistakes followed in con.sequence, and Harris and Bruce came directly upon the
Indian encami)ment, and were in full view of the savages before any strategic move-
ment could be made, and no opportunity for surprising the enemy offered itself The
time was sunrise, and Captain Smith had gained his rear position and had built fires
for his men's refreshment, at the place where Lieutenant Kautz had been attacked.
By these fires the Indians were warned of the ])arty in their rear, and |)repare(l them-

252 INDIAN WARS.

selves accordingly. The regulars descended into a deep gorge, climbed up the other side
and directly were engaged with the Indians, who advanced to meet them. The savages
" paraded in true military style," but directly fell back to a ledge of rocks or to the
brushy crest of a hill. From the crest of the hill for a mile or more in the rear of
the Indians, was a dense thicket ; on the right and left were precipitous descents into a
gorge filled with j^ines and undergrowth, in which the natives concealed themselves
almost jjerfectly from the view of the whites, who possessed no resources sufficient to
dislodge them. The ridge being bare on top, the men were necessarily exposed to the
enemy's fire, and some casualties resulted. Movements were made to get in the
Indians' rear in this new position, but such attempts were futile. Several charges were
made by the regulars but ineflPectually, although the men were for considerable periods
within ten or twenty yards of the hostiles. The latter fought bravely and steadily,
picking off^the whites by a regular fire from their rifles, which were pitied against the
inferior w^eapons of the troops, or at least of the regulars, two-thirds of whom had
only the " musketoon," a short, smooth-bore weapon, discharging inaccurately a heavy
round bullet, whose range was necessarily slight. About sunset the commanders con-
cluded to retire from the field, and did so, first posting sentries to observe the savages'
movements. The united commands encamped for the niglit at Bloody Spring, as it
was named, some distance down the hill.

On the following morning Lieutenant Gibson, of the regulars, with ten men, pro-
ceeded up the hill to the battle-field, to secure the dead body of a private of his detach-
ment, and when returning with it was pursued by the savages, who came down and
attacked the camp in force, firing numerous shots. No damage was done by this
attack except the wounding of Lieutenant Gibson, and after a time the savages were
driven off. No further attemj)t against the Indians was made, and after advising with
their officers the two commanders decided to remove their troops from the vicinity.
Accordingly, orders were given and the retrograde march began.

The total loss was thirty-one, of whom nine were killed, and twenty-two wounded.
Several of the latter died of their injuries. The volunteers killed were Privates Jacob
W. Miller, James Pearcy and Henry Pearl, of Rinearson's company; John Winters,
of Williams'; and Jonathan A. Pedigo, of Harris'. The wounded were Privates
William H. Crouch, Enoch Miller and Ephriam Tager, of Rinearson's ; Thomas
Ryan and William Stamms, of Williams' ; L. F. Allen, John Goldsby, Thomas Gill,
C." B. Hinton, William M. Hand, William I. Mayfield, William Puruell and William
White, of Harris'; C. C. Goodwin, of Bruce's; and John Kennedy, of Welton's. The
latter died on the seventh of November, and C. B. Hinton. in endeavoring to make his
way alone to the Grave Creek House, lost his road and perished from exposure. Tliis
fight, occurring on the thirty-first of October and the first of November, is known by
the several names of the Battle of Bloody Springs, Battle of Hungry Hill, and Battle
in the Grave Creek Hills.

From these details, and considering that the Indians maintained their position on
the battle-field, without great loss, it is evident that the campaign was an unsuccessful
one. It is generally admitted by the whites who took jjart in the engagement, that the
affiiir resulted in a 23artial defeat, and they ascribe therefor several reasons, either of
which seems sufficient. The inclemency of the weather is set forth as a reason, and is

ft/'-" ^

INDIAN WARS. 253

doubtless an important one. It is known from good authority that one man perished
from eohl and wet, and that the bodies of those slain in the fight were frozen stiff in a
few hours. This would indicate very severe cold, but from independent sources we
gather that the w^eather throughout the winter was exceptionally severe. Troops, ill
provided with blankets and clothing, stationed at the very considerable altitude of
the Grave creek hills, were under the worst possible circumstances for continuing the
attack. Besides, a still more serious reason presented itself. There was not a sufficient
supply of food to maintain a single company of men. The commissariat w^as in chaotic
condition, alid supplies were either not sent out, or failed to reach the nearly starving
troojjs in time to be of use. This is a notorious fact in Southern Oregon, but, singu-
larly enough, fails to appear in the earliest published accounts of the affiiir. The
commissary and quartermaster departments were at fault, nor do they aj^pear to have
been efficiently administered at any time during the war, although their expenses (duly
charged to the United States) were preposterously great. Figures are at hand to show
that the expense of the latter department exceeded, for a time, eight hundred dollars
per day! And this for transportation alone. A large number of Mexicans were borne
on the rolls as packers, whose daily pay was six dollars, and who had the care and
management of about one hundred and fifty pack animals, which were used in carrying
supplies from Jacksonville or Crescent City to the seat of war. They belonged to the
volunteer service, and were entirely distinct from the trains by which the regulars at
Fort Lane were supplied. It was to the mismanagement of the persons in charge of
the trains that the failure of the camp)aign was attributed, and apparently with con-
siderable justice. The charge of insubordination made against the volunteers in con-
sequence of their conduct at Bloody spring, will be recalled when treating of the later
events of the war.

As was customary with the regular army officials at that date, a great deal of
blame was cast upon the volunteers fdr their alleged failure to properly second the
efforts of the government troops. This charge is retorted upon Captain Smith's
soldiers by counter-charges of similar tenor ; and as neither side in the controvesy is
supported by any but interested evidence, we cannot at this date satisfactorily discuss
the question. The matter, however, is connected with the invariable tendency to
antagonism of the two related, yet oj)posed, branches of service, which antagonism
shows itself on every similar occasion, and is an annoying subject indeed. We see the
spectacle of two diffisrent organizations, bent upon the same object and pursuing an
identical road to the attainment of their object, but falling into bitterness by the way-
side and continually reviling each other, and failing to lend their moral suiqiort and
frecjuently their physical aid.

The governor of Oregon, George L. Curry, entered considerably into tlie buisiness
of making proclamations during the events of the Rogue river war, and his first effort
in that line, bearing upon the prosecution of hostilities in this region, was as follows :

Whereas, By petition numerously signed by citizens of Umpqua valley, calling uj^ou me for
protection, it has come to my knowledge that the Shasta and Rogue River Indians, in Southern
Oregon, in violation of their soleiim engagements, are now in arms against the peace of this terri-
tory ; that they have, without respect to age or sex, murdered a large number of our people,
burned their dwellings, and destroyed their property ; and that they are now menacing the south-
ern settlements with all the atrocities of savage warfare, I issue this my proclamation, calling for

254 INDIAN WARS.

five comjDauies of mounted voluuteera, to constitute a uorthern battalion, and four companies of
mounted volunteers to constitute a southern battalion, to remain in force until duly discharged-
The several comi^anies to consist of one captain, one first lieutenant, one second lieutenant, four
sergeants, four corporals, and sixty privates, each volunteer to furnish his own horse, arms and
equipments, each company to select its own officers, and thereafter to proceed with the utmost
possible dispatch to the rendezvous hereafter appointed. It is expected that Jackson county will
furnish the number of men wanted for the southern battalion, which will rendezvous at Jackson-
ville, elect a major to command, and report in writing to headquarters. It will then proceed to
take effective measures to recover indemnity for the past, and conquer a lasting peace with the
enemy for the future. The following-named counties are expected to make vij) the number of men
wanted for the northern battalion : Lane county, two companies; Linn county, one company;
Douglas county, one company ; Umpqua county, one company; which will rendezvous at Rose-
burg, Douglas county, elect a major to command, and report in writing to headquarters. It will
then proceed immediately to open and maintain communication with the settlements in the Rogue
river valley, and thereafter co-operate with the southern battalion in a vigorous prosecution of the
camp)aign.

Given under my hand at Portland, the fifteenth of October, A. D., 1855.

By the Governor, George L. Cuery.

Johu K. Laiiierick, received the appointmeut of acting adjutant-general for the
vokmteers on Rogue river, and was entrusted with the duty of mustering in and
organizing the forces. He arrived at the seat of war several days after the fight at
Hungry Hill, and immediately proceeded with his duties. Some twelve or thirteen
companies, of from twenty to eighty men each, jiresented themselves and requested to
be mustered in. Lamerick demurred to this, however, as under his instructions the
services of only four companies could be accepted. He agreed in short, to muster the
remaining companies into a separate battalion, who could then elect their own major.
This proposition was not acceptable to many, who wished all to be in the same battalion.
On the tenth of November the volunteers being encamped at Vannoy's ferry, the com-
panies of Bruce, Williams, Wilkinson and Alcorn were mustered in, and organized into
a battalion known as the southern battalion, of which Captain James Bruce was elected
Major, over Captain R. L. Williams his only competitor. The remaining troops were
disbanded by order of Colonel Ross.

At the rendezvous for the northern battalion enlistments began early, and about
the twentieth of October William J. Martin was elected Major. Quartermaster-General
McCarver occupied an office in the court house at Roseburg, engaged in fitting out
the troops. The strength of the companies, set originally at sixty-three rank and file,
was increased by Major Martin to one hundred and ten. The Douglas county company
called for by the governor, was easily recruited and held its election October 27, when
Samuel Gordon was elected captain. The Linn county company was commanded by
Captain Jonathan Keeney; the two from Lane county by Captains Buoy and Bailey;
respectively. On the last of November, Major Martin moved his headquarters fi-om
Roseburg to a point forty-eight miles south of Roseburg, and seven miles north of
Grave creek, calling his new location Camp Leland. Here for a few days the com-
panies of Buoy and Keeney lay, while Bailey moved to Camas valley, and Gordon,
dividing his company, posted a part in Cow creek valley and the Canyon, and the
remainder on the North Umpqua, where a few stray Indians had made hostile manifes-
tations. Some fifty men of the Umpqua company were sent to Scottsburg, near the
mouth of the river, where, as before remarked, some anxiety was felt regarding an

INDIAN WARS. 255

attack by the savages. Major Martin's written instructions to C^aptain Bailey at
Camas prairie, given under date of November 10, conclude thus : " In chastising the
enemy you will use your owu discretion provided you take no prisoners." Captains
Buoy and Keeney received similar instructions, the original order being now on file
in the state house at Salem.

The southern battalion had posted at the same time, detachments at Evans' ferry
and at Bowden's, and troops were sent to assist Messrs. Harkness & Twogood, who were
holding their tavern on Grave creek, and declared their jjurpose to retain it at all
hazards. They had erected a complete stockade of timbers and prepared for a siege>
as after the fight at Hungry hill it was sujd posed that Indian attacks would become
frequent. The disposition of the military along the line of communication between
the Rogue river and Umpqua valleys, however, effectually prevented the enemy from
reaching the more important settlements, and the savages finding all avenues to the
eastward closed, broke camp at Bloody spring and went down the Rogue river, taking
refuge in the almost inaccessible country bordering that stream. The mountains
thereabouts presented almost insuijerable obstacles to the transiJortation of troops and
sujiplies by reason of their steepness, the number of deep gorges which intersect them
and the dense foi-ests by which their sides are clothed. Underbrush of the densest
kind abounds ; no roads nor even trails existed then, and scarcely do now exist ; am-
bushes might have been easily formed ; and in a word, the Indians' hiding place was
perfectly adapted to their security. Having so favorable a country to operate in, and
being themselves unequaled as " mountain soldiers" and bush-fighters, through long
experience in the woods, and in actual war they were well situated to resist attacks, as
we shall see.

The two battalions composing the " army" as newly organized, were expected to
co-operate, although their commanding officers were mutually independent. After the
mustering in at Camp Vannoy, the two Majors, having discovered through their scouts
where the Indians had gone, determined on a plan of united action, in which thev were
promised the supjiort of all the disjiosable regulars at Fort Lane. The United States
forces in November were seriously curtailed by the withdrawal of Major Fitzgerald
with his company of dragoons, ninety in number, who, under orders from Gen. John E.
Wool, commanding the Pacific department, proceeded to Vancouver. Captain Judah
still remained at the fort, and this oflicer, who acted under Captain Smith's orders,
joined the expedition down the Rogue river — an expedition which we will designate as
the First Meadows Cami)aigu.

CHAPTER XXX.

THE FIRST MEADOWS CAMPAIGN.

Expedition Down Rog-ue River— Nothing Accomplished— Various Diffitulties in Djuglas County— Siege of
the Cabins on Applegate Creek— The Enemy Escape— Killing of Hull and Angell— Conclusion of the
Applegate Affair— The Army Re-Organized— Its Strength -Jocular— The War Necessary— Appointment of
a Brigadier General.

Oil November twentieth Majors Martin and Bruce and Captain Judali left Evans'
creek, taking all the regular and volunteer troops which could be s^iared, and a suffi-
cient supply of provisions for a short campaign. A day or two days later, dates
differing, they encamped at the mouth of Whiskey creek, and found traces of Indians.
Proceeding down the river the next morning, keeping along the high lands back a
mile or two from the stream, they found the Indians in strong force in the woods
bordering the river. The country, as before mentioned, is exceedingly rough, covered
with tangled underbrush, broken up into deep canyons, precipitous descents, and im-
jjenetrable gorges. It was deemed proper to cross to the south side of the river, and
for this purpose Major Bruce proceeded with his battalion down to the river, being
then near the mouth of Jackass creek, and attempted to cross. The battalion
were scattered upon the bar which borders the river on the north bank, and some
engaged themselves in endeavoring to construct rafts to ferry the command across,
while others prospected for gold in the gravelly bar. Indians within the dense
cover of the trees along the south bank began firing, and the whites hurriedly left
the bar and sought shelter in the brush. Captain Alcorn shouted " Form a line

here ; where the are you running ?" But his Lieutenant replied, " Form ■

and ! Break for the brush, every one of you, or you'll get shot!" And the

privates thought the latter advice best, and hid themselvas with desperate haste.
This closed the campaign as far as the battalion of Major Bruce was concerned, for
thus defeated in their attempt to cross the river they retired to communicate with
Martin and Judah. The latter officer signalized himself on many occasions through-
out his residence on the Pacific coast by his devotion to artillery jjractice. A heavy
twelve-pound howitzer was the inseparable companion of all his expeditions to fight
the Indians. On this occasion he had brought this piece with infinite difficulty and
labor, to the Meadows ; and at the time of Bruce's discomfiture he with Martin lay
upon the hill above him and several miles away, firing from that lofty position his
clumsy piece of ordnance at the enemy, with the effect only to set the wild echoes flying
through the hitherto silent solitude. After a deal of unprofitable practice the trio of
commanders resolved upon a retrograde march ; and loading Captain Judah's toy upon
a stalwart mule, the army slowly retired to Vannoy's and Camp Leland. One volun-
teer, William Lewis, of Kenny's company, was killed, and five were wounded. At

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INDIAN WARS. 257

least one Indian bit the dust, for George Cherry killed a brave and carried the scalp
tied to his war-horse's bridle.

The various detachments arrived at the Grave creek camp (jn November twenty-
first, and the companies were separated, being sent to guard the more exposed j^laces
and endeavor to keep the savages from making forays upon the inhabited country lying
to the westward of their position. The weather came on exceedingly cold and nearly
put a stop to all military operations for a time. The various companies went into
winter quarters, but a few events took place in December to prove to the citizens that
a state of war existed. The first of these was the descent of some twenty or thirty
Indians upon the Rice settlement at the mouth of Looking-glass creek, eight miles
south of Roseburg. The hostiles burned the Rice house, and captured some fire-arms
and did other damage. A small company of men, commanded by J. P. Day, went
from Deer creek to the scene and engaged and defeated the Indians, killing three, it
was said. The stolen guns, horses, etc., were re-captured. Castleman, a member of
the com]:)any, was slightly wounded. The affray occurred on the second of December-
The Indians were probably Cow Creeks, a band of disaffected natives, who were actu-
ated by hostility to the whites, but did not, it appears, feel sufficiently warlike to join
Limpy and George on the banks of Rqgue river.

Some few of the peaceable, yet wretched and debased family of the Umpcpias,
resided in and around the pleasant vale of Looking-glass, and these, true to their
harmless instincts, refrained from war throughout the troublous times of the conflict
in the south, and sought by every humble act to express their dependence on and lik-
ing for the whites. When war broke out on Rogue river, these inoffensive people were
gathered in Looking-glass valley, occupying a rancheria on the creek of that name,
where they lived at peace with all the world, and ignorant and careless of everything
outside of their own little sphere. Mr. Arrington was nominally their agent and pro-
tector. In an evil hour — for them — certain white people of that vicinity, who imag-
ined that they were dangerous neighbors, organized themselves into a comjjany, and
fell suddenly upon the helpless little community, and scattered them to the four winds
of heaven. Several men were killed ; and one old squaw, in whom old age and rheu-
matic bones defeated nature's first law of self-preservation, died, a victim, unmeant
perhaps, but still a victim, and slain by white men's bullets. The date of this trans-
action is at hand ; and proof of all its particulars ; but like other wrongs and much
violence done that race, it best were l)uried, and only resurrected to serve the truth
where truth needs telling.

On Cow creek quite a series of disturbances occurred during the wintei' of 18.3o-0.
The first of these in brief was the attack on some hog-drovers from Lane county, who
were traversing the road. H. Bailey was killed instantly, and Z. Bailey and three
others wounded. The Indians burned on that day (October 24, ISoo) the houses and
barns of Turner, Bray, Fortune, Redfield and one other. Mr. Redfield placed his
family in a wagon and started for a place of safety, but soon the horses were shot, and
he took his wife upon his back and carried her to a fortified place. Mrs. Redfield was^
wounded, however, before reaching there.

The raid of certain Indians through Camas, Ten-mile and Looking-glass valleys

258 INDIAN WARS.

is detailed in another part of this volume. This affair occurred in the later months
of the war.

Late in March Major Latshaw, of the second regiment, set out on an expedition
against the Cow Creek Indians, taking with him a portion of the companies of Kobert-
sou, Wallan, Sheffield and Barnes. On the twenty-fourth of the month some Indians
were found at the big bend of Cow creek, and were attacked and routed. Several of
them were killed or wounded, and one white man. Private William Daley, of Sheffield's
company, was killed, and Captain Barnes and Privates Andrew Jones, A. H. Wood-
ruff and J. Taylor were wounded. The Indians dissappeared from the vicinity after
this defeat, and did not return for a considerable time. These incidents comprise the
principal hostile acts which took place in Douglas county.

The people on Butte creek, in Jackson county, had, with the first alarm of war,
sought safety in a camp of log houses on Felix O'Neal's donation claim. Several
families — in fact, nearly the whole poj^ulation of the country adjoining — made their
residences there for a time, and carried out measures of defense. Alcorn's company
was recruited among the hardy settlers thereabouts, and subsequent to their return
from the first meadows cam23aign, were jDOsted in part at this fortified camp, and served
to restore public confidence. Jake, a well-known chief of a small band of Indians,
with his braves had long inhabited that portion of the country, and had refused to go
on the reservation. The Indian agent, owing to the smallness of their numbers, had
never thought it necessary to compel them to go there, and so they were suffered to
remain, a nuisance, if not a positive danger to the whites. They were said to steal,
and were not supposed to be above the crime of burning buildings. They dwelt in a
rancheria, between the Butte creeks. On the night of December twenty-fourth, Caji-
tain Alcorn, with a part of his men, marched to the rancheria and camped within a
mile of it, in the cold and snow. At daybreak the next morning the troops moved
within rifle range, and began to fire. This they kept u]) until the natives were killed
or dispersed, their loss being eight "bucks" killed, and the remainder wounded. One
squaw was wounded in the jaw, and two men were captured. Only four guns were
taken, but no ammunition, and three stolen horses wei'e recaptured. Old Jake, the
chief, was not in the fight, and was reported killed by the Shastas.

A similar affair occurred at the same date between a detachment of Captain
Rice's company, numbering thirty-four men, and the Indians of a rancheria four
miles from and on the north side of Rogue river, and just below the mouth of Big
Butte creek. A night march and an attack at daybreak formed the salient features
of this affair also, which was likewise completely successful. The Indians were taken
by surprise, and after several hours' fighting eighteen males were killed, and twenty
squaws and children captured and the rancheria burned. The Indians, finding them-
selves surrounded, fought bravely to the last. But one female was injured in the fight.

On the same day on which the detachments of Alcorn and Rice started out, a third
one consisting of twenty men of Bushey's company set out on a scouting tour to the
neighborhood of Williams' creek, where a portion of old John's band were busying
themselves in many a hostile way, much raised in self-esteem by the partial successes
of their bold leader since the war began. On the evening of the same day an Indian
trail was found by a spy party, which was followed the next day by the command, but

INDIAN WARS. 259

witJiout finding the vanclieria. During the evening a man strayed off and became lost"
The next day was S2)ent in searching for him under the impression that he had fallen a
victim to Indian barbarity. However, on the following day news came of his safe
arrival at Tliompson's ranch, on the Applegate, and of his having found a camp of ten
or twelve Indians, near whom he camped for t)ie night, but escaped unobserved.
Orders were immediately given for following that trail, and, the command being divided,
the Indian camp was easily found. The foremost detachment, seven in number, opened
fire on them and and killed three, putting the rest to flight. No whites were injured.

Toward the last of December some scouts who happened to be near the forks of
the Applegate discovered that a body of Indians probably twelve or so in number had
taken possession of two deserted miners' cabins and had gone into winter quarters there,
preparing themselves for a state of siege by excavating the floors of the houses and
piling the dirt against the walls so as to form a protection against rifle bullets. The
scouts withdrew unseen, and going to Sterling told the news. A body of sixty or more
miners and others went immediately to watch the cabins and prevent the Indians from
escaping, while word was sent to various military companies who began to repair to the
spot. Captain Bushey arrived, and finding the position too strong for his small force
to take, awaited the arrival of others. Captain Smith sent Lieutenants Hagen and
Underwood with twenty-five regulars and the inevitable howitzer, with the design of
shelling the savages out; but the fortune of war was unpropitious. The mule carrying
the ammunition was so heedless as to fall into a deep creek and be killed, while the
powder was ruined. Moi'e ammunition was sent for,, and Lieutenant Switzer with
sixteen regulars brought it on a mule. This animal was more fortunate; and the regular
army drew up in front of the cabins and at a safe distance fired a shell which passed
into or through a cabin and killed, as the records say, two savages. But before the
howitzer's arrival the Indians had signalized themselves by a strong resistance. They
had killed a man by a rifle-shot, at a distance of 500 yards — a display of marksmanship
equal to the best known among the whites. Five whites had been wounded.

After the shell was fired, the regulars postponed further operations until the
morrow, as night was near. Wlien they arose the next morning their birds had flown
and the cages were empty. Quite a force of volunteers had gathered upon the scene.
There were Captain Rice and his company, from the uj^per end of Bear creek valley;
some men of Alcorn's company, a few volunteers from Jacksonville, and a delegation
from the Applegate. A much regretted event occurred during the day ; this was the
killing of Martin Angell, of Jacksonville, who set out to accompany the regulars to
Starr gulch, the scene of the siege. When two and a half miles from Jacksonville, on
the Crescent City road, Angell and Walker, who were about two hundred and fifty
yards in advance, were fired on by Indians concealed in the brush beside the road.
Angell was killed instantly, four Ijalls })assing througli his head and neck. Walker
was not hit, but escaped deatli narrowly. When the troops came up the Indians had
stripped the dead man and were just retreating into the brush. On the same day (Jan-
uary 2,) Charles W. Hull was killed on the divide l)etween Jackson and Jackass creeks,
his body being soon found by scouts. Deceased was hunting, but becoming separated
from his friends, was waylaid and murdered by Indians. These occurrences, happen-
ing SI) near to the pi-inci]iid lowu df llic whole region, made a very deep impression,

260 INDIAN WARS.

and there were those who apprehended the greatest dangers from the " red devils."
But happily these were not realized ; and the clamors of war died from the listening
ears in Jacksonville.

The history of the Applegate affair includes still another chapter. After it was
found that the Indians had made their escape, the regulars returned to the quiet and
seclusion of Fort Lane, while Major Bruce, who had arrived upon the field, set out
with portions of Rice's, Williamson's and Alcorn's companies, to follow up the wily
strategists who had so valiantly defended their positions, and so unexpectedly escaped.
Following the trail of the fleeing Indians to the west, the scouts came upon a single
Indian, who ran at the top of his speed directly to the Indian camp. The savages,
warned by the shouting of the pursued, j^repared for a fight and for quite a while
resisted that part of Bruce's command which came into action, killing one man, Wiley
Cash, of Alcorn's company, and seriously wounding Private Richardson, of O'Xeal's
company. Some ten or twelve horses, left unguarded by the whites, were taken by
the Indians, and several more were shot. This fight occurred on the twenty-first of
January, the locality being IMurphy's creek, tributary to the Applegate. Only twenty-
five men jjarticipated at first, but Lieutenant Armstrong came up with a small rein-
forcement, and after a most plucky fight succeeded in saving the lives of the detach-
ment. They were surrounded, and being sejDarated from the main body of the troops,
could not possibly have escaped but for the providential arrival. The total number of
Indians engaged under the leadership of John was probably about fifty.

The organization of the "southern army," as it was called, it will be recollected,
was begun by Colonel Jonh E. Ross. For some reason hard to make out, but certainly
not from any reasonable cause, the .command of the volunteers on Rogue river was,
by proclamation of the governor, dated October 20, 1855, placed in the hands of two
officers each with the rank of major, and possessing distinct commands. This notable
piece of strategy proved not to succeed well, owing to causes which anyone could have
foreseen, and after its ineffectiveness became apparent to the governor and his prime
minister, Adjutant-General Barnum, the two battalions were united and elevated to
the dignity of a regiment, and an election of colonel, lieutenant-colonel and majors
was ordered for December seventh. Robert L. Williams was chosen colonel. This
officer had attained a deserved reputation as an "Indian fighter," and was poj^ularly
supposed to be devoid of fear. His qualifications for the office consisted in a highly
developed hatred of Indians, a thorough knowledge of their tactics, and the liking of
his fellow-soldiers, who had elected him triumphantly over Bruce and Wilkinson, both
efficient commanders. W. J. Martin became lieutenant-colonel, whose command was
to be the "right column," which was a newly invented name for the northern battal-
ion. James Bruce remained as major, commanding the "left column" (southern
battalion), and Charles S. Drew continued in his place as adjutant. Colonel Williams'
regiment was officially styled the second regiment of the Orgeon mounted volunteers,
and consisted at the time of the colonel's election, of the companies of Captains Bailey,
Buoy, Keeney, Rice, O'Neal, Wilkinson, Alcorn, Gordon, Chapman and Bledsoe, the
aggregate on paper being 901 rank and file, but the effective force was much less.
This imjiosing force lay the greater part of the W'inter se23arately stationed at various
jioints wherever their services were required as guards. Occasionally something

INDIAN WARS. 201

occurred to break the stagnant routine of camp life, but not often. An Indian raid
might be exjjected, else the war -would have lost all attraction. The main body of the
army, lying in what is now Josephine county, centered at Yaniioy's as their head-
quarters. The right column remained about the southern boundary of Douglas county.

Almost the only interesting bit of information of a jocular character which survives
to this day is the memorable trip of Captain Keeuey from his post to the verdure-clad
plains of the Willamette. Captain Keeney was dissatisfied with guard duty. He hun-
gered for a sight of the hills of Lane county. He applied to Colonel Williams for a
furlough, but his commanding officer refused, saying no furloughs would be granted
until the last Indian in Southern Oregon was killed. The Captain persisted; the
Colonel told him to " go to grass." Captain Keeney returned to his command and
indignantly related the story of his wrongs, when a private suggested, "He probably
meant the Willamette; that's the only grass we've seen." The Captain, elated, said,
"Boys, shall we go to grass?" The answer was unanimously affirmative. They broke
camp, a hundred strong, arrived in Eoseburg December 27, and were in sight of their
own homes in time to wish their friends a happy new year. The joke was a good one;
but Lieutenant-Colonel William J. Martin failed to see it as such. He made it a part
of his official business to prefer charges against the home-sick farmers who found the
war so different from their joyous anticipations. This stern martinet accused Captain
Keeney of disobedience to orders, abandoning his position in face of the enemy, " uni-
form ungentlemanly conduct," and other like charges of formidable tenor. The gov-
ernor suspended him, but at a later date, as we perceive, the company with their cap-
tain were restored to all the rights and privileges pertaining to the most obedient,
steady and reliable of soldiers.

In this time of monotony and ennui charges and counter-charges (verbal) were fre-
quent. In February, Major Bruce incensed by the torpor of the volunteers, addressed
a communication to Governor Curry, preferring charges against Colonel Williams for
inactivity, failure to make public certain orders addressed by the Governor to the
troops, etc. Captains O'Neal, Eice, Alcorn, and Wilkinson, also appended their names
to these charges, whose outcome was the appointment of a brigadier general, to shoulder
the responsibility which Williams was unequal to. These charges were based on the
hitter's supposed partiality tow^ard a certain clique of speculators who were thought at
the time and since, to be using their influence to prolong the war in order to further
their pecuniary object. The whole subject of the war is entangkd throughout with
political and financial relations that are exceedingly difficult to unravel, and seem to
ill repay the investigator, but nevertheless are so intermingled in people's minds with
the cause of the war that it would be impossible to enter upon an examination without
giving offense to those whose opinions are already formed. These chapters are wi-itten
in the firm belief that hostihties with the aborigines were unavoidable, Avhich it requires
no very deep reasoning to make apparent. Wherever the Caucasian and the American
Indian have come in contact, war and bloodshed have resulted. Even in the remote
Eastern States, where tlie Pilgrim Fathers made head against opposing man and nature,
the red men were the first and their worst enemies ; and even their Puritanical prin-
ciples could not avoid a war of extermination. Then from analogy we declare that
the removal of the Indians from Southern Oregon was a nccessitv. We admit its

262 INDIAN WARS.

iiiexpedieiicy, while on sentimental grounds we commiserate the unhapj^y and unfor-
tunate humans whom ill-starred fate drove from a land which was theirs by the right
of long possession.

Sometime in the last days of January Colonel Williams removed the headquarters
of the army to Charles Drew's farm, known as Forest Dale, near Jacksonville, and
began the construction of barracks, stables and other buildings suitable for his pur-
poses. This measure proved an unfortunate one for him, as it created quite a burst of
indignation, being thought to be instigated by the owner of the land, whose interests
would be enhanced thereby. Very soon after J. K. Lamerick was appointed brigadier-
general, and displaced Williams in the chief command, the latter retaining his rank
of colonel of the second regiment, subordinate to Lamerick. The new selection does
not seem to have been a very happy one; it was made at a time when much dissatis-
faction existed against Lamerick, instigated, probably, by the speculative clique, and
to add to his embarrassments, the period of enlistment of many men had come to an
end, and these were receiving their discharges. The work of re-organizing the forces
was very difficult. Most of the former ca]) tains and subordinate officers were preju-
diced against the new general, and many of these declined to serve under him. The
inaction of the troops through the winter had given ample opportunity for political
manipulators and others to bias the minds of the troops as they chose, and those small
politicians looked upon the war as affording a satisfactory opportunity to urge their
claims for preferment.

By the middle of February two-thirds of the men had received their discharges,
and the diminution of the necessary- guards made it unsafe, we are told, for anybody
to travel alone. Indians were seen repeatedly at j^oints before deemed free from them,
and alarm was felt lest there be a repetition of the sad tragedies of the pi-eceding
autumn. In this state of affiiirs General Lamerick removed the headquarters of the
regiment again to Vannoy's, deeming that a more suitable place than the retired glades
of Forest Dale. In February the companies of Bailey, Keeney, Gordon and Lewis
received their final discharge, and those of O'Neal, Sheffield, Abel George, Bushey,
M. M. Williams, Wallan, Robertson and Barnes were enlisted. Of these, Abel
George and M. M. Williams had commanded companies attached to the ninth regi-
ment, in the preceding fall ; but being mustered out, along with numerous others, they
had entered the service again at the date named. It was thought that it would be
difficult to induce a sufficient number of men to enter the service, but these anticipa-
tions were met by the re-enlistment of nearly every man of the discharged companies,
and within a few days a sufficient force had been raised to meet all wants.

The weather continued unpropitious for military movements throughout the
months of February and March, and whatever strategical operations were then resolved
upon by General Lamerick were not carried out. The companies remained in winter
quarters, guarding suspected localities and taking care of themselves. No incidents of
much importance occurred during the time, the Indians remaining mostly at their old
haunts upon the lower river, until a-weary of waiting to be attacked. They made
disconnected attempts at robbery on sundry occasions, wherever arms or ammunition
were to be obtained; but there is no record of serious loss of life from these raids, until
the famous one of March twenty-fifth, when Evans' pack-train was robbed, and the
battle of Eight-dollar Mountain was fought.

CHAPTER XXXI.

THE SPRING CAMPAIGN.

Removal of the Table Rock Band Their Peaceful Character— A Flag of Truce— The Governor's Proclamation —
Matters in Illinois Valley— A Pack-train Taken by Indians-Battle of Eight-dollar Mountain— Election of
Officers of the Second Regiment— A Grand Campaign Resolved Upon— March to the Meadows— Arrival at
the Little Meadows- Reconnoissances in Force— The Enemy Found on Big Bar— A Plan of Attack— The
Indians Retire— The Array at the Bar— Fort Lamerick Built— The Army Goes Home— Results.

Subsequent to the events just detailed, a transaction of considerable importance
took place at the reservation across the river from Fort Lane. This was the removal
of Chief Sam's band to the coast reservation west of the Willamette valley. It was
mentioned in treating of the Indian outbreak of the ninth of October, that the Table
Rock band took no part in those proceedings. On the contrary, the members of that
band crossed the river to Fort Lane, and besought the protection of Captain Smith,
assuring him of their peaceful feelings and deprecating the ^^ossible and ever probable
violence of the white settlers, which, but for such protection, would surely have
liefallen them. During the succeeding months they remained under the immediate
care of Captain Smith and Agent Ambrose (successor of Culver), and gave not the
remotest cause for suspicion on the part of the whites. Chief Joe, celebrated as the
foremost member of the Rogue River tribe, was dead. For a long time he had Avielded
with his brother the divided authority of the tribe. He had been eminent in council;
he was not a despicable enemy in battle. He died at his lodge at the lower end of
l>ig Bar not long after the Lane treaty was signed- Notwithstanding the loss of their
wisest counsellor, the band remained true to the agreements made in 1853, and with a
striking devotion to their word, refrained entirely from giving aid or countenance to
the hostiles, in spite of the utmost inducements to a contrary course. The whole
annals of Indian wars have nothing more admirable than the truth and firmness with
which these sorely troubled yet constant barbarians maintained the honor of their
obligations. Finally, when the bureau of Indian affairs had decided to remove all the
natives from Southern Oregon, the Table Rock band — being with the Umpquas, the
only Indians accessible to authority — were sent to the jiermanent reservation about
Vuquina bay. Such was the state of public sentiment that a guard of one hundred
soldiers was deemed necessary in order to protect this little remnant on tKeir progress
northward. And this, notwithstanding the fact that by their friendship for the whites,
tliey had incurred the enmity of all the hostile Indians on Rogue river. The people
of the Willamette vallej'^, jealous of the removal of such celebrated warriors into their
neighborhood, and scarce understanding the situation of afiairs, called loudly for the
citizens to raise an armed force to resist their coming, and exterminate them; but the
excitement soon calmed, and the Indians found a final home by the shores of the
Pacific.

264 INDIAN WARS.

Equally illustrative of the tone of public feeling, was a circumstance which hap-
pened about the middle of February, a little time subsequent to the departure of the
Table Eock band. At this time Chiefs Limpj and George, with about thirty warriors
well armed, and mounted on horses, some of which carried two braves and others
three, came up from the Meadows carrying flags of truce, and camped on the reserva-
tion opposite Fort Lane. They sent a messenger to Captain Smith to announce their
arrival and desire for a talk. Their object was not to make peace, but to secure the
surrender of some squaws who were in the hands of the agent. The news of their
arrival got abroad instantly, and the various volunteer companies assembled at Forest
Dale in haste, no one yet understanding the circumstances, but all inquiring as to the
purpose of the invasion. Messengers went to the fort and were informed that the
regulars would not allow the Indians to be molested in consequence of their coming
under a flag of truce, as these same Indians had respected that symbol on a certain
occasion. The law of nations and the regular army prevailed in spite of threat, and
the savages returned unmolested to their lair. The Sentinel published a fiery editorial
against the United States troops, and refused to be pacified. "We are informed by
Major Bruce that Captain Smith said that if anyone fired upon the Indians, he would
return the fire. We would ask if our citizen soldiery are to be intimidated by the
threat of any one from avenging the innocent blood that these savages have caused to
flow?" This sort of rhetoric did the Indians no hurt; but it proved very expensive to
those who furnished army supplies.

Returning to our main subject, we find that the Illinois Indians, previously at the
Indian encampment at the Meadows on Rogue river, had become tired of the monotony
of life sufficiently to induce them to make trips to their old hunting grounds in search
of plunder, and excitement. On the twelfth of February they killed John Guess in
his field on Deer creek, leaving him dead in the furrow. On the morning of March
24, news came to Vannoy's that the enemy had ambushed and killed two travelers,
Wright,Vannoy's partner, and Private Olney, of O'Neal's company, who were encamj^ed
at the foot of Eight-dollar mountain, and that the attacking party had at a later hour
met another party consisting of five men, and mortally wounded John Davis. Orders
Avere at once sent by Major Bruce to the various companies of his battalion to rej^air
instantly to Fort Yannoy. Captain Hugh O'Neal, who with his company was nearest
to the scene of action, had immediately set out for Hays' ranch, or Fort Hays, as it was
called. Hoping to reach there before the Indians could do so, as that post had but few
defenders. A sharp skirmish ensued when within a few hundred yai'ds of the post and
private Caldwell was mortally wounded, and some jjack mules loaded with provisions
etc., were taken by the Indians, who besieged the fort after the volunteers had taken
refuge within it. The enemy abandoned the ground, during the night, and returning
along the road southward, met and attacked Evans' pack-train which was coming from
Crescent City. They killed a Mexican 2:)acker, and wounded "Big Dave." Evans
escaped to Reeves' farm, but the mules and packs were all captured by the marauders,
who gained a large amount of ammunition by the capture. On receiving the news of
this late attack, Lieutenant-Colonel W. W. Chapman (recently elected to that office)
ordered Major Bruce to attack the enemy with all his available force. There were per-
haps ] 25 men who proceeded under the Major's orders to the scene of Evans' misfortune.

.i

INDIAN WAES. 265

The foremost of these engaged the enemy while yet the remainder were dismounting.
All horses were left at the foot of the hill which it was necessary to ascend to find the
enemy ; and a long line of battle, reaching several hundred yards along the side of
the mountain, was formed and the troops advanced up the rise. Private Collins led
the way up but was shot dead when near the top, falling in the road. John McCarty
was also shot, dying soon after, and Private Phillips was mortally wounded. Abel
George's men dismounted, and tying their horses to a fence, started up hill on the side
next Deer creek, intending to outflank the Indians, while Captain M. M. Williams
engaged them in front, assisted by members of Alcorn, Rice's (Miller's) and other
companies. Major Bruce with about fifty men kept along the road to the place where
Collins fell. The battle was now a lively one ; the rattle of rifles and revolvers was
almost continuous, and frequent attempts were made by each party to charge the other-
All sought cover, and there was little chance for life for the man who neglected thus to
protect himself. At this interesting juncture a shout was raised that the Indians were
making off" with the horses, left at the foot of the hill. A number of the savages, spy-
ing the condition of affairs ran hastily to the spot and mounting some and leading
others, escaped with some fifteen of the animals belonging to Abel George's Yreka
company.

The most of the fighting for a time was done by M. M. Williams and about a score
of his bravest men, who stood their ground valiantly, and only retreated when the
Indians had nearly or quite surrounded them. Alcorn's men and others fought well,
also, but the general applause was marred by the conduct of a great many who either
ran away during the fight, or else could not be brought into it at all. Over 200 men
were within sound of the firing, but not one half that number took any part in the fight,
and probably not over fifty engaged in it with energy and resolution. A hundred or
more of the readiest fighters ever known among the Indians of this continent held with
determination the hill and the thick woods and successfully barred the way. Against
this force the volunteers effected nothing. Shortly they began to retire, and gaining
the base of the hill, they mounted and returned to Fort Hays, hardly yet sensible of a
defeat. The Indians withdrew in their characteristic manner and hostilities for the
time were over.

Lieutenant-Colonel Chapman now established a jjermanent camp at Fort Hays,
making it the headquarters of the companies of Alcorn, George, O'Neal, Wilkinson
and Williams, and of himself. Major Bruce and Regimental Surgeon Douthitt.

On the eighteenth of March, 1856, an election was held in the various camps of the
second regiment, and John Kelsey became colonel of the regiment in place of Williams,
W. W. Chapman succeeded W. J. Martin as lieutenant colonel, and James Bruce and
W. L. Latshaw were elected majors of the two battalions. The respective positions of
the battalions remained unchanged or nearly so, that of Bruce being stationed in the
Illinois and Rogue river valleys, while that of Latshaw occupied various posts in the
southern part of Douglas county, notably Fort Sheffield, so-called, on Cow creek, a
post in Camas valley, Fort Leland, on Grave or Leland creek, Fort Relief and other
points considered to be of strategical importance. The total force of the second regi-
ment, as appears by the rolls, was 807 non-commissioned officers and men, commanded
by fifty-one commissioned officers inclusive of the staff".

266 INDIAN WAES.

With a portion of tiiis force General Lamerick set out in April for an active cam-
paign to the Big Meadows, on Rogue river, then recognized as the rallying point and
base of supj^lies of the entire horde of hostiles, known to number at least 250 and
popularly supposed to be twice as numerous. Having collected all his available force
at the mouth of the Applegate, the General appointed a day of parade, and fixed upon
the fourteenth of April as the day for setting out upon the proposed expedition. On
the morning of that day the army set out, under the immediate command of Lieuten-
ant Colonel Chajiman, who proceeded in advance with one hundred men, guided by
the scouts of Lewis and Bushey. A very long pack-train came next, and Major Bruce
brought up the rear with the remaining volunteers. A herd of beef cattle was driven
along as a part of the commissariat, to be drawn upon as occasion required, and ample
provision had been made for anticipated emergencies, even to supplying a couple of
canvas boats, portable and collapsable, to be used in crossing the liver. Shovels for
constructing roads were supplied, and twenty-five days' rations were taken, besides 100
rounds of ammunition for each soldier. General Lamerick announced his intention
to remain out until the Indians were completely conquered, or until the army had to
return for provisions.

The southern battalion marched down the south side of Rogue river, and in two
or three days reached Peavine mountain, some twelve miles from the Little Meadows
of Rogue river, the objective point of Colonel Kelsey's command. This latter
division fitted out at Fort Leland, on Grave creek, and set out on or about the seven-
teenth of April and arrived safely at their destination within two or three days, having
come via Whiskey creek. No enemy was met upon the route but shortly after halting
at the end of their march the pickets were fired upon by concealed Indians, whom a
diligent search failed to discover. The country over which each detachment passed
was thoroughly " scoured" by large numbers of scouts, and Indian " sign" in abundance
was found, but the wily savages retired secretly before the army, and made no stand.
On April twenty-seventh, three men, McDonald, Harkness, and Waggoner, express
riders between Lamerick's command and Fort Leland, were attacked by Indians at
Whiskey creek, and Harkness, a partner of James Twogood, in the Leland Creek House
(otherwise called the Grave Creek House), was killed. His body was found horribly
mutilated.

Caj)tain Barnes, of the spy company, reconnoitered during the halt at the Little
Meadows, and found the Indians in large numbers, scattered in the rough, mountainous
and brushy country between the camp and the Big Meadows, which lie below the
Little Meadows, and also the north side of the river. Major Bruce being communi-
cated with, his battalion was ordered up, and he joined forces with Colonel Kelsey, the
total force gathered there being 535 ofiicers and men. The camjj was on a high bench
or terrace, two miles north of the river and a thousand feet above it. A breastwork of
pine trees was formed, enclosing a space sufficient for camping jJurposes, and there
being an abundance of grass and water near, the locality was well adapted for that
purpose. The Indian encampment was found to be on a large bar on the south side of
the river and some three miles below. The Big Meadows were deserted by them, and
the intervening country contained none except those doing duty as scouts. On the
twenty-third Colonel Kelsey with 150 men made a reconnoissance towai'd a suspected

I

INDIAN WARS. 2B7

point, but without results, aud on the same day Major Bruce at the head of a like
force, started to descend the slope toward the bar. At a distance of a mile from camp
a creek was arrived at, beyond which were collected a considerable number of Indians,
but these being beyond rifle range, and Major Bruce's instructions not allowing him to
attack, no fighting was done, and the detachment having plainly seen the Indian
village on the bar, returned to camp. During the following days until the twenty-
seventh, considerable reconnoitering was done, aud a brush with the enemy took place,
without result. The Indians were thought to number several hundred, including
women and children, and were found to be as actively employed in scouting as were
the whites themselves.

At a council of war ordered by General Lamerick it was resolved to attack the
enemy in his stronghold on the bar; and to do this effectually and at the same time
prevent the Indians from escaping over the mountains in their rear. Major Bruce was
ordered to cross to the south side of the river and march to a point where they could
be intercepted in case of flight. The other battalion under Colonel Kelsey in person
was to proceed westward from the encampment, and gaining the summits opposite the
Indians' position, was then to march down the steep declivity directly in their front
and attack them from across the river. The southern battalion duly arrived at the
point where they were to cross, but the two canvas boats being launched, the men
declined to enter them, alleging that the Indians might easily sink them by rifle shots,
or failing in that, might massacre the few who would be able to land. Major Bruce's
authority was insufficient to compel them to obedience, and the plan was abandoned.
It does not appear that any Indians had been seen by the battalion on their march to
the river, nor does it seem likely that any considerable number of them, if any, were
in the neighborhood, their total force probably having been at that hour at their
rendezvous on the bar, three miles below. This is a fair example of the difficulties
met with by the officers at that time. Such a state of insubordination prevailed that
it rendered all plans nugatory. Every priv.ate thought himself entitled to reason upon
his superior officer's commands, and to refuse compliance if they seemed injudicious.
Under such circumstances it is no wonder that such a large force accomplished so
little.

Major Bruce being compelled to remain on the north side of the I'iver, concluded to
move down stream and join Colonel Kelsey at the bar. Meanwhile, this commander had
reached a point on the declivity nearly opposite his objective point, and started directly
down hill, following a ridge which afforded comparatively little obstruction to his
advance. In this he was much favored by a heavy fog which rested upon the hills,
utterly obscuring his every movement from the Indians. Thus he was enabled to
arrive nearly at the river before they discovered his whereabouts. The detachment
was now formed in order of battle, and all rushed down and took position on the bank
of the river facing the Indian encampment on the bar, and opened a continuous fire
up:)n the enemy. Tiie savages were thi-own into confusion by the sudden attack, and
did not return the fire for some time. The women and children, the former carrying
heavy packs, soon left the camp and passed up the hill toward the Illinois river, while
the greater part of the males sought shelter in tlie edge of the fir woods behind their
encauipmi'at, and watched the m'jvements of the whites. 3Iajor Bruce arrived with

268 INDIAN WAES.

his command, and taking a position on the left of the northern battalion, began firing
at the enemy, who, however, were in positions of comparative safety. Desultory and
ineffectual firing was kept up all day, but no means of crossing the river being at
hand, nothing could be done to complete the victory. It is supposed that quite a
number of Indians were killed, while the only loss to the whites was the severe
wounding of Elias Mercer, of Wilkinson's company, who, on being removed U\ Eose-
burg, died upon the way. John Henry Clifte also sustained a severe wound, but
recovered.

In the evening the whole force went into camp at the Big Meadows, on the north
side of the river and six miles below the former camp. On the following morning
Colonel Kelsey and Major Latshaw with 150 men went to a point on the river two miles
below^ the bar, with the expectation of crossing to the south side and " scouring " the
country thereabouts. At the same time Lieutenant-Colonel Chapman with 100 men
marched to the battle-ground of the previous day to engage the enemy if they were still
there, with the object of diverting their attention from the movement below. The
former command found Indians scattered along the shore, who showed fight and "moved
further into the brush and set up a considerable hallowing," consequently the detach-
ment did not cross. The casualties of the day were, as might be judged, very light. A
private of Sheffield's company was wounded, and one or two Indians were thought to
be hit, but the latter is very doubtful. About twelve o'clock the Indians "withdrew
beyond range of our guns, and deeming it impracticable to cross the river at this point
we drew off the command and returned to camj)." Lieutenant-Colonel Chapman had
found no Indians at the bar, so he returned, probably also thinking it impracticable to
cross. Major Bruce had " scoured " in the direction of John Mule creek with 100 men
and he also returned unharmed.

On the twenty-ninth Captain Crouch, with his company, left for Roseburg, via.
Camas valley, to escort the wounded to the hospital. The remainder of the regiment
broke camp and occupied the bar where Jhe Indian encampment had stood, and met
with no resistance in so doing. The scouts reported that the Indians had all left the
vicinity and that the remains of seventy -five camp-fires existed on the mountain side
above the bar, making the spot where they encamped on the night following Colonel
Kelsey's attack. On the thirteenth the command remained at the bar on account of
bad weather, and Captain Lewis' spies reported that the Indians had gone down the
river. "The provisions now being nearly exhausted, and the weather continuing so
unfavorable, it was considered impracticable to follow the enemy over the rough ground
before us, which was covered with snow, and many of the soldiers were already nearly
barefooted." On the first of May, the troops re-crossed the river, Captains George and
Bushey proceeded immediately to Grave creek, while the rest camped at the Big Mead-
ows, at a place selected as the site of a permanent fort. Williams, Wilkinson, Keith,
Blakely and Barnes' companies were detailed to remain there, the remaining com-
panies setting out for home the next day. Captains Sheffield and Noland with their
men went to Roseburg via. Camas valley, and Robertson, Wallan, Miller (Rice's),
O'Neal, Alcorn and Lewis' companies marched to Fort Leland, the headquarters of
the northern battalion, Avhich they reached on the fourth of May.

INDIAN WAES. 209

If we sum up the fruits of this, the Second Meadows Campaign, we shall find that
they equal those of the first. To descend to details, we find that the army " scoured "
a large tract of wild country, consumed twenty-five days' rations in two weeks, drove
the Indians from their place on the har to another place in some unknown region, and
returned to civilization. It is useless to enter into any long exjilanations of why such
slight results were attained. It must have been partly the insubordination of the troops,
who while nominally under the command of their general, colonel, lieutenant-colonel,
four majors and unlimited captains and lieutenants, domineered shamefully over these
officers and acted their own j^leasure in times of emergency. It is difficult to under-
stand why these individuals retained their commands under such discouraging circum-
stances, and why their own self-respect did not impel them to quit their charges in dis-
gust. Some curious and amusing incidents, whose record has come down to us, will
illustrate the spirit of insubordination which so injured the army's usefulness. After
General Lamerick had planned the fight at the Meadows and had given Major Bruce
the order to cross the. river, one of the latter's men said, "Look here. Gen 'ral; this ain't
gwine ter do. Jest as sure as we cross thar, some of us will git hit. Don't yer know
we got one man killed tryin' ter cross thar afore?" Eather more encouraging was a
reply to one of Major Bruce's commands to charge, "Yes, We say charge, and we'll
chalk you out a damned good charge, Major!" There is no question of the individual
bravery of those men. As expressed by one who was among them — a coward had no
chance. A more daring set could not have existed than these miners and settlers.
Their experience had made them the most self-reliant men that the world contained.
But the peculiar circumstances surrounding them, the fact of their ofiicers being raised
from the ranks and being consequently regarded as no better than anybodv else,
wonderfully impaired their eflficiency and reliability.

CHAPTER XXXII.

THE WAR IN CURRY COUNTY.

Character of the Indians— Tribal Designation— Numbsr— Incidents— Coquille Massacre — Killing: of Buford, Haw-
kins and O'Brien— The Natives Remain Peaceable— Captain Poland and His Company— Character of Enos—
Massacre at Gald Baach— The Survivors Take Refuge in a Fort— Other Casualties— Seeking for Help— The
Crescent City Company— Views of General Woal- A Military Campaig;n Planned— Arrival of Regular Troops
Captain Smith Descends the River— Actions With the Indians— Volunteer Companies.

Having now broug-lit the detail of events down to the end of the second meadows
campaign, it will be necessary to retrograde in order that a connected account of
of affairs in a totally distinct region may be given, and their bearing ujjon the main
features of our story be understood. Tlie coast of Curry county had become known to
Americans through the energetic explorations of Captain Tichenor and others in
1850 and 1851. The gold-bearing sand along the beaches was examined a few years
later, and during the half-dozen years next following its discovery the region became
a mining locality of considerable importance. Several hundred miners had, by the
fall of 1855, gathered near the mouth of Rogue river, and together with the traders
and others incidental to mining communities, made up a considerable 2^oi3ulation.
These people lived mainly at the mouth of Rogue river, and held communication with
the outer world by way of San Francisco, accessible by steam and sailing vessels, and
with Crescent City by means of a much traveled road along the coast southward. The
mouth of Rogue river is sixty-one miles north of Crescent City, Pistol river is twelve
miles south of Rogue river, and Chetco, nearly upon the California state line, is
twenty-five miles south. Some thirty miles north of the Rogue river is Port Orford,
celebrated as the place where the first landing and settlement upon this portion of
the coast was made, and where the first people to land sustained a memorable siege
by Indians. Port Orford was, during the Indian wars, a military j^ost of the United
States army. No communication, or scarcely any, was carried on along the coast
northward from Carry county, nor was it considered accessible from the eastward.
Rough and impassable ranges of heavily wooded mountains cover almost the entire
surface of the country and approach so near to the coast as to almost cut off travel by
the sea shore. On the east these mountains penetrate to the Illinois, the Applegate
and Cow creek. Among their defiles meander streams to whose beds the sunlight
never penetrates. Steep hillsides and bushy canyons block the path of the adventur-
ous explorer who would fain force his way among them, and roaring streams, swollen
by winter's rains to an impassable height, impede the progress of man or animal.
Among these mountains roamed the elk, deer, bear and smaller game in profusion.
In the open glades and by the sides of the cool streams grew the salmon berry, and
many edible roots. In such a region existence was an easily solved problem, and a
numerous race of Indians gave proof of its solution.

INDIAN WARS. 271

Here resided the To-to-tin, a numerous peojile, relatetl to the Rogue Rivers
and Klamaths. Their northern limits were at Coos bay ; toward the south tliey reached
Chetco. They were divided into twelve bands, of whom eight lived along the coast,
being the Yasomah, at the mouth of the Coquille ; the Quah-to-mah, on Flores creek ;
Sixes (first called Shix) river and Port Orford ; the Co-sut-hen-tan, near the Three
Sisters ; the Eu-qu-ach-ees, along the coast from Port Orford to Rogue river ; the Tah-
shutes, southward of the river ; next the Chet-less-un-tun, or Pistol Rivers, about the
mouth of that stream ; the Wish-te-not-ins south of the Pistol Rivers, and north of
the Chetcoes (Che-at-tee), who were the southernmost tribe. On Rogue river were
the To-to-tins, who gave their name to the whole tribe ; the Mack-a-no-tins lived
above, and the Shista-koos-tees still higher up stream, or about the mouth[of the
Illinois. At the forks of the Coquille dwelt the Cho-cre-ten-tan band. All these
divisions were small ; the Chetcoes, the most numerous, numbering but 242 in the sum-
mer of 1854, while the total number of Coast Indians was 1230, of whom 448 were
men.

On the resignation of Judge Skinner in 1853, Samuel H. Culver became Indian
agent for Southern Oregon, and resided for a part of the time at Port Orford. The
government had decided upon the removal of the To-to-tin tribe to a reservation, but
with the usual delay of governmental matters this was not carried out in time to avoid
the great catastrophe. In 1854 Isaiah L. Parrish became agent and made the enumer-
ation of the Coast Indians, whence the above statistics are taken. There is nothing
distinctive or peculiar about the intercourse of these people with the whites who came
into the country ; they received the usual treatment accorded the Indian by the Cau-
casian. With rather more than ordinary patience and humility they endured the
encroachments of the higher civilization, and lived on calmly in their smoky hovels,
spearing the salmon and gathering mussels, until their outbreak in 1856. From a
long list the following incidents have been extracted, to show whatever they may of
the situation of affairs along the coast previous to that date. The report of the com-
missioner of Indian affairs for 1854, states that on or about the fifteenth of February,
1854, one Miller, with several accomplices from Smith river, killed fifteen Chetcoes,
residing at the mouth of the river of that name, because these Indians interfered with
the profits of a ferry which he was running. They transferred white passengers in
their canoes, thus competing in a manner unacceptable to Miller. By another source
we are told that Miller was subsequently indicted for the killing and sentenced to two
years in the penitentiary. But this assertion is too wildly imin-obable for belief. It
had no precedent, and has no subsequent counterpart. The only ease in our knowl-
edge that liears a resemblance was that of a white man named Thomjjson, who was
indicted for murdering an Indian on Galice creek some time in 1854. The defendant
made his escape before his case came to ti'ial and left the country.

On a previous page in this book the " Coquille massacre" was referred to. This
was the work of forty miners and others living near the mouth of the Coquille, who
killed sixteen Indians who were accused of having become " insolent" to the whites,
and specifically of having said " God damn American" in the presence and contrary
to the dignity of a white citizen of this great republic — of having fired a shot at a
crowd of whites — of cutting a ferry-boat rope — of riding a white man's hoi-se without

272 INDIAN WARS.

permission — and finally, of having refused to explain these insolent actions. On page
272 and following, of the Indian commissioner's report for 1854, may be found
descriptions of the subsequent proceedings of the whites, wherein they demolished an
Indian village, killed sixteen jDcrsons, including a squaw and an infant, and wounded
several more. These statements having been given by Abbott, leader of the whites,
no room is left for cavil.

Another incident of imjjortance has a termination somewhat different from the
ordinary tale, but is itself very lamentable in its results. On August 26, 1855, James
Buford, a miner living at the mouth of Kogue river, became involved in a quarrel
with an Indian, and was shot by the latter, the bullet taking effect in Buford's shoul-
der. The native was arrested and brought before a justice of the peace, and after a
partial examination it Avas resolved to remove him for the night to the council ground,
and afterwards to Port Orford. There being a considerable number of Indians there-
abouts, a squad of United States troops was detailed for the service of guarding the
prisoner, who was taken in a large canoe with his guard. Shortly, another canoe ran
alongside in the semi-darkness, and from it Buford and two friends, Hawkins and
O'Brien, fired and killed the pris3-:er and an Indian who was paddling. Instantly
the soldiers returned the fire, killing two and mortally wounding the other assailant,
who retained only sufficient strength to swim ashore, where he died upon the bank.
This incident, we need not add, created a great deal of excitement, and resulted in a
war of words against the army which could so quickly take the side of the savages,
and leave unavenged the wrongs they committed upon the whites. Nevertheless, the
army was, from the nature of things, opposed to the whites, although they could not be
said to favor the Indians. Departmental instructions leave the officer commanding a
military post no option regarding the treatment of either savage or civilized persons,
but require him to interpose to restrain, on the one hand, the violence of the nation's
aboriginal wards, and on the other to resist the action of the whites who may interfere
unlawfully with them. After the uprising of the Interior Indians under John, Limpy
and other chiefs, the Coast Indians were solicited to join in the warfare against the
whites, but the sentiment of the larger portion was for peace, and the overtures of those
chiefs were rejected. The Buford affair may be allowed to have contributed somewhat
to produce the hostilities which followed in the spring of 1856, but still greater weight is
probably to be attached to the success of the malcontents on tlie river above in resist-
ing the efforts of their opponents who sought to conquer them. During the early part
of the winter of 1855-6 symptoms of increasing discontent were noticed among the
natives, and the condition of affairs was pronounced grave enough to warrant immedi-
ate measures being taken to preserve peace. An Indian agent for the locality at the
mouth of the river was considered indispensible, and Ben Wright, the celebrated
Indian fighter, who had gained a vast experience in the management of the savages,
and who had sustained intimate domestic relations with various tribes, was, at the
solicitation of certain people of Yreka and elsewhere, appointed to that post as suc-
cessor to Mr. Parrish, by Joel Palmer, superintendent of Indian affairs for Oregon.
Wright began his ministrations under favorable auspices and for a time everything
promised security for the whites, whose fears were not of the most serious cast. The
military arm was present in the person of Brevet-Major Reynolds, U. S. A., who, with

.i^W; -^i

Rock Cut.one and one half miles north of TableRock
O&C.R.R.

INDIAN WARS. 273

his company of the third artillery, was stationed at Port Orford, the ])ost bearing the
official designation of Fort Orford. This force, though too small to be of much service
in time of a real outbreak, still served to maintain order as between the whites and
natives, and was much relied upon by the infant colony so far away from effective
help, and so completely at the mercy of the savages. The settlers, of course, were
atniost entirely men in the prime of life; very few women and children had yet arrived
in the country — a jjeculiarly fortunate circumstance as we shall see. Only two or
three white families were to be found at the settlement at the mouth of the river,
called Gold Beach, but many miners abode in small cabins scattered along the banks
of that stream for several miles upwards from the mouth, and along the sea-coast north
and south, but mainly located near the present site of EUeusburg. Three miles up
the river was Big Flat, where a considerable settlement had been formed, and some
land brought under cultivation.

Something had been done in the way of protection against possible outbreaks by
the formation of a small company of volunteers who were under the command of Cap-
tain Poland. This company numbered thirty-three men and had been called out by
the agent and stationed at the Big Bend, some fifteen miles up the river, where they
served to separate the hostiles above from the ^^eaceful Indians below. Here they had
a strongly fortified post and were deemed secure from defeat or capture. These ti-oops
maintained their station until about the first of February, 1856, when they abandoned
it and joined the main body of citizens at Gold Beach. Wright; observing the growing
discontent of the natives at this time, put forth every effort to induce them to go peace-
ably on to the temporary reservation at Port Orford, where they would be safe from the
attack of ill-disposed whites and the solicitations of hostile Indians. It was still thought^
notwithstanding hints of an outbreak, that the Indians about the mouth of the river
would be induced to submit to the authority of the superintendent and would eventu-
ally, without trouble or bloodshed, be removed to some distant reservation. It has
always been sujiposed that it was owing to the intriguing of one man that this effect
was not brought about. This man was an Indian of some eastern tribe — Canadian, it
was said — and had been with Fren\ont on his last expedition ten years before. He pos-
sessed great experience of savage warfare and savage craft and duplicity, of which latter
qualities he was certainly a master. Enos, called by the Indians Acnes, had become a
confident of Wright's to the extent of knowing, it is said, all his plans for the peaceful
subjugation of the Indians. We must confess Ben Wright changed from what fact
and tradition have described him, if instead of meditating a mighty coup-de-maia to
destroy them, he relied upon negotiations, squaws' enticements and the persuasions of
an Indian renegrade to accomplish what his arms alone had been want to do. Enos,
nominally for Wright, constantly entered the Indian camps, in one of which his wife
dwelt; and laid with the braves of these coast tribes a far-reaching plan to destroy
utterly and beyond regeneration the small colony of whites; and this done, to join the
bands of savages who were waging war along the up2:»er reaches of the Rogue, and at
one fell swooiJ to defeat and drive from the country the invaders who so harrowed the
Indian soul. Thus large they say his plan was ; but not larger, doubtless, than those
of other savages, but moi'e nearly being executed than most otliers. because laid by a
brain that could contrive and a disposition that made bloody deeds and violcuce like

274 INDIAN WAES.

balm to his feelings. Many a dangerous and rough enemy the whites had in Southei'u
Oregon, but none more dangerous nor capable than this i^lanning and contriving, smil-
ing and hating foreign Indian, whose treachery cost the sea-cost colony many valuable
lives and nearly its whole material wealth.

The first step in Enos' portentious plan was to slaughter Wright and the settlers
along the coast. On the evening of February 22, having completed his arrangements,
Enos with a sufficient force of his Indians fell upon the scattered settlement at the south
side of the mouth of the river, and finding Agent Wright alone in his cabin, entered
it seen but unsuspected by him, and with an axe or club slaughtered this hero of a
hundred bloody. fights. So died perhaps the greatest of the Indian fighters whom this
coast ever knew. Concluding this villainy the Indians sought new victims, and during
the night killed mercilessly, with shot or blows, twenty-four or twenty-five persons, of
whom the list is here presented, as given by various authorities: Captain Ben Wright,
Captain John Poland, John Geisel and three children, Joseph Seroc and two children,
J. H. Braun, E. W. Howe, Barney Castle, George McClusky, Patrick McCollough,
Samuel Heudrick, W. K. Tullus, Joseph W^agoner, Seaman, Lorenzo Warner, George
Reed, John Idles, Martin Reed, Henry Lawrence Guy C. Holcomb and Joseph
Wilkinson. Three prisoners they took — Mrs. Geisel and her remaining children Mary
and Annie, the three of whom, after suffering the worst hardships at the hands of the
Indians, were delivered from them at a later date, and now live to recount witli tears
the story of their bereavement and captivity.

A large portion of the inhabitants thereabouts had gathered on that fateful night
at the Big Flat to attend a dance given there, and so failed of death ; and on
the morrow these set out for the ransacked village, and arriving there found that
the Indians had gone, leaving the fearful remains of the butchery. The corpses were
buried; and the remaining poj^ulation, numbering perhaps 130 men, scantily sujjplied
with fire-arms and jjrovisions, hastened to the north bank of the river, and sought
protection in a fort, so-called, which quite providentially stood there, having been con-
structed previously by some whites in anticipation of such need. Here the survivors
gathered and for a time sustained a state of siege with the added horrors of an immi-
nent death by starvation. Their only communication from without was by means
of two small coasting schooners which made occasional trips to Port Orford or
Crescent City. At the former place lay Major Reynolds with a force scarcely suffi-
cient to maintain order ; and when the messengers from Gold Beach arrived and
told their direful tale, the citizens of the post with their families and most valuable
goods took refuge at the barracks, whence the commander refused to move. He
advised an entire abandonment of the settlement at Gold Beach, but as the Indians
surrounded it and commanded all approaches by land, it was obviously impossible
for the beleaguered citizens to escape, unless by sea, and that recourse was also cut
off. Meantime the now aroused savages were not idle. Every dwelling and every
piece of property of whatever description that fire could touch was destroyed. The
country was devastated utterly, and only the station of Port Orford remained inhab-
ited, if we except the fort at the mouth of the river. The buildings at Gold Beach
were all burned, and an estimate of the property destroyed along the coast fixes the
damage at |125,000. Subsequent to the first attack a number of other persons were

INDIAN WARS. 275

killed by the ludiaus, these being Henry BuUen, L. W. Oliver, Daniel Richardson,
Adolf Schuioldt, Oliver Cautwell, Stephen Taylor, and George Trickey. By an
unhappy chance H. I. Gerow, merchant ; John O'Brien, miner ; Sylvester Long,
farmer; AVilliam Thompson and Richard Gay, boatmen, and Felix McCue, were
drowned in the breakers opposite the fort, while bringing aitl and provisions fi'om
Port Orford.

At the same time the messenger proceeded to Port Orford application was made
to Captain Jones of the regular army, who was stationed at Crescent City, and this
officer offered the services of twenty-five troops, and except for General Wool's com-
mands, would have instantly taken the field with that small force and marched to the
assistance of the besieged citizens. But as we shall see a concerted movement against
the Indians was about to be made wherein the scattered companies of regulars were
each to bear a part. The citizens of Crescent City quickly organized a company of
men, of whom G. H. Abbott was chosen cajitain ; T. Crook, first lieutenant, and C.
Tuttle, second lieutenant; and these made preparations for a campaign against the
Indians and were of much use in the hostilities which followed. The Crescent City
people appealed to the troops in arms in Jackson county, and then mostly lying inac-
tive at Vannoys', Fort Hays, Forest Dale, and other places, for assistance in putting
down this new uprising and saving the lives of the coast people, but without effect,
since the officers feared the consequences that might follow a withdrawal of any troops
from the valley.

The operations of the regular army which resulted in freeing Curry county from
the presence of hostile Indians, are thus alluded to by Captain Cram. On the ninth
of November, 1855, General John E. Wool, in command of the military department
of the Pacific, while on his way to the Yakima country where war had broken out,
arrived at Crescent City, and there learned of the existence of hostilities in Southern
Oregon, of the formation of the "southern army" of volunteers, and of the fight at
Hungry hill. Deeming the volunteers, with the assistance of the few regulars at
Forts Lane and Jones, sufficient for the occasion, and there being no regular troops
available for service in this district, General Wool gave himself no further concern
about the matter, being averse to winter campaigns. General Wool's presence in
Southern Oregon, says Caj^tain Cram, was exceedingly opportune. He was enabled
to judge of the measures necessary to be taken by his own command, and acting upon
the basis of humanity for the Indians and with a due regard for the safety of the settle-
ments, he instructed commanders of posts to receive and protect such friendly Indians
as chose to come in and remain at the military posts. These were the precautions
taken in consequence of "a due regard for the safety of the settlements:" Captain
Jones, who was posted with his company of fifty men at Fort Humboldt, received
orders some time during the war to proceed to Crescent City and "jn-otect all supplies
and [)ublic property, also to guard the friendly Indians gathered there by the superin-
tendent of Indian affairs in Oregon;" and Major Reynolds with his company of just
twenty-six artillerymen was ordered to remain at Fort Orford, ninety miles above
Crescent City and thirty miles from Gold Beach, the spot where the Indians' blows
must soonest fall, and only distant some forty or less miles from the common rendez-
vous of iill the hostilcs. It would require no generalship to ascertain the unprotected

276 INDIAN WAES.

state of the settlements along the coast. Absolutely no protection, military or natni'al,
existed for the community at Gold Beach, excepting that these peoi^le had raised, as
before mentioned, a small company, part of whom were stationed at the big bend of
Rogue river, some fifteen miles aboye its mouth and a strategic point, where they acted
as a guard to prevent the hostiles commanded by John, Limpy and other chiefs from
communicating with or annoying the Indians of Gold Beach district, as before men-
tioned. Had those indomitable warriors been disposed to attack the coast people, there
was absolutely no power at hand cajDable of making a successful resistance. The
garrison at Big Bend would have been crushed, the friendly Indians scattered, and
scenes of blood enacted similar to those we have recounted. Why the hostile Indians
made no such attempt is a subject for speculation; certainly the regular army did
nothing to prevent it. When spring came, General Wool, "being previously well
advised as to the topography of the district and of the probable positions of the
Indians," and having been informed of the imminent danger of the coast settlements,
proceeded, leisurely enough, to "put in effect a plan for terminating the Rogue river
war by United States trooj)S." Which war he proposed to terminate thus is not
known ; but it is plain that two separate wars had gone on during the weeks succeed-
ing the "Ben Wright Massacre" — the one being by the Co-ast Indians against the coast
colony, the other by John and Limj^y and their bands against the volunteers of the
southern army. From and after the arrival of the United States troops at the mouth
of the Rogue, we can only recognize a single contest, the exigencies of war having
brought about an alliance of the savages, and the mutual though reluctant co-opera-
tion of the regulars and volunteers.

The general's plan is thus outlined in reports of the war department : A detach-
ment of one hundred men had been sent from Fort Lane to guard Sam's band to the
coast reservation, which left a very small number there for oifensive operations. Cap-
tain Augur's company of the fourth infantry was ordered down from A^ancouver to
Fort Orford to reinforce Major Reynolds, which "would afford troops enough to pro-
tect the friendly Indians and public stores collected there, and leave another small
force disposable for the field." Captain Ord's company of the third artillery, stationed
at Benicia, California, was ordered to be in readiness to embark on the steamer for
Oregon. Brevet Lieutenant-Colonel Buchanan, major in the fourth infantry, was
selected to take charge of the field operations. On March fifth the general embarked
at San Francisco with Ord's com^jany, Lieutenant-Colonel Buchanan, Captain Cram,
Lieutenants Bonnycastle and Arnold, and Assistant-Surgeon Milhau, for the seat of
Avar. On the eighth of March Lieutenant-Colonel Buchanan lauded at Crescent City
with Ord's company, and united with Jones' regulars and Abbott's volunteers in a
vigorous prosecution of the war. General Wool's plan consisted of the conjoined
action of the troops from Crescent City with those from Port Orford and those of Cap-
tain Smith, to whom orders had been sent to descend the Rogue river in time to
co-operate in the work. Captain Abbott, setting out from Crescent City before the
regulars were ready, encountered the Pistol River and Chetco bands and fought them
for a day, losing several men who were wounded and Private Miller killed, and ulti-
mately being surrounded and forced to take refuge behind logs upon the beach. A
night was sjDent thus when the regulars, 112 in number, under Captains Jones and

Tunnel No.8, Length, Z,8P2 FEET.
0& C.R.R.

II

INDIAN WARS. 277

Ord (E. O. C. Ord, late a major-general in the United States service, deceased in
1883), who charged and drove the savages away. Tarrying in the vicinity a few days
for the pnrpose of inflicting a severe lesson on these hostiles, their carai) was taken by
the volunteers and the fleeing inmates were met and severely chastised by the regulars.

On the twentieth of March Lieutenant-Colonel Buchanan, with the regnhars from
Crescent Gty, ai-rived at the mouth of Eogue river, having left Captain Abbott at
Pistol river to keep open communications with Crescent City, the base of supplies-
Operations on the lower Rogue began by an assault upon the Makanootenai rancheria,
about ten miles up-stream and four or six below Big Bend. Captains Ord and Jones
took the town, killing several Indians and driving the rest to their canoes. One man,
Sergeant Nash, was severely wounded. A few days later a detachment of Captain
Augur's company reached the mouth of Illinois river and found some ten or twelve
Indians belonging to John or Limpy's band, and fought them. The Indians strove des-
l)erately and five of them fell dead before the conflict was decided. Captain Augur had
thus far failed to effect a junction with his superior officer and after the fight found it
necessary to return toward Gold Beach. The Indians of the up-river band followed
him closely, entering his camp as soon as he had abandoned it and whooping, l)urning
loose powder and dancing to testify their joy 'at his presumed defeat.

Captain Smith set out from Fort Lane Avitli eighty men — fifty dragoons compris-
ing his own company, and thirty infantrymen. All of these went on foot, and the
former carried their musketoons, "an ill-featured fire-arm that was alike aggressive at
both ends " and which contributed to the inefficiency of that branch of the service as
much as any cause. However, it is a matter of fact that the United States government
is always at least a score of years behind the age in the armament of its troops, so the
reader should not be surprised to learn the peculiarities of the musketoon, the princi-
pal weapon of mounted troops in that decade. Cajitain Smith marched down Rogue
river, up Slate creek to Hays' farm, from thence to Deer creek and theuce down Illinois
river to the Rogue, and encamped a few miles further down that stream, having come
to his destination.

Negotiations had been in progress for a few days, thanks to the exertions of Palmer,
superintendent of Indian affiiirs, and it was hoped that an agreement would be reached,
at least with the Coast Indians who were now much scattered. Enos, with quite a
number of his followers, had joined the up-river bands who were lying on the river
above the Big Bend. Some others had gone to Fort Orford and placed themselves
under the protection of the military there, and no malcontents were left upon the coast
save a few Pistol river and Chetco Indians who had not yet been sufficiently pacificated.
Several actions had taken place at various points along the coast, the results of which
were calculated to humble the Indians. On the twenty-seventh of March a party of
regulars were fired upon from the brush while jiroceeding down the banks of the Rogue,
whereujion they charged the enemy and killed eight or ten savages, with a loss to
themselves of two wounded. On April 1, Captain Creighton with a company of citi-
zens attacked an Indian village near the mouth of the Coquille river, killing nine men,
wounding eleven and taking forty squaws and children prisoners. These Indians liad
been under the care of the government authorities at PurtOrford until a few days before
tlie fight and (.nly left that place because some meddlesome whites had represented to

278 INDIAN AVARS.

them tliat it was the soldiers' intention to kill them. Consequently they left, and
Creighton with his men pursued and attacked them. Again, a party of volunteers
intercepted several canoe loads of Indians near the mouth of the Rogue river and killed
eleven males and one squaw; one male and two squawks only escaped. On the twenty-
ninth of April a party of sixty regulars, convoying a pack-train, were attacked near
Chetco by the remnant of the band of savages of that name, supposed to number about
sixty, but probably less, and two or three soldiers were killed or wounded. The battle
ended by the defeat of the natives, who lost six braves killed, and several wounded. In
the month of April three volunteer companies operated on the coast, and did much
service in spite of their being badly armed and equipped. These were the Gold Beach
Guards, the Coquille Guards and the Port Orford Minute Men.

CHAPTER XXXIII.

THE WAR ENDED.

Usefulness of the Volunteers— Council at Oak Fiat— Chief John Refuses to Treat —Military Operations— Bat-
tle of Big- Meadows— Indian Tactics— Arrival of Au^ur- Movements of the Volunteers— Proclamation
of Disbandraent— The Indians Surrender— At the Reservation— The End— Financial History of the War.

The Indian occupancy of Southern Oregon was now reaching its last days. The
soil whereon the red man had trod and from whence arose the smoke of his camp fire,
was about to pass forever into the possession of an alien race. The stormy scenes of
the past six years were about to close, and the striving of white and red men had
reached its climax. Hemmed in on all sides, w^ithout resources, without friends, the
liostile tribes felt ther inability to cope with the organized forces now directed against
them, and succumbed to the inevitable. Yet they did not relinquish their native land
without tremendous struggles. The severest conflict of the war was the last. The
part the volunteers took in the termination of hostilities was very creditable. Major
Bruce, it will be remembered, was left in charge of the construction of the proposed
fort at the Big Meadows, which was named Fort Lamerick, and was garrisoned by the
companies of Blakely, Bledsoe, Barnes, Keith, and Noland, (successor of Captain
Buoy), aggregating rather more than 200 effective men. Being ^above the 230sition
occupied by the hostile Indians, Fort Lamerick proved well situated for the j^urposes
for which it was held, and being so strongly garrisoned the Indians were effectually
prevented from re-occupying their old haunts to the eastward. While the troops were
doing the indispensable duty of confining the savages to the lower part of the river
the citizens, safely immured in their own houses, were actively engaged in complaining
that the army did nothing and should be discharged. If there was a time when their

INDIAN WARS. 270

services were valuable it was now that Old John and -his allies, rendered desjaerate by
dearth of i)rovisions and the neai- approach of the regulars, sought to escape from the
mountain fastnesses which had been to them a prison. The consequences of a raid by
these desperate Indians upon the valleys and inhabited places would have exceeded
any ills yet known or imagined save the massacre of Wyoming, which might again
have been enacted. In a word, the volunteers rendered the invaluable service of con-
fining the enemy to a tract of uninhabited country where they could do no damage, and
from whence it was impossible for them to escape.

On the twenty-first and twenty-second of May, Superintendent Palmer and the
commander-in-chief held a conference with the Indians, invitations to all of whom had
been extended. This is officially known as the Council of Oak Flat, the locality being
on the right bank of the Illinois river, some three miles above its mouth. Nearly all
the regular troops were present, making quite a display of force, the aggregate number
of regulars at hand being about 200. Almost all the hostiles were present, and awed,
no doubt, by the impressiveness of the spectacle, most of them agreed to surrender on
a certain day. Not so however with chief John. This undaunted chieftain, when
called upon to speak, said to Lieutenant-Colonel Buchanan : " You are a great chief;
so am I a great chief; this is my country ; I was in it when these trees were very little,
not higher than iny head. My heart is sick fighting the whites, but I want to live in
my country. I will not go out of my country. I will, if the Avhites are willing, go
back to the Deer creek country and live as I used to do among' the whites ; they can
visit my camp and I will visit theirs ; but I will not lay down my arms and go to the
reserve. 1 will fight. Good bye." And so saying, he strode into the forest.

The result of the negotiations was the agreement of a great many Indians, notably
the coast bands, to come in and give up their arms at a time and place fixed by the
superintendent. On or before the twenty-sixth of May they were to assemble at the
Big Meadows, and be escorted thence to Port Orford. The whole of the regular
troops were at the council, save Ord's company which had been sent to Port Orford to
escort a provision train to the command at Oak Flat. Reynold's company Avas sent
out to meet the same train, as its safety was very important. On the twenty-fourth
Captain Smith left Oak Flat with his eighty dragoons and infantrymen to proceed to
Big iMeadows and perform escort duty when the Indians surrendered. He crossed the
river and encamped on the north side near the place fixed upon for the surrender. On
the twenty-fifth the chief in command moved from Oak Flat down the Illinois, and
leaving Jones' company at its mouth, went across the Rogue with Augur's company
and set about opening a trail for the passage of the surrendered Indians with their
guard, who were exj)ected the next day. On the evening of May twenty-sixth Lieu-
tenant-Colonel Buchanan with Augur's company was on the north side of the river,,
some few miles from the mouth of the Illinois; Captain Ord was about ten miles west
of Oak Flat, with the train; Jones was at the mouth of the Illinois; Reynolds about
ten miles below that point, on the Port Orford trail; Smith at Big Meadows; and the
main body of the Indians were on the bank of the Rogue, about five miles above Smith.
The twenty-sixth passed and no Indians came in, but Smith was informed that they
were delayed by slippery roads, and would be in during the next day. During the
evening of the same day, George, a well-known chief of the Indians, and previously

280 INDIAN WARS.

often spoken of, caused it to become known to Captain Smith that an attack was medi-
tated on his camp. He instantly set about moving his command to a much more
secure position an the river between two small creeks entering the main stream from
the northwest. He occupied an oblong elevation some two hundred and fifty yards
in length, and about twenty in width. Between this mound and the river is a narrow
bottom called Big Meadows, but which was not the same locality designated by the
volunteers as Big Meadows, and whereon stood Fort Lamerick. The latter locality
is several miles further up the river, and further removed from the stream. The top
of the elevation on which Captain Smith was now encamped formed a plateau of size
sufficient for one company to encamp upon, and is of slight elevation. Directly to the
north is another elevation of equal height and within rifle range of the first. Early in
the morning of the twenty-seventh, Smith sent a messenger to apprise Buchanan of
his new position, and that the Indians had not come in. He also added to the express:
"I think Old John may attack me."

The express reached Buchanan in due time and was sent back to inquire of Smith
if re-inforcemeuts were desired ; but finding him surrounded with Indians fighting
actively, the express returned to Buchanan, but getting lost in the night, did not reach
that officer until the morning of May 28. Buchanan at once ordered Captain Augur
to re-inforce Smith, and that officer, marching eighteen miles in four and a half hours,
broke upon the savages and scattered them. The story of Smith's defense against large
odds is thus told :

Directly after the departure of the messenger, the savages came in from all direc-
tions and soon the north mound was covered with them. A body of forty warriors
attempted to enter camp, but were halted on the spot and told to lay down their arms
at a certain spot. There being a howitzer planted so as to rake that approach, and a
body of infantry at hand, the Indians felt it best to retire and consult their chiefs who
stood u2)on the northern mound, where John was actively giving orders. At ten
o'clock in the forenoon the Indians, who had completely surrounded Smith's position,
made a sudden rush upon it, from both sides; but they were repulsed by the howitzer
and infantry. John developed all the tactics and strategy of a consummate general in
his management of these and subsequent charges, and from his station gave commands
in the Indian tongue, which were distinctly heard in Smith's camp and interpreted to
the Captain. Implicit and thorough obedience characterized the conduct of his war-
riors, who fought bravely to carry out their commander's intentions. It was a spectacle
unparalleled in the annals of savage warfare, to behold a body of undisciplined men
move obediently to perform the orders of a leader who was not a leader in the sense to
which these children of the forest were accustomed. Disregarding the traditions of his
race which impel a chief to perform the most dangerous personal service, John, adopt-
ing the methods of civilization, confined himself to the more important duty of organ-
izing and directing his warriors. His method of attack was by means of small-arm fire
at long range, wherein many of the warriors, particularly of his own band, were adepts;
charges by the larger bodies of braves ; and unexpected attacks by smaller numbers,
who sought to gain the mound by scaling the steeper portions where the guard was
weak. Only thirty of Smith's men had arms adapted to long range shooting, the
dragoons' musketoons being useless except at close quarters. John's men, on the con-

*'?.

(1

•1

Looking SOUTH from Tunnel No. 8.
OS C.R.R.

INDIAN WARS. 281

trary, possessed excellent pieces and shot effectively from almost incredible distances.
The battle having been prolonged nntil night, the Indians drew off and encamped,
resolved to renew the fight in the morning. Smith occupied his men in constructing
rifle-pits and building with his camp equipage temporary defences, and in procuring
water from the river for his thirsty troops. On the following morning the Indians
again opened fire and continued the battle. Old John put forth all his efforts to seize
victory, as there was every chance that re-inforcements for Smith would soon arrive,
when all hope of terminating the war favorably to the Indians w^ould be lost. But
in spite of his generalship and personal bravery the assaults were successfully repulsed,
and owing to the improved system of defences, less damage was caused by the sharji-
shooters upon the north mound.

About four o'clock in the afternoon the Indians formed in two bodies with the
intention of attacking both flanks simultaneously, and in force. Just at the critical
moment of their attack. Captain Augur's comjjany was seen advancing. In conjunc-
tion with these Smith charged and dispersed the enemy, John and all the rest
escaping into the woods. Smith's loss was twenty-nine in killed and wounded, the
most of whom were hit by bullets from the north mound. Says Captain Cram: "The
number of warriors who arranged themselves under the banner of Old John for this
last struggle for the defence of their valley was about 400." Aside from the glaring
solecism of mentioning Indians as fighting under a banner, this sentence contains the
im})ortant error of ascribing to John's warriors at least twice their actual force. Two
hundred would probal)ly be nearer the mark, and even this number may be too large,
as it is well known that the band over which John was chief only numbered from two
to three score, and all in excess must have been volunteers for the occasion. It is
reported that the Indians were so confident of caj)turing Smith and his command that
they provided a number of pieces of rope, corresponding to the number of men in the
command, wherewith to hang the whites, thereby saving the powder which would be
required to shoot them ; but several almost convincing objections to the truth of the
report suggest themselves. They also intended, it is said, to attack the scattered forces
of Buchanan in detail, and annihilate them before they could effect a junction; afea.sible
plan in view of their wide separation. To prevent any like attempts for the future,
Buchanan concentrated his forces at the Big Meadows on the thirtieth of May, and
remained there uiitil the greater ^lart of the Indians had surrendered.

While Captain Smith was thus contending with John and his warriors, the volun-
teers some miles up the river were fighting Limpy and George and their people.
Major Latshaw left Fort Lamerick on January twenty-seventh with 21o men, and
marched twelve miles down the river and during the next day skirmished with the
Indians of some rancherias still lower down, killing some and taking fifteen prisoners.
On the twenty-ninth, the day following John's defeat by Captain Smith, more skirm-
ishing was done, and H. C. Houston, sergeant in Keith's company, was badly wounded.
On the following day fighting-took place on the south side of the river, between a [tarty
of volunteers and some Indians, and Private Cooly, of Wallan's company, was
wounded in the thigh and hand. On the thirty-first Major Latshaw, with loO
men, moved to Bucluinan's headquarters, at Big Meadows. They here found that
Linq>y and fieorge had surrcndcM-cd with tlicir bands on I\Iay twenty-ninth, the day

282 INDIAN WARS.

following their figlit with the volunteers. They had reported to Buchanan that the
woods up the river were full of " Bostons," and that they had never seen so many guns
in their lives.

On the fifth of June, a great many Indians having alread}" surrendered. General
Lamerick, finding that the enemy had all left the neighborhood of Fort Lamerick,
assumed command of his forces in person and moving down the river, encamped at Big
Bend, where the regulars were lying. The next day a combined movement was made
down the river by three companies of regulars and Caj^tain Bledsoe's company of vol-
unteers, and an Indian encampment was destroyed, some twenty or more natives being
killed or drowned in endeavoring to eseajje. Two volunteers were wounded. The
main body of the Indians were encamped on the river about fifteen miles below Big
Bend, and- it was General Lamerick's intention to attack them, but their cabins were
found deserted when the attacking party arrived.

Under date of May thirty-first. Governor Curry made proclamation, that as the
Indians seemed pretty well subdued, the volunteers in the field were ordered to be dis-
banded, with the exception of Keith's and Blakely's companies, which under the
command of a major, should remain to protect such settlements as seemed in possible
danger, and to perform other necessary duties. This order, issued somewhat prema-
turely, was disregarded by General Lamerick, and we find him in the field a month
later, no doubt to the vast annoyance of the regular officers, who took to themselves
the credit of concluding the war and severely blamed the volunteers for harsh treat-
ment of such Indians as fell into their hands.

The remaining acts of the citizen soldiery can be briefly told. Major Bruce
headed an expedition down the coast to the country of the Chetco and Pistol River
bands, and killed three males and took fifty prisoners. The Indians laid down their
arms on being fired on, but some retreating to the brush, were ordered to come out,
which they did. The chief of the Chetcoes was brought in by Captain Bledsoe,
who distinguished himself by his activity and bravery on many occasions. On June
twenty-second. Major Latshaw, with Keith, Noland, and Blakely's companies, marched
from the mouth of the river via Fort Lamerick to Camas prairie and Deer creek, and
the troops going to Eugene City were there disbanded. General Lamerick, with
Barnes' company, jaroceeded to Port Orford, with ordei's for this organization to be
mustered out on July first. Captain Bledsoe, with his men, remained in service for a
short time subsequently.

On the twentieth of June Chief John sent five of his braves to Buchanan's head-
quarters to announce that their leader would surrender on the same terms as had
Limj^y, George and other chiefs, but he wished the whites to guarantee safety to
Enos, who was an object of particular aversion to the volunteers. Enos, within a few
weeks of the massacre, had joined forces with John, but had been deserted by the
Coast Indians whose speedy surrender had alienated him from his former associates.
In this strait he had found a friend in John, whose solicitude in his protege's behalf
argues a strong vein of humanity in his character. Previously the chief had refused
all overtures of peace, saying that war suited him sufficiently well, and that in sjMte of
the desertion of all the other Indians he would remain in his beloved country and
fight continually. But by the first of July all the known hostiles had surrendered

INDIAN WARS. 283

save a few about Pistol i-iver, and Joliii'.s own band; and the latter were now deserted
bj' a small number of Klauiaths, who, loving fighting for its own sake, and doubtless
attracted b}' the renown of the celebrated chief whose achievements had become known
to the Indians throughout Oregon and Northern California, left their too quiet home
near the lakes, and came to learn the art of war under this savage leader. Deserted
by these and sated with unequal combats, John surrendered to the regular army, an
escort of 110 soldiers being sent out to accompany him and his little band of thli-ty-
five to Port Orford.

The objects of the war were now accomplished. The last band of hostile Indians
had surrendered. On the temporary i-eservation at Port Orford were gathered about
l,oOO Indians of various tribes, and including all the surviving members of the bands
which had begun and carried on the war. All the chiefs of note were there; and not
less than 300 warriors, the like of whom for bravery, perseverance and fighting powers
have rarely been seen. Their career in arms was now effectually stopped; and it
remained to remove them from a country where peace for them would be an impossi-
bility. The coast reservation was fixed upon as their future abode — a tract seventy
miles long, lying upon the coast of Oregon and extending from Cape Perpetua to Cape
Lookout, and from the Pacific ocean to the western water-shed of the Willamette. By
the first of September, 1856, 2,700 Indians had been removed there, including the
Table Rock band under Chief Sam, who were taken there during the previous month
of February, wliile the war was in progress. The Umpquas were removed there also,
and were remarkable for their industry and obedience. The new home of the Indians
wa.s a well-watered country, hardly so fertile as that they had left, and much less
pleasant. Fogs prevail and an enormous rainfall during the winter months makes the
region gloomy and unpleasant. Nevertheless, nuts, roots, grasses, fish and game abound
and furnished the savages a tolerable living throughout a portion of the year. Upon this
extensive tract the tribes lived at peace with each other and the outside world, guarded
from the contact of the whites by strong detachments of military, who held the avail-
able passes from the east. Fort Umpqua at the mouth of the river of that name, Fort
Hoskins in King's valley, Polk county, and another post still further north stood
between them and civilization. At the more suitable localities in this large tract the
Indians were located and in some cases began to assist in their own support, the gov-
ei-nment, in consideration of the surrender of their lands, contributing the remainder.
Here Old Sam, chief of the Table Rock band, was located, and here he developed
traits of commercial enterprise previously unsuspected; for he raised apples and onions
and disposed of them to his less provident subjects for exorbitant prices. Enos, too,
was there for a time, but his restless habits got him into difiiculties and he made illicit
expeditious to various parts of the state, and being detected therein was denounced by
certain nervous people as a fire-brand who. was seeking to again spread the flames of
war. There is a tradition in Curry county that Enos was hanged upon Battle rock at
Port Orford; but the Indian then executed was one of four Coquille Indians hanged
for the murder of Veuable and Burton.

John, the central figure of the war, after two years of inaction at the Yaiiuina,
tried to instigate a revolt of the savages, with the object of seizing arms, overpowering
the military, and escaping to their old hunting grounds. Being detected therein. John

284 INDIAN WARS.

and his son Adam were placed in irons, and sent by the steamer Columbia to Sau
Francisco, and confined in the militai'y prison at Alcatraz. During the voyage the
two warriors escaped from confinement, and attacking their guard attempted to take
the ship. They were soon overjjowered, but not before the younger savage lost a leg,
which was severed by a blow with a butcher's cleaver. -They were turned over to the
authorities at Fort Flint, in San Francisco bay, and after a somewhat prolonged resi-
dence as prisoners of war, were pardoned on promises of leading peaceful lives in
future, and were returned to Oregon. At a later date Adam was in the Klamath lake
country, where he became a chief The termination of his father's career is not dis-
tinctly made out.

In 1857 an accurate census of the Indians upon the reserve proved them to num-
ber 2,049 souls, in fourteen different bands. In 1869 there were half as many, still
keeping up tribal relations. In 1866 the greater part of the reservation was taken
away from them, and laid open to settlement by whites, and the comparatively few sur-
vivors are confined within the narrow limits of what is called the Siletz reservation,
which is a small portion of the former extensive tract. Grande Ronde is another des-
ignation for the same reserve.

Subsequent to the removal of the Indians some occurrences took place in Southern
Oregon which properly belong to the subject of the Indian wars, because brought
about by the few Indians who chose to remain in their old home and brave the anger
of their white enemies rather than accompany the rest of their tribe into exile. In
the southern part of Curry county there remained a few Indians, and in the southern
part of Douglas county, more particularly in the vicinity of Cow creek, another small
band were in hiding. On the Illinois river a few were also known to live, the miser-
able and lonely relics of Limpy's once powerful band. These latter, impelled, doubt-
less, by hunger, committed a few robberies during the month of July, 1856, and made
an attempt on the life of one Thompson, but were driven off. The scene of their
depredations was chiefly on Sucker and Althouse creeks. On the road between Camas
prarie and the Big Meadows the dead bodies of two white men were found about the
same time, whose evident murder was laid to Indians- About the middle of August
some few Indians supposed to be Cow Creeks, signalized themselves by several attacks
on citizens in the southern part of Douglas county. Moffit, a citizen, was pursued by
a half-dozen of the band, but escaped. On August fourteenth James Eussell and
James Weaver, while riding along the road between Canyonville and Deer creek, were
shot at and the former severely wounded. Both escaped. The same band, after burn-
ing two houses, attacked and wounded another man near Burnett's place. Citizen
Klink, of Douglas county, was fired at by Indians while plowing in his field. He ran
to his house, shot through both arms. The assailants soon retired, but Major Cranmer,
at the head of a volunteer company, arrested six of them a day or two subsequently.
It was estimated that 100 Indians were still residing on Cow creek in August.

On the sixth of the previous month a packer lost his life at the hands of hostile
Indians on the Siskiyou mountains. A j^ack-train was waylaid by Indians while
coming from Yreka to Jacksonville, and one Fogle was shot through the breast and
soon died. These repeated casualties show conclusively that the state of affairs that
existed immediately after the deportation of the tribes was of a most unquiet character ;

INDIAN WARS. 285

but society was not long subject to these disturbing causes. By the early part of the
following year these difficulties had ceased and quietness reigned. Thus closed the
Indian wars in Southern Oregon.

The financial history of the Indian wars of the early years presents considerable
of importance to interest the reader. It has been mentioned that the demands
of the war of 1853 were paid in full two years later, through the action of General
Lane and others. The accounts growing out of the Walker expedition "To fight
the emigrants," as some facetious ones have termed it, were paid subsequent to the
war of the rebellion. The act of Congress which authorized their jmyment, was
based upon a previous act approved July 17, 1854, entitled "An act to authorize the
secretary of war to settle and adjust the expenses of the Rogue River war [of 1853],"
which was extended to cover the case of Captain Walker's company. The claims
growing out of the last Indian war achieved quite a history. In the summer of 1856
the matter of these claims W'as brought before Congress by the Oregon delegate.
General Lane, and being referred to the committee on military affairs, a recommenda-
tion was made by that committee favorable to the payment of the expenses of the wars
in Oregon and Washington, the two sets of claims — arising from the Rogue River and
the Yakima wars — becoming mingled in all congressional and official rejjorts. In
consequence of this recommendation congress, on the eighteenth of August, passed an
act, one of whose provisions is: "Be it enacted, That the secretary of war be directed
to examine into the amount of expenses necessarily incurred in the suppression of
hostilities in the late Indian war in Oregon and Washington by the territorial govern-
ments in the maintenance of the volunteer forces engaged, including pay of volun-
teers, and he may if he deem it necessary, direct a commission of three to report these
expenses to him," etc. In consequence a commission consisting of Captain Andrew^ J.
Smith, previously many times mentioned in the account of the wars; Captain Rufus
Ingalls, now a high official in the paymaster's department, U. S. A.; and Lafayette
Grover, of Salem, Or., was appointed to make the examination as aforesaid. They
began work in October, 1856, and after spending more than a year in a careful inves-
tigation of these claims, "traveling over the whole field of operations occupied by the
volunteers during hostilities, and becoming thoroughly conversant with the matter,"
made their report to the secretary of war. According to their examination the sum of
1^4,44! (,949.33 was due as the expenses on the part of Oregon. The muster-rolls of
companies represented an indebtedness, after deducting stoppages for clothing, etc.,
of 11,409,644.53; while scrip had been issued to the extent of $3,040,344.80 in jmy-
ment of supplies, etc., furnished. This aggregate was exclusive of claims for spoliation
by Indians, and included only what were thought to be the legitimate expenses of main-
taining the volunteer force in the field. The report and accompanying documents were
transmitted to congress, and on the eighth of February, 1859, a resolution passed the
house of representatives providing that it should be the duty of the third auditor of
the treasury to examine the vouchers and i)apers connected with the subject, and make
a report in the December following, of the amount due each individual engaged in the
military service of the two territories during the war. The resolution also provided
that he should allow the volunteers no higher pay than was received by the officers
and soldit'rs of like grade in the regular army, inrludin>;' tlic extra pay of two dollars

286 INDIAN WAES.

jjer month conferred by act of congress of 1852 on troops serving on the Pacific coast ;
that he was to recognize no company or individual as entitled to pay except such as
had been duly called into service by the territorial authorities; that in auditing claims
for supplies, transj^ortation, etc., he was directed to have a due regard to the number of
troops, to their period of service and to the prices which were current at the time and
place.

On February 7, 1860, K. J. Atkinson, third auditor, made his report. It was an
exhaustive and voluminous document, and it reduced the grand total of the claims of
various sorts, acted on by the three commissioners, from $6,011,457.36 to $2,714,808.55,
a reduction of about fifty-five per cent. This estimate was taken as a basis for these
claims, and by a subsequent act of congress a sum of money to correspond was appro-
priated to pay them, the greater portion of which has been disbursed.

CHAPTER XXXIV.

NAMES OF THE VOLUNTEERS.

Muster-Roll of the Second Regiment -Officers and Privates Who Took Part in the War of 1855 -Com-
panies Omitted.

Eoll of the Second Regiment Oregon Mounted Volunteers, December 7, 1855
to March 18, 1856 :

Colonel, R. L. Williams ; Lieutenant-Colonel, William J. Martin ; Major, James
Bruce ; Adjutant, Charles S. Drew ; Regimental Quartermaster, Jacob S. Rinearson ;
Commissary, Terrill A. Jackson ; First Lieutenants attached to staff, Riley E. Stratton,
Edgar B. Stone, Andrew J. Kane, Walter S. Hotchkiss ; Sergeant Major, Daniel P.
Barnes.

Roll of field and stafi'of the Second Regiment on the nineteenth of March, 1856:

Colonel, John Kelsey; Lieutenant-Colonel, William W. Chapman; Major, James
Bruce ; Major First Recruiting Battalion, William H. Latshaw ; Major Second Re-
cruiting Battalion, E. L. Massey ; Adjutant, Sandford R. Myres ; Adjutant Right
Column, J. M. Cranmer; Adjutant Recruiting Battalion, Lyman B. Munson ; Regi-
mental Quartermasters, John B. White, Joseph L. White ; Commissary, Terrill B.
Jackson; Sergeant Major, Byron M. Dawes; Farrier, William Horseley.

Company A. — Mustered October 23, 1855 ; discharged February 6, 1856 — Cap-
tain, Joseph Bailey ; First Lieutenant, D. W. Keith ; Second Lieutenant, Cyrenus
Mulkey; Sergeants, T. J. Holland, W. A. Owen, R. Hayes, Jonathan Riggs ; Cor-
porals, Chas. McClure, James Woodey, A. Crissman, John Wilson ; Privates, T. J.
Aubery, M. C. Aubery, J. C. Anderson, J. Buffington, G. Bogart, C. Bogart, O. H. P.

INDIAN WARS. 287

Beagle, J. H. Beagle, W. L. Baskett, M. Belcher, J. M. Brewer, A. Benton, Wm. Cox,

F. Cogswell, W. Dougherty, G. B. Day, J. J. Davison, W. B. Earnest, I. Early, M.
Furgerson, J. W. Funk, J. M. Gale, J. Gillespie, J. L. Gardner, G. B. Hayes, L. C.
Hawley, J. Henderson, D. C. Howard, W. Howard, E. Hills, Wm. Hunt, H. Holmes,
J. January, A. A. King, W. Kirki^atrick, A. W. Laughlin, J. Lapham, Z. S. McCall,
J. F. jMulkey, J. Mulkey, E. H. McGinuis, H. B. McPherson, J. W. McMinn, S. H.
McBee, J. S. Miller, A. A. Morgan, L; Morgan, C. J. Matlock, R. M. Masterson, A.
Murray, H. Milbourn, J. McCall, G. Ozmond, John Pankey, W. W. Patterson, L. B.
Roland, W. L. Rogers, L. S. Rogers, R. Rush, J. W. Richardson, Benj. Stanton, J. C.
•Summer, Jos. Siden, H. A. Stevens, M. Taylor, S. Taylor, G. W. Tucker, D. Taylor,
Robert Wilson, C. P. Wilson, J. M. Wallan, W. M.^Vatson, John Watson, C. W.
Wild.

CoMPA>'Y D. — Mustered November 10,1855; discharged May 15, 1856 — Cap-
tain, E. A. Rice ; First Lieutenant, John S. Miller ; Second Lieutenant, J. F. Ander-
son ; Sergeants, Ebeuezer Pinkham, John Hailey ; Corporals, G. W. Collins, James
Dickey, John McBride ; Privates, Ira W. Barbee, Charles Barnes, Joseiih Craine,
John Crosby, William Cogle, J. M. Cramer, J. J. Charlton, Lewis Calhoun, Nicholas
Cook, Oscar Duskins, William M. Elliott, W. M. Griffin, B. B. Griffin, J. F. Griffin,
C. C. Goodwin, Alvan Heading, Isaac C Hill, F. M. Huddleston, J. T. Hamilton
David N. Herren, Edward James, Jacob Long, Tobias Lytle, Nathan Milton, Tobias
Mosev, A. J. Mattoon, George Morris, Chancy N3'e, S. Pearse, Asher T. Prouty, Na-
thaniel Rice, Wm. C. Riggs, William J. Robinson, Jacob B. Rinehart, Isaac Swinden,

G. Stopper, Peter Sailing, Samuel Smith, Bushford Stanton, Noah Sagers, Jacob
Tompson, D. W. A'anmarter, John W. Wood, Miles Wakeman, Robison Wright,
William Yerke.

Company E. — Mustered at Fort Vannoy, November 10, 1855, discharged Feb-
ruary 1. 185(5 — Captain, Robert L. AVilliams (elected Colonel, December 7); First
Lieutenant, Hugh O'Neal (became Captain, January 5, 1856); Second Lieutenant,
Michael Bushey ; Sergeants, George A. Eades, William J. Matthews, Grenville Blake,
Richard Moore; Corjaorals, R. C. Brewer, Amasa Morse, John Lee, Samuel Cornelius ;
Privates, John Axtell, B. Antoine, Charles Abraham, Benjamin Armstrong, James
Black, L. Bozarth, W. E. Bozarth, M. Baughraan, Daniel Briggs, B. B. Brockway,
( 'hristian Bellifelt, Joshua Barker, Michael Bone, William Barton, J. H. Barnes, Elzey
Bird, H. R. Covert, John Cheeney, Nicholas Comser, James Curtain, Abraham Cole,
Wm. Clements, Samuel Christalier, Ichabod Dodsen, Andrew J. Duskill, John C. S.
Davis, Joseph Dickerson, George Dinsmore, James Duydate, J. P. Davidson, Thomas
DeHaven, H. H. Epps, George R. Elliott, Michael Emerich, Harry Evens, Alexander
Fuller, William Finch, A. W. Forgey, J. L. Frye, S. A. Frye, Thomas Gill, Robert
Ganimill, Ray Giddes, J. C. Graves, John Gould, J. W. Galbraith, Jefferson Howell,
Green Holton, John R. Hale, Samuel Hawkins, Henry Hempster, William Heverlo,
.lohn B. Hutton, Peter Harrison, P. H. Harper, William Hyde, James Hornl)uckle, I.
S. Inman, H. S. Jones, John Jones, John Johnson, John Johnston, H. F. Johnston,
Chas. Kimball, James Kelly, G. W. Keeler, T. R. Lawson, John Miller, Voorhe Mul-
lan, Jacob Miller, Thomas Ma.stin, S. K. Myers, N. H. Martin, P. J. Mann, Thos. E.
•McKdin, .lohu Meter, S. D. Northcutt, W. W. Northcutt, Francis Pierson, John

2SS INDIAN WAES.

Parder, Samuel Parks, W. N. Pollock, David Philipps, Thomas Kyaa, N. Ramsey,
J. M. Roberts, Daniel Richardson, A. M. Raiuey, L. Scoller, W. Stamnes, H. W.
Stainton, Jno. Slater, Jacob Schernerhom, Seth Smith, D. H. Sexton, P. Snellback,
Jno. Sargent, Wm. Smith, S. B. Sarles, Ed. Smith, Wm.Torrey, Jas. Thompson, A. J.
Vincent, Z. Yan Norman, George Weeks, J. C. Ward, James Wilson, G. Walker, H.
Wilson, O. Whitsell, J. J. Whitsell, Charles Ward, Alex. Watts, J. J. Writter, N. J.
Walker, Jas. Woolen, Anderson Williams, D. M. Yates.

CoMPAXY F. — Mustered November 10, 1855 ; discharged, February 10, 1856—
Captain, William A. Wilkinson; First Lieutenant, C. F. Blake; Second Lieutenant,
M. F. Wakeman ; Sergeants, E. Hewitt, A. M. Shauntz, S. Fox, Robert Cochran ;
Corporals, James Stephens, William Gray, Lewis Miller, Hiram Wade ; Privates, Wil-
liam Allen, B. W. Alkin, John D. Alkire, William Arnett, Abraham Bowman, Wil-
liam Bradley, James Brown, Stephen Betts, Arthur Coffin, Alfred Carter, J. H.
Cochran, J.F. Chaflfe, N. Campbell, G. C. Clay, Henry Cylinski, Emory Dalton,
Theodore Deppe, W. H. Davidson, Patrick Daily, W. W. Edmonson, William Ells-
worth, W. L. Freeman, Ransom Freeman, J. Farrout, Joseph Fitzen, J. W. Gaveny,
Charles Griflfith, O. Guilbert, Francis Graves, Edwin L. Hesse, Simon N. Harvey, F.
Y. Henderson, Thomas Huffman, John Harris, Henry Hawes, Thomas Hays, John
Holloway, William Hobbes, J. B. Hunt, John Keller, David Kelsey, A. J. Long, J.W.
Liles, G.' F. Ledford, G. Mathews, J. W. ]May, T. H. Mitchell, James McCrate, B. F.
Moore, Elias D. Mercer, Eli Martin, Michael Mowan, J. R. Meacham, E. F. Newland,
James Ogg, Andrew Oldsen, John Osborn, William Purvis, W. W. Parrish, Albion
Powell, John Ragsdale, George Reed, Andrew Russel, Jonathan Smith, Isaac Sneltser,
John Stanley, J. E. Stephens, James J. Sanders, John B. White, J. W. White, Joseph
Ward, D. W. Wallace, William Worden.

Company F. — Re-enlisted February 11, 1856; discharged May 26, 1856 — Captain,
W. A. Wilkinson; First Lieutenant, C. F. Blake ; Second Lieutenant, Edwin L. Hesse ;
Sergeants, J. H. Cochran, A. J. Long, T. W. Mitchell, Robert Cochran ; Corporals, T.
W. Siles, J. F. M. Hash, S. N. Harvey, John D. Alkire; Privates, William Arnett, A.
Bowman, James Brown, William Bradley, Arthur Coffin, Henry Cylinski, William
Custerline, Alfred Carter, W. H. Davidson, Patrick Daily, Emory Dalton, Theodore
Deppe, W. W. Edmonson, B. F. Endersby, Joseph Fitzen, J. W. Gaveny, Francis
Graves, William Hobbes, John Harris, S. M. Hall, Seth Hall, Daniel S. Hicks, James
B. Hunt, David Johnston, David Kelsey, W. C. Miller, Greenville Mathews, James
McCrate, Michael Moran, Andrew McClure, B. F. Moore, F. N. McKee, E. D. Mercer,
J. W. May, T. R. Miller, B. F. Newlin, Oscar Nott.

CoMPAXY G. — Mustered February 6, 1856 ; discharged May 28, 1856— Captain,
Miles F. Alcorn ; First Lieutenant, James M. Matney ; Second Lieutenant, John
Osborn ; Sergeant, Silas J. Day (elected first lieutenant April 8) ; Privates, Robert
Alcorn, Joseph M. Addington, Squire Butcher, George Black, George Brown, John
W. Buckles, William Blane, William Brockus, Chester Badger, Zachariah Butts, Ariel
E. Chapin, Andrew J. Cooper, John R. Cooper, Peter Cook, George W. Cherry, Ed-
ward W. Day, Henry Gordon, Moses Hopwood, Miller Judd, Eli Judd, Allen Jones,
Ceyren Knudsen, William H. Lane, William Lane, John N. Lewis, John Lee, David
McClements, B. F. McKeen, John Morton, George Parks, Thomas C. Rowell, Samuel

-D r-

'■^^^mr^

INDIAN "WARS. 289

Reed'n-, Peter K. Sanderson, Jesse H. Stanley, J. 1). Sjjears, Woods T. Tucker, Jnlui
AVineland, James Woods, Thomas T. Walker.

Company H. — Mustered at Roseburg, November 2.'), ISoo ; discharged Februaiy
10,1850 — Captain, Samuel Gordon; First Lieutenant, Samuel B. Hadley ; Second
Lieutenant, Theodore Prater ; Sergeants, James B. Patton, Joseph Embree, Samuel I.
Buntou, John Partz ; Corporals, Samuel H. Mastin, S. B. Greenland, Elijah Bunton,
Jr., William A. Wallace ; Privates, E. P. Anderson, Thomas Anderson, William ]\L
Abbott, E. Barker, John Byron, William Briggs, I. M. Barker, Levi Bird, J. X. W.
Ijeliew, Hugh Carson, H. M. Colon, John C. Cannon, E. Cupsin, William C'ochran,
Garrett Crockett, Richard Duvall, John Dodson, John W. Dixon, M. S. Daily, AVil-
liam Doty, William P. Day, George W. Day, R. H. Estell, Hiram Everman, A. A.
Engels, W. M. Eaton, George Finch, I. AY. Farleigh, James Fordyce, I. K. Ford, John
Fitzhugh, Levi Gibbs, Robert G. Hadtey, Wm. Ireland, C. W. John.son, John Leicer,
David Lilly, Robert J. Long, George Lawrence, Henry A. Livingstone, A. McElwain,
W. J. Moore, Edwin Morgan, N. Mitchell, C. J. McClelland, J. B. Nichols, David
O'Neil, V. Oden, James M. Pyles, John Price, L. D. Philipps, Richard Patrum,
Robert Painter, Jr., Jesse Pool, F. M. Purley, I. Rapplye, Wm. Russell, Wm. H.
Riddle, Eli. B. Robinson, C. B. Rawson, Alexander Reed, W. D. Singleton, James R.
Scott, Hawkins Shelton, Edward Sheffield, Thomas Saum, Richard Shelton, N. I. Sexton,
William Silvers, I. W. Thororelf, A. S. Thompson, W. N. West, G. W. Williams,
Mathias Williams, I. P, Willson, F. M. W^right, James R. Wade, William Wilson,
William Weekley.

CoMt'AXY I. — Mustered at Roseburg, November 22, 185-5; discharged January
18, 1856 — Captain, W. W. Chapman (became lieutenant-colonel of second regiment) ;
First Lieutenant, Z. Dimmick; Second Lieutenant, James M. Morrill; Sergeants,
Lvman S. Kellogg, William Wells, Abijah Ives, Thomas Cozad; Corporals, William
A. Allen, Abraham (". Langdon, Johnson B. Gough, Joseph S. Reid; Privates, Simon
H. AUensworth, George H. Burtgess, R. Butler, Edward Breen, William Barr, Clayton
F. Bramlet, Benjamin Brattain, John Burrington, C. A. Bartrutt, Henry Casey,
Tliomas Chapman, James F. Cooper, G. J. Chapman, Daniel Craft, Alexander
Canautt, William Canautt, William Davis, R. D. Dimmick, Solomon Ensley, A. P.
Frayer, John Frayer, James Farmer, James Fraim, J. Crosby Fitzgerald, David W.
Frarey, Levi Gant, James L. Garrett, Edward Griffin, William Golden, Francis
Geiger, Addison C. Gibbs, Calvin B. Green, George Greenwald, Charles G. Hindei-er,
William Hubbard, A. T. Howard, William W. Haynes, Clark Hudson, Ira M. Haiuia,
Joseph Hudson, William Hilbert, William Hathaway, R. :\I. Hutdiinson, Peter
Johnson, George Kuntz, Levi Kent, James F. Levens, Z. Levens, J. A. Landes,
Tliomas Levens, Ansel Langdon, James ]McKinney, John jNIarshall, William
jSIcKearns, James McDonald, James McGranery, John Nicholson, W. R. Pattei'son,
George Paine, Benton H. Pyburn, Samuel Rich, William Robertson, Thomas Stuttered,
George W. Snyder, Andrew Sawyer, James F. Savery, S. R. Slayton, Jackson Swar-
engen, John Sawyer, S. E. Smith, M. R. Shar])e, ]Madison Scoby, Edward Spicer,
Daniel Test, Henry Thornton, D. C. Underwood, Ansel Wcatlierby, L. L. Williams,
H. H. Woodward, John P. Wiggins.

Company T. — Re-enlisted January 18, 185(3; discharged May 14, 1850 — Captain,
W. W. Cliuiiniau; First Lieutenant, S. S. Kellooi.-; Second Lieutenant. Ansel

290 INDIAN AVARS.

Weatherby; Sergeants, Heurv Tlioniton, Henry W. Woodward, William Robertson,
W. F. Clingan; Corporals, Benton H. Pybnrn, Jacob Pittman, Abel J. Howard,
William McKearns; Privates, W. A. Allen, Eli Allen, B. Brattaiu, William Brainard,
W. F. Bay, James G. Chapman, Thomas Chapman, W. W. Chapman, Jr., W. H.
Crouch, William Canauld, William F. Clingan, William Cummins, W. H. Chajiliue,
T. Dayon, J. W. Gordon, J. B. GoflP, William Hilbert, M. B. Holmbs, James Hilburn,
J. A. Landes, J. J. Mitchell, William Patterson, Jolin H. Pope, Evans Smith, Wil-
liam Smith, Thomas Stoddard, Milo Taylor, William Theil, James Terrell, S. S.
Williams.

Company A. — (First recruiting battalion.) — Clustered at Roseburg, February 8,
1856 ; discharged May 20, 1856 — Captain Edward Sheffield ; First Lieutenant, S. S. J.
Bunteu ; Second Lieutenant, E. Capron ; Sergeants, S. H. Mastin, John Farleigh, R.
G. Hadley, J. G. Belieu; Corporals, John Xoah, N. Farris,- Thos. Paul, W. R. Robin-
son ; Privates, E. P. Anderson, D. Anderson, A. H. Brown, S. Belieu, James Bean, L.
Bird, J. M. Baker, J. V. Bradley, H. Clifton, J. Cobble, G. Cox, Jesse Davenport, W.
Dooley, F. ^NI. Ellsworth, J. C. Fitzgerald, B. F. Frewel, D. M. Gilman, James Harris,
S. Livingston, J. Livingston, J. D. B. Lee, Peter McKinney, J. M. McKiuney, M. C.
McCloud, L. M. McCray, W. McKnight, J. McKinney, P. G. Masters, S. M. Masters,
E. McElwain, John Pierce, E. Painter, H. Rideuham, James Stewart, W. Silver, John
Siwash, John Spence, A. Thompson, A. H. Woodruff.

CojiPANY B (First recruiting battalion) — Mustered in February 18, 1856;
discharged June 18, 1856 — Captain, Abel George; First Lieutenant, William H.
Chapline; Second Lieutenant, G. C. Vanlandingham ; Sergeants, Byron X. Dalbes,
Ezra Smith, F. D. Chapline, A. J. Doty; Corporals, Columbus White, William
Dennis, John Mitchell, Willson W. Sharp; Privates, Jesse Adams, George W. Black-
well, A. B. Buttolph, Isaac Carson, Stanford Capps, Jacob Colclosure, F. G. Collins,
A. E. Colwell, John Chandler, George W. Cups, Robert Davis, Peter DeMoss,
William Ellsworth, John Evens, J. H. Fanning, J. A. Freeman, S. A. Harding,
Thomas Hays, George S. Hays, C. H. Horn, R. Jackson, John Jones, Henry Kennedy,
Thomas Latham, Donna Lascreaux, Ormsby McKean, Peter Meeds, John McCartney,
S. McMillen, H. D. Mount, Thomas Patten, M. S. Pedeu, F. Quabey, Lawson T.
Reid, F. M. Rliodes, J. F. Richardson, George Robinson, Frances Sackett, Frederick
Saddler, William Shanks, Richard Smith, A. J. Tomas, George S. Thompson, Geoi'ge
AV. Thurmon, William Watts, J. Woodward, Willson C. Wilcox, A. Wyland.

Company C (First recruiting battalion) — Mustered in February 19, 1856; dis-
charged May 21, 1856 — Captain, Michael Bushey; First Lieutenant, Samuel C.
Nicholson; Second Lieutenant, Henry B. Conroy; Sergeant, Aaron R. Dead wood;
Privates, J. G. Adams, J. M. Anderson, Henry J. Ammons, David Brenan, Erben
E. Bozarth, Tomas Bozarth, Atchinson Blackwood, E. B. Ball, J. C. Cox, John H.
Colclosure, Samuel Christelier, Sewyel Cox, George C. Clay, Peter Cook, Robert
Davis, George Densmore, Jasper A. Daniels, Edward H. Day, Alfred H. Fisher,
Henry Gordon, David M. Groom, Henry Green, Dempsey Hamilton, Henry Jones,
William Lane, Adam Linn, Jacob jNIiller, William McGloughlin, William McMahon,
Guilbert Parker, James M. Pyle, C. B. Roland, Wently Roop, James Strong, Seth
Smith, Peter O. Smith, William J. Tracy, W. G. Winningham, Anderson Williams,
A. I. Watts, T. G. Winningham, Geo)-ge Wood, T. 1). Wright.

INDIAN WARS. 291

Company D. — (First recruiting battalion.) Mustered February 27, at Camp Stewart;
discharged May 26, 1856 — Captain M. M. Williams ; First Lieutenant, J. A. Carter ;
Second Lieutenant, George B. Curry ; Sergeants, Joseph Tracy, A. D. Lake, Merritt
Bellinger, Abner Miner; Corporals, S. J. Southerland, Samuel Clayton, W. M. Little,
Denis Crawley; Privates, Charles Anderson, J. K. Applegate, John Albon, B. L.
Buttey, W. F." Burns, J. B. Burns, D. P. Brittain, Thos. .J. Bayless, E. Blodget, J. B.
Bi-aman, W. Churchill, John Churchill, T. M. Cameron, P. W. Cook, J. Dickens, H.
Dixon, J. P. Delk, G. E. Enos, B. F. Elliott, S. Eager, E. Frost, H. B. Fowler, R. R.
Gates, Alex. Harris, A. C. Harrison, J. Johnson W. Lampson, J. R. Little, C. Links-
wiler, T. Lamberson, L. Little, A. Lee, J. J. Murphy, S. Mooney, Ira Moody M. Mc-
Lane, R. S. McMullin, A. C. Nelson, W. Newcomb, E. B. Poland, W. F. Pearman, F.
Pierson, F. M. Rhoades, J. Rhoades, Alex. Rainey, W. M. Southerland, A. W.Stingent,
M. G. Sellers, G. S. Smith, W. A. Stinger, Alex. Thompson, E. Taber, James Terrell,
D. Tryon, S. M. Wait, Moses Warner.

Company A. — (Second recruiting battalion). Mustered February lo, 1856 ; dis-
cliarged June 10, 1856 — Captain, Wm. H. Latshaw (promoted to Major March 19); First
Lieutenant, J. M. Wallan (became Captain March 19) ; Second Lieutenant, Charles
W. McClure ; Sergeants, J. L. White, John Duvall, John Wilson, Dennis Prick ett;
Corporals, David Wilson, William Cox, F. M. Mansfield, J. C. Templeton ; Privates,
W. Allen, R. C. Breeding, E. H. Baber, R. D. Cotton, Wm. Crow, Benjamin Cox, D.
B. Cooley, John Collins, J. F. Duuiway, John Dodson, M. Emrick, J. W. Funk, J.
Galbraith, J. R. Gist, J. R. Hays, G. W. Howard, H. P. Holmes, A. Haney, Vi. R.
Jones, Jonathan Keeney, Jas. Lapham, A. S. McClure, Bobt. Matheny, J. H. McCord,
A. J. McClure, John Miller, John McCall, James Petrie, William Privitt, D. H. Put-
nam, W. H. Peck, Mahlon Petrie, M. C. Pettyjohn, R. S. Shook, Conrad Stuygle, W-
W. Shortridge, J. P. Taylor, C. W. Tedrow, J. B. Thompson, William Wilson.

Company B. — (Second recruiting battalion). Mustered February 18, 1856; dis-
charged June 21, 1856 — Captain, John Kelser (promoted to Colonel ; succeeded by W.
J. Robertson); First Lieutenant, J. L. Combs; Second Lieutenant, Comedon S. Lura ;
Sergeants, J. W. Chisholm, Thomas Clemmins, M. Adams, W. C. Jasper ; Corporals,
James S. Phillips, Morgan Lillard, William Ownsby, A. F. Ragsdale ; Privates, W.
H. Anderson, John F. Baird, Carroll Baird, Robert S. Barclay, Robert Bolan, C. P.
Blair, John T. Craigg, James Casner, J. M. Creswell, H. M. Childers, Reuben Fields,
W. R. Fontain, Nicholas Feldwert, T. J. Goe, Ulysses Garred, G. W. Goodman, A. J.
Hayden, G. W. Hayden, Richard B. Hays, Martin Humber, T. D. Hintou, J. B. Hen-
derson, William Hiester, J. M. James, John C. Lloyd, William Lambdeu, Thomas
McBee, J. K. McCormack, F. M. Mathews, E. Marple, James ]McCallister, W. A.
Mulvaney, Newton Mulvaney, L. W. Mulvaney, John McCullock, John ^Marshall, S.
jNIcConnell, Thomas Mulkey, David Nesley, Edward Necly, Powell Ownsley, Cyrus
Powers, Thomas Pyburn, A. Richards(jn, Hiram Richardson, J. M. Richardson, S. V.
Robinson, J. A. Robinson R. II. Randidl, Joseph Slover, James Spears, M. A. Starr,
S. E. Starr, S.C. Shannan, William Stringer, William Splan, William Skein, Benjamin
Trimble,Robert G.Thompson, J. A. Thompson, P. C. Thompson, William S. Turnlow,
Evan Taylor.

Company C (Second recruiting battalion).— Mustered in March 2'.», at Eugene
Citv; discliar-eil Julv :5, 1S5(;— Cai.tain, 1). W. Kcitli: First Lieutenant. L. ('. Haw-

292 INDIAN WARS.

ley; Second Lieutenant, Jesse Cox; Sergeants, H. C. Huston, J. E. Kirkland, James
Siden, George Morris; Corporals, G. H. Baker, John Robinson, Jesse B. Sitton, S.
Gardner; Privates, William Allen, J. H. Alexander, T. N. Baker, O. Baird, J. T.
Bowden, J. M. Brown, J. M. Brower, J. Bonser, O. Bates, H. A. Coston, A. J. Conard,
D. S. Davis, M. Eecleston, J. M. Gale, J. N. Gale, J. C. Gray, Aaron Gardner, W.
P. (iardner, J. A. Hays, E. Hammett, J. Hendricks, Adam Herbert, P. Higginbotham,
Thomas Harson, Robert Harson, William Hyde, John Hutchins, A. A. King, A.
J. Kirkland, John Jones, B. C. Mciitee, Samuel Matheny, J. McClarnie, L. B.
Munson, S. B. Mathers, Josiah McBee, S. H. McBee, E. L. Masssey, George W.
Miller, B. F. Mounts, Thurston Pettj-johu, J. Robinson, M. Robinson, J. B. Riley,
C. F. Robberson, W. L. Rogers, M. Smith, W. P. Skinner, C. C. Smith, T. B.
Southworth, J. N. Sharpe, John Skeen, John Taylor, William Taylor, John Taylor,
John Warner, Benjamin Zumwalt.

Prathee's Spy Company, — Mustered at Deer Creek, March 6, 1856; discharged
May 15, 1856 — Captain, Thomas Prather; First Lieutenant, Henry Shrura; Second
Lieutenant, John Price; Sergeant, Edwin Morgan; Corporal, T. J. Singleton;
Privates, Thomas Anderson, S. Blakeley, Andy Chapman, Josei^h Embree, William
Eaton, H. Everman, George Finch, J. Fordyce, J. French, I. J. Hinkle, L. Hale, H.
Hoskins, G. Lawrence, R. Long, C. C. McClendon, J. S. Noland, M. Nolaud, Y.
Oden, A. V. Oden, M. Pervely, J. Simmons, H. Smith, P. YanSlyke, E. F. Whist-
ler, James Watson, Daniel Walker, Enoch Wimberly, Robert Willis.

Guess' Minute Company. — Mustered at Fort Hay, Illinois valley, May 1, 1856;
discharged June 20, 1856 — Captain, John Guess; First Lieutenant, Asher Moore;
Second Lieutenant, Stephen Coleman; Sergeants, B. Kinchloe, W. J. Cross, W. S.
Gibbs, John McCord; Corporals, Peter McClinchy, F. Sebastian, E. S. Fite, Alfred
Dousitt, Thomas Arnett, Edward Evans, F. H. Freeman, A. J. Henderson, C. R.
Hanaford, James Hope, John Heron, Charles Hook, J. A. M. Harned, J. Hamilton,
U. C. Knight, B. Newman, W. Patterson, N. Pennaman, D. Post, J. D. Post, H. A.
Plummer,W. Plummer, E. Mulkey, J. Miller, Charles Martin, J.Mendenhall,S. Mooney,
P. Mulkey, John McDowd, J. Kirby, J. R. Reves, Lenoir Reves, G. L. Reed,^V. Ross, M.
Rothchild, Harvey Shaw, George Sing, E. Z. Taner, A. P. Turner, F. M. Vliet, G. M.
White, J. G. Wood.

Looking-glass Guards. — Organized April 12, 1856 — Captain, Daniel Williams;
First Lieutentant, William K. Stark; Second Lieutenant, AVilliam Cochran; Privates,
James M. Arrington, Samuel W. K. Applegate, Willis Alden, John P. Boyer, Levi
Ballard, William Cochran, Roland Flournoy, Jr., Jones Flournoy, Samuel S.
Halpain, John H. Hartin, Nathaniel Huntley, Joseph Huntley, Daniel Huntley^
Alexander M. Johnson, Frederick Mitchell, Hilry A. Mitchell, Franklin Mitchell,
Edmund F. McNall, Ambrose Newton, Abbot L. Todd, Franklin White, George W.
Williams, Jefferson Williams, Milton W. AVilliams, Peter W. Williams.

(ioLD Beach Guards. — Mustered March 13, 1856; discharged , 185(j —

Captain, Elisha H. Meservey; First Lieutenant, Joseph McVey; Second Lieutenant.
Joseph Griffith; Privates, W. Allen Thomas Baker, Frank Bugy, Joseph Cruse, C,
Claser, D. R. S. Daley; J. L. Garrett, E. A. Lane, Simon Lundy, S. Monte, John
O'Regan, August Richards, J. W. Svkes, W. Smith, John Thomas, J. K. Vincent, O.
AV. AVeam, Fred AVellor, John AVilson.

INDIAN WARS. 293

Roll of thk Ninth Reulmext, ()i:e(;(>x MiLmA. — Colonel, John E. Ross;
Lieutenant-Colonel, Major, ; Adjutant, Charles S. Drew.

Company A. — Mustered October 10, 1855; discharged November 26, 1855 —
Captain, T. S. Harris; First Lieutenant, A. M. Berry; Second Lieutenant, G. W.
Manvill; Sergeants, J. M. Sutton, J. L. Ware, John Shooman, Thomas Hall;
Corporals, W^ C. Butler, O. F. Sanford, William Ornduff, O. P. Brumby; Privates,
L. F. Allen, R. S. Allen, Charles Armstrong, B. Burruss, James Bourk, A. Bethel,
M. C. Barkwell, A. A. Buzzell, J. B. Coats, J. H. Deadmond, William Daflin,
William Dorn, J. R. Enos, A. C. Funkhouser, Louis Furgason, John Gunn, John
Goldsby, Thomas Gill, C. B. Hinton, William Hamilton, William Hay, B. G. Henry,
I). W. Helm, A. Helms, William Hand, John Johnson, J. M. Johns, Charles F. Kroft,
Charles Kimball, L. G. LinviU, Eli Ledford, J. B. Little, F. F. Loche, W. I. Mayfield,
A. J. Nalin, G. S. Nichols, Robert Opp, Thomas Ord, William Pernell, J. A. Pedigo,
Benjamin Person, William Penington, S. Rathburn, J. M. Raburn, W. C Riggs,
William Smith, S. B. Sorles, Peter Saling, Samuel Smith, William White, John
Winingham, Martin Wingood, E. Yager."

Company C. — Mustered October 10, 1855; discharged November 21, 1855 —
Captain, Jacob S. Rinearson; First Lieutenant, William P. Wing; Second Lieutenant,
U. L. Woodford; Sergeants, Thomas R. Evens, Daniel Boone, Elisha M. Reavis;
Privates, James A. Abbutt, John W. Bucklis, George Brown, Isaac Bentley, Peter
Brown, Rufus H. Bernan, John Billings, William Ballard, John Bankenship, E. C.
Bray, John Casner, John Creighton, Wm. H. Crouch, Job Denning, Ichobod Dodson,
James C. Dickey, F. Duniway,Tomas East, John Fortune,AVilliam Geiney, Clement S.
Glasgow, R. AV. Henry, A. G. Henry, David W. Inman, Charles Johnson, John
Junker, William S. King, Martin C. Leslie, Robert Lang, James W. Lanber, William
Lear, John G. Minot, Carick G. Minot, Enoch Miller, George B. Miller, Jacob W.
Miller, John McCasy, Levi Notte, James Pearcy, John V. Pinkerton, Robert C.
Percival, William B. Phillips, Jackson Reynolds, F. M. Roman, John Redfield,
Samuel P. Strange, B. Sargeant, Labin Saunders, Henry Smith, Charles B. Tooth-
acher, Francis M. Thibbits, E. N. Thomas, Samuel Tillard, William F. Woodford,
Henry Wisbrook, George Wood, John D. Wright, Ephram Yager, Henry Yooum.

Company D. — Mustered October 12, 1855; discharged November 9,',1855 — Cap-
tain, R. L. Williams ; First Lieutenant, E. B. Stone ; Second Lieutenant, H. O'Neal ;
Sergeants, G. A. Edes, W. J. Mathews, G. Blake, R. :Moore; Corporals, R. C. Brewer,
A. Morse, J. Lee, S. Cornelius; Privates, B. Armstrong, M. C. Barkwell, H. H. Bar-
rett, M. Baughman, B. B. Brockway, D. Briggs, J. Cristy, H. K. Covert, J. Cheney,
N. Courter, J. Curtain, G. Delaney, A. J. Driskell, J. C. S. Davis, J. Dickerson, G.
Dinsmore, J. Dugdale, J. P. Davidson, M. Emerich, J. J. Elliotte, H. H. Epps, G. R.
Elliott, A. Fuller, L. Felton, J. P. Frizzell, R. Gammill, R. Gaddis, J. C. Graves, L.
Gates, J. Howell, G. Holten, J. R. Hale, S. Hawkins, J. B. Hutton, S. S. Inman, J.
Jones, J. Kent, C. liOvel, V. Mullen, John Miller, T. Martin, S. R. Myres, S. Alooney,
M. M. Melvin, T. E. McKoin, V. Neil, J. Parder, M. Parsley, W. B. Previtt, ^y. Pen-
ington, J. Russel, T. Ryan, W. Showdy, L. Scoller, ii. W. Sloan, W. Stannus, H. W.
Stainton, J. Slates, J. Sohermerhurn, W. Toney, J. C. Ward, J. Wilson, J. Winter, C.
Walker, H. Wilson, J. Woolen, R. Woods. I). M. Yates.

29i INDIAN WARS.

Company E. — Mustered October 12, 1855 ; discharged Captain, William

B. Lewis ; First Lieutenant, William A. J. Moore ; Second Lieutenant, William White;
Sergeants, John G. Adams, Alex. D. McJess, William Gibson ; Privates, Israel D.
Adams, George W. Bramlet, Milton Blacklidge, William P. Chesher, John Cooper
W. G. Crandall, J. Collins, John G. Butcher, Allen Evans, I. Elliott, Harvey Evans,
John Erixson, John W. Gannaway, John Grosbois, Joseph McGahao, Josephus
Hosier, Jacob Hershberger, Henry S. Jones, Joseph Umpqua, Louis Dunois, Tiraoleon
Love, Edward Neely, James Neely, William Pruitt, J. W. Pickett, John Roberts, E.
D. Smith, Adam Shough, Christolier Samuel, Samuel Sanders, Benjamin Tufts, J. L.
Thompson, Evans Taylor, Thomas Wilson, J. E. White, George Weeks, Anderson
Williams, W. R. Walker, A. S. Walker.

Company F. — Mustered October 13, 1855 ; discharged November 13, 1855 —
Captain, A. S. Weltou ; First Lieutenant, Angus Brown ; Second Lieutenant, V. H.
Davis ; Sergeants, J. C. London, John Hultz, David Rathborn ; Privates, George W.
Anderson, M. D. Ballard, Wm. Barton, J. D. Bennett, S. Butcher, W. N. Ballard,
Joseph Copeland, Joseph Carter, George Cherry, J. J. Charlton, C. A. Charlton,
J. T. Farley, John Finnin, James Hawkins, J. H. Hasper, John Kennedy,
Richard Kelly, Mellis Kelly, F. F. Locher, J. B. Layton, A. J. Long, Isaac Miller,
N. N. Matlock, W. K. Minot, Edmund Magruder, J. B. Nichols, J. F. Noland,
Henry Pearl, John Richards, George Ross, Clinton Schieffelin, E. Sharp, John Smith,
James Stewart, David Tompson, Z. Van Orman, Thomas Warmon, Charles Williams,
Stephen Watson.

Company' G. — Mustered into service Octol)er 11, 1855; mustered out November ■
10, 1855 — Captain, Miles F. Alcorn ; First Lieutenant, James M. Matney ; Second
Lieutenant, John Osborn ; Sergeants, S. J. Day, Thos. Bailey ,Thos. Walker, Thos. Mc-
Lain; Corporals, A. W. A. McConnell, Edwd. Cose, Saml. C. Nicholson, Jas. Tucker ;
Privates, Thomas L. Arnot, Levy Allison, Caleb Bailey, Washington Bailey, David
Butterfield, Luzern Bradley, Squire Bueher, D. N. Birdseye, F. G. Birdseye, William
Brockus, Newman Bartlett, George Black, Henry B. Conroy, Champion Collier,
William Collier, Wiley Cash, J. K. Colwell, George W. Cherry, John Cose, Thomas
Coates, Andrew J. Cooper, Peter Cook, Freeman Chandler, George E. Chapel, David
Clemens, Granderson Curtis, James W. Collins, Edward W. Day, William Decker,
James F. Davis, Allen Evans, Menry P. Gordon, Philip GrifF, Owen Hojikins, Demp-
sey Hamilton, Simeon Hardin, O. D. Hoxie, Moses Hopwood, Miller Judd, Richard
Jones, Isaac B. Kauflfman, George Long, Jacob Lswellen, William Lane, Allen B.
Moser, James Miller, David Mall, Constantine Magruder, Edmond Magruder, Benja-
min McKeen, Simeon McFall, Tomas McBurney, William McClain, Daniel Newcomb,
William T. Newcomb, Martin C. Newcomb, Ortegrel C. Newcomb, Felix O'Neal.
William Patterson, James M. Patterson, W. B. Philips, Calvin Paris, A. Jackson
Rader, Samuel Reeder, David Ruminer, Joseph Swingle, Benjamin Snipes, James
Savage, Clinton Schieffelin, P. R. Sanderson, Hiram Taylor, Isaac Vanderhorn, John
Wineland.

Company J. — Mustered October 20, 1855 ; discharged November 16, 1855 — Cap-
tain, Thomas Smith; First Lieutenant, John R. Helman ; Second Lieutenant, Turuey
G. Condrie ; Sergeants, Bennet Million, Robert Hargadine, Samuel Clayton ; Privates,
William Alevand, John Buckingham, William Bunyard, Thomas Barrett, James Bar

INDIAN WARS. 295

rett, John A. Eachman, A. Barr, B. F. Davis, Kichard Evens, Eber Emery, J. Emery
Asa Fordise, L. C Geary, J. A. Harvey, Jacob Huffman, A. D. Helmau, Sol. Holman,
J. M. Johnson, James Kilgore, Hard. Knutzson, W. E. Laynes, William Miller, Jack-
son Million, Masters, Michael Michealson, W. L. Morris, J. M. McCall, William

McCommon, M. Newhouse, William Pitinger, John Eoberts, Ferdinand Stiners, Wil-
liam F. Songer, David Smith, James Toland, John Tucker, William Train, Giles
Wells, John Wise, Isaac Woolen, John Walker, John Watson.

Company K.— Mustered October 1(3, 18o5j discharged November 21, ISoo

Captain, S. A. Frye; First Lieutenant, James Hornbuckle; Second Lieutenant, Thomas
Moore ; Sergeants, Charles Abraham, John Guess, Christian Tuttle ; Privates, James
Ailsher, Urban E. Bozarth, Christian Billafelt, Joseph Barker, Michael Boon, T.
Bozarth, Abraham Cole, T. DeHaven, Charles M. Dwelley, John L. Frye, William
Finch, A. W. Foggy, John Gould, J. W. Galbraith, H. Henspetei', William Heaverloe,
Patrick Haloran, John McGrew, John Meter, Samuel Parks, Frank Pierson, Napoleon
Ramsey, James M. Roberts, David Sexton, Peter Snellback, Seth Smith, Henry Tomp-
son, A. J. Whitsette, Charles Ward, Alex. Watts, J. J. Witter.

Company L. — Mustered October 18, 1855; discharged November 21, 1855 — Cap-
tain, Abel George; First Lieutenant, Thomas Hays ; Second Lieutenant, Stephen Betts;
Sergeants, J.M. Cranmer, J. H. Kirkpatrick, W. H. Case, T. N. Ballard; Privates, N.

B. Bond, J. W. Chaffee, William Cogle, G. H. Church, A. J. Case, A. J. Doty, Wil-
liam Elworth, W. L. Freemon, D. Fousley, A. Gage, A. M. Graham, Thomas Green-
field, W. Gerick, C. R. Hicks, Edwin Heffs, H. Hawes, F. J. Higginson, A. S. Isaacs,
R. II. Johnson, J. II. Lamand, Victor Lychlinski, Alexander Lee. James Ogg, J. W.
Pate, Henry il. Richardson, E. H. Richardson John Ragsdell, Clinton Stetson, J. M.
Shaw, George Stout, R. L. Smith, J. W. Selby, D. W. Van IMai'tin, George C. Van
Landingham, William Warden.

Company N. — Mustered October 26, 1855; discharged November 21, 1S55— Cap-
tain, Orise F. Root; First Lieutenant, J. W. Scott; Second Lieutenant, Burde P. Pott;
Sergeants, C. P. Sprague, Isaac N. Knight, J. W. Pinnell, J. W. Donning ; Privates,
John Axtell, Thomas Arnett, D. W. Beckley, J. G. Brious, William Brockus, \. J.
Cutberth, W. W. Cox, James W. Doning, J. F. Davis, Robert Duckworth, H. I)e(iraff,
Bernard Fisher, John Goings, Z. M. Goodale, J. M. Hay, Jarvis J. Hay, W. M. Hyde,
A. J. Henderson, William Jump, Isaac N. Knight, James Kelly, T. R. Lawson, Jacob
Lewellen J. W. Pattrich, J. W. Pinnell, W. M. Pollock, Burd Pott, Calvin Parris,
Alexander M. Rainey, G. H. Reeves, J. R. Reeves, John Sargent, Charles F. Sharp,

C. P. Sprague, J. W. Scott, John Twentyman, A. J. Vincent.

Company — . — Mustered October 27 ; discharged November Hi, 1855 — Captain,
M. P. Howard; First Lieutenant, Daniel Richardson; Second Lieutenant, H. M.
Conroy; Sergeants, Israel T. Mann, G. A. Thomas, John Cathey, Lycurgus Bozarth ;
Corporals, N. J. Walker, Nicholas H.Martin, John Cathey, N. R. Mulvaney; Privates,
John Bowers, James Black, John Burns, Elzey Bird, William Clemens, Lozenzo
Coppers, Pulaski Hall, P. H. Harper, Gill Hultz,"Fli Judd, John H. Johnson, Thomas
Lake, William Lamson, Joseph Allies, John Mayfield, James McClenney, David
Phillips, John Price, D. F. Perkins, Jakob Rounderbush, Joseph Steel, Goldsmith
Tear, Georo-e Toai-.

INDIAN WARS.

CoMPAXY — . — Mustered October 10, 1855; discharged November 9, 1855 —
Captain, James Bruce; First Lieutenant, E. A. Rice; Second Lieutenant, Joseph F.
Anderson; Sergeants, Ebenezer Pinkham, R. R. Gates, Francis Pickle, John Haley;
Corporals, George W. Collins, Elijah A¥illiams, James C. Dickey, John B. McBride;
Privates, Oliver P. Corbett, Dennis Crowley, John Coleman, Lewis Calhoun, D. R.
Crocker, John C. Cottrell, Garret Fitzgerald, Charles L. Fee, Daniel F. Fisher, C. C.
Goodwin, Aaron Greenbaum, James Hayes, E. Hereford, James Hereford, J. F.
Hamilton, Alexander Harris ,William A .Hall, Moses H. Hopwood, John N. Lewis, R.
S. Munn, A. H. Matthew, Nathan Milton, Chauncey Nye, Sylvester Pease, William
Pasley, William Pengra, Nathaniel Rice, August Rumbel, George Stapper, Samuel
H. Smith, A. R. Smith, John W. Short, Bluford Stanton, Lewis Sagers, Alexander
Thompson, John W. Wood, J. H. Wassum.

Poet Orfoed Minute Hex. — Mustered March 26; discharged June 25, 1856 —
Captain, John Creighton; First Lieutenant, George Yount; Second Lieutenant,
William Rollard; Sergeants, Nelson Stevens, Alexander Jones, Samuel Yount,
Thomjison Lowe; Corporals, Peter Ruffner, John Herring, George White, Thomas
Jamison; Privates, E. Bray, George Barber, Edward Burrows, Preston Caldwell, E.
Cutching, E. Cunningham, John T. Dickson, George Dyer, Aai-on Dyer, H. M.
Davidson, George Dean, Warren Fuller, Joseph Goutrain, Andrew Hubert, D W.
Haywood, Josejih Hall, Thomas Johnson, Richard Johnson, T. G. Kirkpatrick,
William Taylor, James Malcolm, L. Parker, James Saunders, Charles Setler, George
P. Sullivan, Louis Turner, W. W. Waters, Charles Wiiislow, William White, John
Wilson.

CoQViLLE Guards. — In service from November 6, 1855, to December 28, 1855;
mustered at Fort Catching — Captain, W. H. Packwood; First Lieutenant, J. B. Hill;
Sergeants, J. G. Malcolm, Evan Cunningham; Corporals, Charles W. Wood, A. "NV".
Davis; Privates, George Barber, Isaac Bingham, William Bagley, J. Bray, E.
Catching, G. J. Cooper, J. J. Cooper, Preston Caldwell, William Cooley, F. McCue,
J. B. Dulley, William Duke, Samuel Darlington, John B. David, J. A. Harry,
Abram Huffman, David Hull, Alex. Jones, W. H. Jackson, Benjamin Tarrigan, Henry
Miller, Lewellyn Oliver, A. Pence, R. G. Phillips, William Roland, James W. Rooks,
John S. Sweet, Charles Settle, W. Waters.

In this enumeration the companies of Buoy, Keeney, Bledsoe, Robertson, Blakely
and Barnes of the second regiment, and of Thomas J. Gardner, M. M. Williams, W.
A. Wilkinson, W. H. Harris,"" Stephen Coffin, J. G. Powell and W. S. Buckley of the
ninth regiment are omitted because of the loss of their muster-rolls. The total strength
of the two regiments is shown in the following table, which sets forth the number of
officers and men in service on the twentieth of each month during the war of 1855-6:

liii

a g

i -1 -

4 ; 4

912 518

3 2 2
807 913 663

326

1 EAr-,

217
880

7
901

_,

~

Total Force

1,097

908

916 522

810 915 665

328

-■

11-,.

W.G.f Vault.

SOUTHERN OREGON

CHAPTER XXX \.

DESCRIPTION, CLIMATE AND EARLY HISTORY.

Extent of Southern Oregon -Forests of Timber— Supply of Water. Fish and Game -Climate —Meteorological
Statistics -Population— Early History -Smith and McLeod— Wilkes Exploring Expedition— The Applegate
Trail.

The district which by coiumoii acceptance has become kuowii as Southern Oregon,
embraces the five counties of Douglas, Coos, Jackson, Josephine and Curry. It is
bounded on the west by the Pacific ocean ; on the south it borders the California line ;
the Cascade range interposes between it and Eastern Oregon ; while northwardly the
region terminates in the Calapooia mountains and their prolongations, which separate
the wafters of the Willamette from those of the Unipqua. The shape of Southern
Oregon roughly approaches a square, the principal divergence being in its north side,
which runs northwesterly. The coast line is about one hundred and fifty miles long ;
the southern side one hundred miles; the eastern, or mountain boundary, about eighty-
five miles ; and the northern side of the quadrilateral sometliing near one hundred and
twenty miles. Its total area is nearly twelve thousand square miles. This immense
tract is divided by nature into two large and many small valleys separated by hills and
mountain chains, rendering the country in the highest degree diversified. The larger
valleys are those of the Umpqua and Rogue rivers — names celebrated in the history of
Oregon, and in the future to be still more widely known as the abode of a numerous
and fortunate people.

To most of the mountain ranges intersecting tliese valleys names have been given,
and particular peaks have also received designations. Thus to tlie northeastward the
Calapooia mountains form the water-shed which separates the streams fiowiug into the
Umpqua from those entering the Coast Fork and the Middle Fork of the Willamette.
Blount Thielsen, or Cow-horn peak, stands near the point of intersection of tliat range
with the Cascade mountains, and forms, as it were, the keystone of the whole j-ange.
This remarkable peak attains a height of 9,250 feet and bears a crown of snow through-
out the year. It forms one of the most conspicuous objects in the whole range, and is
in some respects superior to Mount Hood although its height is more than 2,000 feet less.
It is especially remarkable as the center of several mountain systems which uniting at
its base penetrate we.-t, north and snutli. The spurs wliicli trend to the west, north-

298 SOUTHEEN OEEGON.

west and southwest sink down as they proceed until they are lost in the hills of the
Umpqua valley. These minor ranges, spreading like a fan, inclose pleasant valleys and
deep canyons drained by clear and rapid streams, which, rising in the upper regions,
run downward toward the sea, rapidly at first, over bowlders and precipices, slower as
they pass through winding valleys and finally approaching and ending in Umpqua
and Rogue rivers. In the mingled mass of mountains around about majestic Theilsen
a number of important rivers have their birth. Almost at its base gush forth waters
which, running in many devious courses, seek the ocean by various mouths. Within
the shadow of the mountain lie lakes Crescent, Odell and Diamond. From the two
former proceed streams which, flowing onward to the DesChutes river, keep a northerly
course and reach the Columbia above The Dalles. From Diamond lake rises the
North Umpqua, and from the gorges southwest therefrom the South Umpqua takes its
rise, the two rivers to come together in the pleasant Umpqua valley and enter the
ocean after flowing a generally westerly course. Again from Summit lake, a dozen
miles north from Theilsen, the Middle fork of the Willamette springs, and after join-
ing the main stream empties into the Columbia a hundred miles from the ocean. Close
by the sources of the Umpqua and springing from the same great water shed which, as
we have seen, nourishes the germs of so many rivers, the headwaters of Rogue river
rise, and find their way down by devious ways to the ocean, the general course of the
upper part of the river being southwest. Nor does this list comprise all the streams
which have their birth in this remarkable region. Certain afiiuents of Klamath river
and Klamath lake, namely. Wood, Seven-mile, and Annie creeks, head in these moun-
tains. Thus the waters which spring forth from the sides of Theilsen and the neigh-
boring peaks flow to every point of the compass. Before their course is run and they
find rest in the Pacific they have traversed and watered the most fertile valleys of
Oregon and Northern California. They have turned the wheels or borne the com-
merce of scores of counties and bestowed blessings upon widely different localities. The
Rogue and Umpqua rivers, after rising almost within stone's throw of each other, end
their courses in the broad Pacific at a distance of over ninety miles apart-

As seen from a high elevation the region under discussion does not by any means
jiresent the appearance generally accorded to it. Instead of large valleys or plains of
level land fringed on either hand by the Cascades and the Coast Range, the country
consists of a very large number of small valleys separated by mountain ranges of various
heights and drained by creeks which find their tortuous way into the two principal
streams. The separating ranges, instead of conforming to a general trend, seem to fol-
low no fixed rule in that regard, and do not coincide with each other in any degree.
Thus the country is exceedingly broken and its local divisions are almost innumerable.
The observer would be particularly struck with the extent of the forest-clad surface.
He would see that the trees cover by far the greater part of the entire region, only the
broader valleys, bottom lands, and side-hills being to any extent free from timber and
underbrush. On the west he would observe the extensive system of the Coast Range
covered with dark forests of fir which extend to the sea coast. On the eastern boundary
the Cascade mountains, clothed almost to the summit with noble forests, cut off the
view in that direction.

SOUTHERN OREGON. 299

Tlie dividing ridge of the Cascades lies at a distance of nitlier more than one hun-
dred miles from the coast, to which it is parallel. The Coast Range, which also follows
approximately the ocean line, has its highest summits at about one-fourth the distance
mentioned. The irregularity of the latter range is very striking. The Umpqua and
Rogue rivers have forced their way through the solid sandstone mountains, whose preci-
pices frown over their waters. The height of the Coast Range hardly exceeds one-
third that of the snow peaks of the Cascades, nor is its base spread out over so great
an area.

The country lying on the western slope of the Coast Range possesses a distinctive
eliaracter. Its width varies from five to thirty-five miles, according to the trend of the
mountains; its surface is much broken, and is divided laterally by numerous streams,
whose valleys constitute nearly all the arable land of this narrow strip. The climate is
oceanic, a moist atmosphere prevailing, with regular sea breezes. Forests of fir, laurel
and cedar cover almost tlie entire surface. The rain fall is greater than in the Umpqua
and Rogue river valleys, and the temperature more equable. Beginning at the Cali-
fornia state line and proceeding northward along the coast a large number of streams
are crossed, rising, with the exception of the Rogue and Umpqua, among the hills of the
Coast Range.

The flora of Southern Oregon bears distinguishing characteristics. Upon the
flanks of the Coast Range and the country lying between those mountains and the sea,
exists an almost interminable forest of evergreen trees — the red fir, yellow fir, white fir,
red cedar and the white cedar. These trees grow to an enormous size and constitute
an almost inexhaustible store of the best quality of lumber. On the eastern slope of
the range, the oak takes the place of the gigantic conifers, and scattered groves of these
are found until the foothills of the Cascades are reached, when the fir again becomes
abundant. Here it is associated with the sugar pine, a species almost unknown to the
Coast mountains. On the Cascades also grow the oak, juniper, hemlock and spruce,
but in smaller quantities than the former trees. Here, also, the supply of timber is
very great, and owing to the difficulty of access, is practically untouched.

All parts of this great and interesting region are well watered. Save in some ele-
vated regions of the extreme eastern part, hardly a quai-ter-section of land but possesses
an ample supply of the clearest and coldest water Numerous streams abound and
.springs burst forth in profusion. In these mountain streams rove vast numbers of fish,
the mountain or brook trout, the salmon trout, and in its season the salmon, being the
most valuable species. The woods abound in game; the bear, elk, deer, California lion
and other four-footed animals not yet extirpated by the bullet of the hunter, remain to
furnish excitement for the sportsman and a not inconsiderable supply of meat to settlers
and the markets. Smaller animals and birds lend the attraction of their presence to a
scene of woodland peace and beauty.

The climate of Southern Oregon is in many res[)ects superior to tliat of any otlier
portion of the coast. With an ample rainfall it stands midway between the continual
drouth of Sacramento valley and the almost perpetual winter rains of the Willamette.
Closed in by mountain chains, it is not swept by winds heated by a long journey over
vast stretches of level land, wliile across the low summits of the Coast Range steal the
coolino- breezes from the sea. Storms can not reach it with tlio full strengtii of their

SOUTHERN OREGON.

power. Protected from hot winds iu summer, and in winter coming within the influ-
ence of that warm ocean river, the Japan current, which so modifies and tempers the
climate of the coast from Alaska to Mexico, the climate of this region is equable,
agreeable and healthful. With a natural drainage of its surface that renders large
areas of swampy land impossible, this region is never afflicted by scourge or pesti-
lence, nor has it malaria or any other prevailing disease. It is a land where fertility
of soil, health and agreeableness of climate and beauty of scenery conspire to make
life a pleasure to the well, and to stimulate the invalid with renewed vigor.

Statistics of temperature and rainfall, covering any extended j)eriod, it is impossi-
ble to obtain. Until a station of the United States signal service was established in
Roseburg in 1877, no organized efibrt was made in this direction, and individuals
seem to have been too much engrossed in the cares of business to give attention to the
subject. We have only the record kept in Rogue river valley by a pioneer of that
region, extending from 1854 to 1865, and the reports of the station at Roseburg since
its founding in 1877. From these the following tables have been prepared :

COMPFLED FROM THE RECORDS

METEOEOLOGICAL SUMMARY.

OP THE UNITED STATES SIGNAL STATION AT ROSEBURG

OREGON.

18T8.

1879.

1880.

1881.

188-i

MONTHS.

Thermora'trjR^aiu-

The-mom-tr.

Rain-
fall.
In e.

Thermom'tr.

Rain-
fall.

lu's.:

•^si

Thermom'tr.

Rain-

Thermora-tr.|Rain-

Ma^ Min

i\rnjin's

Max

Min

i

7

Mn
42.1

.Max

Jlin

17.5
29

-Mil

;1 . t,
45! 5

Mas

57

1

Min

r

54

Mn

i

j5.1

lu>.

-Ma.x

M

.M'n lu's.

January

Febnian-

March...

65 28
0.3 S3..5
71 1:« 5

7«. :.!■.;«

44 1 ».'.'<
47.8 ; :;i
ol.4l tl,::ii
}1.1 ii.;:!

i<<.^ 2.55
46.11 3.65
38.1 2.73

60
56

,' '/

1 " . •

- '; 1 21
■ i 1; 21

T3..-i-Jii!.^

ie2..Mr-'

September

October

November

December

5.79
7.86

76

; l.:5li
., :,A_n
: 1 1.1,1
i.i. (;.:,4

Annual Means

,r6.8 33..6

.51. ]|

136.92

75.4

30.8

52.2

45.03

r!

30.

50.b

31.44

'

. -

Totals

43.rai

J

134 77

TABLE OF KAINFALL.

COMPILED FROM A PRIVATE RECORD KEPT IN ROGUE RIVER VALLEY.

January. . .
February . .
March....

April

May

June

J"iy

August

September .

October

November .
December .

Total .

854. 1855. 1856. 1857. I

2.94
•52
1-34
0.00
1.48
0.00
2-35

2.46

3-04

4-45

2.09
3-17
2.2s

3- IS

3-5°

859. 1S60. ; 1861. 1862.

2.07
3-97
1.73

•75
0.00
0.00

1-39
1.06
1.15
1.02
2.21
1.74
2.15
.07
■33
1. 86
2.75
3-31

4.66
2.32
1.94

'.03
1-13
0.00
0.00
0.00
•63
7.82
10. 1 1

19.04 I 26.57 I 20.06

1865.

3. IS

• 23

2.83

1. 89
1-95
1.27
0.00
.10
•45
•37
5.86
12.09

9.06
4.06

21.83

* First six months of 1856 not observed. Average for ten years, 23.18 inches.

Within the bounds of Southern Oregon is found a population of about thirty
thousand souls, pioneers and their descendants, who redeemed this beautiful region
from the domination of savage ti'ibes and brought it within the dominion of civiliza-
tion. In the forty years of its history much has been accomplished. The primeval
forests have been leveled. The fire of many a domestic hearth burns brightly in a
land which not many years ago was a wilderness. The old story of pioneer life is

SOUTHERN OREGON. 301

repeated here on this western shore l)y those to wliom liardship and adventure were as
second nature. Over this region, now fruitful in grain, the wihl and dehased Indian
once roamed, an object of dread and danger. Bloody and fierce were the conflicts he
waged against the superior race, fast despoiling him of his heritage, and the crimson
history of war attests his valor and stubbornness. The Indian has melted away before
the approach of the Caucasian, like snow beneath a noonday sun. Kude domestic
utensils, and the arrow-heads fallen on many a bloody battle-field remain as sole
mementos of a departed race.

The history of Southern Oregon as a distinct section, aside from the Indian war
already related, will be given by counties and localities, the annals of each being-
made as complete as possible ; yet, perhaps, a few introductory remarks may not be
out of place.

The progress of discovery and settlement of Oregon has been fully detailed in
the preceding pages. The few facts relating especially to this region may be sum-
marized as the landing of Sir Francis Drake's pilot [see i^age 20] ; the discovery,
possibly, of the mouth of either the Kogue or Umpqua river by Martin de Aguilar in
1603 [see page 30] ; the destruction of Jedediah S. Smith's party and the passage
through this region of the first Hudson's Bay Company trapjjers under Alexander
Roderick McLeod [see pages 119 to 122]. From that time forward Southern Oregon
was for a number of years traversed by parties of Hudson's Bay Company men, passing
to and from the rich trapping grounds of California, or setting their traps for beaver
in the many streams of this region. Fort Umpqua, in Yoncalla valley, was erected by
that company as a headquarters for operations in this section. In 1837 a large band
of cattle was driven through from California [see pages 130 and 131], and other bands
subsequently, while annually, beginning with 1843, emigrants passed backwards and
forwards between the Willamette valley and California.

In the month of September, 1841, a detachment of the celebrated exploring
expedition of Commodore Charles Wilkes passed through this region on its way from
Vancouver to Yerba Buena (San Francisco). It consisted of Lieutenant George F-
Emmons, in command, Past Midshipman Henry Eld, Past Midshipman George W.
Colovcoressis, Assistant Surgeon J. S. Whittle, and thirty-four others, among whom
were J. D. Dana, the celebrated geologist, and a number of emigrants including women
and children. Their impressions of the country are recorded in United States Explor-
ing Expedition, Vol. 5, from which the following facts are gleaned :

The detachment took its departure from Fort Umpqua, in YoiicMJla valley, on
the eighteenth of September, having been warned by Mr. Garnier, agent in charge,
that the party was entirely too small to safely traverse the l^mpqua. Rogue river and
Shasta countries, since he had reliable information that the Indians, who were well
aware of their approach, were massing at various points to cut them oft'. By using
the utmost prudence and diligence and permitting no strange Indians to enter the camp,
Lieutenant Ennnons conducted his party safely through the Umpqua region and across
the Umpqua mountains to Rogue river valley and camped on the banks of '' Rogues,
or Tootootutnas river." " They had now" says the report, " reached the country of
the Klamet Indians, better known as the Rogues or Rascals, wliieh name the}' have
ol)tained fmm the hunters, from the many acts of villainy they liave ]iractitrd."

302 bOrTHERN OKEGOX.

Special meutiou is made of the place on Young's creek where Dr. Bailey was defeated,
and of the scene of Turner's heroic battle on Rogue river. These places were no
doubt pointed out by the trappers engaged to accompany the party, and the story of
Turner's combat as related by them to Lieutenant Emmons was as follows : A party
of nine American trappers, some of them accompanied by their Indian wives, were
encamped on the river one day in 1835. They had heedlessly permitted large num-
bers of Indians to enter the camp, and these suddenly fell upon the whites, killing two
of them and wounding the others. Turner, who was a powerful man, snatched a
brand from the fire and disabled several of the assailants, until his wife brought him
a rifle, with which he killed a number of the Indians and drove the others away.
With his wounded companions he managed to reach the settlements in the Willamette.
At another point on the river, where the report says that Michael Laframboise, the
California leader of Hudson's Bay Company parties, had been twice attacked, the
Indiaas made threatening demonstrations but no actual attack. On the twenty-ninth
they crossed Siskiyou mountain, or Boundary ridge, as called in the report. Dense
columns of signal smoke were continually observed, announcing their approach to
tribes in advance. Mention is made on the ascent of Siskiyou mountain of a narrow
defile, and of a party of fifteen, which was " defeated here by the Indians, some three
years ago. One of their number was killed, and two died of their wounds on the
Umpqua, whither they were obliged to retreat, although they had forced the Indians
back with great loss." This refers to Ewing Young's cattle company in 1837, [see
page 130], one of whom, Tibbats, was in Emmons' party. All these dangerous places
were safely passed, and the party crossed into California without molestation.

In 1846 a number of settlers in the upper end^of Willamette valley explored a
route for an emigrant road through Southern Oregon to Fort Hall, and as this was the
first effort to render this region a^jproachable for settlers, it is of considerable historical
importance. The following summary of the passage of the j^arty from the Willamette
to Klamath lake, is taken from a diary narrative of the trip by Lindsay Applegate,
one of the explorers. Though many unimportant paragraphs and sentences are
omitted, the language used is all that of the venerable pioneer. The narrative says :

" From what information we could gather from old pioneers and the Hudson's
Bay Company, the Cascade mountains to the south became very low, or terminated
where the Klamath cut that chain ; and knowing that the Blue mountains lay east and
west, we concluded there must be a belt of country extending east toward the South
pass of the Bocky mountains where there might be no vast, lofty ranges to cross. So,
in 1846, we organized a company to undertake its exploration, composed of the fol-
lowing persons : Levi Scott, John Scott, Henry Boggus, Lindsay Applegate, Jesse
Applegate, Benjamin Burch, John Owens, John Jones, Robert Smith, Samuel Goodhue,
Moses Harris, David Goflf, Benit Osborn, William Sportsman, and William Parker.
Each man was provided with a saddle horse and a pack horse, making thirty animals.

" A i^ortion of the country we purposed to traverse was at that time marked on
the map ' unexplored region.' All the information we could get relative to it was
through the Hudson's Bay Company. Peter Ogden, an officer of that company,
who had led a party of trappers through that region, represented that portions of it
were desert-like, and that at one time his company was so pressed for the want oi

SOUTHERN OREGON. ;i03

water that they went to the top of a mountain, filled sacks with snow, and were thus
able to cross the desert. He also stated that portions of the C9untry through which
we would have to travel, were infested with fierce and warlike savages, who would
attack every party entering their country, steal their trajis, waylay and murder the
men, and that Rogue river had taken its name from the character of the Indians
inhabiting its valleys. The idea of opening a wagon road through such a country at
that time, was scouted as preposterous. These statements, though based on facts, we
thought might be exaggerated by the Hudson's Bay Company in their own interest,
since they had a line of forts on the Snake river route, reaching from Fort Hall to
Vancouver, and were prepared to profit by the immigration. One thing which had
much influence with us was the fact that the question as to which power, Great Britain
or the United States, would eventually secure a title to the country, was not settled,
and in case a war should occur and Britain prove successful, it was important to have
a way by which we could leave the country without running the gauntlet of the Hud-
son's Bay Company forts and falling a prey to Indian tribes which were under British
influence.

" June twentieth, 1846, we gathered on the La Creole, near where Dallas now
stands, moved up the valley and encamped for the night on ^Mary's river, near where
the town of Corvallis has since been built.

"The next morning, June twenty-third, we moved on through the grassy oak
hills and narrow valleys, to the North Umpqua river. The crossing was a rough and
dangerous one, as the river bed was a mass of loose rocks, and, as we were crossing,
our horses occasionally fell, giving the riders a severe ducking.

" On the morning of the twenty-fourth, we left camp early and moved on about
five miles to the south branch of the Umpqua, a considerable stream, probably sixty
yards wide, coming from the eastward. Traveling up that stream almost to the place
where the old trail crosses the Umpqua mountains, we encamped for the night opposite
the historic Umpqua canyon.

"The next morning, June twenty-fifth, we entered the canyon, followed up the
little stream that runs through the defile for four or five miles, crossing the creek a
great many times, but the canyon becoming more obstructed with brush and fallen
timber, the little trail we were following turned up the side of the ridge, where the
woods w^ere more open, and wound its way to the top of the mountain. It then bore
south along a narrow backbone of the mountain, the dense thickets and the rocks on
either side affording splendid opportunities for ambush. A short time before this, a
party coming from California, had been attacked on this summit-ridge by the Indians
and one of them had been severely wounded. Several of the horses had also been
shot with arrows. Along this trail we picked up a number of broken and shattered
arrows. We could see that a large party of Indians had passed over the trail traveling
southward only a few days before.

" On the morning of the twenty-sixth we divided our forces, part going back to
explore the canyon, Avhile the remainder stayed to guard the camp and horses. The
exploring i)arty went back to where we left the canyon on the little trail the day before,

3U4 SOUTHERN OREGON.

and returniug througli the canyon, came into caiuji after night, reporting that wagons
coukl be taken through.

" Making an early start we moved on very cautiously. Whenever the trail
passed through thickets we dismounted and led our horses, having our guns in hand
ready at any moment to use them in self-defense, for we had adopted this rule, never
to be the aggressor. Towards evening we saw a great many Indians posted along the
mountain side, and now and then running ahead of us. As we advanced toward the
river, the Indians in large numbers occupied the river bank near where the trail
crossed. Having understood that this crossing was a favarite place of attack, we
decided as it was growing late, to pass the night in the prairie.

" In selecting our camp on Rogue river, we observed the greatest caution. Cutting
stakes from the limbs of an old oak that stood in the open ground, we picketed our
horses with double stakes as firmly as possible. The horses were picketed in the form
of a hollow square, outside of which we took up our positions. We kept vigilant guard
during the night, and, the next morning could see the Indians occupying the same
position as at dark. There had been a heavy dew, and fearing the effects of the damjj-
ness upon our fire-arms, which were muzzle-loaders, of course, and some of them with
flint-locks, we fired them off" and re-loaded. In moving forward we formed two divis-
ions, wdth the pack horses behind. On reaching the river bank the front division fell
behind the pack horses and drove them over, while the rear division faced the brush,
with gun in hand, until the front division was safely over. Then they turned about,
and the rear division passed over under protection of their rifles. The Indians watched
the performance from their places of concealment, but there was no chance for them to
make an attack without exposing themselves to our fire. The river was dee]) and
rapid, and for a short distance some of the smaller animals had to swim. Had we
rushed pell mell into the stream, as parties sometimes do under such circumstances, our
expedition would probably have come to an end there,

" After crossing, we turned up the river, and the Indians in large numbers came
out of the thickets on the opjsosite side and tried in every way to provoke us. There
appeared to be a great commotion among them. A party had left the French settle-
ment in the Willamette some three or four weeks before us, consisting of French, half-
breeds, Columbia Indians and a few Americans ; probably about eighty in all. Pass-
ing one of their encampments we could see by the sign that they were only a short
distance ahead of us. We afterward learned that the Rogue River? had stolen some of
their horses, and that an efibrt to recover them had caused the delay. From our camp
we could see numerous signal fires on the mountains to the eastward.

" On the morning of June 29th, we passed over a low range of hills, from the
summit of which we had a splendid view of Rogue river valley. It seemed like a
great meadow, interspersed with groves of oaks ■which appeared like vast orchards.
All day long we traveled over rich black soil covered with rank grass, clover and pea-
vine, and at night encamped near the other party on the stream now known as Emi-
grant creek, near the foot of the Siskiyou mountains. This night, the Indians having
gone to the mountains to ambush the French company as we afterwards learned, we
were not disturbed. Here our course diverged from that of the other company, they

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SOUTHERN OREGON 305

following the old California trail across the Siski^-on, while our route was eastward
through an unexplored region several hundred miles in extent.

" Spending most of the day in examining the hills about tlie stream now called
Keene creek, near the summit of the Siskiyou ridge we moved on down through the
heavy forests of pine, fir and cedar, and encamped early in the evening, in a little val-
ley, now known as Round prairie. On the morning of July 1st, being anxious to know
what we were to find ahead, we made an early start. This morning we observed the
track of a lone horse leading eastward, thinking it had been made by some Indian
horseman, on his way from Rogue river to the Klamath country, we undertook to fol-
low it. This we had no trouble in doing, as it had been made in the spring, while the
ground was damji and was very distinct, until we came to a very I'ough rocky ridge
where we lost it.

" The next day, July ord, we again traveled northward, further than before, mak-
ing a more complete examination of the country than we had previously done, and at
last found what seemed to be a practicable pass. Near this was a rich grassy valley
through which ran a little stream, and here we encamped for the night. This valley
is now known as Long prairie.

" After crossing the summit of the Cascade ridge, the descent was, in places, very
rapid. At noon we came out into a glade where there was water and grass and from
which we could see the Klamath river. After noon we moved down through an
immense forest, principally of yellow pine, to the river, and then traveled up the north
bank, still through yellow pine forests, for about six miles, when all at once we came
out in full view of the Klamath country, extending eastward as far as the eye could
reach. It was an exciting moment, after the many days spent in the dense forests and
among mountains, and the whole party broke forth in cheer after cheer." [For the
conclusion of this expedition the reader is referred to page 148 of this volume, and
for the contemporaneous visit of Fremont to page 187.]

Such are the material events of Southern Oregon prior to its settlement, and the
l)lan of this work does not embrace any further generalization of events. The details of
occurrences and early settlements will be found carefully arranged by counties and
recited in the history of the special locality in which they occurred.

JACKSON COUNTY.

CHAPTER XXXVI.

GEOGRAPHY OF JACKSON COUNTY.

Jackson County— Its Situation and Boundaries— Extent of Surface -Diversity of Scenery— Mountain Ranges—
The Country a Basin— Mt. Pitt— Crater Lake— The Upper Rogue River- Rogue River— Origin of Name-
Smaller Streams— Bear Creek Valley.

Jackson coimty occupies a position on the southeastern au,2;le of Southern Oregon,
and comprises about two-sevenths of the aggregate area of that division of the state.
In form it is nearly square, and its boundaries are mainly composed of straight lines,
which have directions towards the cardinal points. More minutely, the southern
boundary — co-incident with the northern boundary of California — is forty-eight miles
long and runs due east and west. The eastern boundary, dividing Jackson and Klam-
ath counties, is ninety miles in length, and its direction is north and south, or making
a right angle with the southern boundary. The northern boundary separates Jackson
from Douglas county, and follows the summit of the high land or divide between the
Rogue river and South Umj)qua, having a curved course bending southwesterly. The
fourth side of the square is formed by the boundary between Josephine and Jackson,
and is an arbitrary and broken line, made up of three straight lines which coincide
with township boundaries. This dividing line measures fifty-one miles in length, and
terminates on the California line at the point where Jackson, Josephine and Siskiyou
counties meet. All these boundaries, excepting the western, although the eastern and
southern are straight lines, conform very closely to natural lines of division. As for
the southern, it follows the course of the lofty Siskiyou range, which naturally sepa-
rates Oregon from California ; on the east the water-shed between the Rogue river
basin and the Klamath lake region approximates with the separating line of Klamath
and Jackson counties ; northwardly, nature has built up the Canyon mountains as a
barrier between the Rogue river and Umpqua regions, and man has accepted them as
marking the political divisions of the two counties.

To recai^itulate : Douglas county lies on the north of Jackson, Klamath on the
east, Josephine on the west, and Siskiyou county, California, on the south. The area
of Jackson county is approximately 3,000 square miles, or to be more precise, contains
the equivalent of eighty-one townships of thirty-six square miles each, or 2,916 square
miles. Rendered in acres this is equal to no less a number than 1,866,240 — an area
not far short of the size of Connecticut, and nearly twice that of Rhode Island.

Within this large tract is a great diversity of land and scenery. The whole
region is broken up into valleys, and mountain and hill ranges, adown or between
which flow streams which find their way to the Rogue river. ExcejJting a small por-
tion of the southeastern corner of the county, all its waters make their way to that
stream, tributary to it, as all their valleys are tributary to the central valley of the

JACKSON COUNTY. 307

Eogue river. The word basin describes the general aspect of the country ; all around,
excepting upon its western border, lie lofty mountain ranges hemming in the valley of
the Rogue as with a wall. On the south the Siskiyou, on the east the Cascades, on the
north the Canyon mountains, form majestic barriers to isolate the basin of the Rogue
river. The highest jwint of these natural bulwarks approaches 9,000 feet. Mount
Pitt, otherwise called McLaughlin, lying nearly in the center of the eastern boundary,
has been accredited with a height of 9,250 feet, or the same altitude as Mount Thiel-
sen (known to the people of Jackson county as Diamond peak, but called by moun-
taineers Cow-horn peak), which lies a few miles beyond the northeasternmost point of
Jackson county. At the foot of Thielsen heads Rogue river ; which, pursuing its pre-
cipitous way southwestward between steep mountain sides forming a stupendous canyon,
runs on to the wide valley below, where the mountains sink into hills and finally are
lost at the junction of many streams. Rising at an altitude of over 6,000 feet the
Rogue pursues its tortuous course for a hundred miles before passing the boundaries of
Jackson county, and in that distance arrives at a level of about 1,000 feet above tide-
water as it enters Josephine county. The altitude then of the lowest point in Jackson
county may be taken as 1,000 feet, this point being a short distance below Grant's
Pass, on the extreme western edge of the county. The utmost depth of the basin of
Rogue river, accordingly reaches 3,000 feet if we assume 4,000 feet as the least altitude
of the wall of mountains which surrounds the basin, and the estimate is doubtless cor-
rect with respect to all but those mountains which lie to the northwest, which may
fall somewhat short of these figures.

Thus far no exact determinations of altitude have been undei'taken with respect
t(» the mountains of Southern Oregon. The railroad people have indeed surveyed the
points whicli lie upon their route, and private surveyors have reported upon the
heights of many points upon county and other roads; but no exact scientific measure-
ments have been undertaken as to the higher summits of the Cascades. From the notes
of engineers who have surveyed the California and Oregon boundary line, we take the
following excerpts :

" The line traverses Lower Klamath lake thirteen miles ; thence ascending a very
broken, rough and timbered country it crosses Klamath river at a point 104^^ miles
from the ocean; it then takes over high, rocky mountains cut by the deep canyons of
Long Prairie and Jenny creeks, between which two streams it reaches the southern
extremity of the eastern boundary of Jackson county at a point ninety-eight miles
from the Pacific ocean. At seventy-nine and a half miles from the Pacific it crosses
the Oregon and California stage road, just north of Cole's station. Thence ascending
to the summit of the Siskiyou range, and leaving the Hungry creek mines in Cali-
fornia, the line crosses the head of Applegate valley, leaving the southwestern corner
of Jackson county, M-hich is just fifty and one-half miles from the Pacific. Thence
passing over exceedingly rugged mountains it continues five miles south of the
Althouse, and crosses the Illinois river at the junction of its forks, and three miles
.south of Waldo. This point is twenty -eight miles from the Pacific."

The Siskiyou chain attain a lofty height, being piled up quite to the line of
l)erpetual snow. These elevations exceed in altitude any summit east of the Missis-
sippi, and are only second to the majestic Cascades themselves. Their aspect is rugged

308 SOUTHERN OREGON.

ill the extreme. Huge cliifs to\Yer aloft, the maiu range sends forth many
off-shoots, and profound canyons penetrate its dense recesses. Over this grand
wall of granite, sandstone and basalt a wagon road, projected early and
begun in 1849, passes, to accommodate travel between California and Oregon.
A few miles west of the road Pilot rock towers aloft, a column-like mass of
basalt, a thousand feet high and barely half that in diameter at its base. A noted
landmark this, and known and noticed since the earliest times. On the sides of the
range and perhaps a mile in elevation above the present sea level, sea shells are found,
a never-ceasing source of wonder to the observer, whose cogitations find vent in
repeating the truism that "the sea must have covered the whole country in early
times." Mineral sj)rings, thermal springs and springs of water of supposed medicinal
qualities abound. Soda springs of great capacity exist and a "health resort" of wide
celebrity may be expected to ensue in future.

The eastern boundary of the Rogue river basin is composed as already hinted, of
the summits of the Cascade mountains. This stupendous range it will be observed,
extends north and south and divides the basin of Klamath lake from the country
tributary to Rogue river. Approaching Klamath river the vast bulwark of hills and
mountains sinks gradually until its greatest elevation, instead of presenting the aspect
of a mountain range, is simply a plateau whose streams course indifferently to the east
or west. Its height is about 4,000 feet; its surface is mainly covered with prairies and
open glades. This portion, mainly inhabited by a few cattle-raisers and herdsmen, is
of some agricultural value, and is capable of supporting the flocks and herds of quite a
population.

Further north rises the majestic cone of Pitt — the Mont Blanc of Southern
Oregon. Its summit, coated with the unmelted snow of ages, rears itself aloft, an
enduring landmark to the people of two counties. Few scenes partake so much of
sublimity as the view of the white summit of this grand mountain outlined against the
clear sky of that elevated region. All its neighboring summits are dwarfs in compari-
son, and for a hundred miles on either hand no rival rises. In form the huge j^eak is
more nearly faultless than any other in the Cascades or Sierra Nevada, only St. Helens
being worthy of comparison with it in this respect. The usual asperities of mountain
peaks are absent here, where a symmetrical cone rises through the clear sky, covered
Avith snow and belted beneath by a zone of ever-green trees, scattered in the upper
regions but growing more and more thickly toward the base, and where the mountain
broadens out into the plateau, merging into a gloriously dense and majestic forest.

But grand and imposing as Pitt is, nature has set near it a rival wonder more
remarkable and more unique. Indeed, in point of uniqueness it is unrivalled upon
the known face of the earth. This is Crater lake, of which those who have seen it
have borne away recollections never to be erased. The pen and pencil of manj' visi-
tors have been busy with its description and photographs have aided to afford an
accurate conception of the glories of this tremendous work of nature. One who saw it,
wrote: "The greatest curiosity of this region and one of the greatest of the whole
northwest, is Crater lake, in the very summit of the Cascades, seventy-five miles
ni;rtheast of Jacksonville. Its remoteness from the usual routes of travel has kept it
in comparative seclusion; but more are attracted hither yearly, and it will, in the

JACKSON COUNTY. 309

future, be one of the regular objects visited by tourists iu this region. It has been
variously known as Blue lake, Deep lake and Lake Majesty, but the more appropriate
title it now bears will no doubt remain with it forever. In approaching the visitor
suddenly finds himself upon the edge of a tremendous precipice, and looking across a
wide stretch of water that lies far beneath. The shores vary from 1,500 to 8,000 feet
in height. To be critical, there is no shore, for only at one point can a sure-footed
person descend the cliff to the lake level, and when there the presence of a few boul-
ders and some fallen debris is all that indicates a shore. The waters are wide, deep
and silent. It is seldom that a breeze disturbs them, but at moments a wierd breath
moves softly along and breaks the calm surface into ripples. Looking across from the
surrounding wall the sky is seen so perfectly reflected in the water that were it not for
the rocky margin of the lake it would be impossible to discern the line of division. The
circumference is more than twenty miles, and the altitude of its surface as great as the
summit of the pass over the mountains. On the outside the steep walls shelve off into
mountain ridges, wooded to the top; on the inside they stand almost perpendicular,
looking down forever on the captive sea.

In the early years, before the wide scope of country to the east was covered up
with lava and ashes, there must have stood here one of the grandest mountains of the
world. How immense this great volcano must have been can be imagined when it is
realized that these walls that now stand from 7,500 to 9,000 feet high, are only the
shell of the mountain as it once existed. With a base of twenty miles in circumfer-
ence, at a height of 7,000 feet, what must have been the altitude of the cone that was
reared above it? Beside it Hood, Shasta and Tacoma would hide their diminished
heads. That such a mountain once stood here as an active volcano can not be doubted.
The country to the east for many square miles is buried beneath ashes, pumice and
volcanic scoria. To the terrible convulsions of nature, those miles of desolation, those
rocky walls and this vast crater bear witness. In the midst of the lake rises a perfect
but extinct volcano, at least 1,500 feet iu height, its sides fringed with a stunted
growth of hemlock. The lava flowing from this has made an island in the lake at
least three miles long. The cone has a dish-like depression in its apex, which shows
where once its crater was, and into which one can look from a position on the bluffs
above. The period of the first great eruption was followed by a season of rest and then
a second eruption, during which the small cone was formed by the final effort of the
expiring forces. Burning lava fiowed fiercely down its sides, where now the dwarfed
hemlock has gained a precarious foothold and seeks to hide its ugliness beneath a
mantle of vegetation.

The Indians view Crater lake and its surroundings as holy ground, and apj)roach
it with reverence and awe. It is one of the earthly spots made sacred by the presence
of the Great Spirit, and the ancient tribal traditions relate many mysterious incidents
in connection with it. In the past none but medicine men visited Lt, and when one of
the tribe felt called upon to become a teacher and healer, he spent several weeks on the
shore of the lake in fasting, in connuunion with the dead, anil in prayer to the
Shahullah Tyee. Her(> they saw visions and dreamed dreams, and when they
came down from the mountain, like Moses from Sinai, they were looked up to with
reverence as having communed with the Great Spirit, and seen the unknown world."

310 SOUTHERN OREGON.

Another writer, more liowerv aud voluuiiuous, published iu the State Line Herald
his impressions of a trip to the wonderful lake, which are here reproduced as contain-
ing much valuable information of the country through which the traveler passes on
his way to the lake. The most usual, and, in fact, the only route from the inhabited
portion of Jackson county, lies along the Rogue river, passing up that stream for
many miles. The story of the journey is thus told: Some there are who have
traversed the Alps and the Appenines, have visited Yosemite and Tahoe, only to stand
entranced on the brink of this once mighty cauldron and look with silent awe into its
awful depth; or, turning, view with rapture the beautiful landscape spread out like a
map below and around them. The roads leading to this wonderful spot, too, are
fruitful of other treats in the rugged grandeur of this picturesque range. The best
time for visiting Crater lake is in the month of August, before the snows of autumn
come to block the way, or her frost to bite the wanderer, or blight the verdure so near
these lofty summits. The location of the spot we seek is twenty-five miles in a
northerly direction from Fort Klamath, near the northwest border of Lake county,
Oregon, and is directly on the summit of the Cascade range, at an elevation of 9,000
feet above the level of the sea. Leaving the California and Oregon stage line at Jack-
sonville or Ashland, in Rogue River valley, having first provided ourselves with all the
necessary accoutrements and paraphernalia for camp and mountain travel, we start in
a northerly direction for the banks of Rogue river. The Rogue river road to Fort
Klamath is a reasonably good one at this season of the year, and will bear us within
three or four miles of the lake, which is about ninety miles distant from our starting
point.

'•' Having reached and crossed the river at Hannah's ferry, we turned our course
up stream. As we move on, the valley grows narrower and farms and farm houses are
fewer, while the rapid river grows swifter, the forest denser aud more rugged. Fifty
miles of our journey brings us to 'the bridge.' Here the river has narrowed to seventy-
five feet in width and runs with fearful rapidity between steep and rocky banks. In a
distance of one and a half miles from this point the river falls 300 feet and passes
through a deep gorge in the mountains, rushing at times down a steep declivity, then
leaping impetuously from rock to rock, lashing itself into fury and foam, whirling in
eddies or resting a moment in some protected basin before jDlunging fifty feet with a
rush and roar, only to repeat the same wild ^ahantasies as it rolls wildly on to the ocean.
Ere reaching the foot of the first rapids, the roar of the mighty waters in the distance
rises above the din of those at our feet, aud moving as rapidly as the character of the
country will permit, w^e discover through the trees the snowy foam of the great tails or
one branch of the river as it plunges with a single leap over a perpendicular cliff" 184
feet, without a break, into the rapid flood below. The fall is one of the finest to be
found in these wild and solitary regions.

" Old bruin of the grizzly species, is found in great numbers ; deer, elk, and other
game are also plentiful. Leaving the roar and gloom about the falls of Rogue river,
we journey on towards our destination, which is still forty miles away. Our road lies
through one of the finest forests of the state. Here the sugar pine and fir grow to the
height of 250 and 300 feet, with diameter in many instances from six to ten feet, and

JACKSON COUNTS. 311

Avill doubtless some day be utilized -with great profit. For many miles there is iiothino;
to vary the monotony of this interminable forest, until we find our road running along
the edge of a canyon which by time and water has been washed down the mountain
sides to considerable depth. This wash occurred many years ago as the forest trees
have grown in it to an enormous size. The great curiosity of this canyon, however,
are the columns or pyramids of rocky cement standing at the bottom of the gorge, and
with a base of thirty or forty feet, reach a height of seventy-five or one hundred. These
pyramids have evidently been composed of a harder substance than that which sur-
rounded them and did not yield so readily to the action of water ; hence, were thus
preserved as items in the great jianorama of curiosities to be found in this wild region.

"Having reached a point within ten or twelve miles of the summit of the moun-
tain, our road becomes gradually steeper and more difficult to ascend. Here, too
evidences of volcanic action are more appareiit. Great masses of pumice stone and
lava are seen scattered about. The character of vegetation gradually changes, and fir
predominates in this altitude. When three miles from the summit, we turn to the
left, and after toiling for a mile over scoria, pumice and lava, we go into camp and pre-
pare to make the remaining two miles, which is quite steep, on hor.seback or afoot.
The weather for camping is excellent, and the denseness of the fir timber gives pro-
tection from the winds. Ojien glades at hand present a very tempting feast for our
jaded horses and we soon have the satisfaction of seeing them revelling in clover and
redtop, knee high, while the rippling sound of the many j^ebbly brooks near by give
assurance of an abundance of nature's beverage as pure as though just distilled from
drops of pearly dew.

"It is well to take the early morn for the remainder of our journey, and breathe
the morning air from the mountain tops. A night's rest in these high altitudes, coffee
and bacon before sunrise, and the invigorating air give life and vigor, and soon we
find ourselves tripping up the mountain at a rate only to be maintained a few moments
without rest. The ascent is not remarkably steep — in fact wagons can be driven to
the very brink — yet at such an altitude the air is very rare and light and one soon
becomes exhausted and overcome by exertion. As we advance, the scenery about us
changes rapidly, yet there is no indication of a body of water ahead; in fact we
appear to have reached an elevation beyond which it is not reasonable to exj^ect it.
The trees become more dwarfish and scraggy. The grass is less abundant, and we
miss the brooks and springs so plentiful just below. We halt now and then beneath
the shade of thick clusters of fir, to gather breath and rest our weary limbs. Occa-
sionally through openings in the trees we get glimpses of towering peaks, deep gorges
and wide spreading forests in the distance. All at once and without a moment's warn-
ing we find ourselves emerging from the timber into an amphitheater-like opening.
Towering rocks rise up on either hand and in front and point skyward ; around and
about us is spread a scene of desolation. Huge masses of lava, ashes, pumice stone
and rocks of igneous formation lie scattered about. Just beyond us rise a semi-circle
of peaks towering from 500 to 1,000 feet above us and encircling an area of about
eight by fifteen miles. A few minutes more bring us to the brink of Crater lake,
where, standing on a pinnacle of rocks, we gaze with silent wonder into its awful
depths. None can look upon the scene without feeling a sense of his own insignifi-

312 SOUTHERN OREGON.

cance steal over him, and lie iiivohmtarily .shudders, in contemplating the awful work
wrought by an unseen and mighty power."

Though second to the scenery of the Cascades in grandeur, attractiveness and
renown, the natural beauties of the various subordinate mountain ranges yet deserve
remark and close scrutiny. The Canyon mountains, the ranges bordering upon the
valley of the Ajjplegate, and the mountains about Butte creek possess characteristics of
such interest as in any country but Southern Oregon would bring celebrity. There is
much even in the tamer scenery of the valleys to excite the imagination, kindle curios-
ity and gratify the taste of a thinking mind. Nowhere else in America, possibly not
in the world have the forces of nature so conspired to beautify and render a region
thoroughly delightful as in the Rogue river valley. Men of taste and experience have
with unanimity pronounced it unrivalled in its own beauty and in the grandeur of its
surroundings. All that nature could yield of majesty in altitude, of magnificence in
distance and of variety in coloring has been lavished upon the Rogue river valley in
unstinted measure.

The diversity of scenery is pleasing in the extreme. After a long ride on steep
mountain grades, through narrow canyons or dense forests the traveler, ascending a
commanding elevation, catches as it were a glimpse of Paradise in the rolling hills and
the lovely plain checkered with ploughed or green fields and diA'ersified with streams
whose borders are fringed by the oak or the lofty cone-bearing trees. Range after
range of hills, low in the fore-ground, but successively rising in elevation until they
assume the dignity of mountains, intercept the vision, and leave the imagination to con-
ceive of the picturesque valleys and pleasant streams embraced between them. Finally,
and as a fitting termination to such a scene, the sharp pointed summit of the lofty Cas-
cades I'ise overtopping all else. The poet of Southern Oregon has not yet begun to
sing, but no one can doubt that there is enough of ijoetical grandeur and beauty in
these mountains and vales to furnish inspiration for the deepest and mightiest of songs.
The Rogue river, a stream of great celebrity and historical importance, forming,
perhaps, the most noticeable geographical feature of this region, was called by the
natives Trashit. Its English name was early applied, but the origin of the designa-
tion is now only a matter of conjecture. It is usually taken for granted that it was a
term of reproach applied by early travelers to the Indians upon its banks. Archbishop
Blanchet wrote: "Rogue river. Rogue river valley, in French is La riviere auz
Coquins, La vaUee auz Coquins — so-called on account of the wickedness of the
Indians in that 23art of the country." It is well known that the first class of travelei's
through the region were trappers of the Hudson's Bay company, a majority of whom
wei-e of French descent and spoke the French language. They gave names to certain
geographical features of the country, some of which are still in vogue. The designa-
tion adduced by the reverend writer fully translated would be equivalent to the
English word Rogue, which would reasonably enough be preferred by Americans, in
default of a more characteristic term. Another hypothesis derives the name from the
French word rouge, red, and supports this by saying that the stream has or had a
peculiar reddish tinge, derivable, perhaps, from the sediment brought down by high
water. An apocryphal story is instanced to the effect that a French vessel, passing
the mouth of the river, observed the deep hue of the waters, and gave in consequence

L

iS^I

JACKSON COUNTY. 313

the name rouge. Still others have said that the cliifs at the moutli of the river, bear-
ing a reddish tint were seen by the French vessel, whence the name Eiciere Rouge,
(»r Red river. But it is evident that the hypothesis of a French vessel on this jDart of
the coast is an invention and an unnecessary one, because of the presence of the
Fi-ench Hudson Bay explorers on shore. These two derivations of the name d(^ not
by any means possess equal claims to credence, for the latter is intrinsically the most
reasonable. There is hardly a doubt but that the French trappers named the stream,
as they were wont to bestow numerous geographical terms, some of which are yet in
vogue, as the Coquille, The Dalles, Des Chutes, Malheur, etc. But be it understood,
they were in the habit of bestowing geographical names derived from physical pecu-
liarities, and not by any means from moral attributes. It would have been in keeping
with their customs to name this stream Riviere Rouge, but not Riviere aa.t, C)jui)i^.
We search in vain for the latter designation upon the map of British North America,
their abiding place and from whence they crossed the Rocky mountains to the Pacific
shore; but we find several Rivieres Rouges, two considerable waterways in the United
States having once borne that name, but now known as Red river. Again, the
Indians must have been named after the river, and not the river from the Indians,
since we never hear or see the designation Rogue Indians, but always Rogue River
Indians. Hence it follows that as the river received its name first, that name could
only have been Rouge, as Coquiii would be entirely inapplicable to a stream of water.
Were the Indians primarily named Rogues or its French equivalent, it is remarkable,
to say the least, that the river should receive next their peculiar designation, and then
its own name be conferred on the Indians, with the addition of the word river or its
French equivalent. This is a very significant and interesting etymological conundrum
indeed, and only to be settled provisionally. There is yet another considei*ation, that
it is unlikely that the French trappers, men of vast experience among savages, whose
traditions were derived from two centuries of life with or warring against innumerable
tribes, should reserve an opprobrious designation for a tribe of Indians in Southern
Oregon. Rather w^ould they have given it to the fierce Iroquois, the untamable Sioux
or the cruel Blackfeet, enemies powerful and remorseless. In the absence of direct
testimony, it appears by far the most likely that the river was originally named Rouge
by the trappers, which, by the easiest perversion imaginable, was changed by Englisli-
speaking men into Rogue, which it has since remained.

By legislative enactment dated in the winter of 1853-4, Rogue river was to have
been known as Gold river, a somewhat more euphonious and possibly more appropriate
designation than the usual one; but this name never achieved currency outside of the
legislative chambers.

Of the minor streams of Jackson county, there are the Big Butte, Little Butte,
Antelope, and Dry creeks, with their lesser tributaries, rising in the eastern part of
the county and flowing westward into the Rogue above the Table Rocks. IJear
creek, otherwise called Mary's river and Stewart creek (the latter the name of a gal-
lant military officer wdio was killed near its banks), rises near the southern boundary
and flowing northwest empties into the main river near Table Rock. The Applegate,
indifferently called river or creek, also rises near the California line. Its direction is
northwest; it is formed bv the junction of tlio P.ig and Little Apjilegate ; it receives

314 SOUTHERN OREGON.

the waters of Sterling, Williams, Forest, and other creeks, and passing into Josephine
county it enters the Rogue in township 36 south, range 6 west. This stream drains a
very considerable region, mostly covered with rugged mountain ranges, deep canyons
and wooded steeps, in all perhaps not less than 1,000 square miles. East of the sources
of the Applegate and Bear creek some small streams, notably Jenny creek, with its
tributaries Beaver and Keene creeks (the latter deriving its name from Granville
Keene, killed thereon by Indians on or about September 3, 1855), flow south into
Klamath river. On the north side of Rogue river rise Button, Trail, Sam's, Sardine,
Evans', and other lesser creeks, which drain small valleys, and flowing southward
empty in the main river. Louse creek. Grave or Leland creek, Jump-off-Joe and
Wolf creeks i-ise in the northwestern part of the county, flow west into [Josephine
county and ultimately find their way into the Rogue. Into the south side of that
river run the creeks known as T'Vault's or Kane's, and Foot's. These take their rise
in the range separating the Applegate from Rogue river, and are but small streams,
although somewhat important from the mining which has been carried on in their
sands. Jackson creek flows a course nearly parallel with Bear creek, taking its rise
in the hills south of Jacksonville, and from its association is an immensely important
stream, though very insignificant in volume.

Each of these streams drains a valley whose extent is generally proportioned to
their own magnitude. The largest of these valleys has long been known as Rogue river
valley — a name which has become as a household word throughout the countries where
English is spoken. As usually applied the term designates the whole basin of the
Rogue river, a region of not less than 4,000 square miles in area. In Southern Oregon
and particularly in Jackson county, the expression is confined to the single valley
extending from Table. Rock to and above Ashland, and is a misnomer, inasmuch as
the Rogue river passes through or by only the lower end of the tract. Bear creek
valley, as bearing the name of the stream which passes through the middle of its
whole length, is the more appropriate designation in every respect. The length of
the valley proper is about forty miles, its maximum breadth — being the distance between
the summits of the enclosing ranges — is about fifteen miles, and its average width is
about eight miles. Thus it is equal in area to 300 square miles, a large jJart of which is
level and of the very finest quality of soil. The tillable land of Bear creek valley is
probably near one-half of all in the county. Here also live the larger portion of
the population, who are also the most prosiDerous and wealthy of the county. Bear
creek valley thus becomes the center of business and enterprise, and contains as a
natural consequence nearly all the institutions of religious worship and instruction.

CHAPTER XXXVII.

AGRICULTURAL AND CLIMATIC RESOURCES.

Character of the Soil— The Conditions of Fertility— Adaptation to Wheat— A Rich Agricultural Region— Stock-
raising— Vegetables— Fruit-growing— Enthusiastic Prophecies — Grapes and Wine— An Extract— Magnificent
and Unequalled Climate— Rainfall— Temperature— Freedom from Disease— Retrospection.

The material resources of Jackson county, which constitute a subject of great
im])ortance and interest, naturally fall into agricultural, mineral and climatic divisions.
Concerning the former some general facts will serve to enlighten the reader, who, for
particular instances should consult another portion of this account.

The general character of the soil of Jackson county is a dark alluvium derived
from the slow and gradual disintegration of the sandstone and other rocks, their
removal to lower levels, and admixture with vegetable mold, the product of successive
growth and decay of grasses, shrubs and trees. Upon high elevations, particularly the
slopes of hills and mountains, the soil while partaking of the same general character,
contains larger particles of rock, so much so as to produce a gravelly or pebbly soil.
Some extensive level tracts are composed of heavy alluvial deposits of fine loam resting
upon a sub-soil of clay. Usually the "bed-rock" is close beneath the soil and is
mainly the sandstone country rock, or more often the barren detritus left by freshets.
The foothills and mountain slopes are frequently covered with a warm, rich, red loam,
verging into a grayish soil of less fertility. The loam, vegetable mold, alluvial
deposits and decomposed, or rather disintegrated sandstone each possess many of the
elements of fertility and their mixture forms, as is well known, the richest soils known
to agriculturists. From a chemical point of view nothing could be better adapted to
the growth and nourishment of crops than such soils. The various compounds which
go to make up the mineral portion of plants, that is the ash, are present in ample (juan-
tity. The potassium salts, the soluble silica, the phosphates and otlier indispensible
constituents are at hand to be dissolved in nature's alembic, carried by the sap of the
growing plant through the minute canals which pervade it and be incorporated with
and form a part of its system. Given such a soil, with a sub-soil sufficiently pervious
to water, and an unfailing supply of moisture just beneath it, and all tlie conditions of
successful agriculture are at hand. A large part of the soils of Bear creek and other
sections are of this sort; but in many localities considerable tracts of shallow sdil rest
upon an impervious foundation of sandstone, or upon coarse gravel whicli in turn
reposes ujioii the sandstone country rock, ;uid in such cases faihires of crops are not
infrequent.

Under the most favorable conditions the fertility of the soil seems absohitely
iacxliaustiblc. Since farming began in the Rogue river valley, a matter of thirty odd
years ago, certain lands have yielded crops for each successive year, and still remain

316 SOUTHERN OREGON

unimpaired in 23roductive power. This applies to the rich tracts of Bear creek valley,
but is also true in a less degree of other localities, and to some extent of the hill lands,
whose value is being yearly demonstrated. The rich loam, or porous, gravelly soils of
the roiling hills have produced crops of uncommon abundance in seasons when the
level lands of the valleys have only borne a partial crop. For the culture of grain
crops of every kind the soil of the region has proved its adaj^tability by the exjjerience
of a third of a century. Wheat has always been a favorite crop. Barley, rye and oats
reward well the thrifty farmer. Twenty-five bushels per acre of either of these grains
would in past years have been esteemed a small yield, taking tlie country at large. Com-
pared with the area devoted to other crops wheat culture has always been foremost in
imjiortance of all agricultural branches, so much so that we may say that a history of
agriculture in the valley is simply a history of wheat raising. At a time when the
acreage of tilled lands was small, and transportation so costly as to debar the importa-
tion of breadstuflfe from the Willamette valley and the outer world generally, and
when several thousand miners in Jackson, Josephine and Siskiyou counties depended
for their supply of flour almost exclusively upon the fields of Bear creek valley, wheat
raising achieved a standing as a very lucrative occupation, and what is more, an easy
one. Flour at ten cents per pound corresjjonds nearly to a price of four dollars per
bushel for wheat, which was frequently raised in quantities of fifty or sixty bushels
per acre — figures that point to the growth of fortunes in small periods of time. The
exportation of produce in bulk was impracticable, for even good wagon roads were not
yet had; hence the home market alone being a dependence. Such products as found a
ready sale at remunerative rates were cultivated. These were wheat, vegetables and
live stock. The former industry was the earliest developed, as it has since continued
the foremost. The farmers of Rogue river valley within fifteen years of the discovery
of gold had become the wealthiest of their class on the Pacific coast, and had placed
agriculture on a more advanced footing than it had attained elsewhere in Oregon. The
breeding and rearing of flocks and herds became also an industry of no small impor-
tance. It needed no skilled prescience to determine that the country was pre-emi-
nently adapted to grazing, as on the hills and mountain slopes flourished uncounted
acres of the richest and most succulent grasses upon which in summer, horses, cattle
and sheep waxed obese and contented. And in time of frost, and snow, and rain, the
animals were able to sustain life at least by the heat-giving powers of their accumulated
fat, with some aid from dried grass, ferns and mosses. Consequently arose the nomadic
class^ of stock-growers or cattle-raisers, so-called, who, however, do not raise cattle
or even maintain herds, but are maintained by them, their principal and seemingly
only necessary occupation being to count their property. Stock-raising has many
votaries, but as conducted in many new countries bears no relation to the industrious
and careful methods of real agriculture.

An enthusiastic visitor to this valley said : " This fertile land will produce in
abundance anything that will grow in the temperate zone." Corn thrives better than
elsewhere in Oregon; vegetables of every variety grow in profusion, among them
sweet potatoes, usually reckoned a semi-tropical production. Cabbages, usually a com-
mon-place product, inspire positive enthusiasm when seen in Southern Oregonian
luxuriance. The onion, of mildest flavor and completely devoid of its usual tear-com-

JACKSON COITNTY. 317

pelling attributes, i.s produced at the rate sometimes of 700 Ixishcls j)er acre. The i)ea,
the bean (Boston's beloved aliment), the cauliflower, the radish, the i)otato, yield mar-
velously, and beyond belief of the farmers of the eflfete east whose highest hopes are
centei-ed upon the manure pile, and who are strangers to the facile ways of the agri-
culturist of the Pacific slope. Small fruits and berries, wherever tried, have succeeded
beyond expectation ; but it is from the culture of orchard and vineyard products that
the people of this region expect the most. Since the decrease of mining and the con-
sequent partial destruction of the home market, and more especially since the coming
of the railroad, it has seemed that the heretofore isolated country will have to adapt
itself to the changed circumstances in which it finds itself. To contemplate the con-
tinued raising of wheat in direct competition with the boundless plains of California
and the Willamette valley, is to foresee a loss of time and opjKirtunities. The lands of
the Rogue river basin are too contracted in area to admit of it ; and besides thev are
more valuable for other purposes. Fruit raising, especially of the apple, pear and
stone fruits, will prove at once a more laborious pursuit and a better paying one. For
twenty years men have been prophesying an era when the fruits of this valley will be
regarded universally as the best in the world and sought for at the highest prices.
Perhaps this is so; probably there is not in the world a locality where certain fruits
attain such excellence in flavor, size and keeping qualities. Men of the widest experi-
ence concede to the apples grown here the highest merits in all desirable qualities-
The grape they have also pronounced unecpialed. Enthusiastic wine-drinkers and
virtuosos, have foreseen a time when all the hill sides would be covered with vineyards,
and when an overflowing population, appeased of their own beverage, should be enjoy-
ing life in the shade of the vines. Soberly speaking, they have predicted that the
laurels of France, German)', and every foreign wine-producing country, as well as
California, would be wrested from them and worn by the lovely vale of the Rogue
river, which will then be the most abundant producer of the best of wines. A many-
sided subject this, and not to be settled by the assertions of individuals, but by experi-
ence alone. Thus far experiments have been successfully conducted in the planting
and care of vines and the making of wine. Some sixty or seventy acres of vines have
been set out, mainly near Jacksonville, where are located the two largest vineyards,
those of R. Morat and J. N. T. Miller, each of whom devote several acres to that cul-
ture. Their wine production, amounting to several thousand gallons annually, is
consumed in the home market, as the cost of transportation has heretofore precluded
its export to the outer world, whereby it would have met a decisive test by comparison
with the wines of other localities. The vineyardist of the present produces a very fair
article of wine, but its manufacturers labor under the disadvantages of a wane of skill
and too minute quantities,to be very strikingly successful. There is certainly no lack
of space for the planting of vineyards, as the hill lands have long been conceded to be
best ada^^ted for grapes, and in this respect California has many advantages also. The
varieties of grapes thus far experimented upon in Jackson county are very small, and
only one, the Mission, is much known. Doubtless this species is the b&st adapted to
the locality and attendant circumstances, being very hardy and requiring little care
and attention. Its wine, however, is distinctly inferior to that of nearly every other
variety. The introduction of suiicrior varieties and the systematic and intelligent

318 SOUTHERN OEEGON.

pui-ijuit of viuiculture as a profession may place the county in the front rank of wine-
producing localities. Again, there is thus far an entire absence of the jjhylloxera, that
pest which is devastating the vineyards of California and most wine-making countries,
and which threatens to utterly destroy the vines of many extensive regions heretofore
renowned for the quantity and quality of their production. This latter is an advan-
tage of no small consequence, but most likely the vineyards of this region will in time
experience the terrible insect's ravages.

A newspaper extract, printed since the capacity of the Rogue river valley for
fruit growing became known, is to this effect: "In all countries valley land is less valu-
able than hill sides for fruit ; the foot hills of the Sierra Nevada are yearly becoming-
more valuable for fruit raising, and the hilly regions of Umpqua and Eogue rivers
invite the exertions of fruit growers in unlimited numbers. There is room enough for
thousands of plantations and orchards. The productiveness of the soil is extreme, it costs
considerable to prepare the land, but a single crop under favorable circumstances as to
transportation would more than repay all previous trouble and expense. The citrus
family may not thrive successfully on the Rogue river, but we can dispense with
oranges, lemons and also with the tenderest grapes and figs, while we raise hardy grapes,
peaches, apricots, apples, pears, plums, ^irunes, cherries and berries in profusion. Nine
years out of ten the peaches are abundant and choice, and with railway communication
provided, would rule the markets of the Willamette and Puget sound, where they can-
not raise peaches. There is practically no limit to the amount of fruit that can be
grown in Jackson county."

The following excellent and well-considered article is taken from a local publica-
tion. It commends itself by the judgment it evinces, and contains hints which the
fruit-grower and consumer have doubtless found of value. " It is because of its superior
fruit that we refer to Rogue river valley as the Italy of Oregon. It is a well known
fact that the finest flavored grapes of California are produced on the sunny slopes of the
foot-hills, and the conditions there found exist in the foot-hill region of Jackson county.
The vines produce large clusters, and the grapes have a most excellent flavor, being-
very juicy and making a superior quality of wine. The conditions of soil and climate
are also very favorable to peaches, the fruit being superior in flavor, though a trifle
smaller in size, to the California product. The slight touch of frost in winter, though
too mild to injure the vines or trees, gives a flavor to the fruit that is lacking in that of
the warmer regions of California. The bottom lands are especially adapted to fruit
culture, and it is that class of soil that has been utilized the most by fruit growers. In
addition to grapes and peaches, apricots, pears, plums, apples, cherries and the usual
fruits produce luxuriantly, and are of excellent quality, especially the apples, which
have no superior anywhere. Hitherto the foot-hills have been used chiefly as a grazing
ground for sheep, but that the flocks will seek 'pastures new' and the laud be planted
extensively in vineyards and orchards is certain. On the whole the fruit interest of
Rogue river valley consists more in the possibilities of the future than in what has
already been accomplished. With no market beyond the limits of Southern Oregon,
farmers had formerly no encouragement to plant extensive orchards or large vineyards,
but enough has been done to show the wonderful adaptability of the soil and climate to
the production of fruit. The whole northwest offers a market at good prices for fruit

JACKSON COUNTY. ,U1>

of all kinds, while certain varieties are largely sought after in the east. There is no
business that can be embarked in with greater promise of a golden reward than that of
fruit culture. It must, however, like everything else, be managed properly to be a great
success. Orchards and vineyards must be planted and taken care of in a systematic
manner and the business from first to last conducted as experience in other places has
shown to be best. Especially must the fruit be put up in an attractive and marketable
shape, well assorted, conveniently packed for handling by the dealer and attractive to
the eye. Experience in California and elsewhere shows that the most successful fruit
raisers are those whose product reaches the market in the best condition and presents
the most inviting appearance. Already we hear of a number of experienced orchardists
who intend to locate in Southern Oregon immediately. It is a great pity that the
farmers of that region have not prepared themselves for the market now being opened,
by planting extensive orchards, but it is by no means too late, though the golden
harvest must be delayed. The men who set out at once large orchards and vineyards
and get them into bearing condition, will be the first to reap their reward. The market
is large, growing and permanent."

In its climate Jackson county is truly blessed. It possesses the combined advan-
tages of many other sections with almost no drawback. In another portion of this
volume the annual rainfall with statistics of temperature are set forth, from which
much may be learned as to its meteorology. The average annual rainfall in the Bear
creek valley is about twenty-five inches — a quantity almost exactly proportioned to
the needs of agriculture. This total is about half that exjierienced in the Willamette
valley, but is considerably more than that of Eastern Oregon. It is sufficient for
every known crop and falls at such times as to perfectly answer the needs of tillage in
every locality. The wisest human foresight could not apportion the rainfall more
satisfactorily, for on the one hand all damage and loss by freshets is nearly obviated,
and on the other the crops and grasses mature under its infiuence. Extremely heavy
rains, as experienced in other localities are unknown here, and injurious floods recur
so seldom and in so insignificant measure as to be of little consequence and not to be
considered. The extreme limits of annual rainfall are not over twenty inches, com-
paring favorably with localities in California where the variation is not less than forty,
and in the northwestern part of Oregon Avhere it is even more. Hence it follows that
a certain amount of rain may be calculated upon, which is the principal element fiivor-
ing sure crops. Again, this rainfall occurs at favorable times of the year, when its
influence is for the good of agriculture. The somewhat infrequent summer showers
jflay their part in laying the dust, purifying the air and renewing the verdure, while
the greater part of rain falls in the colder months, preparing the land for the ojx'ra-
tions of plowing and sowing. The temperature is equally favorable. The extreme
height of the thermometer rarely exceeds ninety-five degrees, and as rarely sinks in
winter below twenty. The range cannot be over seventy degrees in an ordinary
season, while its yearly average is about fifty and one-half degrees. Thus the climate
of Jackson county closely resembles that of California, if we make allowance for the
higher latitude and the consequent depression of the temperature. That j'ortion of the
Golden State lying to the south of this region, hoAvever, is afflicted very fre(|uently by
too excessive rains, which act injuriously upon many occiipations; and in this res])ect

320 SOUTHERN OREGON.

Jacksou county is much more highly favored. Finally, it is a fact that the Rogue
river valley possesses the most favorable climate for agriculture that is known to the
Pacific coast. This fact is easily substantiated by referring to the meteorological tables
published herewith. The regularity of the rainfall and its comparative lightness,
added to the fact of its distribution through the most advantageous part of the year are
necessarily owing to the configuration of the various ranges of mountains which lie
along the coast and modify the vapor-laden winds. Besides the strictly useful effects
of the climate, it has the additional property of being extremely healthful and invigor-
ating. Under such skies and blown upon by such breezes, existence itself is luxurious
contentment. Pure air, abundance of good water — for no country is better supplied
with pure and cool streams — scenery remarkable and hardly surpassed, and finally a
profusion of the choicest productions of the temperate zone, make up all that reason-
able mortals could desire for their chosen abiding place. To name all the features
wherein the Rogue river country is signally blessed would require pages. We might
recall the fact that no serious earthquakes have occurred here since man's advent; no
pestilences dangerous to life have been known; even the common endemic diseases are
scarce; no violent hurricanes, such as have devastated portions of the west, have been
noticed, nor ever can be, because of the surrounding mountains; there have been no
droughts injurious to crops; no "pluvial disj^ensations " of long continuance, by which
floods are produced, lives endangered and property destroyed, and no cold waves of
sufficient intensity to inflict damage. But on the other hand there is an amount of
rich land sufficient for the support of a very numerous population; a climate nourish-
ing and invigorating to plants, man and animals alike: a rainfall exactly sufficient to
meet reasonable wants, sure and abundant enough to fairly co-act with the fertility of
the soil, bringing forth in abundance its choicest productions; there is scenery so grand
and so varied as to fill with wonder the stranger's mind and to never weary the eye of
the oldest pioneer; there is pasturage sufficient for myriads of grazing animals; there
is water power enough to propel the machinery of hundreds of manufactories; there
are quartz veins and gravel deposits bearing gold which for centuries may be worked
with good results; and there is railroad communication with the outside world by
which the numberless rich products of the valley may be transported quickly and
cheaply to market. Such are a portion only of the advantages of the Rogue river
country, in many of which it shares equally with other parts of Southern Oregon.
For the immigrant who desires a home with the comforts and in due time the
elegancies of life, no other part of Anxerica offers equal inducements.

yV/»UHC LITH POBTJ Ji,

Presbyterian Church, Jacksonville.

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

MINERAL RESOURCES OF JACKSON COUNTY.

Minerals found in the County —Mineral Springs -Limestone— Iron— Coal— Mercury -Gravel mining — Progress of
the art— The pan — Rocker— Tom— Sluice —Hydraulic mining How Conducted -The lack of Water— Yield
of the mines— Product decreasing- -Mining locations.

The mineral resources of Jackson county comprise de2)0sits of gold, silver, copper,
iron, lead, salt, coal and limestone, besides granite, sandstone and other rocks suitable
for building purposes. There are mineral springs of various descriirtions, some hot and
some of the sort known as sulphur springs ; there are soda springs in the Siskiyou
mountains, and a variety of less known aqueous effusions, many of them believed to be
viluable for medicinal purposes. Nickel, tin and zinc are said to exist in Jackson
county. Thus far the extraction of gold from auriferous deposits in gravel has been
by far the most imjiortant raining interest, the reduction of quartz containing gold
standing second in importance. The industries depending upon the working of copper,
iron and coal deposits have not as yet attained a commencement, and their relative
importance cannot now be told. Limestone is found in several localities, notably on
Jackson creek, where it is extracted and calcined in kilns, producing a good article of
lime for mason work. At other places it abounds, often attaining the form of marble,
which is well known to be a form of limestone, and which is sometimes of sufficient
purity for statuary uses. This, as well as the iron, coal and copper deposits, may
become of great value in the future.

Cinnabar, the sulphide of mercury, the ore whence quicksilver is derived, has for
many years been known to exist in Jackson county, and in several localities is found
in paying quantities. On Evans' creek, in the western part of the county, claims have
been taken, deposits examined and the metal produced ; but owing to the fall in the
[)rice of that commodity, and to other causes, the dawning industry which was once of
great promise, was suffered to sink into temporary obscurity. At present no quick-
silver is produced in this county, although there is thought to be paying ore sufficient
to supply a very large part of the world's consumirtion for years.

The history of gravel mining in Jackson county is a subject of intense interest,
intermingled as it is with so much of human enterprise and suffering. In every respect
it resembles and is identical with the history of the mining counties of California, with
which state Jackson county has far closer affiliations than with the exclusively agricul-
tural portion of Oregon. Indeed, it is a rather striking and in some sense regrettable
fact that it is not a part of the former state. Settled by the same class of enterprising,
fearless and progressive miners it became the abode of a population who, except for
being surrounded with great agricultui-al advantages, were circumstanced i)recisely as
those of California. The surface mining industiy grew uji under the same conditions,

322 SOUTHERN OREGON.

attained its maximum at the ssame time and has declined in the same proportion.
Hydraulic mining has suffered the same mutations which beset it in the golden state,
excejating as to the famous debris question, but unlike the present condition of the
industry in California, it seems that the deep jjlacers of Jackson and Josephine counties
are so extensive that they may remain unexhausted for centuries.

Three methods of mining have been mainly followed in the extraction of gold ;
whereof two j^ertain to gravel mining, and the other is quartz mining, so-called. One
of the former is called surface placer mining, the other is styled hydraulic mining.
The former process — the washing of gravel from shallow beds — is the forerunner of
the hydraulic process, and although comparatively old, yet as practiced for the last
twenty-five years is an enormous improvement on foreign and antiquated modes of
mining. When in 1848 the sands of California were first found to contain gold, tlie
only known means of separating it from the dirt was by washing with water in a
batea, a wooden bowl in use by Mexican miners for generations. Ordinary culinary
vessels were substituted for lack of these, and by experiment the common milk pan
was found to be by its size and shape well calculated to effect the separation of the con-
tained earth and gold. Accordingly these were first used exclusively, the iron seam-
less "gold pan" now so universally known, being an improvement in manufacture.
Thousands, and probably millions of dollars was thus laboriously and painfully washed
out before the miners advanced to the discovery and use of the rocker or cradle. This
article, also familiar to all residents in mining localities, is a long step in advance of
the pan or batea, as by its use two men are enabled to do the work of six or eight
provided only with the latter instruments. For awhile this apparatus served the pur-
pose for which it was designed, but the increasing scarcity of very rich diggings, added
to the large amount of gravel requisite to be washed to procure what were considered
fair results, led to the introduction of the " tom," a contrivance whereby a steady stream
of water was led upon the gravel, washing it and setting free the gold, whose superior
gravity carried it to the bottom, whereby it became entangled in cross " riffles" and so
saved, while the lighter refuse was carried away by the force of the stream. The pan,
the rocker, and the tom, alike were used wherever water could be procured, the dirt
being usually carried to the water, for no extended ditches had yet been prepared to
bring the water to the dirt. JSText in point of time was the grand discovery of tlie
sluice, Avhich grew by evolution from the pan, the rocker and the tom, and was their
natural successor. Gravel deposits of gi-eater extent had become known, whose mass
was beyond the power of man to move in any ordinary term of life, and for whose
working the ordinary implements of mining were entirely inadequate. Systematic
mining had made now its greatest step ; the water was brought to the gravel and its
laborious handling was confined to shoveling into the sluice wherein a strong stream
ran swiftly, carrying it away, separating its particles and dropping its contained gold
into " riffles" as in the tom. With this improvement the amount of dirt Avhich could
be washed daily depended upon the strength and energy of those who wielded the
l)ick and shovel. Sluices, at first of but slight length, afterwards were adopted in a
continuous line hundreds of yards in length, whereby a larger percentage of gold was
saved. The line usually led directly across the claim ; and the " bronzed and hardy
gold-seekers," partners in the profits, stood upon either side of the boxes and shoveled

JACKSON COUNTY. 323

the earth into them. This irajn-ovement led to the formation of companies of miners,
whereby advantages accrued in securing " water rights" and " dumping grounds" and
sufficient quantities of " pay dirt," which would usually have been impossible to solitary
workers. Ground-sluicing and booming, related inventions, still of practical use, took
their rise co-incident with the sluice. Finally we come to the last great step in gravel
mining — the invention of the hydraulic process. With the continued use of the sluice
the greater part of the valuable shallow deposits were worked and pay dirt became
scarcer year by year, while in certain localities in California and Oregon the existence
of enormous beds of auriferous gravel, comparatively poor in gold, had been discov-
ered, but could not be worked by any known means owing to the high price of labor.
In some instances these deposits were of tolerable richness, but were overlaid by a
great depth of worthless earth, frequently one hundred or more feet in depth. In such
cases a considerable quantity of gold-bearing dirt was sometimes extracted by " drift-
ing," that is, by tunneling in to the dejjosit and removing it by hand, as in quartz
mining. This, too, is an expensive process, and the exigencies of the situation led to
the invention of the " giant" and the use of a powerful jet of water thrown against a
bank of earth, whereby it is washed into the sluices without the intervention of manual
labor except in directing the working stream. The earliest records of hydraulic
washing show that a miner in Calaveras county, California, first applied the principle,
using an extemporized canvas hose leading from a barrel so placed as to receive the
water of a spring. Its value was soon perceived and " hydraulics" came slowly into
use, but not of course in the manner now in jiractice. Larger amounts of water and
higher " heads" have been successively introduced until now, in certain instances, sev-
eral hundred cubic feet of water per minute is forced through a single nozzle, with the
]ircssure due to 400 feet of fall. Such a stream moves bouldei'S of immense size, hurls
earth and cobbles to a height of many feet, and erodes great hills and mountain sides
(hiring a season's work. All the appurtenances of hydraulic raining have advanced
in the same degree. There are companies lately operating in California who had pre-
pared ditches of forty miles or more in length, carrying in an extreme case 10,0(X)
miner's inches of water (a miner's inch is equal to one and a half cubic feet per min-
ute), which is led to the claims under pressure of from 250 to 400 feet. In iSouthern
Oregon the process was early introduced ; its working has nearly always been attended
with profit ; and there remains at this day a very large amount of earth fit to l)e
worked and which will be "jjiped" away when water can be brought upon it. Tlie
minimum for which auriferous dirt can be worked with profit by the hydraulii- pro-
cess, where all the surroundings are advantageous, is five cents per cubic yartl ; and
most workings must contain four times that in order to pay. To digress somewhat, let
it be observed that a cubic yard is about 17o or 200 panfuls ; if, then, it required
twenty-five cents worth of gold to make a panful worth working in the " flush times,"
it seems that the process of washing is now performed at nearly one thousand times
less cost than formerly. Undoubtedly there are very great and extensive deposits of
auriferous gravel in Jackson and Josephine counties which contain much more than
twenty cents per cubic yard ; and there is a great additional advantage in that the
debris resultino- from their WDrkingcan never be seriously (jctriincntal, as any injury

324 SOUTHERN OREGON.

to the navigation of tlie Illinois; and Rogue rivers and A2)plegate creek need not be
a subject of solicitude.

As a great and unfailing amount of water is necessary for the successful prosecu-
tion of hj'draulic mining, and as heretofore the greater part of the hydraulic miners of
Southern Oregon have only been able to work their claims for a few months each
year, depending upon the rains for their su^^ply, it has been deemed of great moment
that water be procured from a more reliable source than the creeks and springs hereto-
fore dejsended on. With this view it has been suggested to tap the Klamath river
above Cottonwood creek, and bring its waters by a long, wide and deep ditch to the
placers in Applegate and other localities. Such a ditch would be an immensely costly
undertaking, no doubt, as its length would probably reach seventy miles; but that it
would be a pecuniary success is the opinion of many miners. Another scheme is for
the introduction of water from the falls of Rogue river, whereby a ditch fifty miles
long would be required, and the water used in various localities where deep placers
exist, as Foot's creek, etc. The Sentinel in 1859 suggested the use of artesian wells as
a source of water; but this suggestion, although backed by cogent arguments, showing
how it was likely from the shape of the Rogue river basin that water exists in exten-
sive gravel strata beneath the surface and under immense pressure, Avas not acted upon,
and, indeed, has elsewhere proved unfeasible.

The area of gold mines in Southern Oregon is bounded on the east by a line
which begins on the North Umpqua river where the Willamette meridian crosses that
stream, continues south across the South Umpqua, then bending west passes down the
right bank of Rogue river to the mouth of Bear creek, proceeds up that creek to the
vicinity of Barron's, and so passes into California. ' Eastward of the line no gold, save,
perhaps, occasional traces has ever been found. It will be noticed that the boundary
line bends westward in the Rogue river basin. All that portion of Jackson county
lying west of that line is considered as the mining district, and includes about one-
third of the county's whole area. Within the district are the gravel mining localities
known and celebrated under the names of Jackson creek, Sterling creek, Applegate,
Forest creek (otherwise known as Jackass), Foot's creek, Kane's creek, Evans' creek.
Pleasant creek. Sardine creek. Ward's creek, Poorman's creek. Grave creek (Leland
creek). Jump-off- Joe creek. Coyote creek, Louse creek, Wagner creek. Phoenix, etc., as
well as the quartz claims of Gold hill, Jackson creek. Steamboat, and many others.
Here was mined a vast amount of treasure which played the foremost part in building-
up and developing the resources of this cotmtry. Many millions of wealth were here
taken out, and the history of the industx-ious miners who did the work forms, here as
elsewhere, the most -interesting of all the records of the past. Nor is the mining
industry by any means at an end. The rich and shallow placers were doubtless pretty
nearly exhausted years ago, and only a few miners, mostly relics of the past, continue
to work over and again the sands which have yielded so much. But there still exist
deep deposits of unworked and as yet itnworkable grounds, which, by the scarcity of
water, have never been utilized, and these in the future will doubtless be found to iJay.
Some of these would give, say the experienced, an immense return if projserly worked
by hydraulic process. The capitalist or miner who desires to make trial of these
deposits is confronted liv the lu-oblem of how water is to l)e procured, and retires satis-

JACKSON COITNTX. 3J5

fietl that no ordinary outlay will provide a sufficient supply. Still, there will doubtless
be found some man or an association of men who will be willing to make an invest-
ment of sufficient capital to construct an immense ditch, bringing water from a great
distance to the beds, and then by means of hydraulic appai'atus washing down the
great banks and separating the gold.

Statisticians have frequently attempted to ascertain the yield of the mines of Jack-
son county during all the years subsequent to its settlement ; but a distant approxima-
tion is only to be achieved. The principal association concerned in handling , the
jjroduct has been the express company of Wells, Fargo & Co., whose agent at Jackson-
ville testifies to having forwarded ten million dollars worth of gold since 1856. A
small portion only of this may have come from Josephine county. It is the agent's
opinion that an equal amount was extracted during the same time Avhich found other
means of egress from the locality. By calculations based upon these figures we are apt
to arrive at the opinion that thirty millions represents the quantity mined between the
years 1851 and 1884, in Jackson county alone. This is regarded as a reasonable esti-
mate, but the true amount may be millions greater or less. Of this amount the quartz
mines have furnished a sum somewhat in excess of half a million dollai-s.

While the average annual yield may have been quite a million a year, the out-put
of precious metal has in general decreased each year from 1856 until the present. In
the years preceding 1860 it is thought to have averaged over one and a quarter mil-
lions, whereas in the year named it was probably not above $1,150,000. By 1870 it
had decreased to two-thirds of that amount, and in succeeding years, as the placers
become extinct and mining population diminished, very little was done in shal-
low diggings, the hydraulics taking the place of picks and shovels, and the yearly
product has now sunk to less than .|250,000. The yield depends however on the rela-
tive rainfall of the season, for circumstanced as the most of the miners are they must
look to the evanescent clouds of the heavens for the means wherewith to make their
mines produce.

The extent of the mining industry in Jackson county is shown by the fact that
5438 mining locations were made from October 8, 185(), to June 30, 1880. Of these
sixteen were co^jper, one tin, 124 cinnabar, and the rest gold and silver. There were
1221 conveyances of mining claims and 133 transfers of water ditches and rights during
the same time. The claims were located as follows : In Big Applegate District, 466 ;
in Little Applegate, 39; Uniontown, 2; Sterling, 151; Jackass, 491; Jackson-
ville, 1463; Forty-nine, 234; Willow Springs, 785; Gold Hill, 3(51; Gairs creek, 95 ;
Foot's creek, 288; Evans' creek, 115; Sardine creek, 132; Louse creek, 25; Dry Diggings;
33; Jump-oflP-Joe, 114; Grave creek, 224; Coyote creek, 75; Poorman's creek, 300;
Steamboat, 45.

CHAPTER XXXIX.

QUARTZ MINING IN JACKSON COUNTY.

Two Years of Prospecting-— Distinction Between Milling and Pocket Veins— Pocket Mining— An Easy Road
to Riches— The First Quartz Mine— The Gold Hill Mine— Enormous Yield The First Quartz Mill— The
Black well Lead— The Jewitt Mine— Mines on Jackson Creek— Two Quartz Mills — The Fowler Mine-
Its History — A Silver Excitement.

The history of quartz mining in Jackson county mostly centers about the dis-
covery of the rich leads at Gold hill and Steamboat, and is mainly embraced in the
two years of 1860 and 1861, in the first of which the greatest results were attained
and the greatest amount of work done. Thus quartz mining will be seen to occupy
but a single short period in the county's history, and resembles a spasmodic outburst
which suddenly began and as suddenly ceased without very beneficial immediate
results to the community, but giving great hopes for a future time when, the subject
of mining and milling being better understood, much greater things may be expected.
The ledges of gold-bearing quartz have not proved particularly numerous, but perhaps
as large a proportion of them have been found to contain workable rock as in any
other part of the country. Indeed, it would be difficult to point out any locality
whatever in which the net returns have been greater for the amount invested and the
work done. The experience of miners has shown that the veins of Jackson county
are "spotted" — that is, their content of gold is not uniformly distributed throughout
the mass of quartz, but is collected within small spaces of abnormally rich rock
technically called "pockets." In other mining countries the same thing occurs; and
practical quartz miners are in the habit of distinguishing such veins by the name of
"pocket leads," in contradistinction to those veins where gold is uniformly dissemi-
nated throughout, which are called "milling leads," as requiring reduction by mill
process, whereas pocket veins are worked by more simj^le means. The working of
pocket veins has become an industry of no small imj)ortance in the "slate belt" of
California, and it is highly possible that a few hints from the experience of the busy
workers there might assist in developing the hidden wealth of Jackson county-
Twenty years, during which "hunting pockets" has become an exclusive pursuit
carried on without reference to ordinary mining, has brought the occupation to the
dignity of an art and a profession. The initiated talk abstrusely of "leads," "dikes,"
"crossings," "elbows," "bends," "blue slate" and the other technicalities of their pur-
suit, and have formulated the principles supposed to determine the location of pockets
with such approximation as to enable the seeker in many cases to discover the hidden
treasure. Pocket mining is the most absorbing and interesting pursuit in the world;
and whoever becomes tinctured with it will remain devoted to it for his lifetime.
There are many instances known of men laboring assiduously at it for ten, twelve and

JACKSON COIjNTY. 3J7

more years, without oiire striking a color. Its rewards are ill-proportioned, l)ut, per-
haps, as certain as those of any brancli of gold mining. The greatest pockets known
to have been found yielded a quarter of a million of dollars, the two eminent examples
which occurred in Jackson county being hardly surpassed. The jiursuit possesses the
distinguishing and obvious advantage that it can be carried on without capital, and by
the exertions of a single individual or two partners. It is customarily followed by
two in preference to any other number, espeeiallj' in case of shaft workings, wherein
one man loads the bucket with rock while the other turns the windlass to raise it.
With only the ordinary excavating tools and explosives, and with a season's supply f
provisions, the latter perhaps advanced as a "grub stake" by some sjieculative trailer,
the pocket miner is enabled to pursue his calling, often with good results, sometiir.os
with surpassing luck, and frequently without the slightest return. The art of pocl;'.;t
mining consists essentially in discovering what are called crossings — narrow v ins of
quartz or yellowish "dike," so-called — and tracing these to their intersectio. with an
ordinary quartz vein, at which jioint, by some mysterious dispensation of nature, a
pocket is usually formed. Elbows are bends in the vein, at which pockets are also to
be looked for. The intersection is arrived at by means of a shaft or a tunnel of small
diameter, frequently only a yard or so, as the object invariably is to remove as little
dirt as possible. Having calculated where the pocket probably lies, the miner arrives
at that point in the most expeditious and least laborious way possible, proceeding,
usually, along the quartz vein in order to test by means of the pan the nearness of the
gold deposit. The "color" is usually struck at a distance of a few feet and thereafter
all the earth taken out is jealously examined lest the pocket be passed and so lost.
When finally it is arrived at, the gold is almost entirely contained within the space of
a few cubic feet, and frequently of a single bucketful. A panful of the quartz, usually
ilecomposed and soft, may yield a thousand dollars or more. Thus the use of a mill
or arastra is most frequently obviated, a single hand mortar and pestle being sufficient
for the reduction of the rock, after which it is washed in a pan. Thus unpretentiously,
have been taken out some pockets containing not merely ounces, but hundreds of
pounds of gold. At otlier times the gold is found disseminated through several tons of
quartz, of varying richness, which requires the use of heavier machinery, either an
arastra or stamp mill. Of the former sort was the great Divoll pocket, found in
Sonora, California, which yielded over $200,000 in a week, and of the other class was
the Fowler ledge at Applegate, which was more productive, but more slowly extracted.
Thus systematically is pocket quartz mining pursued in a district of California where
a thousand miners, an industrious and worthy class, exist by it. Without their pres-
ence the country they inhabit would be almost deserted; for they sustain trade and the
small number of agriculturists residing near by. There are, perhaps, suflicient oppor-
tunities for the cultivation of their art in the quartz deposits of Jackson county to
support an equal number of miners, all of whom would contribute to the material
advancement of the countjy. Perhaps some may reply. There is no opportunity; the
veins have all been prospected, and the gold removed. To this we answer, The quartz
veins have in no case been worketl far below the surface ; two hundred feet or there-
abouts measures the deepest shaft; but that is a mere scratch, hardly worth consider-

328 SOUTHERN OREGON.

ing. Possibly the veins are equally rich at all depths, and rich pockets may exist in
the lower portions of veins as well as near the surface.

The quartz veins which were first met with by the miners frequently were found
to contain pockets of decomposed rock with gold, which being accidentally found upon
the surface, the gold was extracted by crushing in a mortar, and no further thought
was given to the subject of quartz containing gold, though the theory of that mineral
being the " original matrix" of the precious metal had had previous currencj'. The
idea of sinking upon and 'exploring the veins was not entertained until the quartz
mania broke out in California and spread across the border into Oregon. The first
quartz lead which was prospected in Jackson county was the Hicks lead, on the left
fork of Jackson creek, above Farmer's Flat. Sonora Hicks and brotlier, the discov-
erers, worked this vein in a necessarily imperfect way and took out some gold, getting,
said the fSentinef, $1,000 in two hours! Theirs was a pocket vein, and no mill or
arastra was thought of in connection with it. Maury, Davis and Taylor owned the
adjoining claim, and put up an arastra upon it, the first apparatus of the kind in Ore-
gon. The latter firm purchased the Hicks claim and worked its rock in their arastra.
The total yield of the original claim, the first quartz lead worked in Oregon, was
about |2,o6o.

The next quartz discovery of importance was that of the famous Gold Hill
lode, near Fort Lane. This took place in January, 1860, the discoverer being one
Graham, known as " Emigrant," who, with George Ish, James Hayes, Thomas Chav-
ner and John Long, as partners, located this astonishingly rich lode and began to work
it. There was an abundance of float rock, found lying upon the surface of
the hill, which yielded fabulously in gold, and as soon as the news of the strike
became known the whole hill was staked out in claims, the boundaries marked some-
times by stretching ropes, and men were busily at work picking up float and crushing
it in mortars, whereby much money was realized. Mr. Henry Klijjpel, the father of
quartz mining in Southern Oregon, found a piece of mixed gold' and quartz weighing
thirteen ounces, which yielded $100 ; and others reported as good results. Excitement
ran high. Jacksonville, previously dull, began to bloom. Men who were notoriously
" broke" began to put on airs of wealth. Money circulated with facility and every one
partook, in spirit, of the good fortune. A daily stage was put on the route between
Jacksonville and the new mines, which was crowded with sight-seers, speculators and
jjrospectors. An eating house sprang up near the mine, and Morgan Davis inaugu-
rated a trading post. Quartz stock was up ; prospecting seized as a fever upon the
whole country ; and fabulous discoveries were rej^orted in every direction. As for the
original owners of the Gold Hill lead their fortunes seemed boundless, but dissension
broke out in their camp. James Hayes, becoming dissatisfied, sold out to Henry
Klippel, John McLaughlin and Charles Williams, for $5,000. Graham sold also to
Messrs. Klippel and John E. Ross, for the same sum, the use of the money costing
those gentlemen ten per cent, per month. Two arastras were put up to reduce the
quartz, mules being the motive power, and armed men guarded the apparatus, mine
and quartz wagons from the envious and predacious crowd. Weekly clean-ups were
in order and 1,000 ounces of well retorted gold was frequently divided on Saturdays.
For some time this extraordinary out-put continued, when the desires of the owners

" a
> ?

o >
en

JACKSON COUNTY. 329

outran the capabilities of the slow and primitive mule-propelled arastra, and a stfuni
(]uartz mill with all the modern improvements was resolved u])on. This, the first
(juartz mill in Jackson county, was purchased in San Francisco and shipped to the
mine by the firm of Klippel, McLaughlin & Williams, whose undertaking was to
crush the mining company's quartz for eight dollars per ton, themselves retaining own-
ership in the mill. The mill was shipped to Gold Hill via Scottsburg, in the spring of
1860, and great difficulty was experienced in transporting the heavy boiler, mortars,
etc. The cost of freighting was about $2,600, and the total cost of the mill when in
running order was about $12,000. It was a twelve-stamp mill, of the ordinary type
of free gold mill, amalgamating in battery, and crushing Avet- Its first performance
was the reduction of one hundred tons of refuse quartz, thrown aside as being too poor
for the arastra process, which yielded one hundred dollars per ton. The mill was
located at the Dardanelles, and here the rock was hauled from the mine. The next
run was on ordinary quartz from the vein, unassorted, and very much to the surprise
of all it yielded only three dollars per ton — owing, as was supposed, to defective
amalgamation. Another run was carefully conducted for six weeks with a result of
two dollars and forty cents per ton. Public confidence in the mine was much shaken.
In August the mill and mine suspended oj^erations. In the subsequent workings of
the lode very little has been realized. The total product of this famous mine, accord-
ing to Mr. Henry Klippel, was about $150,000, nearly all of which was taken from a
confined space in the mine, only twenty-two feet long by ten in height and the thick-
ness of the vein, which is less than a yard. Repeated tests of ore from other portions
of it failed invariably, because the mine is without doubt a pocket ledge, and only to
be successfully worked as such. The major part of the explorations subsequently per-
formed consisted in sinking a shaft 130 feet deep, on the vein, and running two tunnels
to intersect the shaft. A great many small prospect holes have also been sunk, but
not to any considerable depth. The vein has all of the characteristics supposed by
" mining experts" to insure permanency. It dips somewhat to the east, has a thick,
soft " gouge," smooth, well-defined walls, and other presumed valuable qualifications.
After its first successful working, its ownership became the subject of a notable law-
suit, that of Jacob Ish vs. The Gold Hill INIining Company, wherein the plaintiff
sought to dispossess defendants. Ish had entered the land embracing the mining
])roperty as agricultural, and had secured a 2>atent thereto, the company renniining in
ignorance thereof until its issuance. The circuit court of Jackson county sustained
the plaintiff", but upon appeal to the supreme court of Oregon, the decision of the
lower court was reversed, thereby, says Mr. Klippel, first enunciating the principle
that the state courts have the authority to annul agricultural land grants to individuals
in conflict with prior claims. Messrs. Klippel, McLaughlin & Williams lost $11,0(X)
on the mill. After they had demonstrated its want of success, they leased it to a i)arty
of Yreka miners who were equally unsuccessful. 8ubse([ucntly the mill was sold
for $5,000 to Jewitt Brothers and Douthitt, and removed to the Jewitt mine near
Vannoy's ferry, where it did good service for awhile, and after was converted into a
saw mill. The machinery was dismantled, and some years later the engine was
removed to Parker's saw mill on Big Butte ci-eek, where it is still in use.

330 SOUTHERN OREGON.

The Blackwell lead was discovered a short time subsequent to the fiiidiug of the
Gokl Hill vein. This mine proved far less rich than the other, yielding altogether but
a few thousand dollars, though having a very promising appearance. It was actively
worked and produced at first a good supply of beautiful specimens worth some thous-
ands. In the summer of 1860 and subsequently, it was owned by C. C Beekman,
William Hoffman, Dr. L. S. Thompson and U. S. Hayden, who made a contract witii
the proprietors of the Gold Hill quartz mill to work the mine and crush the ore, turn-
ing over to the owners of the lead the amount realized above necessary expenses of
working. The deposit of quartz gave out, however, and the attempt failed. At later
times the Blackwell lead has been worked, but to no apparent purpose. In 1882 a
rotary quartz crusher was put up at the mine and is being experimented with. The
total yield of the Blackwell has been from ten to twenty thousand dollars.

The Jewitt ledge, situated on the south side of Rogue river in township thirty-six,
south, range five, west, was first prospected in 18(30 by the Jewitt brothers, who had
caught the quartz fever in common with the rest of the population of Jackson and
Josephine counties. Indications proving favorable thej^ associated themselves with
D. William Douthitt, of Jacksonville, and began to work their vein. They were
signally successful ; they took out $40,000, says Mr. Klippel, and having exhausted the
deposit, ceased work. Their rock paid fifty dollars per ton at the first clean-up, the
lode being six feet thick at the working point. Subsequent work on the claim has
revealed nothing of great importance, but indications are said to be favorable for another
rich strike. In 1874 or the succeeding year Messrs. Klippel and Beekman, having
possession of the claim, purchased an engine and boiler and set up two steam arastras
to work the rock. But owing to certain causes their operations failed of success. The
name Elizabeth was given to the ledge. The assay value of the rock is said to average
twenty-one dollars, and the arastras pay twelve dollars per ton, the vein's average width
now being three feet.

Next in importance stands the Swindeu ledge, near Gold Hill, on the donation
claim of John Swindeu. It was owned by several partners and was prospected in 18G0,
and in 1862 and 1863 was worked, by a shaft, the quartz being reduced in an arastra.
The vein was tolerably rich, at least in one spot, and paid something above expenses,
it is thought, though the cost of working was considerable. The ledge is two and a
half feet thick and is still thought valuable. In the same mining region are several
other veins which have been considerably worked and are still regarded as valuable.
The McDonough and Shump veins are of this class. On Foot's creek quite a number
of quartz locations have been made from which a considerable amount of wealth has
been extracted, with a first-rate prospect for future success. In 1860 Foot's creek
(piartz mines were reported to be paying handsomely. The rock was described as dark
and soft, with specks of gold visible throughout. Johnson's, and Lyons and Peebler's
ledges were particularly successful, according to newspaper reports. In 1861 these
leads were mentioned as having fallen off" in richness, only ten dollars per ton being-
realized. On Jackson creek, especially on the right branch, several veins of quartz of
considerable promise have at times been prospected, the greater part of the work being-
done in 1860, directly following the Gold Hill discovery, and at a time that we may
designate as the epoch of quartz mining, since at no previous or subsequent time have

JACKSON COUNTY. 331

there been any developmeuts to compare with those which took place that year. Four
locations were found on Shively gulch, from each of which considerable gold was taken.
The principal of these was the Holman ledge, which yielded a total of about $10,000
a.>^ reported by credible witnesses. The rock from this mine was worked in the Jack-
son creek quartz mill, situated at the forks of Jackson creek. This mill was erected by
Henry Pape, who came from Yreka for the purpose and was built in the summer of
LS()0, at a time when quartz excitement ran high. Mr. Pape had contracted to crush
(piartz from eight or nine ledges, on the creek, to the amount of 1000 tons for eight
dollars per ton, provided tlie rock paid that much. The first run was from the Holman,
eighty or one hundred tons of it yielding forty-two dollars per ton. From a small lot
taken from the Davenport claim on the right branch, seventy-five dollars per ton was
obtained ; but this mine like all the rest was sjoeedily exhausted. Mr. Pape ran the
mill (eight stamps, steam) for four months, at the end of that time selling two-thirds of
it to a company of several persons, by whom it was run some months longer. In rather
less than a year from its inception it was changed into a saw mill, and at a later date
the battery was in use on Wagner creek, where Messrs. Anderson arid Rockfellow were
working a quartz lead. The engine was put into a saw mill on Forest creek.

Another mill was put rather later on by Charles Drew and Samuel Bowtlen, a
small affair and unsuccessful. It was located up the right branch of Jackson creek and
in tlie vicinity of several promising veins mainly in Timber and Shively gulches.
This mill differed from the others in having an amalgamating pan and settler, it being-
supposed that there was a notable amount of silver in the veins, which would be lost in
ordinary battery amalgamation. The mill, after a checkered career of two or more
years, was taken down and the boiler is now in use at Karewski's flour mill at Jackson-
ville, while a portion of the battery lies upon the ground not far away.

In 1860 Messrs. Johnson, Cupps and Woods possessed a lode U2)0n the right
branch, from which fifty ounces of gold were taken in one day. Afterwards Mr. Elder
])uichased the interest of the two latter and with Johnson, a most persistent quartz
miner who still pursues his chosen calling, erected an arastra near their claim, driven
by an over-shot water wheel. Boatman and Sheets carried on work upon a vein in
Shively gulch, with some success. Elder, Johnson's partner, was a member of the
tiiin to whom H. Pape sold his quartz mill, the remaining partners being Dr. (Tanung,
nfterwards the coroner of Jackson county, and three Germans.

The extraordinary quartz mine known by the several names of the Fowler loile,
the Applegate quartz mine, and the Steamboat ledge is situated in township 40, range
4 west, on the right foi'k of Big Applegate, called Carberry fork, about 200 yards
below the summit of the divide separating that stream from Brushy creek, and is
seventeen miles by road south of the site of the trading post once owned by \V. W.
Fowler and Keeler, on Applegate creek. It was discovered in February, 1860, by
Frank Fitterman, William Billups and otliers, who afterwards received into the firm
Captain Barnes, John Ely, William P. Ferris, W. W. Fowler and G. W. Keeler, the
two latter obtaining their interest in consequence of having furnished the "grub stake"
by which the discoverers were enabled to prospect. The rock promised fairly at first
and was merely explored a little, until an arastra was completed in June, 1860, and
the lode regularly opened. For several months only an average yield wa-; recorded,

332 SOUTHERN OREGON.

until the begiuning of the following year, when the extremely rich portion of the ledge
was found. Then the full wealth of the deposit was developed, and an enormous yield
was obtained. In one week in February, 1861, money enough was made to pay all
previous expenses of the mine. Thirty-five tons of quartz yielded $350 per ton, and
fifty tons, comprising the next lot, produced $18,500, or $370 per ton. But these
yields were eclipsed by successive ones, for the newspapers of the day spoke of $10,000
as the income for one week, 1,470 ounces as the product of another, and $2,352 as the
average yield jaer ton of the rock worked in March, 1861. Four arastras had been put
up and other improvements were resolved upon, when Captain Barnes and Ely sold
out their interest to Fowler for $6,000. Ferris had previously sold for a comfortable
sum, leaving the seven shares divided as follows: Barues and Ely, three shares; D.
L. Hopkins, one; McKay and O'Brien, one; Fowler and Keeler, one; Fowler,
Anderson and James T. Glenn, one. Mr. Samuel Taylor, a miner of experience, became
superintendent in November, 1861, and retained that position for nearly two years,
during which the yield was about $190,000, making with the previous yield a total of
$280,000. Subsequently about $10,000 was taken out, and to this should be added
about $25,000 supposed to have been realized by the O'Brien companj-, a rival firm
which was working the same lead on the other side of the divide. Thus the whole
yield of the lead may be summed up at $315,000, which is the amount reported by
Superintendent Taylor. After using the arastras for a time, a four-stamp mill was
erected, but the supply of rock gave out before it could be utilized. The above-
mentioned firm of O'Brien & Company took up their claim upon the same lead, which
infringed upon the original company and produced a lawsuit of great celebrity and
expensiveness. The Fowler company claimed a portion of land supposed to overlie
the vein, but which was found not to do so except for a small portion of its length.
The other company ascertained the defect in their rival's position, and took advantage
of it by filing an adverse claim. In the courts, after protracted litigation, the Fowler
company won, after running tunnels and doing other work to demonstrate the truth of
their claims. They got possession of the whole lead, but subsequently took out very
little gold, the deposit being pretty nearly exhausted. The mine was abandoned by
the owners but afterwards re-located by Mr. Cook, who has made efforts to prove the
existence of yet more wealth, but thus far without success. He has tunneled about 300
feet without noticeable results, but still works and hopes.

This concludes the effective history of quartz mining in Jackson county, all
developments subsequent to 1861 having an abortive cast, and being inconsequential in
comparison with the operations of 1860-1. About 1866 quite an excitement was
occasioned by rejjorted discoveries of rich silver ore in the hills near Willow Springs.
Enormous percentages were returned by assayers and people without distinction of age,
race or color hastened to locate claims, 256 of these being recorded. The Jacksonville
Reporter caught the infection and in an earnest editorial uttered the opinion that the
new silver mines of Jackson county were incomparably richer than those of the Coni-
stock lode in Nevada, and " if properly worked will produce enough of wealth for
every man, woman and child in Oregon." In conclusion the editor expressed the
heartfelt wish that there should be no legal squabbling about the ownership of claims.

S'

it

JACKSON COUNTY. 333

Litigation proved umieceswiry ; and within a few months "every man, woman and
child in Oregon" knew that the silver veins contained no silver.

Of a better sort is the Esther mine on Upper Grave creek. This mining pro[)erty
lies in a belt of valuable quartz ledges, and is thought to be a good mine, althongli
undeveloped. The possessors are the Messrs. Browning, father and son, who
have labored for years to get the mine in shape to produce. It is on the right
bank of Grave creek, a mile from the stream, and the vein is from one to two feet
thick. There was a time — about 1876 — when the Esther was the foremost min-
ing pro^oerty in Jackson county; but lack of skill or capital, or both, have
injured its successful working. A mill containing four stamps, driven by water, was
put up some half dozen years ago, and later on a joint-stock company secured the
property and worked it somewhat, running for two years with considerable success.
The rock, partaking of the milling character, yielded twelve or fourteen dollars per
ton.

CHAPTER XL.

THE EARLY PIONEERS

The Earliest Pioneers in Jackson County-The First Impressions -A Lovely Valley -Contrasts -The Southern
Route Settlers in 185 1 -The First Land Claims Taken-Discovery of Gold at Rich Gulch— Rapid immi-
gration of Miners -A Rush Roads.

The early pioneers of Kogue river valley have with singular unanimity and
earnestness borne witness to the sensations with which their hearts were thrilled
Avhen they first set eyes upon the fair region of which we now speak. Those
tired and travel-worn men and women had set out for the Pacific shore as for a
laud of promise, and throughout the long and terribly wearying journey had
traveled slowly toward the setting sun, intent only upon reaching the country so often
but dimly described, and from whence such romantic and charming accounts had come.
They watched the passage of time while days lengthened into weeks and months, and
the slow beasts of burden dragged the loaded wagons, the emigrant's shifting home,
and man and beast alike felt the heavy ills of life. The desolate and never-ending
plains, the drouth, the imminence of death from thirst and hunger, tiie ever-present
fear of hostile Indians, and the terrible isolation and loneliness of the route, weighed
upon the souls of even the strongest, and many laid down their heavy burdens and sank
to rest far from the goal they had struggled to reach. Perhaps there never lived a
class of men and women i>f such strong and self-reliant character as these early

334 SOUTHERN OREGON.

pioneers. They were cradled in hardship, spending their early years on the border of
the then nttermost west. To jienetrate into unexplored wilds and there subdue the
earth, and lay the foundation of a state was to them a second nature — a desire trans-
mitted from their j^arents, whose glorious characteristic was also to advance the bounds
of progress and civilization, and make glad the waste places where man had never
previously trod. Theirs was the mission to keep forever in the fore-front of the battle
which man is ever waging with the forces of nature, and from the wildest regions
accessible to man to send back the glad news that freedom had found yet another
breathing place. Of such descent, and of such aspirations, were the jiioneers of Jack-
son county, and how they fulfilled their self-appointed task these pages will briefly
and imperfectly tell.

After the straits to which a six-months' land journey across the most desolate part of
North America had brought them, how welcome to their vision must have been the
sight of the grassy plains, the wooded slopes, and tree-fringed water courses of Southern
Oregon. How deep the song of thankfulness that arose from their breasts ! Possibly
the divine artificer could have created a more beautiful, a more fruitful valley, but
doubtless he never did. If we may believe those pioneers, the country was one of
primitive wildness, yet of obvious fertility and productiveness. The wild grasses grew
in profusion, covering everywhere the land as with a garment of the softest and most
luxuriant verdure. The hill sides were concealed beneath this marvelous plant growth
which hid nature's ugliest scars from view. The rich soil, as yet unimpaired in fer-
tility, sent up the stalks to the height of a man or of a horse. Wild berries flourished ;
the beautiful mountain streams, clear as glass and of most refreshing coolness, ran,
unpolluted by the dirt from mines. The wild deer and elk, grazed undisturbed in the
open meadow, or sought the shade of their leafy coverts and gazed out upon their
quiet world. The hill tops, now mainly covered by dense thickets of manzanita,
madroue and evergreen brush, were then devoid of bushes and trees because of the
Indian habit of burning over the surface in order to remove obstructions to their seed
and acorn gathering. In the streams roved the trout, the salmon-trout and the salmon,
the favorite sustenance of the Indians. Some scattered villages of natives formed
the only fixed population of the beautiful Rogue river valley, which were located near
Table Rock, on Ashland creek, Little Butte creek, and at a few other points, where in
after years they struggled manfully against the incoming tide of white settlers.

Such was the aspect of the lovely valley of Rogue river when first beheld by the
immigrants at the close of their arduous journey. The current of emigration which,
setting at first for the vale of the Willamette, had been partially diverted toward the
gold fields of California, suifered a still further change by the beginning of 1852,
when the gold placers of the Rogue river country were discovered and the town of
Jacksonville was founded. To thoroughly understand this change it is necessary to
review a portion of the preceding events. Tlie Willamette valley, we have said, was
tlie objective point of the stream of immigration, prior to the discovery of gold in
California. Since 1843 the fertile region of the Willamette had received constant
though small accessions of population, the most of whom, starting from the border
states and territories of the Mississippi valley, found their way by long and toilsome
iourueys to the Columbia region. The Dalles being a point upon their route. The

JACKSON COUNTY. 3;!5

Cascade rauge lying to the east of tlie infont settlements upon the AVillaniette, as yet
had not been explored, and was supposed to present insuperable obstacles to travel.
To the south of the settlements lay Southern Oregon, known only to a few adventurous
spirits who had traveled its wilds and brought back reports of the untamable ferocity
of its inhabitants. The condition of things was such as to prevent the Rogue river
valley and the neighboring regions from being explored, although no doubt eveu at
that early day its fertility and desirability were partly understood and somewhat
spoken of. In another part of this volume the experiences of the trappers and earlier
travelers through this region have been set forth as far as they relate to the character
of the Indian inhabitants, and some of the more notable expeditions between the Wil-
lamette and California liave been mentioned. Of a more important character was the
expedition of the Applegates, in 1846, in search of a route by which the emigrants,
now coming overland in increasing numbers, could reach the Willamette more easily
and quickly than by The Dalles route. This journey of discovery, previously refen-ed
to herein, resulted in opening a passage by which many thousands of people entered
Oregon and California, it being widely known under the name of the southern route,
or south road. In the year of its discovery a considerable number of people entered
Oregon, passing through the Rogue river valley, the line of travel entering at the head
of Bear creek and following the old California and Oregon trail from the Siskiyous
down Bear or Stewart's creek to the Rogue river, and keeping along the south side of
that stream to a point one and a half miles southwest of the present village of Grant's
Pass, where it crosses the river, and turning north, proceeded by a hilly and uneven
course northward to the Canyon, on the southern border of Douglas county, there
entering the Umpqua valley. Returning from Fort Hall the Applegate party acted
as guides for the first emigrants who passed over the route, their way taking them
through the country of the Modoc and the Piute tribes, who were very troublesome,
murdering one of the white men at Lost river and stealing some stock.

During the progress of the Cayuse war, which followed the massacre of Doctor
Whitman, near Walla Walla, in 1847, Governor Abernethy wished to send a message
to the commandant of the United States' forces in California, soliciting aid in prose-
cuting hostilities. Jesse Applegate was chosen as messenger, and provided with an
escort of sixteen men — Levi Scott, John Scott, William Scott, Walter ^lonteith,
Thomas Monteith, A. G. Robinson, William Gilliam, Joseph Waldo, James Campljell,
James Fields, John Minto, James Lemon, John Disc, Solomon Tethero and George
Hibbler. The party set out from La Creole (Rickreal) in Polk county, and arrived at
the Siskiyou mountains about the first of February, 1848. Here, instead of pa.ssing
directly across into California, they undertook to travel eastward for a distance, and
were lost in the snow. Half of the party turned back, taking all tlie horses, while
Jesse Applegate with eight others pushed on by the aid of snowshoes. They, too, luul
to succumb to the depth of the snow and the rigor of the sea.son, and turning noi-th-
ward they overtook the others at the South Umpqua river, and proceeded witii \\\vm
to the Willamette. No difiiculties were ex[)erienced on account of the Indians, nor
were the latter molested.

In 1848, 1841) and 18;30 tlu' Rogue river valley was increasingly tniviTsi'd. luiiinly
by parties of gold seekers on their wiiy to Californi;i nr returning to the Willnniette.

336 SOUTHERN OREGON

These men, iutent chiefly uj)ou the acquisition of gold, were not of a class to do more
than slightly note the beauties of nature as exemplified in the luxuriant fauna and
flora of the charming, yet wild and dangerous, region through which they had to pass.
Thus far not only were no settlements made in Jackson county, but no reason existed
for such settlements, excepting the obvious one of the country's fertility. It was too
isolated for the abode of an agricultural community, and possessed the disadvantage of
being occupied by hostile Indians, whereas the Willamette, whose farming industries
were the most extensive on the coast, was devoid of disaffected aborigines. The time
was not yet ripe for the advent of the race of pioneers, who were to change the scene
of primitive wildness into the abode of industrious humanity, and build upon
the haunts of wild beasts and wilder Indians the foundations of a peaceful and pros-
perous society.

In 1851 began the settlement of the county, or more properly speaking, it then
began to be looked upon as a jwssible home for settlers. In the spring and summer of
that year three houses or stations became occupied permanently by white men, these
being the three ferries on Rogue river, namely. Long's, Evans' and Perkins'. Other
than these there were no houses or cabins between the South Umpqua and Yreka; or,
in other words, Jackson county was uninhabited by whites, except for the few em-
ployes of the ferries and the transient travelers who might be upon the road, or rather
trail, leading from California to the Columbia. Curry county, the westernmost of the
tier of three, was likewise uninhabited, receiving its first white population on the
ninth of June of that year, when Port Orford was taken possession of

The beauty, healthfulness and fertility of the valley had not proved sufficient
incentives to induce the immigrants to pause here in their journey and occupy the
pleasant land, for causes which we have slightly touched upon, and it was reserved for
the tremendous attractive power of gold to cause the valley to become jjeopled, an effect
which was brought about very rapidly, as we shall see. In the spring of 1851 travel
became more than ever impeded by the depredations of the Indians, and organized
efforts became necessary in order to keep open the trail then becoming much used.
Murders and robberies were frequently reported, and Governor Gaines, ex-officio super-
intendent of Indian affairs for Oregon, made a treaty with the Indians in midsummer,
his action being preceded by a short but effective campaign by United States troops and
volunteers combined against the braves of Sam and Joe, wherein the natives were badly
beaten. The details of these op)erations having been set forth in the account of the
Indian wars, the reader is referred thereto for the details and effects of the campaign.
Directly following the close of hostilities Judge A. A. Skinner came to the valley in
pursuance of his duties as Indian agent, and took up his residence southeast of Table
Rock, on a donation claim supposed to have been the first taken in Jackson county, or
in the whole Rogue river valley, for that matter. His house was the first one built on
Bear creek and was a small log structure. With Judge Skinner resided the govern-
ment interpreter, Chesley Gray, who took a donation claim adjoining and built a house
upon it in order to comply with the law governing the holding of donation claims. He
. preferred to reside at the agent's, however. The Skinner claim is now the property of
John B. Wrisley, while Isaac Constant owns the Gray claim. Moses Hopwood came
from the Willamette with the oldest of his nine children and settled upon the well

4^ i^

ill |"i
I 111!

Douglas Country.

^G-ltrM.fionriAfifi>,0^-

JACKSON COUNTY. 337

kuown Hop wood farm on Bear creek, near the two just mentioned, filing his claims
thereto on Christmas, 1851. At about the same date Kennedy and Dean settled on
the Willow Springs farm. Several other settlers came in at nearly the same time, and
early in the year 1852 Judge Kice occupied the location next to Skinner's and brought
his wife and a small family, the lady probably being the second of her sex to locate
permanently in the valley. The Eice place has been occupied by the family ever
since, and is now owned by the widow. Mrs. Lawless possessed the distinction of being
the first white woman settler, coming some time in the early part of 1852. Directly
after his arrival Mr. Hopwood brought the wife and the remainder of his famih^ from
Portland, and set about farming on a small scale, being the pioneer of the farmers of
Rogue river valley. In December, 1851, Stone and Poyntz took up their land claims
at the crossing of Wagner creek and resided there for a short time, returning to their
ftunilies in the East in 1852. An old man named Lewis took a claim adjoining theirs,
but going to the Willamette valley for a stay of several mouths, his claim was "jumped"
in his absence and he failed to recover it. A little later than Poyntz, Stone and Lewis,
L. J. C. Duncan, now of Jacksonville, located a claim at Wagner creek, sometime in
December, 1851. Chris. Thompson also came before the beginning of 1852 and accord-
ingly ranks as one of the very earliest of the pioneers.

At the upper end of the valley the Mountain House claim was taken up and here
resided Barron, Russell and Gibbs. On the Tolman place were Patrick Dunn, Thomas
Smith and Frederick Alberding. The following white persons were residing in the
Rogue river valley on New Year's day, 1852 : Major Barron, John Gibbs, Russell,
Thomas Smith, Patrick Dunn, Frederick Alberding (R. H. Hargadine came to Ash-
land in January), Stone, Poyntz, Lewis, L. J. C.Duncan, (E.K.Anderson and brother
came to Wagner creek in January), Samuel Colver, Judge Skinner, Chesley Gray,
Sykes and two others residing at Skinner's ; Moses Hopwood and two sons, X. C. Dean,
Bills and son, Davis Evans and one or two others at Evans' ferry ; Perkins, and prob-
ably one assistant. Total, twenty-seven or twenty-eight persons, all males. At Per-
kins' ferry was a log house, supposed to have been the first one erected on Rogue river,
which was fortified to resist Indian attacks, but notwithstanding his fortress Perkins
was obliged to leave during the latter part of 1851, fearing the natives.

On the present Chavner place near Gold Hill, an old man named Bills luul located,
with his son. These men experienced great difficulty with the other whites, being
charged with having conspired with the Indians to murder all the settlers. It is not
very clear whether one or both of them became objects of suspicion, but it seems that
they had to leave the country. One account is to the effect that the young man was
detected in the conspiracy in his father's absence, and was arrested by the miners on
Big Bar; while others recount that the old man was the suspecteil party. Forty pairs
of l)lankets, some allege, was the price demanded for his surrender by Sam and Joe
with whose people the culprit had taken refuge, and this Judge Skinner paid.

In January, 1852, tlie placers on Jackson creek were discovered by Sykes, Clug-
gage, Poole and others, and an extensive immigration of miners began immediately on
the dissemination of the news. In ^March it was estimated that from 100 to 150 men
were working in the vicinity of Jacksonville, mainly on Rich gulch and the right
liranch of Jackson creek. James Skinnoi-, nejihew of the Judge, was mnong the

338 SOUTHERN OREGON.

lucky ones, and took out a decent fortune within a few weesk. Later in the season
" Old man Shively," working in the gulch which bears his name, accumvilated !|oO,-
000 and set out for home, guarding the box containing his wealth with a drawn
revolver. At Big Bar a party of eight or ten men had early worked with rockers,
and in the summer at the time of the Indian disturbances, wherein Lamerick and his
company distinguished themselves, there were at times some hundred or more workers
on the bar. Prospectors had begun at once to examine all the region, moving out
from the Jackson creek diggings as a center, and prospecting every gulch, streamlet
and hill side for many miles. The miners who in the preceding year had worked,
on Josephine and Canyon creeks, in what is now Josephine county, had mostly
deserted those diggings and betaken themselves to other scenes; but many of these
now returned to Jackson county and engaged in mining. At an early date gold-
bearing gravel was struck at the present Cameron place, on Applegate creek, and
shortly after Forest creek was invaded by a small army of miners, who worked with
excellent results amid its sands. The greater part of the mining was done with the
rocker, scarcity of water preventing the use of toms. Foot's creek became a noted
mining ground, hardly second to Forest creek. By the middle of the summer of 1852,
not less than a thousand miners had arrived in the valleys of Kogue river and its
tributaries, and prospected nearly every spot where gold was likely to be found. The
wave which had swept over California and laid bare its mineral treasures, was now
expending itself upon the far northern verge of the great auriferous belt, and its first
low wash had crept up the foothills of Southern Oregon, the forerunner of the mighty
human sea which was to follow.

Thus begun the active progress and development of Jackson county. With the open-
ing of the placers, and the influx of miners, there sprang up a demand for the neces-
saries of life, from whence trade took root and flourished, and merchants and packers
entered upon their occuj^ations. The chief seat of trade and activity was Jacksonville,
which place quickly assumed the appearance and reality of a flourishing mining center^
and was frequented by the workers from all the neighboring diggings. Provisions for
such a throng were, of course, difficult to procure, being of distant production and con-
sequent high price. Long trains of animals, mostly mules, performed the important
and arduous service of bringing, from the Willamette valley and from Scottsburg, the
necessaries of life most in demand, for it was not until several years later that the wagon
roads were constructed, which, in their turn, connected the valley with the outer world.
The principal highways, or, rather, trails, leading from Jacksonville were the road over
the Siskiyous and the road northward to the Umpqua, via the Canyon. A year or two
later, the Crescent City road was projected and laid out, whereby that port became a
successful rival of Scottsburg — in earlier years a place of much real and enormous spec-
ulative importance. Its fortunes began to sink by the year 1853, and within a few
years it had ceased to be an important factor in the commerce of the Rogue river valley.
Crescent City, on the contrary, grew and flourished at the expense of its northern
rival, and shortly absorbed the trade which formerly centered at the mouth of the
Umpqua. In 1851, the general government, through the military officers on the
Pacific coast, resolved upon a road for military purposes from Scottsburg to Camp
Stewart, on Bear creek, and in October, 1851, Major Alvord completed a survey of

JACKSON COUNTY. 3:39

that portion of the road lying south of Myrtle ereek, in Douglas county, choosing
the Canyon route in 2)reference to several others lying to the eastward. The road, for
the greater part of its course, coincided with the old "Oregon trail." Congress appro-
priated money for its construction, amounting in the aggregate to $120,000, and this
money, or rather a portion of it, was exi)ended under the direction of Colonel Hooker,
afterwards called "Fighting Joe."

In the spring of 1852, several settlers began to experiment on the productive
(pialities of their lands, j^utting in whatever crops their very limited resources would
iidmit. The grain and vegetables used for seed were brought from the Willamette
valley and planted in soil whose capabilities were in no degree understood. The result
of the first season's work was discouraging, indeed, to the new-comers, for the unusual
drought of that year prevented the plants from coming to maturity. Some of the set-
tlers planted several acres of potatoes, with the expectation of realizing well upon
them, but scarcely sufficient tubers were procured from their fields to keep their fami-
lies from starving. Breadstuffs rose to an enormous value; late in the year, flour attain-
ing a maximum price of a dollar and a quarter per pound. In the previous autumn it
had ranged from twenty to thirty cents, with other articles in proportion. A great
many land claims were taken up in the year 1852, and nearly all the bottom lands of
Bear creek valley were claimed, mostly by i)eople from the Willamette. If there is
any distinction to be made in the origin of the mining and farming population, it lies
in the fact that the farmers were mostly Oregonians, while the greater part of the miners
were from the California placers. But many embraced both occupations, pursuing the
one when the weather served for mining, and returning to their donation claims when
water gave out. For, as yet, only the shallowest placers were worked, and very little
skill was necessary in order to successfully extract the gold, nor was much apparatus
required. Thus a large number of settler had gathered and found occupation in the
vicinity of Bear creek and its tributaries, the enterprising pioneer farmer had entered
upon his pursuits, the mines were in an extremely productive condition, though, as yet,
only the simplest and most laborious processes were in use, and the new town of Jack-
sonville was gaining rapidly and proving its advantageous location for trade and activ-
ity. The most valuable sites for farms were occupied that year by individuals, many
of whom still live to reap the result of their timely and sensible action. Thus, within
the space of one year, this rich and fertile country had become populated and advanced
far u})on the highway of rapid and thorough development. Even at that early day
her resources bad become recognized; her mines of gold were being prospected and
woiked as rapidly as the nature of things would admit; her forests of fir and pine were
being drawn upon for lumber to serve the multifarious uses of the farmer, the miner
and the inhabitant of towns. Precise accoujits of the immigration of 1852 are not
at hand, but the reader will remember that it was in this year that the tide of lumian-
ity, previously setting for the Willamette valley and the mines of California, was, in
some measure, diverted to the Rogue river valley, whereby many settlers were added
to those who came from other portions of the Pacific slope. In this connection, the
reader will also recall the Tule lake massacre by Modocs and the subsequent exploits of
Wright and Ross and their brave followers, as described in previous pages of this book.
In the following vear, I5'.t waoons came to Rogue river valley, ria the southern route.

3W • SOUTHERN OREGON.

from the east, accompanied by 400 men, 120 women and 170 children. These pioneers
brought 2600 cattle, 1300 sheep, 140 loose horses and forty mules, with agricultural
and household implements suited for use in the new country, where they set about
making their homes.

CHAPTER ALL

GENERAL PROGRESSION.

Organization of the County- Precincts- Interruptions of Growth -Mills-The Wheat Crop -Jackson the Leading-
County — Division of the County — Present Boundaries— Mineral Resources Vast but Unexplored.

The county of Jackson was organized by an act of the legislature passed January
12, 1852, creating and defining the limits of the county. Its boundaries are as follows:
Beginning at the southwest corner of Umpqua county; thence east to the northwest
corner of Douglas county; thence southerly along the western boundary line of Douglas
to the southwest corner of that county; thence east along the southerly boundary of
Douglas to the southeast corner thereof; thence northeast to the eastern extremity of
the Rogue river valley; thence south to the boundary of California and Oregon; thence
west to the Pacific coast; thence north to the point of beginning. Thus the county
originally embraced a very extensive area, from which, in subsequent years, the counties
of Josephine, Curry and Coos have been carved, while still a good-sized principality
remains under the original name. Previous to the formation of the county, the whole
region south of the Willamette had been nominally attached to one or the other of the
northern counties, the legislature by enactment dated December 28, 1847, giving the
name of Linn county to "all of Oregon south of Marion county and east of Benton."

Jackson county's public affairs were first managed by a board of appointed offi-
cers, of whom James Cluggage, N. C. Dean and Abel George wf~;re county commis-
sioners; Dr. G. E. Alexander, clerk; E. H. Blanchard, elisor, (o serve until the election
of a sheriff; Thomas McF. Patton, prosecuting attorney; and Richard Dugan,
treasurer. These officers dated the beginning of their official life in the spring of
1853, the first meeting of the board of commissioners taking place March seventh of
that year. One of the first acts of the board was the establishment of precincts.
These were at Emery & Company's sawmill, Ashland; at the house of William Law-
less, at the Dardanelles; at Benjamin Halstead's house, in Perkinsville (Perkins'
ferry); at Harkness & Twogodd's house, on Grave creek; at Hardy Eliff's house, on
Cow creek; at Dr. Edward Shell's, on Aj^plegate creek; at Miller & Company's house,
on Canyon creek (Illinois river) ; at J. C. Anderson & Company's place, on Althouse
creek; at the Robinson House, in Jacksonville; and at Gamble ct Tichenor's, in Port

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JACKSON COUNTY. ui

Orford. Each of tlieje precincts was empowered to elect one constable and one jnstico
oftlie peace, excepting Jacksonville and Althouse, which were entitled to two of" each.
It was while the pioneer miners and farmers were thus industriously engaged in
laying broad and deep the foundations of a permanent civilization that hostilities with
the Indians again began. In August, 1853, a number of residents of Bear creek
valley fell victims to savage ferocity and vindictiveness. Instantly the flames of war
broke forth. Companies of volunteer soldiery, armed with rifles, shot-guns, revolvers,
or whatever weapon at command, were^ organized, and arrangements were made for
vigorously prosecuting hostilities against the natives, and avenging the blood already
spilt. Within five days a force of men were in the field sufficient to check the enemy
and protect the helpless from the incursions of the cruel marauders. The details of
the series of encounters known as the war of 1853, have elsewhere been fully treated,
and so will be merely referred to upon occasion. Mining operations ancl general
improvements Avere almost entirely brought to a standstill during these difficulties, but
revived immediately upon the conclusion of peace, and Cjuickly assumed a more perma-
nent character than at any previous time. At that epoch a very large proportion of
the newly arrived immigrants were farmers by occupation and choice, and were of a
class peculiarly adapted to satisfy the needs of a country like this, being young, vigor-
ous and inured to hardship and and active labor. These established themselves u|)on
land claims on Bear creek or other tributaries of Rogue river, affecting, mostly, the
level bottom lands as more productive and easily cultivated than the hill lands.

The town of Jacksonville, the most flourishing locality in Oregon and a most
important trade center, quickly regained the commerce which had been hers before the
war, and supplied all the neighboring camps with the necessaries of life. Pack-trains
laden with the articles indispensable to miner and settler, were arriving and departing
daily. The rich resources of the valley lands were being drawn upon to furnish
breadstuff's, to the exclusion of the products of the Willamette valley ; trains of
wagons had begun to traverse the new routes, and w^ere engaged in freighting goods ;
and everything appeared to warrant a continuance of these flush times. By 1854 two
flouring mills uj^on Bear creek were built, the one by the Thomas Brothers, the other
by Hellman, Emery and Morris, of Ashland. The former was the Eagle mills,
now owned by the Farnham heirs ; the other the Ashland mills, at present owned and
conducted by Jacob Wagner. Considerable wheat had been raised in 1853 — au
excei>tionally favorable season — and iu the following year the farmers prepared to
enter upon its culture to a great extent. The value of the bottom lands for tlie
crop had now become known, and its extreme profitableness was recognized. Wheat
raising then became and has ever since maintained its standing as the ])rincipal farm
crop, exceeding any other, and even all others combined, in extent. The conditions
surrounding the agriculture of this region have always been [icculiar. .V first-rate
home market has always existed, nearly sufficient at all times to t-onsunu' tiie most
plentiful crops, and this has been a cash market also, wherein money could be imme-
diately realized by the producer of grain, vegetables and meats. The very large con-
sumption of flour, the miner's chief article of subsistence, created the demand for
wheat in preference to other food products, and the continuance of that demand main-
tained the conditions which surrounded agriculture at the beginning. Without com-

342 SOUTHERN OREGON.

petition from abroad, and with almost positive certainty of at least a tolerable crop,
the industrious and provident farmers became, in the course of time, the most pros-
perous and wealthy of their class on the Pacific slope, and the Rogue river valley,
partaking of their good fortune, advanced with rapid strides toward prosperity and
plenty.

The new facilities for making flour induced many more to enter upon wheat
growing, and it was remarked that the quantity of that grain in the Rogue river
valley in the fall of 1854 was greater in proportion to the population than elsewhere
in Oregon. The wheat crop of 1855 was an extremely abundant one, the general
average being over thirty bushels per acre, while many fields produced over forty. The
two mills on Bear creek being incapable of turning the immense crop into flour, another
and much larger mill was erected at Phoenix, by S. M. Wait, at great expense.
Wheat flour of an excellent quality sold as low as four cents per pound, wholesale, a
trivial price in comjjarison with its cost three years before. Lumber, also, was held at
moderate figures, being produced in considerable quantities by various small saw mills.
A. V. Gillette had erected the first of these in 1852, and William Hughes in the fall
of the following year put up a small water power mill to cut lumber for Fort Lane,
then in process of erection. Hughes received $125 per thousand feet for his lumber.
In 1854 Milton Lindley constructed his mill near Phoenix, a water driven concern.

Jackson county in the fall of 1855 had attained the foremost place in the list of
Oregon's counties," being the most poj)ulous and wealthy of all. At no time in its
history had affairs borne a more encouraging appearance, aside from the coming Indian
troubles, or had brighter or more cheering anticipations filled the minds of its inhabi-
tants. When hostilities finally closed in the spring of the next year, affairs revived
from the stagnation produced by the appearance of war, and business quickly assumed
more than its usual activity, as if to atone for the season of enforced idleness. New
firms were established at various points, especially at Jacksonville ; mechanics were in
demand at high wages and steady employment ; and the thousand and one ways in
which flush times manifest their existence, became visible. The gravel mines were
now being worked extensively and by more improved means than during the earliest
years. The sluice was in use wherever a sufficient supply of water could be procured,
and ground sluicing also was much depended on. The out-put of gold had reached
its maximum. The total amount could not have been less than three millions annually,
if we count the whole extent of the present Jackson county and the territory to the
west, wherein were included the very important mines of Sailor Diggings, Althouse,
the Ocean Beach diggings, and many other productive sources. Josej)hine county
was set off" from Jackson by act of the legislature dated January 22, 1856, since which
time it has not been customary to include her yield of gold with that of the present
county. This loss of territory restricted Jackson county's boundaries somewhat, and
subsequently they have continued thus : Commencing at the northwest corner of
township 33 south, range 5 west, the line follows Cow creek eastward to the divide
between Rogue river and Elk creek; thence northeast to the source of Rogue ri ver ;
thence south along the east line of range 4 east, to the California line ; thence west to
the intersection of the west line of range 4 west , thence north to township 36 ; thence

JACKSON COUNTY. 343

west to the southwest corner of thfit township; tlience nortli aloiio the west line of
range 5 to the place of beginning.

In the earlier years of the gold excitement, and before the county began to be
surveyed by land surveyors, the southern boundary of Oregon, like all arbitrary
divisions of the surface of the great northwest, was, necessarily, not determined. In
the year 1851 the legislature of Oregon, we may instance, passed an act appropriating
funds to enable the surveyor-general to ascertain "if Shasta Butte City [since called
Yreka] were in Oregon or not." Such was the condition of ignorance of topography
which necessarily pervaded the public mind at the time, and still, but to a lesser
extent, pervades it. If the country was almost a terra incognita at the time as regards
its topography, still more so was it true of the geology of the land. And most unfor-
tunately that condition of geological ignorance remains almost unabated to the present.
It would be easy to show that Southern Oregon, particularly Jackson county, is unex-
celled in its boundless resources for the study of geology, and its associated branch
paleontology, but no one has appeared as yet to lead the way to even the most meager
application of them to the natural history of the region. It is probable, however, that
in the near future we may look for such a thorough examination of the rock forma-
tions of the country as will demonstrate fully its unexampled resources, both in a
scientific and utilitarian point of view. The importance of a geological survey wa.s
early recognized. Some naturalists, employed by the United States in the early
"fifties" made a sort of random inspection of certain districts on the Pacific coast, and
reported large discoveries of coal, quartz and other valuable minerals, whereby the
Oregon legislature was induced to resolve, on January 20, 1855, that " Wliereas, a
general geological reconnoissance has been made by United States geologists foi- the
territories of Oregon and Washington, showing the existence of extensive beds of coal,
limestone and other minerals; Resolved, that our delegate in congress be instructed to
procure a sufficient appropriation to make a survey in detail of the coal fields and gold
region of Oregon." The subject proceeded no farther, and Oregon, while owing noth-
ing to the general government for a correct knowledge of her resources, owes as little
to individual skill and enterprise. The great stores of useful minerals which certainly
exist in Southern Oregon are sufiered to lie dormant, awaiting the touch of the mighty
magicians of the future, whose knowledge, skill and enterprise shall exceed ours as we
exceed our ignorant ancestors.

CHAPTER XLII

SOCIAL AND OTHER TOPICS.

Mining Regions Most Fruitful in History— Effects of the Decreased Gold Production— Educational— Agricultural
Society— The Telegraph— Chinese in the Mines— Eraser River— Other Rushes— The Ledford Massacre-
Romance of Indian George and Mary.

From the settlement of the Indian difficulties until the present time, the history
of Jackson county presents the diversified, yet unbroken, record of a mining and
agricultural country, and neither branch has been subject to fluctuations sufficiently
noticeable to be particularly alluded to. The stirring scenes of earlier years have
been rightly judged to contain all history of general interest, and in comparison
with the events of 1851-6, the remainder of the chronicles of this region are singu-
larly bare and uninteresting. The sharpest discernment sees little in the later
years but the usual happenings of a settled and somewhat progressive community
who have achieved exemj)tion from savage foes, and from want and scarcity of
subsistence. Political wrangles, sjioradic mining excitements of uncertain origin,
the success or failure of crops, the details of an occasional homicide, the opening
of communication with this or that sea-port, and matters of similar tenure had taken
the place of the exciting episodes attending the discovery of gold, the settlement of the
country, and the subjugation of the savages. Nevertheless, the country was actively
progressing. Matters had assumed a tamer aspect, as was to be expected, but this por-
tion of Oregon was keeping equal pace with the Pacific coast in general, and in all
essentials of civilization and refinement was far in advance of the remainder of Oregon.
The lack of outward communication was, in most ways, felt as an evil; yet, it would be
easy to point out wherein it was a real good. This is especially true of the earlier
years, when a large yield of gold created an ample market for farm products. But, in
later years, the number of miners decreasing and that of farmers increasing, the sup-
ply increased above demand, and, for the first time. Rogue river valley had farm pro-
ducts for export, but had no means of exporting them, excepting the comparatively
small quantities demanded by the neighboring mining camps of Southern Oregon and
Northern California, and the grazers of the Klamath country. Farming, in conse-
quence, failed to keep up its former rate of growth, but can hardly be said to have
declined, although its profits most certainly did. The contracted agricultural
region of the Eogue river country continued to furnish the requisite supply of edibles,
the imports from abroad being still confined to such articles of merchandise as are
always in demand, but never can be furnished by a new country. Thus it continued to
be, in most respects, self-sustaining, and to a greater degree than any other mining
town now in recollection. In subsequent years, as wheat-growing absorbed less and
less the united powers of the farmers, other products came in vogue, most of them being

JACKSON COUNTY. 345

introduced with a view to supplying outside demand. Wool, bacon and beef lieeanie
staples, and proved the adaptability of the climate and soil to their production. Graz-
ing became more and more important as a pursuit, and capital looked more and more
closely for opportunities for investment in flocks and herds. The grassy plains beyond
the Cascades began to be populated with domestic animals, and a profitable and import-
ant industry came to be recognized.

Social advancement kept even pace with material progress. Many schools,
churches and societies date their foundation from the active years succeeding the Indian
wars. The tone of public sentiment in Jackson county, if we may judge from circum-
stances, always favored the education of youth, and the excellent effects thus far pro-
duced are to be ascribed to the intelligent foresight of many of the early pioneers. And
under a better school system than the execrable and slip-shod one in vogue in Oregon,
still greater results might easily have been attained. The county became tolerably well
]irovided with common schools, while an institution of learning, to be styled the
Western University, was projected by enthusiastic citizens of Jacksonville, in the years
just preceding the rebellion. This concern, advertised for a while in the Sentinel, was
to be a full-fledged college, and to secure its existence a site was donated it, being the
property known as Dr. Overbeck's grove. But the projectors' intentions came to
naught, and Southern Oregon is yet without a university.

In 1859 the Sentinel recommended the establishment of an agricultural society, as
a measure of importance to the farmers, who would become united in action upon mat-
ters affecting their mutual interests. The society would also result in disseminating
agricultural information and so be of further use. On February 8, 1860, the first
meeting of the future association was held, John E. Ross being chairman, and organiza-
tion was effected. The work of the society has been of use to the country at large, and
its annual exhibitions have been very creditable. It is recollected that at the first of
these, held where the court house stands in Jacksonville, the various agricultural, horti-
cultural and manufacturing industries of Jackson county were well represented. Speci-
mens of the "Gloria Mundi " variety of apples, the first raised in the valley, were on
exhibition, grown upon the Skinner place on Bear creek, and these were purchased by
Thomas Chavner, flushed with the distinction of owning in the treasures of Gold Hill,
at the rate of two dollars and a half apiece. No doubt they were worth the money to
the fruit-hungry pioneers.

News from the outside world, at first so slow to penetrate to the camps of Southern
Oregon, the most isolated of all the inhabited part of the coast, coming at first l)y the
chance sources of occasional travelers and packers, afterwards brought by mail more or
less regularly, and on the establishment of newspapers collected and disseminated with
somewhat of care, for many years was uncertain and precarious. When San Francisco
and all California had to depend on the monthly steamers, and, later on, the Pony
express, the great events of the world's happenings could only reach to this region in a
most fortuitous and often roundabout way. But with the construction of the overland
telegraph the improvement was felt even on Rogue river, and when the wires reached
Yreka in October, 1858, we find the Sentinel congratulating itself that it was within

sixty-five miles of a telegraph office and hoped that Jacksonville would s i be

included in the electric circuit. Six vears later tlie wish was gnitincd in the laiilding

346 SOUTHERN OREGON.

of the through telegraph line, and since then Jackson county has felt herself as more
nearly a part of the outside world.

If it be j)ermissible to include under the head of social movements anything per-
taining to the " Mongolians," we may here speak of the Chinese invasion of the mines.
These jjeculiar jDeople came early to Jackson county and mostly began work upon
claims jireviously abandoned by whites — their universal custom — and made no effort to
discover new claims, being far from proficient as prospectors. Their course here was
exactly the same as in the better known mining districts of California. That is to say ;
they minded their own business (an amiable and valuable trait, for which the Chinese
are to be commended above all peoples) — worked early and late — gathered little "stakes"
by the slow process of accretion of " colors " — made no rich strikes ; or if they made
any they never mentioned it — let politics, whisky, fighting and all other Caucasian
forms of iniquity severely alone — indulged themselves only in "tan" and other inscrut-
able Celestial modes of abasement — in a word lived the life of all poverty-stricken
Chinamen far from home and friends. As in California they came at first silently,
labored quietly, and hardly was their presence known until the stolid yellow face of
" John " peered from every bank and every worn-out placer from. Jacksonville to
Althouse and from the South Umpqua to Sailor Diggings. When the whites awoke
to their numbers, many of them had accumulated gold and departed for the Flowery
Kingdom, but their places were filled by greater numbers as thrifty, careful and accu-
mulating as themselves. The Chinese question then, as now, was a difficult one to
deal with. AVhy it required any interference at all is not clear; but possible danger
might have been apprehended from a class of beings whose habits, manners, traditions
and general behavior is so entirely different from what is American and therefore
proper. Besides, these Chinese were digging American gold and taking it to China,
which was indistinctly but firmly regarded to be wrong. These people could not be
fouglit, for they were unarmed and interposed no resistance. By an apparently happy
stroke of genius the California policy of taxing them was introduced across the border
and a tribute of two dollars per month was levied upon all Chinese and Kanakas, under
the title of Foreign Miners' tax. Store-keepers of those nationalities were mulcted in
fifty dollars per month. This act, passed in January, 1859, took effect at a time when
the influx of heathen was greatest. Its effect was to somewhat diminish their apparent
numbers, but the wily strangers found ample means to evade it, and in respect to the
Chinese, have ever since maintained a hold upon the placers and in some instances
have ventured upon hydraulic mining, with good results.

In April, 1856, occurred the Ledford massacre, the last of the tragedies caused by
Indians. It occurred at Rancheria Prairie, at the head of Big Butte creek, and con-
sisted in the murder of five white men by certain Indians of the Klamath tribe, who
were residing at that place. Eli Ledford and J. Brown, of Jacksonville, and S. F.
Conger, W. S. Probst and James Crow, of Butte creek, set out to cross the Cascades
eastward to the Klamath lake country. They were mounted and provided with arms,
and proceeded up Big Butte on a trail that had not been traversed, thus far, during the
season. They were not subsequently seen alive by any white men, and their fate was
only discovered through the merest chance. It appeared that on the fourth of JMay
following, Indian Agent Abbott, with a small party set out from Jacksonville for his

JACKSON COUNTY. 347

station among the Klamatlis, and followed the trail of the other party up to a point in
the mountains where the unmelted snow prevented further progress, and from whence
Ledford and his party had turned back. Following the previous party to the Indian
rancheria, Abbott found it deserted, the houses burned, and indications that rendered
it probable that the five men had been murdered. Four of their horses were found
dead, having been taken to a thicket, tied to a tree, and then shot. Abbott and his
men returned to Jacksonville, and told their suspicions; a company of thirty citizens,
with John Hillman and H. Klippel as leaders, set out for the spot, and after consider-
able search found the bodies of Ledford's four companions buried, their throats cut, and
•many brutal wounds and bruises upon them, by the character of which it was judged
that they were killed as they slept. Ledford's body was afterwards found at some
distance away. The murderers were sought for far and wide, but without success. It
is thought that they went into hiding in the prairies above Flounce Kock, until the
melting of the snow allowed of their escape to their own country. The pursuit had
lasted a month, when the searchers disbanded and left for their homes. In after years
suspicion fastened upon several prominent Klamatlis, among them a war chief,
>Skookum John, who was killed at Fort Klamath, in November, 1863, by Captain
Kelly and Sergeant Underwood, while trying to arrest him. Two others, who were
supposed to have had something to do with the massacre, met with violent deaths, and
finally the last of the suspected braves was wiped out of existence at Camp Baker, near
Phoenix, at the same date as that of Chief John's death. The event of the hanging of
this Indian, Tyee George, on the nineteenth of November, 1863, is well remembered
in Jackson county, and with its attendant circumstances has there become one of the
principal romances of the time. Some Klamatlis sought and obtained from their
agent, Rogers, nicknamed "Sugar Foot," permission to reside on the west side of the
Cascades. They came in small numbers, their chief men being George and Jack, and
made themselves at home, roaming at wall over the land and somewhat disturbing the
settlers. They were said to have threatened individuals' lives, shot cattle, thrown down
fences, and committed divers other misdemeanors. In consequence of these charges,
George, who was indiscreet enough to come to town, was arrested in Jacksonville, and
immediately delivered over to Charles Drew, commanding the volunteers at Camp
Jjaker. Here his doom was speedily met: for by an unexampled stretch of arbitrary
authority, the man in command ordered the Indian's execution at once, and he was
hanged in the presence of the soldiery, without the least delay. Jack escaped death,
and with the most of his people hastened to safer fields, leaving George's mother, Old
Mary, to enact her part in this little but sorrowful drama, by burying her son where
he now lies, by the side of her own humble ivirlc-i-up, and kindling upon his grave
the sacred fire that in the beautiful Indian superstition is supposed to guide the
wandering soul to the islands of the blessed. Poor old Mary is still known in Jack-
sonville where her woes and maternal devotion have raised up sympathizing friends;
and poetry has lent its aid to make meuKn-able an e[)isode resembling that of Ili/.pah
and her sons, described in the scriptures.

CHAPTER XLII.

OTHER TOPICS OF INTEREST.

Military Organizations in Jackson County— The Baker Guards— The Jackson Rangers— Expedition of Cap-
tain Applegate— The Modoc War— Statistics of Population and Production— The Pioneer Society.

During the war of the rebellion the people of Jackson county entered into the
spirit of the occasion witli characteristic energy and activity. Though far removed
from the seat of war it aroused the feelings of every one to the greatest intensity. The
union party testified their political views by donating liberally to the sanitary commis-
sion, and, in individual cases, by enlisting in the volunteer service. The general gov-
ernment made arrangements for the formation of several regiments of troops to garrison
the various military posts in this state and to repress Indian forays. The privates
received thirteen dollars per month " and found," and in case that they provided their
own horses and equipments (they were cavalry), they got twelve dollars per month in
addition, besides a bounty of $100. Southern Oregon's quota amounted to four com-
panies. R. F. Maury, now of Bear creek valley, was invested with the oiEce of lieu-
tenant-colonel, and proceeded to open a recruiting station at Jacksonville, in the fall
of 1861. The first company raised was the Baker Guards, named in honor of Senator
Baker, of Oregon. This body of men numbered about eighty, and were stationed at
Camp Baker, near Phoenix. Their muster-roll follows :

Captain, Thomas S. Harris ; First Lieutenant, Jesse Robinson ; Second Lieu-
tenant, J. W. Hopkins ; Sergeants, R. J. Moore, William Irving, John Hurley, D. H.
Taylor, James C. Mager, Silas Pepoon, Jr. ; Corporals, J. J. Elliott, Robert Irvin,
Robert Bruce, Charles Dufferd, Frank Wyman, D. T. Cole. T. M. M. Wood, Joseph
Little ; Buglers, Warren Vernoy, Myron H. Field ; Privates, George E. Butler, Wil-
liam Bremer, T. J. Bradford, John R. Bond, Riley R. Barnes, C. C. Bailey, James
Cassida, Reece Clark, S. H. Collins, D. B. Collins, Peter McDonald, C. J. Kenney,
George W. Clapp, W. T. Lever, John B. Rains, Elihu Morgan, Marion Taylor, C.
Dirshee, John McLaughlin, Jackson Million, John E. Hill, Milton Prickett, Orson P.
Matthews, Augustus Laronburg, James A. Reid, Luke Standley, John Robinson,
William A. Tull, J. E. Vail, J. W. Kimball, Simeon Peabody, Aden C. Spencer, James
Longmire, G. W. Ashley, Gaylord Penny, J. Vanguilder, J. M. Hoxie, Warren
Wood, Daniel McGee, Joseph B. Pepoon, J. H. Heitman, Charles Thompson, Charles
H. Sumner, Ferdinand Wachter, George Gutting, Samuel Southerland, Chauncey P.
Martin, George W. Dalton, J. H. Dalton, O. Dodge, Antonio Sandoval, William Mot-
ley, Mahlon R. Gaskell, Eli T. Boon, William A. Jones, J. B. Perow, John Xapper,
John L. Sperry, Daniel Laughery, James Hickey, John Linnley, William R. Weddle,
R. A. Gray, H. L. Fergusson, J. Hammill.

JACKSON COUNTY. 349

The above were mainlj- residents of Jackson county, as were also the Jackson
Eangers, another mounted company belonging to the same regiment. The Rano-ers
were commanded by Captain Sewall Truax, but their muster-roll not being preserved,
it is impossible to present a list of the members, excepting Stephen Watson, John
Brown, R. H. Casteel, Joseph Durpy, William Eand, Charles Truax, E. 8. Powers,
N. Fortney, William Pittinger, Theodore Roe, George P. Ledford, J. B. Robinson,
Adrian Nappy and Henry INIyer, all of whom were non-commissioned officers. The
Rangers did service on the upper Columbia and Snake rivers until their discharoe.

Lindsay Applegate, fearing for the safety of the immigrants of 1851, who were
en route across the plains, set himself to work in August of that year, and organized a
company of forty-two persons, armed, mounted and equipped, and set out with them
toward the eastward, along the old emigrant trail, and did good service in protectiuo-
the new-comers from the ferocity of the Indians. The expedition resembled those of
the early years of 1862-3-4, led by Ross, Miller and Walker successively, and per-
formed similar duties, penetrating even farther to the eastward than had those adven-
turous leaders. The Applegate company marched 400 miles east of the Cascades. Its
members were L. Applegate, John Robinson, Warren Yernay, William Steward,
Lewis Hiatt, F. F. Fulton, J. W. Mills, Thomas Williams, J. C. Raper,. J. J. Carter'
Charles Sumner, David Laugherty, J. M. Anderson, G. H. Brown, Peter Smith, Mike
Murphy, J. P. Woodson, J. H. Blake, W. F. Sanger, J. D. Applegate, X. L. Lee,
G. W. Gaskill, William West, Samuel Richey, W. W. Shedd, Wallace Baldwin, w'.

D. Pittenger, J. L. McCoy, Giles Wells, Jr., AV. P. Harris, John L. Sperry, J. P.'
Chandler, Joseph Wells, Daniel Chapman, C. F. Blake, Robert Tenbrook, W. H.
Jacquett, D. F. Cole, A. J. Walls, Isaac McCay, R. Simpkins, Ben Johnson.

In the Modoc war of 1872-3, the citizens of Jackson county took a verv promi-
nent part. General Ross and Captain Kelley led a company of volunteers from Jack-
sonville, who performed bravely, fighting in the lava-beds by the side of the regulars
against Captain Jack's braves. The details of the war do not belong in a history of
Jackson county, as the hostile occurrences took place without its bounds ; but the names
of the Jackson county volunteers who served during the war are appended. Brigadier-
General Ross was in chief command, with a staff composed of Majors Owen, Bell and
Adair, and Captains Neil and Foudray. Captain Kelley's company was mustered in
on December 2, 1872, and discharged between January 7 and February 12, of the
following year. The muster-roll is as follows :

Cajitaiu, Harrison R. Kelley; First Lieutenant, J. W. Berry; Second Lieutenant,

E. R. Reames ; Sergeants, C. D. Wood, J. H. Snyder, J. W. Scrauton, W. H. Roberts,
Jasper Schockley ; Privates, A. M. Ackers, W. H. Ackers, William Adams, A. J.
Adams, W. C. Borden, J. Baker, James Butler, J. S. Ball, A. B. Cardwell, Isaac Cox,
D. E. Crawley, G. H. Crooks, W. D. Childers, Wesley Cole, James Downey, T. J.
Farris, Thomas Gaston, John Gaston, F. Grobe, R. Hinkle, George W. Hanierick, J,
Heckethorn, J. T. Hunt, T. J. Howard, J. N. Harper, R. Hagan, J. E. Ish, F. W.
Johnson, Walter Jones, G. W.Jones, Isaac Lewis, J. Lausignant, Alfred Law, J. Linn,
James Miller, E. A. ]\Iiller, Gustave Marks, M. D. Murphy, Christopher Mays, Josejih
McKee, Simon McKee, J. E. Newcombe, C. Nanny, A. P. Owen, B. F. Oatman, J. R.
Powell L. Robinson, William Rcxford. O. :\IcC. Sclnvatka, J. W. Sava-e. Elijah

350 SOUTHERN OREGON

Smith, Thomas Tucker, Walter M. Ware, A. J. Wright, ^V^illiam Williams, Thomas
Willis.

We find as we proceed with the history of Jackson county that a noticeable change
takes place in the character of our narrative. We miss the stirring tales, the warlike
incidents and the record of mining discoveries and excitements. Our story is becoming
common-place. There is less and less of incident to narrate as we approach the present
times. The country is becoming more populous, but is losing its character of stirring
adventure. The shallower mines are being exhausted and abandoned ; hydraulic
apparatus is taking the place of hundreds of toilers in deeper gravel beds; other regions
are calling away the more active part of the mining population ; and the pursuit of
mining, in former years overshadowing every other, sinks to a secondary position ;
while agriculture, at first carried on but to supply the miners with the necessaries of
life, becomes paramount and is destined to so remain. These causes worked gradually;
and even now the small amount of mining carried on has retained so many of the tra-
ditions and influences which formerly clustered about it that it is spoken of with more
of consideration than its importance deserves. Formerly, as we said, there were three
separate and distinct sorts of subjects which gave interest to the history of this valley —
the Indian wars, mining and agriculture. Of all regions the history of agricultural
countries is driest in detail, while no population furnishes so much of history as a min-
ing one. Hence in the transformation of Jackson county from a mining locality into
a region of farms and farmers only, we feel the gradual extinction of interest in our
story. Still, however, we may draw a valued lesson from the art of husbandry. Agri-
culture abounds in statistics ; and we can most readily set forth the progress and stand-
ing of Jackson county by a reference to and j^resentation of such official figures and
calculations as are at our command.

By referring to the assessor's rolls for 18(32, we find the assessed value of taxable
property to have been $1,517,988; polls, 1,026; the production of wheat, 60,000
bushels; barley, 6,750, and oats, 55,000. There were 6,650 horned cattle, 1,600 horses,
1,328 sheep, and 5,000 hogs. In 1865, we find these figures slightly changed, the
number of polls being reduced to 994. The poj^lation was then 2,995 ; of whom
1,791 were, males, and 1,204 females. The valuation of real and personal property was
given as |1, 305,583. The excess of males over females, common in all new countries,
was being gradually eliminated, and the two sexes were being equalized in point of
numbers. This process went on coincident with the growth of population, and while
the number of grown-up men is no larger to-day than in the earlier years, that of
women and children has steadily increased. The number of qualified voters has for
more than twenty -five years remained at about 1,000, while the total population has
trebled. . We find that in 1881 the polls numbered 1,050; the gross value of property
was 12,461,362; taxable property, $1,633,851. There were 229,678 acres of land in
private ownership, of which 113,000 acres were improved. The cattle numbered 9,036;
the sheep, 31,332; hogs, 9,525; horses and mules, 4,841. The roll for 1882 shows a
total valuation of $2,464,832 for all classes of property in the county, these figures
being supposed to represent only one-half, or, at most, two thirds, of the real value.
This sum was divided as follows: Value of improved lands, $658,985; unimproved
lands, $144,531; town lots, $62,982; improvements, $264,500; merchandise and imple-

JACKSON COUNTY. 351

ments, $396,435; money, notes and accounts, |5i)4,277; household furniture, etc.,
$68,735; horses and mules, 1149,005; cattle, $72,335; sheep, $31,361; swine, $21,677.
The assessment roll for 1883 shows the following facts and figures: Acres of land,
249,399; value, $1,117,102. Average value of improved land, $8.25 per acre; unim-
proved, $1.50. Value of town lots, $62,254; improvements, $270,644; mer-
chandise, implements, etc., $384,098; money, notes, accounts, etc., $650,036;
furniture, jewelry, etc., $73,818. Number of horses and mules, 4,260, valued at
$160,269; cattle, 7,848, valued at $122,295; sheep, 31,501, valued at $42,827; swine,
13,235, valued at $33,027. Gross value of property, $2,916,786, indebtedness, $683,-
316, exemptions, $230,270. Total taxable property, $2,053,200. Number of polls,
1,025. The population of the county, given by the census of 1880 as 8,11(3, has prob-
ably advanced at least 1,000 persons above that estimate, through the influence of the
railroad.

A few years before his decease, the lamented James Sutton, speaking editorially in
his paper, the Tiding^;, gave utterance to the wish that the fiist-disappearing recollec-
tions of the pioneers of Southern Oregon might by some means be preserved from
oblivion, and so serve as the groundwork of a future history of the country. The
subject so shaped itself in his mind that a proposition to establish a society of pioneers
grew out of it ; and this was heartily taken up by the older settlers of the country,
especially of the Rogue river valley, and the Association of Southern Oregon Pioneers
sprang from it. This society has existed since with increasing activity and interest.
The members gather annually for the purpose of discussing matters connected with the
early history of their section, and for social intercourse. Speeches are made, narra-
tives are told, and the contingent business of the association is transacted. A very
large proportion of the still existing pioneers of the country are members, and these
constitute a very respectable, intelligent and much revered class of men and women^
whose experiences in settling and civilizing this region have been most extraordinary,
and far beyond the comprehension of those who were born in later days or lived sur-
rounded by less critical emergencies. The roll of membership includes the following
persons: Haskel Amy, O. C. Applegate, Eli K. Anderson, Elizabeth N. Anderson,
(lilbert G. Anderson, E. L. Applegate, Lindsay Applegate, L. B. Api)legate, Albert
Alford, Catherine K. Alford, A. M. Berry, Peter Britt, Rufus Ball, C. C. Beekman,
Rial Benedict, Mary J. Benedict (died 1880), William Bybee, Thomas F. Beall, Robt-
V. Beall, James V. Bunyard, David N. Birdsey, Kinder Boaz, H. V. Bachelder, R. F.
Baldwin, John BeesoTi, W. H. Brown, Wallace G. Bishop, Mary Jane Bishop, J. A.
Cardwell, Lewis Calhoun, Theodore Cameron, Mary Ann Chambers (died 1882),
William L. Colvig, Helen M. Colvig, William M. Colvig, Henry W. Clayton, N. H.
Clayton, Thomas Chavner, Jerome B. Coats, (died 1881), John Coleman, Nicholas
Cook, Almira A. Cook, M. H. Coleman, J. H. Chitwood, Robert J. Cameron, ]Milo
Caton, R. [A. Cook, George W. Cooksey, Isaac Constant, Joseph A. Crane, G. B.
Cadwell, Lucius Danforth, David Dunlap, A. Davison, L. J. C. Duncan, E. Dimick,
B. F. Dowell, Patrick Dunn, Silas J. Day, Patrick Donegan, H. S. Emery, E. J. Far-
low, James J. Fryer, D. F. Fisher, Asa G. Fordyce, E. D. Foudray, James D. Foun-
tain, Zany Ganung. E. E. Gore, W. B. Grubb, Samuel Grubb (died 1883), Samuel B.
Grubb (died 1882),Jo]in D. Grubl), Mary E. Grubb, A. V. Gillette (died 1884),

352 SOrTHEEX OREGON.

Martha L. Gillette, Louis Girtmaii, Charles Griffith, John B. Griffin, Burrell B.
Griffin (died 1881), C. C. Goodwin, U. S. Hayden (died 1879), Frederick Heber,
James Hamlin, William Hoffman, Elizabeth Hill (died 1880), Jasper Houck, Addison
Helms, John Holton, J. H. Huifer, David L. Hopkins, Michael Hanley, S. B. Hull,
Rowland Hall, Thomas Hopwood, Rial Hinkle, George W. Isaac, Kaspar Kubli,
Charles K. Klum, Henry Klippel, William Kahler, Georgiaua A. Kahler, Silas Kil-
gore, Edward Kilgore, W. W. Kentnor, David Linn, Arthur Laugell, X. Langell,
Francis Logg, James Leslie, J. X. T. Miller, William M. Mathes, James McDonough,
John N. McDonough, Rebecca McDonough, Rachel M. Mench (died 1880), John M.
McCall, Artenecia Merriman, B. F. Miller, J. W. Manning, George W. Mace, W. C.
Myer, B. F. Myer, J. P. McDaniel, Constantine Magruder, H. H. Magruder, J. B.
Montgomery, Bennett Million, Margaret J. Miller, Isaac Miller (died 1878), Eliza-
beth Miller (died 1878), Granville Naylor, Claiborne Neil, Louisa C. Neil (died
1880), Thomas E. Nichols, John O'Brien, Joseph P. Parker (died 1882), William H.
Parker, Payne P. Prim, Samuel Phillips, W. J. Plymale, David Penegar, Champion
T. Payne, G. F. Pennebaker, John E. Ross, P. J. Ryan, A. G. Rockfellow, F. B.
Rogers, James H. Russell, Thomas G. Reames, E. R. Reames, J. W. Simijson, Thomas
Smith, Yeit Schutz, Charles W. Savage, Sylvester Saltmarsh, Joseph B. Saltmarsh, H.
Seybert, Peter Simpson, Thomas Snell, James M. Sutton (died 1879), Joseph A.
Satterfield, D. Hobart Taylor (died 1882), S. C. Taylor, Levi Tinkham (died 1880),
J. C. Tolman, John Toepper, J. B. Thomas, James Thornton, S. R. Taylor, James P.
Tufts, John R. Tice, Samuel D. YanDyke (died 1880), John B. Wrisley, John Wat-
son, Jacob Wagner, Alexander J. AVatts, ]Mary Ann Walker, John P. Walker,
Thomas Wright, H. L. Webb, A. K. Williams, Miles S. Wakeman, John Wise,
Enoch Walker, Henry York.

CHAPTER XXXIX.

THE TOWN OF ASHLAND.

Settlement of the Place— Earliest Arrivals — Building up the Town— Flour Mill— School— Manufactories— The
Academy — Woolen Mill — Churches — Masons — Odd Fellows— Good Templars— Library— Bank— Extent of
Business Officers— Surroundings.

The town of Ashland is situated at the base of the Siskiyou mountains, in the
remotest southeastern corner of Rogue river valley, at an eleA'ation of 1,900 feet above
the Pacific. It is the extreme southern town of Oregon, being only twelve miles from
the California line. It was incorporated October 13, 1874, having then a population
of 300. The first officers were Jacob Wagner, F. W. Ewing, J. R. Tozer and H. C.
Hill, trustees; Charles K. Klum, recorder; W. C. Daly, marshal; and J. M. McCall,
treasurer. The history of the place, as nearly as can be obtained, is as follows : On

the sixth day of January, 1852, R. B. Hargadine and Pease settled on the land

recently known as the Applegate farm, but now occupied by the railway depot build-

__^ ffi-^sl**

rr.

WFMS

Birds Eye View of Ashiii,

, Jackson County, Oregon.

.JACKSON COUNTY. 353

ings and new town site of the Oregon and California Railroad Coni[)any. On the
eleventh day of the same month Eben Emery, J. B. Emery, Dowd Farley, J. A.
Cardwell, A. D. Hellman and A. M. Rogers also came and settled near by. Improve-
ments were immediately commenced, and the first house built was the dwelling of
Hargadine and Pease. The second building was the sawmill built by Eben Emery,
J. B. Emery, J. A. Cardwell and Dowd Hurley. It was commenced in February,
18o2, and finished June sixteenth of that year, at a cost of .|S,000 in money and labor,
and was named the "Ashland Sawmill," in honor of Ashland, Ohio, Mr. Hellman's
former home, and also in honor of the home of Henry Clay, Ashland, Kentucky, the
majority of the company being whigs. The third building was the residence of A. D.
Hellman, and the fourth one that of Eben Emery. In the year 1854 the Ashland
flouring mills were built by A. D. Hellman, Eben Emery, J. B. Emery and M. B.
Morris, at a cost of $15,000, and were dedicated by a grand ball on the night of
August twenty-fifth of that year. These mills became the nucleus of the coming city,
which was now laid out, with the mills occupying the south side of the plaza, around
which the principal business part of the town is now built, and the name of the
sawmill "Ashland" was transferred to the town. Simultaneously with the mills the
first blacksmith shop was built by the mill company. Quite a number of other build-
ings were soon erected, to-wit: a hotel, by John R. Foster ; a butcher shop, by jNIarion
Westfall ; a carpenter and cabinet shop, by Buckingham and Williams; a wagon sho^),
by Jolin Sheldon ; and a store by R. B. Hargadine. Ashland school district, number
five, was now organized, and the first school was taught near the present residence of
Mrs. Erb, two miles east of Ashland, by the Rev. Myron Stearns. The district was
then divided at or near the Sisson place, two miles east of Ashland, the town retaining
the name and number of the district. The first school of the town proper was taught
in the house of Eben Emery, in the years 1854-5, by Miss Lizzie Anderson, now the
wife of General McCall. Nothing more of special interest transpired until April 5,
1858, when Dr. Sisson was killed. This homicide is a dark page in the history of
Ashland, and cast a shadow over the community that was not easily dispelled. Deliber-.
ation and coolness, however, in the planning and execution of the deed, were the only
things developed by the investigation of the case. Many theories regarding the crime
were advanced, but the murderer was never apprehended, nor the cause of the assassin-
nation bi-ought to light. The hotel, known as the "Ashland House," was built in the
year 1859, by Eben Emery (now of Eagle Point), at a cost of .f 3,000, by whom it was
kept for ten years, when it was sold to Jasper Houck, the present proprietor, for
|G,000. The first public schoolhouse of the town was built in 1860, on a lot donated
by R. B. Hargadine. It was a substantial frame building, eighteen by twenty feet, on
a solid foundation of cut stone, and cost|GOO. In the year 18G7 an addition of nearly
the same size was made to the original building. In 1880 increased school room
becoming necessary, a commodious two-story house, thirty-six by fifty feet, was erected
near the old building at a cost of l|2,000. In this new building a school of nine
months in each year is taught by the best instructors the country affords, from whence
250 scholars in its several departments draw that inspiration and culture that is to
prepare them for work when the government shall be upon their shoulders.

354 SOUTHERN OREGON.

The next enterprise was the marble saw-mill and shops built by James H. Rus-
sell, in the years 1865 and 1869, for the purpose of utilizing the native marbles of the
country. This mill turned out many magnificent slabs, which were afterward wrought
into monuments by Mr. and Mrs. Russell. The sawing department was destroyed in
the fire of 1879, since which time, Mr. Russell, wife and son continue the manufacture
of monuments from American and Italian marble. To Ashland belongs the credit of
the first marble works in Oregon, south of Portland.

The planing mills and cabinet shops of L. S. P. Marsh & Company were projected
and partly built by H. S. Emery, in the year 1868. In 1874, they were purchased by
Messrs. Marsh & Valpey for $1,400. Since the succession of these gentlemen to the
property extensive additions have been made to the buildings and machinery, which
are now valued at |8,000.

The Ashland college and normal school was inaugurated in 1869, at a quarterly
conference of the Methodist Episcopal church held at Ashland in June of that year.
Rev. C. Alderson, president of the meeting, proposed the enterjjrise. A committee to
interview the people and solicit funds in aid of the project was a2:)pointed, by whom a
very encouraging report was made. Plans and specifications were made out by the
Rev. J. W. Kuykeudall, and a contract was closed with Messrs. Blake & Emery for
the erection of the building. Before its completion, however, funds failed and the
enterprise was suspended. In 1872, Rev. J. H. Skidmore, at the solicitation of many
friends, and the surrender to him, by the contributors to the original fund, of all right,
title and interest in the concern, completed and furnished the building, and commenced
the school as a private enterprise. Under his management, it would have been a suc-
cess, but for the incubus of a heavy debt, with constantly accruing interest. This so
embarrassed him that he was finally compelled to abandon the enterprise and turn it
over to his creditors. From these it was redeemed in 1878 by its friends and jjlaced
again under the supervision of the above church, as a college and normal school. Prof.
L. L. Rogers, A. M., was chosen president, and the school again started under the
most flattering auspices and patronage. Unforeseen complications, however, arising, it
was soon in the dust of humility. Patrons forsook it, friends became disheartened, and
Mr. Rogers resigned his position. Though the case now seemed almost hopeless, the
trustees resolved to make one more trial, and on August 26, 1882, the present incum-
bent, Rev. M. G. Royal, A. M.,was appointed to the management. Since his installation
the course of the school has been onward and upward. The state has made it a branch
of its normal school system, alienated friends are i-eturning to it, and the highest hopes
are entertained of usefulness for the institution.

The Ashland Woolen Mills was originally established by a joint-stock company
consisting of thirty members, with J. M. McCall as the leading spirit. It was inaugu-
rated in the year 1867, and began operations in 1868, under the name and style of the
Rogue River Woolen Manufacturing Company, with J. M. McCall, president ; C. K.
Klum, secretary; and John Daley, superintendent. The mill was completed and
equipped with one set of cards, one spinning jack, four looms, and the necessary oper-
ating and finishing machinery, at a cost of $32,000. It was operated three years by
the original company, without profit to the stock-holders, when it was sold to G. N.
Marshall and Charles Goodchild. During the second year of this administration James

JACKSON COUNTY. 355

Tlioi-nton became a partner in the business, and in 1878 he bought the entire stock of
the concern. In the same year "W. H. Atkinson, Jacob Wagner and E. K. Anderson
became partners with Mr. Thornton, when the name of the concern was changed to
" Asliland Woolen Manufacturing Company." In 1881, Mr. Wagner retired, and
Capt. J. M. McCall again became interested in the business. Since 1878 machinery
and improvements to the amount of $10,000, have been added. The manufacturing
machinery now consists of one set of cards, seven bi'oad looms, two spinning jacks of
240 spindles each, two full sets of knitting machinery of the latest and most approved
styles, with every other needed appliance. The present capacity of the mill is over
10,000 pounds of wool per month. It is operated day and night, the year round —
Sundays excepted — by thirty skilled employes, and furnishes employment to as many
other persons in the manufacture of under-wear, finishing of hosiery &c. Shawls,
blankets and hosiery are specialties of these mills, but they manufacture all the ordinary
woolen products. These articles find a ready market, with such increasing demand for
them as to warrant increased capacity for their production, which is already in con-
templation by the proprietors. The mills are run by water power and the motive
machinery is a twenty-six-inch turbine, with thirty-two feet pressure. James Thorn-
ton is general superintendent, W. H. Atkinson business manager, and J. R. Casey
foreman. A lithographic view of the mill adorns the pages of this work.

The planing mill and cabinet shop of Daley & company were built in 1878, by
the present proprietors, at a cost of $3,000. They are situated at the junction of
Mechanic and Hellman Streets. The power used is the water of Ashland creek, acting
on a turbine wheel. They have a wide range of usefulness, and turn out annually a
large amount and variety of carpentry and cabinet work. Proprietors, W. G. Daley,
J. R. Tozer and H. S. Emery.

The extensive nursery of Orlando Coolidge, will bear special mention. It was
established in 1868, and is the most extensive of its kind in Southern Oregon. It con-
tains almost all varieties of fruits, nuts, shrubs, flowers and ornamental trees to be found
on the coast. Mr. Coolidge's fruits and Mrs. Coolidge's flowers are the desire and
admiration of neighbors and strangers. The epicure and the lover of the beautiful each
find food for a highly cultivated taste in their orchards and gardens.

The permanent organization of the Methodist Episcopal church in Ashland took
place in July, 18(;)4, by Rev. P. M. Starr, P. E., of Jacksonville circuit. The members
were David P. Walrad and wife, A. G. Rockfellow and wife, INIrs Jacob Wagner, Mrs.
Mary Myer, William Jaquett and wife, W. C. Myer and wife, Heaton Fox and wife,^
and D. P. Brittain and wife. The organization lias been maintained and meetings of
the church regularly held from the date of the organization to the present. In 1875-6,
the present church building was erected at a cost of |3,500. The dimensions are
thirty-six by fifty-six feet. The membership of the society now fifty, and of the Sab-
bath school sixty. The trustees are Amos Willits, C. B. Kingsbury, D. P. Walrad,
Jacob Wagner, W. C. Myer and A. G. Rockfellow. The various pa.stors of the M. E.
church who have labored in Jackson county since its settlement are T. F. Royal,
Stephen Tavter, Orlando Raynour, Archy Taylor, George Greer, G. G. Belknap,
John Flynn, C. C. Stratton, I. D. Driver, J. W. Miller, P. M. Starr, C. Alderson, J.
W. Kuvkendall, (;eorgo Hughbanks. (J. W. Roork,Noah Starr, W. H. Hurlburt, John

35(5 SOUTHERN OREGON.

T. Wolfe, J. H. McCain, W. T. Chapman, L. L. Rogers, Laclru Royal, B. J. Sharp, J.
H. Skidmore aud D. W. Crowell.

The Baptists' organization in Ashland was begun in February, 1877, under the
name of the First Baptist church. The persons connected with it at its inception were
Rev. J. F. Bradford, Rev. A. Brown, Deacons Horace Root and C. P. Tallent, Elder
Horace Ritter, L. W. Robertson, M. Robertson, M. A. Robertson, S. E. Ritter, Eliza-
beth Hill and Caroline Ritter. The first meetings were held at the school house, but
the Presbyterian church is now in use for the purpose. The pastor is Rev. A. M. Rus-
sell. This church belongs to the organization originally known as the Umpqua Bap-
tist Association, which dated its beginning from June, 1863; but at a later date that,
association was dissolved, and another, known as the Rogue River Baptist Association
was formed, including seven churches, three in Josephine and four in Jackson. This
body meets annually with some one of the churches composing it, and administers upon"
its community affairs.

The First Presbyterian church of Ashland was organized on the twenty-eighth of
August, 1875, by Rev. Thomas Frazer, missionary agent of the synod of the Pacific. The
original members were Mrs. M. A. Gillette, E. Giddings, M. Jacobs, Mr. and Mrs. W. AV.
Kentnor, Mrs. Woodson, U. Ewing, J. Buick, A. H. Russell, M. M. Dunn, B. Taylor,
Mr. aud Mrs. C. Neil, Mrs. Wells, Mr. and Mrs. Samuel Grubb, and Miss Sarah
Grubb. In 1878, the society was incorporated. The first board of officers were: G.
H. Marshall, chairman; W. H. Atkinson, clerk and treasurer; and Samuel Grubb,
J. P. Walker, and W. W. Kentnor, trustees. The old district school house served as
a place of meeting, originally, but a church was erected in block number five, in the
year 1878, costing $3,200, which is now occupied by the society. The present member-
ship is about thirty.

Ashland possesses several secular societies, the Masons, Odd Fellows, Order of
the Eastern Star and Good Templars being the principal. Ashland Lodge, number
45, Independent Order of Odd Fellows, was organized July 23, 1873, with D. S. K.
Buick, Morris Baum, William Taylor, Jacob Slagle, J. W. Cunningham and W. W.
Kentnor, as charter members. The records having been burned, it is impossible to
give any portionof the lodge's history. A fine building — Odd Fellows' Hall — has been
constructed at a cost of $6,000, and this, with their paraphernalia, constitutes the
lodge's property. The present officers are: X. G., W. W. Kentnor; V. G., W. C-
Daley; recording secretary, H. C. Myer; P. S., F. M. Drake; treasurer, H. Inlow;
warden, W. Baldwin; conductor, T. D. Fountain; I. G., L. A. Xeil; L. S. K G., J.
W. Burris; R. S. V. G., J. B. Russell; L. S. V. G., J. P. Woodson; R. S. S., G. F.
Pennebaker.

Ashland Lodge, number 23, A. F. & A. Masons, was organized in June 1875,
by the Grand Lodge of A. F. & A. M., of Oregon. Charter members — W. H. Atkin-
son, J. R. N. Bell, N. Conkling, P. Dunn, J. S. Ewbanks, H. C. Hill, A. S. Jacobs,
C. S. Sergent, J. H. Skidmore, J. C. Tolman, Jacob Wagner, Justus Wells and Free-
man Yandell. First Officers— H. C. Hill, W. M.; J. R. N. Bell, S. W.; P. Dunn, J.
W. ; Jacob Wagner, treasurer, and W. H. Atkinson, secretary. Present officers — ^y.
H. Atkinson, W. M. ; L. F. Willitts, S. W.; M. L. McCall,' J. W. ; J. M. McCall,
treasurer ; H. T. Chitwood, secretary ; H. Fox, tyler. The present membership is

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JACKSON COUNTY. 357

about fifty. The society possesses the well-known ^Masonic Hall in Ashland, built in
1870, costing 17,(300, to take the place of their former hall, destroyed by fire during
the same year.

Ashland Lodge, No. 453, Independent Order of ( Jood Templars, was [organized
November 9, 1883, by Deputy G. W. C. T. William Harris. The charter" members
numbered one hundred and forty-three. Officers — AV. H. Leeds, W. C. T. ; Mrs. R.
Alford, W. Y. T.; H. C. Myer," P. W. C. T. ; W. A. Wilshire, secretary; Frank
Howell, chaplain; Miss Delia Pennebaker, W. M. ; C. C. Walker, dejjuty marshal ;
Fred Wagner, F. S.; Miss Hattie Thornton, W. T. ; Ida Beach, I. G.; J. D. Fountain,
sentinel. Place of meeting. Odd Fellows' Hall ; property, necessary regalia and
furniture.

Alpha Chapter, (_)rder of Eastern Star, was founded March 13, 1880, by authority
of the grand chapter of the United States, and was the earliest established in Oregon.
The present membership is seventy; the place of meeting. Masonic Hall.

The Ancient Order of United Workmen have organized a branch known as
Ashland Lodge No. 66, of whom W. J. Plymale is D. G. M. W., the list of charter
members including some of the best citizens of the place, Messrs. Leeds, Miller, Atkin-
son, McKee, Willit, Burriss, Brown, Wilshire, Butler, Andrews, Patterson, Reeser,
Tucker, Bi.sh, Morris, Hill, Billings, Alnutt, Lamb, Martin and others belonging at
various times, and assisting to maintain a society which derives its principal wealth
from its reputation.

Probably no town in Oregon has evinced such refined and elevated public senti-
ment as Ashland. In the matter of temperance the population were once a unit in
favor of prohibition of intoxicating fluids, and only of late have been compelled to
tolerate the existence of saloons. The extraordinary number of members of the Good
Templar union will testify to the prevailing feeling. In matters of education their
sentiment has been equally commendable. Besides the common school and academy
there was a public library, organized in December, 1871), under the name of the
Ashland library and reading-room association, whereof J. M. jMcCall, M. Baum, W*
H. Atkinson, W. A. Wilshire, James Thornton, H. C. Plill, J. P. Walker, H. T.
Chitwood, W. H. Leeds, W. Nichols and others were members. They existed about
two years, when the books and other property were transferred to the Masonic society
for their use and benefit, and are now controlled by a committee from that body.
There are about 20O volumes in the library, besides files of the more im])ortant literary
j3ublications of this country.

The Ashland bank was incorporated February i>, 1884, with a c-aiiital stock of
$50,000, divided into 500 shares of $100 each. The incori)orators wei'e J. M. .McCall,
W. H. Atkinson and H. B. Carter.

The business of Ashland, always considerable, has increased largely of late, and
the place wears a characteristic air of commercial enterprise and activity. There are
four stores of general merchandise, two groceries, two hardware stores, two drugstores,
one factory, one furniture store, three of millinery, two jewelry, one confectionery,
and one dealer in second-hantl articles. Total, nineteen business houses. Then there
are the woolen mills, the flour mill, the planing mills, saw mill, two cabinet shops, two
carpenter shops, one marble works, two blacksmith slioj)s, three shoe shops, one wagon

358 SOUTHERN OREGON.

making and repair shop, gunsmith, three barber shops, two watch makers, one bakery,
one meat market and two j^aint shops, making a total of twenty-one establishments of
the industrial order. There are four doctors, two dentists, and four lawyers. There is
the common school, taught by four teachers, and the academy, taught by five. There
are four real estate and a large number of fire and life insurance agencies, with others
doing business in musical instruments, sewing machines, agricultural implements,
wagons, etc., aggregating thirty-eight. There is a newspaper of excellent standing,
the Tidings, published weekly by W. H. Leeds, editor and proprietor. Four hotels
and restaurants, a bank, two photographic galleries, two notaries public, a livery stable,
two laundries, a shooting gallery, and five saloons, make up the remainder of the active
institutions of the town. The population of the town was, in 1854, twenty-five ; in
1864, fifty; in 1874,300; and in 1884, approximately, 1,000. The present board of
trustees consists of H. C. Hill, chairman ; M. L. McCall, Jacob Thompson, James
Thornton, and J. W. Burriss. Eecorder, A. V. Gillette (deceased February, 1884) ;
Marshal, S. D. Taylor; Treasurer, C. K. Khun ; Street Commissioner, P. Littleton ;
Postmaster, A. P. Hammond. The aggregate amount of capital invested in the several
departments of trade, with the value of necessary real estate, aggregates $332,600, as
ascertained by a careful canvass. The aggregate of sales for the six months preceding
February 12, 1883, was $134,714. The corresponding aggregate for the half year
ending February 12, 1884, was $267,991 ; showing an increase of almost exactly one
hundred per cent.

Ashland has been visited in the past by several fires, more or less destructive,
occurring as follows : In 1859, the post office, Kentnor's wagon shop, Hellman's cabi-
net shop, etc., were burned — loss, $3,000. In the following year Foster's hotel was
damaged to the extent of $1,000. In 1868, Gillette's cabinet shop and the post office
■were destroyed — loss, $2,000. In 1879, INIiller's blacksmith shop, the post office, and
many other buildings were burned — loss, $30,000. In 1881 and 1883 two small fires
occurred, burning two blacksmith shops — loss, $4,000.

Architecturally, Ashland is one of the finest of towns. Its situation is all that
could be desired ; its buildings are really creditable ; its surroundings are beautiful ;
and its social advantages are of a very high order. The upper end of Bear creek
valley wherein the town is located, although contracted in area, is agriculturally im-
portant, and lies on the direct route to California. The condition of the farms near
by is very advanced. All the ordinary crops yield finely, and the ground is tolerably
well cultivated. A few scientific and reasoning farmers and stock growers have located
themselves in the vicinity, and their influence has been felt in the rapid improvement
of agriculture. The farms are mainly devoted to wheat, oats, barley and corn, which
yield good crops. The grasses — timothy, redtop, clover and alfalfa — grow wherever
sufficient moisture can be had, the latter (introduced by W. C. Myer in 1860) doing
excellently. The common vegetables and fruits (the latter including the apple, plum,
peach, pear, prunes of several sorts, cherry, apricot, nectarine and grape), flourish well,
sometimes extremelv so. Berries and currants also do well, and are quite a resource.

i

CHAPTER XLIIL

JACKSONVILLE.

An Interesting Town- Its Foundation Growth— Social Progress— Buildings— Law and Order- Lynch Law—
A Picture of Flush Times -Judicial Matters— Interesting Episodes—Caucus of Women -The Table Rock
" Sentinel "—Other Newspapers— Subsequent Events.

The county seat of Jackson county is the oldest town in Southern Oregon, and a
point of the greatest historical interest. Moderate and unobtrusive, half crowning a
low range of hills, half hidden in the edge of the valley, at its southwestern extremity;
people wonder why it was built in an apparently isolated situation, but the story is
simple. In the early days the whisper of a marvelously rich gold discovery was heard;
it passed from mouth to mouth till it was told across the Siskiyous, in Northern Cali-
fornia, and in the settlements of the Willamette. Soon the silent hills and gulches
were touched as if by the wand of an enchanter, and whitened with the tents of thous-
ands of eager hunters ; the luxuriant grass and wild flowers that had sheltered the
timid deer and antelope, or had yielded only to the stealthy moccasin, were trampled
into dust by the heavier feet of the stronger race; the lordly pines and oaks were
stricken down ; the hills and gulches seamed and scarred by the miner's pick ; the town
site itself burrowed and honey-combed wdth drifts and tunnels, and the oppressive
silence of nature changed, in a few months, to a scene of restless activity. Time has
healed the ugly scars ; nearly every trace of the ephemeral city is gone ; but the Jack-
sonville of to-day, with its pleasant surroundings, thrift and culture, is the substantial
outgrowth of the chaos and social fever engendered by an iiulustvial avalanche, so
common in the mining regions.

Much of the history of Jacksonville is unwritten; but, fortunately, many of those
who dug its foundations, and reared its schools and churches, still survive, and upon
the faithfulness of their memories must depend the accuracy of the records. It was in
December, 1851, or January, 1852, that Rich gulch was struck, the first gold being
taken out near the present crossing of Oregon street. Gold had been found somewhat
earlier, on Jackson creek, nearly opposite the present City brewery, by two young
men, who communicated the fact to James Cluggage and J. R. Poole, who were travel-
ing through the valley. The I'esult was the discovery of Rich gulch by Cluggage and
Poole, who associated with them James Skinner and Wilson, who conjointly claimed
four hundred feet of the gulch. It was not long until the secret of a " discovery,"
where men could wash out a pint cup of gold, daily, leaked out. In February, 1852,
every foot of the gulch was staked out and claimed, and by March the surrouniling
hills and gulches were, in spite of the evident hostility of the Indians, tilled with the
rapidly swelling population, and soon the first discovery was the center of an extensive

360 SOUTHERN OEEGOX.

miuing region. In February a trading post was opened in a tent by xippler & Kenny,
packers from Yreka. It was by no means a bazaar, the stock comprising only a few
tools and a little " torn iron," the roughest clothing and boots, and some " black strap "
tobacco, and a liberal supply of whisky — not the royal nectar, perhaps, but, never-
theless, the solace of the miner in heat or cold, in prosperity and in adversity. Other
traders followed, bringing supplies of every kind, pitching their tents on the most
available ground, and finding plenty of customers flush with treasure. In March the
first log cabin was erected by W. W. Fowler, near the head of Main, the only street in
the embryo city. Lumber was "whip-sawed" in the gulches, at the rate of $250
per thousand, or purchased in small quantities from a saw mill up the valley ; clap-
board houses, with real sawed doors and window-frames, began to rise among the tents;
the little, busy town emerged from the chrysalis state, and before the end of summer
assumed an air of solidity, and fairly entered on the second stage of its existence.
During this time a marked change had taken place in the social structure of Jack-
sonville. Gamblers, courtesans, sharpers of every kind, the class that struck prosper-
ous mining camps like a blight, flocked to the new El Dorado. Saloons multiplied
beyond necessity ; monte and faro games were in full blast, and the strains of music
allured the " honest miner," and led his feet into many a dangerous place, where he
and his treasure were soon parted. Notwithstanding the loose and reckle?s character
of a large portion of the population, unrestrained by the refining influences of organized
society, crime was remarkably rare. It is true there was no written law. The hastily
prepared handful of territorial laws, borrowed from the Iowa code, gensrally relating
to property rights, had hardly crystallized into shape, and were inoperative at so
remote a point from the seat of territorial government, and where there was neither
countv organization nor judicial officers. But there was a law higlier, stronger, more
effective than written codes — the stern necessity of mutual protection — and a strong
element had the courage and will to enforce it. Justice was administered b}- the people's
court ; its findings were singularly correct, its decrees inflexible, its punishments certain.
In 1852 the first court of this character was convened. A miner named Potts was
shot dead, without provocation, by a gambler named Brown. Immediately every
claim was vacated. Men, not angry, but outraged by the dastardly deed, gathered in
hundreds, and the assassin was secured. That fine sense of chivalry and fairness,
common, even on the frontier, prompted a proper investigation, and in the absence of
even a justice of the peace, W. W. Fowler, now a resident of California, was appointed
judge. A jury of twelve men was selected. The case was tried by the rules of right
and wrong, divested of legal technicalities ; Brown was clearly proved guilty of a
cowardly murder, and taken to an oak grove, a little north of the site of the Presby-
terian church, hanged, and buried under a tree, a few yards west of where the church
now stands, and the remains have never been removed. The court was quietly dis-
solved, the judge disclaiming the right to exercise further jurisdiction, but the lesson
was salutary and effective.

This summer a partial survey of the town was made by Henry Klippel and

Smith, who laid out Oregon and California streets. In the fall of 1852 the demand
for provisions largeh' exceeded the supply, and when the exceptionally severe winter
set in there was serious cause of alarm. Snow commenced falling heavily about the

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/!^D THE Rogue River Valley, Oregon.

JACKSON COUNTY. 361

middle of November until all trails were completely blocked, aud ingress to the crowded
cami:) rendered impossible. Flour at once rose to a dollar per pound and the supply-
was soon exhausted. Tobacco sold readily at a dollar per ounce, but salt was priceless.
Several adventurous men crossed the Siskiyous on snow-shoes, returning- with a small
supply and realized a handsome profit. Fortunately beef was plenty, game was easily
obtained and numbers of men subsisted for months entirely on meat, in many cases
without salt, and suffered no serious consequences. In the spring of 1853 necessity
compelled the creation of a judicial tribunal. Disputes regarding rights to water, to
mining ground or other species of property were frequent, and adjustments by arbitra-
tion had generally proved unsatisfactory. By common consent an immense mass meet-
ing was held on Jackson creek and attended by citizens of the town and miners from
Rich gulch. At this meeting a man named Rogers was appointed " alcalde " — after
the Spanish style — and invested with unlimited jurisdiction. It was soon apparent,
however, that Rogers was unworthy of public confidence and the fountain head of
power was again drawn upon. A dis23ute arose between two miner's, Sims and Sprenger,
involving the joint ownership of a mining claim, in which Sims denied his partner's
rights. An appeal was made to the alcaldi's court and Sims was sustained. The case
was one of peculiar hardship; Sims' partner had held the claim while Sims was absent
in the Willamette valley, and during the winter had been unfortunate enough to have
a leg broken. The wronged man now appealed to the people. He recited his griev-
ances from camp to camp until the mining ^^opulation was thoroughly aroused. There
was a keen sense of justice among the frontiersmen, and a long established principle of
their simple ethics demanded that a man should be the friend and champion of his
partner, under all circumstances, instead of his oppressor. A rousing meeting was
held, attended by over a thousand miners. The alcalde stubbornly stood by his decis-
ion and the excitement became intense. Angry speeches were made and the officer was
threatened with violence, when a miner proposed the election of a "superior" alcalde;
holding that the power that created one court was competent to create another. The
idea struck the crowd as sound and a superior judge was determined on. There was
but one man worthy of the honor, a high spirited, educated miner, a native of Connecti-
cut, named U. S. Hayden ; and against his earnest protestations, he was unanimously
proclaimed "chief justice." A bailiff was appointed, a jury empanelled and the case
brought before His Honor on its merits. The appellant appeared by his attorneys, P. P.
Prim who had exchanged Blackstone for the pick and shovel and by Daniel Kenny,
who made up for lack of legal knowledge by a keen perception of frontier character
and the soft spots of a miners' jury. Sims, the respondent, secured the services of
Oiange Jacobs, a young attorney from Michigan, recently arrived ; more ferailiar with
written law than with the unwritten code of the mining regions. As might be expected,
Sims' partner was reinstated in his right and the decision of the court and jury stood
un(|uestioned. Two of the attorneys in this case— both still living— subsequently occu-
l)ied high places on the bench. Prim having been for eighteen years circuit judge and
for one term chief justice of Oregon ; and Jacobs having been for two terms chief justices
of Washington territoiy, and twice a delegate to congress while the third, Kenuy,
and Alcalde Hayden have gone before the tribunal higher than all— from which
there is no appeal ; the latter having been honored for twenty consecutive years by

362 SOUTHEEN OREGON.

subordinate judicial station and when death removed the ermine from tlie shouklers of
the worthy officer it was jjure and stainless.

The progress of Jacksonville in 1853, was marked by the accession of many
respectable families. Hitherto, Mrs. Napoleon Evans, Mrs. Jane McCully and Mrs.

Lawless, had made up the sum total of ladies' society. The emigration of this

spring poured in a large number of settlers, many of whom occupied the rich lands of
the adjacent valley while others located in the town. The improvement in society was
more apparent than in the town itself Many buildings were erected but they were
neither ornate nor durable, being hastily constructed, and only to serve the necessities
of the hour. Owing to the fact that all sujDplies were brought in on pack animals, not
a single jmne of glass was used in Jacksonville that year, but cotton drilling was a
reasonably convenient substitute. One of the obstacles to the substantial imj)rove-
ment of the town was the uncertainty of title. Cluggage, one of the discoverers of the
mines, had taken a donation claim covering the town site, but wisely disclaimed any
intention of interfering with the vested rights of miners as he well knew that in a mining
camp peaceable possession was a title that the government itself regarded as valid.
Many of the citizens had occupied lots and built upon them prior to Cluggage's appli-
cation. Others, confident that the framers of the donation law never contemi)lated the
bestowal of town sites, chose their locations and built their homes with the full knowl-
edge that Cluggage had applied for a jDatent. Between these two classes and the
claimant there was continual distrust and bickering ; the uncertainty of the issue pre-
vented substantial improvement and the subsequent success of Cluggage proved the
greatest curse that could be inflicted on a struggling community.

1853 was a year of troubles and excitement in the new town. A deadly war had
been determined on by the Indians who were every day more emboldened by success :
more eager for blood as each successive white life was taken. Several settlers in the
outskirts of the valley had been picked off by straggling Indians. One afternoon in
August the crack of a " Siwash" rifle was heard just in -the eastern edge of town ; a
riderless mule with a bloody saddle galloped madly along California street, and was
recognized as that of a prominent citizen, Thomas Wills, who had been absent from
town but for a few hours. Armed men went instantly to where the shot had been
heard, and soon returned with the bleeding body of Mr. Wills, who had received a
mortal wound, and survived only a few days. This audacious act angered and alarmed
the townspeople, and among the families there was intense excitement, there being
scarcely a bullet-proof habitation in town, which could be easily ajiproached under
cover from nearly every direction. To make matters worse, arms were by no means
plenty, and there is little doubt that had an attack been made in force, and the sav-
ages been willing to risk their skins, they might have captured and destroyed the little
town. The people, aroused to a sense of danger, effected a partial organization for
defense. Pickets were thrown out nightly, and the greatest vigilance was exercised by
day, but notwithstanding all jirecautions only a few days elapsed until a man named
Nolan was shot dead within rifle range of the business street. This species of warfare
w^as exasperating, and it was but a few days before the Indian method of reprisal was
resorted to. Two Indian boys, " Little Jim" and another, mere striplings, came into
town, perhaps from motives of curiosity, possibly as spies. It was scarcely probable

JACKSON COUNTY. 3G3

that they were the miscreants who lay in wait at the very thresliokl [of the town to
skiy unoffending whites ; there was not the slightest evidence that they had committed
any crime — they were too young to be warriors — but in the bitter anger of the moment
it was sufficient that they were Indians. They were soon seized by an excited crowd
who scarcely knew what to do with the terror-stricken prisoners, and some of the
roughest shrank from the commission of an act that they knew was not brave, and
that they feared was hardly just. The mob swayed and surged, wavering between
desire and doubt, when T. McF. Patton sprang upon a wagon and in a few words
decided the question. The boys were hanged on an oak on the bank of Jackson creek,
while protesting piteously that they had never wronged the whites. Sober reflection
brought regret for an act that by no means exalted the white character, and it is
very probable that the dreadful savagery subsequently experienced by white families
was in retaliation for a deed that, in calmer moments, was regretted as neither cour-
ageous nor justifiable.

This was the last session of the people's court in Jackson county, for on Sep-
tember 5, 1853, a regular court was held in Jacksonville, by Hon. Matthew P.
Deady, who had just been appointed United States district judge for the Territory of
Oregon, by President Pierce, and it is almost needless to say that his honor presided
with distinguished ability. The officers of tlie court were, L. F. Grover (subsequently
governor of Oregon and senator in congress), United States district attorney ^jro lem. ;
Columbus Sims, territorial prosecuting attorney ; Joseph W. Drew, deputy marshal ;
Matthew G. Kennedy, sheriff".

The first case tried was R. Hereford vs. David M. Thorpe — in assumpsit ; and
the court adjourned on September ninth. The extension of the territorial juris-
diction over Jackson county was exceedingly satisfactory to the people, for it sur-
rounded them with the decent forms of law, to which they had been accustomed
elsewhere, and relieved them of a great responsibility. The crude judicial system
born of pioneer necessity now passed away, but it can be safely said that it was stained
with few errors, though sometimes swayed by passion ; and, simple as it was, it
afforded ample protection to the community. During the spring of this year a large
religious element arrived with the immigration, mostly from the western and middle
states, and steps were taken to found a Methodist church. The most active workers were
Rev. Joseph S. Smith, afterwards representative in congress from Oregon, who had
been assigned to Jacksonville as pastor, his wife and the Misses Overbeck and Royal, the
two latter going from camp to camp and soliciting money from the miners for the church.
Times were flush and there were few financial difficulties, as the garablere and
sporting men, with proverbial liberality, provided a large portion of the means, and
the edifice was soon under way. Possibly, the sporting fraternity, to use their own
phrase, were "hedging" against bad fortune in the world to come. The church was not
finished that year, but it was removed to the spot where it now stands, finished by T.
F. Royal, and used as a joint place of worship by Methodists and Presbyterians for
over twenty-five years. In May, of this year, communication was opened up by Oram,
Rogers & Co., of Yreka, a branch of the express house of Adams & Co., of San Fran-
cisco. C. C. Beekman, still a prosperous and honored citizen of Jacksonville, was reg-
ularly dispatched as messenger, extending his trips over the lonely mountains to Ores-

364 SOUTHEEN OREGON.

cent City, cari-ying letters and papers, and hundreds of thousands of dollars in gold
dust. It looks strange that, during all the troublous times, the plucky messenger was
never molested, although travelling generally alone, and always choosing the night to
cross the Siskiyous. On August 27, the first child was born in Jacksonville — a son to
Doctor and Mrs. McCully — and every miner and trader in the neighborhood consid-
ered himself a godfather to the newcomer, and made it his especial business to spoil the
graceless little scamp, and teach him lessons that required years of Sunday school
attendance to eradicate, and the boy's name is James Cluggage McCully, in honor of
the founder of the town. This was a year of the greatest prosperity. Exceedingly rich
ground had been struck, not only on the main creek, but on both its branches. Large
stocks of merchandise had been packed on mules from Crescent City, the nearest sea-
port and distant one hundred and twenty miles. A hasty peace had been patched up
with the Indians, and the miners, allowed to work without molestation, poured large
quantities of treasure into the town, which was now the distributing point for a large
territory. On Saturdays and Sundays the streets were crowded with buyers and sellers,
Mexican packers, red-shirted miners, ranchmen, and an occasional "siwash" who moved
sullenly among the motley throng, with ill-concealed hatred of the strangers, who were
pushing him from his hunting grounds. Night, however, was the season of gaiety and
enjoyment. The miner was always prodigal of his dust, probably always will be, and
the Jacksonville miner was no exception. Gaming and drinking were little disgrace,
if the one was successful, or the other not pushed to the verge of debauchery, and it is
often remarked by early settlers that there never was a mining camp where personal
liberty was less restrained, better enjoyed or less abused than in the Jacksonville of
'53. This year a kiln of brick was burned for the store of Morford & Davis, and its
walls were well advanced before the close of the season. Marl from the "desert"
beyond Bear creek was used instead of lime, while, strangely enough, there was a splen-
did ledge of the finest limestone within ten miles of town, and daily passed over by
scores of niiners. The building, the first brick in the town, was finished in the
next spring, by Maury & Davis, and stood among the best j^reserved buildings in
Jacksonville, until burned in 1873, and replaced by the present town hall. During
the pinching want of the winter of this year there were many sharp and decided con-
trasts. Generally, the small store of flour was fairly divided till it was exhausted, but
occasionally it was hidden with an almost pardonable selfishness by some one who was
more lucky than generous. One evening when flour had become so scarce that it was
no longer talked of, Henry Klippel and John Hill man were passing through a back
lot on their way home, when Klij)pel stopped suddenly and said, "John, I smell bread."
"So do I," said Hillman ; "let's prospect." In a few moments they found two delicious
loaves, set out to cool, in the rear of jiremises occupied by a trader named Sam. Gold-
stein. The temptation was great, but, with prosier generosity, they divided with the
owner and took but one loaf The next morning the two gentlemen visited the trader,
j)riced clothing and boots till his patience flagged, and at last ventured to touch on the
subject of breadstuffs. "Ah, ha!" exclaimed the merchant; 'T smells somedings; you
ish de rascals dot stole mine loaf!" "We are," replied Klippel, with the air of a man
who had the situation in hand; "and we just propose to have you divide flour as we
divided bread with you last night, so, shell it out." Approaching the boys with

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JACKSON COUNTY. 3fi5

ui^lifted hands, aud a couutenance beaming with truth, Samuel, in a voice husky with
emotion, assured them, "so help him Abraham," that it took the last spoonful of flour
in the house to make that loaf, and, burying his face in his hands, he wept at his utter
destitution. The boys departed in silence, deeply touched, but subsequent information
as to the state of Sam's larder, caused a life-long regret that they had not taken the
other loaf During the winter of this memorable year, salt was the precious article,
but neighbors kindly divided with each other — a pinch at a time — and even after the
lapse of thirty years, old pioneers in the country bring little presents to acquaintances
in town, always refusing pay, with the remark, "Could I take anything from a friend
who divided salt with me in '53?"

At the close of 1853 Jacksonville was in a prosperous condition. It was now the
center of trade and the distributing point for a large area of rich agricultural land, as
well as an extensive mining region. Those carrying the heaviest stocks at the begin-
ning of 1854 were Maury & Davis, Appier & Kenny, Birdsye & Etliuger, Sam Gold-
stein, John Anderson, J. Bruner, Wells & Friedlander, Fowler & Davis, and Little &
Westgate ; the latter being also the proprietors of a flourishing saloon and bowling-
alley. A number of smaller establishments were kept by Joseph Holman and others,
who have almost passed from memory. A commodious hotel — the Robinson House,
on the site of the present United States Hotel — was owned and conducted by Dr. Jesse
Robinson, while a private boarding house, patronized by the eliie, was managed by
Mrs. Gass, afterwards Mrs. W. W. Fowler. The Arkansas stable, yet standing, a
mouldering relic of the past, was run by Joe Davis, and was a flourishing institution.
Dr. McCully was proprietor of a bakery, and Hazeltine and Gilson were in the same
business. Pyle & McDonough carried on a successful carpenter shop, and quite an
extensive furniture shop was run by James S. Burpee. Zigler & Martin, Cozart &
Ralls, and Thomas Hopwood did the blacksmithing, and the latter is credited with
having made the first plow manufactured in Rogue river valley. The winter of 185:>— t
was exceptionally cold and dry, diminishing the water supply and checking the yield
of gold from the mines ; but most of the miners were flush and enjoyed the idle months
in gaiety or in dissipation, adding largely to the fast growing town. Society began to
crystallize into shape, and caste slowly asserted the right to draw social lines. The
gentler sex, increasing in numbers, began to refine the community, and draw, as a
magnet attracts to itself, the better portion of society from the rougher mass, and dic-
tated greater conventionalism in dress and manners. The rough, unkempt, blue-
shirted miner, or greasy packer, could hardly cope in ladies' society with the young
bloods, attired in "boiled shirts" and white vests, and those who desired the f/(/m^
among the creme dc la creme of Jacksonville society were soon provided with broad-
cloth and fine linen, and their wardrobes were always at the service of fi-iends, during
the owner's absence. With the increase of families came a necessity for a school, and
early in the winter one was organized by Miss Royal. The attendance was small, and
the studies did not run high in the educational scale ; but, nevertheless, it gratified the
pride of the friends of education, and many a miner shook an ounce from his purse
into the hand of the enterprising teacher, when she visited the claims soliciting contri-
butions for the support of the" little school, that through many struggles, and some
subsequent opposition, has grown to be one of the best in the state. As population

366 SOUTHERN OREGON

increased, aud the means of civilization were nearer, there seemed to be no jjrogress in
public morality. A regulai- court, with all the necessary legal machinery, had been
organized under the territorial laws; but it failed to awe evil-doers, or to suppress
outlawry, as effectually as the more primitive mode of the pioneers that preceded it.
An examination of the court records for 1854 shows an alarming increase of crime,
from murder and raj)e, to larceny. The civil docket is burdened with every sjjecies
of litigation, and it may have been that increased facilities for wrangling made men
more captious and less inclined to observe their obligations, and gave assurance to
criminals. But whether or not this view is correct, the fact remains that the record
is extremely discreditable. On the sixth day of February a new judge called court.
The enemies of Judge Deady had been busy at Washington, it is said, and by the
most gross misrepresentation procured his displacement, the executive appointing O.
B. McFadden, a citizen of Pensylvania, to" the territorial bench. Court was held in a
building next to the " New State " saloon, and it was a most unpretentious temple of
justice. The bench was a dry-goods box, covered with a blue blanket, and it is quite
probable that the uncomfortable seat occupied by the judge was so irksome, that it had
something to do with his rapid dispensation of justice. The officers of the court were
Columbus Sims, prosecuting attorney ; G. Kennedy, sheriff; and Lycurgus Jackson,
clerk. On the first day of court, Payne P. Prim and D. B. Brenan w^ere admitted to
the bar, and the grand jury was empaneled. On the seventh, true bills were returned
against Indians George and Tom, charging them with the murder of James C. Kyle,
on 1853 ; October 7, on the same day they were arraigned and put upon trial. Prim
and Brenan having been apjiointed counsel for the accused. The proceedings were
brief, the evidence, mostly that of Indians, who were anxious to preserve peace with
the whites, left no doubt as to the guilt of the j^risouers, and the jury, with little
deliberation, announced a verdict of guilty. In the meantime the grand jury had
found another indictment against Indian Thompson, for the murder of Edwards, in the
spring of 1853, and he, too, was quickly convicted. On the ninth, it appears from the
record, Indian George was sentenced to be " hanged by the neck until dead," the time
of execution being fixed between the hours of ten and twelve of the succeeding day ;
but it does not appear that the other two convicted murderers were ever sentenced ;
and the impression is left that time was so valuable that, in their cases, the fbrnrality
was dispensed with. In passing sentence upon George, his honor assured the prisoner,
with becoming gravity, that he had had as fair a trial, and as ample means of defense,
as if he had belonged to the white race ; but the lightning speed with which the judge
hurried the doomed wretch out of the world throws a slight cloud on the sincerity of
his remarks. Indeed, it can not be fairly doubted that if the murderer had been a
white, he would have been granted thirty days for repentance ; but his honor probably
concluded that the Indian had no soul, and repentance was therefore improbable,
although he closed by requesting God to have mercy on the spiritual portion of the
culprit. Though the record is silent as to the other two convicted murderers, all three
were swung from the same gallows on the tenth of the same month. Large numbers
of people came from the mining camps, and a few, whom the news had reached out in'
the valley, came into town to witness the first legal execution , but the event was
marked with decorum, and nine out often acquiesced in the justice of the punishment.

JACKSON COUNTY. 367

Thiy was the last court held ia Jacksonville by Judge McFadden. Judge Deady's
friends had righted matters at Washington and procured his re-instatement, McFadden
being transferred to Washington territory.

On May 1, 1854, Judge Deady convened court, with Drew as marshal ; Kennedy,
sheriff; R. E. Stratton, United States prosecuting attorney; Stephen F. Chadwick
(subsequently secretary of state and ex-officio governor of Oregon), as territorial prose-
cuting attorney pro tern. ; and Jackson, clerk. Little of public interest transpired at
this term, except some futile presentments against several murderers who could not be
reached, the docket being mostly burdened with civil cases that seemed to multiply
from term to term. This year the ]Methodist church building was completed, by Pyle
& McDonough and David Linn. The frame had been removed to the present site,
which had been deeded gratuitously by James Cluggage to the conference. A new
subscription list was opened by Rev. T. F. Royal, successor to Rev. Joseph Smith, and
early in the fall the building was formally dedicated to the worship of God, by Rev.
J. H. Wilbur, presiding elder of the Umpqua district. While Protestant churches and
schools were being organized, it would have been strange, indeed, if so promising a
field had been overlooked by the Roman Catholic arch-bishop of Oregon. That zeal,
springing from the unswerving faith of the priesthood and children of the old church,
that fears neither the rigor of the Arctic winter, nor the deadly fevers of the torrid
zone, has already manifested itself here. No matter how small in numbers a Catholic
community may be, they are not long suffered to want for spiritual sustenance, and in
September, 1853, Rev. James Croke, a missionary of the arch-diocese of Oregon,
visited Jacksonville and celebrated the first mass in the house of Charles Casey. Look-
ing forward to the permanent establishment of a church — to be delayed, however,
several years — the reverend father obtained by deed of gift from James Cluggage
four of the most desirable lots in the town. A mission of several weeks, spent in
administering to the spiritual wants of his people, disclosed a strong, steadfast and
faithful Catholic society, and a third mission, in 1855, by Rev. James Cody, of Yreka,
found it increasing in fidelity and numbers by virtue of the salutarj^ admonitions and
counsel of the visiting fathers.

The second brick building erected in the town, a very substantial striu'tiire,
still standing on the corner of Main and Oregon streets, was finished in the fall of
1854 for Bruner Brothers, and a large number of dwellings were added to the last
growing town. On March 15, 1855, Warren Lodge, No. 10, A. F. &. X. M., was organ-
ized under a dispensation from the Grand Lodge of the territory. The lodge was weak
in numbers, but has grown to a membership of eighty-five, culled and sifted from
among the best material in the community. The first officers of the lodge were T.
McF. Pattou, W. M. ; Patrick Dunn, S. W.; A. M. Berry, J. W. ; A. B. Carter, Tieas-
urer; S. H. Taylor, Secretary; Lewis Graf, S. D. ; Jacob Solomon,,!. D. ; J. S. Burpee,^
tyler.

The serious and bloody war that bad Indians and worse whites precipitated on the
settlements of Rogue river valley this year did not retard i)erniauently the material
progress and prosperity of Jacksonville, nor did it diminish its population in any per-
ceptible degree. Many of the single men, "the boys," in the old time vernacular, and
manv also who were heads of families, not caring for the causes o\' the cnnHicl,

368 SOUTHERN OREGON-

shouldered their rifles in defense of their neighbors, abandoning profitable pursuits,
many of tliem to catch Indian bullets, and by bravery and determination pushed the
savages to unconditional j)eace. While they were in the field their places were filled
by panic-stricken settlers, who flocked to the towns for safety, and whose presence was
rather advantageous than otherwise. The community, especially the female portion,
were in a state of continual dread, fearing a night attack by the Indians, but the vol-
unteers were keeping the savages so busy in the field that no extra j^recaution against
surprise was thought necessary. This apparent neglect aroused much comment among
the women, and at last the excitement among them reached fever heat and forced them
into a ridiculous position. A timid old man named Holman, with more iinagination
than courage, averred that he saw an Indian skulking through the brush at the out-
skirts of town, but among the men his story was generally discredited. Playing on
the fears of the weaker sex, the old man induced them to call an indignation meeting
in the Methodist church, in order to arouse the men to the necessity of greater vigi-
lance. A chairwoman and secretary were elected, but before the meeting proceeded
to business, the men, to whom they looked for protection, were invited to step outside,
and informed that the meeting was strictly a woman's one. Poor old Holman was
hustled out with the rest, and this somewhat unkind treatment of the stronger sex
was received by them with cheers and laughter and not taken seriously to heart.
Meanwhile the ladies held a boisterous secret session. Resolutions denouncing apathy
and lack of vigilance were passed, and the meeting adjourned with a general feeling
that a well merited rebuke had been administered. That night some wags, lacking in
due respect for the ladies, hoisted a petticoat at half-mast on the flag pole in front of
the express office. The exposure of this piece of feminine apparel in so conspicuous
a way was like flaunting a red flag in the face of a Sijanish bull. It was not the red
encasement of the famous scold, Zantippe, but a modest looking garment, possibly
intended as a flag of truce ; but the act was misinterpreted as a declaration of war, and
it was met with the spirit of incensed and outraged femininity. Knots of angry women
gathered and discussed the situation, and two, whose ire knew no bounds, marched to
the foot of the pole, armed with Allen " pepper boxes" — a fire-arm most dangerous to
the holder — one with an ax, and fully determined to haul down the obnoxious garment.
Men gathered round them, some in bad temper, and a word or blow might have created
a bloody riot. One of the women demanded that the men haul down their colors, for-
getting that a petticoat is an orifiamme that always arouses man's chivalry. There
was no response. Again the demand was made, and a vigorous blow from her ax made
the pole quiver. At this juncture Dr. Brooks stepped forward and agreed to haul
down the hateful bit of apparel, and the women marched off" in triumph, firing their
little guns in the air, totally regardless of the feelings of the poor men whom they had
forced to an inglorious surrender. The end of the war was not reached, however, for
the next morning an immense pine tree on the bank of Dairy creek was adorned with
a male and a female effigy, the latter in a gorgeous silk dress, and occupying a sub-
ordinate position in mid air, taken to be indicative of man's superiority. This was a
master stroke of agressive strategy. There was no woman strong enough to chop the
tree down, none bold enough to climb it, and no woodman could be found who dared
bury his ax in the sacred trunk. The storms came, the winter winds whistled and

^ 'i%

S 1' ■ 'i!(f'

JACKSON COUNTY. 3G9

moaned through the leaves of the pine, and still the effigies swung and swayed to and
fro, as evidence that the weaker sex was fairly out-generaled.

The most consf)icuous mark of progress this year [1855] was the establishment of
the Table Bock Sentinel, by Messrs. T'Vault, Taylor and Blakely. True, the dimin-
utive sheet did not require a double cylinder lightning press, but it was the first news-
paper in Southern Oregon, and as a reflex of public opinion and a record of current
events it soon exerted considerable influence. The initial number appeared on Novem-
ber 24, 1855, and the few quarts of type that spread disjointed, yet most acceptable
news from the " States," and from the Willamette settlements have been replaced many
times by new fonts. The first number asserted itself as " Independent on all subjects
and devoted to the best interests of Southern Oregon," but subsequent issues developed
a tendency towards the dissemination of unqualified democracy and the bitterest hatred
of any thing inimical to the interests of that communion. Its editor, W. G. T'Yault,
was a man of ability and force of character, compensating for lack of culture by force
of will, uncompromising in his animosities, but fair to his friends, and the copies of his
little sheet on file show a very fair record of the times, if not always a temperate dis-
cussion of public questions, or the characters of public men. The venture of the
partners was unprofitable, and INIr. T'Vault subsequently became sole owner of the
paper, until 1858 when he associated W. J. Robinson with him, and the name was
changed to the Oregon Senfinel,yvhich. has been ever since retained. In October, 1859,
the Sentinel passed into the hands of O'Meara and Freanor, the latter retiring in less
than a year and the senior partner abandoning it in May, 18G1. Under their manage-
ment the political sentiments of the paj)er were intensely democratic, and at times so
radical that citizens loyal to the Union refused it patronage, and its financial affairs
became quite unsatisfactory both to its proprietor and its creditors. At this conjuncture
Henry Denlinger and Wm. M. Hand, both practical printers, took it, Hand retiring in
less than a year to enter the U. S. volunteer service, leaving Mr. Denlinger sole owner.
Mr. D. only retained it until July, 1864, when it passed into the hands of B. F. Dowell.
During the management of Denlinger the Sentinel was an uncompromising Union
paper. Its editor was Orange Jacobs, afterwards chief justice of Washington territory,
and its editorials were marked with dignity and strength, always sustaining the govern-
ment. The proprietorship of Mr. Dowell continued for more than fourteen years, during
which time it was under the editorial management of J. M. Sutton, D. M. C. Gault,
Wm. M. Turner, E. B. Watson, Harrison Kelley and Ed. F. Lewis, who at various
periods conducted it and always in the interest of the Republican party. It seems that
the Sentinel, although fairly supported and patronized, was never a profitiible invest-
ment, and in 1878, Frank Krause became its proprietor, afterwards associating Mr.
Turner with him, who retained his interest about two years and then left Mr. K. sole
owner. It is usual to expect a community with the ability to support one newspaper to
be able to support two, and in 1857, ^Messrs. Beggs and Burns started the Jachonnllc
Herald which was short-lived and its plant experienced more changes of ownership
than did the Sentinel. In 1861 O'Meara and Pomeroy took the outfit of the Herald
and started theSouthern Oregon Gazette, the first number appearing on August 14. Tlie
Gazette was inten.sely democratic ; indeed, so bitter and .shamelessly disloyal to the
government that in a few months it was refused the privilege of the V. S. mails and

370 bOUTHERN OREGON.

died a violent death, mourned by only a few to whom its ultra views were tasteful.
On the ruins of the Gazette the Civilian was built by D. Wm. Douthitt, in May, 1862.
The politics of this paper were also democratic, but of a milder type than its prede-
cessor, but sufficiently intense to make it unpopular. Its proprietor also lacked popu-
larity and discernment as a journalist, and his venture died a quiet death after a
troubled existence of a few months. In 1863 T'Vault took possession of the Civilian
office and under his management the Intelligencer was ushered into the world, but there
seemed a cruel fatality in the type, for it, too, expired in less than a twelvemonth.
Then P. J. Malone threw himself into the breach and in January, 1865, the Oregon
Reporter arose from the cold i-emains of the Intelligencer, and with the end of
volume one Malone retired, having had no better success than those who preceded him.
Frank E. Stuart succeeded Malone in the Reporter until 1867, wlien Mr. W. W.Fidler,
a young man of good ability and honest purpose, was associated with him and the name
was changed to the Southern Oregon Press. But a few mouths passed before the Press
collapsed, and the material was used by the democratic committee in the publication of
the Reveille, but auspicious as the name was, it failed to bring to the paper the neces-
sary support. The voluntary contribution system was a failure and the "bleeding"
process tried on candidates for office was too depleting, voted a nuisance, and tlie
Reveille soon ceased to sound the rallying blast. On its ruins arose the Democratic
News, in 1869, published and edited by P. D. Hull and Chas. Nickell. Just when the
success of the News seemed assured its material was destroyed in the disastrous fire of
'72. Its founders, however, were plucky, both practical printers, the democracy were
in power in the county and their patronage warranted an effi^rt to re-establish tlie
paper. Means were soon raised, a new outfit procured and the Democratic Times was
started by Nickell. Good management and county i^atronage brought it prosperity
and it is likely to live as long a life as that of all its joredecessors put together.

In the summer of 1860 the wagon road from Waldo, in Josephine county, to Cres-
cent City, Cal., was opened for travel, and prices in Jacksonville were materially
reduced, owing to the greater facilities for transportation. A new era now dawned on
the thriving community; no longer the gay and tinsel trappings and the broad "sombrero"
of the semi-civilized Mexican packer were seen on the streets. No more his sonorous
voice was heard cursing or cheering his heavy-laden mules ; he slid from sight and
passed away as something decidedly un-American. It was the old giving way to the
new, as it is ever doing in this restless, ever changing world of ours, and the long trains
of patient beasts of burden that had, for ten long years, packed sujjplies over slippery
and tortuous paths were displaced by the ponderous freight wagons that in turn were
to yield to the grander achievements of progress and advancing civilization. The
"greasy packer " no longer came whooping into town with his independent "devil may
care" swagger, but either adopted the more genteel and luxurious calling of a team-
ster or was quietly absorbed in other })ursuits and so lost to sight. A semi-weekly line
of stages to Crescent City was at once put on by Cluggage and Drum, and a steady
flow of travel set in which was of great material benefit. The mode of transportation
proved very convenient. Merchandise that could not be packed on mules was now
transported with ease, and an immense annual saving made in freights, and for a num-
ber of years the new and shorter means of ingress and egress was quite popular. This

JACKSON COUNTY. 371

year an equally important avenue of travel was opened. The California stage company
had obtained a contract for carrying the U. S. mails from Sacramento to rortland and
on the first of July, put on a daily line of comfortable foui'-horse stages between those
points, passing through Jacksonville. The schedule time between Sacramento and Port-
land was thirteen days, but their vehicles were generally crowded and many a weary
passenger was glad to try the hospitality of Jacksonville's hotels, poor as they were

The history of the Catholic church in Jacksonville is that of an active, untiring,
zealous religious organization. Those faithful to the Roman Catholic belief had been
visited regularly by missionaries every year since the first visit of Rev. Father Croke,
in 1853. His Grace, Archbishop Blanchet, of Oregon City, had himself come over
the rough mountains to administer to the spiritual wants of an isolated people, and in
October, 1858, the occasion of his first visit, a contract was closed with Berry & Kerr
for the erection of a church on the lot donated by James Cluggage. In 1859, the edi-
fice was nearly finished, and in 1800, services were held in it by His Grace, the Arch-
bishop, who then visited Jacksonville for the second and last time. In November,
1861. Rev. J. F. Fierens was appointed first parish j'riest for Southei*n Oregon, having
his residence at Jacksonville. On the nineteenth of November, 18(33, Rev. F. X.
Blanchet, nephew of the archbishop, was appointed second pastor of St. Joseph's
church, Father Fierens having been made vicar-general of the diocese. Father
Blanchet still continues an acceptable ministry, and during the many years of his ser-
vice has largely augmented and firmly consolidated his congregation. The influelice
of this religious organization was soon increased by the establishment of St. Mary's
academy by the Catholic sisterhood, and its conduct has been without stain or blemish.
During the dreadful pestilence that raged in 1868-9, the priests and ladies of St.
Mary's were brave and untiring in their ministrations among the sick and dying —
Catholic and non-Catholic alike — and did much to break down the prejudices of those
who differed from them. "St. Joseph's" is now too small for its congregation, but is
still the most imposing edifice belonging to the Roman Catholics of Southern Oregon.

The public school of Jacksonville is one of the most flourishing in the state,
advancing from a mere infant school to one with over two hundred pupils, in which all
the education necessary for. an active business life may be acquired ; but it has not been
without its struggles. In 1867, it was found that the school accomodations were
wholly inadequate to the wants of the district, and a movement was made to puix-hase
a suitable lot on which to erect a building sufficiently large to accomodate the fast-
increasing scholars. The movement met with bitter opposition from citizens whose
own education was deficient, but who, through good fortune, had taxable property, and
they stoutly resisted an extraordinary drain on their purses. The friends of 2)rogress
won and the beautiful knoll iust east of town on which the Poole residence was situated w:us
purchased. A tax for. the building was next levied, and the opponents of the measure had
become so demoralized that scarcely a di-ssenting vote was c;ist. For several years the
affairs of the school were in a most unsatisfactory state. Unfortunately, partisan \nA\-
tics divided men on almost every issue, and they, almost imperceptibly, crept into
school matters, and greatly impeded the efforts of tiiose who sought to buihl up a first-
class school. Time and experience pointed out this profitless folly; efficiency, rather
than iiolitieal leaning, was exacted by a (-(tnimunity willing to pay liigli for teachers'

372 SOUTHERN OREGON.

services, and results have proved the wisdom of such a course. To-day, Jacksonville
cheerfully votes whatever tax is asked by its school directors, and boasts a school second
to none of its class in the whole state, and noted for its wholesome discipline and schol-
arship wherever its fortunate pupils cast their lot. Four teachers are now employed,
and the annual expenses of the school are nearly five thousand dollars

Late in the fall of 1868, a case of what was pronounced "chicken-pox" by the
physicians, was discovered among some half-breed Indians near town. There was
no alarm until it was found to be small-pox of the confluent and most malignant type.
Then, efforts were made to repair the error of the physicians, but it was, unfortunately,
too late. The first patient died, but the attendants had mixed promiscuously among
the people of the town, and the seeds of the terrible disease were effectually planted.
A death soon occurred in town, and the burial, although taking place at night, was con-
ducted so blunderingly that several other cases appeared in the immediate neighbor-
hood. The town was at once quarantined, and people from the country forbidden to
communicate with it, in order to prevent the S23read of the disease. School, religious
gatherings and all other public assemblages were discontinued. A pest-house was
established south of town, to which nearly all jiatients were removed and who received
every possible attention and care. Notwithstanding the most rigorous quarantine, the
disease was taken to the country, where two deaths occurred, but, fortunately, it was
confined to one locality, only. In spite of all precautions, the disease spread rapidly>
and those who had been vaccinated seemed terror-stricken. Ministers fled in affright
from paths of duty, but in the darkest hours the Catholic priest, who himself liad experi-
enced the disease, together with the Catholic sisterhood, rendered valuable assistance.
The contagion was not confined to any particular class. The widow of John Love, a
lady of refinement and culture, was attacked and, with her youngest child, was carried
away. Her mother and the rest of her children were in the country and dared not
approach her, and, when all was over, the unsightly corpse — all that remained of human
beauty — was borne to the cemetery in a rough lumber-wagon, without a single follower.
Col. T'Vault, who had filled a prominent place in the history of Southern Oregon, was.
buried at midnight by the priest who attended his dying moments, and the nea'r&st"
friends of the old man did not dare to join the silent and ghastly cortege. George
Funk, one of the leading citizens of the town and a man of fine social qualities, died
in a lonely cabin south of town, cared for by the Odd Fellows, and was buried in its
vicinity until time justified his removal. There was a theory prevalent that the creation
of smoke would purify the air and mitigate, or perhaps stay, the pestilence. Large
fires of pitch-pine were built in the streets, around which gathered anxiolts groups by
day and by night, waiting to hear who the next victim would be, and discussing the
situation. This hygienic measure was fruitless; the clouds of smoke that clung to the
hapless town by day, and the ruddy glare that lit up its deserted streets by night, only
added gloom and brought neither hope nor relief. For over two months this state of
things existed, and gradually the disease wore out the material that was most suscepti-
ble of attack, and finally disappeared. Some of the patients recovered, notably those
who had been vaccinated; but the number of deaths exceeded forty, which, in a small
community, left a perceptible vacuum.

.. -„^»;:<

m

JACKSON COUNTY. 373

111 the eusuing summer (18G9) the town liad a novel expericnee. One afternoon
in Julj^ a cloud, not much larger than a man's hand, hung ahove the western horizon.
It attracted little notice, but exj^anded gradually until it was apparent that some extra-
ordinary disturbance was imminent. Suddenly the cloud burst, about a mile and
a-half west of town, and an immense volume of water was precij^itated into Jackson
and Daisy creeks. In a few moments, those streams, comparatively dry at that season,
were swollen into dangerous and imj^assable torrents. Mining apparatus and stumps
were torn up and swept down stream like reeds, cattle were borne down on the resist-
less flood, and the streets of the town could have floated a canoe. Previous to the cloud-
burst, the air had been unusually quiet, but the rush of air to fill up the vacuum
amounted to a genuine hurricane. Fortunately, its greatest force was spent a short
distance south of town, where the standing pines were mown off about thirty feet above
the ground and left standing like gigantic stubble — a memento of the awful force of
the elements. An immense amount of drift from the mines was washed down Jackson
creek, destroying and marring several comfortable homes, and leaving traces of devas-
tation that may last for a generation to come. Strangely enough, the storm and its
effects were confined within a narrow limit of little over a quarter of a mile in width,
and were scarcely felt beyond the corporation. Jacksonville survived pestilence and
flood, but another calamity was in store for it. In the spring of 1873, a fire broke
out in the Union hotel, owned by Louis Home, and within an hour seventy-five thou-
sand dollars worth of property was destroyed. The recuperative power of Jacksonville
enterprise soon rebuilt the vacant ground with more sightly buildings, and what was a
.severe private loss was a public gain. The succeeding year another disastrous confla-
gration took place on the main business block and extended to the El Dorado corner,
wiping out many of the ancient landmarks. Again,- the energy of Jacksonville's citi-
zens repaired the losses, and on the El Dorado corner was reared a handsome brick
structure by the Masonic fraternity, and again private purses were made to suffer for
the benefit of the town. In 1881, the Presbyterians erected a very handsome edifice
for worship at a cost of nearly '|4,000, the heaviest contributors being C. C. Beekman
and William Hoffman. The church is the most ornate and handsome in Southern
Oregon, with stained-glass windows, and a seating capacity of two hundred and fifty —
a credit to those who so generously gave towards its erection. But the crowning glory of
Jacksonville is its magnificent court house, erected in 1883-4, at a cost of about
$32,000, and after a strenuous opposition from rival i)oints and from citizens. It is the
cheapest building ever erected in Oregon, and "the bill of costs," never increased by a
single dollar from the amount stipulated in the contract, has disappointed the most bit-
ter opponents of the building, who predicted that it would ultimately foot up a hundred
thousand dollars. Jacksonville may grow no larger, at least until poi)ulation becomes
more congested in the rich valley in which it is situated, but it will long remain one of
most interesting towns of Southern Oregon. It is a heritage from the adventurous men
who carved out homes far beyond the utmost limits of civilized life ; a town that has
passed into the highest state of civilization, having no irai)ress of the pioneers who
founded it, save their chivalry and general unselfishness. Peopled largely by citizens
imbued with broad and liljeral views, it has always deservedly been recognized as
one of the most hospitable towns in Oregon, and it is to be hoped its charactci- in tliis
latter respect may never change.

CHAPTER XLIV.

OTHER IMPORTANT POINTS.

PhcEiix-Its Rise and Fortunss-Medford -Central Point -Little Butte-Eagle Point— Gold Hill— Big- Bar-
Rock Point— Grant's Pass.

Phcenix. — This village, nicknamed Gasburg, was settled very early in the history
of the Eogue river country. Samuel Culver, in the fall of 1851 — he being one of the
very first pioneers — took uj) a donation claim where the town now stands, and has ever
since continued to occupy it. In the following summer his brother Hiram came,
bringing the families of both, and took up a claim adjoining Samuel's, and like the
other, of 640 acres of land. In the same year (1852) came Samuel D. Van Dyke,
Matthew Little, E. E. Gore and O. D. Hoxie, and settled near by. In 1853 the settle-
ment was augmented by James Sterling, John and H. M. Coleman, George T. Viuing,
Gridley, C. S. Sergeant, James P. Burns, W. Lynch, Milton Lindley, Mathes, Harry
and Harvey Oatman and Henry Church. In 1854 the town of Pha?nix was laid out
on the land of Mr. Samuel Culver. In 1855 S. M. Wait built the large flouring mill
on land donated by Mr. Culver. Subsequently Mr. Wait went to Washington terri-
tory and founded the town of Waitsburg, turning over his Phoenix mill property to E.
D. Foudray, who im^^roved it Very much, building a new structure and digging a
race. In 1859 this mill was sold in turn to William Hess; in 1862 to James T. Glenn;
in 1864 to E. D. Foudray ; iu 1871 to G. W. Wimer ; iu 1876 to the Grangers ; in
1878 to P. W. Olwell, who paid $10,000 therefor, and who still owns and operates it.
Harvey Oatman built the first hotel in Phoenix, and Henry Church and Harrison B.
Oatman were the first merchants, doing business under the name of Church & Oatman.
Culver & Davenport, and Wait & McManus were also engaged in mercantile
affairs in early years. Judge Orange Jacobs, of subsequent celebrity, was a teacher of
youth for the early settlers of Phoenix, and also practiced his profession of the law for
a time in the same locality. In 1858 Phoenix was spoken of as improving rapidly.
The water power of the town was considered of great advantage, and the place was said
to bid fair to become a rival to Jacksonville. In February, 1861, the placer diggings
were discovered near town, the gravel extending a considerable distance along the base
of the hills. These diggings have realized a very considerable amount of money.
From the Coleman and Reams mines about $170,000 is reported as the product, and
some gold is yet being extracted. In 1864 Phoenix had reached its climacteric, and all
was prosperity. The town was the home of lawyers, doctors, artisans and merchants.
Business was very brisk, and the mines were producing well. But this era of pros-
perity had an end sometime along in the last of the sixties ; and in 1874 a stray
traveler wrote of the place: " Decay, desolation, death are inscribed on her walls;
dusty in summer and muddy in winter, it is the abode of hard times." But the dys-

JACKSON COIjNTY. 375

peptical fellow clieered uj) somewhat, and going into details, added: " It contains two
gristmills, a store, tavern, school, and a Good Templars' organization. The peojile are
industrions, temperate, and always ready for a dance or a religious revival." Again
the fortunes of Phoenix were to see a change, and the town, like its namesake, rising
from its ashes, was to far exceed its former prosperity. The advent of the railroad
had a most salutary effect upon it, and j^robably a lasting one. The business and
manufacturing houses of the jilace at present are four dry-goods stores, one hardware
store, three blacksmith shops, a shoe shop, three hotels and eating houses, two flouring
mills, one livery stable and four saloons. There is also a church, begun by the Meth-
odists and Presbyterians jointly, in 1862, but afterwards owned exclusively by the
latter. The number of inhabitants is thought to be 300. The chief points of interest
about Phoenix are the grave (now empty) of Captain Stewart, U. S. A., the " Forty-
nine " mines, Camp Baker, and S. Culver's residence. The curious visitor would do
well to inspect the latter remarkable building, a relic as it is of times when Indians'
assaults had to be provided against. Camp Baker's site (used in the time of the
rebellion for garrison purposes) is now grown uj? with underbrush, and its two dozen
log buildings have rotted and fallen down.

Medfoed, the newest town in Southern Oregon, is an irajiortant station of the
railway, and is regarded as likely to become a very imj^ortant shipping point. Its
position is in the center of Bear creek valley, about four miles east of Jacksonville,
and about midway between Phoenix and Central Point. It is the shipping point for
a large section, including Jacksonville, a portion of the Applegate country, and a good
part of the surrounding valley. In the winter of 1883-4 about forty wooden build-
ings were put uj), and the foundations of a brick building of considerable size were
laid. A livery stable, hotel, several stores and offices of a few professional men con-
stitute a portion of the town.

Central Point also is situated upon Bear creek, and is in the northeastern
corner of township 37 south, i-ange 2 west. Its position is very nearly in the center
of the inhabited part of Jackson county, from whence its citizens argue its claims for
the county seat. Its name is derived from the fact of its central location. It is six
miles from Jacksonville in a direct line, and is a station of the Oregon and California
railway. The laud upon which the little village stands was entered by the Magruder
brothers in 1868, at which time they set up a store of general merchandise, and in
1872 a post office was established here, bearing the name of the place. Central Point
now consists of s even dwellings, a school house, store, blacksmith shop, wagon shop,
hotel, post office, feed stable, and saloon. Some of the very earliest pioneers located
near this i^lace, among them Judge Skinner, Mr. Hopwood, Chesley Gray, and others.
The most extensive farming operations known in the valley have been carried on
near by. North and northeast of Central Point lies a section of country which com-
prises the " Big Sticky," Little Butte, Antelope, and Dry creek valleys, and a portion
of the valley of Eogue river. It is an agricultural section exclusively, excepting as
to the upper portions of the valleys, which are devoted to grazing. The population is
scattering; two small villages with jiost offices, have only l)een built up. Mining there
is none, and lumbering is carried on but to a limited extent. The first named section,
called Big Stickv or "the desert," lies on the eastern side of I'ear creek, beginning a

376 SOUTHERN OREGON.

short distance below Phoenix, and continuing to Rogue rivei-. Its length is perhaps
twelve miles, average breadth, three. Its characteristics are a soil of adobe, clay of
wonderfully tenacious nature. It is difficult of tillage, but is productive of grain, and
very durable in fertility. In early years some noted pioneers settled upon this tract,
among them Alexander French, Asa Parker, John E. and Charles Seyforth, John and
Nicholas Cook, and the unfortunate Major James Lupton. At a later period Messrs.
French and Parker moved to the Atlantic states, John Cook died on this coast a few
years since, and N. Cook is now a merchant at Willow Sjirings, Jackson county.
Lupton's place was that now owned by Martin Peterson, and called Mound Ranch, on
account of the isolated hill standing thereupon.

Eagle Point, located on Little Butte creek, about three miles from Rogue river,
is a small village, at present containing two hotels, two stores, two blacksmith shops,
a flour mill, boot and shoe shop, carpenter shop, church, school house, saloon, and jiost
office. The place was named by John Mathews, in honor of the national bird. The
post office was established in 1872, Andrew McNeil being postmaster. This gentleman
retained the position until 1877, when it devolved upon F. B. Inlow, who yet holds it.
The site of Eagle Point was taken up in 1853, by Abram Robinson, George Ludlow,
and Freeman Smith. Mr. Robinson is now in Boise, Idaho, Mr. Ludlow died in Iowa,
several years since, and Mr. Smith returned to the east. These individuals took up
800 acres as joint property, for the purpose of gardening and raising live stock for the
market of Jacksonville, sixteen miles distant. Smith sold to James J. Fryer, in
August, 1853. On the breaking out of the Indian war the partners had to take refuge
elsewhere, and upon the conclusion of hostilities only Mr. Fryer returned to the place.
That gentleman, with A. J. Daley, E. Emory and Peter Simon, are now the proprietors
of Eagle Point. John Mathews settled near by, in 1854, and in the same year Fred-
erick Westgate, N. A. Young and Little, opened a trading jwst a mile below town,
and conducted it for several years. T. Cameron built the first dwelling in Eagle Point
in the fall of 1853, a small log house which still stands. The Eagle Point flour mill
was built in 1872, by John Daley and E. Emory. It contains two run of buhr-stones,
capacity forty barrels of flour per day ; motive power a turbine wheel, with a fall of
seventeen feet. A. J. Daley now owns the mill.

Little Butte Creek was so named at a very early day because the first miners
and packers supposed the stream rose at the foot of Mount Pitt, the snowy butte.
They were mistaken, inasmuch as the head of the stream is far south of that mountain.
It flows a generally northwest course, and empties into Rogue river nearly opposite
Upper Table Rock. The stream is easily fordable most of the year, has a bed ten or
fifteen yards wide, and furnishes fine water power. Its valley is quite an agricultural
region, has a fertile soil and is well watered. It contains one other village besides
Eagle Point, namely, Brownsborough, seven or eight miles south of east, and lying in
the northern part of township 36, range 1 east. This place was named in honor of
H. R. Brown, who came in 1853, and settled permanently, being the first in that vicin-
ity. There is a post office at Brownsborough, a store (owned now by Mr. Brown, but
built by Bilger brothers), and five dwellings. In 1855 or earlier, John McDaniel and
sons built a saw mill on Little Butte creek, and sawed the lumber of which the most
of Jacksonville was constructed. In 1856 or 1857 the mill was removed to give place

30
m
en

>
en

JACKSON COUNTY. 377

to a grist mill. Pleasant Stone and Hathaway are supposed to have been the first
settlers on Little Butte, as they arrived there in the stormy winter of 1852-3. Soon
after came Tobias Linkwiler, Levi Tinkham, N. A. Young, Judge Silas J. Day, and
Ed. Day, Robert Cameron, Champion Collier, William Collier, John Marshall, and
some few previously mentioned. By the time of the last Indian war the settlement
had become largely increased, so much so that quite a large military company —
Alcorn's — was recruited among the hardy settlers of Butte. At that time all the people
were "forted up." Above Brownsborough, on the north fork of the creek is a some-
what remarkable soda spring, which was discovered by John Mathews in 1865. Taking
a land claim there^ Mr. Mathews sold to James T. Glenn. Mr. Simon McCallister now
owns the location. The water is said to possess wonderful healing properties, and the
place is regarded as a good site for a sanitarium, a Saratoga, as it were, for the invalids
of the coast. The north and south forks. Lick, Salt, Osborne, Dead Indian, Antelope,
and Dry creeks are tributaries of Little Butte, and are of some importance by reason
of the farming and timber land upon their banks, and the grazing to be had. The
, land is generally mountainous, the soil rather poor, excepting smill tracts of bottom
land. The timber is mainly oak, fir, pine, yew, madrone and cedar, and undergrowth
of hazel, juniper, dogwood, greasewood and service berry abounds.

AViLLow Springs, a point of some celebrity, was one of the very first settlements
made in Jackson county. N. C. Dean settled here in 1851, taking up a donation
claim, as previously stated. A little later John Kennedy joined Mr. Dean, and the
two kept for several years a wayside hostelry. Kennedy was finally killed by the
Indians at Hungry Hill, and his partner, too, has gone the way of all flesh. Near the
springs pay dirt was struck in 1852, and successfully worked for many years, and, in
fact, to the present date. At this place Mr. Nicholas Cook has a store of general mer-
chandise, and keeps the post-office. Not far away is Lane's creek, a mining locality
from which considerable gold has been taken, but chiefly memorable for a nuirder
committed upon its banks. The victim was an old man naned Lane, from whum the
stream derives its name.

Kane's Creek, called also T'Yault's creek, was named for Dr. Kane, who settled
near by, in 1853. The other name is that of the once celebrated colonel and editor,
T'A'ault, who also abode in the vicinity, being the first to arrive. Dr. G. H. Ambrose,
Indian agent, came next after the colonel, and John Swiuden, now living in the
vicinity, came in July, 1853, being the oldest resident of the locality. The stream is
small, but is of some importance from its placer diggings, which, like those of all the
neighborhood, cannot be made profitable because of lack of water. The farming lands
upon the creek are contracted in area, whereby agricultural operations are slight.

The course of Rogue river, previously nearly south, turns sharply to the west on
reaching Upper Table Rock and the mouth of Little Butte creek. It pursue.^ this
direction for the remainder of its course through Jackson county, and as fiir as the
confluence of the Applegate, in Josephine county. From the Upper Table Rock the
river flows by a constant succession of localities made memorable by important occur-
rences in the past. Here are the Table Rocks, Bybee's (before styled Hailey's) ferry,
Fort Lane, Big Bar— famed for having been so early a mining locality— Gold Hill,
Foot's creek, the Dardanelles, Bloody Run, Evans' creek, Evans' ferry, Jewitt's ferry.

378 SOUTHERN OREGON.

Vanuoy's ferry, Long's feri-y, and uumerous other celebrated historical localities. In
the four townships through which the river flows in its course from UpjJer Table Rock
to the border of Josejihine county, have occurred a very great proportion of the histor-
ical incidents of Southern Oregon. In the lapse of a third of a century, nearly every
square mile of its surface has become historical ground. Possibly no similar area in
the United States has ever been the scene of so many and such varied occurrences, and
certainly there is not on the Pacific coast a tract which, in that respect, bears an equal
comjDarison.

About the Table Rocks lived the powerful and warlike Rogue River tribe
of Indians. Their war chief's name yet endures in the familiar designation of Sam's
valley. In the beautiful little vale behind the Table Rocks, he and his people dwelt ;
and in that neighborhood they waged battle against the whites. They were defeated
by Major Kearney on the west bank of the river, some miles above the rocks ; they
fought the bravest men of Jacksonville at their rancheria further down the river ; they
we]-e beaten by Lane in 1853; Fort Lane was built to awe and protect them in the fol-
lowing year, this fortification standing on the south side of the river, just east from
Gold Hill, and not far below the mouth of Bear creek. Here the military remained
until the summer of 1856, in which year the band of Chief Sara left their old home,
escorted by 100 troops, and traveled into the, to them, unknown country west of the
Willamette, whence the most of them have, ere this, gone over to the silent majority.
A few straying members of the band came back for a visit at a later date, as the people
of Sam's and neighboring valleys still remember. But their mission was peaceful ;
and soon the country knew them no more forever.

Gold Hill is most peculiar in its character. From it was taken, as already
explained, a remarkable deposit of gold. The hill, so-called, is perhaps 800 feet high,
is about twelve miles from Jacksonville and borders the river, which forms two sides of
a ti'iangle, the hill standing in the center. There are many indications that Gold Hill
was an enormous slide which broke off from the mountains to the west and fell in the
valley below. The valley separating the two elevations is narrow, and through it flows
the river, which is compelled to make a sharp turn because of the hill interposed in its
course. Some persons have concluded from an examination of the region about Gold
Hill that the supj^osed slide caused a great lake above by damming up the waters and
causing them to overflow the Bear creek and connected valleys, whereby the various
gravels and sedimentary rocks which underlie so large a part of the region were formed.
They instance the beach marks on Table Rock, the sand cliffs at the head and along
the side of the valley, and the worn and drifted appearance of gravel and boulders on
"Big Sticky." Whatever may have been its origin, it is a very singular eminence and
contains curious mineral substances worthy of examination by scientific men. Iron ore
is found there in masses, and a company was formed to work the ore, but nothing came
of it. About the base of Gold Hill lies the tract of the great railway line which is to
connect California with the Pacific Northwest. Along the steep granite sides of the
hill the engineers laboured for months, blasting and excavating with tireless will the
adamant bulwarks opposing them. The passage of Rogue river and the cuts about
Gold Hill are considered vei'y remarkable works of engineering skill and perseverence
and well repay an examination.

JACKSON COUNTY. 979

At Big Bar, ju«t by Gold Hill, much mining was done in the early years. At
one time in 1852 a rush of miners took place to the bar, where not less than 200 men
were prospecting. Generally speaking their work was unprofitable. On several occa-
sions companies have been formed and much money expended in endeavoring to dam
the river and turn its waters across the bar, whereby its channel may be left dry and
the sands worked ; but thus far without success. It was considered a great mining
enterprise when, in the summer of 1860, a dam was thrown across the river, but the
scheme proved abortive, little gold being found in the gravel. In 1875 the Big Bar
and Rogue River Mining Company, of Portland, incorporated with a capital of ■'|20,000,
for the purpose of " turning the river and working the bar, and improving the naviga-
tion of the Rogue river." This scheme was likewise unsuccessful.

The Dardanelles, in the neighborhood of Gold Hill, is at present known as the
T'Vault place. Here dwelt the colonel and here were gathered the white settlers
to seek protection from the Indians in time of war. Near by was Doctor G. H.
Ambrose's donation claim. In 1860, the Dardanelles sprang into new life and activity
through the establishment of Klippel, McLaughlin and Williams' steam quartz mill to
reduce the rock from the newly discovered Gold Hill mine. A hotel, the Adams House,
was put up and other improvements were inaugurated. But soon the " boom " ceased,
the mine was exhausted, and the Dardanelles sunk into its previous obscurity.

Foot's Creek was prospected in early times by O. G. Foot, a miner, Avho dis-
covered rich gravel in its bed. From him the stream derived its name. It became
celebrated as a mining region in 1852, and ever since has yielded considerably. Lack
of water has prevented the larger bodies of gravel from being worked, and it is judged
that the introduction of large hydraulic streams would pay very largely and contin-
uously. The claims owned by G. W. Lance and S. Duffy are the most extensive.
Near the Birdsey place, which is on the south side of the river, stood the army ho.s-
pital for the sick and wounded soldiers of the war of 1855-6. The building used was
a double house of hewed logs, which still stands and is in use as a stable. Afterwards
the medical department moved to Jacksonville.

Rock Poixt stands upon the north bank of the river, in township 'SO, range 8
west. It is characterized by an excellent location, being upon the railroad, of which
it is an important station, and in the geographical center of the two counties of Jack-
son and Josephine. Its name, like those of many other localities, is self-explanatory,
and was given, probably in 1852, by packers or miners. The post-office was estab-
lished in in 1857 or 1858, with J. B. White as postmaster, the same being the original
town proprietor. L. J. White built the first hotel, in 1864, and two years previously
Abram Schulz had put up a blacksmith shop. Haymond ct White dealt in merchan-
dise, beginning in 1868, and the latter partner sold to the Magruder brother^, II. H.
and Constantine, in 1874, so remaining until now. Rock Point now contains a store,
hotel, livery stable, blacksmith shop, saloon, post-office, school house and telegraph
office. Above the town a short distance is the railroad bridge across Rogue river, a
very considerable structure over 1,000 feet long, substantial and durable, one of the
succession of extensive engineering works by wliicli the iron causeway attains the
vallev.

380 SOUTHERN OEEGON.

WooDViLLE, through which passes the railway, at present of but little note, is located
at the mouth of Evans' creek, which terminates here. The creek is a considerable
stream, upon whose banks for many years miners have labored, and the horny-handed
agriculturist is now settling. The stream was named for Davis Evans, nicknamed
Coyote, proprietor of the well-known ferry. Prospected for gold before the war of 1853,
it was then abandoned by whites from fear of the Indians, and on the final settlement
of these difficulties in 1856, the Chinese, then coming in large numbers, took possession
of the ground, and mined successfully. They were driven out by whites when their
good fortune became known, and the latter took the claims and made good wages.
Various other mineral substances of value are found upon this stream. Quicksilver
was mined in 1874, and quite an excitement followed. Many locations were made and
an assay office was established in Woodville. A salt spring exists there, and Fuller
& Company erected apparatus, in 1864, to evaporate the water and to purify the con-
tained salt. One of the affluents of Evans' creek, called Pleasant creek from the name
of Pleasant Armstrong, who was killed in Lane's battle with the Indians on a tributary
of Evans' creek, in August, 1853, afforded pay-dirt to quite a number of miners about
the year 1860. Sardine creek enters the Rogue river on the north side, just above
Rock Point, and it, too, has a history as a mining region. Its mines were discovered in
1853 by a prospector living with A. J. Kane, near the Dardanelles. The story of its
riches went forth, and within a few days a large number of miners were on the ground.
The peculiar name, says Mr. Kane, is derived from the fact that sardines formed a pai-t
of the provisions of the first arrivals. The banks of the stream were worked extensively,
afterward, by whites and Chinese, between whom the usual one-sided antagonism existed.

Grant's Pass. — The westernmost village of Jackson county, has long been known
as Grant's Pass. At first, known only as a station of the O. & C. stage company
where the horses were changed, and tired passengers consoled themselves with an
excellent meal, the place took on a new phase with the advent of the railway, and
became very quickly the liveliest town of its size in Oregon. Speculative men had
lots surveyed aud forced them on the market, and houses went up thereon with magical
quickness. Grant's Pass is a typical railway town, its interests centering in the
arrival and departure of trains, the extension of the road, and the patronage of the
train-men, more than aught else. It possesses hotels, saloons, shops of various sorts,
and j5erhaps two scores of dwelling houses where, six months since, hardly a building
was in sight. But its principal building is the railway depot, a structure similar in
design and construction to those adopted by the 0. & C. R. R. Company for all its
stations, and built with the highest regard to convenience and beauty. Consequently,
the elegant depots of the various railway stations in Southern Oregon, are thus far the
architectural culmination of the villages in which they are located. At Grant's Pass the
construction and repair shops of the railway are to be permantly situated.

Tallent is the modern name of the locality formerly called Wagner creek, from
Wagner, the earliest settler. It is a station of the Oregon and California railway, and
a place of some importance in the history of Jackson county, inasmuch as near by was
formed in very early times a well known settlement. In the time of the Indian war of
1853 the Wagner house was a resort of the surrounding settlers who came there for
protection from the savages. It is now a thriving and busy locality.

ii^icvvr l: -vv^V' '

CHAPTER XLV.

OREGON AND CALIFORNIA RAILROAD.

Early Efforts to Construct a Road- Oregon and California Grant— Line built to Roseburg- Difficulties of the Com-
pany—Extension of the Line Southward— Difficulty of Construction— Triumph of Engineering Skill— Its Im-
portance to Southern Oregon— Character of its Management.

The construction of a line of railroad to pass up the Willamette valley and enter
California by way of the Unipqua and Rogue River valleys, engaged the attention of
enterprising citizens of Oregon, while yet it was a territory.. Several railroad charters
were granted by various legislatures, but none of these projects ever assumed a more
tangible shape. In the winter of 1865-6 Simon G. Elliott j^rocured from congress a
land grant subsidy for such a line, and immediately came to Oregon and incorporated
a company to enjoy its benefits. The managers of the enterprise were Ben Holladay
& Co. Bonds were sold at fifty per cent., and money enough realized to construct a
line 200 miles south from Portland, terminating at Roseburg in 1872. The advent of
this road into Southern Oregon, although it penetrated only to the center of Douglas
county, was an event of supreme importance. The whole region brought within the
circle of its influence was invigorated and entered upon a season of unwonted pros-
perity. For nearly ten years Roseburg remained the southern terminus, and reajjcd
all the benefit to be derived from such a desirable situation. Much litigation had
attended the operations of Beu Holladay, and the company soon became bankrui)t.
The German bondholders decided to take possession of the property, and sent Henry
Villard here to look after their interests. Out of confusion he brought order, and
transformed a bankrupt railroad into a paying enterprise. In 1882 an agreement was
entered into with the managers of the Centralj^Pacific to extend that road northward
from the Sacramento valley, and work was then begun at Roseburg to continue this
line southward to meet the Central Pacific at the Oregon and California line. This
work, as well as the management of the whole road, is under the direct supervision of
Mr. R. Koehler, vice-president of the company. Mr. Koehler brings to bear in the
handling of the road an experience and judgment that are extremely valuable. He is
an aflflible, courteous gentleman, enjoying the confidence and respect of the owners of
the road, as well as all who come in contact with him socially, or in business matters.
His oflUcial conduct is marked by an enlightened regard for the true interests of the
country through which the road passes. The task of extending the road beyond Rose-
burg has proved an arduous one.

The construction of the railway through this entire region has been marked
by the greatest dispatch consistent with thorough workmanship, and the engineer-
ing difficulties to be overcome. The material used is in every i)articular of the very
best pr()Cural)lo. Steel rails of the fniest manufacture have I)e('n laitl, and the greatest

382 SOUTHERN OREGON.

pains have beeu taken in the selection of other articles. The utmost resources of the
saw-mills of the whole region have been brought into requisition to provide the neces-
sary lumber for the bridges, culverts, etc.,and for other indispensable purposes. What-
ever of the supplies that were attainable in the surrounding country have been pur-
chased there, and employment thus given to the neighboring settlers. Another source
of revenue to the latter class has arisen from their employment in the construction of
the road-bed, for which an immense treasure has been disbursed.

The advent of the iron horse forms, as it were, an epoch in the history of this section
hardly second in greatness and importance to the settlement of the country itself.
Railroad communication with the outer world is to the inhabitants of Southern Oregon
a matter of deepest significance ; its effects, extending to the very groundwork of
society, and penetrating every branch of business and every industrial occupation, and
making themselves felt by every individual, no matter in what situation he may find
himself. The ordinary importance of such an event is here intensified many fold by
reason of the previous utter isolation of the region — an isolation which has been pre-
viously dwelt upon herein, and which has scarcely a parallel in any extensive civilized
locality. The results of the new and improved condition of things have already been
felt beneficially, even to the utmost limits of the habitable part of the country, and
business, formerly of limited extent and uncertain intent, has gained a wider scope
and more steadfast character. The conditions which surrounded the settlement of this
region disappeared with celerity at the first blast of the locomotive whistle, and these
mountain valleys became at that moment a part of the world at large, and bade
adieu at once to their former seclusion and lax habits of business.

The immensely expensive work of preparing the road-bed through the rough and
mountainous region between the Umpqua and Rogue rivers, which more than once had
been pronounced imjjassable for a railroad, weighed upon their resources, but in a sur-
prisingly short space of time, these difficulties were conquered and the army of con-
struction moved on to attack the enemy in even a stronger position among the peaks
and gorges of the rugged Siskiyou range. It was among these lofty and rugged moun-
tains that the greatest difficulties had to be met, and the greatest and most extensive
engineering operations carried on. In that portion of the line between Barron's and
the state line the obstacles were of the most serious nature, and severely taxed the most
powerful resources. The work of building the road across these mountains encounters
difficulties almost unparalled in the history of railway construction in this country, and
far beyond most European roads. Their extent has previously prevented the union of
California with Oregon by rail, and except for the energy, perseverance and discern-
ment of the principal officers of the Oregon and California railwa}^ company, might
have retarded that union for years to come. There are in Douglas and Josephine
counties nine tunnels, some of them quite extensive, and in the Siskiyou region there
are seven more. Tunnel, number 13, known as Buck Rock tunnel, is 1,650 feet in
length, and number 15, the great Siskiyou tunnel, is 3,070 feet long. Siskiyou tunnel,
besides being the longest upon the road, will take rank as the liighest also, being 4,152
feet above the sea-level.

DOUGLAS COUNTY.

CHAPTER XLVL

GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF DOUGLAS COUNTY.

Position -Boundaries -Area -Topography Water Courses— The Umpqua River -Attempts to Navigate the
Stream— Channel Improved by the Government— The Cascade Mountains— Grand Scenery— Snowy Peaks
and Mirror Lakes Game and Fish of the Cascades— The North Umpqua The Coast Range.

Of the five counties embraced within the scope of this work, Douglas is the
largest and lies farthest to the north. It is bounded on the north by Lane county, on
the east by the summit of the Cascade mountains, on the south by the counties of
Jackson and Josej^hine, and on the west by Coos county and the Pacific ocean. Its
area is estimated at 4,950 square miles, or about one-twentieth of the whole state of
Oregon, of which it is one of the most important and prosperous counties. Its shape
is quite irregular, since its boundary lines follow principally the courses of rivers and
mountain ranges, and its greatest length is 121 miles, running northwest and southeast.

Douglas county includes the region commonly known as the Umpqua valley ;
but this term as we shall see is a misnomer. The only resemblance to a valley consists
in the basin-like depression which the whole county forms when contrasted with the
height of the mountains which encompass it. To the east lie the Cascades ; north are
the Calapooias ; south are the Canyon and the Rogue river mountains ; while on the
west lies that portion of the Coast Range known as the Umi:)qua mountains. These
ranges are mostly co-incident with the county boundaries as established by law, hence
it can be seen that nature has set apart this region and surrounded it with rocky walls.
The interior of this great basin is composed of small valleys, plains, canyons, gorges,
hills and mountains. Irregular ranges jiroceed from the main mountain chains and
cross the county in various directions, causing an endless variety of hill and dale,
meadow land and high elevation. Tlie highest spurs proceed from the Cascades, and
diverging westward, enclose between them the various eastern confluents of the Ump-
qua, namely, the North Umpqua, South Umpqua, Calapooia, Deer, Cougar, Dead
Man's, Bear, Coffee, Day's, and Myrtle, creeks or rivers. From the Canyon moun-
tains rises Cow creek, which enters the South Umpqua. In the hills of the south-
western portion the Olalla [Olilly], Ten Mile and Looking-glass creeks take tiieir rise,
flowing northwest into the Soutii Umi)qua. Hu1)bard, Lake and Camp creeks, i-ising
in the Umpqua mountains, lose themselves in the main Umpqua. into which run tlie
('alapooia and Elk creeks. Smith river ri.ses in the northern jtart of the cnunty and
flowing west empties into the sam(> stream near its mouth. Only one important stream

384 SOUTHERN OREGON.

within the limits of the county reaches the ocean direct. The Siuslaw, after a course
of about fifty miles, runs into the Pacific without first communicating with, tlie j^rin-
cipal river. These streams, with hundreds of lesser size, constitute the means of
drainage of the entire region. These means are perfect. The best and clearest water
flowing from thousands of springs pervades the whole county, making it one of the
best watered districts imaginable.

The Umpqua is second only to the Willamette of thn interior streams of
Oregon in its value as an artery of commerce, and deserves a somewhat extended
description. In 1879 it was surveyed by government engineers, from whose
report the following is condensed. It rises in the Cascade mountains and flows
westward for 180 miles, measured along its sinuosities, entering the Pacific ocean
175 miles south of the mouth of the Columbia. Its principal branches are the
North and South Umpqua, which unite ninety-six miles above its mouth. It drains
with its tributaries an area of 4,200 square miles of mountainous country. Ssottsburg,
situated on the north bank of the river, twenty-six miles from its mouth, is the head
of navigation. Above this the cliaanal presents a succession of rapids and deep pools.
From Scottsburg to Gardiner, at the head of the Umpqua bay, a distance of seventeen
miles, navigation at present is carried on by means of steamboats, which make regular
trips between the two points, carrying the mails, passengers and freight. Six miles
below Scottsburg the river is from 300 to 1,500 feet deep, except at shoals hereafter to
be noticed. Along this section it flows between stee|), rugged hills of terraced sand-
stone, fro'Ji 500 to 1,000 feet high, whose slopes extend generally in an unbroken line
into the water. Five miles balow Scottsburg the river begins to widen. From this
point to the head of the bay its width varies from 1,000 to 2,400 feet, while the bases
of the hills receding from the banks, leave several strips of level land from three to six
feet above mean tide level. All of the arable land on the Umpqua, below Scottsburg,
is contained in these mesdows, whose combined area does not exceed 2,000 acres. They
are well adapted to agriculture and grazing, the soil being rich and the vegetation
easily cleared.

Umpqua bay, from its entrance to its head, is eight miles long, and from three-
fourths to one-half mile wide. On portions of both sides, marshes, intersected by tidal
sloughs, extend to the hills. These lands cover about 1,800 acres, which, when
reclaimed by diking, will be valuable. The bay is perfectly land-locked, affording a
sheltered anchorage of 1,500 acres, with depths ranging from fourteen to thirty feet at
low tide. It is the deepest just below Gardiner. The entrance to Umpqua bay pre-
sents the same principal features and general outline as the sea. Rugged hills, covered
with fir timber on the south, a long line of sand spit, strewn with drift, on the north,
the channel running westward to the bar, which lies one-half a mile outside of the
general shore line. No change of importance is perceptible in the form and position
of the bar, as shown by the United States coast survey of 1852. The engineers made
soundings across the bar, and found thirteen feet the least depth at low tide. Sailing
vessels provided with pilots who know the bar, can enter in favorable weather. The
floods of the Umpqua occur in the winter. ' The highest recorded is that of December,
18G1, which rose to a height of forty-five feet above low water mark at Scottsburg, and
covered the marshes in the bay to a depth of two feet.

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F. W. BENSON. C. E.

DOUGLAS COUNTY. 385

The survey mentioned was requested by the citizens of Scottsburg for the purpose
of ascertaining the feasibility and cost of removing the obstructions to navigation
between that point and Gardiner. These consist of three bars, existing at Brandy ishind,
Echo island, and the mouth of Deane's creek, and of a number of rocks in the channel
just below the steamboat landing at Scottsburg. These bars have been formed recently
as within a few years schooners drawing seven and a half feet ascended to within a
mile of Scottsburg. They are composed of sand, mud and gravel overlying rock, with
a ruling depth of two and a half to three feet at mean low tide. The materials required
in building jetties to inci-ease the scour are found in abundance in the vicinity. The
estimated cost of improving the three bars is $11,110. "With this report the matter was
dropped, no subsequent action being taken either by the government or interested
residents.

As the main artery of the valley, the navigability of the Umpqna was formerly
discussed, and Curtis Stratton attemped to demonstrate the feasibilit}' of running flat-
boats laden with agricultural produce down the river to Scottsburg and there selling
the vessel for what the lumber would bring, having no hope of being able to ascend the
river with any craft. This bold navigator made his experimental voyage in a small
skiff', manned by two or three persons, and for the sake of impressiveuess carried a flag
and a tin horn whose footings resounded through the wooded hills and rocky canyons
of the Umpqua. Their report of the difficulties they encountered destroyed all hope of
navigating the river, for a time at least, steam power not then having entered into the
calculation. The Swan, a steamer commanded by Captain Hahn [Haun] ascended the
river as far as Koseburg in 1870. The distance from Scottsburg to Koseburg was
stated to be nearly 100 miles. The latter place is situated at an elevation of 324 feet
above the ocean, according to the topographical engineers ; but later surveys make it
somewhat more. Winchester is 308 feet above tide-water, and Canyon ville 516. A
move was made to secure appropriations from the general government foi" tlie purpose
of improving the channel, as Captain Hahn reported that the expenditure of a few
hundred dollars would enable vessels like his to pass the rapids with facility, except in
seasons of extreme low water. Shortly after the initial voyage a company known as
the Merchants and Farmers' Navigation company, was incorporated with the ol)ject of
" navigating the Umpqua river from Gardiner to Canyon ville or as far as practicable."
The directors of the corporation were J. C. Floed, president; T. P. Sheridan, J. C.
Hutchinson, D. C. McClellan and S. W. Crane. Asher Marks was trea.sure and James
Walton secretary. The capital stock was fixed at twelve thousand dollars. Captain
Hahn's services were engaged and a suitable steamer was immediately constructed.
This vessel was built under the direction of Captain Hahn, and was completed in
August, 1870. Her name was the Enterprise, and her cost with incidentals was about
18,000. The directors of the company advertised their rates for freighting from
Gardiner, which were as follows : To Scottsburg three dollars per ton ; to Calapooia ten
dollars ; to Eoseburg twelve ; and to landings above the latter place fourteen dollars.
The rates down river were just one half the u^) river tolls.

In editorial comment upon these events, the Plaindealer remarked: "There is now
no doubt that the Enterprise will be able to come to Koseburg for at least four months
in the year. and. witli a very little improvement of the river, will be able to make her

386 SOUTHERN OREGON.

trips for eight months. The difficuhies in the way of navigation are more apparent
than real, the distance from Scottsburg to Rosebnrg being one hundred miles, and the
altitude of the latter place being about three hundred feet above mean tide. The
improvements required consist jirinci^ially in blasting rocks from the channel. There
is sufficient water to secure navigation all the year around if confined in one bed, and
the improvements, if once made, will last forever. Some few wingdams may be neces-
sary on the South Unipqua, but the expense of these will be comparatively trifling. The
estimated cost of these improvements is $75,000, which would open to commerce a more
productive country than the Willamette valley. Senator Williams, the champion of
Southern Oregon, introduced a bill in congress to authorize the secretary of war to
make the necessary improvements, but the bill failed to pass. While we believe it to
be the duty of congress to make improvements upon the navigable streams, we are
happy to say that in this matter we shall not wait for their action, but will help our-
selves."

About the first of February following, the Eiitcrprhe left Scottsburg ou her first
trip up the river, and ascended beyond Sawyer's rapids, but finding the water dimin-
ishing, she returned to Scottsburg, and made no further efibrt. The winter was uncom-
monly dry, and the Umpqua remained very low. In January of 1871, the state legis-
lature memorialized congress for an appropriation of $75,000 to improve the navigation
of the Umpqua. Some months before this, namely, in 1870, two officers of the U. S-
engineer corps. Colonel Williamson and Lieutenant Herren, were detailed to make a
survey of the river, in order to ascertain its navigability. They reported that it could
be made navigable for about seven months in the year, with a depith of four feet above
low water, from Scottsburg to Roseburg, for about $22,000 ; and that a steamer could
then carrry freight to Rosebui'g for $20 per ton, and the amount saved annually on
imports would pay for the improvements.

The community had not by this time recovered from the pleasant sight of seeing a
steamer floating in the South Umpqua at Roseburg, and upon that event quite a
" boom " had been built up. Aided by the reports of the government engineers and
the action of the state legislature, an appropriation was secured, congress giving the
sum of $22,600 for the purpose of removing the obstructions to navigation. This took
place in March, 1871. In the same month the Plaindealer said : " We are confident
that ere two years have elapsed Roseburg will have daily steam communication with
the coast for seven months in the year. Farmers, plant grain!" It is noticeable that
for two or three years the newspapers argued manfully in the rainy season in favor of
steamboats on the Umpqua. In summer, with the diminished floods, their thoughts
took another turn, and railroads were their topic, until the advent of the Oregon and
California road.

The appropriation becoming available, the question of how to expend it became an
important one for the whole county. Contracts were let for removing the rocks at the
most dangerous rapids, and W. B. Clark undertook the work. The work was duly
carried out and accepted. Mr. Clark received some $14,000 of the sum, the remainder,
it is understood, not having been yet drawn. The results as to the navigation of the
stream do not appear to have equaled expectations. No vessels have been able to
ascend the river, or, rather, it does not appear that any have tried. Probably the idea

DOUGLAS COUNTY. 387

of navigating a stream which falls on an average three feet in each mile, is sulhcient to
deter every exjiei-ienced navigator. Since the coming of the railroad, tlie trade of
Scottsburg with the interior has almost ceased, and the demand for river traffic has
ceased with it. The steamers of the Merchants and Farmers' Navigation Company
(they had purchased the Swan of Captain Hahn) were engaged on the lower river,
between Scottsburg and Gardiner, and after a time the Enterprise was taken around to
Coos bay for service on that body of water. Captain Hahn, the veteran navigator, the
Columbus of the Umpqua, removed from the scene of his triumphs and perils, and
withdrew to California. The railroad projected from Roseburg to Coos bay will fniallv
remove all necessity for navigation of the Umpqua.

Near the eastern boundary of Douglas county lies a very interesting and remai-k-
able region, whose peculiarities deserve a somewhat lengthened description, unique as
they are in many respects. It is -a region of trees, of rocks, and of waterfalls. Here
nature is seen at her grandest. The precipitous sides of the lofty mountains are
clothed with evergreens. In the shade of the mighty forest the streams flow from slope
to slope, tracing their lonely way over rock and through chasm, laving the mossy
boulder and bearing away minute fragments to the land below. In summer this is an
enchanting land. All nature as seen in the temperate zone, conspires to make inter-
esting and sublime the country of the Cascades. It is of the higher altitudes that
mountaineers and travelers speak when they describe the glories of the scenery. The
region is one of wonderful -beauty, grandeur and picturesqueness. The union of vast
distances, with towering heights, mirror-like expanses of water, limitless forests, and
rushing torrents, makes up a scene that even the most prosaic of humanity can but
regard with interest and awe. The mighty Cascade range culminates at the head of
the Rogue and Umpqua rivers. It is there that are massed and concentrated the grand-
est views, the most romantic situations, the fairest of nature's works. In no otiier
region of equal extent are found a greater number or variety of objects attractive to the
tourist, the lover of nature or the pleasure-seeker. Eleven grand snow-peaks are ranged
within view. Mounts Scott, Thielsen, Pitt, Old Baldy, the Bohemian range and Dia-
mond Peak, crowned with everlasting snow, seem to crowd upon each other. A score
of beautiful lakes, tenanted by the gamest flsh, lie about the bases of the giant peaks.
Crater lake, to the southward, on the confines of Jackson county, lies surrounded l)y
its five sentinels, objects to rivet the eye and the mind. The volcano lying within the
magic circle formed by the upper waters of South Ump(]ua, presents its ruined and
demolished walls as evidence of the mighty agencies which built up this stupendous
range, and later on covered a vast region with pumice and scoria. This mountjiin, or
rather the remains of what was once a mountain, and perhaps one of the largest and
highest of all the Cascades, lies southwest of Cowhorn Peak, and but a few miles dis-
tant. It consists of a rim of rock a few hundred feet in height, rising steeply from the
oast and nearly perpendicularly from the west, toward which point tlie rim is concave
like t)ie arc of a circle. This arc partly inclo.ses the space upon which the volcano sat,
bill whose internal forces destroyed it and blew it in fury from its resting place. Four
small lakes filled with clear water and alive with trout, sparkle in the place where once
such mighty energies were at work. Five hundred feet perpendicularly ri.se the rugged
rocks to the east, forming an inaccessible wal! which overlooks the now ]tlacid and

388 SOUTHERN OREGON.

quiet scene. The altitude of the higher peaks varies from 8,500 to 9,250 feet, Diamond
Peak and Mt. Scott being of about the former height, and Baldy, Cowhorn and Pitt,
each over 9,000 feet. The Bohemian range, at the junction of the Calapooias with the
Cascades, is something like 7,000 feet, and many other prominent points north and
south approach or exceed these figures

Through these solitudes the lordly elk once made his way, but now his race is
there extinct. Bears of various species, the brown, the black, the cinnamon, and even
the grizzly, abound upon the lower slopes, deriving their sustenance from the clover,
which blossoms early, and getting fat in the time the huckleberries ripen. At other
times they exist upon smaller and weaker animals, the sheep of the adventurous fron-
tiersmen forming a greater part of their diet. Bears are most numerous upon the head-
waters of the South Umpqua, where they may be seen in dozens, in early spring,
browsing upon the tender shoots of clover. Here is the sportsman's paradise. To hunt
and kill even this game is a thing of little moment. Even the powerful grizzly is dis-
patched with hardly a thought of danger by the hardy guides and mountaineers. The
deer (blacktail) are hunted with success, three Indians having killed, in a few days, or
rather murdered for their hides, no less than two hundred and ten deer on the small
stream known as Fish lake creek. These beautiful and timid animals become very fat
in the autumn, their flesh being equal to the best beef and mutton. The mule deer is
occasionally met with on this slope of the range, but not often do they come west of
the summit, their habitat being upon or among the less wooded hills and mountains of
Eastern Oregon and Idaho. They exceed the blacktail in size, but not in quality of
meat. The maximum weight of the mule deer is said to reach 300 pounds, or twice
that of the largest blacktails.

Antelopes have been seen near Cowhorn, but their range is eastward on the open
hills, and rarely are they found in a densely timbered country. Mountain sheep are
reported in the Cascades, but are seldom or never seen in Douglas county. Grouse
are abundant, pheasants not less so. The former, a migratory bird, accumulates much
fat during his stay among the huckleberries and salal bushes, and provides for the
hunter's fare a delicacy not easily surpassed. Geese and ducks breed in the lakes and
marshes of the higher Cascades, and during a great part of the year are exceedingly
numerous. Their flesh, too, assists to vary the diet of the Iiardy hunter. Trout of two
species abound in nearly all the lakes and streams. These matchless game fishes are
of more than one species, the small mountain or brook trout existing in the rai)id
streams, a much larger variety finding its home in the lakes and certain of the larger
and deeper rivers. These latter not unfrequently attain a weight of ten pounds or
more. Some minor varieties of fish also occur here, the chub being the principal. In
Fish lake, close to the volcano, the greatest profusion of these varieties occurs, making
a favorite resort, not only of man, but of those more skilled fishers, the fish-eating birds
and mammals. By a singular chance there are no fish in Cowhorn lake, as rejiorted
by mountaineers. The water of that lake is said to be warm, which may account for
their absence. The guessed altitude of this sheet of water is 4,500 feet, its surface has
an area of 5,000 acres, it is comparatively shallow, is oblong in shape, and forms the
source of the North Umpqua. Next to Crater lake it presents more points of interest
than any other of the remarkable bodies of water found on the higher Cascades.

DOUGLAS COUNTY. 389

Tlie region of the North Umixjua is one of can^yons, endless precipiees and water-
falls, and is destitute of aught but the faintest of trails. Taking its rise in Lake Dia-
mond (Cowhorn Peak lake), the river flows in a stream of thirty or forty feet in wi(Uh,
and perhaps a foot deep, running over a bed of pumice stone. Further on it is
swelled by numerous affluents, all rising from springs, sometimes of great capacity, and
all carrying the clearest and coldest of water, within which the speckled trout gambols.
Instead of extensive prairies, only very small openings appear, covered with grjiss.
Within these the greatest profusion of game, animals and birds find sustenance, and in
the shadow of the woods the- huge and active cougar (California lion) stalks, cat-like,
upon his unsuspecting victim. Man has never reduced these lonely solitudes to his sway,
and for many a long year will find them profitless, save for the timber which grows
here, or for the health wdiich all may seek in the pure air and icy waters.

The Coast Range mountains, though not so lofty as the Cascades, and not possessing
the snowy peaks and great mountain lakes of which that region boasts, are still most
picturesque and beautiful. From it run down many small streams to the sea, or to
augment the waters of the Umpqua, Siuslaw or Coquille, which have hewn a passage
for themselves through this opposing wall. These little streams dash from rock to
rock, gathering here and there into cool and shaded pools where dwell the speckled
trout. At their banks the timid deer assuages his thirst. Sometimes the lordly elk —
scion of a fast disappearing race — ventures to the mossy brim. Certain wise and cau-
tious forest inhabitants, the marten, the weasel, the fisher, here hide from the eye of
man, and prey upon the harmless creatures destined for their food. The blundering
black bear, much maligned for his love of mutton, has his unpretentious home among
these almost impenetrable thickets. The California lion has been heard to roar in
these solitudes, and his lesser congener, the wild cat, is not unknown therein. The
active chipmunk and the small red squirrel, with their graceful and handsome relative
the bushy-tailed gray squirrel, find within these woods the sustenance and protection
which their habits demand and utilize. This is even now the condition of these
mountains, so little has the order of nature been disturbed.

The avalanche or landslide, is a feature of this region, when great masses of
earth, loosened by the action of the water, come rushing irresistibly down some narrow
canyon. Sometimes every loose boulder, all trees, and every particle of earth will be
swept onward with the accunuilated waters, leaving the place over which they passed as
clean and bare as if it had been carefully cleared by the mightiest forces of science
antl nature. A marked example of this may be seen at Laird's Half-way House,
usually known as Sitkum. A slide of unusual magnitude took place in the mountain
above the house, an enormous amount of timber, boulders and earth falling over the
100-foot cascade near by. From the narrow canyon below the fall every vestige of
loose rocks, trees and earth was removed, leaving the solid sandstone walls and floor
perfectly smooth. Below and near the buildings the debris collected, and now lies
many feet in depth, covering fertile land and tlesolating an otherwise pleasant pros-
pect. Nearly twenty persons were gathered in the house, and all narrowly escaped
death, the avalanche passing so near as absolutely to pile itself to a considerable height
against the end of the building. A little diversion of its flood and all would have
been lost.

CHAPTER XLVIL

RESOURCES AND INDUSTRIES OF DOUGLAS COUNTY.

Wealth of Timber —Extent of the Forests— Varieties of Forest Growth— Timber Comparatively Untouched — Min-
eral and Coal Resources— Agricultural-Sheep, Cattle and Horses— Fruit and Berries— Transportation Facilities.

The natural resources of Douglas county areof the most valuable and inexhaustible
character, consisting of a wealth of desirable timber, valuable deposits of minerals, and
a soil of great fertility. Agriculture and stock-raising, especially sheep of the finer
grades, comprise the leading industries of the people. Of the various resources and
industries it is the purpose of this chapter to speak in detail. The most prominent and
observable source of wealth is the limitless extent of forests that cover the sides and
bases of the mountains which enclose the Umpqua basin. Two vast ranges of forest-
covered mountains traverse the state from north to south, the Coast Range and Cas-
cades, and within the limits of Douglas county, united as they are by lateral ranges,
they bear upon their tops and sides a wealth that would ransom a nation.

As yet, the woodman's axe has left uneflfaced the glories of the great forest, which
clothe, as with a garment, the rugged, scarred and canyon-seamed sides of the Cascades.
For thirty miles, with scarcely a break, the mighty woods extend downward, from near
the everlasting snow to the green and smiling valleys. Here grow the cedar, pine, fir,
hemlock (scattering), yew and other less notable trees, and attaining a great size and
producing lumber of the very best quality. The pine is of two varieties, the sugar and
the white pine, the former, a most beautiful and valuable wood, predominating. Speci-
mens of this timber yield boards, split with frow and mallet, to the length of thirty and
even fifty feet. They grow to a great height, affording a length of from 70 to 100 feet
clear of limbs and knots, and reaching five and a half feet in greatest diameter. The
finest groves of sugar pine exist on a small tributary of Cavitt creek, where, on a space
of one acre, sixteen of these fine trees stand, whose average base diameter is nearly four
feet. The firs also flourish, growing with a straight grain that allows them to be split
to almost any length. The yellow fir is the most valuable ; the red variety most
abundant. The cedar grows abundantly, partaking of the qualities of the pine as far
as regards adaptability to the construction of dwellings. Two varieties, the smooth bark
and the mountain cedar, grow, the latter by far the most abundantly, but least valua-
ble. A portion of the timber may be found to be affected by dry rot, but the greater
percentage is perfectly sound in every particular. The sugar pine attains a maximum
diameter of seven feet ; there are red firs of a diameter of eleven feet, though these are
rare ; and specimens of the smooth bark cedar have reached eight feet through oi-
twenty-five feet in circumference. The rough bark cedar is somewhat less in maximum
diameter. Besides these, some less important growths are found. The yew, famous for

DOUGLAS COUNTY. 391

its durability, grows upon the low flats sometimes to a diameter of tliirty inches. In
Portland, the wood commands eighty dollars per thousand feet, being used for the liner
grades of cabinet work.

In order to arrive at a roughly approximate estimate of the amount of tir, pine and
cedar timber now standing in the eastern part of Douglas county, it is necessary to
inquire what area of land is covered by these trees? For other purposes we may assume
i!iat the whole country east of range 4, is timber land. This area equals about thirty
townships. In the absence of minute statistics one can do no more than assume that
the average of standing timber thereon is 35,000 feet per acre — presumably a low esti-
mate. These jBgures result in 22,666,000,000 feet, a quantity inconceivable to the
mind, but certainry a very important and telling factor in the future prosperitv of the
country.

Thus far but faint attempts have been made to utilize this splendid source of
wealth. Two small mills only are upon the North Umpqua. Of these, Patterson's
mill, owned now by the Tipton Brothers, stands upon the banks of the river a mile
below the East Umpqua. Steam is the motive power, and there are double circulars,
edgers, trimmers, a planer, etc. This mill, built in 1876, was located four miles further
upstream, but on the accession of the present owners, in 1878, was removed to its pres-
ent site. Its capacity is from 10,000 to 13,000 feet of lumber per day, most of which
finds a market at Roseburg. The other mill spoken of is owned now (1883) by Messrs.
Sambert & Noble, purchasers from Mr. Trask, and is located one mile below the Pat-
terson, having nearly the same capacity. The motive povt'er is water. The mill was
built about 1876, and manufactures ordinary lumber, doors, windows, shingles, etc.
The average price of rough lumber, &v, per thousand, has been about ten dollars, while
sugar pine has brought twenty-five dollars.

The timber covering the Coast Range differs in some respects from that of the
Cascades, the chief point of distinction being the vast quantity of white cedar to be
found in these coast mountains. Though found on the eastern slope, this valuable tree
is only seen in its splendor and abundance on the sides of the mountains that look out
upon the sea. The red cedar also exists in quantity. Red and white fir and sj)ruce
are also found in abundance. Along the water courses, especially on the western slope^
myrtle is found in such quantities as to dispute the pre-eminence of the stately firs and
cedars. The myrtle is known in California as laurel or' pepper-wood, and in other
places as the bay tree. Not less imposing in appearance, though less numerous, are the
maples which fairly divide the traveler's attention with the myrtles. These prefer
likewise the soft, mellow soil of the bottom lands. They grow as high as their neigh-
bors and perhaps slightly higher, but so equal are they all in size, height and appear-
ance that the harmony of the groves is unbroken. Both grow from fifty to seventy
feet, stand at regular distances and form a dense shade. Both are deciduous ; that is,
they drop their leaves at a certain season and stand mcovered before the blasts of win-
ter. Their rich foliage lies uj)on the ground to quieny decompose and add its elements
to the soil already enriched by the deposits of centuries. The resulting mould forms
the richest and most easily cultivated soil of which the state of Oregon can Ixiast. For
root crojjs and gra.sses it has no ecjual.

392 SOUTHERN OREGON.

As yet tlie forests of the Coast Range stand almost in their primeval condition.
Here and there the mountain side is scared with great patches of black, sometimes
miles in extent, where forest fires have ravaged the vergin forest ; but man has made
little impression upon them in taking out the few thousand feet of lumber his needs
have required. The patches cleared by settlers, chiefly the onaple and myrtle from the
bottom lands, represent the most considerable inroads upon the forests; when slaughtered,
or " slashed," for that purpose, the trees are generally disposed of by burning. The
timber forests of Douglas will be a source of wealth to her people for many generations
to come.

There is another element of natural wealth, and that is the mineral treasure the
earth contains, both of gold and silver. The most important mineral region is the
Bohemia district, situated in the Calapooia mountains, about fifty miles northeast
from Oakland, and seventy miles southeast of Eugene City. The quartz ledges are
chiefly found in the immediate neighborhood of three peaks, named Mounts Majesty,
Fairview and Grouse. One Johnson, a prospector, discovered the ledges in 1867. In
the next year several persons examined the locality, ascertaining that a very large
number of gold and silver-bearing veins existed there. The most prominent ledge,
named Excelsior, is situated upon the crest of Grouse mountain from which a precepi-
tous canyon descends, affording access to the vein at gi'eat depths, with comparatively
little tunneling, and obviating the use of pumjiiug and hoisting works. Assays were
early made of this ore, the results reaching two thousand dollars per ton. An ample
supply of ore for years was at hand. Judge Mosher and other gentlemen of Roseburg
became owners of claims in this district and set about developing them, after a great
deal of expense and trouble to find them profitless. Mr. Veatch, a capable mineralo-
gist and expert, since deceased, made a journey to these mines under the auspices of the
owners and reported thereon at length, describing them in flattering terms and only
taking exceptions to the road thence which he denounced as of unparalleled difl&culty.
With great difficulty and at a cost of three thousand dollars the Bohemia and Cala-
pooia Ridge route to the mines was opened in 1871.

Many unavailing efforts were made to work these mines, but without success.
John Rast, of Roseburg, owning a claim, became much interested therein, but his dis-
coveries extended only to finding an extraordinary species of animal life in the snow
thereabouts. Joseph Knott and son, of Portland, purchased a steam quartz mill of five
stamjis and ten-horse power, transported it at great cost and trouble to the toj) of the
mountain and set it up. His venture was not altogether unsuccessful, if we may believe
newspaper reports, for his mine produced some very valuable ore. From a crushing,
of one hundred tons the yield averaged forty-five dollars per ton — an extraordinary
production for any gold quartz mine. No base metals were found in the rock to render
amalgamation difficult, and the gold was free and coarse. Even under such desirable
conditions work soon ceased and has not since been resumed. It is to be understood
from this that the veins carried but small percentage of gold-bearing quartz, the gi-eater
proportion being barren rock. Bohemia District is now practically abandoned; but
the not distant future may see its mines re-opened and work carried on with vigor.
Developments showed that silver-bearing rock existed to some extent, one very rich
streak having yielded chloride of silver to the amount of nearly two hundred dollars

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DOUGLAS COUNTY. 393

l^er ton. This fact is of importance as pointing out what form future developments
may take. Quartz ledges also exist on Poorman's creek, between Olilly and Cow creeks,
and at other places in the county.

From the vicinity of the Bohemia district flows Steamboat creek, which has its
sources high in the Calapooia mountains, at an altitude of not less than 7,000 feet.
Along the creek there are several thousand acres of land, good, not only for agricul-
tural, but mineral pursuits. In 18(50 several persons were engaged in mining on the
stream, among whom was Robert Easton, who made with a short sluice from two to
four dollars a day. Another attempt was made by a company in 1864, but a difference
in their councils stojaped the work when it was likely to be profitable. Since that time
nothing has been done, and one of the best portions of the county has remained a
wilderness. The creek is accessible from Patterson's mill by an Indian trail ; but
small difiiculty would be found in building an excellent wagon road to the headwaters
of the most magnificent branch of the North Umpqua, which will develop a section of
the county unsurpassed for mining or grazing purposes, without counting its agricul-
tural facilities.

About the time when Steamboat creek was being prospected, miners were also
examining the other tributaries of the North Umpqua with a view to working the
auriferous sands. In 1870 placers were discovered on Fall creek, flowing into the
south side of the river, in township 26 south, range 3 west. Eor a time the miners
were said to be making from four to ten dollars per day. These deposits proved of
small extent, however, and were soon abandoned. On White Rock creek. Copperhead
creek, and neighboring small streams the "color" was easily found, and a small amount
of gold was taken out, chiefly by some half dozen men, among whom was R. L. Cavitt,
now residing in the vicinity of his mining labors. Three hundred dollars were the
result of his operations in a certain small gulch. The deposits of gravel, though pay-
ing pretty well for a short time, proved of too small extent to be of importance, and
]ilacer mining upon the North Umpqua and its tributaries is a thing of the past.

Placer mining has been carried on for a number of years in a desultory
manner and with varied success, on Cow creek, and its tributaries, Tennessee gulch,
Hog 'Em and Starve-out. Cow creek takes its rise on the south side of the Umpqua
mountains, but turning north cuts through these mountains and empties into the St)uth
Umpqua about twenty miles south of Roseburg. Hog 'Em, Starve-out and Tennessee
gulch are south of the canyon. Placer gold has also been discovered and mined on
Coffee creek, a stream which empties into the South Umpqua twenty miles above
Canyonville ; on Olilly, a branch of Looking Glass creek ; on Poorman's creek near
Canyonville; and on Myrtle creek. Mining is now being quite extensively pursued
along Cow creek, where the hydraulic process is being used to some extent. There are
no data by which the amount of gold obtained from these mines can be ascertaine<l, but
it is very considerable, the most of them having yielded largely when first discovered.
They are all surface diggings, and having been carelessly worked, have for the most
part been abandoned to the Chinese, who undoubtedly work them with profit.

Quicksilver is another mineral to be found in Douglas county, and for several
years the cinnabar ore has been worked to advantage. In 1882 the firm of Todd,
Emerson ct Co. made a run of 100 tons of ore at their Elk Head mine, and took out

394 SOUTHERN OREGON.

500 lbs. of quicksilver, besides which some 200 lbs. more reinaiued in the condensers.
They claimed to have an abundant supply of ore, their works passing through over
thirty feet of paying rock. This company began work in 1880. The ISTonpareil and
Bonanza mines, both worked by the Quicksilver Mining Company, are in the vicinity
of Oakland. Tellurium, also, is being mined by the Tellurium Mining- Company,
which has been at work several years with good success. Copper and nickel are found,
but no mine is being worked. Valuable deposits of lime rock and cement also exist.

The item of coal must not be omitted in detailing the bountiful gifts nature has
bestowed upon this region. Coos county, adjoining Douglas on the west and south-
west, is almost a solid bed of coal beneath the surface, and this broad expanse of car-
boniferous veins extends far into Douglas county. Coal also exists in the Calapooia
mountains. No eflFort is being made to develop this great resource in this county, but
it lies there ready to yield up its treasure to those who seek it. With the most dili-
gent and extensive working of these mines the fields would remain inexhaustible for
centuries to come.

The most permanent, reliable and available source of wealth Douglas possesses, is
her winding valleys and fertile soil. Here thousands of j^eople have built their houses,
and here they draw from the willing earth the food that supj^orts many thousands
more. Though small in proportion to the whole area of the county, the total of valley
and bottom lands amounts to many thousands of acres. The valleys have, in the main,
long since been cleared of obstructing timber and subdued to the yoke of the plow, or
fitted for the grazing of sheep and cattle. There is, however, much bottom land, and
some valleys somewhat remote from the usual routes of travel, which can still be located
upon by those seeking homes. AVhen the land has been denuded of its enormous store
of trees, the flats, hills and bottoms become valuable for the crojis they will raise or the
herds they will support. The soil is good ; no other could support the immense growth
of trees and shrubs. It is mostly a dark mould derived from the decomposition of
vegetable matter, as leaves, roots, trunks of trees, and their admixture with earthly
ingredients, carried sometimes by the floods upon low lands, or by the force of gravity
from higher elevations. A sort of rich, red loam is frequent, a gravelly soil of less
productiveness covers large tracts, and sticky clays, of various colors and appearances,
are often found. Quite to the t023 of high hills the best of soil is found, and few locali-
ties are so sterile as to be unable to produce grass sufiicient for the support of sheep or
stock. Wheat, oats, barley, corn, flax seed, vegetables, etc., produce in abundance.
Potatoes and other root crops are of superior quality. The Umpqua basin is the only
portion of Oregon lying west of the Cascades, except Rogue River valley, where corn
can be prodi^ced in quantity and quality to make it profitable. The season of 1883
was a phenominally dry one, the total rainfall at Roseburg being but 22.48 inches,
while in June, July and August but .05 of an inch fell. Notwithstanding this fact
the grain crop of this region was a large one, many fields yielding from thirty to thirty-
five bushels of wheat to the acre in fields as large as 100 acres.

The sheep and wool of the Umpqua valley are the most celebrated of Oregon, and
Umpqua fleeces command the highest price in the San Francisco market of all that reach
the city from the Pacific coast. It was several years after the settlement of Umpqua
valley before sheep were introduced in considerable number. The Apjilegates, of Ump-

I

DOUGLAS COUNTY. 395

qua, were the first to enter 111)011 wool growing, and from the Wocks of Charles Applegate
many of the later sheep owners obtained their start. The sheep of this fiock
were without pretentions to purity of blood, were a hardy, useful, good framed
and tolerably well wooled lot, shearing about four pounds of medium lengthed
wool to the fleece, and may be taken as a fair type of the average sheep.
From the Willamette valley and from California importations were made at
times, varying much in quality. From the former region came the splendid flock of
of merinos owned by T. Smith, a very prominent and successful wool grower and once
president of the State Agricultural Society. The improvement of sheep engaged more
and more attention as time passed. Some few merino rams were introduced before
1860, but in that year came Rockwell, a noted importer, breeder, and more than all,
seller of stock sheep. His coming is not yet forgotten in Douglas, at least among the
sheep men. He brought a flock of merino rams for which he found a ready sale at
prices ranging from $300 to $700. Few were proof against his persuasive powers-
Among others, mechanics, men who had not an ewe to their names, bought his $500
rams. It was an astonishing revelation of the power of the Yankee tongue, cultivated
by study and practice, on the susceptible western imagination. The theme of sheep-
raising became a bucolic poem in his honeyed mouth ; merino wool and moral eleva-
tion, heavy fleeces and eternal happiness seemed for the time insuperably connected,
and the mesmeric trance of the listening subject generally ended by his finding a ram
in his pasture, and his note for $500 in Rockwell's pocket. Some of these sheef) did
good service. Those purchasers who found on recovering their normal condition that
they had no use for their rams, sold them at much reduced prices to those who had ;
and although many of these sheep died during the first or second year, yet they left
an improved progeny. Since that time the most notable importation of merino stock has
been that of the McLeod flock, by Smith and Walton ; but, although some of these
sheep were fully equal to the Rockwell lot, the Scotchmen, not having the financial
dexterity and persuasive power of the Vermouter, was content to sell them at one-tenth
the price. The prominence liere given to merino stock is because the desire for
improvement has taken this direction. Of late years a number of flocks of long-wool
sheep, especially the cotswold, have been introduced with good success, though the
reputation of Umpqua wool still rests upon its splendid merinos.

Formerly, Douglas was a great stock county, but gradually pastures have disap-
peared before the plow, and cattle have given way to grain ; still, the stock interests or
the county are considerable. Durham and Devon cattle are the prevailing breeds,
though a few Jerseys have recently been imported, a few of pure blood and the others
crossed. Cattle thrive best when fed through the winter season, though they can pick
their own living in the foothill ranges. The excellent winter pasturage, affording gra.>*s
for the cattle at a season when the stock of the eastern dairy regions are living upon
hay renders the Umpqua valley especially adapted to dairying. The blood of draft
horses in the county has been undergoing a process of improvement for a number of
years by breeding to imported Percheron stallions.

As a fruit region, the Umpqua valley shares with the Rogue river region the honor
of producing the finest quality and greatest abundance of Oregon fruit. Apjiles, i)i'ars,
plums, cherries, peachi's, a]/ricots and gra]U's gmw in profusion. In the lino of small

396 SOUTHEEN OREGON.

fruits, especially strawberries, Douglas county rules the Portland market. The first
settlers found j^lums and raspberries growing wild in the greatest luxuriance, and time
has shown how well the soil that sustained them was adapted to the cultivated varieties.
Transportation facilities play an important part in developing the natural resources of
any region. Douglas was, until four years ago, but poorly provided with means for
sending her products to market. She now is better situated and expects soon to be even
more favored. The route to the sea, by the way of Gardiner, involves hauling by
wagon to Scottsburg and transfer to steamer at that point. For a number of years^
Roseburg was the southern terminus of the Oregon & California railroad, but that line
has been extended south, and now passes through the whole length of the county, from
north to south. A project of much importance is well advanced, and that is the con-
struction of a road from Roseburg to Coos bay, passing by way of the Coquille through
the heart of the vast timber and coal regions of Douglas and Coos counties. The con-
struction of a railroad line to some harbor on the coast, accessible to deep water vessels,
has long been regarded as the one thing needful for the Umpqua valley. A project
to build such a line to Port Orford was at one time well advanced. After a number
of years of slow progress, the Roseburg and Coos bay road seems now in a fair way to
early become an accomplished fact. This region will then enjoy a short and cheap
means of communication with the sea, with all the palpable advantages of such a facil-
ity. The poi3ulation, products and general wealth and prospects of Douglas county
will, beyond question, be largely augmented during the next four years.

CHAPTER XLVIIL

SETTLEMENT AND ORGANIZATION OF DOUGLAS COUNTY.

Condition of this Region when the Provisional Government was Organized -First Knowledge of Douglas Coun-
ty—Sir Francis Drake and his Pilot Morera— Bartolome Ferrelo in 1543— Cape Blanco and Rio de Aguilar—
Legend of a Spanish Vessel in the Umpqua— Disaster of Jedediah S. Smith -Fort Umpqua Built by the
Hudson's Bay Company First Organization of Counties in this Region — Early Settlements— Towns Founded
Along the Umpqua — Umpqua County Organized— Douglas County Organized— County Seat Contest— Ump-
qua and Douglas Consolidated — Subsequent Events.

At the time when the few American settlers who had gathered on this far western
frontier, knowing not yet to whom this fair country belonged, and feeling the absolute
need of some form of government for the protection of society, for united defense in
case of an attack by the aborigines, and for all those purposes for which governing
authority is necessary even in such a primitive state of society, organized the Pro-
visional Government of Oregon, there were then no American settlers living within
the limits of the present county of Douglas. The only representatives of the Caucasian
race living south of the Calapooia mountains, were the few white em^iloyees of the
Hudson's Bay Company, stationed at Fort Umpqua, just opposite the mouth of Elk
creek, and the members of trap])ing parties belonging to that great corporation, trap-
ping along the streams of that region and Northern California. The fertile valleys
which are now the abode of civilization, whose surrounding hills echo the ringing-
invitation of the church bell, where the school house door stands open and the smoke
curls upward like an incense to heaven from the chimney-tops of a thousand happy
homes, were then occupied by a race of savages. The fertile fields which now reward
the husbandman's toil with bountiful harvests of grain, knew not the uses of the plow;
seed time and harvest came and went unheeded. Nature had dealt lavishly with this
fair land, and upon her bounteous gifts these simple natives depended for their suste-
nance. Their food was the wild game of the forest, roots, grass seeds, nuts, berries, wild
fruits and fish. They were children of nature, and nature had to provide for their
wants unaided. The extent of their own providence consisted of laying in a store of
each thing in its season, to be used when nature was resting from her labor and recu-
perating her energies for another effort. This much had they learned from sad experi-
ence, but little more. Forty years have wrought a mighty change, liow great the
following pages fully show. The Indian has disappeared before the irresistible advance
of a superior race ; the fittest has survived ; the l&sser civilization has vanished. It is
all in accordance witli that great rule of evolution and steady developnient towards
higher and better forms by which the whole universe is governed ; and no one, seeing
the great results accomplished, can fail to say that it is best. Even the few survivors
of the lower race, gazing upon the blossoming fields which once belonged to their

398 SOUTHERN OREGON.

ignorant ancestors, though the iron enters their soul and they mourn the decadence of
their people, sadly admit that the result was inevitable and was so ordained by the
Great Spirit.

There is much uncertainty as to the knowledge of the Oregon coast possessed by
the early Spanish explorers. From their rejiorts it seems that in nearly every instance
when, indeed, they reached as high a latitude at all, they remained out of sight of
laud from Cape Mendocino to Vancouver island. It thus happened that the extreme
northern coast was explored and its details marked upon the majis with approximate
correctness long before the character of the coast line of Oregon was uixlerstood, and
before the mouth of the Columbia was discovered Spain and England were involved in
a quarrel at Nootka, on the Island of Vancouver, many leagues further north.

It is possible that Douglas county contains the soil ui^on which rested the first
Caucasian foot that ever was set on the Pacific coast of the United States. In 1578,
Sir Francis Drake, that great English freebooter and scourge of the Spanish com-
merce, who was knighted by his queen for being the most successful pirate of his time,
ravaged the Pacific colonies of Spain and plundered and burned her ships. Accord-
ing to Spanish accounts, though English narratives of his adventures are silent on the
subject, Drake made his first landing on the northern coast in the vicinity of the Ump-
qua. Here he entered a " poor harbor" and put ashore his Spanish pilot, Morera,
leaving him among savages who had never before soen nor heard of a white man, to
perish at their hands or by starvation or exposure while making his way through
3,000 miles of unknown wilderness to Mexico. It was an act to be expected of such
a reckless sea rover. Morera seems to have accomplished this wonderful journey,
since from him only could the account have come, provided the whole story is not an
invention of early Spanish historians, whose opinion of Drake was little better than oi
the father of all evil himself

Though Drake was the first to )nake a lauding on the coast, he was not the first to
see it from the deck of a vessel. In 1543, Bartolome Ferrelo, in command of two
vessels dispatched by the Mexican Viceroy, coasted as far north as lattitude 43° or 44°,
though no effort was made to land or to explore the details of the coast. In 1603,
Ensign Martin de Aguilar, in command of a small Spanish fragata, exjjlored the coast
of this region. Torquemada, in his history of this voyage, says: " On the nineteenth
of January, the pilot, Antonio Flores, found that they were in the latitude of 43 degrees,
where the land formed a cape or point, which was named Cape Blanco. From that
point the coast begins to turn to the northwest ; and near it was discovered a rapid and
abundant river, with ash trees, willows, brambles and other trees of Castile on its banks,
which they endeavored to enter, but could not from the force of the current." In
lattitude 42° 52' is Cape Orford, so named by Vancouver. Cape Arago, called Greg-
ory by Captain Cook, lies m latitude 43° 23', and the cape named Blanco may have
been Orford or Arago. The river was probably the Umpqua, though it is within
the limits of possibility that Kogue river is the one referred to. It would seem, how-
ever, that they passed Cape Blanco and continued up the coast some distance, else they
could not have known that it turned to the northwest, and came upon the Umjxiua.
The discovery of this river created considerable interest in Spainaud led to some pecu-
liar geographical speculations. The Colorado river had been explored many miles

DOUGLAS COUNTY. 399

nortlnvard, and tliis led to the idea that these two great rivers united at some indefinite
point in the interior transforming, California into an island. It was so indicated on
many maps of the seventeenth century, while others, even as late as the discovery of
the Columbia, had marked upon them a large river flowing from a vast distance in the
interior and entering the ocean about latitude 43°, which was called Aguilar's river.

The papers of Southern Oregon have several times published a statement to the
effect that Spanish history records the discovery and christening of the Umpqua as
having occurred in 1732. The substance of the story is, that a Spanish vessel became
disabled by severe weather at sea and sought for a port on the coast where it could
enter and make needed repairs. The mouth of the Umpqua was observed, and this the
vessel entered, ascending to near the site of Scottsburg, where the anchor was made fast
and the work of repairing began. Many large trees were cut down, and it is asserted
that their decayed stumps were observed by the first settlers, who were informed by the
Indians that many long years ago a vessel came up the river and the people on board
had beards and white faces, and they cut down these trees. As the stumps at that
time were upwards of a hundred years old, they must have been in a tolerably good
state of preservation to have attracted the attention of the settlers. The story goes on
to say that the Indians called the stream Uii-m, meaning river, and from this sprung
the jwesent name.

Careful investigation fails to reveal any authority for the above story, while on the
contrary there are many evidences, of a negative character to be sure, which throw dis-
credit upon it. For many years before and after the date mentioned no explorations
of the coast were made by Spanish vessels or those of any other nation; yet it is possible
that one of the Spanish merchantmen from the East Indias, which usually first reached
the coast south of Cape Mendocino, may have been blown out of her course and entered
the Umpqua in distress, as stated. If this had been the case, however, and the river
named as related, then Spanish charts Avould thereafter have had indicated upon them
the Umpqua river ; but such was not the case, for the only river marked in this region
on Spanish maps was the one discovered in 1603, and invariably named Rio de Aguilar.
It is difiicult to understand upon what authority this story of the discovery and naming
of the Umpqua rests, and it may well be doubted until better evidence is produced.

From that time until 1827, the Umpqua appears to have remained unknown.
The great Northwest Company and Hudson's Bay Company oocupied the disputed
territory of Oregon many years before they explored Southern Oregon. Their busi-
ness lay to the east, and north of the Columbia. In 1827, Jedcdiaii S. Smith, a partner
in the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, entered Oregon from California at the head of
a party of American trappers. The circumstances attending this expedition have been
given at length on pages 118 to 121. The scene of Smith's disaster is located variously
as on Umpqua river near the coast, on Smith river, which serves in its title to perpet-
uate the event, and on various streams further south. Just where it occurred is uncer-
tain. From that time trapping parties of the Hudson's Bay Company roamed
through this region and set their traps on its numerous streams. So great was the
trade which sprung up with the natives that the great company established a fort oii
the Umpqua a few years later, which served for many years as the head(]uarters for
the business in this region. The post was called Fort Umpipia, and stood on the l)ank

400 SOUTHERN OREGON.

opposite the mouth of Elk creek. This was the outpost of civilization in Southern
Oregon. This post was finally abandoned in 1862 and the site is now an immense grain
field. Nothing remains to speak of former days but an aged apple tree, which was
bearing fruit when the first settlers arrived.

The first division of Oregon into districts for purposes of election and local gov-
ernoient, was made July 5, 18-43. At that time all of Oregon south of Yamhill river
and west of the Willamette, and a supposed line running due south from its head-
waters to the California boundary, was designated Yamhill district. All south of
the Anchiyoke and east of the Willamette and the supposed line as far as the
Rocky mountains, was called Champooick district. By this arrangement Douglas
county was cut into two nearly equal parts. The population of these two dis-
tricts was confined to the region north of the Calapooia mountains, all south of
the divide, as well as that vast stretch of unoccupied and almost unknown country lying
between the Cascade and Rocky mountains, was tacked on to these districts simply be-
cause the boundaries of the territory comprehended them, and it was necessary to
include them within the limits of some district. Extensive as they were, and impor-
tant as they subsequently became, they were then of no political consequence whatever,
and it mattered little to what district they belonged or how they were designated.

On the nineteenth of December, 1845, the territory was again subdivided.
Southern Oregon was again cut into two parts by the continuation of a line south from
the Willamette, the western portion, or Yamhill district being bounded north by
Tuality river and Champoeg district by the Clackamas. Three days later a statute
was passed changing the name district to county. On the same day the county of Polk
was created from Yamhill, its northern boundary being nearly the same as at present
and its southern limit the California line. This was done because of the increased
number of settlers in the upper eud of Willamette valley. Two years later the popu-
lation of that section had so increased that two new counties were created. The act of
December 23, 1847, confined Polk to its present limits, and erected all south of Polk
and west of the middle fork of the Willamette and its production to the California line,
into a new county called Benton. Five days later Champoeg county, the name of
which had been changed to Marion, was curtailed, and all south of the Santiam and
east of Benton county, clear to the summit of the Rocky mountains, was made the
county of Linn. In 1846 a party of fifteen men from the Willamette valley explored
the Umpqua region, commanded by Major Thorp. Among them was Philip Peters,
who settled on Deer creek in 1851, where he still resides. Xo immediate settlements
followed this exploring tour.

This was the condition of Douglas county when it was first invaded by citizens of
the United States in search of a home ; divided in its allegiance between the counties
of Linn and Benton, named in honor of those two sturdy giants of the United States
senate who had fought so long, so earnestly and so successfully for the rights of our
country in Oregon, and occupied only by the representatives of that great English cor-
poration which had rendered the battle necessary. It was in June, 1846, that the
exjilorers of the southern emigrant route [see pages 148 and 304] passed through the
county, but it was not until the spring of 184S that the leader of that party, Captain

■*5^^*l>-

DOUGLAS COUNTY. 401

Levi Scott, left his former liome in the Willamette and settled in Si-ott's valley, on Elk-
creek, not many miles from the Hudson's Bay Company's jwst. At the same time his
two sons, William and John, settled near by in Yoncalla valley, as did also Robert and
Thomas Cowan. The next year Jesse Applegate, J. T. Cooper, John Long and —
Jeffery settled in the same neighborhood. Prior to all these settlements was that of
Warren N. Goodell, who located a donation claim on the site of the present town of
Drain, in the year 1847.

In 1850 travel to and from the California mines increased, and pack trains with
loads of goods began to be seen on the trails. The number of settlers materially
increased, especially in the upper end of the county, the majority of the newcomer.s
being from the Willamette valley. Captain Scott went down the Umpqua and laid out
the town of Scottsburg, as a supplying point for the upper country.

There were accessions also from the south, by way of the sea from San Francisco-
The map of Fremont's explorations, which was the one upon which all Americans
relied for their information in regard to Pacific coast geography, indicated the Klamath
as issuing from Klamath lake, and entering the ocean in the vicinity of Rogue river,
the two streams being confounded by the great "Pathfinder." The excitement about
the Trinity mines and the discovery of gold on Klamath river and its affluents, coupled
with the knowledge gained from dear experience that the Klamath was not navigable,
led a number of men to look still further north to the Umpqua as being a river which
could be entered, and on the banks of which could be founded a city which would be
a base of supplies for the mines of Northern California. These men organized under
the name of Winchester, Payne & Co., and dispatched the schooner Samuel liobcrtf^
up the coast in command of Captain Coffin, the expedition being in charge of Peter
Mackey. They passed the Klamath and came to the mouth of Rogue river, and sup-
posing it to be the Umpqua, Mackey landed with two of his party. They were quickly
surrounded by Indians, wdio evinced a hostile intent. The men endeavored to reach
their boats with the purpose of returning to the vessel, but the savages interposed,
crowded around them and pulled their clothing, buttons, etc., in an exceedingly impo-
lite manner. The three men stood back to back in the center of the crowd of savages,
partially defending themselves by pushing their insulters away or knocking them off
with their revolvers, not daring to shoot for fear of the consequences. Seeing their
precarious situation, Captain Coffin moved the vessel closer in shore and discharged m
cannon loaded with nails, in such a manner as to have the contents cut through the
trees over the heads of the savages. The noise and effect were so novel and terrifying
that the Indians fled in a imnic to the seclusion of the dense forest. The men then
went aboard, and the schooner continued its voyage up the coa.st. The Umpijua river
was reached in due time and safely entered. This was the first American vessel to
enter the Umpcjua, and ^wssibly the first vessel of any kind, in spite of the traditions
about a Spanish ship having done so more than a century before.

After a hasty exploration of the river, the party returned to San Francisco with
glowing accounts of the Umpqua, and its adaptability for a port of entry for goods,
and travel to the mines of Northern California. Winchester, Payne ct Co. immedi-
ately fitted out another schooner, the Kate Heath, and dispatched it to the Umpqua
with a party of 100 men, lieaded l>y Wincliestor himself, and containing many men

402 SOUTHERN OREGON.

who have since been closely identified with the development of Southern Oregon,
among them being A. C. Gibbs, later governor of the state. The object of the expe-
dition was to select suitable town sites at favorable points for the transaction of business,
to have them laid off in lots which were to be divided equally among the members of
the company, and to ship to San Francisco timber to be used for piling, for which there
was then an urgent demand. The Kate Heath sailed in September, and soon entered
the mouth of the Umpqua.

As they crossed the bar they were surprised to observe the wreck of a vessel,
which had but recently run upon the sands. This was the Bostonian, which had been
dispatched around Cape Horn by a Boston merchant named Gardiner. The merchan-
dise with which the vessel was loaded was under the charge of George Snelling, a
nephew of Gardiner. In endeavoring to enter the river the Bostonian lost the channel
and was wrecked upon the bar. By much labor the crew managed to save the bulk of
the cargo, and this was taken up the river a few miles and sheltered beneath a canvas
covering made from the sails of the stranded ship. The place thus occupied was
named Gardiner, in honor of the owner of the ship and goods, and on the same spot
now stands the town of Gardiner.

At the entrance of the river, on the north bank, Winchester, Payne & Co. laid
out their first town, which was christened Umpqua City. They passed up the
stream, finding the shipwrecked Yankees in camp at Gardiner. At the mouth of
Smith river a number of men were landed, who began getting out piling timber to be
shipped back to San Francisco upon the return of the vessel. The others continued up
the river to Scottsburg, where they found Captain Levi Scott already in possession of a
town site. They laid out a town adjoining his location and embracing*&. tract gener-
ously donated by him for that purpose. This was the portion of Scottsburg called
the " Lower Town," which succumbed to the power of the flood in the winter of
1861-2, and is now a sandy waste. A number of the jjarty went up the stream to Elk
creek, and laid out the town of Elkton, while Mr. Winchester secured a fine location
still further up the Umpqua, where he founded a town upon which he bestowed his
own name.

Winchester and'the others then returned to the mouth of Smith river, and the
schooner was loaded with piles and spars for her return voyage to San Francisco.
Meanwhile harmony had not prevailed in the company. A misunderstanding arose
between Mr. Winchester and some of his associates. They refused to sail for a long
time, alleging that the bar was too rough to be crossed in safety, and when the schooner
finally arrived in San Francisco with her cargo the time of her contract had expired, and
Winchester, Payne & Co. became bankrupt. The association dispersed, the town sites
were abandoned and the great project came to an inglorious end. The subsequent
history of Umpqua City, Gardiner, Scottsburg, Elkton and Winchester will be found
on another page.

Mr. A. R. Flint, a hale and hearty old gentleman of seventy-six years, a sur-
veyor by profession and the first clerk of Douglas county, still resides in Roseburg.
He thus speaks of his advent into the Umpqua region, and his experiences are given
as an example of the many. Mr. Flint says : " In September, 1850, I came to Oreoon
to lay out the town of Winchestei', on the North Umpqua river. While there I learned

DOUGLAS COUNTY. 403

of the passage of the donation homestead act for ()reg(^n, which inchiced me eventu-
all)^ to take a claim and consider Oregon as my future home. I returned to San Fran-
cisco in the spring of 1851, and came hack with my family in the first steamer that
came into the Umpqua river. From the steamer we took an oj^en boat to Scottshurg.
From here the only means of travel was on horseback, on an Indian trail. On arriv-
ing at Winchester we found John Aiken and family, and Thomas Smith, who together
owned the ferry at that place. We were informed by them that there was not a house
south of that place until we reached Sacramento valley in California. [A mistake, for
Yreka and Scott river mines were then in full blast.] We located and built a small
house there. While at Winchester I went out to see the location on which Roseburg
is now situated. At that time there was an Indian rancheria near the river, on what
is now the western part of the city of Roseburg. Mrs. Flint did not at that time have
courage enough to locate among the Indians, so we abandoned the idea of taking for
our future home the location wdiich we have since made our home for the past twenty-
five years."

The increase of settlements along the Umpqua in 18.30 letl to the establishment
of a county government for their benefit the following winter. The county seat of
Linn was fixed at Albany, and that of Benton at Marysville, subsequently called
Corvallis. These two counties were circumscribed to nearly their pre.sent limits on the
south, while the region between them and California was apportioned between two new
counties called Umpqua and Lane, the latter named in honor of the first governor,
whose name appears so often in this volume. Umpqua county's boundary line began
on the coast at the southwest corner of Benton, and ran east to the dividing ridge of
the Calapooia mountains, followed the ritige to Calapooia creek and down that stream
to its mouth, and thence west to the Pacific. All the remainder of Southern Oregon
south of Benton and Linn belonged to the county of Lane.

In April, 1851, the governor issued a proclamation designating Jesse Applegate's
house in Yoncalla valley. Resin Reed's, Aikin's at Umpqua Ferry, and Scottsville
(Scottsburg), as polling places for the election to select officers for the new county.
The election was held on the second of June, and resulted in the choice of the following
officers : J. W. Drew, representative; J. W. Huntington, clerk ; H. Jacquett, shei-iff;
A. German, treasurer; A. Pierce, assessor; B. J. Grnbbe, J. N. Hull and William
Golden, county commissioners. The total vote was seventy-eight. A. R. Flint received
a large number of votes for representative, and Daniel Wells and E. R. Fisk were well
supported for clei'k.

The condition of that portion of the j)resent county of Douglas is well tlescribt'd in
tlie following extract from a letter to the Slalr.<in<iii, dated at j\It. Yoncalla, July 4, 18.')!.
The correspondent says :

"Our county [Umpqua] is organized, the machinery is set u[i, and it will soon
start. We need internal improvements very much, which it is supjiosed the new
machinery will supply, but we ought not to expect too much. Tlie roads leading to
Scottsburg are as yet but trails and travelers' descriptions of them arc prefaced with
horrid oaths and violent imprecation. Elkton has as yet but a political existence, but
is named as the site of the county seat. It is opposite Fort Umpqua, on the river.
Claims are taken from here to the month of the rivir. Tliose east of Scottsl)urg ti'am

404 SOUTHERN OREGON.

with luxuriant grass, those below are overhung with luxuriant speculation of their
future. As far up as Winchester claims are being improved. Twelve months ago, but
two or three claims had been taken on the river ; now they are all taken. Seottsburg or
Myrtle City, is at the head of navigation, but below it are many prospective towns,
beautifully pictured on paper. There are two ferries on the Umpqua, and a road from
Winchester to Seottsburg. Winchester lies on both sides of the Umpqua river about
five miles above the forks, and is located upon favorable ground, thickly timbered.
General Lane's claim adjoins it on the south. The city plot has been laid out in lots
and is fast becoming a mart of trade. The main road to the Canyon passes through
Winchester. Major Kearney is now exploring for a road east of this, and Jesse Apple-
gate and Levi Scott are with him as guides. They are now near Table Rock on Rogue
river."

The year 1851, saw a marked change in the condition of this region. Many
families came down from the Willamette valley while numerous emigrants came in
direct from the east. Nearly every little valley received from one to half a dozen set-
tlements. From the Calapooias to Rogue river could be seen every few miles the
smoke ascending from the clay chimney of some pioneer's log cabin. The population
became so numerous that a successful effort was made the next winter to secure a sep-
arate county government for the region of the Upper Umpqua, and Myrtle, Cow and
Canyon creeks. By the act of January 6, 1852, Lane county was deprived of all its
territory south of its jiresent limits, by the creation of Douglas county, a concurrent
act, though not passed until the twelfth, establishing Jackson county to embrace all
south of Douglas and Umj^qua counties.

As first created Douglas county's bouudaries were as follows : Commencing at the
mouth of Calapooia creek ; thence following said creek up its main fork to its source ;
thence due east to the summit of the Cascade mountains ; thence running due south to
the summit of the dividing ridge separating the waters of Rogue river from the waters
of the Umpqua ; thence westerly along the summit of said ridge to the summit of the
Coast Range of mountains separating the waters of Coquille and Cones (Coos) rivers
from the Umpqua; thence northerly along the summit of said Coast Range to a point
where the south line of Umpqua county crosses said range ; thence due east along the
south line of Umpqua county to the point of beginning. Election precincts were
designated at Resin Reed's in Winchester, at Knott's in the Canyon, and at Roberts' in
South Umpqua valley. By the act of the seventeenth of the same month the county
seat was located at the town of Winchester.

A clerk and a temporary board of county commissioners were appointed for the
purpose of setting the county machinery in motion. The first meeting of the board of
county commissioners was held at Winchester on the fourth day of April, 1852. On
this occasion F. R. Hill called the body to order and its organization was effected.
Lots were drawn to determine the length of term, and J. E. Danford drew the shorter
term, his ofiicial life expiring after the election to be held two months later, William F.
Perry's ending in the following year and Thomas Smith's in 1854. The first days'
business of the board consisted mainly in granting licenses for the keeping of " groceries "
— some four of which were authorized to transact business at an average rate of $50 per
year. F. R. Hill was appointed sheriff of Douglas county, to hold ofiice until the next

■*«-.

DOUGLAS COUNTY. 405

general election. On the following day the county was divided into precincts, six in
number, known as Calapooya, Winchester, Deer Creek, Roseburg, Looking-glass,
Myrtle Creek, and Canyonville, precincts. These precincts were empowered to clioose
one justice of the peace and one constable, with the exception of the last named which
was allowed two. In the interim the following named gentlemen were appointed to the
justice-ships'. Calapooya, C.Barrett; Winchester, Henry Evans; Deer Creek, W. B.

Skinner ; Looking-glass, H. D. Bryant ; Myrtle Creek, Burnett ; Canyonville.

Messrs. Lockhart and Johnson. The minutes are subscribed by A. R. Flint, first
clerk of the county of Douglas. The commissioners as well as the probate court met
in a room over William J. Martin's store, in Winchester ; and the district court, at its
special terms was held in a room over J. E. Walton's store in the same village. The
rental paid for each room was $3, per day while the same was in use.

The election held the ensuing June for choosing a full set of county officers, was
warmly contested, there being several candidates for every oflSce but that of clerk.
Douglas and Umpqua were included in one council district and elected Captain Levi
Scott to the council, his opponents being Felix Scott and J. W. Drew. The candidates
for the other officers were as follows, the one first named being elected ; representative,
E. J. Curtis and W. J. Martin ; probate judge, S. Fitzhue, H. C. Hale, S. B. Briggs,
G. S. Chapin and S. Gardiner; clerk, A. R.Flint; sheriff, F. R. Hill, D. P. Bai'nes
and F. M. Hill ; (error in ballots) treasurer, George Hannan, G. S. Chapin and Benja-
min Grubbe ; assessor, C W. Smith and Jesse Clayton ; coroner, C. Grover and W. K.
Kilborn ; county commissioners, J. C. Danford, W. T. Perry, Thomas Smith, William
Riddle, C. C. Reed, and W. H. Riddle. The total vote was 163. At the county elec-
tion held a year later the number of ballots cast was increased to 30G, or nearly double

Though Winchester was designated as the county seat and was the largest settle-
ment within the limits of the county, it had a strong rival almost from the first. Four
miles further up the Umpqua Aaron Rose had laid out the town of Roseburg, and
being a wide-awake, energetic man, he began at once to secure for his embryo city the
honors and advantages which accrue to a town possessing the distinction of being a
county seat. Aided by the rapid increase of settlements to the south of Roseburg,
Mr. Rose succeeded finally in securing the passage of the act of December 23, 1853,
providing for the submission of the question of a permanent location of the county
seat to be held on the second Monday in March, 1854. When the day of battle
arrived, Mr. Rose invited the settlers of Looking-glass valley, who aspired to the pos-
session of the coveted honor, to accept of his hospitalities. The enjoyment of his
generosity so worked upon ihe feelings of the guests that they went in a body to the
polls and voted in favor of Roseburg. The loss of the county seat was a sad blow to
Winchester, which was already on the rapid decline as a business point, and a few
years later the whole town was moved bodily to Roseburg, including the L'. S. land
office, which had been established there.

In Umpqua county the county seat was not definitely located for several years.
Court was held sometimes in Elkton and at other times in Scottsburg. In 1854
James F. Levins surveyed a town site at Elkton, consisting of 100 acres, which he
donated to the county for a county seat, and on the thirtieth of the next January au
act was passed by the legislature locating the seat of justice at that place. Coos

406 SOUTHERN OEEGON.

county was created by the act of December 22, 1853, out of the counties of Umpqua
and Jackson, embracing all the land lying between the Coast Eange and the ocean,
and extending from a line eight miles below the mouth of the Umpqua to the Cali-
fornia boundary. At the general election of 1855, the people of Douglas county
voted unfavorably upon a proposition submitted by the act of the twentieth of the
previous January, to annex the northern end of the county to Umpqua. By the act
of December 18, 1856, Camas Prairie was detached from Coos county and annexed to
Douglas.

By 1862 Umpqua county had seriously retrograded. Scottsburg had lost its
trade with the mines, and had faded away to a village, while Elkton had not succeeded
in taking the place of the deposed metropolis. To maintain a county government was
too burdensome, and the difficulty was relieved by the act of October 16, 1862, con-
solidating Umpqua and Douglas counties, with the county seat at Roseburg. An
amendment to the consolidation act was passed October 21, 1864, definitely fixing the
boundary line of Douglas county as follows : " Commencing at the mouth of the Siu-
slaw, on the south bank ; thence following up the south bank of said stream, to a
point fifteen miles west of the main traveled road known as the Applegate road ;
thence southerly to the summit of the California [Calaj^ooia] mountains ; thence east-
ward along the summit of said mountains to the summit of the Cascade range ; thence
southerly along the summit of the Cascade range to the former corner of Douglas
county ; thence continuing southerly along the summit of the Cascade range to the sum-
mit of the dividing ridge between the headwaters of the South Umpqua and the
waters of Rogue river ; thence westei'ly along the summit of said ridge to the summit
of the Coast Range of mountains, separating the waters of Coquille and Coos rivers
from the Umpqua ; thence in a straight line to the southwest corner of township 2()
south, range 9 west, of the Willamette meridian ; thence due north to the summit or
divide between the waters of the Umpqua river and thoserunning to the ocean ; thence
northerly or northwesterly along side summit or divide to a point due west of Loon
lake, at the head of what is called Mill creek; thence in a direct line westerly to the
coast at the mouth of Ten Mile creek ; thence northerly along the coast to the place
of beginning."

The next great local question in Douglas county was that of a division again
into two distinct counties. The tbwn of Oakland had grown up in the northern end
of the county, and, backed by the settlers for miles around, who would find a county
seat more convenient when located at Oakland than at Roseburg, made a strong effort
to secure the coveted prize by the division of the county. An act was i^assed by the
legislature on the sixteenth of October, 1868, providing for a special ballot on that
subject at the geuei-al election to be held on the third of the next month. All north
of the main fork of the Umpqua and a line running from the junction of that stream
with the South Umpqua due west to the line of Coos county, was to be called Umpqua
county, with Oakland as the county seat. At the same time the people of the
proposed new county were to elect county officers, who should enter upon the discharge
of their duties in case the vote of the whole county favored the division. The majority
of the voters decided that such division was unnecessary, and Douglas county escaped
the threatened division. On the twenty-first of October an act was passed submitting

DOUGLAS COUNTY. 4,17

the question of the location of the count}- seat in thai portiun of the county wliic-Ii
would still bear the name of Douglas, and Eoseburg, jMyrtle Creek, Canvonville and
Kound Prairie were designated as candidates. This act was not to take effect if the
vote of the county was unfavorable to the proposed division, and since that ])roposi-
tion was voted down the question of a new county seat disappeared with it.

By the act of October 19, 1878, the boundaries between Coos and Douglas counties
were more closely defined, and again it was found necessary to designate these with still
more minuteness by the act of October 16, 1882. The exact boundaries given by the
statute are as follows : Beginning on the shore of the Pacific ocean, at the township line
between townships 22 south and 23 south ; thence east along said line to the section line
between sections 3 and 4 of township 23 south, range 10 west; thence south along said line
to the south bountlary of said township ; thence east to the northeast corner of township
24 south, range 10 west ; thence south to the southeast corner of said township ; thence
east to the section line between sections 3 and 4, township 25 south, range U west ;
thence south to the south boundary of township 26 south, range 9 west ; thence east
to the southeast corner of said township ; thence south to the southeast corner of town-
ship 28 south, range 9 west ; thence west to the section line between sections 3 and 4,
township 29 south, range 9 west ; thence south to the south boundary of said township;
thence west to the southwest corner of said township ; thence due south to the summit
of the ridge dividing the waters of Rogue river from the Umpqua, which is the south-
east corner of Coos county. From this point the county line as it exists at present
follows the old boundaries defined in the act of October 21, 1864. to tlie ocean at the
mouth of the Suislaw.

The growth of Douglas county has been one of steady development from the tlay
when the first settlement was made until the present time. There have been no spas-
modic changes, but the county has been gradually built up by the energy and persis-
tent industry of the people. There was one era, however, which was marked by more
rapid progress than any other, and that was the few years immediately following the
construction of the (Jregon and California railroad to Roseburg in 1872. The exten-
sion of the road through the county southward has stimulated industry and business
in that section, and the flattering prospect of a road to Coos bay is producing a similar
effect throughout the county generally. The indications are that Douglas county has
entered upon an era of prosperity far greater than any before enjoyed, during which
its population, wealth, business, and products of all kinds will be largely increased.

The following statistics of the county's assessable property speak elo(]uently of the
value and steadily increasing development of its resources. The total taxable proj)erty,
wliich consists of the gross assessed valuation less the legal deductions for indebtedness
and exemptions, was as follows for the past thirty years: 1855, #908,456 ; population,
587; 1856,1679,000; 1857, $454,796; 1858, |1,406,226; 1859, .*1,570,6<)0 ; 1860,
$1,398,752; population, 3,091; 1861, $987,108; 1862, $815,002 ; ISi;:!, .^1,0.>7.156 ;
1864, $1,420,602; 1865, $1,606,440; 1866, $1,423,504; 18(i7, $1,243,704; 18(;,s,
$1,476,500; 1869, $1,474,500 ; 1870, $1,454,933 ; 1871, $1,550,995; 1872, $2,091.-
933; 1873, $3,366,013; 1874, $2,745,520; 1875, $1,910,791; p.ipulatiim, 6,1-17;
1876, $1,862,045; 1877, $1,997,565, 1878, $2,042,275; 187!», $2,1311.118; 1881,
$2,419,750; 1882, $2,349,210; 1883, $3,087,564. The following -summary of tlic

408 , SOUTHEEN OREGON.

assessment roll of 1883, gives a good insight into the present condition of Douglas
county :

DESCEIPTIOX. XO. TOTAL ^'ALUE.

Acres of land 504,366 $1,867,152

Town lots 1,233 250,375

Improvements 416,930

Merchandise and implements 377,595

Money, notes, accounts, shares of stock, etc 1,124,495

Household furniture, carriages, watches, etc 120,020

Horses and mules 4,211 162,370

Cattle 5,428 131,060

Sheep 117,753 180,745

Swine 11,467 26,215

Gross value of property $4,656,95 7

Indedtedness '. $1,292,743

Exemptions 276,650— $1,569,393

Total taxable property $3,087,564

Number of polls, collected 610

" not " 962— 1,572

The number of acres of land assessed in 1882 was 486,516, valued at $1,597,300,
showing an increase in the assessed acreage of the county of 17,850 acres, and $269,-
850 in valuation.

4

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Birds Eye View of R

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IJRG.DOUGLASCO.
I

I

i

CHAPTER XLIX.

ROSEBURG

Settlement of Aaron Rose— His Trading Post— First Called Deer Creek —Secures the County Seat First
Business Men— County Jail and Court House— The School House -Winchester Absorbed by Roseburg -
Roseburg and Coos Bay Road— Arrival of the Railroad— Roseburs; Incorporated— Burning of the Jails Fire
Department— Brick Buildings -Business Enterprises— Chmate — Extension of the O. & C. R. R. -Roseburg
and Coos Bay R. R.— Wool and Grain Shipments— Generosity of Mr. Rose— Churches and Societies -Needs
of the City— Newspapers -Noted Men who Hail from Roseburg.

AVhen the northwest coast of the United States was little less than a howling
wilderness and the strong handed pioneer was forcing the light of civilization onward
to the western sea, Aaron Rose, a man of medinra statnre, iron will and nerves of
steel, came jonrneying from the forests of Michigan, seeking a quiet home in Oregon.
He left nothing behind him to attract his gaze from the setting sun. His family and
effects were conveyed along with him in the usual prairie vehicle, moved by the usual
steady, stubborn oxen. After many days of toilsome travel in crossing the Great
American Desert, and climbing and descending the Rocky and Sierra Nevada ranges,
when the Siskiyous were successfully passed and the famous Cow creek canyon was in
the rear, on the twenty-third day of September, 1851, he found himself looking with
admiration upon the small valley at the junction of the South Umpqua river and Deer
creek.

Mr. Rose saw, here, the realization of his dreams and claimed, as a donation from
the government, the land upon which Roseburg now stands. He built him a clap-
board shanty of sufficiently ample dimensions, near the place where the center of the
city now is, and engaged in selling to travelers, teamsters and packers, who were very
numerous in those days, such things as they needed. He also engaged in the business
of farming and stock raising. Uncle Aaron, as he is familiarly called, seems to have
thrived and prospered well in his mercantile and other pursuits, notwithstanding the
fact that he sometimes mrcd money by taking his customers' notes for less than half
the amount they owed him — and he can show you some of the notes to-day, still uni)aid.
The Indians of the Umpqua and Calapooia tribes were all around him. but a friendly
relationship always existed between him and them. He had one of them in his service,
known far and wide as " Rose's Jim," who remained with him for years. The neigh-
liors, within a radius of several )niles, were few. W. T. Perry located on what is now
known as the Bushy place, across Deer creek and just north of the city. Phillip
Peters, still an active man, resided some six miles away, engaged in cattle raising and
farming. Jesse Roberts, also cattle raiser and farmer, lived only a few miles away,
and John Kelly worried the patient backs of his mules with the complaining pack
saddle, and awoke the ready echoes with his lusty shout, in the immediate vicinity.
There were others, also, but tliey wei-e few.

410 SOUTHERN OREGON.

In 1852, there was a considerable immigration to Douglas county, and Roseburg,
or Deer creek as it was then called, began to assume somewhat larger proportions,
since which time it has steadily grown, de^jending solely upon its natural advantages^

In 1853, Bradbury imjiorted the first stock of general merchandise and opened

the first regular store in Roseburg. His stock was ample and well selected, and his
success marked. He was the fore-runner of a long list of suceessful merchants, some
of whom are still in business here, while others are gone, and a few have ceased their
labors forever. Mr. Rose lost no opportunity of advertising his proposed town, and
used both his energies and his means with a generous hand to encourage enterprising
and wealthy men to make their homes therein. It is intimated that the immense
majority by which Roseburg was chosen as the county seat of Douglas county in April.
1854, was due to his hospitality and diplomacy, in some degree, at least. He donated
three acres of land and $1,000 toward building a court house for the county, and the
court house was built and the money expended under his direction. It was a wooden
building and served its purpose for years, but, at this writing, is doing service as a store
room and tinshop for R. S. and J. C. Sheridan. The county jail which accommodated
the prisoners of those days was somewhat unique. It was built of logs, not handsome
but secure. There was no door opening from the first floor, but the means of ingress
was furnished by a trap door in the office of a justice of the peace who occupied the
second story. Instead of sending the prisoners up, his honor was accustomed to send
them down for so many days, and there was small chance of escape between the sen-
tence and the execution thereof. It was from this house, and out of this trap door^
that Judge Lynch took the only man upon whom he ever passed judgment in Roseburg,
and hanged him on the rafters of the Deer creek bridge. One day, however, this
primitive jail was discovered to be on fire and about all that was saved were two while
men and two Chinamen, all the occupants at the time.

In 1855 began the Indian war, and Roseburg was the central point for the North-
ern Battalion, which formed and procured its supplies here. About this time the town
first began to be known as Roseburg. The population was steadily increasing, and
houses thickly dotted the little valley and hill sides. Business was increasing and its
future was secured. Uncle Aaron did not cease his efforts, but was always first in con-
tributing to proposed improvements. He was always ready to donate lots to churches,
and gave the land upon which our public school building is now situated, and also
$1,400 towards building the house. About 1857 the U. S. Land Office was built at
Winchester — a two-story building which was afterward moved to Roseburg, bodily — and
this excited the people of Roseburg to outdo the rival town by erecting a school house
of grander proportions than the Land Office. They accordingly erected the three-
story edifice which vibrates to the tread of their district school children to this day.
It was rnore magnificent than necessary, but it fully satisfied their ambition and drew
heavily on their purses. The two rival houses, one built at Winchester and one in
Roseburg, some four or five miles apart, now gaze ujjou each other at a stone's throw,
one used as an Odd Fellows' Temple and the other never changed. These were the
finest buildings in Southern Oregon at the time of their construction. In about 1859
Roseburg's attractions became so great that Winchester was not able to resist them, and
was rolled over the intervening space, and the two bscame one. The Land Office,

DOUGLAS COUNTY. 411

aliove mentioned, the store of Floed & Co., just as it appears to-day, with a little change;
A. K. Flint's old store, now on Washington street, between Main and Jack.-^on, and
Mrs. Moffit's residence, near the banks of the South Umpqua river, with others, were
moved bodily from Winchester and placed in Koseburg, where they now stand. In a
short time the once busy little town on the bank of the North Umpqua river had en-
tirely disappeared, and it lives only in the memory of its former inhabitants and the
pages of the county records. The music of the ringing anvil is hushed, the jingle of
bar glasses and gold has ceased, the shrill cry of the hoodlum unheard, and the busy
merchant no more presents his little bill on Monday morning, on the streets of Win-
chester. In the years following, when the eastern and southern portions of our com-
mon country were bathed in blood and convulsed with civil war, the fateful influence
was strongly felt even in these outskirts of the world. During all this time Rosoburg
was the radiating center and headquarters of all parties. Men seemed to take a
deeper interest in the issues presented, if that were possible, and talked louder and
more threateningly, than did their brothers at the seat of war. But nothing retarded
the steady growth of the future city, and all things conspired to build her up. In
1869 steps were taken to\vard building a wagon road from Roseburg to the head of
tide water on Coos bay, and a joint stock company was formed for that jJurpose. Like
all enterprises, this one found favor in the eyes of some persons, and was denounced
as impracticable by others. The opposition claimed, in this instance, that the road
would never pay for itself on account of the large amount of money which would be
required to build it They also alleged that nature had made a natural highway from
Roseburg to the sea ; that the Umpqua river only needed a few thousand dollars ex-
pended upon it to become a navigable stream for boats. The route to the seaboard, l)y
way of the river, was, as has been related on page 385, demonstrated to be a failuri',
and the Coos bay wagon road enterprise moved on to success. Iron, giant powder,
muscle and money, dug, blasted out, graded and paid for the present road to Coos City,
which, though for a long time somewhat precarious and unreliable, is at last a success,
and it is possible to ride very comfortably in a wagon over a fair mountain road from
Roseburg to the sea. Most of the former stockholders in the road are prominent busi-
ness men in Roseburg, and deserve the success which they achieved and the coin bene-
fits which they received when, in the beginning of 1883, they sold their road, fran-
chise, etc., to C. Crocker. In 1872 the most important event for Roseburg occurred
when the O. & C. railroad track was laid across her boundaries. It was not a ([uestion
whether the railroad should come through Roseburg or 'lOt. It was bound to come, on
account of the lay of the land. While the finishing of the railroad to this point w;ls
a matter of vast importance to the town, the ceasing of the work at her gates was no
less so. Up to that time Roseburg had been only a way station on the O. & C. Stage
road, and the commerce of the county amounted to very little, or nothing, all told.
Very little grain was raised except for flour, feed and seed, and the wool clii) was
greatly smaller than it has since become. The only means of transportation were the
heavy wagons usually drawn by hor.^es or mules, over a mountain road to the Willam-
ette valley. The beautiful and fertile valleys in which Douglas county abounds, lying
secluded among her magniiicent hills, were used principally for stock range, when
their possibilities were much givater. She was, as it might be said, a perfect electrical

412 SOUTHERN OEEGON.

machine, complete iu all its parts, with the poles of her battery not joined. But when
the iron rails were laid and the shrill whistle of the locomotive waked the echos iu her
mountain fastnesses, the connection was made and all the machinery felt the influence
and moved in perfect harmony. Eoseburg l)ecame a center of commerce for the country.
Warehouses were built at the depot, and the granaries and wool rooms became more
and more crowded each year, until the first warehouses became too small and had
to be increased or replaced by new and larger ones, with all the modern improvements
for preparing produce for the market. Jackson and Josephine counties received their
goods, wares and merchandise at Roseburg, thus increasing the business of the city and
helping to swell the tide of her prosperity.

Roseburg was incorporated by the act of October o, 1872. At the first election,
which was held the eleventh of the same mouth, the following ofiicers were elected :
Trustees, C. Gaddis, afterward chairman ; George Haynes, S. Hamilton, William I.
Friedlander, and T. P. Sheridan ; Recorder, Andrew Jones ; Marshal, L. C Roden-
berg ; Treasurer, E. Livingston. The taxes of the city have never been burdensome
— not over three mills — and the ordinances passed by the boards are salutary, compre-
hensive and not oppressive. As is true of all young towns, so it happened that the
houses of Roseburg were nearly all built of wood, and the majority of them remain so
to this day ; yet losses by fire have been remarkably infrequent. Not a half dozen
fires have been known where any considerable damage has been done. We have
already mentioned the first jail, which succumbed to the fire fiend. The one which
was erected to replace it was also destroyed by fire. This was built of brick, with
iron cells for prisoners, and stood southeast of the present court house. Several times
prisoners effected escapes from it. In the spring of 1882, a man had been incarcerated
therein, having committed some petty offense, and was awaiting his trial. One morn-
ing, just about daylight, the jail was discovered to be on fire, and a crowd soon col-
lected to render what assistance was possible to the poor fellow within the iron walls.
It appeared, however, that the fire had been raging w^ithin for some time, for the
building was so hot that no human being could apjjroach near enough to even see
what had happened on the inside. All that could be done was to stand at a respect-
ful distance and wait for the fire to complete its work. Later in the day, when the
roof, floor, and other woodwork had been consumed, and the blackened walls sur-
rounded the curled and twisted sheets of iron of which the cage had been composed,
an entrance was effected. Nothing resembling a human form could be discovered, but,
just at the bottom of the iron door, and immediately under an opening therein, was a
small heap, which, upon examination, proved to be all that was left of the recent
prisoner. He had escaped, and all that remained to indicate that he had been there
was a crisp and blackened lump which Avould hardly have been taken for what it was
in any other place or under any other circumstances. What was left was decently
buried by the county, and the place which knew him last, knows neither him nor the
old jail any more forever. The jail which the county has at present is an elegant
little two-story brick building, with the most approved, impregnable cells, and an
airy corridor running around. It is both comfortable and safe. On the upper floor
are offices, neat and well ventilated. The county court house, a substantially l>uilt
and commodious and conveniently arranged structure stands on the same block.

f

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2^^^-^^-^^^

DOUGLAS COUNTY. il3

Though tliere never has been a devastating fire iu Roseburg, yet, until last year,
there had been no tire company of any possible efficiency in the city — a few ladders and
buckets constituting the only available ap2)aratus for extinguishing fires. The fire
fiend had every opportunity for glorious work, but did not seem disposed to take it-
In the spring of 1883, however, steps were taken to organize a fire company, and, ou
the tenth day of May, the Board of Directors passed an ordinance creating the fire
department for the city of Roseburg. There are two companies composing the depart-
ment— the Rescue Hook and Ladder Company, No. 1, and the Urapqua Hose Com-
jiany. No. 1. The city has built a large reservoir on the hill east of town, some 150
feet higher than the houses, and laid iron pipes therefrom down Washington street to
Marks & Co.'s building, with occasional hydrants at convenient points. It has also
pi'ocured several hundred feet of hose, and provided, at large expense, a handsome and
thoroughly furnished hook and ladder truck.

In a city which is mostly comprised of wooden buildings, it is not amiss to l^rieliy
mention those more subtautially constructed. The first brick house in Roseburg was
built by Mr. T. P. Sheridan, in 1859, to be used for a store, and is still owned by
members of the same family. It is 20x40 feet, two stories high, and is situated on the
east side of Jackson street, between Douglas and Washington. It was considered a
wonderful building at that time. The second was built by Dr. S. Hamilton, in the year
1866, at the southeast corner of Washington and Jackson streets. In 1874, was completed
the brick house where the postoffice still is, and built by H. C. Stanton, who still occupies
it. Next in order came the handsome iron-front brick of S. Marks & Company, in 1878,
situated ou the northwest corner of Washington and Jackson streets. It is 36x100
feet, two stories high, and cost about |"20,000. Next came Dr. Hamilton's new drug
store, adjoining his former one, built in 1878. Then came the elegant cut-stone-front
brick store of Abraham, Wheeler & Co., built in 1879, on the southwest corner of Oak
and Jackson streets. The dimensions of this block are 45x90 feet, and two tall stories
high — the largest in the city. Mr. E. M. Moore put up a single story brick store for
Caro Bros., next to the postoffice, in 1^80. Last, but not least, in importance, was the
Douglas County Bank, on the east side of Jackson street, in 1883.

There are, taken all together, seven general mercantile houses, two hardware stores^
each having a tin shop attached, two flouring mills, three hotels, one bank, three black-
smith shops, two drug stores, four variety stores, two jewelers, three millinery shojis,
two butcher shops, two livery stables, two cabinet shops, three grocery stores, two
restaurants, twelve saloons, two barber shops, two bakeries, six physicians, two dentists,
ten lawyers, one foundry, one brewery, one photograph gallery, two shoe-maker shops,
one marble cutter, and several wash houses. The above is not a bad record of business
for a city containing but one thousand inhabitants, all told. TheUnitedStatesLandOffice
is at Roseburg. It was moved, as before remarked, from Winchester in 1859. The
old land office building still stands under an immense willow tree, on the north side of
Douglas street, between Rose and Jackson. In 1879 the land office was removed to its
elegant quarters in the brick block of S. Marks & Co., and the old building is valuable
for little else, now, than a relic of bygone days. The officers who have presided in the
land office are as follows: L. F. Mosher, Register, and Colonel Martin, Receiver; John
Kellv and Mi". Briggs ; W. R. Willis and B. Hermann ; W. R. Willis and J. C. Fuller-

414 SOUTHERN OEEGON.

ton. All of whom, except one, are no longer connected with the office. The j^i'esent
officers are Hon. W. F. Benjamin and Hon. J. C. Fullerton, both of whom are affiible
and competent gentlemen. The United States Signal Office was established in 1876,
and placed in charge of Sergeant John Dascomb. Sergeant J. J. Nanery is now in
charge. The barometer is just 537 feet above the level of the sea, and an inspection of
the records there shows the following entries for 1883 : Mean of highest observations
of barometer, 30.052; mean of lowest, 28.839 ; annual mean, 29.539. Mean of highest
thermometer readings during the year, 93° ; mean of lowest, 9.4 ; mean for the year
51.8°. Total rainfall for "rainy" Oregon during 1883 was 22.48 inches. [For previous
years see page 300.] We challenge the world to show a more salubrious climate, a
more desirable range of barometer or thermometer, or more favorable conditions gen-
erally for health and happiness. Aaron Kose could not have selected a more favorable
place for a city. The Post office is in the brick store of H. C Stanton, the post master.
In the spring of 1882, the Oregon & California Railroad Company began the
extension of their road south, and it was not many months before the terminus ^t Rose-
burg was a thing of the past. In 1883, however, the company built a three-stall round
house just south of the depot, and made this the end of a division. The Oregon and
California stage, with its six milk white steeds, and heavy loads of freight, mail and passen-
gers, and the liimbering freight wagons, with their long teams of horses and jingling
bells, are now but a memory in Roseburg. While it is true that Roseburg
has lost the extreme Southern Oregon trade, it is generally believed that what she
has lost by the extension is a small affair, compared to what she will gain by the build-
ing of the Roseburg and Coos bay railroad, which, it is predicted, will, at least, be com-
menced the present year. We join them in the hope that the prediction may be veri-
fied. The depot building, and depot warehouses — and we hope the company will soon
give a better depot — and four large private warehouses are on the depot grounds. They
are owned by the estate of J. C. Floed, the Grange Business Association, Abraham ct
Company, and S. Marks & Company. Immense quantities of grain and wool are shipped
from these warehouses yearly. In the year 1883, which was not an extraordinary
year by any means, the following amounts were shipped :

Wool — lbs. Grain — bu.

Grange Business Association 291,088 o.i.OUU

S. Marks & Co 162,82-2 4.\7U3

Abraham & Co 120,000 2.i,000

Total 573,910 12o,7u3

When the rich bottom lands of Douglas county shall be farmed on scientific prin-
ciples, even larger warehouses will be needed at Roseburg, and the above large figures
will be multiplied. This, of course, does not represent the entire exports from Rose-
burg, but will suffice to indicate how the commerce has grown from the barter of Uncle
Aaron Rose, in his clapboard shanty. The old gentleman has never ceased to give to
objects which might be a benefit to Roseburg. He gave the depot grounds to the rail-
road company and the right of way over his land, and sold them, for a song almost^
gravel to ballast their road. Long ago he moved from his first location, and now occu-
pies a neat and comfortable little cottage on the top of an eminence south of town^
from which the whole valley can easily be seen. He has ample means to live easily

DOUGLAS COUNTY. 415

aiul no longer worries himself with the cares of business. May his declining years
continue to flow gently and peacefully on until they mingle with timeless eternity.

There are five church edifices in the city — the Metiiodist Episcopal South, on
Washington street, between Rose and Stephens ; the Roman Catholic, on Washington
street, north of Main ; the Episcopal, on Main street, between Washington and Oak ;
the Methodist Episcopal, on Main street, between Oak and Lane ; and the Presbyterian,
on Rose street, south of Oak.

Umpqua R. A. Chapter No. 11., was organized September 10, 1874, agreeable to
a petition of the following named Royal Arch Masons: Thomas H. Cox, G. M. Stroud,
Asher Marks, John Lehnherr, Louis Belfils, N. P. Bunnell, Thos. J.Beale, J. J. Com-
stock, A. G. Brown ; when the following named companions were empowered to
act as the Chief Officers: T. H. Cox, as H. P. ; A. G. Brown, as K. ; N. P. Bunnell, as
S., the temporary organized Chapter continued its labors until May 25, and at the June
session of the Grand Chapter, a charter was granted, and in September of the same
year the Grand Chapter officers convened in Roseburg, and in due form organized and
consecrated Umpqua Chai^ter, and the following were elected as the principal officers:
Thos. H. Cox as H. P.; X. P. Bunnell as K.; Thos. J. Beale as S.; H. Abraham as T.;
W. I. Friedlander as Sec. Up to that date 24 members were enrolled. The Chapter
now has 50 members.

Laural Lodge, No. 13, A. F. & A. M., was chartered June 18, 1857. First officers :
John Dillard, W. M. ; James J. Patton, S. W. ; James Odle, J. W. ; C. P. Stratton, S.
The present officers are: Binger Hermann, W. M.; A. A. Engles, S. W.; R. M. Davis,
J. W.; J. P. Duncan, Sec. The present membership is 51. Meets Wednesday on or
immediately preceding the full moon of each month.

Union Encampment, No. t», I. O. O. F., meets on the first and third Tuesdays of
each month.

Philetarian Lodge, No. 8, I. O. O. F., was organized by Samuel E. May on tlie
ninth of February, 1859, with Rufus Mallory, J. H. Choyuski, J. Q. Vauderborlo,
Joel Thorn, C. Gaddis and E. S. Kearney as charter members. The first officers were :
Rufus Mallory, N. G. ; J. Q. Vanderborlo, V. G. ; C. Gaddis, Sec. ; Joel Thorn,
Treas. The only one of these gentlemen now residing in Roseburg is Mr. Gaddis, and
lie also assisted in the institution of Chenieketa Lodge, No. 1, the first to be organized
in Oregon. The present mem))ershii) is thirty, and the officers for the current term are :
A. C. Marks, N. G. ; W. H. Moore, V. G. ; E. G. Hursh, Sec. ; L. Belfils, Treas.

Roseburg Lodge, No. 16, A. O. U. W., was organized August 5, 1880, by Warren
S. White, of Portland, with thirteen charter members and the following officers : J. M.
F. Brown, P. M. W. ; J. W. Strange, M. W. ; P. Benedict, G. F. ; C. W. Castle, O. ;
R. Nowcomb, Reed. T.; S. Roademan, Fin.; Henry Gates, Recv. ; C. Y. Benjamin,
(J. ; J. F. W. Sanbert, I. G. ; S. B. Higley, O. G. ; J. .M. F. Brown, M. E. The pres-
int membership of the lodge is forty-five.

Roseburg Lodge, No. 387, I. O. G. T., was organized September 8, 1882, by Dr.
E. Jessup, G. AV. C. T., with twenty-four charter members. The present officers are :
W. F. Owens, W. C. T. ; Mrs. A. Jones, W. V. T. ; H. S. Strange, W. S. ; P. :\rat-
t'liews, W. F. S.; Mamie Jones, W. T. ; A. W. Slemm.ms, W. M. ; W. P. Webb, W.
C; C. Gaddis, D. D.

416 SOUTHERN OREGON.

Douglas county District Lodge, I. O. G. T., was organized by Will C. King, G. W.
C T. January 23, 1884, with fifteen members, and the following officers : H. Rogers,
D. C. T. ; Mrs. B. A. Cathey, D. V. T. ; W. F. Benjamin, D. S. ; H. S. Strange, D.
F. S. ; Lillie Moon, D. T. ; H. P. Webb, D. C. ; Eobert Cheshire, D. M.

Having enumerated the industries carried on in Roseburg, it may not be out of
place to mention one or two very desirable possibilities. There is a sore need of con-
venient water facilities, both for fire and for domestic and business isurposes. The wells
are too warm in summer and catch too much surface water in winter. The South
Umpqua flows by upon the west and Deer creek comes sparkling out of the hills on the
east. An engine in the one or a hydraulic ram in the other would furnish the city
with an unlimited supply of pure and pleasant water. Yet no one has taken the nec-
essary steps to accomplish either result. Immense quantities of wool are annually
shipped from Roseburg, manufactured in other places and brought back in the form of
blankets and cloth. This is altogether unnecessary, for a splendid dam has been thrown
across the South Umpqua just south of town, and would, for a small consideration, fur-
nish ample power to drive innumerable spindles and looms. But nobody seems dis-
posed to furnish the spindles and looms and the power is lost, except the small force
which drives the wheel of the flouring mill. There is no place where such business
ventures might be followed to more certain success than in Roseburg.

The first newspaper started in Roseburg was the Umpqua Gazette, about 1860 — a
Democratic, Breckenridge and Lane sheet, which made the campaign of that year
lively. It was followed by the Ensign, a Republican journal, in 1868. The papers
which are known and remembered to-day are the Plaindealer, inaugurated as a Demo-
cratic sheet in 1870, but fell into the hands of Republicans in 1874. It still remains
a Republican journal of the straightest sect. The Independent was the organ of the
party of that name in 1874. It continued to be supported by former Independents
for some time after the party was practically disorganized, but, in 1882, was sold to
some Democratic gentlemen and brought into line for that party. It still advocates
Jeffersonian principles. There never has been in Roseburg a spicier, newsier sheet
than the Democratic Star, inaugurated by Flett and Mosher, in the year 1877, and
continued afterward by Floed & Mosher. But it was wrecked upon a ledge of bank-
ruptcy, and its type and material were added to the stock of its former opponents.
There have been sporadic sheets, generally dailies, and usually the evidences of warm
opposition or political enthusiasm. Their young lives were invariably crushed out
before they had attained sufficient importance to demand a place in history.

Roseburg is proud of her sons who have gone forth from her gates to battle with
the world. She has very seldom had occasion to do aught but glory in their victories.
Their names are well known. First of all, she was proud of General Joseph Lane,
though he was a warrior, in every sense of the word, before Roseburg was dreamed of
But he hallowed Roseburg with his presence for many a year, and she will ever keep
his memory green, though his noble old head has bowed to the behest of Death and
lies resting away the weariness of life in the tomb prepared under his own observation.
Of her sons, Rufus Mallory taught school in Roseburg and studied law there under
Ex-Governor S. F. Chadwick. The record of these men is too well known to burden
the reader by repeating it, as are those of IMosher, Lane, Gibbs, Stratton, and Watson.
They, and others, have all reflected great credit upon their mother city.

i

CHAPTER L.

LOCALITIES SOUTH AND SOUTHWEST OF ROSEBURG.

Looking-Glass—Flournoy -Happy Valley— Ten-Mile — Camas Vgjley— Civil Bend and Dillard Myrtle Creek
Missouri Bottom— Cow Creek Valley and Riddle— Glendale.

Looking-glass is the name of an important locality lying west and southwest ot
Roseburg, and some ten miles distant. The name is apjilied to a creek, the valley and
the small post-office town. The Roseburg and Coos bay road passes through the valley,
and the village lies at the junction of that road with another which runs down the
valley. The village is situated in section 36, township 27, range 7 west. The valley
lies mainly in that townshij) and in township 28, and includes quite a large area of
cultivable land lying upon the creek, which, including its main branch, the Olalla,
is some thirty miles long. The Looking-glass jiroper, rises in the mountains north-
west of the village, in the western ^lart of township 27, and flows southeastwardly to
the South Umpqua, emptying into the latter stream some eight miles south of Rose-
bui-g. The course of the Olalla is from the south, uniting with Looking-glass a mile
or two from the village. Looking-glass valley, or prairie, as it is occasionally styled,
obtained its name as follows : In 1847 a company of men was organized in Polk
county, near the Luckiamute, to explore Southern Oregon. Colonel Ford, H. B.

Flournoy, Thorp, and others belonged to this band. Going as far south as Rogue

river, they returned ; and traversing this valley they were impressed with its beauty,
and Mr. Flournoy remarked that it looked like a looking-glass, upon which it received
its present name. The greater part of the valley land is good, producing regular and
certain crops. Northwest stands INIount Arrington, 4,900 feet high, one of the most
prominent peaks of the Coast Range, and so named by Evans, a geologist who visited
the country in 1853. The first white settler in Looking-glass valley was Daniel
Huntley, who came in the fall of 1851. During the previous year H. B. Flournoy
had settled in the romantic and lovely valley which bears his name, and these two
were almost the only residents of a considerable tract of country. The latter jiossessed
the distinction of being the first white settler west of the South Umptpia river. Later
came Milton Huntley, Joseph Huntley, Robert Yates, J. and E. Sheffield, who settled
in Looking-glass in 1852. By the fall of the next year nearly the whole valley was
covered by donation claims. There are nine sections of level plow land in the valley,
all of which was taken up. The country west of the South Umpqua and embracing
Looking-glass, Olalla, Ten Mile and Camas suffered considerably in the Indian wars.
In 1855 there was a body of Umpqua Indians living on Looking-glass creek, three
miles below the present village of Looking-glass. They numbered sixty-four persons,
and were supposed to be under the care of J. ]\r. Arrington. On the breaking out ot

418 SOUTHERN OREGON.

hostilities to the southward, the settlers of the Looking-glass began to observe symp-
toms of uneasiness among the Indians, and determined to strike the first blow them-
selves. They organized themselves, and attacked the camas-eaters, killing eight of
them, and drove the remainder to the mountains. These fugitives afterwards joined
the hostile tribes on Rogue river. The attack was made October 28, 1855. Joining
the other Indians, these now ill-disj30sed and perhaps justly revengeful savages came
back with a strong party the following December, and burned houses and destroyed
property from South Umpqua to South Ten Mile, where they were stayed in their
work of desolation. The settlers uniting and being joined by volunteers from various
localities, met the aborgines and fought what is known as the Battle of Olalla. In this
affray James Castleman was wounded, it being the only casualty sustained by the
whites, while the Indians lost one of their principal men, Cow Creek Tom, and seven
or eight more died of wounds received in the fight, according to the Indians' own
account. This fight took place on the land now belonging to W. R. Wells, Esq. The
result was a complete rout of the Indians and recovery of the stock that they had cap-
tured. Later, on the twelfth of April, 1856, a company of " minute men " was organ-
ized, by authority of the j^roclamation issued by Governor George L. Curry on the
eleventh of March. The company was organized at the school house in Looking-glass,
and contained the following members : David Williams, captain ; William H. Stark,
first lieutenant; William Cochran, first sergeant; Privates, James M. Arrington, John
P. Applegate, Willis Alden, Samuel W. K. Applegate, John P. Boyer, Levi Ballard,
William Cochran, Roland Flournoy, Samuel S. Halpain, John H. Hartin, Nathaniel
Huntley, Daniel Huntley, Joseph Huntley, Alex. M. Johnson, Fred Mitchell, Hilry
A. Mitchell, Franklin Mitchell, Edmund F. McNall, Ambrose Newton, William H.
Stark, Abbott L. Todd, Franklin White, George W. Williams, David Williams, Jeffer-
son Williams, Milton H. Williams, Peter W. Williams.

The village of Looking-glass was laid out in the spring of 1873. The proprietors
of the land were P. W. Williams east of the main road, and H. Crow and Isom Cran-
field on the west side. The first building ei'ected was a store built by the firm of
Hirschfield and Zelinsky. In August, 1876, W. Cochran bought this store and has
retained it ever since. After the store followed a blacksmith shop, owned by Wiley
Pilkington, a wagonmaking shop by J. H. Hopkins, a hotel by Mrs.C. C. Brown, then
a two-story school house, twenty-six by sixty feet in size — a very creditable building.
The upper story contains a large hall used by the Grange and Good Templars, and by
various sects and societies. The Good Templars still keep up an active organization
and have done a great deal to humanize and refine the neighborhood. Thanks to their
influence but one saloon exists within the precincts of Looking-glass and that receives
but faint support. Mirror Lodge, No. 57 I. O. O. F. was organized in Looking-glass
June 3, 1876 by District Deputy Grand Master J. C. Fullerton. Officers: H. P. Wat-
kins, N. G.; J. H. Hartin, V. G.; Hayman Zelinsky R. S.; William Cochran, Treasurer.

Looking-glass now [1883] contains one store, dealing in general merchandise,
two livery stables, one hotel, one variety store, one blacksmith shop, one wagon shop,
a grist mill and fifteen or twenty residences. A daily mail adds to the conveniences
of life.

DOUGLAS COUNTY.. 419

111 the vicinity of Looking-glass prairie there are the out-croppiiigs of coal seams.
Several of the seams have been explored to more or less extent, and in one or iwo cases
promising results have been obtained. Half a mile west of Daniel Hunt's donation
claim, and on section 4, township 28, range 7 west, a vein exists some twelve inches
thick of an unexcelled quality. A short tunnel was run upon it and indications con-
tinued to strengthen people's belief in the discovery of a paying seam. This however
was not the earliest discovery of coal in that vicinity. Two of the best claims yet found
were discovered nearly twenty years ago, the one by James Turner, the other by R.
M. Gurney. The former was at the time owner of the first saw mill built on Looking-
glass creek. The vein was left untouched until a few years ago when means were
taken to develop it. Coal of a quality suitable for the manufacture of illuminating gas
is said to be furnished by this vein. Joseph Hopkins took measures to work this vein,
but the lack of sufficient capital to do so has thus far prevented development. Frank
Headrick has undertaken the management of the Gurney mine, and seems determined
to ascertain its true value.

Flotjrxor — Two miles west of Looking-glass village and accessible therefrom by
the Coos bay stage route lies Flournoy valley, a beautiful little vale of about 2,000
acres, now owned by Messrs. Flournoy, Archambeau, Crow and Jones. The soil is
very fertile and productive, and is mostly sowed to wheat. Through this valley runs
Flournoy creek, a branch of Looking-glass. The valley was named for its first occu-
pant, H. B. Flournoy, who settled there in 1850. Besides the individual achievements
of its early settler the valley possesses somewhat of renown derived from various circum-
stances, more particularly in the Rogue river wars. Fort Flournoy is a wooden defensive
work, built by the settlers in 1855 to protect the people of the vicinity against the
savages, but never used as such. It still stands as a memorial of those troublous times,
and may be seen now by the antiquary or the curiosity-seeker. It is built of hewed
logs in the form of the block houses erected by our fore-fathers to guard against their
vindictive neighbors, the Indians. Its size at the base is some sixteen or eighteen feet
square, but after rising seven or eight feet the second story is considerably larger —
twenty-six or twenty-eight feet square — projecting beyond the outside of the under
portion. Loopholes provide opportunity for shooting downward upon opponents who
may be engaged in forcing an entrance to the lower storj'.

Happy Valley, is situated on the west side of Umjiqua river in townships 27 iuid
28, and ranges 6 and 7 west. It was settled in 1852, by four bachelors — H. Lord, J. T.
Carey, Charles Vernon and another — four jolly fellows who gave it the name of Hapi)y
Valley. They were followed in 1853, by J. M. Arrington, Henry and Noble Saxton,
S. H. Applegate, S. Minard, Wm. Cochran, Elias Capron, A. Ferguson, C. Lehnherr
and D. Noah, of whom none but J. M. Arrington and S. Minard now remain in the
locality. This valley is about five miles in length, and will average about one mile in
width, is very fertile, and is bounded on the east by the South Umpqua, on the west by
Looking-glass creek, and on other sides by mountains.

Tex Mile. — Ten Mile valley is situated about sixteen miles from Ixoseburg, in a
southwesterly direction. It is drained by two noted creeks, the Ten Mile and Olalla^
the former running east and the latter north. Ten Mile valley averages one and a
half miles wide. The two portions of the valley are usually distinguished by the

420 SOUTHERN OREGON.

names North Ten Mile and South Ten Mile, the latter heing the valley of the Olalla.
This latter name it may be observed is a subject of corruption. Some people, not
renowned for philological skill, have called it 0-lil-ly, with the stress laid upon the O.
This, it appears, is the Indian for berries, which were said to be found in profusion on
a small tributary of the stream. But the postal authorities, with that fine taste which
distinguishes all of Uncle Sam's employes, called the post office on its establishment,
Olalla, setting at defiance the principles of etymology, but producing, doubtless, a more
satisfactory word.

In the spring of 1853, says Mr. W. K. Wells, there were four or five families
settled in Ten Mile, and a few single men, making a total of not over twenty per-
sons. These settlers were mostly in poor circumstances as to property, and for a time
suffered many inconveniences. ISTot the least of these was the fear of Indians, which
until the close of 1856 kept people in continual susj)ense. In the summer and fall of
1853 several families came from the Willamette valley and settled in Ten Mile, and
some eastern immigrants likewise came in, making a total of perhaps fifty inhabitants.
The following winter was remarkable for the privations suffered by them, whose main
dependence was wild game, which then abounded. Beef, bacon and other essentials
sold at very high prices ; flour cost fifteen cents per pound, and the wheat needed
to seed the land cost four dollars per bushel. The crop of 1854 was slight , that of
the next year was bountiful ; but just after the latter harvest the Indian troubles
began. The natives made hostile demonstrations in December, first making an attack
on Hiram Rice's residence, between Ten Mile and Canyonville, breaking Austin
Rice's arm with a bullet. The settlers began immediately to take precautions against
a surprise, putting themselves in a posture of defense, and gathering the necessary
munitions of war to enable them to withstand the hostiles' attack. The enemy for
some reason made no further attacks upon the whites, but passed on through South
Ten Mile, burning buildings and destroying property. The fate of this band is
recorded in the history of Looking-glass.

The remaining history of the valley is less exciting. Settlers came in successively,
occupied the land, utilized a portion of it, and made the region what it is to-day — a
pleasant abiding place and a productive farming locality. Among the institutions
built up by the community are the Methodist Episcopal church, of North Ten Mile,
which was organized in 1858. Thomas Coats was class leader, and Thomas O. Olivaut
and John Olmstead were stewards. The society built a house of worship in 1869.
The principal industries of the valley are farming and stock growing. Messrs. Wells
& Ireland possess a grist mill, W. R. Wells keeps a store of general merchandise in
South Ten Mile, and William Irwin conducts a similar establishment in North Ten
Mile. About five miles above the former valley, and on Olalla creek, are certain gold
mines, owned by Messrs. Wells & Castile. About three and a half miles from Olalla
post office is the Davis gold mine, in which a two hundred and fifty foot tunnel is being
or has been excavated. Fifty cents per panful of dirt were secured in prospecting.
On Coarse Gold gulch John Fisher owns a claim said to be of value.

Ten Mile, lying within the thirty mile limit, contains considerable railroad land,
mainly useful for grazing and timber. Much of it is held by settlers who design pay-
ing therefor and acquiring title as soon as possible. The oldest residents in Ten Mile

DOUGLAS COUNTY. i21

are Messrs. W. E. Wells, K. B. Ireland, W. N. McCulloch, Thomas Coats, John
Fisher, David McGuire, William Irwin, John Freeman, and John Byron, the latter
of whom was the first settler in the valley.

Camas Valley. — Camas valley, formerly known as Eighteen-Mile valley (being
that distance from Flournoy's), lies in the extreme southwestern part of Douglas
county. It lies at the head of the middle fork of the Coquille river, which drains the
country round about. Camas valley is some seven miles in length and three in widths
possesses a very fertile soil about 1,000 acres in extent, and has uncommon facilities for
procuring timber. Some of the most productive ranches in Douglas county lie within
this vale. Nearly all the valuable food products of the clime flourish in this out-of-
the-way nook, and the inhabitants are self-supporting to a high degree. The first per-
manent settlement in the valley was made by William Day and Alston Martindale,
March 8, 1853, and both of these pioneers still occupy the donation claims which they
then took up. In the same year came — . Patterson, C. B. Kawson and Jesse Dryer-
A few others came within a year or two, among them Adam Day, but in 1856 there
were but three women in the valley. These were the wives of Messrs. Day and [Mar-
tindale and the daughter of Adam Day.

In March, 1850, an Indian raid took place. Coming into the valley by way of
the trail leading from the Big Meadows, the savages burned the houses of William and
Adam Day, drove off their stock and did other damage. A volunteer company was
collected, and, pursuing the Indians, came up with them on the twenty-fourth of March ,^
and had a running fight, wounding several of them, but failing to recover the stolen
property. Previous to this the alarmed settlers had been obliged to gather in a stock-
ade which was built of logs, and was about one hundred feet square. Here the non-
militant portion of the community existed, the others sallying out in quest of the
necessities of life.

In Camas valley there is a sawmill owned by Messrs. Prior, Fei-guson and Devitt
It is upon the headwaters of the Coquille's middle fork, and is surrounded with excel-
lent timber — fir, cedar, sugar pine and oak. It has a capacity of about three thousand
feet daily. On Bear creek is another mill. This stream flows into Cedar creek, which
in turn runs into Ten Mile, a tributary of Looking-glass. Messrs. Gurney Brothers
own this mill, which began work about 1880. It has a ca2)acity of 10,000 feet ilaily,
using chiefly yellow fir and sugar pine.

Civil Bend and Dillaed. — Along the south Umpqua stretches a very fertile
tract of land which, commencing two miles south [of Roseburg, follows the stream for
nine miles. The part of this land lying near Green's station is rolling and nearly bare
of timber. Grazing and fai-ming are the main occupations of the residents, among
whom are Jepthah Green, C. W. Smith, Henry Lander, Plinn Cooper, J. B: Spaur, J.
F. Sheffield and C. Smith. The school district therein counts fifty-seven pupils.
Across the river lies Civil Bend, a place said to have been named in irony. In this
beautiful valley is Dillard's station, around which live a number of old settlers : I\ev.
J. Dillard, raiser of 10,000 bushels of grain in 1883; B. Agee; W. P. Winston, emi-
nent as a horticulturist ; B. B. Brockway, J. M. Dillard, D. Lenox, V. Arrington,
James Davlin and others. Two very neat and commodious school houses are provided
for the hundred and ten pu[)ils whose homes are in Civil Bend.

4:22 SOUTHERN OREGON.

Myrtle Ceeek. — The land on which Myrtle Creek village now stands was first
taken up by James B. Weaver, in 1851, and sold during the year to J. Bailey, the
consideration being a yoke of oxen. In 1852 Mr. Bailey sold to Lazarus Wright, who
in turn conveyed to John Hall, the latter transaction taking place in 1862. Three
years later, in 1865, Mr. Hall had the present town site surveyed and divided into
lots, of which several were sold, and buildings erected thereon very soon after. A
store had been erected in 1856 by J. B. and J. W. Weaver, and in 1860 one Leneve
started another store, keeping therein the postoffice. At present there are two stores
in Myrtle Creek, the one owned by Marks, Wollenberg & Co., built in 1870 by Abra-
ham Selig ; the other, called the Farmers' Mercantile Establishment, of which F. M.
Gabbert and H. Dyer have charge. There is a grist mill in the village, owned by W.
Kramer & Co. This mill was built by Lazarus Wright. Its capacity is forty-five
barrels of flour daily. The same firm owns a planing mill, which is attached to the
grist mill. There are now two blacksmith shops, and a hotel, that of D. S. K. Buick.
Since the railroad reached town a depot has been erected, and also a warehouse, the
property of Messrs. Hall and Selig. School facilities were provided by the erection of
a school house in 1864. The Good Templars organized a lodge January 17, 1883,
electing the following officers : J. Elliott, W. C. T. ; Ellen Gabbert, W. V. T. ; Mrs.
S. A. Elliott, W. C. ; H. Dyer, secretary ; Jennie Buick, W. A. S. ; W. P. Berry, W.
F. S.; Ida Selig, W. T. ; J. M. Hutson, AV. M.; The members now number forty-eiglit.
The Odd Fellows instituted Myrtle Lodge, No. 38, in 1872, with J. M. Smith, N. G.;
John Hall, V. G.; S. Selig, R. S.; Hans Weaver, treasurer. At present the officers
are Walter C. Buick, N. G.; J. J. Chadwick, V. G.; K. H. Gabbert, R. S.; John Nich-
ols, P. S. ; H. Weaver, treasurer; D. S. K. Buick, John Hall and J. J. Chadwick,
trustees. The lodge is prospering finely, having now fifty members. A Rebekah
Degree Lodge, organized in 1878 with twenty-five charter members, now has thirty,
with the following officers : Mrs. S. Hall, N. G. ; Mrs. S. Selig, V. G.; Mrs. D. S. K.
Buick, treasurer ; D. S. K. Buick, secretary. James Beans, George Risch, Joshua
Wright and G. J. Kuns possess gold mines on the North Myrtle, some twelve miles
from the mouth. The gold is thought to be plentiful.

Myrtle creek derives its name from groves of myrtle in the vicinity, and the title
belongs to the creek, valley and village. This valley's length is about five miles, and
width about half a mile. It is drainnd by Myrtle creek, which forks at the village,
one branch being known as North Myrtle, the other as South Myrtle. The valley is_
enclosed by lofty hills, estimated at 800 feet altitude near the village. Dodson's butte
is the most prominent peak. The trees around the valley are mainly oak, but about
five miles east of the village the heavy timber belt is reached which only ends at the
top of the Cascades. These trees are mostly fir, cedar and pine. They exist in count-
less numbers, furnishing an almost inexhaustible source of the best of timber. Mr.
Felix Robinson owns a saw mill on North Myrtle, situated nine miles from the creek's
mouth, which he built in 1872. It is driven by a turbine wheel, has double circular
saws, and can cut about 5,000 feet daily. The amount of agricultural land is not
very extensive, but it is of good quality, and is adapted to raising wheat, oats, barley,
corn, etc. Horses, cattle and hogs are raised in considerable numbers. W. Kramer
& Co. deal largely in swine, fattening at times about 500 head. Grain raising is not

DOUGLAS COUNTY. 423

extensively done owing to lack of area. Corn produces well, Mr. J. IIuH's field
averaging fifty bushels per acre.

The present condition of the locality is prosperous. The Oregon and California
railway furnishing transportation, enabling the farmers to quickly market their pro-
duce and receive returns. The most prominent farmers in and near Myrtle are Hans
Weaver, Henry Adams, J. W. Weaver, Joseph Cornelison, J. J. Chadwick, John
Arzner, Edward Weaver, Henry Jones, Henry Wiley, Jefferson Wiley, John Hall
and others. No one is esjjecially interested in fruit growing, yet many have fine
orchards in which a considerable variety of fruits flourish. As regards the adapta-
bility of the climate and soil to diflFerent species, it may be remarked that a lady, Mrs.
W. B. Drake, of Myrtle Creek village, has cultivated, it is said, no less than 900
varieties of flowering and ornamental plants, all succeeding admirably. In fact not
one yet tried but has succeeded.

Claims were taken on Myrtle creek as early as 1851, and in the following two
years H. Jones, H. Wiley, G. Phillips, L. Phillips, H. Adams, and G. Milligan came.
Another matter of history is the Indian troubles of 185G, when Indians made raids
through the vicinity, burning and plundering. A few Cow Creek savages in the sum-
mer of 1856 passed over the mountains west of Myrtle creek, then down the river to
Oak Grove, where they attacked James Weaver and William Russell, wounding the
latter. They then set fire to James Bean's buildings, destroying them, and proceeded
to Clark's branch of the North Myrtle, where they wounded a man named Clink.
They shot the stock of settlers, and created all possible damage. The circumstances of
their attack on Messrs. Weaver and Russell are these : These gentlemen were coming
from Roseburg, and while passing over the grade on the old military road just south
of Oak Grove, they were fired ujjon by the hostiles. Plunging forward they suc-
ceeded in making their escape, Mr. Weaver sustaining no injury, while his less
fortunate companion received seven wounds, some of which were very painful, but
none fatal. A dozen Indians were in the party.

MissouKi Bottom. — Missouri Bottom is a sort of valley situated half a milefi-om
Myrtle Creek. It derives its title from the fact of its first settlers being from the state
of that name. It is five miles long and will average one-fourth as much in width,
The surrounding mountains have no especial designation. They rise to commanding
heights, the greatest elevation being not less than 1,300 feet. There is little timber in
the valley, but the hills are covered with oaks and plenty of fir timber exists near by.
The soil is chiefly a sandy loam, derived by deposition from the South Umpqua, which
runs through the valley. This loam is very fertile, producing abundantly of cereals,
vetables and fruit. The valley was settled in 1851 by H. Adams, John Adams.
John Adams, Jr., J. B. Williams, and J. W. Weaver. At this time there was no
house in Douglas county to the south of the North Umpqua, says Mr. H. Adams.

Cow Creek Valley and Riddle. — The valley of Cow creek is about six miles
in length by one and one-half in width, and its comi)aratively level surface is drained
by the stream of that name, which flows into the South Umpqua, the latter stream run-
ning along the east side of the valley. The surrounding elevations are known as the
Cow creek mountains. The trees of the surrounding region are chiefly fir, pine, oak,
cedar and madrone. The soil of the valley is chiefly a rich black alluvium, known as

424 SOUTHERN OREGON.

bottom lauds, and is well adapted to general agriculture. Wheat, oats, corn, barley
and all kinds of vegetables are prolific. There is considerable stock owned in the val-
ley, a portion of which is of imported strains of pure blood.

The name Cow creek is said to have been bestowed upon this stream because of
the following incident: An emigrant named Baker was entering Oregon by the
.southern route, and camping one night near the site of Canyonville, the Indians stole
his cattle. In the morning he set out in search of his lost stock, and soon found all
but one peacefully grazing in this quiet valley. The missing one had tickled the pal-
ates of the natives. The first settlers along Cow creek came in 1851, W. G. Hearn
leading the van early in the spring and taking the first donation claim. The first
family came the same spring, being that of William H. Riddle, followed soon by that
of John Catching, Other arrivals of the year were I. B. Nichols and John Smith.
By the' close of 1852, nearly all the tillable lands were claimed. Other old-comers
and jirominent residents of the valley are : W. L. Wilson, J. Russell, Noah Cornutt
Hardy Ellilf, M. Dean, Watson Mynatt, Jefferson Dyer, Abner Riddle, G. W. Rid-
dle, J. B. Riddle, J. D. Cornutt, G. W. Colvig and J. D. Johnson.

In 1882 the Oregon and California railroad began extending its line south from
Roseburg, and soon reached Cow creek. J. B. and A. Riddle donated land in the
very heart of the valley for a town site, and a depot was located upon it. The little
town which instantly sprung up was named Riddle (often called Riddleburg), and for
several months remained the southern operating terminus of the road. During that
time the place was " lively " in the broadest significance of the term, and its like the
peaceful citizens of Cow creek valley hope never to witness again. With the extension
of the road and the departure of the horde which infested the terminus, Riddle became
more subdued, and has taken its proper position as a thriving village and shipjiing point
for a small but very prosperous community. There are two hotels kept by J. B. Rid-
dle and W. B. Wilson, the latter of whom has a stock of groceries, a store by J. D.
Johnson, and a warehouse by S. Abraham. A steam saw mill has just been erected
by Hans Weaver. There is one school house in which, also, religious services are
held ; the Methodists, Baptists and Southern Methodists have church organizations.
The Indians in the vicinity were known as the Cow Creek Indians, and spoke the
Rogue River language. In 1853, subsequent to the hostilities of that year, a treaty
was made with them by Joel L. Palmer, the agent, and General Joseph Lane, by which
they relinquished all claim to the valley except the upper part for a residence, and
the falls of the creek for fishing purposes, reserving the right to hunt in the mountains.
For this they were given oxen and seed grain, with which they cultivated the ground
to some extent the next two seasons. The little stream on whose banks this treaty
was made is known as Council creek. In 1855 these savages joined the Rogue River
hostiles, starting in December from the big bend of Cow creek upon the raid through
Civil Bend, Ten Mile, Olalla and Looking-glass elsewhere spoken of Their oxen were
used for food by the volunteers, and the grain they had raised that year was fed by
these militiamen to their horses. The settlers in the valley all "forted up" during
the war, no attempt being made to disturb them, except in the case of John Catching.
Him they attacked three times, and each time he purchased a temporary immunity by
making them presents. In a few days his neighbors, who had been absent from th e

DOUGLAS COUNTY. 425

valley, returned, and the savages withdrew. After the war the Indians were removed
to a distant reservation, and Cow creek was thereafter free from their dangerous pres-
ence. Considerable mining of a diversified character is carried along Cow creek and
in the vicinity placer mines owned by John Catching and W. L. AVilson have been
extensively worked for several years. Lewis Ash and James McWilliams have a mine
in which they are using a nine-inch hydraulic giant, fed by a ditch thirty-two inches
' wide and thirty-four deep. These mines are all yielding well. Copper is found on
W. H. Riddle's place, and an iron mine is owned by 0. K. P. and J. W. Cain. A
nickel mine is being worked with good results on a neighboring mountain called "Old
Piney."

Canyonville. — The town of Canyonville has always been one of the most impor-
tant stations on the Oregon and California stage road, and lies in the historic canyon
which has so often been alluded to in these pages. The town lies at an altitude of 7Go
feet above the level of the sea, and the summit of the Canyon mountains surrounding-
it is 1,850 feet, the highest altitude, that of Canyonville peak, being 2,910 feet. Near
the town and extending along the river for several miles is a large body of excellent
agricultural land, which has been cultivated successfully for many years. The soil is
the rich alluvium peculiar to these bottom lands, and yields prolifically. Squashes
exceeding 100 j^ounds in weight are not uncommon, and one reaching 142 i pounds
was raised by Hon. J. Fullerton. Wheat, oats, barley and corn are the stajile products
and all give a large average yield. The first settlers upon these fertile acres were
John Fullerton, J. F. Gazley, S. B. Briggs, I. Boyle, and Mr. Beckworth, who all
came in 1851, and who, with the exception of Messrs. Briggs and Beckworth, still
reside here.

In 1852 the site of C'anyonville was marked simply by a log house and a l)Iack-
smith shop. Jackson Reynolds was the first claimant of the laud, and a man nameil
Knott the second. Mr. Reynolds and Joseph Roberts purchased Knott's claim, and
subsequently sold to Jesse Roberts. A town was laid out in 1858, and in 18(53 S.
Marks purchased the entire property at administrator's sale. Since then Canyonville
has steadily advanced, two additions having been made to the town site. There are
two mercantile establishments. William Manning is the successor successively of
Marks, Sideraan & Co., purchasers in 1863, Toklas, Baden & Co, and Riddle & Man-
ning. The store occupied by H Wollenberg & Bros. Wiis built by S. Abraham, who
sold it to D. A. Levins. Mr. Wollenberg purchased it in 1883. He also ha? a ware-
house and deals in grain. D. C. ]McCarty has a drug store, H. Caldwell a butcher
shop, D. A. Levins, W. Worley and Mrs. Blackwood keep hotels, J. Xoland, 1). A.
Levins and S. Thomas have feed stables, William Hackler, and Arzner & Bealman
have blacksmith shops, and there arc a hardware and tin shop, cabinet shop, and wagon
shop.

In Canyonville is a grist mill owned l)y A. F. Schultz, with a daily ca[)acity of
twenty-four barrels of flour. Near the town is another mill of twenty barrels' capacity,
owned by D. A. Levins. On Canyon creek, three miles east of town, is a saw mill
owned by Pickett & Wilson. It was built in 1873, and cuts 200,000 feet annually of
fir and cedar, principally the former. Two miles further, the same stream al.so

426 SOUTHEEN OREGON.

furnishes power for another mill producing 300,000 feet per annum. This is the
property of J. Packard.

The region surrounding Canyonville is embraced in one school district which jios-
sesses a school house. The Methodists have a church edifice, in which, also, other
denominations hold occasional services. A dispensation was granted by the Oregon
Grand Lodge, F. & A. M., in April, 1879, to organize a subordinate lodge at Canyon-
ville, and a charter was granted in July. The lodge was organized by C. H. Merrick,
Danton Hamblin, Charles Bealman, Charles Patchin, James E. Blundell, J. L. Arzner,
L. D. Montgomery, and Thomas Wilson. Douglas Lodge, No. 19, 1. O. O. F., was
chartered May 12, 1866, with Joel Thorn, David Eansora, Danton Hamblin, Charles
Kimmel, and J. L. Arzner as charter members.

Glendale. — One of the new railroad towns of Douglas county is Glendale, situ-
ated in the extreme southern limit of the county, ten miles southwest of the Canyon
and forty-five south of Eoseburg. It was laid out in the spring of 1883, on the
pre-emption claim of L. D. Montgomery, the Oregon and California road having been
constructed that far on its way south. Originally the town was called Montgomery,
and later Julia, in honor of Mrs. Sol. Abraham, which title was first borne by the jjost-
ofiice. Glendale was first used by the railroad, and in consequence became the one by
which it was generally known. During the few months it was the operating terminus
of the road, Glendale was infested by a class of rough characters, which soon left it to
follow the fortunes of new terminal points. Abraham, Wheeler & Co. oi^ened the first
store in May, 1883. Glendale is now a small but prosperous shipping and supply
point, and a station of considerable importance on the road.

CHAPTER LI.

LOCALITIES NORTH, NORTHWEST AND NORTHEAST OF ROSEBURG.

Cole's Valley— Umpqua Ferry— Hubbard Creek— Cleveland or Good's Mill— French Settlement— Oakland— Drain
Winchester— Garden Valley— Myrtle Point— Yoncalla— Elkton — Scottsburg— Gardiner— Wilbur.

Cole's Valley. — This pleasant valley is situated near the central part of Douglas
county. It is bounded on the north by the Umpqua river and Mount Tyee, a name
given this m(juntain by the Indians and meaning large or chief This mountain was
the resort of the Indians in time of war, as from it they could see much of the sur-
rounding country. South of the valley is found the Woodruff mountain, a large mass
oF rocks, and west is the Coast Kange, and east the Calapooias. The valley is divided
by the LTmpqua, which flows through it in a northwesterly direction. The soil is
good ; wheat, even after long cropping, produces an average of twenty bushels per
acre; oats and barley, thirty each ; corn, from forty to sixty bushels.

DOrGLAS COUNTY. 427

West of Cole's valley lies a curiously rough and broken region nearly covered by
a section of the Coast Eange, termed here the Umj^iqua mountains. Upon this eastern
slope, and intruding upon the western edge of Cole's valley, the almost unbroken sea
of firs begins, which only ends at Coos bay and the shore of the Pacific. The timber ot
the valley is mainly composed of oaks, maples and underbrush, and grows upon the
elevations. A large amount of fine farming land is entirely free from trees and under-
brush, and is very valuable and highly esteemed for purposes of general farming.

The valley received its name from Dr. James Cole, who was the first settler, and
who still resides near by. The doctor settled here in 1851, and began practicing his
jtrofession. The valley was then called the Big Bottom, but later received its present
name. Following Dr. Cole came George Deeper and H. B. Flournoy, and later John
EuMnitt, William Churchill, Samuel D. Evans and others. By the time of the Indian
wars quite a number of people had located in Cole's valley, including several who still
reside there. In those troublous times some alarm was experienced, but no hostilities
actually took place in the vicinity. Everybody capable of bearing arms put himself
in a posture of defense, but the cloud passed by without bloodshed. At present the
valley is inhabited by a prosperous community of farmers, whose princijial occupation
is grain raising. Among these George Shambrook is chief as regards the extent of his
agricultural operations, as he annually cultivates 800 acres. Messrs. John Emmitt, F.
Fortin and D. T. Thompson also engage largely in wheat raising, plowing yearly 100
acres or more. Pleasantly located in the northwestern part pf the valley is a school
house, where for six or seven months each year the pupils assemble. Sixty-five are
enrolled. Mr. Thomas, the present teacher, an experienced and gentlemanly instructor,
has taught in Cole's valley and its vicinity for over five years.

Umpqua Fekky is the name of a village and post-office in Cole's valley. The
post-ofiice was established in 1873 with George Shambrook as postmaster. The name
was changed for a time to Cole's Valley post-office, but the original title was after-
wards restored to it. Mr. Shambrook owns a store of general merchandise in the place.
There is a blacksmith shop and once a gunsmith shop fiourished, kept by Messrs. Barr
Brothers.

Hubbard Ceeek. — Hubbard creek is a good-sized stream which rises in the
Umpqua mountains, runs northeasterly, and empties into the Umpqua just below
Cole's valley. It is a beautiful and romantic stream, of the coolest and clearest of
water, and wends its way through a densely wooded canyon between long spurs of the
mountains. Some few clearings have been made along the quiet banks, and a small
community of timber-cutters, shingle makers and woodsmen generally, live hereabouts,
supporting themselves by their toil amid the forests. W. B. Clarke, with Baker, his
l^artner, has a saw mill half a mile above the creek's mouth, where various qualities of
lumber are made. Circular saws cut 6,000 feet per day in times of suflScient water ;
planing machines and the usual turners and edgers complete the outfit. The mill is
accessible over a rough road from the valley, which it supplies with lumber, nKjstly
fir, used for fencing, house building, etc. Further up stream is a shingle mill. Above
it still is found a very large amount of standing timber of excellent (piality, mainly fir
and cedar.

428 SOUTHERN OREGON.

Cleveland, oe Good's Mill, is situated upon the Umpqua river two miles below
the junction of the North and South Umpqua, and four miles south of Cole's valley.
It has a jjost office, general merchandise store and flouring mill, all kept by Mr. F. M.
Good. The post office was established in 1875, at about which time the mill, a sub-
stantial structure containing one run of buhrs, was built. Surrounding Cleveland is a
belt of land mostly adapted to grazing but with some farming country on which several
thrifty ranchers dwell. The locality is a pleasant one and is mainly watered by Mill
creek, a small stream which runs through the village, rising in the Coast Range and
running into the Umpqua. There is a school house located here, built in 1872.
George B. Yale kept the first school. The district now has forty-eight pupils enrolled
and the term of school is six months annually.

Feestch Settlement. — The community known as the French Settlement inhabits a
tract of laud belonging to Cole's valley precinct, and lying at the foot of the Coast
Range, about eight miles northwest from Roseburg. The tract is bounded on the east
side by the South Umpqua and surrounded on other sides by spurs of the Coast Range.
The land is fertile ; grain of all kinds grows well and fruit attains remarkably fine
flavor. The locality is protected by the heights of land surrounding it and in many
ways enjoys high advantages. The entire tract is four miles by one and a half miles
and is watered by a small stream known as Champagne's creek. The surrounding hills
and mountains furnish feed for cattle and other domestic animals, while the plow lands
produce abundant and certain crops.

Thomas Flournoy first settled in this valley in 1850, but soon abandoning it he
was succeeded by A. B. Culver, now of Coos county. Within a year or two certain
people of French extraction settled in the valley, giving it its present name. Their
coming is thus accounted for; Mr. H. B. Flournoy, returning from the California mines
in 1851 induced a number of French Canadians to accompany him and settle in the
valley adjoining that which goes by his name. The names of these people were

Francois Archambeau, Joseph Champagne, Gouler and David Grenot. Mr.

Gouler died about 1862. About a year after their arrival their nuinbers were increased
by the coming of several of their fellow countrymen, Narcisse Laraut, Ferdinande La
Brie, Charles La Pointe, M. M. Moran et Fozet and Ferdinand Fortin. Most of these
gentlemen still reside within the settlement where they live honored and useful lives.
All those named except David Grenot were Canadian French, the exception being
European born.

Oakland. — The thriving town of Oakland is situated on the line of the Oregon
& California road sixteen miles north of Roseburg, and is one of the most prosperous
communities in the county. Surrounding it is a large area of agricultural and grazing
land, for which it is the shipping and supply point. There are two town sites, one of
them, now known as the "Old Town," being the original business center. This town
was situated in an oak grove, which inspired the title it bears.

In 1851, Dr. Dorsey S. Baker, now a capitalist of Walla Walla, settled here and
built a residence, store and grist mill. In 1857, he sold the mill and a greater portion
of the land to E. S. Young, who still resides in Oakland. The same year Lord it
Peters opened another store, and Mr. Whitmore built a hotel. Other settlers at that
time were Messrs. Butler, S. Wheeler, — . Banks, J. L. Gilbert and others. Quite a

DOUGLAS COUNTY 429

town sprung up at Oakland, and, about 1860, a small school house was erected, which
was supi^lanted in 1808 by the commodious structure now standing there. Oakland
continued to grow until 1872, when a revolution was made in its affairs by the appear-
ance of the Oregon & California railroad, which passed some distance to one side of
the town. A depot was located and three of the four stores then doing business in the
town — Crane & Pike, Abraham Bros., and Marks & Zeliusky — removed to the new
location. Young & Vail remained in the "old town" until 1878, when E. G. Young,
being sole proprietor of this store, also moved to the present town, which had then
become a place of considerable importance. The mill still remains at the old location
and is the property of Eubanks & Batty. It is operated by William "Wheeler, and
has a daily capacity of twenty barrels of flour.

The present town of Oakland stands on parts of the donation claims of Resin
Reed, 8r., and L. H. Crow. Crow sold to Thomas Banks and James Smith, who in
turn conveyed to G. Mehl. Reed sold the north half of his claim to C. H. Bennett. In
1871 A. F. Brown purchased all these claims and James Sterling's homestead of 240
acres, and upon this land the railroad company located its depot. Oakland remained
the terminus of the road for about six months, during which time it was an exceed-
ingly lively place. The town has gradually expanded with the development of the
surrounding country, and now contains three general stores, two hotels, one boot and
shoe sho]!, one harness shop and livery stable, three churches, one academy, and a
number of neat and comfortable residences. Chenewoth, Stearns & Co. occup}' a brick
building, which was erected in 1873 by J. E. Pike. The present firm purchased it in
1883 from R. Smith & Co., successors of Mr. Pike. A warehouse and steam cleaner
are used in connection with the store. The building occuiiied by A. F. Brown was
built in the old town in 1869 by Abraham & Bros., and removed to its present loca-
tion in 1872. Mr. Brown became a partner in 1875, and in 1883 became sole pro-
})rietor. He has a warehouse for storing grain and wool. The store of E. G. Young-
ct Co. was founded in 1868 in the original town by Young, Vail & Co. In 1872 Mr.
Young purchased Mr. Vail's interest and in 1878 moved the building to Oakland.
The firm deals largely in grain, and owns a warehouse. Taylor & Hall's hardware
store was founded as a general merchandise store by Wheeler Bros., and was purchased
by its present proprietors in 1879. J. H. Shupe opened a variety store in 1878, and
in 1871 formed a partnership with Dr. J. C. Shambrook, and embarked in the drug,
grocery and notion trade under the firm name of J. H. Shupe & Co. Wells, Fargo
& Co.'s express office is located in this store. The drug and variety store of Page &
Dimick was founded by Venable & Nudley. In 1877 the firm became Page & Yen-
able. The new store building was built by them in 1882. Subseciueutly Z. Dimick
became a partner upon the death of Mr. Venable. G. B. Barr's sadtllery establishment
was opened in April, 1883. Wm. Moore is proprietor of the boot and shoe shop,
John Beckley of the livery stable, and R. Thomas and J. Smith of the hotels.

Until 1881 the old and new towns w^ere comprehended in one district, since when
they have been distinct. Oakland has no school building, but the public money was
devoted to the Oakland Academy, where a public school is taught independently of
the ordinary course. This institution was founded in 1880, by Prof G. T. Russell, a
graduate of Harvard. Three sessions are held each year, and three teachers are

SOUTHERN OREGON.

employed, this number, upon occasion, being increased to five. There are five church
organizations, which, in connection with the school and academy, indicate a high moral
and intellectual standard in the community. The Baptist, Methodist Episcopal, and
Episcopal denominations have church edifices, while the Presbyterians and Southern
Methodists hold services frequently.

The Masons and Odd Fellows each have organizations in Oakland. Winchester
Lodge, No. 16, F. & A. I\I., the first in the county, was organized August 1, 1857, at
Winchester, with the following officers : L. F. Mosher, W. M. ; J. J. Patton, S. W. ;
James Odle, J. W. ; W. J. Martin, Treas.; L. P. Brown, Sec. ; R. P. Daniels, S. D.
The lodge was granted a dispensation to move to Oakland in the spring of 18(30, where
the first meeting was held on the first of March. In 1862 the charter was surrendered
because nearly all the members had left the place to work in the mines. At that time
D. C. Underwood was W. M. ; W. H. Brackett, S. W. ; R. C. Underwood, J. W. ; L.
P. Brown, Sec. ; W. Hotchkiss, Tyler. In 1872, the grand lodge of Oregon granted
a dispensation to organize Oakland Lodge, No. 16, F. & A. M., and this was effected
on the nineteenth of July, with officers as follows: A. F. Brown, W. M. : J. W.
Johnson, J. W. ; T. Barnard, Treas. ; J. B. Smith, Sec. ; C. D. Dearling, S. D. ; J. W.
Howard, J. D. ; A. J. Chapman, Tyler, Stated convocations are held in the hall over
Page & Dimick's store. The officers for 1883 were : R. Smith, W. M. ; William
Stephens, S. W. ; D. W. Stearns, J. W. ; A. F. Brown, Treas. ; G. T. Russell, Sec. ;
M. Partin, Tyler. Umpqua Lodge, No. 47, I. O. O. F., was organized April 10, 1872,
by the following charter members : H. Abraham, N. G. ; George Coun, V. G. ; J. E.
P'ike, R. S. ; W. S. Pinkston, Treas. ; S. W. Miser, J. R. Dodge, S. Abraham, H.
Zelinsky, J. W. Howard, G. R. Ellison, James A. Sterling, H. C. Dimick and F. A.
Metz. The lodge has now a membership of twenty-six, and meets in the hall over
A. F. Brown's store. The officers for 1883 were : F. A. Metz, N. G. ; M. Partin, V.
G. ; G. A. Taylor, R. S. ; J. Dodge, Treas.

Oakland became an incorporated city by the act of the legislature in 1878, and
the elections held each year have resulted in choosing the following officers :

TRUSTEES.*

RECORDER.

TREASURER.

MARSHAL.

1878 Ij. D. McKinnon, E. J. Page. L. A. Pike,

G. R. Sacry, J. N. Shupe.

P. C, Parker.

M. H. Hobart.

.\. R. Patton.

1879

J. R. Redman, L. C. Wheeler, James Haz-
elton, William Hargan, Jas. C. Young.

George Settle.

Paul Renhaven.

.Mex. Hobart.

1880

J. H. Shupe, R. Smith, G. A. Taylor. J.
\V. Canaday, George F. Merriman.

A. F. Brown.

L. A. Pike.

J. B. Murray.

1881

J. H. Shupe, R. Smith, J. \V. Canaday,
E. C. Sacry, C. M. Hall.

George Settle. L. A. Pike.

J. W. Norwood.

1882 'j. H. Shupe, A. G. Young, W. F. Kerley,

1 Geo. R. Sacryt, William K. Hanna.

R. Smith.

L. A. Pike.

John S. Beckley.

18S3 A. G. Young, J. C. Hutchinson, G. A.

Taylor, Geary Young. George Barr.

J. H. Shupe.

Z. Dimick.

John S. Beckley.

* The one first named was president of the board.

t Failed to qualify, and James Chenewoth chosen to the vacancy.

Oakland lies in the midst of a splendid agricultural region, and is one of the most
prosperous of the younger towns of Oregon. Its growth has been slow but steady and
permanent, keeping pace with the development of its surroundings. Its business is

DOUGLAS COUNTY. 431

established on a firm basis, and is gracUially increasing. As a place of residence it is
very desirable, both on account of its pleasant location and its agreeable inhabitants.

Dkain. — One of the most important business centers of Douglas county is Drain, a
station on the Oregon and California railroad thirty-six miles northerly of Rosebnrg
and twenty miles north from Oakland. It is, also, the point from which stages run to
Scottsburg, Gardiner and other coast points. The town lies on Pass creek near its
junction with Elk creek. It is some twelve miles south of the boundary line of Lane
county, and is the shipping point for an extensive region. The greater portion of the
laud in the immediate vicinity is used for grazing puriioses. The town lies in a canyon*
and the surrounding hills furnish good grass and i^lenty of timber. On the east is the
fertile Scott's valley, on the north Pass creek canyon, on the west Putnam valley and
other agricultural districts, and on the south a portion of Yoncalla valley, all tributary
to Drain. Northeast, northwest and southwest is a considerable area of government
and railroad land valuable for grazing, timber and farming purposes, as yet unsurveyed
and unsettled.

The site of the town was first settled upon in 1847, by Warren X. Goodell, who
took up a donation claim of 320 acres. This was purchased in 1858, by Jesse Apple-
gate, who sold it in 1860 to Charles Drain for farming and agricultural purjioses.
When the Oregon and California railroad reached this point in 1872, in its progress
southward, it was surveyed and platted for a town, and was named in honor of Charles
and John C. Drain, who donated to the company the sixty acres upon which the town
was laid out. Two stores were at once built by J. W. Krewson and C. E. Tracy, also
a hall which was used for a church, school-room and other purposes until 1882. Drain
has grown steadily in size, population and business since its founding — until the past
two years, since when its progress has been more rapid. Since 1881, the population
lias doubled, and the town is in a highly prosperous condition. Fully 500 j)eople are
living within the limits of the school district.

The business interests of Drain are quite numerous. J. C. and C. D. Drain are
jjroprietors of a general store, and have just completed a large brick building. Joseph
Cellers has a large store which was founded by a grange association in 1877, was sold
to Krewson & Co., in 1878, and in 1883, was purchased by the present owner. Kuy-
kendall & Estes have a variety and drug store, founded in 1882, also the post office and
"NV^ells, Fargo & Co's., express office. Jesse Gross established a hardware store in 1883.
M. M. McCulland keeps a hotel, R. L. Shelly has a store, shoj) and harness shoj) in Dr.
Stryker's brick building. This structure was erected in 1881 by the Doctor and his
sons, burning and laying the brick themselves. There are, also a blacksmith shop,
cabinet shop, butcher shoji and livery stable. On Pass creek Johnson & Ellenberg
own and operate a grist mill, built in 1877 by Krewson & Drain. The mill consumes
18,000 bushels of grain annually, or all that is raised in its neighborhood. Palmer &
Bros, have a steam saw mill on Pass creek in Drain. The yearly product is 1,500,000
feet, though the mill has a capacity of 10,000 feet per day. The timber, principally
fir with some ash, oak, alder and maple, is cut on Pass and Sandy creeks and rafted
down to the mill. Another mill is situated on Ritchey creek, a tributary of Pass ei-cek,
and is owned by B. R. Fitch. The annual output is about 1,500,000 feet.

432 SOUTHERN OREGON.

About 1861 a school district was organized, and a log school house was constructed
by Charles Drain, C. F. Colvin, J. M. Gardner and S. Ensley, two and one-half miles
from the site of the present town of Drain. In 1869, a new house was erected near the
old one. When the town was laid out, a hall was erected, in which school was main-
tained until 1882, when the citizens subscribed very liberally to the construction of an
academy, which was placed under the supervision of the Methodist church. In 1883,
Prof. H. L. Benson and Miss Anna Geisendorfer were given charge of the school,
which is now a flourishing and meritorious institution. In 1878, the Christian denomi-
nation organized a society of thirteen members and erected a church edifice. The
membership is now thirty. The Methodists hold services in the academy.

November 7, 1878, the grand master of Oregon issued a dispensation to organize
Pass Creek Lodge, A. F. & A. M. The organization was effected with the following-
officers: Jonas Ellenberg, W. M.; John Young, S. \V.; A. Hickethui, J. W.; W. N.
Boots, Treasurer ; J. W. Krewson, Secretary ; John Barker, S. D.; J. Cellers, J. D.; B. E,.
Fitch, Tyler. The charter was granted July 13, 1879. The lodge is now in a healthy
condition, with officers as follows : Jonas Ellenberg, W. M.; McChien Johnson, S. W..
J. E. Payton, J. W.; J. Cellers, Treasurer; J. W. Krewson, Secretary; Martin Andrews^
S. D.; William N. Boots, J. D.; B. R. Fitch, Tyler.

Winchester. — Situated on the North Umpqua, five miles north of Eoseburg, is
Winchester, the oldest town in the original county of Douglas, and the former county
seat. The town was laid out in lots by A. R. Flint, now a resident of Roseburg, in
1851, on the farm of John Aiken. Messrs. Carter & Emory bought the first lot and
erected the first building soon after the town site was selected, and opened a store for
the purpose of trading with the settlers then fast locating in the surrounding region.
Goods were purchased and packed on mules to this pioneer store, whose customers were
scattered over a radius of fifty miles. S. W. Cram was proprietor of the first hotel.
Winchester became a noted place, and had prestige over all towns in Southern Oregon
or Northern California for a four years, and when Douglas county was organized, it
was designated by the legislature as the seat of justice. Later the county seat was
removed to Roseburg by a vote of the people. Even at that time the town was wan-
ing, and it soon lost its commercial importance as its neighbor grew in size and wealth.
The first sermon preached south of the Calapooia mountains was delivered in the house
of John Aiken in 1850, before the town was laid out or even thought of.

Garden Valley. — Situated just below the junction of the north and south
branches of the Umpqua, is four and one-half miles long, and derives its name from the
character of the soil which is especially adapted to vegetables and garden products. The
first permanent settlements were made by B. J. Grubbe, now a resident of Wilbur, Sol-
omon Fitzhugh, now residing near Port Orford, and E. T. Grubbe, at present residing
at Wilbur. The proprietors of the fertile bottom lands of Garden valley are Charles
La Point, Narcisse La Rout, E. E. and T. J. La Brie, J. O. Booth and Jefferson Gil-
liam. The valley was completely inundated by the great flood of 1861-2, so that the
main current of the river flowed over the body of the valley. The bridge across the
Umpqua at Winchester was washed across the valley complete, and all improvements,
except the residence of E. T. Grubbe, were destroyed.

IVIRS.CHARLES DRAIN.

:#

'^ /kji^-i^-Z^^ ^H~^<--

DOUGLAS COUNTY. 433

Deer Ceeek.— This stream drains the region imniediately to the eastward of Eose-
burg and flows into the South Unipqua at that phTce. The total length of the stream
is some twenty miles, and it has three branches, known as South, Middle and Xorth
Deer creek. The valley of Deer creek is of considerable breadth, and contains a large
quantity of excellent farming land. About its headwaters are mountains of consider-
able altitude by which its valley is separated from those of Myrtle creek and the
affluents of the North Umpqua. The soil of the Deer creek valley is capitally adapted
to the culture of cereals, and produces excellent crops of every cultivated species of gi-ain.
Some of the first farms of the county are found here, many of the owners of whom
might be mentioned as progressive and intelligent agriculturists. The industry and
enterprise of the settlers has borne fruit not alone in improved fiirms, good fences and
comfortable residences, but in school houses, churches and other improvements.

Grazing is an important industry of the valley, the surrounding hills affording the
finest of grass for the sustenance of cattle, sheep and horses, and a considerable amount
of mast from the fore.st trees is of material aid in the rearing of hogs. Generally speak-
ing, agriculture is in a very forward state on Deer creek, and the farmers have signalized
themselves by a steady devotion to the interests of their craft.

Deer creek received its first settlers in 1851. Among its pioneers the name of
Philip Peters takes the first rank. The population of this part of Douglas county
centered at first at the mouth of Deer creek, and until the year 1856 or thereabouts the
thickly settled locality at that point was known by the name of Deer creek — a cogno-
men soon after changed to Koseburg in honor of Aaron Rose, and the former name has
since been confined to the stream and its valley.

The resources of the country around Deer creek are various. On the hills and
mountains about its head a very fine quality of timber prevails, being mainly sugar
pine, red and yellow fir, and cedar. The hard woods are oak, madrone, and a few less
important kinds. Lumbering will doubtless be a pursuit of considerable importance in
days to come. A considerable amount of lands, suitable for grazing or tillage still
remain unoccupied about the head of the creek but will doubtless be taken up by the
immigrants very soon. This land, even on the highest elevations, is jjrodnctive and
would doubtless well repay its careful cultivation.

YoNCALLA. — Lying in the extreme northern end of the county is Yoncalla valley,
one TTf the most beautiful of the mountain-locked valleys of the Pacific coast. It is
some eight miles in length from north to south and about three in width. It is drained
by the Yoncalla, a tributary of Umpqua river and a stream of considerable size. The
valley was settled in 1848 by William and John Scott, sons of Captain Levi Scott.
They were followed by Robert and Thomas Cowan in 1848, by Jesse Ajiplegate, J. T.
Cooper (who had come into the Umpqua to explore the stream) and John Long and —
Jeff'ery, in 184U, and by Robert Smith, Charles and Lindsay Applegate and William
Wilson in 1850.

AVhen the Oregon and California railroad was built through the valley in 1872, a
station was established called Yoncalla; on the donation claim of Mr. G. A. Burt, who gave
48 acres to the railroad company in consideration of building the depot on his laml.
This is the general shipping and receiving point and has become a town of oMisider-
able importance. It has two general merchandise stores, kept l\v R. A. Buoth and C.

434 SOUTHERN OREGON.

E. Trac}". Mr. Booth is postmaster and Mr. Tracy is agent for Wells, Fargo & Co.
A school and church organizations are well supported. Youcalla, or, as more properly
spelled, " Yoncolla," is a word of Indian origin, derived from yonk (eagle) and colla
(mountain), and was originally applied to Eagle mountain, five miles northeast of
the town. A saw mill was erected in 1882, by E.. A. Booth, with a capacity of
10,000 feet per day. In the north end of the valley and but two miles from Drain
are the celebrated Payton mineral sj^rings. Much attention is now being paid to
stock, though the valley is the best wheat land lying south of the Calapooias, and prob-
ably no section of the state can present so great a ^^roportion of well-to-do, and even
wealthy citizens.

Elktox. — On the Umpqua river; sixteen miles west of Drain, is the little village
of Elkton, at the mouth of Elk creek. By this name the stream was known in early
times by the Hudson's Bay Company men, and right opposite the mouth of the stream
was located the company's old fort sjjoken of in the early history of the county. With
the exception of the employees of the company, the earliest settlers were H. B. Hart,
James F. Levins, Ira Wells, Dr. Wells, W. F. Bay, George Payne and Zachariah
Levins, who all located on the creek in 1850. In the fall of that year Winchester,
Payne & Co. surveyed a town site where Elkton now stands, as has been related in
the county history. They could not hold j^ossession and therefore abandoned it. The
next effort to make a town was in 1854, when the county of Umpqua surveyed a town
site for a county seat upon forty acres of land donated by James F. Levins ; but this
was found to be impracticable and the project was abandoned. The first convention in
Umpqua county was held under an old oak tree on this same spot in 1851, which tree
still stands near the corner of Mr. Levins' woodshed. That building possesses the dis-
tinction of being the one in which Judge Deady held court in 1853. A saw mill was
built at the mouth of Elk creek in 1878, and the next year a grist mill was erected by
a company composed of Henry Beckley, John Smith, D. M. Stearns, Levi Kent, H.
B. Hart and Levi Berkley. The yearly capacity of these mills is 200,000 feet of lum-
ber and 2,000 barrels of flour. A little town soon sprung up, and in 1879 H. B. Hart
and George Dimick opened a store, which was afterwards purchased by C. W. Baker,
and later by Henry Beckley and J. W. Stark. The population of Elkton and vicinity
is now about 350. Among the prominent and successful farmers and stockmen may
be counted H. B. Brown, Charles G. Henderer, Levi Kent, John Smith and Ira Wells.
A good public school is maintained. Elkton Lodge, No. 63, A. F. & A. M. was organ-
ized under dispensation granted August 14, 1874, in which were named the following
officers : Robert Booth, W. M. ; E. B. Smith, S. W. ; W. R. Patterson, J. W. ; W.
W. Wells, Treasurer; James McCahey, S. D. ; August Wood, J. D. Charter was
granted June 14, 1875. The present membership is twenty-one. The soil of the val-
ley is black, sandy loam, and is very productive. Being somewhat removed from
a market, agriculture has been made secondary to stock raising. No section of Doug-
las county produces better sheep, bacon or beef. The old Eoseburg and Seottsburg
road and the Coos bay mail route unite at Elkton and cross the creek over a truss
bridge which was erected in 1879. Much of the product of the valley is sent down to
Seottsburg and Gardiner for shipment. When the employees of the Hudson's Bay
Company deserted the fort at Elk creek during the gold excitement in 1848-49, the

DOUGLAS COUNTY 435

large bands of cattle owned liy the company there became scattered. They soon be-
came wild, and the early settlers were comiielled to slaughter them to protect their own
animals. For several years the settlers and freighters supplied themselves with meat
from this source.

ScoTTSBURG. — The first town of Southern Oregon, the former metropolis of tliis
whole region, and the county seat of Umpqua county before its consolidation with
Douglas, was Scottsburg, situated on the north bank of Umpqua river, some thirty miles
al:)ove its mouth, and at the head of navigation on that stream.

In the summer of 1850, Captain Levi Scott, who was at the head of the road
party which laid out the Applegate trail in 1846, settled on the site of Scottsburg, and
laid out a town whose title still perpetuates his name. Not long after James McTavish
came up the river and opened a store in a tent made of sails from the wrecked ship
Bostonian, a disaster which has been detailed in the history of Gardiner. The same
year George Snelling built the first permanent business establishment, being a zinc
house which he had brought around the Horn in the Bostonian. About the same time
William Sloan located some two miles further down the stream and opened a store,
that place being thereafter known as the "Lower town." In the fall of ISoO, Win-
chester, Payne & Co., whose operations have been recited in the county history, occu-
pied the space between Scottsburg and the lower town, which they survej'ed for a
town. Captain Scott donated for that purpose a portion of his claim, but this reverted
to the original owner upon the failui-e of that firm. Scottsburg soon became the
metropolis of Southern Oregon. All the trade of that region passed through this
place, which had connection with San Francisco by sea. Roads were constructed at
great expense to accommodate this trade, and the influence of this seaport town on the
Umpqua extended clear into Northern California. In 1852, when it was at the apex
of its greatness there were fifteen business houses engaged in a wholesale and retail
trade. It was no unusual sight to see 500 pack animals in the streets waiting for their
loads of goods. The fiDunding of Crescent City in 1852 drew off a large portion of
tlie trade of Scottsburg, and the increase of transportation facilities from other points
rapidly undermined the remainder of its business. In 1858 the number of stores was
rechiced to two, and one of these was demolished by the great flood of 18()l-2. Much
damage was done by the raging waters, especially in the lower town, which was com-
(iletely swept away. The site is now covered with bi'ush, and not a structure exists to
mark the spot where once was great bustle and commercial activity.

Scottsburg has now but one business house, that of Cyrus Hedden & Son. A. E.
Ozouf owns and operates a tannery founded in 1852, by Levi Kent, and sends |5,000
worth of leather to San Fi-ancisco annually. In 1878 P. P. Palmer built a flour mill
which grinds 2,000 bushels of wheat annually. W. R. Patterson keeps a hotel. 'I'he
road from up the river terminates here, and a steamer makes tri-weekly trips to the
mouth of the river, carrying passengers, freight and mail. The population is about
sixty in the town proper, while some thirty-five pupils attend the district school.
During the Rogue river war of 1855-6, no trouble was experienced with the Indians
here, but a company of 120 men was organized by Colonel Chapman for service at the
seat of war. The only trouble near Scottsburg, was between Captain Rufus Buttler
and a small band. The Captain fractured the skull of a chief who made an assault

436 SOUTHERN OREGON.

upon liim, and in revenge the savages attacked his house, which he bravely defended
until aid appeared and the Indians were persuaded to retire. Two miles below
Scottsburg is an island called Brandy bar, which was so named because the schooner
jSamuel Roberts, the first to sail up the river, grounded on the island, and while
waiting for the tide to float their vessel the crew went ashore and celebrated the
occasion with a barrel of brandy.

Gakdinee. — The present seaport town of the Umpqua is Gardiner, lying on the
north bank of the river, seven miles above its mouth. The principal business and
support of that thriving place is the lumber industry which is quite extensively car-
ried on in this vicinity. Large mills are located at Gardiner, and lumber is shipped
from it to San Francisco. Deep water vessels can enter the river and reach the wliarf
at this place, and all supplies for or shipments from the country further up the stream
are handled here. Gardiner was once a city of " great expectations." Here was to
be the seaport for the whole of Southern Oregon ; but with the construction of the
Oregon and California railroad into the Umpqua valley this vision of future greatness
vanished. Instead of a great commercial city there is now a thriving manufacturing-
town, and the business point for quite an area of agricultural land.

Gardiner was named in honor of a Boston merchant by that name, who fitted out
a schooner called Bostonian, and sent her around the Horn to engage in the Pacific
coast trade, in charge of his nephew, George Snelling. On the first day of October,
1850, the vessel reached the mouth of the Umpqua, and in endeavoring to enter was
wrecked upon the bar. The crew managed to land the bulk of the cargo. Ten days
later the Kate Heath (Captain Woods), entered the river with the party of Win-
chester, Payne & Co. on board, who found the crew and cargo of the wrecked schooner
at the site of the present town of Gardiner. This name the spot has borne ever since,
though Snelling soon removed his goods to Scottsburg, and Captain Cofiin soon after
took up the land as a donation claim. Coffin sold his claim to Mr. Gibbs, who, in the
fall of 1856, transferred it to James T. Cooper. In 1863 Gardiner Chisholm, David
Morey, John Kruse and George Bauer, purchased nine acres and erected a saw mill
from the timbers of the old block house brought from Umpqua City. In 1864 Cooper
sold to J. B. Leeds and Abe Frier, and the next year Mr. Leeds laid the property oft
into town lots. In 1877 G. S. Hinsdale, E. Brin and J. B. Leeds erected another
saw mill. In 1881 Hinsdale purchased the entire property and sold an interest to W.
F. Jewett. Later, the Gardiner Lumber Company, of San Francisco, purchased the
property, being owners of the other mill also. The yearly product of the mills is
12,000,000 feet of lumber. Logs come from Smith river and Camp and Mill creeks.
Four schooners are loaded monthly for California and the Sandwich Islands. Gardi-
ner has passed through the tribulation of fire, which nearly swept it from existence.
July 26, 1881, fire originated from the fire pit of the new mill. Three houses that
stood near and the mill were quickly burned, while flying cinders ignited the roofs of
houses in the town, and soon Gardiner was wrapped in flames. No means were at hand for
extinguishing them, and in a remarkably short period thirty-nine houses and stores
were consumed. The total loss was |52,000. The burned buildings, which were
chiefly the residences of the industrious employees of the mills, and whose loss left
many families homeless and destitute, were rebuilt, and the town became larger and

DOUGLAS COUNTY. 437

more substantial than before. In 1877 a salmon cannery wa.s established, which dis-
continued work after three years. In 1881 the Bath Canning Company was organized
with a capital stock of |15,000, and put up that year 44,000 cases of salmon. In
1882, 61,000 cases were packed, and in 1883, 65,000. In 1883 the two companies
consolidated. Other business interests consist of two stores owned by Simpson Bros.
& Co. and A. W. Reed, T. C. Markey's drug store, two hotels, owned by William
Wade and William McGee. There is also a good public school. The population is
about 200. Rural Lodge, No. 59, A. F. & A. M., was organized under dispensation
December 14, 1872. The first officers were Robert McKinuey, W. M. ; George M.
Beldrice, S. W. ; William Wells, J. W. ; T. C. Reed, Sec. ; Joseph Roberts, S. D. ;
W. W. Cox, J. D. ; P. J. Hiekey, Tyler. Charter was granted June 12, 1873. A
hall was built in 1873, was destroyed by the conflagration in 1881, and is now being-
replaced by a better one. The membership is twenty-one.

A number of vessels have been constructed on the Umpqua. These were the
brig Mien Wood, schooners Umpqua, J. B. Leeds, Peerless, Louisa JIadison, Emma
Brown, Active, Hayes and Pacific. Several vessels have been lost on the Umpqua bar
through carelessness or ignorance, namely — the Bostonian in 1850, and the Almira
and Roanoke in 1852. Captain J. B. Leeds is of the opinion that the Umpqua bar is
the least dangerous on the coast.

Wilbur. — The chief educational point in Douglas ccjunty for years was Wilbur
a thriving little town on the line of the Oregon and California railroad, between Oak-
land and Roseburg. Here is located the Umpqua Academy, which was the only insti-
tution of the kind until the Drain Academy was founded. The site of Wilbur was
taken December 24, 1850, by B. J. Grubbe, who built the first house the following
spring. The same year he employed a teacher who held in an oak grove the first
school south of the Calapooia mountains. He sold to Mr. Clinkenbeard, who laid ofi*
a town in 1855. In 1853 Rev. J. H. Wilbur, tlie pioneer preacher of Southern Ore-
gon, took up a donation claim, and in 1854 founded the Umpqua Academy under the
auspices of the Methodist denomination. James H. B. Royal was the first teacher,
occupying a little log building. A better building was afterwards erected, which was
destroyed by fire and was replaced by the present structure.

CHAPTER LII.

OTHER LOCALITIES.

Umpqua City— Long- Prairie— Putnam Valley— Green Valley— Mill Creek, Loon Lake and Camp Creek— Smith
River— Rice Valley— Siuslaw— Driver Valley— English Settlement— Elk Head— Scott Valley— Oak Grove or
Ruckle— Clark's Branch— Day's Creek— Coffee Creek— Oak Creek.

Umpqua City.— The operations of Winchester, Payne & Co. in 1850 have been
fully rehearsed in the county history, including the founding of Umpqua City at the
mouth of the river. Upon the failure of the company A. E. Rogers took up the town
site as a claim, and in 1851 sold it to General Joseph Drew and Dr. E. P. Drew.
Joseph E. Clark soon afterwards opened a hotel, which is the only business house
Umpqua City ever could boast of. In 1853 Dr. Drew was appointed Indian agent and
established his headquarters here. At the close of the Indian war in the summer of
1856, Captain Stewart established a military post here, which was known as Fort Ump-
qua. George Vincent, who has resided in the vicinity since 1852, states that in the sum-
mer of 1862, when the paymaster arrived to pay the troops, he found all the officers,
even to the sergeants and corporals, away on a hunting trip. There were no Indians
requiring a post here, and when the department commander learned of the paymaster's
experience, he ordered the fort abandoned. An effort to re-establish it was so far suc-
cessful that Captain J. B. Leeds was on the point of leaving San Francisco with troops
and supplies for that purpose when the order was countermanded. The old block
house and soldiers' quarters were removed to Gardiner, and all that now serves to mark
the spot is the residence of H. H. Barat. Steamers touch at this place and leave mail
for points up the coast.

Long Prairie. — Lying on the Umpqua four miles above Scottsburg is a narrow
strip of bottom land following the windings of the stream for nine miles, which bears
the distinguishing title of Long Prairie. It is hemmed in by high mountains, densely
covered with fir timber. The soil is the rich black loam usual to these fertile bottom
lands. In 1850 a company, composed of Job Hatfield, Major Thorp, William Golden
and Dave Johnson, left Portland to explore the Umpqua, which they reached at the
mouth of Elk creek. They followed the course of the river to its mouth and then
returned to this valley to settle, deeming it the best they had seen. This was the
founding of the settlement in Long Prairie which has grown through the years to a
population of seventy-five. In this little community a most excellent school is main-
tained. The most prominent men who have been identified with Long Prairie are
Job Hatfield, one of the original settlers and the pioneer pilot of the Columbia bar^
Andrew Sawyer and Captain Rufus Buttler.

Putnam Valley. — One and one-half miles west of Drain is Putnam valley, named
in honor of one of its pioneer settlers, who is still an influential citizen of this region.

DOUGLAS COUNTY. 439

The valley is four miles long and about two wide, Elk creek traversing its lower end.
The soil is well adapted to grain, vegetables and fruit. The stock interest is laro-e,
especially sheep. The first settler in the valley was James Daisley, in 1850, other
pioneers being James Palmer, Henry Gardiner, Thomas K. Gardiner, and Charles F.
Putnam. The population is about seventy-five, and good schools and church organ-
izations are maintained.

GreejS' Valley. — Five miles west of Oakland lies a narrow valley, four miles in
length, known as Green valley. Early in 1851, H. C. Scott and M. Farley settled in
the valley, and were soon followed by H. Pinkston, who was accompanied by his
family. He built a house, in which the fiirst school was kept, and in which J. H.
Wilbur preached the first sermon in Southern Oregon. Later, in the same year, came
William Patterson, — . Crosby, J. L. Gilbert and N. W. Allen. In 1853, the settlers
erected, at an expense of $1,000, the first school house south of the Calapooia moun-
tains. In 1851, Dr. Reed built a saw mill, and a grist mill in 1852 — the first in
Douglas county. Other early settlers were N. Venable, J. J. Walton, P. C. Parker,
Preston Rice and — . Shupe.

Mill Ceeek, Loon Lake and Camp Ckeek. — In the spring of 1852, S. S.
Williams, Joseph Peters, and Job Hatfield went on an exploring expedition southwest
of Scottsburg to the headwaters of Mill creek, a stream entering the Umpqua some
four miles below that city. About four miles up the stream, they came upon a lake,
some two by three miles in dimensions, which had been formed by a land-slide block-
ing the creek. In the center of the lake was a floating log, upon which they discov-
ered a loon's nest containing two eggs, while the two birds, to which the nest belonged,
were observed at some distance on the water. The eggs were packed in moss and taken
home, being subsequently donated to the Wilbur academy ; and, in view of these facts,
the place has always been known as Loon lake. The next year, S. S. Williams con-
ducted a party there on the direct route from Scottsburg. On the way they discovered
a stream tributary to Mill creek, which they named Camp creek, because they made an
encampment there. These two streams are lined with dense forests of fir and cedar,
and logging for the Gardiner mills has recently been commenced on them. A large
camp of men cut the timber and float the logs down to the Umpqua, and thence to
Gardiner, fifteen miles below.

Sjiith River. — About eight miles above its mouth, a sluggish stream enters the
Umpqua from the northeast, which has been named Smith river, because it is supposed
to be the stream upon whose banks Jedediah S. Smith's party was destroyed by Indians
in 1827, as has been related previously. Poland island, named in honor of Captain
Poland, its first settler, divides the mouth of the stream into two parts. The river
has its source in the Calapooias, and has a length along its course of ninety miles,
winding tortuously through an extremely rugged and mountainous region. From two
to three thousand acres of agricultural land lie in long, narrow strips along the banks
of the stream, which in several places spread out into large marshes and mud flats.
The soil is rich alluvium. The upper portion of the stream runs through a more open
country, where are extensive ranges for stock. The dense timber of the lower portion
consists chiefly of flr, cedar and maple, and much logging is done for the mills at
Gardiner. In 1851, a company of men cut timber at the mouth of the stream to be

440 SOUTHERN OREGON.

shipped to San Francisco for piling. In 1853, Waterman and Curtis Johnson and J.
Davenport explored the river, and the following year returned with John Shurtz, J.
W. Miller and P. P. Simmons and made a permanent settlement. In pursuance to an
act of the legislature, passed the year before, a eurvey was made in 1858 for a wagon
road from Eugene City to the headwaters of the Smith river, a distance of seventy-
one miles ; but the route was reported impracticable, and the project was abandoned.
In 1864, logging commenced for the new mill at Gardiner, and the good land was then
immediately taken up by an industrious class of people, who engage in farming, stock-
raising and logging. A steamer carrying the mail and passengers ascends the stream
to the head of tidewater, a distance of twenty-five miles, and from, that point the upper
settlements are reached by a county road which was constructed in 1874. The men
most prominently identified with the interests of Smith river are John Cowan, John
Shurtz, S. A. Perkins, John Lester, H. G. Mead and Milton Shurtz. Two good schools
are maintained on the river. The chief market for this region is San Francisco, which
is reached by way of Gardiner.

Rice Valley. — Four miles north of Oakland is Rice valley, named in honor of
W. S. Rice, who settled there in 1852, and is still one of its most prominent citizens.
The valley is five miles long and one mile in width, and is drained by Cabin creek, a
tributary of the Calapooia. It is under a high state of cultivation, producing a super-
ior quality of grain, fruit and berries, and is well stocked with sheep and cattle. The
earliest settler was A. J. Knowles, in 1851, followed by W. S., Ira and Isadore Ricn,
Wesley Allen, Frederick Thieler, W. S. Tower and John Canady, who are still its
principal owners. The Oregon & California railroad traverses the valley, at the head
of which is Rice Station, the general shipping point. The population of seventy-five^
maintain a good school. A little trouble was experienced with the Indians by some of
the settlers who located claims ujDon tracts of land the natives desired to keep and cul-
tivate for themselves. This culminated after the war of 1856 in an attack by two of
the whites upon an Indian house in which two of the inmates were killed. Serious
trouble came near resulting from this, and mob violence was threatened. The men
were tried for the act, but were not convicted.

SiusLAW. — The Siuslaw river forms for a distance the boundary line between Lane
and Douglas counties. The valley or bottom lands, usually about a mile in width,
extend along the stream for forty miles, and are covered with a thick growth of fir,
cedar, maple and alder. The soil is a rich, sandy loam, well adapted to hojjs and grass.
The valley is well stocked with good sheep and cattle. The earliest settlers were D.
W. Hinch, A. J. Moody, David Morse, Sr., and Captain Hill, who came in 1875.
The little town o£Florence was soon founded on the Lane county side of the stream.
In 1876 Duncah & Co., established a cannery, and A. J. Moody opened a store. Nav-
igation extends up this stream twenty miles, where begins a good road to Eugene City,
thirty-seven miles distant. Two stores are kept, by David Morse and David Morse, Jr.
There are also two hotels and a cannery, the property of David Morse. The present
population is about 200, but many new settlers are constantly arriving.

Deiver Valley. — Ten miles east of Oakland is Driver valley, a fertile tract
three and one-half miles long and about one mile wide, named in honor of I. D.
Driver, who settled there in 1853. The center of the vallev is level land, with a rich

— ^h-

DOUGLAS COUNTY. 441

black soil \yell adapted to vegetables and general agriculture; tbe red clay of the sur-
roiiudiug bald hills produces excelleut wheat and other grains. The mountains are
densely timbered. The valley is stocked with excellent sheep and its resources are
well developed. The population of twenty-five have easy access to good schools and
churches.

English Settlemext. — A tract of land six miles long by two wide lies eight
miles north of Oakland, and is called English Settlement because of the nation-
ality of its first occupants. Three creeks, Oldham, Bachelor and Pollock, tra-
verse it, the land along the streams being level, while that between is rolling prairie.
The best of grain, fruit and vegetables are produced, and the valley is stocked with
fine breeds of cattle, horses, sheep and swine. The first settler was Sim Oldham, in
1852, the later arrivals of the most prominence being Dr. Hall, George Hall and H.
Underwood. The present population numbers about sixty. A good school is main-
tained, and the community is in a highly prosperous condition.

Elk Head. — A narrow valley of this name, which is locally known as Shoe-
string, lies twelve miles southwest of Oakland, at the headwaters of Elk creek. The
valley is surrounded by high mountains and is but one-half a mile in width and about
five miles long, and though the soil is rich the area of arable land is limited. It is
well stocked with sheep and swine. J. W. Jones settled here iu 1853, the more prom-
inent arrivals of a later date being E. B. Coats, G. L). Woodson, Joseph H. Garoutte
and P. A. Harris. In the summer of 1880, Kev. A. S. Todd, while riding through
the valley, observed a ledge of quartz, which upon investigation proved to be an exten-
sive lode of cinnabar. Work has been commenced on this by a private company of
the valley. A little town called Elk Head has sprung up, and the indications are
that here will develop one of the most important industries of the county. The pop-
ulation of the village is 120 ; a good school is supported by the citizens.

Scott Valley. — Situated about three miles east of Yoncalla is a little valley
which was settled iu 1848 by Captain Levi Scott, the founder of Scottsburg, whose
name the valley bears. It has an area of about four square miles. The soil is a mix-
ture of adobe and sandy alluvium, and produces grain and fruit abundantly. Oak,
ash and fir timber is unlimited. A saw mill with a yearly production of 100,000 feet
of lumber is owned by Bryant & Sweeney. A good school exists in the valley. The
population numbers sixty-five.

Oak Grove, or Buckle.— This place is a station on the Oregon and ("nlifornia
railroad, eighteen miles south of Eoseburg. It was settled by J. H. Bean in IS.')!,
and is now owned by M. C. Ruckle and George H. Stevenson.

Clark's Branch.— This stream derived its name from James A. Clark, whose
donation claim was located at its mouth. The property is now owned by William
Hudson.

Day's Creek.— In 1851 Patrick and George Day settled at tlu> moiuli of
the stream which bears their name, and were soon followed by .1. P. \\ dson
and James O'Neal. The valley through which it flows is seven miles in length and
but half a mile wide. Upon the stream is a saw mill owned by ^Ir. Adams and
operated by Mr. Bailey. An abundance of fir, cedar and sugar pine grows along the
creek. Tlie principal farmers are Messrs. Raymond, Tate, Ciiamberlain. I'.rdur.

442 SOUTHEEN OEEGON.

Woods, Linville and Blaine. A good school exists, and the Methodists have a church
organization. Rev. H. P. Webb, pastor.

Coffee Ckeek. — This stream was named by miners in 1858, because of a joke
about a coffee pot. Placer claims are being worked along the stream. The principal
owners of the land are Joshua Noland, S. K. Shelly, S. Morgan, James Cox, Benjamin
Stout and Daniel Conley.

Oak Creek. — On this stream, situated in Mt. Scott precinct, ten miles northeast
of Roseburg, is a church edifice 24x40 feet in size, belonging to the denomination of
Primitive or Old School Baptists. The church was organized by Elder Isom Craw-
ford, June 3, 1871, assisted by Ezra Stout and John T. Crooks. The present oflBcers
are : Joseph Thornton, moderator ; Jeptha Thornton and William S. Matthews,
elders ; G. R. P. Allerbury, deacon ; James Thornton, clerk.

JOSEPHINE COUNTY.

CHAPTER LIII,

DESCRIPTION AND RESOURCES.

Location of the County -Boundaries— Extent— Character of the Surface— Mountain Streams -Illinois Valley-
Northern Josephine— Trees—Animals—Minerals— Marble— Copper— Gold.

Josephine county embraces that portion of country lying between Jackson county
on the east and Curry on the west, and extending from Douglas county to the Cali-
fornia line. The boundaries, as given by the act of legislature of January 22, 1856,
creating Josephine county, are as follows : Beginning at the southwest corner of town-
ship 32, range 5, west ; being the south boundary of Douglas county ; thence west along
the dividing ridge sei^arating the waters of Cow creek from those of Rogue and Co-
quille rivers, to the northeast corner of Curry county ; thence south along the east line
of said county to the summit of the divide between Rogue and Illinois rivers ; thence
west along the divide to a point seven miles east of the junction of those rivers ; thence
south to the California state line ; thence east to the intersection of the west boundary
of range 4, west ; thence north to the southeast corner of townshiji 36; thence west to
the southwest corner of the same township ; thence north to the place of beginning.

There is a considerable discrepancy between the various maps of the region in
respect of the western boundary of the county, and the dimensions, as given by the act
quoted, do not by any means appear on the ordinary state maps. The western boundary
is usually considered to be a north and south line dividing range nine west, through
the middle from a point about three miles south of Rogue river to the California line.
The boundary, as it appears in the act, would intersect the corresponding townships of
range eleven, west, thereby giving to Josephine about twenty-nine townshii)s more
surface than are usually assigned her. But considering the character of the region thus
gained, it would hardly seem a valuable acquisition. The greatest length of the county
is from north to south, and is fifty-eight miles ; the greatest width, assuming the county
to be as it is usually figured on maps, is twenty -seven miles, and the extent of surface
is 777,600 acres, or little more than one-third of the area of Jackson county.

Josephine county is very rough and mountainous in its character and lias little
level land. The principal mountain range is the Siskiyou, whose main chain separates
Josephine county from California. Spurs of this range trend north and northwest,
enclosing the Illinois river, whicli is the principal habitable section in the southern j)art.

444 SOUTHERN OEEGON.

Between this valley and that of the Applegate is a rugged and lofty range, which is a
portion of the Siskiyous. The general direction of these ranges is northwest, as is
shown by the principal streams running that way, and the last named chain of moun-
tains is no exception to the rule, for it continues in that direction as far as the conflu-
ence of Rogue and Illinois rivers. In the northern part of the county the principal ele-
vations are off-shoots of what are commonly called the Rogue river mountains and
sometimes the Umpqua or Canyon mountains. The Grave creek hills, so called, lie
between that stream and Jump-oft-Joe, and the Wolf creek range between Cow
and Wolf creeks. They are very broken in appearance, but lie in a generally east and
west line and are of considerable height, some summits attaining an elevation of 4,000
feet or more. Toward Rogue river the mountains decrease much in height, the highest
summits being in the extreme ends of the county, whereas that stream flows through
its middle or not far therefrom.

As previously inferred, the principal streams take a northwesterly course through
Josephine county. They are Rogue and Illinois rivers, and Applegate creek, whereof
the first and last rise in Jackson county, to the eastward, while Illinois river begins its
course in Josephine, far up among the Siskiyous, and flowing through the most valu-
able part of the county runs into Rogue luver about twelve miles from the coast of
Curry county. This stream takes its name from the state of Illinois, whence some
early miners came and applied that name i:)atriotically. The Illinois is divided in the
upper 25art of its course, and its two branches, called east fork and west fork, res^^ect-
ively, unite a short distance above Kirbyville. Into the west fork flows Rough and
Ready creek, which rises in the mountains of Curry and flows eastwardly, and the east
fork receives Sucker and Althouse creeks, streams of immense note in mining history.
A few miles below Kirbyville, Josephine creek enters the Illinois from the west, and
Deer creek from the east.

This section, commonly called Illinois valley, is, rightly speaking, a basin, whose
sides are mountain ranges which enclose it perfectly excepting as to the narrow and al-
most impassable canyon through which flows the Illinois on its way to join Rogue river.
The smaller tributaries named flow toward a common center. The height of the rim
of the basin toward the south is from 5,000 to 7,000 feet. On the west are the rough
and heavily wooded mountains of Curry county, among whose deep canyons and pre-
cipitous steeps man can find no habitable spot. The Illinois has, by the slow process
of cycles, worn its deep and narrow passage, as has Rogue river, but upon their banks
no fertile bottom land exists nor has humanity ever found a resting place by their tur-
bulent waters. But nature wears a fairer aspect on the upper portion of the course of
the Illinois. Here are many farms, and the soil is, though small in quantity, very
rich and productive. Above Kirbyville the river and its tributaries have yielded the
greater part of the immense quantity of gold taken from the mines of Josephine.
In the palmy days of *l85o and neighboring years the banks were lined with miners
and the product of gold was enormous. The course of the Illinois is north for the
greater portion of its length in Josephine countj', but on reaching the waters of Deer
creek, on the western boundary of township 38, it assumes a northwesterly direction
and flows into Rogue river, thirty odd miles from the confluence of the creek named
The extent of the basin of the Illinois and its tributary streams in Josephine county

CDJj:R:Rir

^JL±moo MOS

JOSEPHINE COUNTY. 445

is about 400 square miles or 270,000 acres, which is about oiie-thirtl of tlie total area of
the county. This extent of mountain, hill and dale comprises the most valuable por-
tion of the county and constitutes an agricultural section of considerable importance.
Here are gathered two-thirds of the total population of Josephine, with the greater
part of the permanent improvements, etc. Here, too. is the county seat, Kirbvville,
and the greater number of inhabited localities.

The northern section is less regular in outline than that just described, and is also
more diversified. It falls short in the matter of natural advantages, nor has it means
for sujiporting as numerous a population as the Illinois valley. Tiae principal streams
are the Rogue river and Applegate, AVilliams, Slate, Galice, Jump-off-Joe, Louse,
Grave, Wolf and Coyote creeks, all of which ultimately find their way into the one
channel of Rogue river. Applegate creek, the largest of these, enters Josephine
county on the eastern boundary, and running northward joins Rogue river nearly in the
middle of the county. It receives in Josephine county two considerable streams, Wil-
liams and Slate creeks, both of which rise in the divide between the Applegate and
Illinois and run northeast. Galice creek rises in the western portion of the county
and empties into Rogue river, a short distance below Gi'ave creek. Louse creek joins
Jump-oif-Joe and runs into Rogue river, from the opposite direction. Grave creek
pursues a westerly course, receives Wolf creek and adds its waters to the main river,
about fifteen miles below the mouth of Jump-off-Joe. Coyote creek is an affluent of
Wolf creek, and rises in the northwestern part of Jackson county. All of these creeks,
without ex(!eption, have been the scene of mining operations and some are vet pro-
ducing wealth and promising still better yields.

The flora and fauna of Josephine county have an almost exact resemblance to
those of the sister county of Jackson. As regards the former there are various trees
and plants of economic value, the principal of which are the sugar pine, pitch pine,
cedar and red fir, of great importance in lumber making; there arc .several species of
hard wood, particularly the black oak and white oak, as well as various descriptions of
smaller trees, underbrush, etc. Speaking in general terms we may say there is enough
timber in the county to suj^ply the probable demand for many generations ; and owing
to its comparative inaccessibility large quantities will most likely renniin standing for
a long term of years.

Wild animals of many species are found in Josephine county, and those consid-
ered as game are particularly abundant. Deer of the black-tailed variety abound in
large numbers in nearly all parts of the county and are much valued as a means of
sustenance. Bears of the small black species are not uncommon, and the more formid-
able grizzly is met with, but not frequently. The cinnamon bear is alscj said to exist
in the county. Elk, once plentiful, are now reduced in number to a few individuals
who inhabit elevated and almost inaccessible spots in the mountains. The cougar, bet-
ter known as the California lion, and sometimes miscalled panther, is to be seen or
heard in the wilds, and the mischievous coyote, the fox, raccoon, wild-cat, badger, anil
occasionally a porcupine are seen. Of fur-bearing animals there are the beaver, otter,
marten, fisher and mink. Silver foxes are occasionally ^^een in the Siskiyous.

The mineral resources of Josephine county are .similar to those of Jackson, no
great difference being noted in any respect. Properly speaking, the two counties are

446 SOUTHERN OREGON.

but one in location, industrial resources and natural advantages. As to mineral wealth,
Josephine is well supplied with a large number of the more useful and valuable met-
als, ores and rocks, most particularly of gold, copper and marble. Of the latter a
mountain exists near the former town of Williamsburg, of various colors and emi-
nently adapted for constructive 23urposes, and being in such vast quantity may justly
be looked upon as of great future importance. The celebrated cave, so much spoken
of, is, like nearly all great natural caverns, in limestone, whose quantity is inexhaust-
ible. Copper has been an article upon which great hopes have been based. Several
locations have been made on promising veins, and work has been undertaken in two
or three instances. Near Waldo a mine of this sort whose ore contains twenty-three
per cent, of metallic copper is owned by S. F. Chadwick, John Brandt and C Hughes.
The same parties own a similar claim fifteen miles below Kirbyville. Iron ore of
assumed valuable quality exists in Josephine, but of course it can be looked upon only
as a possible source of wealth in the very remote future.

But all other sources of mineral wealth become trivial in comparison with the
gold mines of Josephine. The region is pre-eminently a country of gold mining,
exceeding in respect to those interests any other portion of Oregon. The first gold
extracted in the state was found in Josephine county, and after a third of a century
actively spent in that pursuit, the deposits are by no means exhausted. There are
placer diggings from which, as in Jackson county, by far the greater bulk of the wealth
has been taken, the quartz mines producing a very small portion of the total yield.

CHAPTER LIV.

EVENTS OF THE COUNTY HISTORY.

Organization— Waldo, the First County Seat— Name Derived from Miss Josephine Rollins— Prospectors Arrive in
1851— Discovery of Placer Diggings— Althouse— A Hard Winter— Roads— Mining, the Principal Resource-
Statistics — Conclusions.

Josephine county was organized by act of the territorial legislature which took effect
in January, 1856. The county seat at first was Waldo, originally and most frequently
called Sailor Diggings, because of the discovery by a party of sea-faring men of rich
placers in that vicinity. That place succeeded Althouse as the foremost locality in the
Illinois valley, and in time was succeeded by Kirbyville, whose location is near the
geographical centre. The first court of Josephine county was held in the fall of 1856,
at Waldo, Judge M. P. Deady on the bench. The reason for setting Josephine off as a
distinct county was that the people of that portion of Jackson county were incommoded
by being obliged to travel so diflScult a road to the county seat. This reason was of
great force at that time, as the roads were extremely bad — in fact, were only trails — and

JOSEPHINE COUNTY. 447

travel was necessarily slow and expensive. At the present day that mode of reasoning
has lost much of its force, particularly with regard to the northern part of the county,
whose people, aided by the railroad, would find it much easier to reach the capital of
Jackson county than the comparatively secluded county seat of Josephine. The county
derives its name directly from Josephine creek, and indirectly from Miss Josephine
Rawlins or Rollins, at one time the only white female in the county. Her arrival took
place in 1851, her father being, for a short time at least, a miner on Josephine creek,
just below the confluence of Canyon creek. This young lady afterward settled in
Yreka, and became the wife of O'Kelly, a resident of that town. It is worthy of
remark that a member of the Legislature proposed to substitute the name Kelly for
Josei)hine when the organic act was under discussion ; but the attempt against euphony
and fitness signally failed.

The earliest visitors to what is now Josephine county undoubtedly were the traj)-
pers employed by the Hudson's Bay Company, who came through this region, travers-
ing the northern part of it in the vicinity of the Oregon trail, and probably exploring
in a casual way the valleys of the principal stream. It is known that they gave names
to some of the water-courses and elevations of that part of the country, but the extent
of their explorations and knowledge cannot now be known. At a later date, the trail
— by that time well known and comparatively much used — was traversed by sundry
parties of settlers from the northern part of the state, who were in the habit of making
occasional trips to California for cattle, etc. Still later, the gold discoveries attract
many people from the Willamette to the California mines, and travelers were frequent.
Many curious and interesting occurrences must have taken place in these years, but of
the most of them we have no knowledge beyond tradition and gaj-bled hearsay state-
ments.

In the year 1851 the history of the county really begins, in the discovery and
working of the placers in Canyon and Josejihine creeks. Herein we find that the
commencement of the history of this county antedates that of Jackson by a year, and in
some sense Josephine may be looked on as a progenitor of the neighboring county, in
respect to its actual development, though not, of course, as regards the county organiza-
tion, since that of Jackson preceded the other by four years.

In 1851, several prospectors came north from the Klamath river, and passing over
the divide into the valley of the Illinois, found gold to the west of that stream, in the
sands of a creek which flows into the Illinois a few miles below Kirby ville. The news
of their discovery was immediately communicated to the numerous and populous min-
ing camps of Northern California, and people began to move toward the new diggings
in considerable numbers. This was the first mining locality discovered or worked in
Oregon, and therefore a historic spot. During the season, more particularly in time of
the same year, a considerable number of men arrived on the creek and mined, meeting
with varied success. Several of these old miners now reside in various parts of South-
ern Oregon, there being Hardy Eliff", of Cow creek, Dan Fisher, of Willow Springs, ,]
E.Ross, Nathaniel Mitchell and James Tuffs, now of Jackson county, and possil)Iy
others ; while the most of them, of course, have passed away.

When in June, 1851, active hostilities began against the Intiians along the banks
of Rogue river, Major Kearney dispatched a subordinate officer to tlic Illinois valley

448 SOUTHEEN OREGON.

for assistance in conquering the enemy. Quite a large proportion of the Josephine
creek miners res^iondecl to the call and proceeded to Bear creek where they served for
a few days against the Indians, their warlike career being terminated by the Gaines
treaty of peace. Some thirty, it is said, were thus engaged, but others have fixed the
number at twice that. How many remained on the creek is not known. Little pros-
pecting was done in this year excepting on Josephine creek and its tributary, Canyon
creek, nor were the diggings along these two streams very well developed. Canyon
creek has continued to yield well ever since and is still worked somewhat. During the
fall of 1851 a number of Willamette valley farmers and others tried their fortunes on
the two creeks, but with indifferent success, owing mainly to their lack of skill and
almost total lack of mining tools. In the following spring immigration set almost
entirely toward Jacksonville, and Josephine county was neglected, until in the latter
part of the year the Althouse — called so for Phillip Althouse, who washed the first
pan of dirt in which gold was found on that stream — diggings were discovered and that
23lace quickly assumed an importance almost equal to that of Jacksonville. Along
Althouse creek for ten miles and more, the diggings extended and a vast number of
miners labored there, perhaj^s not less than a thousand in the most active times. The
pay dirt on this stream in places was of the richest description and probably surpassed
any other locality in the whole of Southern Oregon. The aggregate production of the
mines on Althouse and Democrat gulch, only separated by a divide, must have
been enormous, for a very large number of miners labored there with satisfactory
results for more than fifteen years. The average yearly number could not have been
less than 300, and was probably more. Other mining districts filled up in like pro-
portion, the principal ones being on the tributaries of the Illinois and on Galice creek,
and when Josephine was organized as a county her raining population was probably
not less than 2,500. Nearly the same mutations were experienced here as in Jackson
county, in respect to the alternate ebb and flow of fortune and poi^ulation, and there
was a similarity in other respects, such as the difiiculty of transportation, the want of
communication with the outer world, lack of roads, etc. Prices were extremely high,
particularly in the winter of 1852-3, when a great many miners were forced to leave
their claims for want of food, and those who had the hardihood to remain were in many
cases reduced to the direst straits, and not a few had to live on meat alone, and without
salt. A considerable loss of life from hunger and improper food resulted from the
distressing condition, which was made. so intolerable from the great fall of snow, which
blocaded the trails in all directions and iH'evented ingress or egress. Spring came,
however, communication was re-established, pack-trains began to arrive with loads of
provisions, prices decreased, and the miners set about their season's work with great
hope and courage.

It does not appear exactly when the trail from Illinois valley to Crescent City was
first traversed, but it must have been early in the summer of 1853. Soon after, an
active transportation business sprang up, whereby pack-trains became common, their
function being to supply a good part of the miners with the necessaries of life, and
these articles were, at a somewhat later date mostly shipped in by way of Crescent
City, which place soon supplanted its northern rival, Scottsburg, in the importing
business. For several years the trail to the former point remained only a trail. In

JOSEPHINE COUNTY. 449

1854, people liaving become aroused to the necessity of having a wagon road to tlie
coast agitated themselves and procured the survey of a practicable route. The survey
was soon completed, but it was not until 1857 that the Crescent City and Illinois wagon
road was commenced. In due time it was finished and has since been used very much,
but in a decreasing degree. This noted and important highway, second only to the
old " Oregon trail " itself, beginning at the port of Crescent City, in Del Norte county,
California, takes a northeasterly course to the Oregon state line, which it crosses at a
l)oint about three miles south of Waldo. Here it assumes a generally north direction
and crossing the east fork of the Illinois, proceeds to Kirbyville, and then bending
toward the northeast, crosses Deer creek and reaches the Applegate near the mouth of
Slate creek, and Rogue river at Long's or Vannoy's ferry. Still keeping a north-
easterly course it intersects the Oregon trail at Louse creek, near the eastern border of
Josephine county. The Oregon trail enters Josephine from the north, at Galesville,
after passing through the celebrated Canyon, and proceeds southward across Wolf,
Coyote and Jump-oft-Joe creeks, passing into Jackson county a short distance south of
the latter stream. It was customary to traverse the " hill route," which lies over the
Grave creek and Wolf creek hills, but sometimes the traveler chose a somewhat longer
but more level course further to the west and consequently crossing lower down those
streams. These routes were substantially the ones traveled by those who came through
Southern Oregon in early years and they have since continued to lie the main arteries
of traffic, until supplanted by the railway.

The Applegate road leading from Wilderville on Slate creek, along the south bank
of Ajiplegate river was a thoroughfare of some importance ; and in late years has been
the ordinary stage route from Jacksonville to the Illinois valley.

The question of roads has always been an important and ever present one in Jos-
ephine county. Permanent roadways are of difficult construction and expensive main-
tenance, and the traffic of the country necessarily small. Many attempts have been
made to secure closer communication with outside markets, but unavailingly. In 1874
D. S. K. Buick surveyed a route to Chetco, in the southern part of Curry county. His
proposed road was to begin at a point eight miles north of Kirbyville, and proceed in
a west-southwest direction to the coast. Its length was fifty-seven miles, which is
twenty-three miles less than the Crescent City road from the same point to its ocean
terminus. The steepest grades are said to be less than in the latter road, and the high-
est point is but 1,900 feet in altitude, while the Crescent City road reaches an elevation
of 4,800 feet. The cost of the proposed road was estimated at $55,800. This high-
way, though offering considerable advantages to the people of the Illinois and Rogue
river valleys, was never constructed.

In consequence of her limited area of agricultural land Josei)hine county was
possessed of but one principal resource, that of mining. In this latter respect she exceUed
all other counties in Oregon in the amour^t of auriferous gravel within her borders, and
probably — though that is an unascertained fact — in the amount of gold produced. We
must consider the county as almost exclusively a mining community, whence we shall
find a reason for the marked decadence immediately succeeding the period of great-
est prosperity, which we may regard as ending in 18G0. Until that time the number
of Caucasian miners in the comitv luid not scnsil)ly diminished since the forniation of

450 SOUTHERN OREGON.

the new county, while agriculture, such as it was, had got in a fit way to supply the
demands of these miners for articles of sustenance. In 1857 and 1858 there took
place that remarkable mining craze, the Frazer river excitement, which has become
typical of all its kind. It was directly responsible for a great falling off in the popu-
lation of Josephine county — a loss which was considerable, but whose extent is not
definitely known. The loss was, as regards numbers, nearly made up by the increment
of Chinese miners, and we find accordingly no diminution in the number of polls as
returned by the assessor.

The statistical history of the later years of Josephine county is mainly embraced
in the assessors' rolls for the various years, from which we extract the following
accounts. In 1858, at a rather prosperous era, we find the polls to have numbered 712,
and the taxable property to have been |313,852. Three years later the county had a
total population of about 1,400, the number of voters was 724, the value of real estate
was $253,920, and of personal property $347,377, and the rate of tax was twenty-five
mills per dollar. Then came a long period of depression, when mining notably
decreased, the aggregate population fell off one-fifth, and the number of voters one-
half. In 1875 the assessor returned the population as numbering, 1,132, the polls
331, and the acreage under cultivation 6,269. The agricultural products of that year,
wheat 16,000 bushels, oats 9,000, barley 3,000, corn 5,000, potatoes and apples each
10,000, and hay 3,000 tons. There were 6,000 sheep, 1,000 cattle, about the same
number of horses, and twdce as many hogs. The production of lumber for the year
was 45,000 feet. The showing for 1880 was about the same. The number of polls had
increased to 340, the gross value of all property was reckoned at $403,932, of which
$253,594 was taxable. The acreage of land enclosed was 40,972, whose average
value was fixed at $3.80 per acre. For 1882 the returns gave the number of acres of
private land at 47,500,. valued at $187,400; the gross value of property, $452,247;
taxable property, $315,600. The polls had diminished to 241. When the Oregon
and California raih'oad entered Josephine county value rose considerably, as we see
by the assessment rolls of 1883, which give the value of the 55,889 acres of private
lands as $227,746 ; the gross value of property, $563,880; taxable, 392,351 ; and the
number of polls had increased to 547. The average assessment of lands was $4.07 ;
there were 854 horses and mules taxed, 2,070 head of cattle, 2,700 sheep and 2,359
hogs. The population of Josephine county, as given by the census of 1880, was 2,400
souls ; which by the influence of steam communication has probably been increased to
nearly 3,000.

With the foregoing facts concerning the resources, extent and growth of Josephine
county in mind, and its new advantages of access, the reader will doubtless be able to
form conclusions as to its future. In regard to its agricultural importance, it must
alwavs remain very limited ; but not so as to the culture of special products. There
is an abundance of land suitable for fruit growing, on which can be raised a limitless
amount of the more hardy and useful fruits of the temperate zone. With a very slight
difference in climate, there is a strong parallel between the two counties of Jackson
and Josephine as to nearly all the agricultural products which have been so far experi-
mented upon. Probably every one of the fruits which have proved so signally suc-
cessful in the Rogue river valley, would flourish equally well upon the hills of the

JOSEPHINE COUNTY. 451

Illinois and its tributaries. The once famed and prosperous valleys of Sucker, Alt-
house, Galice and other creeks, exhausted of their golden store, may renew the pros-
perity of their former days when the culture of the vine and the apple fills the vacant
place of a decreasing industry. Farms are offered for sale in the Illinois valley for
one-half of the value they would command in the Rogue river valley. Much gov-
ernment land remains unsold there, which would afford homes for many whose exer-
tions would elevate the condition of agriculture and benefit the county immensely.
The soil of these tracts is pronounced excellent and highly productive.

Though in its decadence, gravel mining is not by any means dead. Much valu-
able ground remains to be worked, and for this purpose great preparations are made
each year. With the introduction of immense hydraulic apparatus, the working of
the gravel beds has become very rapid in comparison with the formei- mode of work-
ing, whereby hundreds of hands are spared to other occupations. Doubtless further
explorations will reveal yet other deep gravel beds, whose working will afford a con-
stant supply of wealth to their owners and to the county for many years. On quartz
discoveries similar expectations may be safely based with even more certainty, since, as
quartz mines require a longer time for their discovery and working, and are altogether
less certain in their returns, it follows that this particular species of mining may not
cease permanently as long as the country remains inhabited or gold retains any value.

CHAPTER LV.

THE ILLINOIS AND ITS TRIBUTARIES.

Importance of the Section— Illinois River — Deer Creek Eight Dollar Mountain— Kerbyville— Sucker Creek
Fort Briggs— Althouse Creek -Browntown -Quartz Mining— Waldo—Gravel Mining— New Hydraulic
Claims— Copper Mines— The Queen of Bronze.

The principal historical events of Josephine county are found to cluster ;il)out
Illinois valley. Along the river of that name and upon its tributaries by f;ii- the
greater part of the mining has been done and still is doing, and the bulk of the pop-
ulation of the county has made its home here. The greater portion of the arable land
of the county lies upoiror near Illinois river, and farming to a limited extent has been
an important industry. The tillable land here is of a very rich (piality, and produces
excellent crojis of small grain, corn, fruit and potatoes, usually sufficient to supply the
very limited market of the immediate vicinity. In early years agriculture and min-
ing bore the same relation as in. Jackson county, and the same remarks are ai)|>licable
with the excei>tion that in Jo.sephine the agricultural land is so limited in amount, that
tilling the soil could never supplant the mining industry, nor could it afford occu-
pation for the very large population engaged in that jnirsuit in the early years. Hence

452 SOUTHERN OREGON

we do not find any considerable class of gold-seekers retiring from their placers and
settling on donation claims ; but when mining was in its decadence the swarms of men
thrown out of lucrative employment, turned toward other mining districts beyond the
borders of Josephine, and were lost to the county.

Beginning with the Illinois river, we find the inhabited portion of its valley to
have been the upper third of its length, lying between the California line and a point
some miles below Kerbyville, where the stream enters a series of narrow and deep
canyons, which continue to its mouth, thirty-five miles below. Along its shores no
settlements have been made, and no human habitation ever existed there save an
occasional miner's shanty, built by the hardy gold-seekers who were working the
various bars of the lower Illinois. The stream is hardly to be called river, for in the
rainless season its bed contains little water, but in winter it becomes a torrent, and
dashes swiftly through its stony, rough and crooked channel. Low down the Illinois
there is a tributary. Silver creek, so-called, which runs through a deep and precipitous
canyon. This stream derives its name from a pretended discovery of silver ore upon
its bank, from which arose quite an excitement, with all the concomitants of difficult
accessibility, high assays, and finally the total collapse of the bubble. This hajipened
in 1879.

Higher up the Illinois, and within Josephine county, we come to the mouth of
Deer creek, which enters from the east, rising in the divide between the Illinois and
Applegate. Its name has an obvious derivation, and its valley has been the scene of
many historical incidents. Here is a small extent of rich agricultural land, which
early attracted settlers, and Mooney was the first to avail himself of the privi-
leges of the donation law. It was in 1853 that he came. Soon after came William
Wixom, followed by Philpot — whose murder by Indians is alluded to in the history of
the Indian wars — and William McMullin. Philpot, it is said, was sitting upon his
horse which was drinking from Deer creek, when concealed savages opened fire and
j)ierced the rider with several bullets, killing him instantly. Besides this, there was
the Guess catastrophe, also alluded to, wherein the head of the first family to settle in
Deer creek valley was killed. The tragedy took place while the victim was plowing
in his field. The bereaved widow subsequently removed to Salem, but after a resi-
dence there of over twenty-five years, returned to the old homestead on Deer creek
in 1882.

In the midst of these troublous times Forts Briggs and Hayes were built, the latter
being situated between Deer and Slate creeks, the former on Sucker creek. These were
fortified farm houses, in which the surrounding settlers took refuge, and garrisons were
maintained in each of them during the later Indian war. Fort Hays is on the Thorn-
ton place, nine miles north of Kirbyville. The Indians besieged it for a short time,
but ineffectually. At the time of the battle of Eight-Dollar mountain the troops
rendesvouzed there. The Hayes family who resided at the station gave name to it.

Eight-Dollar mountain, the scene of an important but indecisive battle with the
Inilians in the early months of 1856, stands at the south side of Deer creek and in the
angle formed by that stream and the Illinois. It is perhaps 3,000 feet in elevation
above tide-water. A road passes over it which has been in use since the earliest years
by travelers between the Illinois and Rogue river valleys. The mountain derives its

JOSEPHINE COUNTY. 453

name, it is said, from the price of a pair of boots which some one wore out in a single
day's tramp over its rough surface. AVho tlie wearer was is differently stated, but is of
no consequence. The eminence is in the pine region, and good timber of that sort is
abundant.

At the mouth of Deer creek occurred yet another tragedy in the kilHng of Horace
Seeley, James Elzey and a German nicknamed Dutch Pete, in the hitter part of Feb-
ruary, 1856. These men with M. Ryder, A. Ryder, Coyle, Frank Larkin, and two
others, were engaged in mining on Deer creek bar, where they were surprised by Indians,
and these three were killed, the others retreating. Anthony Ryder was wounded,
but escaped. This incident occurred on the twenty-sixth of February, 1850.

Six miles below Kerbyville, on the Illinois, is Dead Fish bar, a considerable mining
locality, the most valuable claim being once the property of Peter Reiser, but now
owned by W. W. De Lamatter. In the condition of mining at present these are some
of the most important placer claims in the whole country. The gravel beds are exten-
sive and on the claim mentioned are worked by a hydraulic stream whose fall is 200
feet. On the other claims ground-sluicing is chiefly resorted to.

The history of early times on Josephine creek embraces a vast deal of interesting
matter, relating to mining and prospecting and to Indian troubles, from which the
miners of the stream and Canyon creek were not by any means exempt. Tlie incident
of the escape of John M. Bour, Billifeldt, George Snyder and another, from Indians in
the fall of 1853 is given. The party of four stood a siege for many hours and after nightfall
left their cabin and getting past the savages, found safety in another camp. Mr. Bour
now resides on the Illinois river several miles below Kerbyville, and is supposed to be
the oldest resident of the county. He came to Canyon creek in August, 1852. At
Pearsall bar, on the Illinois, and about fifteen miles below Kerbyville, Mr. Tedford was
mortally wounded by Indians, and Rouse, his partner, severely cut with an axe, as
previously recounted.

Still further up the Illinois is Kerbyville, the county seat ?nd the most impoit-
ant place in Josephine county. It is in the extreme northern part of township o9,
south, range 8, west. The place was named for James Kerby, who took a donation
claim there in 1855, or thereabouts. Two years later, or in 1857, the town-site was
laid off in anticipation that the county seat, then at Waldo, would be changed to a
more central locality. Dr. D. E. Holton purchased a part of the Kerby claim, and became
instrumental in bringing about the change. S. Hicks had been a partner with Kerby
originally, but in 1857, or the following year, he abandoned his portion of the claim,
and C. R. Sprague, who squatted upon the land, also left, selling his rights to John B.
Sifers, who got a patent for his laud. The new town became a commercial center of
importance, and yet retains a standing as such. The first building was erected by Dr.
Holton in 1857, it being a residence. The second building of importance was a hotel,
now existing, and owned by M. Ryder. This was built by G. T. Vining, and was con-
sidered an extraordinary structure, indeed, it being really a large and commodious
house. At the same time, Vining built a store and filled it with a stock of merchan-
dise, and began to traffic. David Kendall was his partner. Captain M. M. Williams,
an enterprising Scotchman, who signalized himself in the Indian war of 185(5, also
built a store, which he rented to the firm of Koshland (.t r.rothoi-, traders, ^forris &

454 SOUTHEEN OREGON.

Taylor, another firm of merchants, soon after built a fine store, over which was a hall
occupied by the Free Masons. This latter building was burned. In 1857 or 1858, a
grist-mill was erected by Crawford & Dodd. At the time of these improvements min-
ing was very active in the neighborhood. The bars of the Illinois river were being
worked satisfactorily, and Josephine county was seeing its palmiest days. A long and
costly bridge across the river at Kerbyville was built by Colonel Backus. It cost
$7,000, was 600 feet long, the center span was 120 feet, and it was the principal struc-
ture of the kind in Southern Oregon. The county seat had been moved to its present
location, and affairs were extremely lively. In 1858, there were five saw and grist-
mills in the county, and the same number of school houses. Kerbyville was described,
in 1858, as improving rapidly, and being the liveliest town of its size iu the state. It
had two large stores, two sjilendid hotels (the Eagle, kept by C. C. Fairfield), a livery
stable, bai'ber shop, and billiard saloon. The Ci'escent City stage arrived every other
day, bringing many passengei's, and taking away much treasure — the product of the
mines. By act of the" legislature of January, 1859, the name of Kerbyville was
changed to Napoleon — doubtless because of the renowned French emperor, who had
just conquered the Austrians — but this cognomen failed to cohere, and Kerbyville the
place remains, except that most people are now in the habit of leaving off" the final
.syllable of the town's name, and calling it Kerby. On September, 23, 1861, a destruc-
tive fire occurred, the loss being about $8,500. At present the village contains the county
buildings ; stores of general merchandise, kept by Naucke and De Lematter, respectively ;
a hotel, of which M. Ryder is proprietor ; a livery stable also owned 1)y Mr. Ryder ;
and two saloons.

Proceeding up the east fork of the Illinois, the traveler finds himself iu the center
of what once was the most productive raining region in Oregon. This fork, with its
aflluents, Althouse and Sucker creeks, and Democrat gulch, have long been celebrated
as placer mining localities, and yet remain productive to some extent. Sucker creek —
named thus on account of some Illinoisau miners — rises in the Siskiyou mountains
and flows west-southwest and falls into the east fork at a point nine miles north of the

State line, and five miles south of Kerbyville. The first settler on the creek was

Rhoda, who established a dairy in 1852, but did not remain long. Early iu 1852 the

first house in that region was erected by A. G. Walling, E. J. Northcut and Bell,

near the mouth of Democrat gulch, and there sold supplies to miners on Sucker and
Althouse creeks. At this place, known as " Walling's ranch," miners left their horses
in charge while they remained at the several diggings. Walling & Company gold to
Cochran in 1853. The Briggs and other laud claims were early taken up. When tlie
Indian war of 1855-6 commenced, the people of Sucker creek, then rather numerous,
experienced some of the ills attending it, and several narrow escapes were run. In the
fall of 1855 Elias Winklebeck was pursued by the Indians and compelled to take
refuge in Sucker creek, where he lay with only his head out ; the enemy failed to
notice his location, and he escajDed. During hostilities Fort Briggs was prepared,
wherein the surrounding settlers and miners took refuge to the number of eighty or
more. This was simply a palisade constructed so as to enclose George E. Briggs' log
house. Mrs. Briggs, widow of the former owner, still occupies the building. Elijah
Johnson was mortally wounded by the Indians on Althouse creek, and being taken to

JOSEPHINE COUNTY. 455

Fort Briggs, died there some time afterward. Daniel "Wiley, another victim, was
killed at the time Johnson was wounded. This occurred on October 30, 18o5.

There is a pleasant anecdote relating to an incident of Sucker creek mining life
that has been often narrated. A culprit had broken into Smith Brothers's store— kept
on the creek in 1857 — and being apprehended, was taken before J. D. Post, justice
of the peace, for examination, and was held to answer before a higher court ; but as
Josejihine county had no jail, and the accused no money to put up as bail, his honor,
the justice, released the fellow, compelling him to sign a note for fifty dollars to secure
his appearance at the pi'oper time.

In the spring of 1858, prospectors found quite extensive placers at the head of
Sucker creek, which they named Sepoy diggings. At this time the other mining
interests on the creek were in their decadence, and have steadily diminished in impor-
tance until the present, when some forty persons only are at work, half of these being
Chinese. Sucker creek possesses a saw mill, built in 1868 by Beach, Platter & Brown,
and now owned by the two former partners. Its capacity is" slight, the total daily
product being 1,000 feet of luml^er. It is situated three miles above the mouth of
the creek.

Althouse creek, a still more celebrated and important mining locality than any
yet mentioned, empties into the east fork at the mouth of Sucker creek, and like
the latter stream, also rises in the Siskiyou range. Its course is northwest, and it
receives several small tributaries. All the region round about is famed for its mining
operations in former times, and is replete with historical incidents of importance.
Althouse creek was named for Philip Althouse, who was one of the party who first
prospected the stream in 1852. In a very short time a large number of miners had
arrived, and hundreds of claims were staked out, over ten miles of the creek bed being
occupied within a year. In 1853 it was supposed that nearly 1,000 men were mining
there, though not all at once.

A village — named Browntown, in honor of "Web-foot" Brown, the [Honeer
Brown of the vicinity — was started and it speedily became a point of much importance.
At one time Browntown was supposed to have had from 300 to 500 inliabitants. Near
by was a less important place, called Hogtown, which was regarded as a Brooklyn to
its greater neighbor. The Althouse diggings continued to pay excellently for half a
dozen years, and the population remained very large. In 1858 the miners were said
to be prospering finely. The hills near Browntown were being tunneled into, the sur-
face having mostly been worked. In the south hills were the Virginia Tunnel Com-
pany, Patten & Company, Peterson, Drake & Comjjany, Lanigan, ^liller ct Company,
and others, all doing well, for coarse gold, frequently in large water-worn slugs, was
abundant. Althouse creek was noted for its yield of coarse gold in the early days of
mining it. The largest slug of pure gold was found about a mile and a half above
Browntown, weighing nearly twelve hundred dollars.

The region fell gradually into decay with the decrease of mining and at a faster rate
than any other section of the country. In 18(35 Althouse was said to have " nearly
winked out," and was compared to Goldsmith's Deserted Village, as to its air of desei-ted
loneliness. Since that time the process of decay has continued, and in spite of many
attempts to revive it, the locality contains little to show but the remains of its fonucr

456 SOUTHERN OREGON.

activity and importance. Browntown, Hogtown and Frenchtown are known only
by their names, and nothing is left of them but the indestructible refuse of mining
camps, the tin cans, the culinary vessels and the rough stone chimneys of miners'
cabins. Nevertheless, all life and energy has not passed away. A few gravel miners
remain, and in Democrat gulch some work is being done. On the Althouse is one of
the most remarkable and extensive engineering works ever constructed in Oregon for min-
ing or any other purpose. These are the drainage tunnels through the divide between
that stream and Illinois valley below Democrat gulch. In 1871 Frederic and Peter
Hansen, Gustaf Wilson and Chris. Lutz commenced the first of these tunnels, which
is 1,200 feet in length, and succeeded in turning the water of Althouse through it. In
1865, Beach, Platter and Leonard projected another tunnel, similar to the first, tapping
Althouse creek half a mile above the first one and ending near the mouth of Demo-
crat gulch. This was completed after ten years's work, occupying a force averaging-
five men for that time. The tunnel is six by seven feet and contains a flume four by
four feet, through which passes the water of Althouse creek. The object of draining
certain mining ground on the creek was not fully attained, as the tunnel is above the bed-
rock of the stream. The projectors were Beach, Platter and Leonard, who sold to
Harvey S. Brown, of San Francisco, in 1877. In 1877 Beach and Platter erected and
stocked a store in Democrat gulch, which they still carry on. A post ofiice was estab-
lished there in the same year, of which C. H. Beach has since been postmaster.

Althouse, in common with the rest of Southern Oregon, had a quartz excitement
in 1860. At that date the Enterprise mine, three miles east of Browntown, was
opened and worked with profit for a time, being abandoned in 1867. The vein was
from eight to eighteen inches thick and was in metamorphic sandstone. By arastra
process the quartz yielded twenty-six dollars per ton. Two tunnels were run and a
large body of pay ore exposed. In 1875 the Oregon mining and milling company
re-located this claim and bought several other quartz leads upon the Althouse, and set
to work to revolutionize mining. They built a ten-thousand-dollar mill at Browntown,
with five stamps, amalgamating pans, settlers and other apparatus. The motive power
was water. ' The properties owned by the company were the Enterprise — otherwise
called the Gold Back or Cohen mine — the Sucker ridge claim, Yankee Doodle mine,
Jesse Randall ledge, several reputed silver lodes said to be astonishingly rich, and the
Althouse ledge, near the crest of the hill opposite the mill site. After a few months
of active prospecting the company suspended operations, and have not since resumed
them. Another association, the Webfoot quartz mining and milling company, J. M-
Tiernau superintendent, succeeded them in 1878, and proposed to establish reducing
works containing a reverberatory furnace for treating sulphurets containing gold.
They, too, suspended, and the presumed rich quartz ledges on and near the Althouse
now lie neglected.

Waldo is situated on Sailor gulch, between the east and west forks of Illinois
river, and only three miles north of the California state line. It has been, and still is,
an important mining camp and celebrated for the amount of gold taken out in the
earlier years. The camp and regions round about were at first called Sailor Diggings,
having been discovered by a party of seamen in 1852. At a later period, when the
place had grown much in importance, its name was changed to that in use at present.

-.Id"

L. L .Williams MoNUMENfi',
Odd Fellows Cemetery, Rosbburg.

JOSEPHINE COUNTY 457

in honor of a California politician, made the more applicable as the place was thought
to be in that state. In 1855, Waldo had grown to be the largest town in the county,
and was advanced to the dignity of county seat when Josephine was set off from Jack-
son county. This eminence it did not retain long, but was succeeded by Kerbyville,
as a more central and convenient location. The population of Waldo, in 185(), is
thought to have been 500 persons. The place continued to improve in later years, and
in 1858 several substantial buildings were being put up, among others, a large hotel.
In 1851, Hunt's ditch brought water to Hhelby gulch, where many miners were work-
ing. At the same time, the Butcher gulch flume was in operation, and two saw-mills
were turning out and selling 20,000 feet of lumber per week, and trade was very brisk. The
village passed through the ordinary mutations of a mining camp, and has fallen oft*
very much in later years, but retains more of its pristine greatness than most other
places in the county. It is favored by being on the stage road to Crescent City, and
particularly advantaged by the deep and extensive beds of auriferous gravel near by,
which are a great resource, but not to be worked until of late, for want of water.
Bringing on a hydraulic stream in 1880, Wimer, Simmons & Company took out con-
siderable wealth in a season's work, and since then the firm of Simmons & Ennis have
brought water from a distance of four miles, and have comjDleted preparations to woik
a very large and valuable deposit of gravel, superior, it is said, to any other known
tieposit in Oregon. Their ditch is ten feet wide and four feet deep, their hydraulic
pipe twenty-two inches in diameter, and the working head, 150 feet. They will l)e
a])le to pipe during half the year. This claim is three miles from Waldo.

In the vicinity of Waldo exist some very promising and important beds of copper
ore. Of these, the mine called Queen of Bronze is best known. Tiie first indications
of the metal were found in 1859, when a small piece of native copper was i)icked up.
Prospectors soon found some lodes of that metal, the mine mentioned being one of
them. This ledge is no less than fifty feet thick at a depth of thirty feet, and fourteen
feet of this is said to be pure sulphide, the most valuable of all the ores of copper.
Much of the ore from this and surrounding claims contains fifty, or more, per cent, of
metal. In 1864, the ore from the claim of Emerson & Company assayed sixty-five
per cent. In that year, the Queen of Bronze mine was being developed. No use of
these deposits of wealth have ever been made, and no work of any consequence has
been done in the claims, beyond developing two or three to some extent. The pre.sent
high price of copper, far above what it has been for many years, should stimulate the
owners of these lodes to endeavor to realize upon their undoubted stores of metai.

CHAPTER LVI.

NORTHERN SECTION OF THE COUNTY.

Applegate Creek— Williams' Creek— Murphy's Creek— Slate Creek— Galice Creek— A Quartz Excitement-
Origin of Names — Romance of Grave Creek — Lucky Queen and Other Mines — The Oregon and Call
fornia Railroad— Tunnels — Reminiscences— Hungry Hill— In Memorium.

Crossing the water-shed to the north of Illinois valley, the traveler comes to the
Applegate river or creek, a considerable stream, which, as before said, rises in Jackson
county and flows northwest into Rogue river, near the center of Josephine county.
It is a noted stream, made so by the mining operations which have been carried on
upon its banks since the earliest years. Its valley is not very extensive, but quite a
number of farms have been cultivated there, and the soil is found to be very productive,
and particularly favorable to the growth of fruit trees. The Redlauds nursery, the
most extensive establishment of the kind in the whole region, is a fine example of the
capacity of the soil for j^lant and tree growing. This is located on the Applegate, at
the mouth of Oscar creek, a small tributary. Some 6,000 young trees, principally
apple, pear, plum and peach trees, have been set out by A. H. Carson, the owner, and
are thriving luxuriantly.

Applegate creek receives several affluents in Josejihine county, the principal ones
being Williams', Murphy's and Slate creeks, all of which rise in the divide between
Applegate and Illinois rivers, and flow north or northeast into the former stream.
The first of these is a stream of some celebrity, both as a mining and an agricultural
region. Williams' creek was named for Captain Robert Williams, the noted Indian
fighter, who skirmished with the natives on this creek in 1853. Previously, a detach-
ment of another company, under B. B. Griffin, fought the same enemy, losing two
men. The placers of Williams' creek remained untouched until 1859, when nearly
every other deposit in the county had been worked, and most of them exhausted. In
that year the town of Williamsburg, situated upon the creek in the midst of the newly
discovered placers, was founded, and grew rapidly. Several families resided there,
and at one time a dozen trading posts were in operation. About 300 miners were
working in the immediate neighborhood, some of whom made twenty dollars per day
each. A school house was erected, a tri-weekly stage made trips to Jacksonville, and
the place had become a woi'thy successor of Browntown and Sailor Diggings, in the
matter of liveliness and imjwrtance. C. W. Savage kept a hotel and lodging house,
and Duncan put up a saw mill two miles below town and did a large business in the
manufacture and sale of lumber. J. T. Layton, still a resident of the vicinity, and
for many years a very prominent miner, devised a plan for bringing water to the dig-
gings, and in company with Maury, Davis and O'Neil, completed nine miles of ditch,
which first delivered a stream of water in Williamsburs; on August 11, 1859. Thus

JOSEPHINE COUNTY. 4r)9

within a few months tlie camp had become an important one and prosperity ahounded.
In due time the mines were exhausted, and the busy workers sought other fiekls.
Williamsburg became an abandoned mining camp, a type of the thousands of other
deserted villages of the same sort. But the creek still retains some importance by
reason of the deep gravel deposits found there, which require hydraulic apparatus to
work them. Mr. Layton has remained on the sj^ot and conducted some heavy opera-
tions, frequently with success. A generation of farmers have occupied and cultivated
the fertile valley of Williams' creek, where their farms have the advantages of excel-
lent soil, as good as any in Southern Oregon, and there is a suflBciency of water.
They have organized themselves into an association called AVashington Grange, which
dates its beginning from 1875, and possess a hall and a store, valued in all at |5,000-
W. W. Fiddler had the honor of being the first master of this Grange, a gentleman of
literary ability, and who, while residing here, wrote an interesting account of the
remarkable cave on Williams' creek, which is one of the wonders of this region and a
rival in some degree to the famous Mammoth and Luray caves of the Eastern states.
It is limestone and contains a complex series of rooms and passages adorned with beau-
tiful stalactites and stalagmites, produced by the continually dripping of water which
holds lime in solution and deposits it when exposed to the air.

Some miles below the mouth of Williams' creek, the stream called Murphy's creek,
flows into the Applegate. This is a small water-course named for Barney Murphy,
who, in 1852, took the first land claim ever held in the vicinity. His location was near
the mouth of the creek. Upon the stream are a grist mill and saw mill, driven by
waler-2:iower ; and near the mouth is the jDOstoffice and way-station named Murphy,
kept now by James Wimer. This station is upon the stage road leading from Jack-
sonville to Josephine, which follows along the south side of the Applegate. Murphy's
creek, and its vicinity contain many small tracts of land suitable for the homes of
industrious and persevering settlers, who would easily find a market for their sui-|)lus
pi'oduce. This remark applies to the Applegate valley in general.

The third and last of the three streams. Slate creek, receives its name from the
character of its rocky bed. It rises in the southwest, toward the head of Deer Creek, and
flowing with a rapid current, pours its waters into the Applegate, two and a-half miles
above the mouth of that stream. Its discharge is sufficient for the propulsion of very
heavy machinery, for which purpose it may likely come in use. It abounds in tmut,
the woods along its borders contain game, and the comparatively limited aiunuiii of
tillable land near by is of good quality. Besides, there are deposits of auriferous gravel
which have been worked somewhat, and may yet prove of value. Bybee, Hawkett &
Company's claim is one of the best. The village or hamlet called Wilderville, situated
near the mouth of the creek, is the only location of auy note. Here, at one time, was
the Junction house, so-called from being at the union of two roads, the Crescent City
and the Rogue river and Api)legate highways. In 1857, this hotel was kept by Oliver
J. Evans. The name Wilderville is derived from Joseph L. Wilder, who laid out a
toAvn, hoping that it would become the county seat, which its exact central location
seems to fit it for, but the people, in 1880, voted against removing it from Kerbyville.
Wilderville now contains a postoffice and a store of general merchandise, established in
1871), by Chapin and Xickell, but now owned by Vance and Birdsey. Near by is

460 SOUTHERN OREGON.

Slate creek station opposite Wilderville, which was formerly the stopping place for the
stage from Jackson to Kerbyville. J. Knight, in 1879, fitted np the place as an inn.

Galice creek received its name from Louis Galice, a French miner who worked
upon the stream in 1852, having been one of the first to prospect it. The stream has
been a very important one on account of the mineral wealth contained in its banks,
which were successfully worked for many years, and are not yet entirely exhausted.
A good many miners came in the early years, for Galice creek was one of the earliest
diggings after Josej^hine and Canyon creeks, and some time in those years Galliceburg
was built up. This was not a camp exactly, nor a village, but was the spot where
population was densest and was accepted as a centre, and given a name. At this i)lace
a trading post was established by Wills, and McCully had a hotel. There were saloons
and the other concomitants of mining camps. The usual history of placer mining-
localities was enacted at Galice creek and the story is easily told. There were rich
strikes, big pay, deep or shallow gravel which paid from the grass-roots down, a sloping
bed rock, plenty or scarcity of water and a considerable output of gold. Then, having
reached sometime in the fifties the climax of prosperity, the inevitable decline begaii
and population and production fell off, the white miners left, to be replaced by Chinese,
and Galice ceased to be of importance. During the Indian wai's some incidents of an
interesting nature occurred on or near the creek, the principal one being the memorable
" siege of Galice creek " in the fall of 1855, by the savages, immediately after their
raid through the northern part of Josephine county. This is sufficiently described in
the history of the Indian wars. Another incident was the hanging of Chief Taylor,
also previously adverted to. We see by the public prints that in 1858 the miners of
Galice began to make claim to a high moral standpoint, and while freely confessing
the previous deserved reputation of the Galice boys as drinkers of whisky, they pro-
claimed an entire change in that respect. The shrewd critic discerns herein a symptom
of the decay of the diggings, as only rich placers are able to support a population given
to intoxication and merriment, and morals always flourish in proportion as the placers
decline. A temperance society is less expensive than a saloon.

The quartz excitement of 1860 was felt in Galice creek to some extent, and a vein
was found three miles above Witt and Arrington's store, on the right hand fork of the
stream. Sims, Martin, Cassiday and Dinsmore possessed the best claim. In 1874
another excitement, local, but of more intensity than the first, broke out on Galice
creek, in the month of December. The occasion of it was the discovery of the Mam-
moth and Yank ledges, which are about 200 feet thick and extend across the bed of
the Rogue river a short distance below the mouth of Galice creek. In less than a
month 200 claims were taken on these immense veins, extending many miles along
their axes. The excitement was kept up by the assayers' reports that gave in some
cases several hundred dollars per ton. Gold was said to be visible in all the quartz
taken out, and capital was earnestly besought to join with labor in utilizing the supposed
enormous wealth of the great vein. The roads were lined with teams and individuals
making their way to the new bonanza, and a great many miners and speculators from
all parts of Oregon and California arrived at Galice in the middle of the rainy season.
A wagon road to the nearly inaccessible'camp was proposed, and meanwhile Captain
Pressley boated several tons of provisions down from the vicinity of Vannoy's ferry.

JOSEPHINE COUNTY. 461

Saunders built a hotel, a good-sized building, and the tirni of Gujiton and Buck put uj)
another. Some Ashland people incorporated a mining company with a capital ol'
11,800,000, to operate in mines, and two mills were proposed by other " capitalist.'^,"
one to have forty stamps, the other fifty, (^uartzville, a new town at the mines, was
surveyed into lots which sold for fifty dollars apiece ; and Yankville, otherwise called
Lumberville, was a mile above and also held forth inducements to new comers. The
lumber used in the building came mainly from the mouth of Jump-off-Joe, being floated
down the river on scows, but a saw mill was soon afterwards built near the mines, which
obviated the difiiculty. Eight here the history of the celebrated quartz excitement on
Galice creek ends. There is no portion of the story which relates to the decline of
these mines, for the process was too sudden to have a story. Every one got away as
quickly as possible and left no indications of their stay, excepting an empty hotel and
the sign " for sale " on the corner lots of the town of Quartzville, or Galice City.

Three years later the Sugar Pine quartz ledge in Galice creek was discovered and
AViM-ked by the Green brothers. At the time it was the only quartz mine in successful
working in Oregon. There were two arastras, and the rock yielded from thirtj' to
eighty dollars per ton, it was said. The firm still po.ssess the mine, which is confidently
stated to be a good property and a mine of permanent value.

Avery large amount of hydraulic mining has been done on Galice creek, where
extensive gravel beds exist. As early as 1858 the firm of Young and Company pro-
posed to employ a hydraulic stream below Rich gulch. Nearly twenty years after quite
an impetus was given to mining in general by the operations of the so-called English
company, which purchased 500 acres of gold-bearing gravel and set about bringing
water by means of a ditch several miles long. In the spring of 187G the association
began piping with great success, taking out $20,000, it was reported, for the season's
work. They ran four giants at one time. Opposite their claim was that of D. C.
Courtney, called the " Old Titus" diggings. This had a ditch seven miles long, built
in 1878. At the Taylor diggings Bybee had a hydraulic apparatus. The Centennial
comjiany and the Blue Gravel company also worked extensively in the same wa}', and
some of these claims are still being mined upon.

Noi-th of Rogue river the Oregon trail crosses two very celebrated streams, Jumj)-
ott-Joe and Grave creeks, names familiar to the inhabitants of all Oregon. The.>;e
streams, with their tributaries, rise in the northwestern part of Jackson county, flow
westward into Josephine county and find their way into the Rogue river in that part
of its course in which it runs northerly. These noted watercourses are of no great vol-
ume, in fact, are insignificant brooks, excepting in the fioods of winter. Into Jump-
off-Joe fiows Louse creek, and into Grave creek runs Wolf creek ami Coyote creek.
How these streams obtained their peculiar names has long been a much-asked (]uestion.
INIore has been written on the subject than upon aught else belonging to their history.
Louse creek, Wolf creek and Coyote creek require no explanation. Their cognomens
are doubtless derived from the prevalence of those different species of wild animals
u|)on their banks. As to Jump-off- Joe, report has it that some individual, known as
Joe, was compelled to leap into the stream to eseai)e danger. But these reports cannot
be traced to any authentic source. Probably the .stories of Joe ^[cLaughliu, Joseph
Lane and the other Joes were invented to account for the name, and were not its real

462 SOUTHERN OREGON.

origin. It seems by far the most probable conclusion that the name arises from some
. Indian word, of whose sound " Jump-off-Joe " is an imitation. The jjresent name is
said to have been applied as early as 1837, which is highly possible.

The derivation of the name Grave creek carries with it a romance of no ordinary
cast. In 1846 the Applegates, as has been said, jjiloted the immigrants of that year
to Oregon by the newly explored southern route. Among these jjeople was a family
named Crowley, who had a daughter, Martha Leland Crowley, who was taken ill and
died at the crossing of the stream called now Grave creek. She was "buried there,
under the shadow of a pine tree, and in order that the Indians should not exhume her
remains for the sake of her garments, all traces of the burial were obliterated, and cat-
tle were corralled upon the spot. Her coffin was made from a wagon box, as is instanced
by several persons who were personally more or less conversant with the affair, among
whom are Theodore Prater, now in Lower California, and Mrs. Rachel Challinor, of
Glendale, both of whom helped bury the deceased. The remains of the unfortunate
girl, it would appear, were dug up by the Indians, though this fact has been disputed.
Several persons contend that they have seen the grave before and after it was violated^
and therefore refuse to admit the possibility of a mistake in identity. Of these is Colonel
Nesmith, who first set eyes upon the j^laceof interment in 1848, and found that it had
been opened and that the bones were scattered about the pit. These, says the colonel ,
were rej)laced, and the grave again partly filled with earth. According to the same
authority, certain Indians who were killed a few days after the close of the war of 18oo
were also thrown into the grave, so that Miss Crowley's remains rest, perhaps, with
those of the savages who desecrated her last abode. Mrs. Crowley, mother of the
young lady, is now in Polk county, where she married Mr. Fulkerson, her first hus-
band having died. There is a great deal of evidence to substantiate the truth of the
above account, with the exception of the exhumation of the body, which, after all, is
scarcely material to the subject of how Grave creek got its name. There would ordi-
narily have been no doubt on the subject had it not been that the history of Josephine
county deals with another young lady, the Miss Josephine Rawlins, or Rollins, from whom
the county's name is derived, as previously related, and the two females, though not by
any means contemporaries, have become confounded together in some measure, as such
accounts inevitably will, when only preserved through people's recollections. Thus from
the death and burial of Miss Crowley, Grave creek obtained its name. In after years a
famous place of entertainment for travelers was opened here by Bates, who afterwards
sold to two men, James Twogood and Harkness, who remained until the latter's death
by Indians in the spring of 1856. Twogood is said to be now living in Boise, Idaho.
They named this place, previously called the Bates' tavern, the Grave creek house ;
and when, in 1854, the legislature changed the name to Leland creek, in honor of the
girl we have been speaking of, the firm of Harkness and Twogood called their place
Leland creek house. By the name of Leland the post office at the creek is known,
but the ancient name of Grave creek seems ineradicable, and is interwoven with many
scraps of the country's history.

In mining the northern part of Josephine county has had something of a record.
In the upper part of Grave creek valley a great deal of gravel has been found contain-
ing gold, and the deposits have been worked with ordinary success. Hydraulic appa-

JOSEPHINE COUNTY. 4(J3

ratus has been instituted in quite a number uf instances, and several ditches of cunsid-
erable length and capacity have been constructed for the purpose of supplying tlie pipes.
On Wolf and Coyote creeks, a similar experience has been had. On the latter stream,
and in Jackson county, is the Coyote Creek Mining Company's claim, better known as
the Kelly-Ruble location, which is now regarded as the richest mining ground in the
county, and is the subject of an important lawsuit.

Besides containing large amounts of gravel of a rich sort, this portion of Josephine
county abounds with ledges of quartz, many of which have been prospected, with good
results. The Esther or Browning mine, on Grave creek, and the Lucky Queen mine,
on Jump-off-Joe, have attracted the most notice. The latter is situated two and a-half
miles east of the stage road and very near the county line. It was the property of a
joint-stock association of men, mostly residents of Southern Oregon. The works on
and in the mine are believed to be the most extensive in the state, the aggregate
length of shafts and tunnels being nearly 1,000 feet. The ore is very complex, con-
taining various base metals, besides silver and gold, and assays, in places, very high.
A ten-stamp mill was built in 1875, and included various experimental devices for
extracting the gold. For several years, work progressed at the Lucky Queen, but
suspended finally in 1879.

Of still greater importance than gravel or quartz mines, the railroad next claims
the reader's attention. The progress of the Oregon & California line through the Cow
creek and Grave creek country was marked by some of the most difficult of engineer-
ing works, of which the most considerable are the nine tunnels found between the South
Umpqua and Jump-off-Joe. The length of these ai"e officially given as follows, begin-
ning with the most northerly: Tunnel, number one, forty-six miles south of Roseburg,
258 feet; two, :382 feet; three, 442 feet; four, 323 feet; five, 340 feet; six, 514 feet;
seven, 100 feet; eight (known as Cow creek tunnel, between Cow and Wolf creeks),
2,805 feet; nine (Grave creek tunnel), 2,112 feet. The altitudes of several places on
the road are as follows: Roseburg, 485 feet; Glendale, 1,440; Cow creek tunnel,
1,(319; Grave creek tunnel, 1,549; the Rogue river crossing, l,ir><.). Witliin Jose-
phine county there are thirty and one-half miles of road, upon which are several (piite
long and lofty trestles and bridges. The Brimstone trestle required over half a mil-
lion feet of lumber in its construction, and the Grave creek bridge is 120 feet higii, its
central span is 120 feet long and the bridge, with its approaches, is 424 feet in lengtii.
The cuts are on a scale commensurate with the tunnels and trestles, and many of them
are in such extremely soft ground that the difficulty of maintaining the i-oad is
immensely increased by reason of the land-slides which are prone to take place.

From the foregoing, it will easily be seen that northern Josephine is not by any
means deficient in interest. Almost the first events of which the student of Southern
Oregon history has knowledge, were enacted on the old California and Oregon trail,
and many a scene of romance and danger has since been viewed there. In the early
Indian wars, that locality was the scene of the terrible nuirders committed by ilie
revolting savages, and many of the victims of their famous raid were settlers in the
Joseiihine county of a little latei' date. Here, too, occurred the active operations which
took place in the following war of retrii)ution against the natives. The Grave Creek
House was the head<|uarters of a contingent of the volunteer army. In the Grave

464 SOUTHERN OREGON.

creek hills, some miles west of the railroad line, there took place the first, aud perhaps
the most important battle of that war. This was Hungry Hill, for a description of
which action the reader is referred to previous pages of this book. The locality of
this fight will ever remain a classical spot, made interesting by the death of many
brave and worthy men. This memorable field of strife is now almost unknown, save
to the few present survivors of the volunteers, who occasionally visit it. Rank under-
brush and grasses have usurped the place where blood was shed, and only those
familiar with the ground can point out even the last resting place of the dead who
fell there. Several persons, among them General Ross and J. W. Sutton (deceased in
1879), both participants in the battle, have given utterance to a desire that the brave
men who fell there should be honored with some kind of a memorial — a simple mon-
ument, at least, whereby their graves might be known. Enlarging upon this idea,
Mr. Sutton proposed a monument to the fallen of the Indian wars, to be erected by
the public — a measure so just and patriotic as to excite surprise that it has not been
carried out. To build such a monument should be the immediate work of the public-
spirited jjeople of Southern Oregon. Of a visit to the battle-field of Hungry Hill
Mr. Sutton wrote, in a style worthy of Irving :

" Some summers since, while passing the little cemetery, I halted for the purpose
of visiting the grave of my old comrade. I stood beside the little row of graves that
I found blended into one, the mounds now hardly distinguishable ; no board or stone
at head or foot is found ; no one can tell these graves apart. In unity they met a
common foe ; in unity they fell ; in unity they lay beneath the sod, awaiting the
judgment day. In vain I sought to determine the grave of my old friend ; it was
lost, lost amid its comrade graves. After a short search among the weeds and grass
that covered the graves, I found a. fragment of a half-decayed board, on which I
could trace the inscription which my own hand had carved full twenty years before —
'Jonathan Pedigo; killed by Indians at the battle of Hungry Hill. Oc-
tober 31, 1855.""

IP ^ O I ^^ I o

-X-lLJSEJD.00 CHIJ^IHlc^ICHISC

CURRY COUNTY.

CHAPTER LVII.

DESCRIPTION AND RESOURCES.

Position of the County —Extent— Streams— Forests— Harbors— Roads— Natural Resources— Beach Mining-
Other Placers— Quartz -The Common Metals and Minerals— Lumbering— Condition of Agriculture— Fisheries.

Curry county lies in the extreme soutliwe.st corner of Oregon. It is bounded on
the north by Coos county, on the east by Josephine, on the south by the state of Cali-
fornia, and on the west by the Pacific ocean. Its greatest length from north to south
is about sixty-five miles ; its average breadth about twenty-eight ; and its area about
1,500 square miles, or 960,000 acres. Curry is essentially a mountainous country, con-
taining scarcely any level land in comparison with its whole area. It is a region of
streams, large and small, and of trees, shrubbery and grass, and is variegated and
diversified in the most extraordinary degree. The mountain ranges are not very lofty,
but are much broken up, with their axes lying in every direction. The streams all
find their way westward to the Pacific, through canyons and narrow valleys. The
principal rivers and creeks, beginning on the north, are — New river. Floras creek,
Sixes river. Elk creek. Euchre creek. Rogue river. Hunter's creek. Pistol river, Chetco
river and Windchuck river — the last being at the California line. All these flow
nearly a west course and enter the ocean. In the interior, Illinois river flows into Rogue
river about twelve miles east of the coast line ; Silver creek, a small tributary of the
Illinois, enters from the south ; and John Mule creek, an affluent of Rogue river, enters
that stream from the north side, near the Big Bend. All these streams are swift
and turbulent, and with one or two exceptions have no long smooth reaches fit
for even boat navigation. They are only mountain torrents, and like other streams
of the sort are generally well stocked with fish, brook or mountain trout existing in the
more rapid portions, while salmon and snlinon trout swarm in certain seasons. The
valleys of all these streams are very narrow, but eacli contains a .•^mall portion of very
rich land which well repays cultivation. The rolling hills and the .so-called "prairie.s" —
which are simply small tracts devoid of trees — furnish the most excellent and abundant
grasses. Generally speaking, the surface of Curry county is a vast forest of various
soft and hard woods, over-si)reading mountain, hill and valley, and clothing the land
with a beautiful and variegated carjiet of the richest colors. Tlie growth of lai-ge ever-
green trees is wonderful in its hixuriaiice, showing the great capacity of the soil for
supporting plant growth.

466 SOUTHERN OREGON.

The coast of Curry county is comparatively regular and unbroken, and is conse-
quently lacking in harbors and sheltered locations where shipping might take refuge
from storms. The commerce of the region is subserved by some few landings, called
summer harbors, and by the comparatively good and safe havens of Port Orford and
the mouth of Eogue river. The former of these is the most promising and important
in a commercial point of view, inasmuch as it furnishes an accessible anchorage, easily
gained in time of storms, and sheltered from all but the southwesterly gales of winter.
The bar at the mouth of Eogue river prevents its embouchure from being more than a
tolerable fair weather port at present, but with the expenditure of capital it is thought
it might be bettered very materially. Chetco has a summer harbor, but the isolation
and small extent of the surrounding productive region, added to its nearness to Crescent
City prevent it from attaining present importance. Several other less known landings
exist, which may come in use for shipping lumber and dairy products.

The mountains of the interior approach the coast at all points and frequently
form rocky and abrupt headlands hundreds of feet high. As a consequence communi-
cation by land is very difficult. From the northern verge of the country to a consid-
erable distance south a smooth sea beach forms a sufficiently good road for horses and
vehicles, but from Port Orford south to Chetco the highway, except for short spaces, is
merely a trail. To the east there are no roads whatever, nor can there be without the
expenditure of much money. The interior of Curry county is jjractically uninhab-
ited, a few localities only excepted, where lumbermen or stock-growers have habita-
tions. They have no roads, only trails. In 1878 a road was surveyed to
Josephine county, but never built, although said to be plainly practicable. As early
as 1852 a trail was laid out from Port Orford to intersect the Oregon and California trail
at Grave creek, but the route was scarcely ever traveled.

The natural resources of Curry county are various and considerable. Of the
mineral kingdom there are gold, silver, coal, building stone, copper, iron and chromium,
whose existence is a factor of value. Gold has been mined on the coast of Curry
county for thirty years. The beach mines are a remarkable phenomenon, as the gold,
in a very finely divided condition, is mingled with the black sand which has been
w^ashed up from the deep and deposited along the shores. The manner of extracting
the gold from the sand, while it is a species of placer mining, is somewhat different in
detail from the ordinary gravel mining on streams, inasmuch as the gold is finer, and
therefore more liable to be carried away by the stream used for separating it from the
sand. Besides, the gold is often coated with a substance thought by the miners to be
iron rust. This coating interferes seriously with the operation of saving the gold, for it
prevents its amalgamation with quicksilver, which it is necessary to use, because of the fine-
ness of the particles. In former times the gold was saved by washing upon blankets and
rough sluices, with " drops " containing perhaps a whole flask of mercury ; but after-
wards amalgamated copper plates were introduced, as in quartz mills, which are more
efficacious. The miners are considerably troubled by the tides and waves, which oblit-
erate their workings and cover up the auriferous beds with layers of barren sand.
Very productive mines have at times been discovered in the old beaches which are
found many feet above the present water level, and these discoveries — called bluft dig-
gings— can be worked with comjDarative ease and immunity from the ravages of ocean.

CURRY COUNTY. 407

The principal beach mines thus far worked liave been found on the sliore north and
south of tlie mouth of Rogue river, and exteniUng about twent3'-five miles along tlie
coast. This portion of the shore is called Gold Beach, a name that was given on the
discovery of the ocean placers in early years. They are still worked occasionally with
good results, and are regarded as equally reliable with ordinary placer mines. It is
thought that this speciea of mining, now producing comparatively little, could by sys-
tematic endeavor be made to pay well. The Cooley claims on Ophir beach are of this
sort and are proving signally successful. The placer mining of Curry county is not
entirely confined to the beach and bluff diggings alone, but good prospects have been
found on many mountain streams, and well paying placers have been worked in many
locations. On Rogue river and its tributaries, mining upon the bars has long been a
favorite pursuit, and certain flats upon the main stream are regarded as very valuable
for the metal contained therein. The Big Bend flat, in particular, is sanguinely con-
sidered to be rich in gold. Sixes river is a stream of some note in mining affairs and
its sands have been worked with fair results for some years and the claims are not yet
abandoned.

In quartz very little has been done in Curry county. Several veins of gold-bear-
ing rock have been prospected, particularly about the headwaters of Sixes river, with
encouraging results, but no mines of great consequence have been o]iened, nor have
mills been built. A large area yet remains to be thoroughly pros])ected, and it is
highly possible that good veins may be found.

Several other minerals of value are found, The following brief estimate of their
importance having been made by Mr. F. A. Stewart, of Port Orford : " Copper has
been found in well defined leads just below the mouth of the Illinois, also along it,
and on some of its tributaries, as well as in the 'Lake of the Woods' mountains just
back of Ellensburg. Iron and chrome exist in fabulous quantities in many places,
but generally too hard of access to attract capital for many years to come. On the
Illinois exists a bed of chrome, which was pronounced in Swansea, England, to be the
finest in the world ; but the cost of getting it to tide water precludes the idea of its
shipment. Coal has been found in apparently large quantities, two miles above the
mouth of the Illinois ; also above the Big Bend, and in various other localities, (^uite
large j^ieces have been picked up on the coast, four miles below Ellensburg, and,
although of superior quality, it has never been prospected for. Freestone of the finest
color and (juality, constitutes the rocky headlands that make the summer harbor of
Hunter's heads, and Mack's Arch. Yet these magnificent quarries, although so handy
that their hugest stones could be swung by cranes upon the decks of vessels, secure in
good harbors, are still untouched by the vandal, but magic hand of trade. Marble
also has been found in many ])laces, but generally in remote and retired situations, so
little liable to be disturbed that it would make a vci'v aiipnipriate oinlijem of peace —
especially for its whiteness and |)urity.'"

In the production of choice lumber Curry county holds a very eminent i)lace.
The county generally is well wooded, with a heavy and dense growth of various timber
trees, chiefly soft woods. The Port Orford cedar is the most valuable and important
of these, and furnishes a large quantity of the fine.st lumber for finishing pur])oses,
which finds a readv sale in San Franciseo, at hi-li rates. Two saw mills, the Elk

468 SOUTHERN OEEGON.

creek and Hubbard creek mills, bave dealt exclusively, almost, with tbis sort of lumber
and have manufactured an enormous amount in the years of their activity. Secondary
to this variety, are two sj^ecies of fir, both valuable and abundant, and a considerable
(juantity of live-oak and other trees more or less valuable. Of the varieties of fir and
cedar very large quantities exist, extending eastward to and beyond the borders of the
county. Each and every stream is shaded by groves of these monster evergreens,
which exist in countless numbers. The most activity is shown in manufacturing cedar
lumber, but considerable attention has of late been given to the pine forests upon
Rogue river, some distance up stream. The experiment of floating sugar pine logs from
the extensive pineries of Josephine county was tried, but unsuccessfully. The design
was to bring them to the steam mill at Elleusburg. Besides pine Rogue river is lined,
particularly the lower portion of its course, with fir timber of immense size.

The principal agricultural resource of the present day is grazing. The farming-
laud of the county being confined to the narrow valleys at the lower part of the rivers
and creeks, and to a small proportion of table land lying somewhat higher up, it fol-
lows that the culture of farm products can never attain importance in corajiarison with
other and more extensive sections. There is, however, ample opj^ortunity for i-aising
sufficient of the ordinary farm and garden products to satisfy the local demand, except-
ing in isolated localities, which may continue to require importations of necessaries
from outside places. The small amount of tillable soil in Curry county is of most
excellent quality, producing immense croi^s of vegetables, and yielding fair amounts of
wheat and other grains. Dairying and stock growing, particularly the latter, are the
principal present and jjrospective supports of the small agricultural community, and
are the pursuits of prime importance. A very large amount of grass of the best
quality grows in the " prairies" (open spaces on the hills), and furnishes pasturage for
a large number of cattle and sheep. In the matter of dairying, Curry county has the
advantage that grass remains green for nearly the whole year, kept so by the ocean
breezes, laden with moisture from the warm Japanese current. Hence, the best of
butter can be produced, even from the natural grasses, while domesticated grasses also
flourish excellently. Probably Curry county is able to produce as good a quality of
butter as the far-famed dairies of Point Reyes, in California, which owe their pre-emi-
nence to the same fact of the moist ocean climate of their locality. Probably e(|ual
facilities do not exist on the Pacific coast outside of Curry and Coos county, for making-
first-class butter and cheese. At present these facilities are by no means fully recognized
and appropriated, for although several private dairies exist, they are only sufl[icient in
number to demonstrate the value of this pursuit. The lack of speedy and regular
transportation to San Francisco, the only reliable market, is, however, a very serious
drawback and difficult to be remedied.

The fisheries of Curry county are an important source of -wealth. The salmon
tribe frequent all the rivers and creeks in immense numbers, and a cannery has been
established, of which we will speak further. In addition, there are several fisheries,
so-called, where salmon are caught, and salted for export in barrels. On nearly all
the streams similar establishments might prove profitable, owing to the abundance of
the fish, and to their good quality.

IkPi-

M*-'.

CHAPTER LVIII.

EARLY HISTORY OF THE COUNTY

First Exploration of the Coast— Vancouver's Voyage— The Natives— Cape Blanco, or Orford New Cities
Founded Along the Coast — Captain Tichenor's Design — A Colony Formed -Siege of Battle Rock— Escape
of the Nine A Larger Force Left at Port Orford- -T'Vault's Explorations— Sad Fate of Five Men -Hero-
ism of Cyrus Hedden Missionaries and Troops Arrive at Port Orford -Colonel Casey's Expedition -Dis-
covery of the Beach Placers— Organization of the County.

It lias often been said and wi'itten that certain Spanish explorers of the last cen-
tury visited and examined the coast of Curry county, and sailing northward, entered
the mouth of the Umpqua river and refitted there. But this report cannot be traced
to any source other than that Don Martin D'Aguilar, sailing along this coast in 1795,
or thereabouts, discovered and named Cape Blanco, since known by that name and the
name also of Cape Orford. The latter name was applied by a very celebrated English
navigator, who visited these shores in 1792. His name was Captain George Van-
couver, to whom the world is indebted for the first systematic and scientific examination
of the northwest coast of America. Here follows the story of his voyage along the
coast of Curry county, told in his own words :

"On Tuesday, April 24, 1792, the northern point of St. George's bay [in Del
Norte county, California], bore east two leagues distant. With a favorable breeze at
southwest, our survey was continued northward along the shores, which are composed
of high, steep precipices and deep chasms, falling very abruptly into the sea. The
inland mountains are much elevated, and appeared to be tolerably well clothed with a
variety of trees, the generality of which were of the pine tribe ; yet amongst them were
some spreading trees of considerable magnitude. The shores were still bounded by
innumerable rocky islets, and in the course of the forenoon we passed a cluster of them,
with several sunken rocks in their vicinity, lying a league from the land, which falls
back a little to the eastward and forms a shallow bay, into which we steered. As the
breeze died away, and a strong current set us fost ashore, we came to anchor in thirty-
nine fathoms water, bottom black sand and mud. The latitude of this station was
found to be 42 degrees o8 minutes; longitude, east, 235 degrees, 44 niinutes [124
degrees 16 minutes]. In this situation the outer rock of the cluster mentioned bore
by compass south, sixteen east, six miles distant; a remarkable black rock, the nearest
shore, was north, 04 east, distant three and a half miles ; a very high, black dift',
resembling the gable end of a house, north, one point ea.st; the northernmost extremity
of the mainland, which is formed by low land projecting from the high, rocky coast a
considerable way into the sea, and terminating in a low, wedge-like, perpendicular
cliff", north, 27 west. This I distinguished by the name of Cape Orford, in honor uf
my much-respected friend, the noble earl (George) of that title. Off it lie several
rockv islets, the outwardinost of which bore north, 38 west.

470 SOUTHERN OEEGON.

" Soon after we had anchored, a canoe was seen pulhng toward the ship ; and with
the greatest confidence, and without any soi't of invitation, came immediately alongside.
During the afternoon two others visited the Discovery, and some repaired to the Chat-
ham [a tender], from diiferent parts of the coast in sight ; by which it ajjpears the
inhabitants may have their residence in the small nooks that are protected from the
westerly swell by the rocky islets. A j^leasing and courteous deportment distinguished
these people. Their countenances indicated nothing ferocious ; their features partook
rather of the general European character ; their color a light olive ; and besides being
protected in the fashion of the South Sea islanders, their skin had many other marks,
ap23arently from injuries received in their excursions through the forests, possibly with
little or no clothing that would protect them ; though some of us were of opinion that
these marks were purely ornamental. Their stature was under the middle size ; none
that we saw exceeded five feet six inches in height. They were tolerably well limbed,
though slender in their persons, and seemed to prefer the comforts of cleanliness to
the painting of their bodies ; in their ears and noses they had small ornaments of bone;
their hair, which was long and black, was tied in a club behind. They were dressed
in garments made principally of the skins of otter, bear, deer and fox. Their canoes
were wrought out of a single tree, were of the shape of a butcher's tray, and seemed
unfit for use in sea-voyages. They were scrupulously honest, and did not entertain the
least idea of receiving presents. We remained in this situation until near midnight,
when a light breeze springing up, we weighed ; and at daylight we directed our course
round the group of rocks lying off Cape Orford, comprehending four detached rocky
islets, with several dangerous sunken rocks near them, on which the sea broke with
violence. We passed close lo the breakers, in soundings of forty-five fathoms, black,
sandy bottom. Cape Orford, which is situated in latitude 42 degrees 52 minutes, lon-
gitude 235 degrees 35 minutes, at the extremity of a low projecting tract of land, forms
a very conspicuous point, and bears the same appearance whether it is approached
from north or south. It is covered with wood as low down as the surf will permit it
to grow. Some of us were of opinion that this was the Cape Blanco, of Martin
D'Aguilar ; its latitude, however, diftered greatly from that in which Cape Blanco is
placed by that navigator ; and its dark appearance did not seem to entitle it to the
name Blanco. North of this cape the coast takes the direction north, 13 east ; and
south of it towards Point St. George, south, 18 east.

" The rocky islets which we had seen in such numbers along the shore, ceased to
exist about a league to the northward of Cape Orford ; and in their stead, an almost
straight, sandy beach presented itself, with land behind gradually rising to a moderate
height near the coast, but considerably elevated in the interior, and much diversified by
its eminences and productions, being generally well wooded, though frequenth' inter-
rujjted with intervals of clear spots, which gave it some resemblance to a country in an
advanced state of cultivation."

In the year 1851, a great impetus was given to business on the northwest coast by
the discovery of the mines of Northern California and Southern Oregon. A great
emigration set in toward those famous placers, and traffic of all sorts assumed an extrav-
agant liveliness. Access to the mines was so difficult that from the first the invention
and enterprise of many persons were stimulated to overcome the costly, difficult and slow

CURRY COUNTY. 471

land transit. Ouly by means of narrow mountain trails from the Willamette on the
one hand, and the Sacramento on the other, could the valleys of Rogue and Klamath
rivers be reached. The universal mode of locomotion was on horse or mule back, or
in default of animals, by foot, and all merchandize was packed on animals over the
steep and dangerous trails for hundreds of miles, and at fabulous cost. Enterprising
speculators, realizing that there was more money in providing for the miners than in
being miners, set about exploring the northern sea-coast for suitable harbors near to
the diggings, from whence merchandise could be sent by much shorter routes to the
camps, and trade being diverted to the new sea-ports would serve to build them up and
so put money in the purses of the far-seeing individuals who owned the town. Crescent
City, Trinidad, Scottsburg, Gardiner, Umpqua City, and sundry other sea-ports of
greater or less prominence sprang up, were surveyed and communication was established
with the interior. Their fates have been various ; some have passed from existence
entirely, and in no case have they arisen to the importance once prugiiostieated by their
enthusiastic founders.

Port Orford had its birth under similar circumstances, in 1851. The founder was
Captain William Tichenor, still a resident of the place, who has partaken of its fortunes
for thirty-three years, and still has the strongest belief in its future importance. Cap-
tain Tichenor was one of the earliest to navigate the waters of this coast in a steamship.
Coming very early to California, as a sea-captain he held important positions in com-
mand of vessels, and ultimately in 1851, made cruises from San Francisco to the
Columbia in the steamer Sea Gull, and became acquainted with the coast between those
ports, and its various harbors, which, as every one knows, are poor, and few in number.
Becoming early impressed with the belief that Port Orford was the best haven of all
of them, and thinking that it offered great advantages also in being nearer the mines
to which he doubted not an easy and practicable route might be found, Ca^^tain Tichenor
began to interest other people in his plan, and soon formed a colony consisting of nine
men, whom he enlisted at Portland, Oregon, and set ashore from the Sea Gull when
that vessel reached Port Orford on her down trip to San Francisco. The men, with
fire-arms, ammunition, a small five-pound cannon, provisions, tools and other necessary
tilings were landed on the ninth of June, 1851, and the steamer proceeded on her way.
The men's names were — W. H. Kirkpatrick, J. H. Egan, Joseph Hussey, Cyrus Hed-
den, McCune, Rideout, R. E. Summers, called Jake ; P. D. Palmer and Slatei-.

According to the narrative of Kirkpatrick, their leader, this is what befell the lit-
tle band :

On landing they found the Indian dwellers along the coa.st aj)parciitly friendly.
They seemed to wish to trade. But when the steamer departed, difficulties ai)peareil.
The Indians became saucy, and finally, taking offense at something, witlnlrew in a pet.
The whites, now thoroughly alarmed, took a position on Battle Rock, an isolated rock
perhaps 100 yards from the main land, and only accessible therefrom at low tide, being
surrounded with water at other times. Here they brought their five-pounder and pi-i'-
pared to make resistance if the enemy approached in a hostile manner. They luui not
long to wait. The next morning the Indians returned, some forty in all, armed with
bows and arrows. They built fires and performed what was supposed to have been a
war dance. More Indians came, swelling the number to sixty ; ami these, uniteil, came

472 SOUTHERN OREGON.

upon the island, disregarding the colonists' threatening to shoot. The latter withdrew
to the highest part of the island, and were followed by the larger part of the savages,
headed by a chief, who seized a musket from the hands of a white man, but was clubbed
and driven away. The Indians began discharging arrows at the whites, and Kirk-
patrick, seizing a fire-brand, fired the little cannon with considerable effect. " This
threw them into confusion, which we followed up by a volley from our small arms.
Three of them got into cam]) and were knocked down by gun butts. After fifteen
minutes' fighting the Indians broke and fled, leaving thirteen of their number dead
upon the island. They fled to the hills and rocks and shot arrows at us for some time.
I afterward learned from an Indian at the mouth of the Umpqua that there were
twenty killed and fifteen wounded. Four of our men were wounded. The Indians
attacked us again in the afternoon, but without effect. Soon after a chief came upon
the beach, and throwing down his arms, made signs that he wanted to come into camp
We let him do so, Avhen by signs he sought permission to take away the dead. Tliis
we let him do, and told him by signs that we would go away in fourteen days. When
they had taken their dead they fired a few arrows at us and retired. We were
troubled no more by them until the fifteenth day, when they attacked us again.
There were many more in this fight than the other, at least fifteen to one of us. Their
chief came up and urged them in tones that could be heard- at least half a mile, but
could not prevail on them to make a rush at us. They shot their arrows at us from a
distance of 300 yards at least, but no one was hurt, though several arrows fell in camp.
We were in a critical condition. Our ammunition was about done — only eight or nine
rounds being left — and we were surrounded by at least 150 Indians. The only alter-
native left us was to take to the woods and make our way to the white settlements.
Here fortune favored us ; the Indians withdrew, went down to the mouth of a small
creek and kindled fires. Some stayed to watch us, but we went to work as if to
strengthen our breastwork, and they, too, departed. Having now an opportunity, we
escaped to the woods, taking only our small arms, and leaving the rest of our property
in camp. We traveled through the woods for about five miles, and then went upon the
beach. We had gone thereupon but a short distance when we met a party of thirty,
all armed with bows and arrows and knives. We rushed toward them to give them
fight in open ground, but they broke for the timber. Continuing a few miles further,
we crossed a large stream of water. Here we took to the woods, traveling therein two
days and nights, and then went out upon the coast. When we reached it we found a
trail where a great many Indians hail traveled up the coast. This we followed for about
five miles to the mouth of a small creek ; here the trail turned back again. We trav-
eled on the beach for about fifteen miles when we reached the mouth of Rogue river
[Coquille probably]. Here we found two large villages of Indians who appeared to
number 200, and prepared to fight. They kindled a fire on the top of the highest
bluff" near by. We had only the river between us, and had to take to the woods again.
We travelled up the river about eight miles and crossed on a raft of logs. We kept
two days in the woods and then came on the beach and spent four days, living on sal-
mon berries. On the fourth day we procured some mussels, which revived us. We
lived on them until we reached the Cowans (Coos) river ; here we got among friendly
Indians and procured something to eat. But we had to give them the shirts off" our

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> J.1-^

Capt.Wm.Tichenor.

CUKRY COUNTY. 473

backs to get them to ferry us over the river. When we crossed the stream, thinking it
was the Umpqua, we continued up it ten miles, when we found our error. We then
struck across the sand hills, waded a swamp and got to the coast. Next day we made
the mouth of the Umj^qua — it being the eighth day from camp — where we were
warmly greeted and entertained by the settlers at Umpcpia City and Gardiner."

Captain Tichenor returned, it appears, but one day after the departure of the nine
men, and was surprised and shocked to behold only such evidences of bloodshed and
violence as left no doubt but that the unfortunate colonists had all been murdered by
the natives. He returned to San Francisco firm in the belief that they were dead, but
nevertheless, pi'oceeded actively to colonize the place witn a strong force of men. He
had no trouble to procure adventurers who were willing to undertake anything that
promised excitement, and sixty-five volunteers presenting themselves, he embarked in
the Sea Gull with those, and six persons who had more or less pecuniary interest in
the venture, as well as several " agents,'' sj^eculators, etc. They had an armament of
a half-dozen field pieces, six-pounders, and a good assortment of small arms, and were
capitally provided for an offensive or defensive war on a pretty large scale. James
Gamble was commander of the colonists, in Captain Tichenor's absence, for the latter
did not cease his voyages and become a regular inhabitant of his new town until about
two years later. Fort Point was surrounded by pickets, and two block houses were
erected of heavy logs, whereby the defense of the place was secured. Some of the vol-
unteers proved insubordinate and had to be sent back to San Francisco, but beyond
tliis no trouble occurred at Port Orford in the subsequent year or two.

After landing the men and stores, the ship proceeded on her voyage to Portland,
and there Captain Tichenor secured the services of Colonel T'Vault, so well known in
the Rogue river valley in subsequent years. The Colonel had just returned from guid-
ing Phil Kearney's force of regulars from Vancouver to their station in California, and
being familiar with the Oregon trail, was thought a suitable iudividual for the work
that Captain Tichenor had for him, which was to explore the country lying between
the coast and that famous trail, and ascertain and locate a practicable route by which
the people of Port Orford could communicate with the interior. He was accordingly
engaged and brought to the port on the next voyage, and his subsequent adventures
form a chapter not less thrilling than the siege of Battle Rock. Horses were sliipped
tor use in the exploring expedition, and the new colony being well uuder way, T'Vault
and his men started eastwartl about August 20. The sufferings and adventures of the
little party were extraordinary, considering the short distance they penetrated and the
amount they effected. They were excellently armed, each of the ten explorers liaving
a rifle, and there were four pistols and sundry knives in the crowd. Nevertheless, tiiey
allowed themselves to go hungry iu a land where game and fish of many sorts abound
t(i this day. They arrived at a point some twenty-five miles due east of Port Orford,
and being bewildered and desperate, abandoned their horses and started on foot toward
the north, living on berries and roots. Their object was to reach the settlements on
the Umpqua. Reaching the south fork of the Coquille, they followeil that stream to
its confluence with the middle fork, near the present town of Norway, and here en-
gaged an Indian to take them down the river in his canoe. Arriving within two miles
of the mouth of the river the exi)lorers proposed to land at a large Indian village to

474 SOUTHERN OREGON.

procure food. Some objected, fearful of the consequences, but the boat drifting into
shallow water near the shore, the natives waded out, seized it and dragged it to the bank
and entering the canoe, began an attack on the whites. This is best told in Colonel
T'Vault's own words : " The Indians boarded the canoes and seized the arms, and the
whites simultaneously made a rush for the shore. Brush fired a shot — the only one
heard — and in less than fifteen seconds, the whites were completely disarmed, there
being at least three Indians to one white man. I sprang into the water while Brush,
■who was held by the Indians, was endeavoring to follow, while they were beating him
over the head with a paddle. I saw a canoe with a boy in it. The boy helped me
in, put a paddle in my hand and pointed down the river. He helped Brush also in,
and then immediately jumped overboard. AVe paddled to the southern bank, and
landing, stripped ourselves of our clothing and crawled into the swamp. We traveled
through bi'iery chaparral most of the day and took to the beach at night. With the
help of Indians we reached Port Orford. Mr. Brush had several inches of his scalp
torn away. The names of our companions were A. S. Dougherty, Patrick Murphy,
Thomas J. Davenport, L. L. Williams, John P. Holland, Jeremiah Eyan, Cyrus Hid-
den and J. P. Pepper."

Williams and Hidden reached the shore, lighting as they went, the former being-
engaged by a large Indian who threw him, but Williams' knife did good work, and the
two whites ran for the woods, Williams with an arrow shot into his body, entering his
liver and emerging at the opposite groin. Hidden drew out the shaft, leaving the head
and a three-inch socket in the wound. The two made their way along, holding their
pursuers at bay with their rifles, and eventually escaping them. The wounded man
soon began to suffer the most acute pains and begged to be allowed to lie down and die ;
but his faithful companion stayed by hira, bringing water, and supplying his wants as
best he could. Hidden, it will be remembered, was one of the nine who left Battle
Rock, and being somewhat acquainted with the country, they eventually succeeded, after
eight terrible days of exertion and exposure, in reaching the Umpqua river and there
found friends and assistance. For three years Williams lay helple.ss from his wounds
and suffering intensely, while Hidden, with almost unparalleled devotion, nursed him,
labored for the support of both, and eventually brought him through his troubles.
The arrow head was extracted in 1854, and Williams, as is well known, lived a useful,
active and valuable life for the remainder of his days. Hidden is now an honored and
respected merchant of Scottsburg.

In August, 1851, Doctor Anson Dart, superintendent of Indian affaii'S for Ore-
gon, and Reverends Spalding and Parrish, two missionaries, friends of Dr. Whitman,
of Waiilatpu, came to Port Orford on the Sea Gull, in order to investigate the Indian
question and pacify the natives if possible. On the same steamer came a detachment
of troops of Major Hathaway's command, at Fort George (Astoria), under Lieutenant
Whymau. A little later in the year Samuel Culver, Indian agent, arrived and took
charge of Indian affairs at and near Port Orford, Dart and the two missionaries leav-
ing on his arrival. More troops having been found desirable. General Hitchcock, in
command of the de^aartment of the Pacific, ordered Lieutenant-Colonel Silas Casey,
with a force of regulars, to Port Orford to investigate the condition of affairs and over-
awe the natives by a show of force, and to proceed to hostilities, if necessary.

CURRY COUNTY. 475

Eeacliing that place with ninety men, Casey detailed a portion of his force to pro-
ceed to the Coquille, as the story of the attack on T'Vault's exploring party had become
known. Lieutenant Stoneman, now governor of California, was an officer of the force^
and to him fell the duty of driving the Indians from their principal village. This he
effected by the fire of shells from a howitzer planted above the village. A large num-
ber of natives were killed on this expedition and the moral effect of the operations was
very great. In the same year the troops built the military post called Fort Orford,
which remained occupied until the removal of the Indians in 1856 rendered it value-
less, and it was abandoned.

The beach mines along the coast of Curry county were discovered in 18.53, and
began immediately to be worked. Several hundred men were employed there in the
following year, and the golden harvest continued for many years, but gradually fell
oft'. The miners came mostly from San Francisco, landing at Port Orford or Crescent
City, and business found its outlet by the same route. The county has always retained
its connection with the California metropolis, and seems rather a colony of that place
than a portion of Oregon. When the Indian war began, the mining interests, and in
fact everything in the way of business was prostrated in Curry county, every inhabited
])lace outside of Port Orford being devastated. Since then the county has maintained
a slight but healthy rate of growth, and has now a population of about 1,300, who are
all permanent settlers, whereas the mining population of the early years, while their
numbers were probably greater, were only a floating populace, whose influence was not
so valuable as that of a fixed community.

Curry county, originally a part of Jackson and later of Coos, was sei off from the
latter county by an act of the legislature which took effect on December 18, 1855.
This bill was introduced by Captain Ticheuor, then a member of the legislature and
in whose honor it was i^roposed to name the new county Tichenor ; but the captain
modestly objecting, the present name was adopted instead. The name of Orford county
had been previously suggested. The boundaries of Curry county were changed some-
what in 1872 by legislative enactment amending the original act, and at present they
are as follows : Beginning at the south line of section 21, township 30, range 15, west,
the line proceeds eastward to the dividing ridge of Horse creek and Coquille river ;
thence east along said ridge to the divide which forms the water-shed to the ea.st of the
tributaries of John Mule creek ; thence south to the parallel of forty-two degrees ;
thence west to the Pacific ocean; thence northward along the shore to the point of
beginning.

CHAPTER LIX.

THE PRINCIPAL INHABITED LOCALITIES.

The Northern Boundary— Denmark— Floras Flat— Sixes River- Fort Orford— Its Harbor— Proposed Breakwater
and Railway — Saw Mill— EUensburg— First Arrivals— Affairs in early years— The Massacre of 1856— The
Geisel Tragedy— The Whites besieged— Battle at Skookum House— EUensburg at Present— Hume's Cannery-
Pistol River— Chetco—Winchuck.

New river is generally regarded as forming the dividing line between Curry and
Coos counties. It is a small stream, some forty yards wide in the lower part of its
course, but spreading out at its mouth to several times that breadth. The next stream
to the south is Floras creek, a name of doubtful etymology. This water-course drains
quite an extensive region of rich farms, whose residents form the most important agri-
cultural community in the northern part of the county. Denmark post office and
store kept by N. C. Lorentzen, is the center or rallying point for the people of Floras
creek, and although no town exists at present no doubt the material growth of the com-
munity will soon build one up. There are more signs of enterprise and well-directed
energy about Denmark than in any other small locality in the whole region. It is a
striking example of the extraordinary vigor and foresight of the inhabitants of the
place that a newspaper has already been established. This is the Curry County Reconler,
a weekly paper, edited and published by J. H. Upton, an experienced journalist. The
Recorder deals mainly with local affairs, and is apparently well supported. The
publication office is in Mr. Upton's residence, one and a half miles from the post office.

The Floras creek flats, so-called, which constitute the greater part of the agricult-
ural land of this rich section, form a triangular tract of land, extending along the ocean
beach for twelve miles, and having a width of about half that. The stream itself is
small in summer, scarcely ankle deep, but wide and swift in winter. In its vicinity
are the thriving dairies of Thrift, Long, Langlois, and others, some of whom milk a
hundred cows, and make tons of excellent butter. The facilities for dairying in this
vicinity are very great. Floras lake, a body of clear fresh water, only 300 yards or so
from the ocean verge, is a peculiarity of this region and is one of the thi'ee small lakes
of the county. It is stocked with trout.

Sixes river enters the ocean some six miles south of Floras creek ; its course is
nearly w'est from its head in the mountains where rise the south fork of the Coquille
river and Russell and Catching creeks. Sixes is the transformed Indian word Shix.
The stream does not flow through a great area of tillable land, but has extensive
resources in lumber, placer and quartz mines, salmon fisheries, and stock grazing lands
of great importance. None of these sources of wealth have yet been fully utilized or
even examined; but the influx of population expected in the immediate future may
remedy the neglect. About the head of Sixes river several quartz claims have been

fl

J

CURRY COUNTY. 477

prosjiected, and along the stream some gold-bearing gravel has been washed. Here, and
on Elk creek also, immense quantities of the finest cedar, tir, spruce, hemlock, and
laurel (mis-called myrtle), are standing, sufficient to feed the mill saws for j'ears. On
the latter stream is the Elk creek mill, owned by Joseph Nay, which saws 10,000 feet
of white cedar daily, the lumber being hauled to Port Orford, over a wagon road, and
then loaded upon vessels and sent to San Francisco. Mr. Nay owns 1,000 acres of
land, mostly covered with a fine growth of timber. The mill is four miles inland, and
the logs are rafted to it by the current of Elk creek. The mill and machinery cost
$15,000, and commenced sawing in July, 1883. Its product of white cedar brings
usually thirty-five, twenty-five, and sixteen dollars per thousand feet, according to
class. It costs five dollars per thousand to transport to the shipping point.

Port Oi'ford is situated in township 33, range 15, west, in forty-two degrees, forty-
four minutes, north latitude, and one hundred and twenty-four degrees, thirty minutes
longitude west of Greenwich. The name refers indifferently to the harbor and to
the small, but important town which has grown up on the shore. The name Orford
was bestowed on Cape Blanco, by Vancouver, whence it was transferred to this shel-
tered haven. Sometimes the bay has been called Ewing harbor, and is so marked on
certain maps. The haven, writes Cajjtain Tichenor, is a deep and capacious roadstead,
abundantly sheltered from all winds except the southwesters, having in the northwest
a headland 150 feet high, which is perpendicular on the side toward the anchorage.
The bottom is reckoned first-class holding ground for anchorS; and there is a minimum
depth of from seven to ten fathoms of water in the channel. The engineers of the
governmental coast survey have pronounced this the finest and most accessible summer
harbor on the coast between San Francisco and Puget Sound, and a movement has
been set on foot to construct at Port Orford a stone breakwater, which is much needed
for comjjlete immunity against the storms of winter. This would necessarily be a gov-
ernment work, requiring money appropriations and official supervision. With the com-
pletion of the work the port would undoubtedly become of vast importance, second to
few other towns on the coast. In addition to this it has been proposed, and urged to
some extent, to connect Port Orford by rail with some point on the Oregon and Cali-
fornia railroad, preferably Roseburg. Two easy and practicable routes are said to exist,
the one leading north to the Coquille river, thence up that stream to the junction of
the south and middle fork, and then by way of Camas valley to the south Unqxpia ;
the other from the coast up Sixes river and by way of Salmon creek to the south fork.
A pass only 1,200 feet above sea-level has been found on the latter route and will
doubtless be utilized. The road Avould pass through a finely-timbered and well-watered
country, abounding in minerals, such as coal, which is found in quantity, iron, chrome
and copper ores, and with immense bodies of yellow pine and white cedar. The routes
have been "surveyed and pronounced practicable.

Port Orford is the most important shipping point for lumber, tlie supjily being
furnished by two of the three sawmills in Curry county, namely, the Elk creek mill
of Joseph Nay, and the Hubbard creek mill, located a mile south of town. The hit-
ter's capacity'is 17,000 feet per day. Its beginning was a small concern built in 1874,
by E. J. (iould and Company. In 1870 the mill was enlarged by the Port Orford
Cedar Company, N. C. Lorentzen, manager, and a wharf was built, 500 feet long, reach-

478 SOUTHERN OREGON.

ing to a rock that extends 160 feet further. The total cost of the mill, wharf, timber
and dam was |62,000. Some ten or fifteen million feet of first-class timber yet re-
mains on Hubbard creek, after the immense quantity cut by the mill.

On the discovery of gold along the ocean beach, Port Orford became a shipping
point for the miners who flocked in, and achieved a high degree of prosperity. It had
hotels, stores, billiard jmrlors, and all the concomitants of a mining camp, and its mer-
chants— of Avhom the firm of Tichenor and Company were the most influential — did a
large wholesale and retail business. There were at one time, says Mr. Riley, a 2^10-
neer of EUensburg, who once lived at Port Orford, six hotels, nine stores, and a cor-
responding number of saloons and dwellings. These were but temporary, and on the
decay of mining they mostly went out of existence. In 1853 H. Tichenor built a
saw mill two miles north of town and cut a great deal of lumber, but shut down after a
few years. A serious fire occurred about twenty years since, which swept away nearly
the whole town, since which it has never regained its former size.

EUensburg, the county seat and place of the most importance in the county, is
located on the south side of the embouchure of Eogue river. When the beach mines
were first worked that point became a center of population, and on or near Gold Beach,
as the locality was called, there sprung up the villages or camps known as Hogtown,
Elizabethtown and EUensburg, whereof the latter has outlived her rivals. Captain
Tichenor's daughter was the original of this pretty name. There were few families
in the early years, the miners making up the great bulk of the population ; but
later on jjermanent settlers began to arrive and women and children were more fre-
quently met with. The Waddell family is thought to have come first, followed by
the Geisels, Thorps, Holtons (now of Josephine county) and Rileys, the latter being
still residents of EUensburg.

The pioneer merchants of EUensburg were the two firms of Augustus and John
Upton, and Huntley and O'Brien. They brought their goods at first from Crescent
City, in the "Gold Beach," a small sloop which made frequent trips along the coast
and furnished means of communication for a considerable time. Afterwards the firm
of Pratt and Blake was established, and owned or chartered a schooner, the Rambler,
which traded with San Francisco. F. H. Pratt, now of EUensburg, organized and con-
ducted the first pack-train between Crescent City and Gold Beach. In the subsequent
Indian troubles the natives destroyed his establishment, burning the store and carrying
off the most of the goods. The same fate befell the remainder of the little settlement,
and it is reckoned that forty-one white persons lost their lives near the mouth of the
river during those perilous times. The names of twenty-six victims are given in
another place — they who perished in the massacre of the twenty-second of February,
1856. To these we must add the names of E. Huntley and John Clevenger, who were
betrayed by Enos and murdered near the mouth of the Illinois river, a few days before,
the greater calamity. The most celebrated incident in the tragedy was the murder of
John Geisel. The Geisels, father, mother and five children dwelt about five miles
north of the river. The Indians entered the house while the inmates were in bed and
instantly attacked them. Mrs. Geisel, in endeavoring to defend herself, was cut with
a knife, and her husband was stabbed to death instantly. The three boys, aged nine,
seven, and five years, respectively, Avere also butchered, and the female members of the

CUERY COUNTY. 479

family, comprising Mrs. Geisel, her daughter Mary, aged thirteen, and an infant, were
made prisoners and compelled to remain with the savages for eighteen days, when they
were surrendered to the whites. Negotiations were entered into for their recovery
when it was discovered that they were living and were captives, and after considerable
diplomacy, they were exchanged for a squaw held by the whites, with some blankets
and money in addition. Mrs. Geisel, now Mrs. Edson, is a resident of Ellensburg^
and her infant companion in captivity has grown to womanhood and also resides in
that town. The eldest daughter, Mary, now Mrs. H. G. Blake, lives in Chetco.

The whites fortified themselves on the north side of the river, opposite Sebastopol,
as Ellensburg was then called, and all the surrounding settlers drew inlo the protection
of the fort. The structure was of logs, and stood in a well selected site, a mile and a
half from the river, and within gunshot of the ocean. Around it a ditch was dug,
which was filled with water and crossed by a draw-bridge. It proved an efficient pro-
tection, and when, after a few days, the natives assaulted it, they were able to make no
impression, and soon withdrew. Shortly after, a jiarty of fifteen white men from the
fort were ambushed by the Indians while endeavoring to get a lot of potatoes that had
been cached near the mouth of the river. Six of the whites were killed, the names of
four of them being Oliver, Eichardson, Schmoldt, and Bullem. Four more whites
were soon after drowned in the breakers opposite the fort, while attempting to beach a
boat loaded with supplies from Port Orford. When the regular troops arrived, the
settlers mostly took up arms to clear the country of Indians, while the non-combatants,
the women and children, went to Port Orford for safety. The savages withdrew to a
fortification of their own, fifteen miles up the river, and on the south bank. This
fort, called " Skookum house," was perhaps the most carefully prepared defensive
work ever undertaken by the Indians, and probably owed its design to the notorious
Euos, the moving sj^irit among the Indians, and the person to whom the sanguinary
acts of the time were directly due. This fortress was taken by a combined force of
regulars and volunteers, the former under Captains Ord and Augur, the civilians com-
manded by E. H. Meservey and Ralph Bledsoe. Surprising the savages by the unex-
pectedness of their attack, the volunteers drove them from "Skookum house," and the
fleeing Indians became targets for the regulars, who were posted in the bushes on the
river. Many were shot and drowned, and altogether the natives sustained quite a
defeat. This action occurred a few days after Smitli's fight at Big Meadows.

On the conclusion of hostilities, all the Indians in Southern Oregon, save a few
scattering individuals, were removed to the Coast reservation. The few who were left
were near Pistol river, and held out against the whites and committed various acts of
violence. They besieged Robert Smith's cabin, on Pistol river, but were kept off" by
three miners inside. A company of miners was then formed to hunt these savages,
and Lieutenant Eyre, of the regular army, with a detachment, came to assist. The
Indians attacked and captured the military pack train, killed one man, Haybachor, by
name, hamstringed the mules, and escaped. Two of them were finally captured, and
being taken to Ellensburg, were despatched by the miuci's, and the other males were
killed, it is said, by the Smith river Indians, in considei-ation of a ])rice of one hun-
dred dollars set upon the head of each. This was jn-obably in 1858. Other accounts
are to the effect that these Indians, instead of being killed, were taken to tlie roscrv;itii)n.

480 SOUTHERN OEEGON.

The present asi^ect of Ellensburg is moderately lively and flourishing. There is
a very good weekly newspaper, edited and published by Walter Sutton, a journalist of
discrimination and judgment. This is the Curry County Post, which was established
at Port Orford, in May, 1880, by J. H. Upton and son, but being purchased by the
present proprietor, was removed to Ellensburg in July, 1880. On the following six-
teenth of September, the first number printed at this place appeared, and since that
time it has continued to be published regularly. The Post is an indispensable institu-
tion in the county, and fills an important position in the public estimation.

The Kogue river is noted for the quality and quantity of the salmon caught in
its waters. There are two distinct runs of these fish, called the spring run and the
fall run, the first taking place in April, May and June, the fall run occurring mainly
in September and October. The latter run is most abundant, but the fish taken in the
spring run are the best in quality. A. F. Myers established a fishery at Ellensburg,
in 1857, for the i^urpose of taking, salting and barreling salmon. From this compar-
atively small beginning, the business has increased until there are now ten thousand
cases of canned salmon shipped yearly, as an average product. This business is the
most important and lucrative in the whole county, and is conducted at a single cannery,
which is owned by R. D. Hume. The necessary buildings are built over the water,
resting upon piles, and contain apparatus for cleaning, cutting up and packing the fish,
as well as for the manufacture of cans and cases. Mr. Hume has, with rare foresight,
taken great pains to keep up the quantity of living salmon, both by abstaining from
catching too many and also by establishing a hatchery wherein the fertilized salmon
eggs can be brought to maturity, and an immense number of small fry let loose to
replace those annually caught.

Ellensburg contains a court house, situated at the lower extremity of the town ;
a school house of excellent pretensions ; the ofiice and drug store of Dr. Von Der Green,
the only physician in the county ; Miss Geisel's millinery establishment, the post office,
three hotels, cooper shop, blacksmith shop, shoe-shop, store, saloons, oflices, etc. Gold
Beach lodge, No. 70, A. F. and A. M , and Rogue River Grange, No. 190, Patrons of
Husbandry, meet in Ellensburg. The steam saw mill has been an important factor in
the destinies of the place.

About 1871 Hastings and Sanders built a small grist mill four miles above Ellens-
burg. They made the mill stones from rock which themselves quarried out, and began
to make flour to supply the local demand. Hastings was unfortunately drowned ; and
the partner has since run the mill. He does not turn out sufficient flour for all the
demand, and the remainder is brought by sea mostly from San Francisco by the
steamer 3Iary D. Hume. The ruling prices of articles on the coast of Curry county^
of course vary with circumstances as elsewhere, but may in general be said to conform
to this list, which exhibits them for the fall of 1883. Hay, twelve dollars per ton ;
salmon, twenty cents each ; potatoes, cabbage, wheat, oats and barley, each two cents
per pound ; fresh pork, retail, eight to ten cents ; fresh beef, retail, twelve to fifteen
cents ; butter, twenty-five to forty cents. Wheat, flour, horse feed and even vegeta-
bles, are at times brought from San Francisco, while hundreds of acres of excellent
myrtle bottom exist not far from Ellensburg, capable, if cleared and cultivated, of pro-
ducing enormous crops of vegetables, clover, grain, etc., and supplying ten times the

CURRY COUNTY. 481

demand of the small coast population. Were there cheap, .sj)eedy and regular means
of transportation to and from San Francisco, Curry county ought to furnish that me-
tropolis with many of the above articles, instead of receiving them from her.

The trail southward from EUensburg crosses Hunter's creek, a small stream, with
a narrow valley, cultivated by a few settlers. The region all about is extremely wild
and romantic, both ocean and niountainward. Grazing is much pursued, and upon
the " prairies " many sheep may be seen. Between Hunter's creek and Pistol river
the trail ascends a very high mountain, where a splendid view of the Pacific may be
gained. Pistol river is larger than the first mentioned stream, and is fifteen miles by
the trail from Rogue river. Upon this stream also dwell settlers wdio have made valu-
able improvements. Near Whale's Head — a remarkable promontory bearing a resem-
blance to that animal — is a considerable tract of fertile land, upon which R. Scott is
located and has an excellent establishment, devoted mainly to grazing. Fourteen miles
beyond is Chetco (so called from the name of an Indian tribe) where dwells quite a
c immunity of farmers, graziers and dairymen, who make up a section ranking fourth
in the county as to population. The soil is extremely fertile, and within the limited
area of the section there are ample opportunities for a self-supporting population to
thrive and prosper. The Chetco river or creek is crossed by two feri'ies — Miller's,
nearest the mouth, and Smith's, two miles above. At the latter the stream is about
120 yards wide and is fordable in summer. For a dozen miles or so along the stream,
settlers possess and are clearing the rich soil, and so making pleasant homes for them-
selves and their posterity. South of the creek a bench of level and rich soil begins, a
mile in width, fronting on the ocean and backed by low, fern-covered hills which lie
toward the east. Here are some very fine farms, mainly devoted to wdieat raising, but
possessing orchards and other improvements Some prominent settlers are the Cooleys,
Blake and McVay. William Kirk keeps a store at a point a fourth of a mile south of
the Blake ranche. The port of Chetco hardly deserves the name of harbor, being
only a landing where the steamer Hume and schooner Ester Cobos occasionally call, to
bring merchandise and carry away wool, hides and dairy products. The Chetco coun-
try has often been called Egypt, since at one time it supplied nearly all of Del Norte
county with wheat. In this region are to be found good roads — very rare in the
remainder of the county. There are no mills, either for lumber or Hour making in
Clietco, but the wheat is hauled to Smith's river, six miles beyond the state line, and
there ground into flour. Lumber is also i)urchased in Del Norte county. There are
two small fisheries on Chetco creek but the catch is transferred to Del Noi-te county
for canning and shipment. Dairying is quite an industry hereabouts, and an excellent
article of butter is made on various ranches, particularly J. A. Cooley's " Fountain
ranch," which is well fitted up, having a stream of running water to propel the churn,
and also to keep the temperature of the dairy house at the right point.

Winchuck— an Indian word— is the nan\e of a snudl river, the southernmost
stream in Curry county, and aimnst ui)on the state line. Salmon swarm in the Win-
chuck and J. B. Wilson has the small beginning of a fi.shery, where he puts up a hun-
dred barrels each year. Upon and about the lower i)ortion of the river there are set-
tlers, mostly recent ones, who are carving out hom&s for themselves in a promising local-
ity, though a very isolated one.

482 SOUTHERN OREGON.;

Altliough the Winchuck is looked upon as the dividiug line between California and
Oregon, its mouth is half a mile north of the true boundary, which is the forty-second
parallel. Upon the beach can be seen a stone post which marks the line accurately.
A farm house near by stands upon the line, and its distinguished owner enjoys the
felicity of eating in the one state and sleeping in the other. Upon the north side of
the river, and consequently in Oregon, is a grove of redwood trees — the sequoia sem-
pervirens — supposed to be the only living reijresentatives of this species in the state.

coos COUNTY,

CHAPTER LX.

THE SOUTHERN PORTION OF THE COUNTY

Boundaries of Coos County— The Coquille and its Tributaries— Splendid Forests— Valley of the Coquille— Her-
mansville and its Founder -Myrtle Point— Catching Creek— Forks of the Coquille — Norway— The Coquille
Navigable— Coquille City— The Road to Coos Bay— Parkersburg— The Salmon Cannery— Grube's Saw Mill
Randolph— Bandon— The Coquille Bar.

Coos county is situated on the coast of Southern Oregon, and is bounded on the
north and east by the county of Douglas, on the south by Curry and on the west by
the Pacific ocean. The county is irregular in outline, and has a length from north to
south of about fifty miles, with a maximum breadth of about thirty. Its area is ap-
proximately 1,100 square miles, or about 700,000 acres of land. Its surface is very
broken and diversified, containing mountains, though not of great altitude, valleys,
streams, swift or sluggish, and finally a bay of considerable extent. Generally speak-
ing, the contour of Coos county is basin-like, with hills completely surrounding it, and
forming its rim, excepting on the western edge, which terminates at the sea beach. At
this particular part of the coast of Oregon, the Coast Range mountains recede from
the ocean, leaving a comparatively level tract of land which forms the greater portion
of Coos county, and approaching the sea to the north and south the mountain spurs cut
off" and isolate the region almost perfectly. That part of the Coast Range lying east
of Coos county is usually termed the Umpqua mountains ; and those to the south and
southwest are called the Rogue river mountains. The two chains are continuous, how-
ever, their point of union being at Camas valley, on the headwaters of the middle fork
of the Coquille, where a low pass exists, whereby communication takes place from east
to west. Passes exist also at other localities, but of less flivorable character for ordinary
communication. The most frequently traveled route between Coos county and the val-
ley to the eastward is the Coos bay stage road, which ascends the north fork of the
Coquille and crosses the range at the head of Brewster canyon and west of Looking-
glass valley. To the north of the stage road the mountains are exceedingly rough and
mountainous and entirely impassable. Among them several streams head, those in the
west side flowing into Coos bay, while the eastern slope is drained by the Umpqua. A
still larger number of streams rises among the Rogue river chain — the Coquille and it.s
tributaries draining the northern and western slope, the South Umpqua the oastcni,
and the Rogue river the southern.

484 SOUTHERN OREGON.

Coos county is divided naturally into two topographical sections, the valleys of the
Coquille and Coos bay. The country drained by the Coquille foi'ms about two-thirds
of the total area of the county, and comprises the southern part. The tributaries of
that river are its three branches, called north, middle and south forks; Russell, Catch-
ing, Hall, and other creeks, and many sloughs. The Coquille itself is formed by
the confluence of its forks at the head of tide water near Myrtle Point and flows into
the ocean sixteen miles due west of the point of junction, but forty-five miles, if the
meanderings of the stream be counted. For all the distance it is navigable for small
vessels, and for the lower twenty miles for craft of large size. Consequently the stream
is of great importance to the county, affording a reliable and cheap means of commu-
nication. It serves the purpose of a highway, and nearly all traffic is carried on by
means of boats borne upon its waters. It forms the longest navigable highway in Ore-
gon south of the Willamette. The Coquille, as well as its tributaries, flows through a
heavily wooded country. Splendid forests of fir, cedar, myrtle, maple and other beau-
tiful and valuable woods adorn the banks, and cover the hills and valleys as far as the
vision can extend. The soil that supports these growths is of a rich description, being-
composed of the finely divided particles of sandstone worn from the mountains which
compose the Coast Eange, and brought down by the torrents in winter and deposited
on the lower part of their course, where, mingled with vegetable matter, they form a
soil of a light, porous nature, easily worked but wonderfully productive of nearly every
known crop. These are the myrtle bottoms, so styled by the settlers because the myi"-
tle is found growing thereupon. The myrtle groves are extremely beautiful, the stately
shafts of the trees resembling, with their spreading capitals of limbs and leaves, some
imaginative picture of an ancient cathedral. The shade is veiy dense, nearly every
rav of sunlight being interrupted by the thick crown of lance-shajjed leaves interlock-
ing from tree to tree, so that a sort of twilight always reigns. The usual height of the
myrtle is about sixty feet and the trunk is bare of limbs for a great part of its height.
The myrtle has great value as an ornamental wood suitable for cabinet making. It
grows in such vast quantities in the low lands along the coast that no demand could
ever arise which could not be fully met. It is said that under certain conditions of
temperature that this wood is liable to decay, but that point is not yet fully settled _
Aside from its value as fuel, this beautiful, hard, dense and finely-grained wood is not
in extensive use or demand. The fir, of three species, yellow, red and white, is being
converted into lumber as fast as circumstances require. Nowhere in the world does
the fir attain a greater size than in Coos county. It forms a resource of great impor-
tance, though by no means an inexhaustible one. The same remarks apply to the
white cedar, with the qualifications that this tree is more in demand, as its lumber brings
a higher price, is less abundant and likely to become extinct in comparatively few
years.

The valley proper of the Coquille is about four miles wide, and the greater part of
the land included in it would be tillable if cleared of the trees. The fertility of the
myrtle bottoms, which occur on nearly all the streams in Coos county, as well as Curry
and the western part of Douglas, is amazing. Crops of all sorts that are suited to the
climate flourish exceedingly, and the soil being deep and porous admits of thorough
drainage and easy cidtivation. There is, however, great difficulty in clearing these

coos COUNTY. 485

lands, for the myrtle is extremely tenacious of life, and after the tree is felled the stump
retains its vitality for generations, and will continue to put forth rank, green shoots
which grow rapidly and require to be trimmed off each year. It costs, say the farmers
of the Coquille, not less than fifty doUai's to clear an acre of myrtle bottom, and con-
sequently comi^aratively few acres are yet denuded of their trees. It is the prevailing
impression that for vegetables and cultivated crops of all kinds, and for clover and
grasses generally, these lands are not exceeded in the world. This is the belief which
thirty years of hard experience has taught, and that no one who has traveled through
the Coquille country will deny.

Upon the Coquille and its tributaries are Hermansville, Ott, Gravel Fort, Myrtle
Point, Norway, Dora, Sitkum, Fairview, Coquille City, Parkersbui-g, Randolph and
Bandou — all_ places of note, and some importance.

Beginning with the tributaries, we learn that Hermansville takes its name from
Dr. Hermann, of Baltimore, who led a colony of industrious and intelligent Germans to
Coos county in 1859, and settled upon the rich bottom lands of the south fork, a few
miles from its mouth. Here the colonists made homes for themselves and prospered
finely by the exercise of industry, and acquired skill in their new pursuit of fiirming.
The leader was a gentleman of the highest integrity and the noblest impulses. To him
the country owes a great debt, as he drew into its borders an intelligent class of men
nearly all of whom have proved most exemplary citizens, and some of them still live,
venerated and respected by all. The younger generation of the colony have grown
now to manhood and middle age and occupy important positions in the community.
Hermansville, the family seat of the Hermanns, is still in the possession of the family,
and is the residence of the mother ; but Doctor Hermann has passed over to the silent
majority, having died on the sixteenth of December, 186U. Myrtle Point, located near
the mouth of the north fork, is a village of importance and promise. It has a good
location at the head of tidewater, and stands upon a plateau sufficiently elevated above
the river to secure immunity from floods, and is capitally situated for trade, and sup-
plies the valleys of the south and middle forks with merchandize and receives in
exchange, the products of those fertile regions. The population of the village is about
150. It has two stores dealing in general merchandise, a drug store, post office, two
excellent hotels, a lawyer's office, butcher and blacksmith shops, furniture shop, and
other buildings, but no saloons. There is an excellent brass band, and a literary society.

On the site of Myrtle Point was once an Indian village. Ephraim Catching filed
a donation claim to it in 1853, and in 1861 a village was platted and laid out by Henry
Myers, from whom it was named Myersville. The great freshet of 1801-2 put a period
to the progress of the new town. In 1876, another name was bestowed — that it now
holds — and the place was again surveyed. The name is derived from the beautiful
myrtle groves near by. A steam grist mill was erected by C. Lehnherr, which for a
time formed the only business of the place ; but Binger Hermann, obtaining a valuable
part of the site, commenced building actively, and has made the town the busiest place
in the county. INIr. Hermann has erected a fine hotel, thought to be the best in
Southern Oregon ; an immense store 100 feet long, with a concert hall in the second
story ; warehouses, and other buildings. The annual sales by the merchants of ^lyrtle
Point amount to about |oO,000, and the cost of freight from San Francisco is eight

486 SOUTHERN OREGON.

dollars per tou. The average value of cleared farming laud uear the towu is forty
dollars per acre, and the cost of clearing is supposed to average thirty per acre.- There
is so)ne vacant government land near by, but it is hilly and covered with timber, tlie
most of which has been ruined by forest fires. The lumber men of the vicinity sell
their logs at the mill, being at the pains of felling and peeling them, hauling them to
the stream and floating them to the mill. Here they receive five dollars per thousand
for first-class fir, and three dollars for second-class. Cedar commands ten and eight
dollars for the first and second classes respectively, and ash, somewhat more valuable,
sells in small quantities for twelve dollars per thousand feet. Biuger Hermann estimates
that there are 50,000 acres of timber standing upon the south fork, 28,000 upon the
middle fork, and 75,000 upon the north fork. This estimate of course includes the
lesser tributaries of these streams. The whole area is thought to contain 800,000,000
feet of timber, the most of it of a good quality, and part of it unexcelled for any uses to
which lumber may be put. Fir is the most abundant kind, but there are very fine
bodies of Port Orford cedar upon the south fork.

Catching creek empties into the South fork, a mile above Myrtle Point. It is a
small stream, only large enough to float saw logs, for which purpose it is made available.
It heads at White Rock, uear tlie Curry county line; has a course of twelve miles,
passing through a narrow valley in which reside ten settlers with their families. These
are mostly farmers, and do some lumbering besides. They have a school house. The
mail route to Denmark, Curry county, passes up this creek and through Lost Prairie
near its head, and over the high divide leading to Floras creek. All about that region
are grazing lands in abundance — prairies with the richest grass, and streams of excel-
lent water — a great deal of the territory unoccupied as yet. Catching creek received
its name from one of the first settlers in the neighborhood. In the Indian troubles of
1856 a stockade was built near the mouth of this creek, by the settlers and some vol-
unteers from Port Orford, who came up with Captain John Creighton, to protect the
people living thereabouts. J. B. Dully, E. Catching, Abram Hoffman, William Myers,
H. H. Woodward, William Rowland, and Miller were among the first settlers in
the upper Coquille valley. Daily's claim was wliere Ratclift 's mill now stands.

The settlers on the middle fork with their families, are thought to number from
350 to 400 persons. They have a post ofiice. Enchanted Prairie by name, which is a
considerable distance up the stream, and nearly due east from Myrtle Point. This
place was settled first by George Barber, in 1853. There is no saw mill upon the
stream, but two grist mills have been put up, owned by A. H. Fish and O. Reed, the
latter's being at the mouth of the fork, not far from Myrtle Point. For a considerable
distance above Enchanted Prairie the middle fork passes through narrow canyons, but
near its head the traveler comes to Camas valley, on the western edge of Douglas
county. Here the stream rises, flowing thence in a generally westerly direction.

On the north fork a considerable amount of cultivatable land exists, mostly in
small and isolated sections. The myrtle grows plentifully, and many clearings have
been made, but the badness of the so-called road — the only one in that part of the
county — prevents the pleasant valley from being settled. Sitkum is the name of a
stage station in Brewster canyon, thirty-two miles west of Roseburg, and an equal
distance from Coos City. Ten miles below is Dora, the residence of Mr. Scofield, who

coos COUNTY. 487

is postmaster. Ne;ir by is a school house. The stage road, leaving Dora, turns
toward the Coos bay region, but here begins another and equally bad trail which leads
along the north fork, through a pleasant and sparsely settled country to the forks of
the river. Two miles below Dora, and on the north fork, there is a small saw mill,
built for supplying the demand of the neighborhood, and capable of cutting 2,000 feet of
lumber daily.

Norway, three miles below Myrtle Point, is usually reckoned the head of naviga-
tion on the Coquille, although the small steamers in use upon the river are able to
ascend to Myrtle Point, except in the lowest stages of water. Norway is a small post-
office town, containing a population of fifty or seventy-five people, with hotels, a store,
etc., and comfortable and commodious dwellings. Surrounding the place are quite a
number of farms, progressively and intelligently cultivated.

The Coquille, from Norway to the sea, is a sluggish, deep and comparatively nar-
row stream, well adapted for navigation. Its banks are lined with various sorts of veg-
etable growth, of the most luxuriant description. The trees are mostly myrtle and
vine-maple, with a considerable variety of other species. At places on this beautiful
stream the spreading myrtles form almost an entire arch, overhanging the water for
miles. Nothing can exceed the picturesqueness of the scenery of the Coquille and its
tributaries.

The Coquille, as has been said, is navigable. Sea-going vessels, mostly schooners,
come in from the Pacific and load with lumber at Parkersburg or Coquille City, or
with salmon at the cannery, and by the aid of a tug pass down stream and put to sea.
Local traffic on the river is already very considerable, for about 2,000 people derive
their necessary supplies of merchandise through this one artery of commerce. Two
steamers ply upon the river, the propeller Ceres and the stern-wheeler Little Annie.
They make alternate trijis between Bandon and Norway, or Myrtle Point, touching at all
the landings upon the river, which are many. The length of their trip is forty miles^
and they occupy a day in making it, and return the next day.

Coquille City is the most populous town upon the river, and is a place of no moan
pretensions. It possesses a paper, the Coquille Herald, edited and published by Mr.
Dean, who issued the first number but a year since, and has already built up a satisfac-
tory circulation. The Herald deals mainly with local affairs, paying great attention to
the resources of the Coquille region. It is an accurate source of news, painstaking
and reliable in every respect, and considered as a local paper has not a superior in
Oregon. The Coquille City steam saw and grist mills are the most important industries
of the town. They were built in 1880 by Bunch, Bennett and Company, but are now
owned by B. Hermann. The saw mill has a capacity of 15,000 feet of lumber per
day, and contains circular saws, edgers, and planing and matching machines. The
shipments are made to San Francisco, and average one schooner load per month, con-
sisting of white cedar and planed fir lumber. The number of employees is fifteen,
and their wages range from forty to one hundred dollars per month each. About
three million feet of lumber is annually made at the mill, for which the local prices
are, for rough, second-class fir, nir.e dollars per thousand; fiooring, eighteen dollars;
rustic, sixteen dollars ; first-class cedar, forty dollars.

488 SOUTHERN OREGON.

The town contains two hotels, several stores, a drug store, post office and the usual
assortment of blacksmith and carpenter shops found in a place of this kind. There is
also a brewery. Evan Cunningham was the pioneer of the place, coming in very early
years, where very few white men had entered the country.

Iowa slough enters the Coquille about twelve miles above the bar. Its former name
was Dead Man's slough, given on account of the murder of two white men, Venable
and Burton, upon its banks in 1854. Five Indians were suj)posed to have been con-
cerned in this act, and three of them being captured, were taken to Randolph and
hanged. One of the others was hanged on Battle Rock at Port Orford, as before men-
tioned.

Traffic between the Coquille valley and Coos bay is conducted very peculiarly.
Travelers may pass between Coquille City and Marshfield by means of a road, difficult
and sometimes nearly impassable ; or they may take the celebrated Beaver slough
route, by which freight is usually brought into the Coquille region. It is a very pecul-
iar mode of traveling and somewhat beyond ordinary powers of description. Poets
have sung the terrors and trials incident to the Beaver slough i^assage, and careworn
passengers have compared the whole thing to the horrors of the African slave ships.
Setting out from Myrtle Point, the traveler is ordinarily compelled to walk about a
mile and a half when. Providence permitting, he is taken into a small boat and rowed
to the Ceres or the Little Annie, and conveyed to the mouth of Beaver slough, a few
miles below Coquille City ; here awaits him a long, double-ended skiff, manned by two
oarsmen, whose business it is to pole the boat up the narrow, still and tortuous, ditch-
like slough for a few miles, when the traveler gets into a wagon and is transported sev-
eral miles further to the far-famed isthmus railway, where, on a car drawn by a dummy
engine, he is brought to Isthmus slough at a point where the water is navigable to the
bay and he reaches Marshfield, finishing his journey by steamer, after having exper-
ienced the delights of travel on foot, in skiffs, by two different steamers, in a mud-
wagon and by train, at an expense of a dollar or two and a day's time.

The next place of importance on the Coquille below Beaver slough is Parkersburg,
a mill site, located on a bluff on the south bank of the river. The place derives its
name from Captain Parker, a prominent individual who has inhabited the county for
many years, and who, in company with M. L. Hanscom, built a saw mill at the place
named. This mill, after producing a great deal of lumber, was burned, and a new
one built to replace it. The present structure Is a very imposing one, being situated
at a considerable height above the water's edge, and is 120 feet long. It was finished
in the fall of 1883 and is provided with the best of machinery, steam propelled, and
has an immense capacity. Surrounding it are quite a number of neat cottages, the
residences of those who are engaged in or about the mill. This is the station of the
tug boat Katie Cook, which is used to tow vessels in and out of the river. A new
hotel is being built at Parkersburg, and the place has had a postpffiee for some time.
Near Parkersburg is the fish canning establishment of the Coquille Packing Com-
pany. This is an important and quite recent enterprise, begun in the spring of 1883
hy D. H. Getchell, Frank N. Getchell, E. W. Getchell, J. ^Y. Hume, S. A. Miller and
E. R. Hawes, who compose the association, the object being to make use of the enor-
mous number of salmon which run in the Coquille. Perfect success crowned their

coos COUNTY. 489

efforts, and a business has resulted which employs a hundred men during the salmon
season, and is of great consequence to the county. The cannery is first-class in its ap-
pointments, being modeled after the Columbia river canning establishments, where the
manager, D. H. Getchell, has had a large experience. The apparatus required was
shipped from Portland, Oregon, on a steamer, which on her return voyage carried from
the Coquille a cargo of lumber. This voyage is the only one ever made between the
Columbia and Coquille by a steamer. A short distance above Parkersburg is Jens
Jensen's fishery, where salmon are caught, salted and barreled for export. One or two
other stations of this sort exist on the Coipiille. 120,000 salmon are reckoned to have
been caught in the river in 1883.

The firm of Grnbe, Pohl and Rink built a saw mill upon the north side of the
river, a mile above Parkersburg, in 18G7, which was the first mill of importance erected
on tlie Coquille. Captain Tichenor purchased and shipi^ed in 1801) the first cargo of
lumber ever taken over the Coquille bar. Mr. .Grube now owns the mill, having pur-
chased his partners' interests. Several vessels, mostly schooners, have been built at
the mill. The mill firm had the misfortune to lose the Cordelia, a steamer commanded
by Captain Clemens, a resident of Coquille, which vessel was lost with several persons
in January, 1878. The total production of the Grube mill from the beginning until
the present time is supposed to have been ten million feet of lumber.

The present village of Randolph stands at the foot of a rather steep bluff a few
hundred yards north of the Coquille and two or three miles from the mouth of that
stream. The little river steamers come to the wharves of this small city, making their
way up a small but deep slough which furnishes sufficient water for that species of
navigation. Randolph has a jwst office, a store or two, a brewery of very fair beer,
and a small number of cosy residences, and contains perhaps 100 inhabitants, whose
chief occupation is lumbering and salmon catching. Near town is a lumber chute
leading from the brow of the bluff spoken of and ending at the slough, where the logs,
launched from the steep height, come down like a flash of light, and plunge into the
waters. The town's name is derived from a preceding town of Randolph, a t-elebrated
mining camp, of which we will speak later.

Bandon is a small village at the mouth of the river, built upon the bluff to tlie
southward of the entrance. It has a very good location for commerce purposes and will
])r()l)ably keep at least even growth with the Coquille valley, whose principal port of
entry it may be. The place was founded and named by Cieorge Bennett, who settled
it ill 1873, bringing from Bandon, in Ireland, his two sons, J. W. and G. A. Bennett,
now editors and proprietors of the Coo^ Bm/ News, of Marshfield ; and six others, with
the intention of forming a colony. When work began upon the jetty at the Coquille
bar; Bandon took a forward step in growth, and a portion of the money expended
there went directly to build up the place. At present there are three hotels, two stores^
a Roman Catholic chapel, wharves, a ferry, and other imj)rovements. Bandon is quite
a health resort ; and in truth it would be difficult to find a locality better adapted to the
restoration or preservation of exuberant health. Tlie climate, as shown in the meteor-
ological tables accompanying this work, is favorable, inasnuich as the annual variation of
temperature is a minimum. The sea-breezes renovate tlie atmosphere and l)raeeupthe
system; the vicinitv aboumls with beautiful and grand scenery and numerous objet-ts <»f

400 SOUTHERN OREGON.

interest; there is a chalybeate spring near by; and finally the neighboring- woods abound
with game, as does the sea with fish.

Like all the rivers of the northwest coast the Coquille has a bar at its mouth,
which has been the means of almost entirely preventing vessels from entering. Of
late the United States government has undertaken works that, although as yet incom-
plete, have materially improved the entrance. Formerly the Coquille ran out to sea
through a channel comjmratively free from rocks, but giving insuificient depth of water;
at a later period the main channel became choked up and diverted to a rocky and
tortuous course by which for several years vessels were effectually kept out. A few
years since a survey of the bar was made by Major Bolton, of the U. S. engineers, who
recommended that $200,000 be expended in constructing jetties upon the Eads system,
whereby the current could be confined to a small portion of the embouchure and its
wearing power be so increased as to deepen the channel materially. About $20,000
was expended in accordance with this suggestion, with the most gratifying results. A
jetty was built out for several hundred feet, by driving piles and filling interspaces
with rocks, and the current has returned to its old channel which has been deepened
several feet. At present there is a suiEciency of water to allow small coasting vessels
to pass, and no doubt exists that with the expenditure of more money and the proper
lengthening of the jetty, the largest deep water ships might enter. Formerly
vessels were often detained for weeks, either within the bar or without, but at present
detention is rare. Freights and insurance are lower, the saw mills, which furnish the
most of the freight have increased their output, and beneficial effect of the government
work are apparent in a variety of ways.

CHAPTER LXI.

coos BAY AND ITS VICINITY.

Description— Character of the Land— Geographical Explorations— Discovery of the Bay— The Coos Bay Com-
pany-The Randolph Mines — The Coal Mines.

The region of Coos Bay lies north of that part described, and is separated from it
by a water-shed of low hills running parallel to the Coquille river. The tract sur-
rounds Coos bay, which receives a number of rivers, creeks and sloughs which drain
the land of the vicinity. The bay is an extremely irregular body of water, perhaps
fifty square miles in area, and possessing a number of arms which penetrate the land
for a considerable distance and add materially to its area. It is of great value by
reason of its navigability, affording easy means of communication between the various
points. There is a sufficient depth of water, particularly in the western portions, to float
the largest ships ; and even the narrow sloughs emptying into it are susceptible of
being improved so as to float vessels of considerable size.

coos COUNTY. 491

The character of the land is similar in most respects to that of the Coquille. A
very large amount of marsh laud is found on the various tributary sloughs and creeks,
most of it being covered with a heavy plant growth. A great deal of this land is
susceptible of being reclaimed, when it will be enormously productive. Myrtle bot-
toms of the ordinary description are common upon the Coos, Millicamas and other
.streams emptying into the bay, and a great many settlements have been made by enter-
pj-ising farmers. There is no lack of fertile soil on which to settle, but the great diffi-
culty of clearing these lands is almost insurmountable. If, in addition, they have to
be dyked to keep the water from overflowing them, tho cost is much increased, and
unlimited labor and expense are incurred. In spite of this the farming community
are invariably in a fairly prosperous condition, obtaining satisfactory prices for their
products, and realizing high profits.

The world had its first knowledge of the coist of Coos county from the explora-
tions of D'Aguilar and Cook, the former having discovered upon the coast a headland,
which he named Blanco, because of its color, but whether the headland was Cape
Orford or Cape Arago it is imposssible now to tell. He also discovered what he took
to be the mouth of a large river in the latitude of Coos bay, which was doubtless the
bay itself. This he did not enter, but was driven away by stress of weather. Later
on came Captain Cook, who named the point of land between the Coquille and the bay
Cape Gregory, from the fact of the discovery taking place on the day devoted to that
saint. Cape Gregory is now best known by the name of Cape Arago. Captain Cook
made no attempt to rediscover D'Aguilar's river, and, in fact, doubted that any such
discovery had been made. After him came Vancouver, who likewise passed along the
coast without remarking anything except the peculiar features of Cape Gregory. After
them came many other navigators, but Coos bay seems never to have achieved men-
tion— though its existence probably was known to the Hudson Bay employees at Fort
Umpqua — until 1852, when a report concerning it was circulated in the Umpqua val-
ley, then receiving its first settlers, and King, a venturesome individual, got u[) a com-
pany to search for it. The explorers set out from Winchester and went by way of
Scottsburg to the sea coast and then southward to the bay. They were P. B. ]\Iarple,
Fitzhugh, Flournoy, Peyton, King and two other whites, with two Indians as guides
or interpreters. Their expedition resulted in the discovery of the bay, but how long
they remainetl or how minutely and extensively they examined the region cannot be
told. Probably this happened pretty late in the year, for in the following ^lay of
1853 we hear of Marple lecturing publicly in Jacksonville on the beauties and advan-
tages of the Coos Bay country, as it was already called, and endeavoring to organize a
joint stock company to go there under his lead and take possession of the country.
Ill this he was successful ; and an association of men calling themselves the Coos Bay
Company, set out, with the lecturer as guide, for the promised land. It was at a time
when, as before mentioned, a perfect fever raged for discovering and settling seajiorts
available for traffic with the miues, and no difficulty was found in securing recruits
and selling stock. JNIarple was to have ten thousand dollars for his services as pilot
and for his discovery, providing that it was as represented. The object of the com-
pany was to thoroughly explore the region, sound its waters, and locate donation claims
and tovvnsites upon available spots, and so gain control of the bay and its tributaries.

492 SOUTHERN OEEGON.

These objects they carried out as well as their means would allow. These pioneers of
Coos county were W. H. Harris, S. K. Belknap, Solomon Bowermaster, A. P. DeCuis,
Dr. J. H. Foster, A. P. Gaskell, C. W. Johnson, M. M. Learn, F. G. Lockhart, P.
B. Marple, J. A. J. McVay, Joseph McVay, Dr. A. B. Overbeck, Charles Pierce,
David Rohrer, H. A. Stark, S. K. Temple, A. H. Thrift and George L. Weeks. They
made their way to the head waters of the middle fork of the Coquille, in Camas valley,
and followed that stream to its confluence with the main river and then to the ocean
and then up the beach to South slough and the site of Empire City. Captain Harris
immediately filed a claim to the latter locality as his donation, the first taken in Coos
county. Lockhai-t took a claim at North Bend, and the other members of the com-
pany, with outside parties who arrived subsequent to the above named, took the most
available claims very quickly. Curtis Noble took the Coos City claim and J. C. Tol-
man the Marshfield site.

The first vessel known to have entered the bay was a schooner bound for the
mouth of the Umpqua, that through mistake, found herself in the bay instead. This
was in 1852. The first vessel to bring a cargo to the bay was the Cynosure, a sailing
craft, commanded by Captain Whippy, which arrived in 1853, soon after the opening
of the Randolph mines. The mention of these famous diggings calls up a subject of
the greatest interest and importance. Before the Coos Bay Company and its members
had got fairly settled on their new claims, some half-breed Indians prospecting on the
ocean beach just north of the mouth of the Coquille, found abundance of gold in the
black sand at the mouth of Whisky run, a very small stream which makes its way
into the ocean. They worked these placers somewhat, finding gold in very fine jmr-
ticles, unevenly distributed through the mass of sand, sometimes there being hardly
a color ; but at others it was not uncommon to get eight or ten dollars from a pan-
ful of dirt. These men sold their claim in the summer of 1853, the purchasers
being the Macnamara brothers, who worked it with excellent results. The total
yield of this claim is said to have been f 100,000. Joe Crowley, one of the origi-
nal discoverers of the Randolph mines, made his fortune in them and departed,
taking away a mule load of gold. His luck was diversified, however, for he died a
pauper. The rumor of these rich mines having spread, innumerable miners flocked to
them and began prospecting. The ocean beach was staked off for miles in every
direction, and not less than a thousand men were gathered there. Besides these, an
indefinite number were prospecting along the shore from Trinidad, in California, to the
Umpqua river. A town sprang uj) at Whisky Run, and speedily became a jalace of
importance, containing saloons, restaurants, stores, lodging houses, tents and cabins in
large numbers. The place was named by Dr. Foster and Captain Harris, for the
famed Virginian, Randolph of Roanoke. The Coos Bay Company built a trail from
Empire City — their chief settlement and capital, as it were — to the mines. The min-
ing fever was of great use to Coos bay and its vicinity, since it brought to the attention
of the world at large the advantageous situation of the new port. After a few months
of active work the mines lost prestige and speedily sank out of sight, to be replaced
in the public mind by another sort of mining, and one that was destined to be of far
greater consequence than mere gold seeking.

5 mii«^>»ii' ^ y '

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coos COUNTY. 493

The first coal discovered was on tlie Lockhart claim, at North Bend. The seam
was eighteen inches in thickness, and was deemed so valuable that the owner refused
$40,000 for it. . Veins were soon after found near Empire City and at other places,
but none of them were immediately worked. The first coal shipped to San Francisco
was mined on the Boatman claim, near Coal Bank slough, and brought a price of forty
dollars per ton. A previous cargo had been lost with the vessel carrying it, on the
Coos Bay bar. In 1855 the mines of Newport and Eastport were opened and during
the next year shipments began to take place. These were rival properties, the New-
port being owned by Lanagan and Eogers, while the Eastport belonged to Northrup
and Symonds, who were succeeded by the Pershbakers, who sold to J. L. Pool, the
present proprietor. A. J. Davis, who distinguished himself as one of the town pro-
prietors of Marshfield, acting as agent for a San Francisco firm, opened a mine near
the mouth of Isthmus slough, in 1856, expending money lavishly to construct a rail-
road, storehouses, wharf, etc., before the size of the vein and the quality of the coal
were found out. The mine proved unsatisfactory in these respects and was abandoned
after an expenditure of full seventy-five .thousand dollars. The Hardy mine, opposite
North Bend, was opened in later years at even a greater expense, and ^^roved equally
valueless. The Henryville mine, opened in 1874, is a still more striking example of
the same kind. The Southport mine on the contrary, has proved valuable and lasting,
and is still producing coal.

Trade centered originally at Empire C!ity and that place had a speedy, but not
long lived growth. The town is about six miles from the bar at the mouth of Coos
bay. It now, after thirty years of existence and innumerable ^perturbations, contains
about one hundred buildings, mostly situated upon a beach about twenty-five feet in
elevation, but the business portion is built upon the flats, at less height. Its buildings
are generally well constructed, and embrace three hotels, four saloons, a drug store,
variety store, and two stores of miscellaneous articles, a dilapidated Methodist church,
and a school house where thirty pupils receive instruction. In front of the town there
are mud flats of considerable extent, which prevent vessels from apjiroaching near the
shore, and across these flats some wharves are extended. Camraann's is the longest,
and has a railroad track for transjjorting goods between vessels and the town. Com-
merce, mining and lumbering built up Empire City, and the gradual decay of the one
and the busy rivalry of Marshfield in the others have been the partial ruin of the place.
Luse's large steam saw mill, wliich cut 20,000 feet of lumber daily, has ceased its work
forever. The neighboring coal seams, found on the INIarple and Foley claims, have
been abandoned long since. Empire City, notwithstanding her decay, still remains the
county seat ; and this feet has the most to do with sustaining her existence. Coos Bay
being a port of entry, the United States custom house is located at Empire City. In
1857 the Oregon legislature petitioned congress to remove the ])ort of entry from Port
Orford to " Kowes Bay," or else to form a new collection district of the latter, whicli
in the fullness of time was done. Empire City has apparently taken a new lease of
life in consequence of the operations and investments of the Southern Oregon Improve-
ment company, who have i)urehased a great deal of property in and about the place,
including 17<) town lots.

494 SOUTHERN OREGON.

The iiroraising and imijortant town of Marshfieid, the einpormm of the Coos Bay
country, and the true capital of the region, stands upon the southern shore of the bay,
nearly east from Empire City, to which there is access by land and by water, the latter
course being twice as long as the former, since the small passenger steamers are com-
pelled to follow a course curved like a horse-shoe, whereof Marshfieid and Empire
occupy the two ends. As before remarked, J. C. Tolman was the first claimant of the
town site. He built a log house upon the land, which building is now occupied by M.
Malarkey. In order to build up a town Mr. Tolman induced Crosby and Williams to
put up a store, which they did, but failed to continue the venture. In 1854 A. J.
Davis became possessed of a half interest in the site, and hired to represent his interest,'
Wilkins Warwick, who was to hold the claim. Warwick entered the land in his
own name, but subsequent to an act of congress prohibiting town sites from being held
as donation claims, which vitiated the title to the laud and was eventually a source of
detriment to the 2:)lace. H. H. Luse, purchasing Warwick's title, got it confirmed at
great expense and trouble, and for many years kept the land (160 acres) in litigation.
Finally, at his death the Southern Oregon Improvement Company purchased his title
and cut the Gordian knot by having the land appraised, and sold it to the uneasy
occupants at one-fourth discount. The name had been given the place as early as
1854, either as descriptive of the surrounding country, which is somewhat moist, or in
memory of Marshfieid, Massachusetts, the home of Daniel Webster. Only a small
trading post and a humble inn existed here until 1867, ten years after the time was
surveyed into lots. The store was kept by various persons at different times, the best
known of them being Charles Pershbaker. The little tavern was kept by " Cap."
Hamilton. In 1867 the Marshfieid saw mill was built by John Pershbaker, and ship-
building was actively begun. The vessels launched here were the tug Escort, the
schooners Staff ho u/id, Louisa Morrison, Ivan hoe and Annie Stauffer, and the barkentiue
Amelia. The firm of Dean, Wilcox and Merchant came into possession of the mill
property about 1873 and continued the building of vessels, of which about a dozen
have since been launched at the Marshfieid yard.

The town has pursued a steady growth in subsequent years, bidding successfully
for the trade of the bay, and has attained a population of about 800. There are three
large stores of general merchandise, two drug stores, three blacksmith shops, two furni-
ture stoies, two variety stores, a hardware store, two butcher shops, two millinery stores,
three boot and shoe stores, two jewelers, three doctors, a dentist and five lawyers. There
are three hotels, a restaurant, two livery stables; also several secret societies — of whom
the Masons have a hall of their own, two photographic establishments, eight saloons,
a brewery, the Marshfieid Academy (the most westerly educational concern of a high
order in America), a church now being built, and two newspajier offices complete the
list. The Coos Bay News, was established by John M. Siglin, being the first news-
paper issued in the county. It is now conducted by the Bennetts, J. W. and G. A.
The Coast Hail is also a weekly issue, but of comparatively recent foundation.

The firm of E. B. Dean and company own and conduct a varied business, embrac-
ing merchandise, the manufacture of lumber and ship building. The steam saw mill
has a capacity of cutting 50,000 feet of lumber, daily, this being the largest in the

coos COUNTY. 495

country. At the yard have been built a hirge number of vessels, those launched Ijefore
the year 1879 aggregating 5,500 tons.

Marshfield wears quite an imposing appearance as seen from the water front. The
large mill, the bay steamboats lying at the long wharf, the sailing vessels loading
there, the active business portion of the town, and the pleasant residences in the back-
ground shaded by lofty evergreens, make up a picture which is at once unique and en-
livening. There are quite a number of settlements on or near the bay, of importance
secondary to the two mentioned. At North Bend the large saw mill and ship yard of
A. M. Sim23Son and brother are located. The senior partner of the firm is the pio-
"neer manufacturer of lumber upon Coos bay, and laid here the foundation of his wealth
and influence. Up to the year 1878 twenty-two vessels have been built at the yard
with a total tonnage of nearly 10,000. One of these, the ship Western Shore, was the
largest craft ever launched on the Pacific ocean. This yard is the most important in
the state.

Coaledo is located at the head of boat navigation on Beaver slough, five meander-
ing miles from the Coquille. The town, as its name may imply, took its rise from
coal mines, for William Utter opened the mine which bears his name, situated a mile
away, and directly the village of Coaledo became a reality. A great deal of money
was expended in the search for coal, and a railway was built for its transportation ; but
the prospector failed and Coaledo lost the greater part of its population. It is now
nine years since work ceased, and time and fire have made many ravages in the village.
It now has a hotel, a saloon and a few residences. A mile and a half away are the
ruins of a saw mill built in 1874 by Mr. Dunham. Some logging is done on the isth-
mus, as the locality is called, and the lumber is transported to the bay, being taken
on the isthmus railway, previously mentioned, to deep water on Isthmus slough, a
branch of Coos bay. The northern terminus of this miniature railroad is Utter City,
named for the indefatigable coal prospector. Across Isthmus slough from the last
mentioned locality are the works of a very extensively but unsuccessfully prospected
coal mine, which, like Utter's, broke the fortune of its owner. Further down the
slough is Coos City, a place of only prospective importance, and the terminus of the
stage road leading to Roseburg. The Aaronville saw mill is located a short distance
below Coos City and not far from Marshfield.

Sumner stands at the head of Catching slough, a quiet and diminutive hamlet of
no distinguishing peculiarities. North of the slough is the inhabited portion of Coos
river valley, a wealthy and important section. The mouth of that river is three miles
northeast of Marshfield. The stream is noted for its lumbering, which has been car-
ried on for years, until the low lands have been denuded of their trees, and falling into
the hands of industrious farmers have been cleared of stumps -and brush and converted
into fields of the smoothest descri2:)tion. A great deal of the rich bottom land has been
dyked to prevent overflow, and its value is much enhanced by the treatment. \ part
of the valley is highly cultivated, and many valuable fjirm products are raised, includ-
ing vegetables and fruit, for which an abundant market is found at the various .settle-
ments around the bay.

CHAPTER LXIL

RESOURCES AND BUSINESS.

Derivation of the Name— Incorporation— Coos Bay Bar —Resources— Forests— Statistics— Outlets for Business—
The Southern Oregon Improvement Company.

The word Coos is judged to be an Indian name, of doubtful signification, which
being heard by travelers in the wilds to the west of the Coast Range, was conferred
either uj^on Coos river or bay, and afterward, on the formation of the county, was
given to it. The first printed matter which relates to the word, gives it as Cowes'
river ; and the name Cowan's river was in use for the same stream. Some have thought
that the word was an eastern im23ortation, coming from Coos county, New Hampshire.
Until of late years, the spelling of the word was not fixed, and Coose was, perhaps,
its most common form. Coos is also regarded as the Indian imitation of coast, which
the natives may have attempted to speak. In this connection we may remark that
the derivation of the name Coquille, although much has been written and said con-
cerning it, admits of no doubt whatever : it is a French word meaning shell or husk —
a reasonable enough origin considering, first, that the French-speaking trappers
undoubtedly penetrated to the Coquille valley; and, second, that shell-fish of various
sorts exist in the ocean near the river's mouth. It may be worthy of remark that the
Indian name of the Coquille river was Nes-sa-til-eut .

The act incorporating Coos county became a law on the twenty-second of Decem-
ber, 1853. The boundaries of the new county comprised "all that part of Umpqua and
Jackson counties, with the following boundaries, to-wit : Beginning at a point on the
ocean eight miles south of the Umpqua river; thence southeast to the dividing ridge
between the waters of the Umpqua and Coos and Coquille rivers ; thence along the'
summit of the divide, to the southwest corner of Douglas county ; thence south to the
source of the south fork of the Coquille ; thence south to the forty-second parallel ;
thence west to the Pacific ocean ; thence north to the place of beginning." Rather
more than half of this area was erected into a separate county three years later, under
the name of Curry.

The bar at the mouth of Coos Bay, like that of the Coquille, has always been a
serious detriment to navigation, inasmuch as the depth of water is naturally only suffi-
cient to admit the smaller class of vessels, such as schooners, coasting steamers, and
the like, most of which draw less than ten feet. But the general governmentappropriated
large sums for permanent improvement of the bar, and by extending a jetty into the
channel near Rocky Point, the course of the current has been changed, with the most
beneficial effects. At present there is a minimum depth of eighteen feet, which is a
vast improvement over its former condition.

V

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coos COUNTY. 497

A large number of casualties, many of them very severe, have occurred at this
entrance. The Cohansa, Jackson, Cyclops, Noyo, New World, Fearless (tug), D. 31.
Hall, Ida Rogers, Gussie Telfair, Charles Devens, Energy, aad other vessels, have been
wrecked at various times, and several persons and much property lost. The wreck of
the schooner Quadrat as cost the lives of Mrs. McDonald and her child, and Mr.
Simpson, a member of the lumbering firm of A. M. Simpson & Company. When, in
1852, the brig General Lincoln, with a detachment of soldiers from Vancouver, had
nearly reached Cape Arago, on her way to Port Orford, she sprung a leak and was
beached a mile from the Coos Bay bar, and the troops completed the remainder of their
journey on foot. In the early history of the bay there is a recollection of a boat's
crew of youug men being drowned on the bar while endeavoring to j)iiot an incoming
vessel, said to have been the Cynosure. Dewey, Brooks, Starr, Winters and two others,
were the unfortunates. With such a series of fatal accidents, many of which have not
been mentioned, it is no wonder that Coos Bay bar is, or rather has been regarded as
dangerous. The late improvements have materially decreased the danger at this date,
and there is every prospect that the harbor, otherwise an excellent one, will become
eminently safe of entrance and exit.

The Coos Bay region and Coos county in general have been justly regarded as
possessing unlimited wealth and resources. It is questionable if nature ever concen-
trated upon so small a section so many and such various sources of material prosperity.
The county, as we have seen, is circumscribed and hemmed in by the Coast Range,
which nearly cuts off communication from the east. The area of farming land forms
but a small proportion of the total surface, and even this small area is encumbered
with woods of the densest description, and therefore the lands are very difficult to clear.
But these objections are of small consequence when weighed against the corresponding
advantages. The fertility of the soil, the abundance of its productions, the extent and
value of the forests, the aids to communication presented by the Coquille river and
Coos Bay, the apparently exhaustless beds of coal, and innumerable other resources
impossible here to enumerate, outweigh the present difficulties of travel, the super-
abundant moisture of the climate and the isolation of the county, by a thousand fold.
To dilate upon the manifold resources would require a greater space than we
have at command ; and even to barely mention the various products and manufactures
which either form articles of trade or soon will do so, would be a work of considerable
magnitude. The two industries, the salmon canning trade and the manufacture of
lumber, only have reached a condition where it is possible to judge adequately of their
future. There seems no sufficient reason why the former should not always continue,
with proper management, to be at least as productive as it now is, and with reference
to the lumber business, mathematical demonstrations are comi)etent to show how long
the lumber supply will continue, and at what date it may be exhausted and that now
most important industry brought to an end. Minor occupations, such as procuring
match-wood, staves, ship knees, masts and spars, and other articles of the sort, will
necessarily be of shorter continuance. At the rate at which the myrtle bottoms are
being denuded by their trees in order to clear the land, that timber will, in the not dis-
tantfuture, become a rarity. The forests around the bay, and throughout the county
in general, are composed mainly of fir, cedar, myrtle, hemlock, chittim and many less

498 SOUTHEEN OKEGON.'

imjjortaut species. The fir predominates largely, and about Coos Bay is found perhaps
the finest timber of the sort that exists in the world. The trees of a single acre will
often yield 200,000 feet of excellent lumber, of the sort called in California Oregon
pine, but what is really fir. There is a considerable quantity of cedar in all parts of
the county, but around the bay it is mostly of a different species from the Port Orford
variety, which exists there but sparsely, though abundant enough in the southern por-
tion of the county. Thousands of acres of myrtle and maple of excellent quality
stand upon the low lands about the bay and form a small article of present export,
being shipped in the log. The total area of timber on the bay and the streams tribu-
tary to it is judged to be 100,000 acres, from which for nearly thirty years vast sup-
plies have been drawn, but still greater ones remain.

In 1878 the business men of Coos Bay published some very valuable statistics
relating to the productions of that vicinity, whose re-publication will serve to throw
light on the resources of the section and the comparative extent to which they liave
been utilized. From them it is ascertained that the total amount of coal and lumber
exported during the years 1871-1878, and including but two-thirds of the latter year,
was $2,924,000 ; the entire exports amounting to $167,000. Ship building was repre-
sented for the same time by the construction of forty vessels, aggregating 16,350 tons
burden. Of these, twenty were built at North Bend, total tonnage 9,955; thirteen at
Marshfield, tonnage 5,550 ; six at Empire City, tonnage 795 ; and one at Coos river,
tonnage fifty. The arrivals and departures of vessels aggregated 1,388, or at the aver-
age rate of 180 per year, and their total carrying capacity was 565,550 tons. The
report referred to states further : " The quantity of coal that is conveniently accessible
from the navigable waters of Coos Bay, is almost incalculable. Within an area of ten
miles of the bay there is not less than 75,000 acres of good coal land, which will pro-
duce, from the strata generally worked,- 450 million tons of coal. This is an estimate
of the production of only one seam, while in some parts of this coal field there are
known to be as many as six workable veins. The area of lands known to contain coal,
but not fully prospected, lying in the vicinity of the bay, may be estimated at 250,000
acres, and at no great distance east, a vein of eleven feet in thickness is reported, said
by persons who have tested it to be of a sujjerior quality, suitable for the manufacture
of gas, and for use in the foundry or forge. With such improvement of our harbor as
is now contemplated, the coal of Coos Bay can successfully compete with any other
part of the world. There are five coal mines already opened on the bay, of a total
capacity of about 1,800 tons daily. Some of these mines are now suspended on account
of the fact that the small class of vessels that carry from Coos Bay cannot compete in
the price of freights with the large vessels in which the Puget Sound and foreign coal
is carried, but are ready to resume work whenever the market improves, or when the
harbor is so improved as to accommodate a larger class of vessels. There are other
articles of export besides coal and lumber which are exported regularly from Coos Bay,
aggregating many thousand dollars in value. Among these are included lath, broom-
handles, pickets, ship-knees, match-wood, staves, hides and fruit. In the production
of such fruits as do not require very warm weather to mature them, our climate is
unequaled. Though our surplus fruit crop has, in former years, been mainly shipped
while fresh, the introduction of evaporators is doing away with the shipment of fresh

coos COUNTY. 499

fruits, and establishing a lucrative business in the export of the dried product of these
factories."

At present the Bay is the scene of renewed activity. The ordinary traffic upon
this body of water is of no small consequence, and five steamers, the 3Iyrtle, Come/,
Wasp^ Bertha and Lulu, make regular and frequent trips between the various acces-
sible inhabited localities, transporting passengers and merchandize, and towing rafts of
logs to the various mills. The outlet for the commerce of the bay is seaward to San
Francisco. Communication with the interior takes place by the Roseburg stage route,
a considerable amount of travel passing that way. By means of the route along the
ocean beach north of the bay, travelers find their way to Gardiner, at the mouth of the
Umpqua, and thence by steamer to Scottsburg, and finally by stage to Drain, on the
Oregon and California railroad. From Bandon, on the Coquille, a wagon road pro-
ceeds southward along the beach into Curry county. By these means communication
is kept up with the outside world, but it is almost unnecessary to say that freight,
except to .a very limited extent, does not take these routes. All articles of merchandize
except of home manufacture, are brought from San Francisco, which has a monopoly
of the trade of the whole region lying west of the Coast Range.

The most important innovation which has taken place in Coos county since its
settlement, by Marple, Harris and their associates, is the inauguration of the Southern
Improvement Company's works. In 1883 and 1884 this association of capitalists,
represented by Captain Besse, of New Bedford, Massachusetts, as president, purchased
a large amount of property in Coos county, consisting of 6,680 acres of land lying
near the bay, the Warwick-Luse claim to the site of Marshfield, and certain property in
Empire City, including a large amount of land fronting on the bay, and the saw mill.
The grant of land made to the incorporators of the Coos Bay Wagon Road, so-called,
was also purchased. These investments have been made with the ultimate intention of
building a railroad from the bay to Roseburg. The enterprise meets with the emphatic
approval of the people of Coos, Douglas and Curry counties, who will mainly be ben-
efited by it, and work is expected to begin soon. The road is to connect the terminus
on the bay with Coquille City, the middle fork of the Coquille, Camag valley,
Looking-glass valley and Roseburg. Details of its construction, length, probable cost,
etc., are not yet known.

^i!^^^-;^

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APPENDIX

BIOGRAPHICAL BREVITIES,

JACKSON COUNTY.

Dr. G. H. Aike.n : was born in the town of Ipswick, X.
H., January 6, 1845 ; is one of the leading physicians of
Jacksonville ; here he arrived in 1871 ; in 1879 he married
Miss Ida Martin of this county. Their only child, True,
was born March 15, 1882.

Joseph Alnutt: was born in Clay county, Missouri, 1833 ;
he moved to California in 1S53 and to Jackson county in
1874; Mr. Alnutl follows the occupation of salesman and is
thus engaged in Ashland, where he resides with his family ;
in October, 1882, he was married to Nattie Mitchell. Chil-
dren, Wm. C. and Alva J.

E. K. Anderso.n: lives near Phcenix; is afarmer and miner;
was born in Monroe county, Indiana; came to California in
1849; and to this state and county in 1852; was married
January 9, 1S56, to Elizabeth N. Myer. Children, Laura V.,
Mary H., George N., Lena, Anna Bell, Dora E. and Sarah E.

Frederick Barneberg: lives three miles north of Phoe-
nix ; is a farmer ; was born at Hesse Casael, Germany, 1836 ;
came to America in 1838 and to this county in 1854 ; he was
married January i, i860, to Electa Norton, a native of
Iowa. Children, Laura A., Sanuitl P., Daniel H., Ida J.,
Mary and John.

Herman V. Batcheller : resides in Ashland and is a
saddler by trade ; he was born in Madison county, N. V.,

1835, ^nd was married in 1864 to Mary A. Fuller, who died
soon after their marriage ; Mr. Batcheller is a pioneer of 1854.

Geo. H. Bavlev : is a native of London; came to Amer-
icA in 1S41 at the age of nine years; he resides six miles east
iif Ashland and is engaged in farming and stock growing; Mr.
liaylty is a pioneer of 1854; came to county in 1871; he was
niarrie<l in 1S62 to Julian Johnston. .Children, Hattie and
Henry.

Joshua Beaumoni-; is a resident of Ashland and a cloth
finisher by trade; he is a native of Yorkshire, England; in
1855 he went to California and came to this state in 1857.

Merritt Bkllincer: came to Oregon in 1830; he is a
native of Pennsylvania; born February, 1833; is one of the
earliest pioneers of this county, having first arrived in Ore-
gon in 1850 and in this county in 1852, finally settling where
he now lives, two miles east of Jacksonville; in 1861 married
Caroline Ritler. Children, Lucinda, Rachel R., Emma and
Eva, twins, John and Francis.

WELBORiN Beeson Esrj.: whose residence is on Wagner
creek near Talent, was born in Lasalle county, 111., July 23,

1836, is only son of John and AnnWelborn Bteson of Linceln-
shire, England. At the age of 17 Welborn came to this state
and county in rSS?. In 1S66 he was married to Mary C.
Brophy. Children, Ira E., Welborn J., Jessie E., John D.,
Fannie E. and Annie M. John Beeson, father of our subject
is also a native of Lincolnshire, England. Was a man of some
literary ability and somewhat radical in his view.,.

Da.n. L. Benja.min: lives at Grant's Pass; is dealer in
cigars and tobacco; is also a barber; was born in Stevens
county, Illinois, 1854; came to state 1871 and to county
1884; married Joana Brown .September 26, 1875.

James G. Birdsey: is one among the first births of Jack-
son county, being born April 25, 1854; is a blacksmith by
trade and carries on an extensive business in Jacksonville,
where he resides; November 15, 1SS2, married .Miss Katie
Kuoh. Child, Geo. R., born October 23, 1SS3.

Wallace G. Bishoi': resides two miles north of Phoenix;
is a farmer; was born at Antwerp, N. V., July 26, 1830;
moved to Oregon in 1854; in September, 1859 was married
to Miss Nancy Scott, a native of Jefferson county, Iowa.
Children, Leonora, Oman N., Ada J., Ida May, Alexander
and Etta.

George Black: lives on Poor Man's creek; is a native of
county Down, Ireland; came to Oregon in 1851 and to Jack-
son county in 1852; is one of the pioneer miners of this coun-
try, which calling he still pursues.

R. L. Blackwood: was born in Chester county, Pennsyl-
vania, in 1854; resides nine miles east of Ashland, where he
cultivates his farm and raises stock; in 1877 he came to Cali-
fornia and in 1879 moved to this county; was married August

13, 1881, to Lillie D. Caldwell. Child, Jesse M., born Sep-
tember 17, 1882.

Henry Bi.echer: is a pioneer of Southern Oregon, hay-
ing opened one of the finest butcher shops in Jacksonville in
1852; is a native of Siegen, West Phalen, Prussia, and agen-
tleman now nearly retired from active life, living on his farnr
on Poor Man's creek.

D. P. Brittain: resides on Wagner creek; post-office ad-
dress. Talent; is a farmer by occupation; was born June 25,
1832, in Putnam county, Indiana; in October, 1853, he emi-
grated to Oregon, where he was married April 28, 1859, to
Miss M. L. Garrison. Children, Louisa E., Ora A. and Ida B.

J. J. Brown: was born in Douglas county in 1854; is now
a resident of Grant's Pass; is a farmer by occupation. Child,
Robert E., bora April 20, 1S75.

Henry R. Brown: one of the earliest pioneers of South-
ern Oregon; is a farmer and stock grower; was born in York-
shire, England, in 1829; came to this county in 1852, where
he was married in i860 to Martha Blamsley. Children, Jen-
nie C, Mary M., Emogene, H. Lee, Olive and George B;
Lee and Olive are now deceased. Mr. Brown has long been
a resident of Butte creek and was the founder of Browns-
borough.

Chas. W. BrobacK: has heretofore been farming and
stock raising; he is now one of the proprietors of Medford, a
new town soringing up on the O. & C. R. R., a few miles
north of Phoenix; is a Virginian by birth, being born July

14, 1S35; came to California in 1852 and to Oregon in 1S64;
was married December 25, 1859, to Francis A. Haigh. Chil-
dren, Fernando W., Waher, Charles. Clarence. Ettie and
Allie.

E. C. Brookj: lives in Jacksonville; !■= a jeweler and
dealer in watches, clocks, etc. ; was born in Hancock, Hills-
bourough county, N. H.; came to state and county in 1864;
was married in 1849 to .Miss Hannah Porter, since deceased:
was again married in 1S82 to Mrs. A. Hauck. Children,
Annie (deceased), Lizzie, Charles (deceased), Susie and Girtie.

Wm. H. Bri;nk: resides in Phoenix; is a clerk; was born
near Louisville, Ky., November 13, 1848; came to California
in 1849, and to Oregon in 1851; to this county in 1883.

James D. Buckley: lives on. \pplcgate creek; is a farmer;
came to state and county in 1S54; was married June 13,
1871, to Margaret Riely. Children, Rosa A., John D.,
James, Francis, Kale M. and David. Mr. Buckley is a native
of county Cork, Ireland.

I. W. BuRRLss: resides in Ashland: is a >a|.Mm keeper; was

APPENDIX.

born in Monroe county, Mo., March 30, 1839; came to Ore-
gon in 1879, in which year, October 29th, he was married to
Jliss F. Erb.

Ghen S. Butler: is a merchant in Ashland; was born
near Jacksonville, Oregon, January 19, 1854; was married
November 2, 1879, to Miss Alice Adeline Barron, daughter ol
H. F. Barron, Esq., of this county.

Wm. Bvr.EE: one of the largest land owners in Southern
Oregon: resides near Jacksonville; was born in Clark county,
Ky., 1S30: came to Oregon in 1853 and to this county in
1S54: was married in November, 1854, to Miss Elizabeth A.
Walker. Children, Kyland (deceased), James \V., Florence
(deceased), Liilie M. (deceased) Effie, Jefiferson, (deceased),
Frank E., Alexander M., (deceased), Minnie I., Robert L.,
Minerva M. (deceased).

RonERT J. Cameron: lives at Uniontown; is a farmer;
was born in Madison county, N. Y., 1831: came to state and
county in 1S52; was married April 7, 1863, to Esther Le Fever;
children, Franklin, Helena, Clara, Anna, Bernice and
Warren L.

Theodoric Cameron : an early pioneer of this county
arrived in 1S52, he has since been engaged in the mercantile
and mining business ;'is a native of Madison county, N. Y.,
and now P. M., at Uniontown, on Applegate creek, where he
keeps a general merchandise store.

John C.\rd\vei.L: died in Sam's Valley; was a farmer, born
in Trealds, Lancashire, Eng. ; came to state and county i860;
married Jan., 1S56 to Ellen Rouark: children, Annie Catherine
(deceased) Ellen, John A., Francis H. Martha (deceased) Jane
A., Martha, Edw'ard R., Lawrence R.. David S., Eva L.'

M.\jOR A. Carter: lives in Ashland; is a painter and paper
hanger; was born in Watertown, Wisconsin; came to state and
county, 1S71; married June 29, 1883, to Mary R. Givan; they
have one child, Leman Claude.

J. A. Carter: Hves in Jacksonville; is a painter; was born
in Watertown, Jefierson county, Wisconsin; came to state
and county in 1864; was married Nov. 27, 1877, to Martha
J. Helman; one child, Bradford.

G. W. Catching: lives in Grants Pass; is a carpenter; was
born in Douglas county. Or , 1855, came to this county 18S3;
married Oct., 23, 1879, to Lou Webber; one child, Grace,
born Jan. 11, 1881.

MiLO C.ATON: lives in Jacksonville; came to this state in
1S52, and to this county in 1853; was married November 17,
1S47, to Sybil A. Freeman, Children. Edwin B., Jennie O.,
Emma E., Robert M. and Mary BeU. Mr. Catton participated
in the Indian wars of 1S53-6, and the late civil war.

Dr. J. H. Chitwood: lives in Ashland ; is a physician and
surgeon; was born in Jefferson county, Ind. ; came to this state
1853 and to county 1871 ; married May 28, 184S, to Sarah J.
Gaskill ; children, Ella J., Olive Irene, Hampton T., Kat'ie
B., Charles G.

Wm. Chambers: lives at Central Point; is a farmer; was
born Scotland county. Mo., came to state and county 1852;
married Dec. 18, 1862 m Marv A. Wilson; children, John W.,
Ida M., Florence L., A.iv^n'iAvcr.i.vd), Mary L., Wm. H.,
Eveline R., Waity A., .iiid MinriK M.

Dr. J. A. Chastain: lives in I'hu-ni.x; is a physician; was
born in Meggs county. East Tenn., April, 1834; came to slate
in 1875: was married March i, 1S66. to Mary J. King; children,
Wm. I., Charles, George L., Cora, Price, Adah, Ann E.,
Etta, Claudius and Sarah J.

Daniel Chapman: lives in Ashland; is a farmer and stock
grower; was born in England; came to America in 1832; to
state and county in 1853; was married March 9, 1865, to
Sarah A. Neil; children, Alvin B., Sarah L., Minnie E.,
Daniel T., Cora A., Elsie V., Homer R., Virgil H., and Guy.

Geo. W. Cooksey: lives near Central Point; is a farmer
and stock grower; born in Clinton county, Ky. ; came to state
1S53 and to county 1858; married Sep., 21 i86g, to Mrs.
Martha M. Roe; children, Marcellus, John L., and Rosie,
George, only child of Mr. Cooksey, born May 21, 1872, died
Nov., 30, 1883.

Samuel Colver: lives at Phcenix; is a farmer and stock
grower; was born in Union county, Ohio, Sep., 10, 1815;
came tostate in 1850, to county in i85i;married Nov. 1845 to
Huldah Callender, born in Madi.son county, Ohio, 1823;
children, Luellyn and Isabell.

Louie Colver: was accidentally shot in Feb. 1884, at
Phcenix, his home; was a farmer; was born in Union county,
Ohio, March 28, 1847; came to state in 1850, to county in 1852;

married Dec, 31, 1875 to Miss Minnie Doliarhide; children,
Lita and Loyd.

M. Colwell: lives in Jacksonville; is proprietor of a
livery stable; was born in Edrigole, county Caven, Ireland;
came to state and county in 1S61; was married March 2, 1867
to Mary Corcoran, who died July 23, 18S3.

Robert A. CooK: lives on Foot's creek; is a miner and
farmer; P. O. address Draper: was born in Blunt county, Tenn.,

1833: came to stale is;:;. : ii,:\ invk married Feb., 20,

1S53 to Almira W. - ,ih E. (dec), John

A., Wm. A., Tho,, j . I ; , - ,;, E.

Nicholas Cooki': U-..-. ■ \\i|...\ >:iiii-s:is a merchant;
was born in county Limerick, Ireland; ca'me to state and county
in 1853; was married Sep., 16, 1876, to Ann McNamara, born
in Philadelphia.

J. A. Crain: lives near Medford; is a farmer and stock
grower, was born in Warren county, Ohio; came tostate 185 1,
to county in 1852, was married in 1861 to Susannah Wright:
one child, Elmira May.

David Cronemiller: lives in Jacksonville; is a blacksmith;
was born in Centre county, Penn.;came to state and county
in 1862: married Nov., 10, 1S61, to Annie Anderson; children,
James, Kate, Mary and Carrie.

Mrs. Ki;i r ■' \ 11, < it-^ip; lives on Poor Man's creek; is a
farmer; 1', ' . I , ksonviUe; was born in Monmouth

countv, N. I,; -late 1864,10 county 1867; married

Jan., 8, KSiJ:. in in, W m, E., Thomas A., John H., Elmina
"v., Firmnn S., |.i,i.,h F,, Clara A., Charles J,, Perry E.,
Olive v., Ethel I. and Harry L,

Thom.as Curkv: lives in Sam's Valley; is a farmer; was
born near Louisville, Ky. : came to stale 1853; to county 1854;
was married Oct., 1S63 to Mary E. Sutton; children, Walter
F. (dec), John W., Elfie L. (dec), and Thomas F. (dec.)

A. J. Daley: lives at Eagle Point; is a miller; was born in
Erie county, Ohio; came to Oregon 1S64, and to county 1871;
married Rachel Peacock July X, 1855. Children, Rosetla,
George W,, .Mary and Sarah (twins, and deceased), John H.
and Francis C.

W. C. Dai.ev: lives in Ashland; is an architect and builder;
was liorn in Eiie county, Ohio; came tostate 1864, and to
countv in 1S69; was married in 1S68, to Levinnia Hamilton;
Children, George W., Leora E. and Irvin.

John D.alev: formerly a resident of Ashland and Eagle
Point, now deceased, was born in Onondago county, N. V,;
came tostate 1S64, to county in 1S67: ivas married to Lavona
Carter in 1832; was a millwright and miller. Children, Ado-
niram J., Willard J., Willian, r ; ,; 1 r,l„i„ J.

Jeptha Davison: lives -. !' 1 nix : is a lumber-

man; was born in Perry cm. I, , i^',;5; came to State

and county in 1S59; marriL-l M;- In n ,n .Nleppy in 1864.

Andrew Davison: lives near Jack.M.nville; is a farmer;
born Fountain county, Indiana, 1S32: came to Oregon 1852;
married Mary A. Wright, December 25, 1855. Children,
Evaline, Amelia, Jlary L., William E., Annie A. and Fred-
erick E.

RohertH. Dean: lives near Jacksonville; is a farmer; was
born in Jackson county November 10, 1855; was married to
Miss Lydia Tuffs September II, 1878; Children, James N.
and Robert A.

Nathaniel C. Dean, died near Jacksonville, June 4,
1876; was a farmer; was born at Whitesborough, N. Y.,
came to State and county 1851; married Annie Huston, Nov.
15, 1852. Children, Rebecca (deceased), Robert H., Brad-
ford W., William (deceased), Abigail S., Ralph F., Alice M.
(now deceased), Clara and Annie H. (deceased).

Henry' P Deskins: lives near Fort Lane; is a farmer;
post-office address is \\'illow Springs: was born in Taswell
county, Virginia; came to state and county in 1858; was mar-
ried March, 1S57, to Mary Hill.

Fir\R:'i.R I'lMicK: lives near Grant's P.ass; is a farmer
;n, : . : 1 ,. 1; Lorn in Morgan county, Ohio, 1S36; came
!ii --in is^_\ ihl in county 1859; was married i860 to Sarah
1,1 n .i-H|. ( liil, hen, Edward D., Joseph W., Frank (deceased)
Hannah. Harry and Ina.

H. Clay Dollarhide: lives at Toll House foot of Sisk-
iyou Mts., which place he keeps; postoffice, Barron; was
born July 16, 1844; came to Cal., 1861, to this county in 1869;
married Julia A. Fendes in i87o, and May E. Shidlerin 1873.
Children, Julia A., Florence M., Minnie S., Naney D., Myrtle
E. and H. Clay Jr.

John W. Dollarhide: lives south of Ashland; is pro-

APPENDIX.

prietor of a saw mill; was born in Jasper county, Indiana,
November 13, 1846; came to stale and county in 1869; was
married March 24, 185?, to Sarah J. Campbell. Children,
Elizabeth (deceased), Wesley, Jesse, Hattie B., Lena S.,
Marry B., John, Claude and Ole B.

Jesse Doi.i,AKmi>K.; Hms in Ashland; is a farmer and
stock raiser; was born in Wayne county, Indiana, in 1815;
came to state and county in iS6g; was married 1836 to Miss
Nancy Murphy. Children, Amanda, Lavina, H. Clay, John
W., Mary N., Lucy, Jeniini.i, I'riscilla, Matilda and L. Dudly.

Patrick Donei;a\: lives in Jacksonville; is a blacksmith;
was born in County Louth, Ireland; came to state and county
in 1854; was married first to Margaret Lynch (deceased); sub-
sequently to Maiy Fieininsj. Children, Margaret, John (de-
ceased), Hugh, Elizabeth, James and Mary (twins), Patrick
(deceased), and Annie. Second wife's children, Kate (de-
ceased), Fannie, Patrick and Josephine.

M. H. Drake: lives in Ashland; is a merchant and stock
grower; was born in Steuben county, New York; came to
state and county in i860; was married in 1858, to Miss Mar-
tha Preater. Children, Ida (deceased), FredM., Belle, May,
and Ella.

Patrick Dunn: lives east of Ashland; is a farmer; address
is Ashland; was born in Wexford county, Ind., March 24,
1824: came to Oregon and this county in 1851; was married
in 1854 to Mary M. Hill. Children, Elizabeth J., Amy L.,
Ottilia, George W., and Mary E.

Eber Emery: lives at Eagle Point; is a merchant; was
born in Bedford county, Pennsylvania, July 20, 1819; was
married November 9, 1841, to Sophia Hoover; they came to
state and county in 1852.

H. S. Emery: lives in Ashland: is a mechanic and builder;
is a native of Ohio; came to this place in 1853; married Miss
A. Colvig, March i, 1873. Children, Nina B., Kattie P.,
Harry C. and Melvin S.

Mrs. E. R. Erb: lives near Ashland; is a farmer; was
born in Virginia; came to state in 1864, to county in 1867;
maiden name was Elizabeth K. Sively. Children, Melissa,
Elizabeth A., Margaret, Phoebe J., William W. and Frosine.

J. S. EwBANKS: lives in Ashland, is a blacksmith; was
born in Gallatin county, Illinois; came to California in i860;
to Oregon 1S74: was married to Miss Hannah Sloan, Decem-
ber 30," iX^i^ < liiMi.n, Hnrtense, Pauline, Rosamond, John
S., Janu, 1... 1;. .1,;, I,., E<igar C, Mnry E. and Albert A.

E'liWAKii |.. 1 \i;i.iV\: lives in Ashland; is a merchant; was
born ill Kock l,l,uiJ county, Illinois; came to state in 1852; to
county in iSoS; was married October, 1875, to Mary D. Colver.

Damei. F. Fisher: lives near Willow Springs; isafarmer;
w.is born in Virginia; came to state in 1849, and to county in
1S50; was married in 1864, to Mrs. Mary Peninger; Mrs. Pen-
inger had ten children, only two of whom, David and Wil-
liam, are living.

Heaton Fox: lives in Ashland; is a farmer and black-
smith; was born near Bradford, England, January 10, 1830;
came to America in 1S56, and to Oregon in i860; married lirst
time, 1S52, Sarah A. I'iokard (since deceased); they had four
cnildren, viz: William C, Nattic A., Eddy A., and .Min.ly A.
Mr. Fox was again married October i, 1S66, to Marietta
Kennedy. Children, Otto W., and Hiram N.

James D. Fountain: lives in Ashland; is a merchant;
was born in Boone county, Missouri; came to Oregon in 1852
and to this county in 1866; was married in 1878, to Grace
Russell. Children, Claude C. and Lylse.

Pleasant L. Founiain: lives in Ashland; was born in
Linn county, Oregon, in 1853; came to this county in 1872;
was married September 20, 18S2, to Rebecca Hockersm.th.
Their only child, Ray, was born October 18, 1883.

James J. Fryer: lives at Eagle Point; is a farmer and
stock grower; was born in Norwich, England, October 19,
1828; came to state and county in 1852; was married March
5, 1868, to Vira J. Lewis. Children, Arglee, Gladius and
Lelah.

Samuel Furry: lives near Phccnix; isafarmer; was born
in Schuylkill county, Pennsylvania, February 15, 1822: came
to stale and county in i860; was married in 1853, to Amelia
Barneberg. Children, Enoch F., Donna M., Leona G., Ed-
mona M. and Arthur S.

I. Cornelius Gage: lives near Central Point; is a farmer;
was born in Polk county, Oregon, in 1852; came to this
county in 1867; was married August, 1876, to Mary Cromer.
Children, Gilliam P. and Sarah G.

K. H. Gabbert: lives at Grant's Pass; is proprietor of
drug store; was born September 22, 1856; in Lane county,
Oregon; came to county in 1883; married Dec. 25, 1878, to
Kittie Wiley. Only child, Effie.

Robert Garrett: lives in Ashland; is a contractor; was
born in Benton county. Arkansas, March 1840: came to state
in 1853, to county in 187 1; was married October 20, 1877, to
Miss .Sarah E. Thornton. Children, Frank, Gracie and Laura.

O. O. Ganiard: lives in Sam's valley; is a merchant; was
born in Bristol New York, in 1832; came to state in 1852; to
county in 1872; was married July 5, 1858, to Lucinda Gani-
ard. Children, Lottie, Fred and Oscar; the two boys are
deceased.

Dr. E. p. Geary: lives in Medford; is a physician and
surgeon; was born in Brownsville, Oregon, April, 1859; came
to Jackson county in 1882.

James F. Gregory: lives on Sticky Flat; is a farmer;
post-office address is Central Point; was born in Carroll
county, Tennessee; came to state and county in 1872; was
married in 1S65, to Louisa Cochran. Children, J. Frank, El-
mira, Lillie, Jessie, Josephine, Tamer and infant.

W.M. J. Gregory': lives on Sticky Flat; is a farmer; was
born in jasper county, Tenn., 1836; came to state and county
in 1864; was married November 24, 1859, to Elizabeth March.
Children, Lucinda, Jennie (dec), Henry L., Lavma (dec),
Wm. W., Mary E. and James F.

Absolf.m F. Giddings: is a farmer; Hves in Ashland; was
born in Ashtabula county, Ohio, in 1833; came to state and
county in 1853; was married July 3, 1859, to Eliza E. Million.
Children, Henry and Millie M.

A. V. Gillette: lives in Ashland; is a carpenter; was
born in Harlford, Connecticut; came to state and county in
1857; was married March, 1855, to Martha L. Hill. Chil-
dren, Charles H., Edgar L, Almon C, Carrie, Effie E.,
George V. and Hugh H.

H. A. Grigsry: lives at Grant's Pass; is a liquor dealer;
was born in Jersey county, Illinois; came to state and county
in 1859; married Dec. 1855, to Ann M Pearce. Children, Flor-
ence A., Ora X., La Forest C,, Basil, Durthulia L., Kate,
(deceased), Caddie C. (deceased), Sarah A. (deceased), Owen
P. and OIlie M.

Wm. Harris: lives in Ashland; is a butcher, was born in
Hardin county, Ky., 1825; came to Cal. in 1852, to this state
and county in 1877; was married in 1849, to Eliza Chenoweth;
children, John C, Rhoda R., Sarelda, Lorina, Lizzie, Alice
C. and Charlie A.

Samuel Harkness: lives at Grant's Pass; is a farmer:
was born in Salein, New York, 1818; came to state 1852 and
to county in 1856; was married first time to Marietta Chap-
man (deceased), in 1842; second time to Mrs. Susan Davis, in
October, 1877. His children, Morris M., Homer D., Francis
M., Samuel E and Ida M.; hers, Frank, Lou, Gain (de-
ceased), Knmici, Mcllie, David G., Belle, Loren and Susie L.

Bfm \m! . II \i .hiND: lives in Rock Point; is a merchant;
bom I I V . Va.; came to state in 1852, and county

in IS;;: • i li 1868 to Hattie T. Beach.

A. I', llwiM >-!': lives in Ashland; is a lawyer: was born
in Walcoit, Wayne county, N. Y.; came to slate and county
in 1877; was married in 1852 to Elizabeth Schermerhorn (de-
ceased); was subsequently married to Mrs. Emma Howard.
First wife's children, Albert E., Sarah J. and John M.; .sec-
ond wife's, Grace, Frank, Kate, Nellie, Thomas and Rob-
ert.

John E. Harvey: lives in Central Point; is a hotel keeper:
was born in Lincolnshire, England; came to stale and county
in 1867; was married to Mrs. Aiilelta L. Buzan injure, 1872.
Children, Margery and Addie Buzan, and John A. and Wil-
liam H. Harvey.

Mrs. Martha W. Hargadine: daughter of James Kilgore,
resides in Ashland; is a farmer and stock grower, was born in
Stark county, Ohio; came to state in 1854, and was married in
1856 to R. B. Hargadine (deceased); children, Chas. H.,
Mariett.a, Elizabeth E., George R. and John F.

James W. Hayes: lives in Rock Point; is a blacksmith;
was born in Barren county, Ky., 1S42; came to slate in 1854,
to county 1868; married first Jime April 19, 1865, to Ellen
Wallace (deceased); one child, Ellen May. Married second
lime Dec. 22, 1870, to Sophrona J. Cook: children, Elizabeth
N., Lillie, James W., John .\L, Carrie and Hattie.

Newton Haskins: lives at Sterling creek post office
Jacksonville; is a miner; born in Knox county. 111.; came to

state in 1854, to comity in 1S60; married October 15, 1S77, to
Arzie Saltmarsli; children, Lavina, Edna, and Wallace.

Jeremiah Heckethorn: lives on Butte creek; post
office, Brownsborough: is a larjiier and stock grower; born in
Wayne county, Ohio; came to state and county in 1854;
married June 1851, to Annie B. Gressley; children, JIary C,
Annie C", Ida A., Dora, George, Martin, (Henry and Etta
twins) Emma, Elsie, Florence (deceased), Francelia and Wil-
liam.

G. T. Hershbarger: lives in Central Point; is a specula-
tor and farmer; was born at Fort Steilacoom, W. T. ; came to
Oregon in 1857, and to this county in 1877; was married
August 6, 1877, to Olive Kendig.

H. \". Helms: lives in Jacksonville; is a liquor dealer; was
born in Holstein, Germany, August 18, 1832; came to this
state .and county in 1S56; was married April 26, 1862, to Au-
gusta Engelbrecht. children, Lizzie, Edward H., Minnie,
(deceased), Amanda, Matilda, Bertha, Emma E., Annie and
Henry H.

A. D. Hellm.\N: lives in Ashland; is a farmer; came to
state and county in 1852; was born April 10, 1824, in Ashland
county, Ohio; w^as married April 23, 1849, to Martha J.
Kanagy. Children, Almeda S., John K., Marv E.. Martha
J., A. Lincoln, B. F. Butler, U. S. Grant and Otis O.

John S. Herren: lives near Ashland; is a stock grower;
WdS born in Hopkins county, Kentucky, November 15, 1S27,
came to state and county in 1S55; was married in 1S53, to
Nancy C. Walker. Children, William F., John W., Mary A.,
David C. Edward W., .A-nnelta M., Enima G. Carrie and
Freddy.

Charles B. H|(;h: lives in Ashland; is a teamster; was
born in Montgumeiy county. 111., in 1S46; came to state and
county in 1S7S; married Feb. 22, T870, to Carrie Bradford.
Children, .Marion G., Lewis N., Charles F., Jesse L. and
Daisy A.

Desto.n' High; lives in Ashland; is a saloon keeper; was
born November 9, 1849, in Montgomery county. 111.; came to
state and county in 1877; was married in l'S68 to Luella
Cooley. Children, Ernest, Lester. LiHan and Luty. Mr.
High was again married in 1879, to .Miss Laura Barneberg.
Her children, Mary E. and Lizzie.

R. F. High: lives in Ashland; is a barber, was born in
Montgomery county. 111., May 14, 1852; came to state and
county 1877; was married to Laura A. Thompson, Aug., 24,
1879: children, Herbeil X. and Harrv.

Hansell C. Hill: lixc. in A4il,in,l: i. a furniture dealer;
was born in Charlciton. .\Ia.-.>aLliu>cll>. in 1821; came to
California in 1S49, and to this state and county in 1854; was
married in 1S44 to Mary C. Nowell. Children, William,
Annie M., Charles, George and Susan.

John Holton: lives on Wagner creek post office Talent; is
a farmer; born in Westminster Vt., July 6, i8l7;came to state
and county in 1853: was married April 2, 1848, to Mrs.
Hannah C. Chandler; one child, Ira P.

Jasper Houck: lives in Ashland; is a hotel keeper; came
to state and county in 1852; was married January 1857, to
Johannah Horn. Children, Teresse (deceased), Henry (de-
ceased), Jesse J., Grace and Frederick.

S. Houser: lives at Grant's Pass; is a railroad employe;
born near Mogodore, Pennsylvania; came to state in 1864; to
county in 1883; married December 19, 1S79, to Ella Cham-
berlain. Child, Ella.

J. W. Howard: lives at Grant's Pass; is a merchant; was
born in Warren county, Kentucky, in 1851; came to state
and county in 1877; was married January 1, 1884, to Eudora
Godfrey.

E. B. Hunsaker: lives in Ashland; is a merchant; was born
in Lane county, Oregon; caine to this county in 1882: was
married Feb. 19, 1879, to Cecelia L. Parker; one child, Carrie.

J. B. R. HuTCHiNGS: lives in Ashland; is a gentjral trader;
was born in Madison county, Mo., 1840; came to state in 1877;
to county in 1878; was married in 1S72 to Martha Patton.

J. W. Ingram: lives at WilloW' Springs; is a miner; was
born in Cole county. Mo., in 1837, came to state and county
in 1870.

F. B. INI.OW: lives in Eagle Point; is a merchant; was born
in Bourbon county, Ky.; came to state in 1854; to county in
1875; married December 1858 to Matilda Zumwalt (deceased);
children, Isabel (deceased), Frank B., John H., Nadis A.
and Ada A. ; was again married to Mrs. Ellen Morrison; one
child, Freddie E.

George W. Isaacs: lives on Little Butte creek; post-office
address, Brownsborough; is a farmer and stock grower; born
in Lincoln county, Tenn., 1831; came to state in 1852 and to
county in 1858; was married December, 1S70, to .Mary A.
Sevedge. Children, George W., Mary E., John S. (deceased)
William T. and Charles W.

Abraham S. Jacobs: lives in Jacksonville; present
sheriff; by trade, stonemason; born in Johnson county, Ind.;
came to state in 1S65 and to county in 1867; married March
28, 1855, to Rebecca E. Mathes (deceased); was again mar-
ried December 2, 1876, to Mrs. May Smith. Children, New-
ton A., Lanes L., John \V. and Mary F.

Dr. Will Jackson: lives in Jacksonville; is a dentist;
was born near Huntsville, Mo.; came to state in 1866, to
county, 1869; was married April 27, 1871, to Hattie Thomp-
son. Children, Jennie, Jessie, Will Ray and Ruth.

Stoughton p. Jones: lives in Jacksonville; is a saloon
keeper; was born in Toncanic, Penn., May 25, 1S31; came to
state and county in 1856; was married October 26, 1S66, to
Elizabeth V. Twogood. Children, Carrie B. and Lulu T.

Georc.e R. Justus: hves at Grant's Pass; is a livery
keeper; was born in Jackson county, Iowa, 1852; came to
state and county in 1854; married November 8, 1881, to
Sarah J. McKnight.

Dr. Geo. Kahler: lives at Phoenix; is a physician; was
born in Morgan county, Ohio, February, 1843; came to state
and county in 1852; was married October, 1S67, to Sylva
Oglesby. Children, Orange, Earl, Albion, Fred and Linn.

Charles \V. Kahler: lives in Jack.sonviile; is a lawyer;
was born in Morgan county, Ohio, November 4, 1840; ar-
rived in state and county October, 1852.

Chas. Keeton: lives in Jacksonville: is a farmer; was
born in Cass county. Mo.; came to state and county in 1878;
married November, iSSi, to Ada Killahan. Child, infant.

W. W. Kentnor: lives in Ashland; is a wagon maker;
was born in Illinois, November 27, 1828; came to state and
county in 18^5: was married October 20, 1861, to Sarah -•\.
Million. Childicn, Ma F., Johnnie and Albert.

T. J. Kknm\: livc^ in Jacksonville; is a saddler and har-
ness maker: w.Ts liorn in Jackson county, Oregon; was mar-
ried December 22, 1S7S, to Rosa Ulrich. Children. Daniel,
Katie J. and Christian J.

William G. Kenney: lives in Jacksonville; is a stage
driver; was born in Jackson county, Oregon.

T. T. McKfnzie:" Hves in Jacksonville; was born in Inver-
nesshire, Scotland; came to state in 1855; to county in 1S65;
married March 27, 1866, to Rebecca Hopwood. Children,
May, (deceased), Percy, Selina, Thomas, Monroe, William
and Charles P.

William R. Kincaid: lives near Ashland; is a former
post-master of Ashland; was born April 6, 1843, in Augusta
county, Va. ; came to state and county in 1864; married June,
20, 1869, to Ophelia J. Evans. Children, William D., May
Ann, Alice M., EttieF., Archie R., Daisy O. and Martha J.
Simon Klingle: lives on Little Butte creek; post-office is
Brownsborough; was born in Pike county, 111.; came to state
and county in 1866; married 1868 to Anna M. Sullivan.
Children, Katie (deceased), Charles and Ellen.

C. K Klum. lives in Ashland; is a dealei in saddlery and
harness, was born m Franklin count), Ind ; came to state m
1847 and to count) in 1853; was mairied lune, 1S75, to Lu
cinda H Finlt). Children, Hypatia. Chailes W and Blaine
C. Kleinhammer lises neai Ph it.ni\ i^iliimei; was
born in Hano\er, German), OctuKi 1 in, i to state

and county in i860; married in I 11 1 1S05,

to Francis A. Saltmarsh. Children imc M ,

Arthur S , Mary I., Augusta, MazLit W 1

Frank Krause. lues in Jackson\ille, is a piintei and
telegraph opeiator; was boin m Burlington, Iowa, March 5,
1851; come to state and county in i860; married March 5,
1879, toMissMollie S. Bilger. Children, Ella L. and Frank O.
Kasper Kum.i: lives in Jacksonville; is a hardware mer-
chant; was born in Canton (ilarus, Switzerland; was mairied
December 27, 1857, to Lienor J. Newcomb. Children,
Ellen Watson, Henry, Minerva (deceased), Francis (deceased),
Kasper, Lulu and \'aline.

Geo. W. Lance: lives at the mouth of Foot's creek; post-
office address Rock Point; is a farmer and stock grower; was
born in White county, Tenn., i\Iarch 11, 1S32; came to state
and county in 1870; was married October, 1870, to -Mrs.
Esther Fitzgerald, daughter of John Robb. Children, George

nd marriage, William. Lillie and

\V. and Francis M.; by
Mary.

William T. Leever: lives near Central Point; is a
farmer; was born in Clermont county, Ohio, February 27,
1829; came to state in 1853 and to county in 1854; marr ed
January I, 1857, to Elizabeth M. Constant. Children, Wm.
C, Lavinia Ida, EdmondsonC, D. Carlos, Thomas, Ada, Lu-
cinda, Nellie and Lizzie.

James R. Little: lives in Jacksonville; dealer in tobaccos,
confectionery, etc.; born in Jacksonville.

David Lin.N: lives in Jacksonville; is a contractor and
furniture manufacturer; was born in Guernsey county, Ohio,
October 28, 1826; came to state in 1851 and to county in
1852; married Anna S. Huffman August 30, i860. Children,
Corinne, Maggie, William, Fletcher, George, Mary and James.
Tobias L. Linkwiler: lives on Antelope creek; is a farmer;
post office. Eagle Point; born in Rockbridge county, Virginia;
came to state and county in 1S52; married in 1859 to Mrs.
Hannah Riley. Children, George, William, Joseph, James,
Ellen and Catherine.

Charles W. Logan; lives in Ashland; is a photographer;
was born in Davenport, Iowa; came to state in 1868 and to
county in 1871; married September, 1879, '" Hattie M.
Reeser. Child, Blanche D.

E. H. LOFFTUS: lives in Ashland; is a stock raiser; was
born in Christian county, Kentucky in 1827; came to state in
1853 and to county in 1859; was married in 1852 to Elizabeth
Banta. Children, Mary F., Columbus C, Edward H., John
W. and Oscar D.

Patrick Lvttleton: lives in Ashland; is a gardener and
horticulturist; was born in Pennsylvania June 8, 1837; came
to the state and county in 1879.

G. H. Lynch: lives on Wagner creek; is a farmer; post-
offtce. Talent; born in Brunswick county, Vh'ginia; came to
state and county in 1S69; married November 12, 1866, to Rosa
Lynxwiler. Children, W. M. F., Mary E., Lillie R., Clara
E., Travis H., Harry S., and Warren.

Carrel B. Matney: lives on Applegate creek; is a farmer
and blacksmith; was born in Redford county, Tenn.; came to
state in 1850, to county 1852; was married July 24, 1859, t»
Margaret A. Maupin; children, Samuel (deceased), Jefferson
D., Alvis M., Carrel B. (deceased), Nancy, Martha J., Thomas
F., .Mary, William W., George W., John N., May, Isaac D.,
Millie, Icy B. and infant.

John .Mathews; lives at Eagle Point; is a farmer; was born
in Montgomery county, X. C, March 2, 1816; came to state
and county in 1S53; wa^ married October 1S37, to Eliz.ibeth
Wooley; children, Willi.ini (deceased), Drucilla, Millie, Dud-
ley P., America, Ruth. Hczekiah, Juda R., Mary E., Elizabeth
.1. (deceased), .Martha, Maria. Green B., Champion G. and
Minerva (deceased).

CoL. Reuben F. Maury: lives near Jacksonville, is a
farmer, was born in Bath county, Ky. ;canie to state and county
in 1852; was married December 14, 1856, to Elizabeth Cham-
bers: children, L. P., G. L., Mary P., H C, Sallie A. and
Effie (deceased). Mrs. Maury died August 27, 1878. Col.
Maury was in Mexican war in 1846 and promoted during war
to Second Lieutenant. In l86l raised first regiment Oregon
cavalry."

Simon McCallister: lives at Soda Springs on Butte
creek, is a school teacher; post office Brownsborough; was
born in Sangamon county. 111., i83l;caine to state in 1852,
to county in 1861; was married September 21, 1853, to Eliza-
beth Ogle; children, Mary E., Celia A., James A., John G.,
Elizabeth H., Minnie G. and Joseph M.

C. C. McClendon: lives in Sam's Valley; is a farmer; post
office Sam's Valley, was born in Bledsaw county, Tenn., 1832,
came to state in 1852, to county in 1864; married October 6,
1S58, to Susan Brown: children, William P. (deceased), Ben-
jamin F. (deceased). Mary 1., Joseph B., .Samuel W., Susan-
nah (deceased:, John II., Rosa .\I., Lillie B. and Nora B.

John Wilmk.k .\IcCri.i v: formerly of Jacksonville, now of
Joseph, Oregon, is a physician, was born in New Brunswick:
came to state in 1851, and to county 1852; was married June
28, 1848, to Miss Janet Mason, of AUowa, Scotland; children,
James C, Mollie Bell, (Merretl died January 1SS4), and Issic.
J. P. McDaniel: lives in Jacksonville: is a miner; came to
s;.-ite in 1S52, and to county in 1854; was married November
20, 1872, to Catherine Parker; children, Fred, James, Ida,
Ella, (Eddie and Emma twins).
James .McDonoi'ch: lives near Willow Springs; is a farmer

and carpenter; was born in Greene county, Penn., Jime 8, 1826:
came to state and county in 1852; was married August 18,
1855, to R. M. Kahler; children, Sarah C. (deceased), Carlos,
Helen, Harriett, John W., Martin C. and George.

John W. McKay: lives near Willow Springs; is a farmer;
was born in Iredelle county. North Carolina; came to state
and county in 1852: was married December I, 1861, to Sarah
A. Slagle; children, Robert L. (deceased), Martha A. (de-
ceased), Hughey, Nancy C. George G. and John H.

Robert McLean: lives in Ashland; is a Presbyterian min-
ister; was born Oneida county, N. Y., February 22, 1846;
came to state ,!i, ! - ■'.:r\ m 1S83; married August 29, 1877, to
Lucy R. Noi n : : I 1. I : iv .McGregor, and Robert N.

Mrs. Ari' I -' 1 \n: lives near Central Point;isa

farmerpostolli. r J,;, i., ii.illc; was born in Champagne county,
Ohio in 1S30; came 10 state 1851, and to county in 1856;
Artinecia (Riddle) Merriman was married February 22, 1848,
to James Chapman deceased; children, John W., Lucinda J.,
George F., Laura A., Maria E., Annie A., Isaac A., Mary B.,
Isabel, Effie, Josephine and \Villie; Mr. Merriman had one
daughter Anletta L. ;Mrs. Merriman has buried four children,
Chas. H., Walter, Prudence and Winaford.

William H. Merriman: died in Jackson county, Sep-
tember 16, 1877; was a cabinet maker and joiner; was born
in Kentucky; came to state in 1852 and to county in 1856;
was married February 10, 1853, to Mrs. A. Chapman.

H. C. Messenger: lives in Ashland; proprietor of saw
mill; was born in Chenango count)', N. Y. ; came to state in 1858
and to county in 1879; married, July 5, 1882, to Bessie L.
Marsh. Only child, Walter J.

Bennett Million: lives at Ashland; is a farmer; was
born in .\dair county, Ky., February 12, 1812; came to state
and county in 1854; was married March 24, 1841, to Miss
Armilda Beam. Children, Eliza E., John B., Sarah A.,
Laura J., Martha, Kizzie A., Phebe A., Jackson M., Caetha E.,
William B., Joseph T. and Charles C, all living in the same
vicinity.

John S. Miller: lives on Applegate creek; is a farmer;
born in Clay county. Mo., in 1824; came to stale in 1846 and
to county in 1852; was married May 27, 1852, to L. Mar-
garet Griffin. Children, Josephine, Nancy, Richard (de-
ceased), Louisa, John,- Anistasia, Burrel, Lydia (deceased)
and Walter. Mr. Miller was in the Cayuse war.

CoL. J. N. T. Miller: lives in Jacksonville; is a farmer
and stock grower; born in Kentucky, 1826; came to state in
1845 and to county in 1854; married August, 1S52 to Bessie
H. Awbery. .

John Miller: lives in Jacksonville; is gunsmith and
hardware merchant; born in Barbaren, Germany; came to
state and county in i860; married March, 1854, to Mary
Shmutz. Children, Melia, Sarah M., Philip, Katie, John,
Mollie and Henry.

David H. Miller: lives at Medford; is a merchant; was
born in Jefferson county, Iowa, May 10, 1859; came to
county in 1875; was married July 2, 1871, to Elmira Brons.
Benjamin F. Miller: lives near Rock Point; is a horti-
culturist; was born in Hamilton county, Ohio, July 31, 1832;
came to Oregon in 1854; married May 14, 1857, to Martha
J. Sutton. Children, Mary E., Benjamin C, John T. and
Maggie A.

A. S. Moon: lives in Sam's valley; is a merchant; born in
Susquehanna counry, Penn.; came to state and county in
1859; married April 11, 1865, to Melissa Cox. Children,
Laura, Grant (deceased), Charles, Ralph, Newman and Tru-
man (twins), Beulah, George, Andrew, Martha and Clara
(deceased).

Raphael Morat: lives near Jacksonville; is a grape and
wine glower and distiller; was born near Pyrenees mountains,
France; came to California in 1859 and to state and county
in 1S70.

Samuel Morgan: lives in Ashland; is a blacksmith; wa.s
born in Stark county, Ohio, August 23. 1832; came to state
September 15, 1850; to county, 1851; was married first to
Miss Wells, (deceased), and wa.s again married to Martha
Ilendrix in 1878. Children, William, William, Francis,
James, Myrtle B., John B. and S.amucl.

Edwin Morgan: lives at Phoenix; is proprietor of a
saloon and livery stable; was born in Little Dean. Gloucest-
ershire, Eng.; came to stale and county in 1S52: marrie<l,
1857, to Lucrelia Oden. Children, Sarah I",.. Mary C,
Charles D., Walter S., Richard M., Mark P. and William II.

APPENDIX.

Lorenzo I). Montcomery: lives in Ashland; was bncn
in Hancock county, Ind., August l8, 1823; came to Califor-
nia in 1849, 'o state in 1854, and to county in 1858.

P)nLi.iP Mullen: lives in Phoenix; is a miner and
assayer; born in Sullivan county, N. V., June 14, 1839;
came to state and county in 1S75.

Max ilULLER: lives in Jacksonville; is a merchant; born
in Reckendorf, Germany; came to state and county in 1S55;
married Jmie II, 186S, to Louise Hesse. Children, Ike,
Emily, PJetla. Will and Sophie.

Gran\ii.le Xavlok: lives near Jacksonville; is a farmer;
was born in Jackson county, Ind., Feb. 16, 1822; came to
state in iS5i;"to county in 1853; was married June, 1848, to
Minerva Seris. Children, Adolphus, Malvina, Melvin, Net-
tie, Alta, Minerva and Ida.

Claiborn Xeil: lives near Ashland; is a farmer; was
born in Claiborn county. East Tenn. ; came to state in 1853,
and to county in 1854; was married Dec. 5, 1839, to Louisa
C. Gibson. Children, James R., John H., William L., Sarah
A., Leander A., Robert P., Louisa C, Thomas S., Tennessee
v., Mary A., J. C. and Gertrude.

Leander A. Neil: lives near Ashland: is a farmer and
stock raiser; was born in Tennessee; came to state in 1853,
and to countvin 1854: was married Nov. 14, 1880, to Augusta
R. Sisson. Children, Elmore S. and Ellis.

M. NiCKKLSON: lives at Ashland; is a blacksmith; was
born in Holland county, Norway, May 26, 1831; came to
America July, 1S49, and to Oregon in 1854.

J. H. Oatman: lives near Phrenix; is a farmer; was born
in Ogle county. 111., Jan. 28, 1849; came to state and county
in 1853; was married Dec. 31. 1875, to Priscilla Dollarhide.
Children, Olive 1. and Te'=sic.

Bartleit Ohenchain: live- near Central Point; is a

farmer and stock grower
came to state and counl\
Nancy Morse. Childrn
ram N.(decea5ed), Eli/V
Silas H., .Sarah M., X,i
John Orth: lives in
in Bavaria, (jermany, M
county

iH.rnin Bantontot county, Va. ;
S()2; m.iiried June 23, 1850, to
\, ieeeased), Alice I., Hi-
i :-ed), Maldoren, Jennie,

, 1. ' L. and George E.
■ I '.iIm ; 1- a butcher; was born
, 1S14: came to state 1857, and
ed March, 1S62, to Ella Hill.
Children, Flora, Celia, Charles S. (deceased), Josephine, John
S. (deceased), Annie, Henry and Ella.

Whliam Patton: lives near Talent; is a farmer; came
to Slate in 187? and to county in 1874; was born in \'ermilion
county. 111., 1827; married June 13, l852, to Marena A.
Parha'm, born Decembers, 1834. Children, Mary F., Geor-
getta C, Annie B., Emma E., Willie S., Laura M., Alpha
C. and Nathan F.

Jacob Parks: lives near Sterling creek: proprietor of saw
mill; post-office address, Jacksonville; was born in Powshiek
county, Iowa; came to state in 1875, 'o county in 1S80; was
married in 1871 to Lizzie Waters. Children, Edna M., Mat-
tie A., Ethel v., Ella A. and Hollis I.

Wm. H. Parker: lives at Brownsborough; is a school
teacher; ivas horn in Knox county: III, in 1845; came to
state in 1852; to county in 1854; was married August 11, 1867,
to Fannie Jones. Children, Jennie, Iva M., George, Day,
Otis, Joseph Watt.

Charles C. Parker: lives on Cain's creek; is a farmer
and lumberman; post-office. Willow Springs; was born in
Marion county, Oregon; came to county in August 1854; was
married October 13, 1880, to Mrs. Mary M. Marshall. Chil-
dren, Charles S and Delbert H. ; children by (irst marriage,
Joseph E. and Hartie Bell.

James A. Pankey: lives in Sam's valley; is a farmer; was
born in Hickman county, Tenn.; came to state in 1853, and
to county in 1859; was married March 1842, to Fannie Strick-
lin. Children, Catherine (deceased), Sarah J., Martha L.,
Lydia (deceased), Thomas L., Mary A., Emily and Emma,
twins, and Ross (deceased).

J. S. Parson: lives in Ashland; is a physician and surgeon;
was born in Lycoming county. Pa., in 1850; came to state
and county in 1881; was married October 11, 1882, to Olive
Belle Drake.

Rev. Martin Peterson: lives at "Mound Ranch," on
Sticky Flat, is a minister and farmer; post-office, Jackson-
ville; was born near Cincinnati, Ohio; came to state and
county in 1864; was married in 1842, to Sarah Arrowood (de-
ceased), leaving one child, Mary E. Was again married Sep-
tember 18, 1844, to Elizabeth Hamrick. Children, Lorena

(deceased). Kittle, Silas (deceased), William G. (deceased).
Smith (deceased), Frank (deceased).

Enoch Pelton: died in Sam's valley; was a farmer; was
born near Little Rock, Ark,; came to State and county in
1853; married Mary S. Rowe. in 1857. Children, Horace, I.
James W. and John E.

David Peninger: lives near Willow Springs; is a farmer;
was born in Lewis county, Virginia; came to state and county
in 1852; was married March 1869, to Louisa Cox. Children,
John and Charles, twins, George (deceased), Fred and Hattie.

George F. Pennebaker: lives at Talent; is a farmer;,
was born in Shelby county, Ky., April i, 1821; came to state
and county in 1879; was married April 8, 1858, to Sarah A.
Predmore. Children, E. Delia, John S., George W., Mary
B. and Edwin R.

Samuel Phillips: lives on Applegate creek; is afarmer
and stock grower; post-office, Uniontown; was born in Wayne
county, Ky., in 1819; came to state and county in 1853; was
married January I, 1858, to Mrs. Elizabeth J. Finley. Chil-
dren by first marriage, Lucinda, Williaii!, Henry and Grant; by
second marriage, Adaline and Charles R.

Arthur Pool: lives at Eagle Point; is a blacksmith and
hotel keeper; was born in Bedford county, Penn. ; came to
state and county in 1873; was married September 4, 1S52, to
Lettie Apger. Children, Carinda E., James M., Josephine,
Chester W., Rhoda A., Dora M., Wintield, Belle (deceased),
Carrie, Benton, Arthur and Lottie (deceased). Mrs. Pool
died at Eagle Point August 1882.

M. PuRIiIN: lives at Eagle Point; is a blacksmith; was
born in Linn county, Mo.; came to state in 1864, and to
countv in 1S73; was married Sept. 1874, 'o Lizzie Worlow.
Children, Irn E., Iva, Lindsay and Lottie.

Will lAM K w: lives on Applegate creek; isa farmer, post of-
hce lark^jinille; bi.rn in Buller county, Penn.; came to state
and iouniv in lS^7: was married October 23, 1872, to Mr.s.
Loui-.i Knu'^ii \\ard (deceased I; children, William, Robert,
Mary 1;. and Matliew.

Gij'. \\ . Km KiK: lives on South fork of Butte creek; is a
farmci anil -li ^ck i;iower; was born in Loudoun county, Virginia;
«ame to the stale, and county in 1S60; was married January
15, 1872, to Sarah Swingle; children, Henry H., Edith O.,
May, and Ida .S. Post office Brownsboro.

Alfred F. Ragsdale: lives on Salt creek; is a farmer and
stock raiser; post office is Brownsborough;was born in Jackson
county. Georgia, came to state in 1852, and to county in 1872;
was married July 2, 1872, to Malinda W. Taylor.

James R. Rea.ms: lives near Phcenix, is a farmer; was born
in Gracen county, K., January 6, 1844, came to state and to
county in 1853; married May 16, 1S75, to Lavica A. Strong;
children, Lillie M., Elsie A. Harry W, and Nellie.

C. H Reed: lives in Jacksonville, is a painter; was born in
Howard county. Ky., came to state in 1853, and to county in
I,S'54; was married Tune 23, 1863, to Calista Smith; children,
Edd, Dell, Myrtle "and Frank.

Miller G. Royal; lives in Ashland; is principal of .Ash-
land College; was born October 6, 1S53; in Roop county,
Nevada; came tostatein 1853; was m.arried .\ugust 19, 1877, to
Tirzah H. Bigelow. Only child, Ethel.

Louis A. Rose: lives in Pheenix, is a farmer and stock
grower; was born in Lee county. Iowa. June 12 1846; came to
state and to county in 1S52: was married November 16, 1871,
to Isabel Colver; children, Effie L., Ella M., Louis .\. and
Bertha M.

Samuel M. Robison: lives on Wagner creek; isa farmer,
post office Talent, is a native of Indiana; came to state and coun-
ty in 1853; was married April 13, 1864, to Hannah E. Barne-
berg; children, John R., Susan A., George M., William G.,
Ella D. and Delia M.

Carl G. B. Rostel: lives in Jacksonville, is a tonsorial
artist; was born November 25, 1849, in Filehne, Germany;
came to state and county in 1877; was assistant surgeon in
Franco- Prussian war.

James R. Russell: lives in Ashland; is a marble cutter; is
a native of Tennessee: came to state and county in 1851; mar-
ried May 9. iSi4. to Ann Hasseltine Hill. Children, James
B., Grace, Xellie. Martha, Marv, Hortese, Docia, Bertha E.,
Mabel E., Cail MaiMn, rcail H.

H. D. Russell: lives on Forest creek, is a miner; post office
Jacksonville; was born in Wabash county, Ind., in i847;cnnie
to state in 1878, to county in 18S1: married November i, 1878,
to Eliza J. Morgan; children, Edward and Nathan.

507

Joseph 15. Saltmarsh: lives on Sterling creek; is a
miner; post-office is Jacksonville; was born in Kipley county,
Inil., 1825; came to state in 1851 and to county in 1852; was
married first, February 19, 1852, to Mary E. Khmm (de-
ceased). Children, Annie and Charles JI. (deceased), Ar-
thur, Arzie, Lillie and Edward. Was again married, Novem-
ber 24, 1881, to Mrs. Ella Cameron. One child, Madison.
Mrs. Cameron at time of last marriage had two children, Ola
B. and Mary J.

Viet Schutz: lives in Jacksonville; is a brewer; came
from Bavaria, Germany; came to state in 1852 and to county
i)i IS53; married Hannah Libge. Children, Gurtof, Delia,
William aiul Emma. Mr. Schutz keeps the largest brewery
in Southern Oregon

J. A. SiiARS: lives in Ashland; is a barber; was born in
Ashland October 10, 1863; is the son of Joseph and Eliza
Sears, who came to Oregon from Iowa in 1854.

Conrad S. Seriient: lives in Phcenix; is a merchant:
was born in Western Virginia, July 21, 1832, came to stale and
county in 1853; was married, August, 1856, to Loetta Houck.
Children, Maggie E. and Laura U.

Peter SiMO.N: lives at Eagle Point; is a tavern keeper
and farmer; was born in Hesse Cassel, Germany, in 1827;
came to state and county in 1854; was married August 11,
1S50. to Elizabeth Etzenhauser, of Hesse. Children living
are John H., Alice C, Daniel M., Emma S., Peter C. and
Edward F.; deceased. Conr.id F., Edward, Mary A., Cath-
erine E., Peter, Chaiies W. and Margaret.

Pi.KASANT Smmii: lives in Sam's valley; is a farmer; was
born in Cock county, Tenn. : came to state in 1874 and to
county in 1S76; was married in 1845 to Sarah Hackney.
Children living, Darthula, William L., Alexander, Martha
A., Lot C. and Lewis; children deceased, Henry C, Lycur-
gus, Nancy J., Margaret, and Absolom.

John W. Smith: lives on Big Sticky; is a farmer; post-
oflice. Central Point; was born in Cass county, Mich.; came
to state and countv in 1S70; was married December 22,
1S59, to Melissa A. Norton. Children, Cieo. B., Arthur A.,
Charles H., Kiank D.. R.llin E., Alfred, Lewis E. and Le-
roy A. (twins), and j..hn W.

J. A. Si,o\ KK; lives in Jacksonville; is a minister and
hotel keeper; was born in Jet^'erson county, East Tenn., 1824;
came to state and county in l88i; was married first time to
H. Ingram. Children, John E., Thomas J., Elizabeth J.,
Russetl H., and Melvina. Was married second time to Mrs.
Josephine M. Rogers. Children, Mary E., Fannie I., James
A., CJeorge H. and infant (deceased).

William F. Songer: lives in Ashland; is a farmer and
stock grower; was born in Washington county, 1826; came to
state in 1S52 and to county in 1854; was married in 1869 to
Mrs. Cecelia Slade, whose children were Charles W., Frank
O. and Belle. Mr. and Mrs. Songer's only child is Mary E.

Dr. a. C. Stanley: lives in Sam's valley; is a physician;
post-office is Sam's Valley; was born in Berry county. Mo.,
September 30, 1835; came to slate and county in 1875; was
married first to Miss Sarah Burns (deceased), in 1856, and to
Miss .Susan Martin, October 24, 1862. Child, Ledoth Ellen.
Dr. Stanley was in the state legislature in 1880 and 1882.

Jacou Stone: lives in Ashland; is a carpenter; was born
in Virginia, August 24, 1844; came to state in 1869 and to
county in 1873; "^^ married in 1868 to Rachel Wimer.
Children, Daniel W., Eva May, Sarah E., Pearly, Jennie
F., Mary L. and Cora E.

Mrs. M. E. Sturgis: lives near Uniontown, on Apple-
gate; is a farmer; was born in Quincy, 111.; came to state and
county in i860; was married in 1861; maiden name, M. E.
Talley. Ch Idren, Winter. Albert (deceased), and FredT.

John SwindeN: live- on Cain's creek: is a miner and
farmer; post-office, ko,l. ['.:;)■; xva-: 1;; \n \:.:l-],'u. . I!ng.;
came to stale in 1851 .1: i^;j; • 1 .uried

May 9, 1849, to Mrs. 1 : I , - : :, h.ad

one child, James. Chiliin. ^ : ;li \. 1 i.ii 1'. \l.u\ A.,
Georgia A., William H., kubert F., [ohn K., Olive E.,
George W., Charles L., Kate, Rhoda J. and Agnes I.

Robert Tayi.or: lives at Ashland; is a saloon keeper;
was born in Philadelphia, June M. 1853; came to state and
county in 1869; was m.irried July 3, 1876, to Louisa Briltain.
Children, Eva and Jay.

A. P. Talent: lives in Talent; is a merchant; was born in
Blunt county, Tenn., May 15, 1836; came tostate and county
in 1S75; "-IS married in 1859, to Mrs. .Martha A. Phifer. Chil-

dren, W'. A., John T., Sigourney A., Margaret J., lames O.,
Ella, S., Bertha M., Charles T. and Martha M.

Jacob Tho.mpson: lives in Ashland; is proprietor of livery
stable; was born in Greene county, Ind. ; came to stale in
1847, and to county in 1855: was married September 10,1863,
to Mrs. America E. Butler. Step-son, Gwin S. Butler.

James Thornton; lives at Ashland; is general superin-
tendent of Ashland woolen mills; is a native of Indiana;
came to state in 1850: to county in 1854; was married in 1848,
to Isabel Wallace (ileceased, 1862). Children, Kale A.,
I-aura B., Sarah E., L. H.; was again married June 1863, to
Miss Lizzie Patterson. Children, Fred S., Hattie M., James
E. and Ole A.

Job R. Tozer: lives at Ashland; is a mechanic and builder;
was born in December 30, 1842, in Pennsylvania; came to
state 1S65, and county in 1868; was married July 18, 1867, to
Harriet Briggs (deceased). Only child, Albert B. Was
again married June 14, 1874, to Louisa C. Neil.

John R. Tyce: lives near Jacksonville; is a farmer; was
born in Covington, Ind., August 15, 1832; came to stale in
1851, and to county in 1853; was married Junes, '856, to
Margaret Wright. Children, Fred, Annie A., Walter A.,
Nettie L, Charlie, Harry F., Effie F., Maggie L., John J.,
Thos. R. and Paul.

John Watson: lives near Central Point, is a farmer and
stock grower post office Jacksonville born in St. Stephens, New
Brunswick, came to state and county in 1854; married 1861,
to Phelie Hill.

John P. Walker: lives near Ashland; is a farmer; was born
in Christian county, Ky.; cnnie to stale and county in 1853;
married January 26, is;;. \li M.uvA. Walker; children,
Mary E., Milo A. ( ;. ' \ii,,ieT.

Jacob Wagner; I: \ : I; is a miller; was born

September 26, 1S20. lu I'l;. :i, ijluo; came to state in I850,
and to countv in 1851; was married in i860, to Ellen Hendrix.
Children, Annethi, John M., Frederick N., Mabel E.. Ella
T., Jessie N. and Jacob Ernest.

John W. Well's: lives near Ashland; is a farmer and stock
raiser; was born in \'an Buren county, Iowa, October 26,
1843; came to state and county in 1853; was married June 4,
187S, to Mrs. Phebe J. Walker. Only one child, Spratt. Mrs.
Walker's children, Camilla E. and Phebe M.

Charles E. White: lives near Rock Point: is a farmer;
was born in Hillsdale county, Michigan; came to .stale in 1858,
and to county in 1859; w^as married December 24, 1878, to
Mollie Farra. Children, Corlies and Harry.

H. L. White: lives in Rock Point, is a hotel and livery
keeper, was born in Hillsdale county, Michigan; came to slate
in 1858 and to county in 1859; married October 13, 1880, lo
Hattie A. Tuffs. Children, Charles T. and William M.

L. J. White: died at Rock Point October 25, 1877; was a
native of Livingston county, N. V. ;came to slate in 1858, and
lo county in 1859; was married June 27, 1844, to Jane E.
Ganyard. Children, George (deceased), Julius (deceased),
Leicester, Henry, Charles, Colonel, and Ella (deceased). Mr.
While was the principal founder of Rock Point.

George M. Willard: livesin Ashland;isamercliant; was
born in Orange county, Vl., February 26, 1853; came lo stale
in 1882 and to county in 1883; was married December 23,
187610 Lottie C. David, of Minneapolis, Min.

Wise Bros. : lives in Ashland; are merchants; Solomon
was born September 26, 1854, and J. M. July 5, l856in New
Vork city; Solomon came to slate and county in 1878; J. M.
came lo state in 1877 and to county in 1882.

John Wintjen: lives in Jacksonville, is a liquor dealer;
was born in 1823, in Kahstidl, (Jermany.

James P. Woodson: lives in Ashland, is a teamster and
farmer; was born in Richmond, Virginia, June 7, 1830; came
to state in 1859; was married November 7, 1864, to Laura J.
Million. Children, Flora A., Delia M., Phebe A., Maggie,
George B.-and Nellie B

H. H. Wolters: livesin Ashlaml: is a Inilchcr; is a na-
tive of New Vork city; came t' : 1 • m ' my in 1861.

Thomas W'righT: lives ne,,: W 1: - -n is a farmer
and stock raiser; was born in M \. Ky., came to

stale and county in 1852; »a- miii; M.iy 27, 1863,10
Elizalielh Coojier. Children, Laura (decea>eil), William N.,
Marv M. and Margaret E.

liKciKC.E Vawdes: lives on Sterling creek; is a miner anil
farmer post office, Jacksonville; is a native of Tenn.; came to
state and counlv in 1S52; was m.irried December I, 1872, 10

508 APPENDIX.

Mrs. Annie Comstock. Mrs. C. had one child, Oda; by last came to state and county in 1S52; was married in 1865, to

marriage has, Letta M. , Aaron B. and Albert. Willimina Shriner (deceased 1882). Children, Anna, Peter

NiCHOL.vs A. Young: hves near Eagle Point; is a farmer F., Thomas F., Katie, Nicholas and Clara M.
and stock grower; was born in Lorraine, France, in 1824;

JOSEPHINE COUNTY.

Mrs. M.4RY Adams: lives on Deer creek, is a farmer;
post-office is Kerbyville; was born in Washington county,
Ohio, in 1830; came to state in 1S53 and to county in 1S54;
married William Guest in 1848, who was killed in the Rogue
river war. Children, John R., Lucy and William H. Was
again married in i857 to Edwin Potter (deceased 1770); since
married Mr. Adams.

James W. Baine: lives on Sucker creek; is a farmer; post-
office is Althouse; was born in Somerset county, Afaine; came
to state and county in 1869; married November 22, i860, to
Sarah A. Wesscott. Children, Elizabeth E., Josie B. and
Emma B.

William H. Basye: lives on Missouri flat on Applegate
creek; is a farmer; post-oftice address, Applegate; was born
in Tippecanoe county, Ind., in 1S30; came to state in 1847
and to county in 1S62; married, March 3, 1850, to Elizabeth
Streithoff. Children, Thomas E., Miranda (deceased), Ce-
celia, Charles H., Theodore, Jenette and Lucius C.

Melchi Baughman: lives in Kerbyville; is a miner; w^as
born in Columbiana county, Ohio, in 1831; came to state and
county in 1852; was married December 27, 1882, to Lottie
Cheatham. Only child, John J.

C. H. Beach: lives on Democrat gulch; is a merchant and
miner; post-office, Althouse; is postmaster; was born in Nor-
folk, Conn.; came to state and county in 1S54.

Rial Benedict: lives on Applegate creek; is a farmer and
stock raiser; post-office, Applegate; was born in Genessee
county, N. Y., 1828; came to state in 1852 and to county in
1853; was married January i, 1845, to Mary J. Congle (de-
ceased May 6, 1880.)

John M. Bour: lives on Illinois river; is a miner; post-
ofiSce, Kerbyville; was born in Lorriane, France, 18 14; came
to state and county in 1852; married Barbara Dessinger, Sep-
tember, 1861. Children, Joseph, Frank, David, Peter, Mary,
Victor, Charles and George.

John O'Brien: lives on Applegate; is a farmer and stock
raiser; post-office, Applegate; was born in county Galway,
Ireland, 1828; came to state and county in 1S52; w-as mar-
ried March 19, 1862, to Sarah S. Barkdull. Children, Emniett
John E., James A. and Sarah R.

A. H. Carson: lives on Applegate; is a nurseryman; post-
office is Murphy; wa? born in Washington county, Ohio, in
IS43; came to state and county in I874; was married April
24, iS56, to Miss M. E. Donnelley. Children, Alice and
Lewis; May and infant are deceased.

LvMAN Chappell: lives on Applegate; is a hotel keeper
and farmer; post-office, Applegate; was born in Livingstone
county, N. Y., 1816; came to state in 1854 and to county in
i858; was married December, 1850, to Sarah Fritz.

William Chap.man: lives near Kerbyville; is a stock
grower; was born in Devonshire, England; came to state in
1850 and to county in 1853; was married May, 1849, to Mary
A. How (deceased June, 188I.) Children, William H.
(drowned at Corvallis, 1875), Mary A. (deceased), Arthur J.,
Annie A. (deceased) and Thomas H.

Andrew J. Cook: lives on Applegate; is a farmer and
stock grower; post-office, Applegate; was born in Blunt
county, Tenn. ; came to state in 1852 and to county in 1861.

M. D. L. Crooks: lives on Deer creek; is a farmer; post-
office, Kerbyville; was born in Wayne county, Kentucky, in
1S29: came to state and county in 1854; married March,
1864, to Mary J. Ditmars. Children, Nora, Annie, Joseph-
ine (deceased), Francis M., Tletha, Sophia and Lenora J.

Isaac Custei;: lives on Applegate; is a farmer and car-
penter: post-office, i\Iurphy; was born in Champagne county,
Ohio, in 1830; came to state and county in iS7l; was mar-
ried November 28, 1852, to Abigail Hayes. Children, Laura,
Lydia J., Alice M., Franklin (deceased), Alonzo, Ida A.,
John W. and Boardman H.

Charles Duncan: lives near Kerbyville; is a farmer; was
born in Indiana county, Penn., 1S45; came to state in i860
and to county in 1866; married April 24, 1867, to Sophia

Horner. Children, Ida M., Ella A., George, Fred, Sophia,
Charles and infant.

Thomas F. Floyd: lives on Illinois river; is a farmer;
post-office, Kerbyville; was born in Chemung county, N. Y.;
came to state and county in 1855; married July 4, i860, to
Julia M. Briggs (deceased). Children, George E., Lucy, Har-
riet and Thomas F.

SOMERVILLE FoRBES: lives on Althouse creek; is a miner;
post-office, Althouse; was born on an English vessel off the
coast of England; came to state in 1870 and to county in 1872.

John Goings: lives on Illinois river; is a farmer; post-
office, Kerbyville; born in Memphis, Tenn., in 1S37; came to
state in 1852 and to county in 1S54; married first time, July,
1858, to Phebe Goodwin (deceased); second time in 1866 to
Mary Yarbrough. Children, Sarah J., Amanda E.. JohnG.,
Alice (deceased), James T. (deceased), Serelda J. (deceased),
Mary E. (deceased) and George F.

Lewis Haves: lives on Applegate: isafarmer; post-office.
Murphy; was born in Cuyhoga county, Ohio; came to state
in 1852; to county in 1865; was married October 18, '853, to
Charlotte Abbott. Children, Rachel, Nancy E., Francis M.,
Jefferson, Joanna, David O. Samuel (deceased), William L.
and Ira E.

O. D. HoxiE: Died on Bear creek January, 1876,; was
born in Sandwich, Massachusetts, in 1806; went to Jackson
county, in 1S52; married in 1S25, to Eliza Stevens. Children,
Joseph, Hannah, George W., James M., Charles H., Obe-
diah and Abram.

Dr. D. S. HoltoN: lives in Kerbyville: is a physician;
was born in Monroe county. New York, in 1829; came to
state in September, 1852; to county in 1803; married Sep-
tember, 1852, to Nancy M. Pea (deceased 1863). Children,
Josie (Nickerson), James D. and Ira E. Dr.' Holton was
assistant surgeon ist Oregon cavalry, in IS61; was elected
senator from Josephine county in 1S60: was a member of the
Oregon territorial legislature of 185S.

Daniel Hunt: lives on Illinois river; is a farmer and
carpenter; post-office, Kerbyville; was born in 1827; came to
state and county in 185S.

Charles Hughes: lives in Kerbyville; has been clerk of
county twelve years; was born in County Armagh, Ireland;
came to state in 1S64; to county in 1866; married August
14, 1842, to Margaret Hughes. Children, Alice J., Charles,
James, Mary A. and Florence M. Mr. Hughes is one of the
most prominent men in the county.

James Hughes: lives in Kerbyville; is a liquor dealer; was
born in St. Louis, Mo., in 1849; came to state in 1864, and
to county in 1866; married August; 1873, to Lizzie E. Baine.
Children, Margaret E., Rosetta A. and James W.

Alex M. Jess: lives on Applegate creek, near Wilderville;
is a farmer; was born in Oneida county. New York; came to
state and county in l8S4; was married April, 1864, to Martha
Moore. Children, Belle, Sherman, Alexander, Willie, Lot-
tie and Malvina.

Alex N. Jones: lives at Wilderville; is hotel keeper and
post master; was born in Knox county, Ohio, in 1830; came
to State in 1867, and to county in 1S80; married September I,
1S67, to Hannah Hoxie. One child, Edwina.

Henry Kelley: lives on Sucker creek; is a farmer; post-
office, Kerbyville; was born in Morris county, N. J.; came
to state and county in 1852; was married December, 1870,
to Sarah E. Bowman. Children, Charles and Edwin.

J. L Knioht: died February 9, 1S84. at his residence and
hotel on Slate creek; was born in New York in 1830; came to
state and county in 1S71; was married September 25, 1867, to
Louisa Austin. Children, Ida M. (deceased), Frank E., Jen-
nie M. and May. Mrs. Knight is conducting the hotel.

Joh.n T. Layton: lives on Applegate; owner of Faris
Gulch mines; post-office, Applegate: was born in Lincoln-
shire, England; came to state in 1851, and to county in 1852;
has followed trading and mining since 1851 in Jackson antl
Josephii

George \V. Lewis; lives on Applegate; is a fruit and
vegetable grower; post-office, Murphy; was born in Linn
county, Mo., 1842; came to state in 1852, and to county in
1878; married Mary C. Sears, August, 1865. Children, Wil-
liam H. (deceased), Harry L., Viola, May and James.

George S. Mathewson: lives on Sucker creek; is a
farmer; post-office, Kerbyville; was born in Wayne county.
New York; came to state and county in 1855; married, De-
cember 7, 1869, to Sarah Hatcher. Children, Harriet E.,
Annie E. (deceased), and George. Mr. Mathewson is one of
Josephine's largest land owners.

Joseph S. McFadden: lives on Applegate; is a farmer;
post-office, Murphy; was born in Fairfield county, Ohio;
came to state in 1872, and to county in 1876: married June
3, 1880, to Kate Kubli. Children, James and Joseph.

James Neely: lives on Jump-off-Joe creek; is a farmer
■ and stock raiser; post-office, Grant's Pass; was born in Mor-
gan county, Mo., 1837; came to state in 1854 and to county
in 1855: married, July ,5 1877, to Elizabeth Gibson. Chil-
dren, Florence M., Evert A. and Edward C.

Lawrenxe E. Nelson: lives on Althouse creek; is a
miner; was born in Calmer, Sweden; came to state and county
in 1870.

William M. Miller: lives on Applegate creek; is a
farmer; post-office, Applegate; was born in Galoway county,
Mo., in 1829; came to state in 1852, and to county in 1855;
was married January 15, 1854, to Mary A. Miller (deceased
July 29, 1880). Children, Corilda, Frederick, John, Lewis,
Francis, Sarah, Viretta, Arininta, Nancy, Mollie and Wil-
liam E.

Peter Miller: lives on Sucker creek; is a sawyer; post-
office, Kerbyville; was born in Morgan county, Ohio; came
to state and county in 1856.

James P. Mills: lives on Deer creek; is a farmer; post-
office, Kerbyville; is a native of New York; came to state
and county in 1857.

Fra.nk M. Nickerson: lives in Kerbyville; is county
clerk; was born in Litchfield, Medina county, Ohio; came to
state in 1876; married, December 24, 1878, to Jo.sie A. Hol-
ton. Children, Sherman L., Frank and Earl D.

T. G. Patterson: lives on Sucker creek; is a farmer and
teamster; post-office, Kerbyville; born in Howard county,
Mo.; came to state and county in 1867; married, July 3, 1876,
to Jessie Fiester. Only child, Edward D., died February, 1884.

William Pernoll: lives on Applegate; is a merchant and
farmer; post-office, Applegate; was born in Hamburg, Ger-
many; married, July 8, 1876, to Nancy Miller. Children,
John W., Martin V., Lillie H. and infant.

A. H. Platter: lives at Alehouse on Democrat gulch; post
office Althouse; is a miner: was born in Miama county, Ohio;
came to state in 1852 and to county in 1854.

M. Ryder: lives in Kerbyville; is sheriff of Josephine

county; also liotel proprietor; was born in New York c.ty;
married, March 3, 1873, 'o Mrs. Elenor Lind. Children,
Mary S., Elenor and Ralph. Mrs. Lind had three children at
time of last marriage, Elmer, Florence and Alfred.

George Si.mmons: lives at Waldo; is proprietor of mine;
born in Muskingum county,. Ohio, in 1832; came to state and
county in 1855, married, June, 1859, to Jane Revenaugh;
Only child, Ella.

Henry Smith: lives at Wolf creek; is a merchant, came
to California in 1850, to state in 1853 and to county in 1858;
was born December 7, 1S20, in Wyoming valley, Luzerne
county, Penn. ; was married in 1844 to Phoebe Smith. Mr.
Smith is a large land owner, having 1,800 acres.

Dr. James SpencE: lives on Sucker creek; is a physician;
post-office, Kerbyville; was born in Yorkshire, England; came
to the state and county in 1874; married. May, 1874,10 Su-
sannah Higgins. Children, Mary A., Laura E. and Eva L.
(deceased), James C. and William C, living.

Henry Thcjrn ton: lives at Fort Hays; is a farmer and
stock grower; post office Kerbyville; was born at LaFayelte
Ind., l83.''; came to state in 1853, and to county in 1874;

James Turner: lives on Sucker creek; is a miner and
blacksmith; post office is Althouse; was born in Buckingham
county, Virginia; came to state in 1851, and tocounty in 1S53.
married June 25, 1865, to Fenie Haines. Children, Charles
H., Kate S., George L., Fred L., John W. and Alice F.
Mr. Thornton was first treasurer of Umpqua county.

L, Vance: lives at Wilderville; is a merchant; post office
Wilderville; was born in Todd county, Ky. ; came to state in
1865, and to county in 1869.

Alexander White: lives on Sucker creek; is a farmer;
post office Kerbyville; was born in Hillsdale county, Michigan;
came to state in 1852, and to county in 1855; was married
October 29, 1S77, to Sarah E. Tycer. Children, May,
Fredrick C. (deceased), and William R.

Samuel W. White: lives on Sucker creek; is a farmer;
post office Kerbyville; was born in Livingston county, N. Y., in
1812; came to state in 1852, and to county in 1854; married
November 5, 1837, to Cynthia Corbus. Children, Job
(deceased), Alexander, Janett, Hariett A. and James R.

Jacob Wimer: lives on Applegate creek; is a miller and
proprietor of a mine; post office Murphy; was born in Hunt-
ington county, Penn., 1816; came to state in 1863, and to
county in 1867; married July 16, 1835, to Catherine Markle.
Children, Mary A., Adam A., George W., Catherine, Wil-
liam J., J. Henry (deceased) and James A.

Henry York: lives on Applegate creek; is a farmer and
stock grower; post office Aj^plegate; was born in Clay county,
Ky., in 1834; came to state in 1S52, and to county in 1854;
was married July 4, 1862, to Sarah E. Slagle. Children,
William B., Martha A., Ida, Albeit S., Joseph S. Emily,
.\lice (deceased), Francis M., Bertha M. (deceased) and Jacob.

DOUGLAS COUNTY.

Henry A. Adams: lives on Missouri bottom; post-office,
^lyrtle creek; is a farmer and stock grower; came to the state
in 1850 and to the county in 1851; was born in Blunt county,
Tcnn., August 29, 1828; was married October 22, 1854, to
Jestcnn Wright; was again married, April 6, 1880, to Mrs.
jane Cornutt.

Mrs. Sekrena Adams: was born in Park county, Indiana,
March 4, 1840; crossed the plains with her father, John
Sutherlin, in 1850; was married to Mack Adams in 1852, be-
ing only twelve years old; lives on South Deer creek, nine
miles east of Roseburg; post-office, Roseburg.

William S. Ada.ms: lives eight miles south of Roseburg
on Robert's creek; post-office, Roseburg; was born in Doug-
las county, Oregon, June 31, 1853; is a farmer and stock
raiser; formerly engaged in teaching school; was married to
.Sarah Willis, April 11, 1880.

Solomon Ady: lives on South Myrtle creek; is a farmer;
came to state and county in 1859; was born September 19,
1826, in Jefferson county, Kentucky; married, October 26,
1862, to Mary J. Ireland.

John Aiken: lives in S.ilem, .Marion county, Oregon; is a
farmer; came to state in 1S47 and to county in 1S49; was
born in Smith county, Tenn., in 1861.

.Vmiert Applegate: one of the earliest Oregon born citi-
zens; was born at the " Old Mission " near Salem, December

6, 1843; '^ ^ farmer; lives near Drain; c.ime to Douglas
county in 1850; married Nancy J. Johnson, February 17,
1869. Children, Mercy D., Nellie M., Gr.int, Charles W.,
Lulu B. and Lucy I.

Enoch P. Anderson: lives on Deer creek; is a farmer
post-office; Roseburg; was born near Fayetteville, Ark., .-Vpril
19, 1845; came to stale and county in 1S53.

Tlios. .\pplegate: lives near Yoncalla; is a (.inner and
saw mill proprietor; was horn in Polk county, Oregon, -■Aug-
ust 21, 1S47; W.-IS married to Hortense Reed, September 24,
1875. Children, Agnes, Carl, Beatrice and infant.

John .\pplegate: lives ne.ar Yoncalla; came to Oregon in
1843 and to county in 1850; was born March 12, 1842, in St.
Clair county. Mo.; was married to Miss Laura Bridges. Chil-
dren, Annie, Lola, Bertha and Charles.

Milton Applegate: lives at Yoncalla; is a farmer; was
born in Douglas county in 1854; was married, February 17,
1872, to Sarah M. Tracy. Children, Adalaine, Arita and
infant.

Francis Archambeau: lives in French settlement; post-
office. Looking-glass; is a farmer and stock grower; was born
in Canada, December 17, 1823; c.ime to state in 1S47 and to
county in 1851; was married, December 28, 1850, to Joseph-
ine Birdcn.

J. T. Arant: lives in French scttlemeni: is 3 farmer .ind

510

APPENDIX.

stock grower; was born April 19, 1S23, in Davison county,
Tenn. ; came to coast in 1S02 and to county in 1S53; was
married in 1844 to Mary J. Enimitt. Children, eight boys and
four girls; deceased, three boys and two girls.

Vincent L. Arkixgton: lives en Civil Bend on Umpqua
river; is a merchant and post-master; was born September 12,
1845, in De Kalb county, Mo.: came to coast in 1851 and to
county in 1S52; married, April 22, 1877, to Miss Sidna C.
Anderson.

J.\MEsM. Arrington: lives in Civil Bend; was born in
Livingston county, Ky. ; April 7, 1S14; was married to Kittie
A. Halpain, March 14, 1841; is a farmer and surveyor.

Lewis Ash: lives on Cow creek; post-office, Canyonville;
is a farmei; came to state in 1861 and to county in 1878; was
born January 7, 1857, in Bedford county, Penn. ; married,
Septembers, 1875, '° I''^ Harmon.

Tho.mas Banks: lives near Cinnabar mines; is a black-
smith; post-office, Oakland; was born August 2, 1819, in
Hawkins county, Tenn.; came to state and county in 1853;
married August 28, 1850, to Catherine Davis. • Children, Isa-
bel, John and Sarah.

Castillo Ball: lives in Roseburg; is a lawyer and editor
and proprietor of Independent; was born in Jefferson county,
Ohio, in 1848; came to coast in 1872, to state and county in
J876.

T. R. Baldwin: lives on South Myrtle creek; is a peddler:
came to state and county in 1879; was born March 4, 1840, in
Decatur county, Indiana; married Martha M. Ross, October
6, 1866.

Smith Bailey: is proprietor of the Eighteen-Mile House,
on the Coos Bay wagon road, eighteen miles west of Rose-
burg; was born in Ohio, in 1S35; came to Oregon, in':i875,
and to this county in 1882; is a farmer and stock grower;
married P. N. Belieu, in 1855.

Timothy Barnard: l.ves on Calapooia; post-office, Oak-
land; is a farmer and stock grower; was born in Jo Davies
county, Illinois, May 10, 1830; came to state in 1850, and to
county in 1851; was elected representative to the legislature
in 1880: married to Margaret Harper October 20, i860.
Children, LiUie D., Byron L., Elmer E., James M., Cole D.
and Elizabeth A.

James H. Be.\ne: lives on North Myrtle creek: is a stock
grower; came to state in 1S50. and to county in 1S51; was
born in Preble county, (Jhi... November I, 1830; was mar-
ried to Miss Harriet Wright, September II, 1853.

Wm. F. Benjamin: lives in Roseburg; is register of the U.
S. land office; came to state and county in 1859; was born
April 2, 1827.

Charles Bealman: lives at Canyonville; is a stock
grower; came to state and county in i8s7; was born in Berne,
Switzerland, in 1831.

A. M. Beaty: lives on Cow creek; post-office, Riddle; is
a farmer; came to stale in 1S58, and to county in 1866; was
born January 12, 1837, in Champagne county, Ohio.

Philip Benedict: lives at Roseburg; is an undertaker;
came to state and county in 1874; was born Januaiy I, 1838,
in Harrison county, Ohio; was married to Elizabeth Bu-
chanau. Children, Oscar N., Emma T-, Cora L., Ida M.
and James E.

Louis Belkii.s; lives in Roseburg; is a watchmaker and
dealer in variety goods, &c.;!sa native of France; came to
America in 1854; to the state in 1S56, and to the county in
1872; was married April i, 1859, to .Miss F. M. Krieschbaum.
Was again married in 1872, to Miss Belle Dorr, who died in
1875. Again married in 1876, to Miss Lizzie M.«ilda Shone.
Is owner of valuable coal mines in Douglas county.

Simpson Beckley: lives at Drain; is a hotel keeper; came
to state and county in 1874; was born January 25, 1845, in
Indiana; was married to Mary M. Major. Children, Laura
A., Sarah E., Major S., Eveline, Henry E., Ada L. and
Edna.

Frank W. Benson: lives in Roseburg; is present county
school superintendent, and teacher by profession; came to
state in 1864 and to county in 1880; was born in Santa Clara,
Cal., March 20, 1S58.

Myron Bidweli.: lives near Drain ; occupation cabinet
maker and painter; wasbdrn in Ransom county, Ohio, August
10, 1S34: came to state in iS^V. married to i:ilen Bonner
October 20, 1864. ChiMixii. William L.. Emilv A., Addie,
Maggie J., John M., Nor.i .in, I Iri.na A.

Ja.mes E. Bllndell: li\c> on Cow creek; post-office.

Canyonville: is a school teacher; came to state in 1S65, and
to county in 1871: was born May 7, 1843, in Bridgeport, Ct.;
married .Slay i, 187 1, to Susan A. Thrush.

Edward Bland: lives in Canyonville; was born Feb. 23,
1864, in Douglas county, Oregon.

Samuel P. Blakely: lives on North Umpqua; is a
farmer: post-office, Mt. Scott; was born in Wayne county.
New York, August 24, 1831; came to state and county in
1852; was married to Matilda Mallard, April 13, 1865.

W. R. Bi.evins: lives in Canyonville; is a butcher and
farmer; came to state in 1843, and to county in 1878; was born
October 16, 1842, in Polk county. Mo.; married September
I, 1870, to Louisa Poteet.

OiEY Boon: was born in Franklin county, Va., Dec. 9,
1818; crossed the plains in 1849; came to Douglas county in
1S51; was married in 1862 to Cintha Parris; is a farmer and
stock raiser, and owns a large farm nine miles southeast of ■
Roseburg; post-off.ce, Roseburg.

John S. Bonebrake: resides on South Deer creek; is a
farmer and stock grower; was born in Fountain county, Ind.,
in 1830; came to state in 1852, and to county in 1864.

IsA.AC Boyl: resides near Canyonville; is a farmer; was
born in Taswell county, Va., March 24, 1818; arrived in state
and county in 1851; married to Phoebe Thrush December 15,
1859.

Daniel J. Bollenbaugh: lives near Canyonville; is a
farmei and miner; came to state in 1852, and to county in
1854; was born April 9, 1831, in Fairfield county, Ohio;
married October 30, 1853, to Katherine Swartz.

J. Brock: lives near Wilbur; is a farmer and stock raiser;
was born in Madison county, Ohio, March 10, 1821; came to
state and county in 1866; married to Delilah Baldwin, de-
ceased, March 26, 1843. One child, Cowen B. Mr Brock
was again married March 10, 1866, to Eletha Ridenour.
Has five children by second wife, Eliza, Lury and Lucy, twins,
Daly and Ethel.

John T. Bryan, Jr.: lives at Myrtle creek; is a jeweler;
came to state and county in 1874; was born in Logan county,
III., August 24, 1858.

T. V. Bradley: lives at Nonpareil; is a farmer and stock
grower; post-office, Oakland; born December 3, 1829, in Cal-
oway county. Mo.; came to state and county in 1852: mar-
ried March 22, 1857, to Miss Cynthia S. Tipton. Children,
William D., Cynthia J., Rosa, Viola S., Benjamin L., James
P., Ira R. and Lillie V.

A. F. Brown: lives in Oakland; is a merchant and town
proprietor; was born in Stratford, county, N. IL, August 31,
1836; came to state and county in 1859; married in Boston,
November 9, 1854, to Miss Ada Lamkin. Children, Minnie
A. (deceased), Edgar L. (deceased), Frederick A., William
H., Charles H. and Joe H.

Thomas Brown: lives 7 miles northwest of Roseburg; is
a farmer and stock grower; was born March 25, 1812, near
Elgin, Scotland; married Miss Sarah Flett. Children, James,
George, Maria, John, Thomas, Frank, May and Agnes; came
to state in 1847,' and '« county in 1851.

Mrs. Nancy Browning: lives on North Myrtle creek;
was born in Canton, Fulton countv. 111., February 19, 1834;
was married January 24, 1853, to Dr. E. G. Browning; came
to state in 1852 and to county in 1855.

RuFUS BtrrLER: was born in Massachusetts in 1812; came
to this coast in 1849; and arrived in this county in 1S50;
w^as married first time to Miss Henrietta Jones, and the sec-
ond time, in 1S53, to Miss Sarah Wells. " Two children were
born by his first wife, and eleven by his second wife. He ilied
of paralysis November 9, 1883.

Thomas B. Burnett: lives in Round Prairie, ten miles
south of Roseburg; post-office, Roseburg; is a farmer and
stock grower; was born in Douglas county, Oregon, Septem-
ber 10, 185S.

Leonard Buell: lives in Looking-glass valley; is a farmer
and mail contractor; was born July 4, 1813, in Genessee
county, New York; came to coast in 1849, to Oregon in 1852,
and to county in 1854: married March 13, 1836, to Julia A.
Giles. Children, four girls and eight boys; one son deceased.
G. A. Burt: lives at Yoncalla; is a farmer and town pro-
prietor; was born in Bristol county, Mass., in 1827; came to
state and county in 1850; was married November 27, 1852, to
Ellen .\pplegate. Children, Perit H., John, Henry, Fosco,
Lucy and Sue.

James D. Burnett: lives on Round Prairie; is a farmer

APPENDIX.

511

and stock raiser; came to state in 1850, and to county in 1852;
was l>orn March 12, 1822, in Blunt county, Tenn. ; was mar-
ried to Margaret Love. Children, Martha (deceased), Fran-
cis (deceased), Mary, Lydia, Thomas B.. Lucy and Virginia C.
(deceased).

D. .S. K. BtiiCK: lives at Myrtle Creek; is a hotel keeper;
came to state in 1872, and to county in 1876; was born m
Scotland, in 1827; married Janet Brown, July 9, 1852.

Linus Biishnell; lives on Ten-Mile creek; post-office,
Ten-Mile; came to state in 1852, and to county in 1854: was
born in Greene county. New York, March 23, 1815; was
married October 12, 1842.

James Byro.v: lives on .South Ten-Mile creek; post-olifice,
Ollala; is a farmer; came to state and county in 1868; was
born October 18, 183S, in Ireland; was married to Mary
Cloake, January 26, 1S71.

O. K. P. Cain: lives on Cow creek; post-office, Riddle;
is a miner; was born November 29, 1821, in Niagara county.
New York; married Cyntlia J. Nichols, March 15, 1858;
came to state in 1851 and to county in 1873.

George J. Callahan: lives in French settlement; post-
office. Looking-glass; is a farmer; was born in Boone county,
" "' No-

Mo., May 7,
vember 29, i

JOH.N G.
farmer; canit

1*50;

?d to Sophronia Holri

11! y in 1864.

■ on South Myrtle creek; is a

>3; was born in Lane county,

iried Annie Lewis, November

Oregon, Augu
30, 1882.

W. K. Caldwell: lives in Cole's valley; is a carpenter;
came to this coast in 1850, to state in 1S59 and to county in
1S6S; was born in Paris. Bourbon county, Ky., August 22,
1831; was married to Ella Perkins. Children, Alwilda E.
(deceased), Horace (deceased), Edgar M. (deceased), Robert
E., Ida .\I. and William B.

W. H. Caldwell: lives in Canyonville; is a farmer and
butcher; came to state in 1857 and to county in 1867; was
born February 17, 1849, in Andrew county. Mo. ; married. Oc-
tober 25, 1877, to Martha A. Jennings.

JOH.N Canady: lives in Oakland; is a farmer; was born.
September 15, 1841, in Ohio; came to state in 1852 and to
county in 1854.

C. D. Cary: lives in Camas valley; came to state in 1865
and to county in 1874; was born in Madison county, Iowa,
July 7, 1854.

Joseph W. Carlon: lives in Roseburg; is proprietor of
livery stable; came to state in i860, and to county in 1864;
was born July 12, 1837, in Lawrence county, Penn. ;was
married to Nancy Stevenson. Children, Hannah, Ernest,
William E., Joseph R., Belle and Bertha.

John H. Cakier: lives in Looking-glass valley; is a
farmer; was born July 30, 1830, in Washington county. East
Tenn.; came to state in 1852 and to county in 1859; married
F"ebruary 22, 1852, to Eveline Etherton.

Sa.muei. C.4SEBEER: was born June 8, 1824, in Wayne
county, Ohio; came to state in 1852 and to county in 1853;
was married to Jemima Brown, October 26, 1847; was a
farmer; lived in French settlement, where he died in 1870.

John L. Casebeek: lives in French settlement; post-office,
Roseburg; is a teacher and farmer; was born February 22,
1862, in Douglas county, Oregon.

John Catching: lives on Cow creek; post-office, Riddle;
is a farmer and miner; came 10 state in 1845 •">"'' '" county in
1851; was born September 18, 1820, in Kentucky; was mar-
ried May 9, 1847, to Margaret Wilson.

R. L. Cavkti: lives seventeen miles east of Roseburg;
post-olfice, Roseburg: is a stock raiser; came to state in 1858
and to county in 1S59: was born in Tennessee in 1S36.

James F. Chahwick: lives near Wilbur; is a farmer; came
to state and county in 1879; was born in England, April 7,

1837; married in 1868

Joseph Chami'Acne
er; was born August 10,
state and county in 185 1

Agnes Foran. One child
lives in French settlement ; is a farm-
1825, in Eastern Canada; came to
married, February 27, 185", to Ann

.\. E. Champagne: lives in Roseburg; is proprietor of
Cosmiipoliian hotel; was born June 15, 1836, near Montreal,
Cana<la; was married to Nancy R. Bradley; came io slate
and county in 1867.

William R. Chenowkth: lives si.\ miles northeast of
Roseburg; is a farmer and gardener; was born, August 2,
1826, in I'ike county, Ohio; married, .May 29, 1853, to .Maria

-McKinney. Children, Joseph, and James (deceased).
Came to state in 1S50 and to county in 1852.

James Chenoweth: lives in Oakland; is a merchant; was
born in De Kalb county, Missouri, September 22, 1850; came
to state in 1852 and to county in 1803; wa-s elected to the
legislature in 1878.

Joseph L. Churchill: lives in Cole's valley; is a farmer;
and stock raiser; post-office, Umpqua Ferry; was born in
Columbia county. New York, in 1840; came to state and
county in li;66; married Miss Willia A. Emmitt, June I,
1873. Only child, Frank.

Jesse Clayton: lives on Calapooia; is a farmer and stock
raiser; post-office, Oakland; was born, October 16, 1828, in
Perry county, Ohio; came to state in 1847; was in Cayuse
war; married Mrs. L. E. Heckathorn, August 10, 1869.
Children, Lizzie, Susie, Jesse R., Franklin and Maud.

Thomas Coats: lives on Ten-mile creek; post-office, Ten-
mile; came to state in 1852 and to county in 1853; was born
in Louisville, St. Lawrence county. New York, September 3,
1823; married Caroline Carter, December 3, 185 1.

C. F. Colvin: lives near Drain; is a lumberman and stock
grower; came to state in 1852 and to county in 1858; married
Caroline Zufult, January, 1843. Children, Lydia F., Wil-
liam F. and Sarah J. (deceased).

Joseph Comelison: lives on South Myrtle creek; is a
farmer and stock grower; came to state in 1850 and to county
in 1853; was born July 10, 1829, in Coffee county, Tenn.;
married. May, 1851, to Mary J. Adams.

A. W. Co.mpton: lives in Roseburg; was born October 10,
1S29, in Maryland; came to this coast in 1848, to state in
1849 and to county in 1865; Mrs"T Compton has a dress-mak-
ing establishment in Roseburg.

Henky Conn, Sr: lives in French settlement si.x miles
west of Roseburg; is a farmer and breeder of fine stock; was
born October 12, 1816, in Lycoming county, Penn.; came to
state and county in 1854; was married, February 28, I838, to
Mary J. Stultz.

Plinn Cooper: lives six miles south of Roseburg; post-
office, Roseburg; is a farmer and stock raiser; was born in
Es.se.x county. New York. December 19, 1836; came to state
and county in 1857; was married to Hannah E. Ivelly in i860.

James Co.X: lives eight miles east of Roseburg; is a farmer
and stock grower; post-office, Roseburg; was born in Whitley
county, Ky., March 21, 1815; came to state in 1852 and to
county in 1853.

Noah Cornutt: lives in Riddle; is a farmer and stock
grower; came to state in 1853 and to county in i860; was
born February, 5, 1836, in (jrayson county, Virginia.

Augustus O; Co>roN: lives in Looking-gla.ss valley, one
mile nortlie,i-i ~r iIi. •.\"j^:-: post-office. Looking-glass; is a
farmer; wa^ 1 1 < ^o county. New York, in 1844;

came to stale ,1^^ • county in 1857; married, April

2, 1871, to Mi-- 1 n;i,i, Mirvin.

T. J Critesek: lives in Roseburg; is proprietor of flour-
ing mills; came to state and county in 1S63; was born in
Marion county, Indiana, January 25, 1845; 's married. Chil-
dren, Lottie, Walter, Thomas and Lillie.

Francis M. Criteser: lives in French settlement, ten
miles west of Roseburg; is a farmer; was l>orn .March 13, 1840,
in Fulton county, Ind.; came to this co.-ist in 1854 and to
county in l866; married, June, 1859, to Mary Spray. Chil-
dren, six boys and one girl; one son deceased.

William P. Day: lives in Camas valley; is a farmer ami
stock grower; came to state in 1845, and to county in 1851;
was born at Fort Edward, Washington county, N. Y., .-Vugust
26, 1822; w.as married in 1S51, to Fhebe Culver, the family of
six children are all decea.sed.

-Michael Dean: lives on Cow creek; post office is Riddle;
is a farmer; came to .state in 1S65, and to county in 1866; was
born December 10, 1833 in Jackson county, -Mo.; w.is married
February 3, 1858, to Margaret Dyer.

W. H. B. Deardoi"!': lives on Camas swale; is a farmer
and stock grower; post office Oakland; was born .March 28,
1828, in Union county, Ind.; came to state and county in
1853; was married March 20, 1853, to Georgia .\. H.-irl.
Children, .Albert G., Josephine, .Marcena, Isabella, Horace,
John W. and Katie.

George Dement: lives on Myrtlccreek; is a farmer; came
to stale and county in 1858; was born February 2, 1S35, '"
Randolph, III.; was married June lO, 1S65, 10 Eliz.ilieth

APPENDIX.

James M. Dillard: lives in Civil Bend on Umpqua river;
is a farmer and stock grower; was born September 14, 1S42,
in Greene count)'. Mo.; came to state in 1850, and to county
in 1851; married April 17, 1864, to Mary E. Co.x.

John Dillard: lives at Dillard station; post office Rose-
burg; is a farmer and stock grower; born August 16, 1813 in
Kno.v county, Ky. ; came to state in 1850, and to county in
1852; was married January 22. 1S32, to Jane Martin.

Raphael B. Dixo.\: lives on Deer creek, eight miles east
of Roseburg; is a farmer and stock grower; post office Rose-
biirg; was born in Andrew county. Mo., November 12, 1847;
croised the plains in 1852, and came to this county in 1853;
married to Miss Nancy M. Li\'ingston, May 1873.

William G. B. Dixon: lives north of Roseburg; is a stock
grower; came to state in 1852, and to county in 1853; was
born in Fulton county, 111., August 22, TS44; married Septem-
ber 12, 1878.

Samuel H. Dodson: lives twelve miles southeast of
Roseburg; post office Roseburg; is a farmer and stock raiser;
was born in Missouri, December 21, 1849: came to siate and
county in 1852; was married to Martha Hervey, November
29. 1877.

\V. B. Drake: lives on Myrtle creek, and runs an express;
came to state and county in 1875; was t'O"'" •" Penn., February
22, 1831; married December 6, lS66, to Mrs. Francis Ritchey.

William P. Dunham: lives on Deer creek; is a stock
raiser; post office Roseburg; was born in Warren county. Mo.,
September 16, 1847; came to state in 1864, and to county in

H. Dyer: lives at Myrtle creek; is a merchant; was born
in Douglas county. Or., May 7, 1856.

Jefferson Dyer: lives on Cow creek; post office is Riddle;
is a farmer; came to state in 1865, and to county in 1866; was
born March 18, 1818, in White county, Tenn.; married
November 6, 1842, to Mrs. Jane Lovelady.

Moses T. Dyer: lives on South Myrtle creek; is a farmer;
came to state and county in 1852; was born March 14, 1819,
in Madison county, Vermont; was married December 1848, to
Sarah Ross.

Hardy Elliff: lives eleven miles south of Canyonville;
post office Galesville; is the largest farmer and land owner in
the county having 3640 acres of land; was born December 7,
1822, in Sumner county, Tenn.; came to California in 1849,
and to state and county in 1851. Mr. Elliff was the first
settler in Cow creek valley, July 2, 1852.

Joseph Ensley: lives on Calapooia; is a farmer and stock
grower; post office Oakland; was born in Montgomery county,
Ohio, April 20, 1824; came to state in 1852, and to county in
1855; married May 14, 1844, to Eliza A. Knutt. Children,
Samuel, Rosa J., Henry, Abram, Sarah, Aleck, James, John
and Washington. William, Grant, Susana, Joseph and
Christopher are deceased.

Allen A. Engles: resides on the east fork of the North
Umpqua river; is a farmer and stock raiser; post office Patter-
son's Mill; was born in Independence county, Arkansas, March
4, 1832; arrived in state and county in 1853; married Char-
lotte Simmons July 11, 1858, who lived only a short time, and
was married a second time to Mary McDonal, October 3, 1S61,
■who, also, has since died.

Edwin A. Estes: lives in Drain; has a variety store and is
postmaster, and agent for Wells, Fargo & Go's. e.xpress; was
born in Lee county, Iowa, August 13, 1846; came to Oregon
in 1S50, and to county in 1852; was married to Flora Clark
June4, 1874. Children, Edwin, William G., Lenora and infant.

P. G. EuB.\NKS: lives at Camas swale; is a farmer and
stock grower; post office Oakland; came to state in 1852, and
ito county in 1854; was born in Cooper county. Mo., Septem-
ber 26, 1838; was married to Sarilda Young (deceased), Octo-
ber 1862, by whom, had two children. Was again married
January 1877, to Polly Sutherlin who had three children, all
deceased.

S. D. Evans, Sr. : formarly of Cole's valley; was born in
Madison county, Ohio; arrived in this state and county in 1853;
was married March 2, 185 1, to Louisa A. Thompson; S. D.
Evans, Jr., their only child was born November 6, 1861; Mr.
Evans was killed by Indians August I, 1861, in Northern Cal-
ifornia.

Samuel D. Evans, Jr.: lives at Umpqua Ferry in Cole's
valley; post office Umpqua Ferry; is a farmer; came to state
and county in 1863; was born in Washoe county, Nevada,
November 6, 1861 .

David Fate; resides on Day's creek, near Canyonville;
is a farmer; was born in Perry county, Ohio, July, 1823;
came to this stale in 1852 and to county in 1853; married
Mary A. Ward in Ohio, September 15, 1850.

Joshua Fawcett: lives on North Myrtle creek; is a
farmer and miner; came to state and county in :S68; was born
August 3, 1833, in Gallia county, Ohio; was married March
24, 1864 to Mrs. Nancy C. Sharp.

William Ferguson: lives in Camas valley; post-office,
Camas valley; is a saw mill proprietor; came to state and
county in 1879; was born in Canada in 1835.

George B. Finch: lives on South Deer creek; was born
in Hamilton county, Ohio, in 1820; is a farmer: came to
state in 1845 ^nd 'o county m 1850.

Adam Fisher: lives near Winchester; post-office, Rose-
burg; is a farmer and stock raiser; came to state in 1870 and
to county in 1871; was born February 15,1841, in Bavaria,
Germany; married Melissa Jones. Children, Emma, Ellen,
Chester and infant.

John Fisher: lives on Ten-Mile creek; post-office. Olalla,
is a farmer; was born May 22, 1828, in Germany; came to
state and county in 1855.

Judge J. S. Fitzhugh; lives in Roseburg; is a mer-
chant; was born August 27, 1833, in Morgan county, Illinois;
was married to Mary J. Flowers. Children, Josephs., Sam-
uel E. and Clinton C. Came to state and county in 1857.

Fred Floed: was born at . Winchester, Douglas county,
1859; is a merchant; is a son of the late Creed Floed, of
Roseburg.

Ferdi.n.\nd Fortin: was born in Quebec, Canada; came
to state and county in 1855; was married to Mary kidenour
October 12, i860; lives in Cole's valley; is a farmer; post-
office, Umpqua Ferry. Children, Josephine (deceased), Timothy
R., Louis S., Margaret A. (deceased), Harvey B. (deceased),
and Ferdinand.

Hon. James C. Fullerton; lives in Roseburg; is re-
ceiver of land office; was born December 16, 1848, in Butler
county, Ohio; came to state and county in 1853; was married
in 1874 to Miss Clara Bunnell, of Roseburg. One child.

F. M. Gabbert: lives at Myrtle creek; is a merchant; came
to state in 1855, and to county in 1858; was born in Cham-
pagne county. 111., January 14, 1832; married Miss Louisa
Browning in December, 1855.

Crawford Gaddis: lives in Roseburg; was born in Daven-
port, Delaware county. New York, in 1824; came to state in
1852, and to this county in 1868; was married October 24,
1861, to Miss S. A. Imbler. Children, Cassius, Winfield C,
Echo, Clyde and E. C. JNIr. Gaddis tilled the position of
county judge and treasurer, for several terms.

T. C. Gaunt: lives in Canyonville; is a saloon keeper;
born in Hopkins county, Kentucky, January 29, 1830; arrived
in state and county in 1865; married' Elizabeth Wright, April
4, 1871.

James P. Gilmore: lives nine miles south east of Roseburg;
post-office Roseburg; was born in Clay county. Mo., April 13,
1830; was married to Nancy Barnes in 1851; settled in Doug-
las county in 1852.

Francis M. Good: was born in Lee county, Va., January
24, 1831; came to state and county in 1853; was married to
Caroline Pierce, September 12, i860; lives at Cleveland; is
the postmaster, merchant and miller at that place. Children,
Mary A. (deceased), Nellie J., Martha, Edna, Addiel., Carrie
A., Francis O. and Daniel Garfield.

Jeptha Green: lives four miles south of Roseburg, on
Umpqua river; is a farmer and stock raiser; came to state in
1S52, and to county in 1853; was born in 1828, in Richland
county, Ohio. Children, OUie F., Ellis M. (deceased), Rosa
B., Robeit and Roscoe N.

Jesse Gross: lives at Drain; occupation wagon maker; born
March 8, 1S30, in Randolph county, Virginia; came to Oregon
in 1874, and to Douglas county in 1883; was married to Miss
Ellender Gates, September 9, 1852.

Benja.min J. Grubbe: lives in Wilbur; was born in Wash-
ington county, Virginia, November 26, 181 5; came to state
and county in 1850; married Ehzabeth Legget (deceased),
March 13, 1835. Children, Melissa J., Charlotte, Sarah A.,
George W., William, James B., Angeline, QuincyA.,
Emma (deceased), Luetta, Jeptha and Luella. Mr. Grubbe
was again married January 17, 1S71, to Mrs. Rachel Reed.
One child, Minnie.

George V. Gurnev: lives on Ten-mile creek; post-office.

513

Ten-mile; is a lumbennan; came to state and county in 185S;
wasL)oinin Lee county, Iowa, December 22, 1851; was mar-
ried January i, 1876, to Jane Fisher.

James VV. Gcjrney: lives on Ten-mile; post-office, Ten-
mile.

Charles M. Hall: lives in Oakland; is a tinner; was
born in Stark county, 111., March 4, 1850; came to state in
1853 and to county in 1S54; married December 19, 1875,
-S.irah .M. Bair. Children, Carrie and William.

John IIall: lives on Myrtle creek; is a farmer; came to
state and county in 1859; was born October 3, 1837, in
Champagne county, Ohio; married Susana Weaver, October
17, 1862.

RonKRT Hanev: lives near Elkton; is a farmer and stock-
raiser; was born September 12, 1833, in Chester county,
Penn.; came to slate and county in 1874; married Mary A.
DaviN. Children. Julia A., George W. (deceased), Charles
B., Oliver l>. (deceased), Fred T. (deceased), John E., Min-
nie B. and Nettie M.

Geori;e Hanan: died on his farm near Roseburg, May
1878; was a boot and shoe maker; was born in city of Cork,
Ireland, May S, 1822; came to co.ist in 1844 and to county in
1852. His widow, Eliza J. Hanan, resides on farm; post-of-
fice, Wilbur; was born in New Vork city, March 31, 1829;
came bi state in 1844 and to county in 1852.

William K. Han.va: lives in Oakland; is a stock grower
and butcher: came to state 'and county in 1853; was born
March 8, 1838, in Monitor county, Mo; married November
8, 186S, to Lucy M. Smith. Children, Eliza M., Robert K.,
Henrietta V., Carl F., Stella and infant.

Thomas Hancock: lives near Elkton; post-office, Elkton;
is a farmer and stock grower; came to state and county in
1850; was born in Australia in 1842.

James H. Hari'HAM: lives on Deer creek; is a stock
raiser and school teacher; post-office, Roseburg; was born in
Oregon city, Ogle county. 111., in 1847; came to state and
county in 1863.

Albert W. Hart: lives in Drain; is an engineer; was
born in Onandago county. New Vork, July 3, 1845; came to
state and county in 1874; married March 12, 1865, to Mary
A. Conway. One child, Rosa B.

John H. Hartin: lives on Looking-glass creek; post-
office, Civil Bend; is a farmer; was born June 30, 1829, in
Lincoln county, Tenn. ; came to state in 1850 and to county
in 1S53; married Miss Mary Flournoy, September 25, 1856.
Children, four.

Job Hatfield: lives near Scottsburg; is a farmer; was
born .\ugust 31, 1?I3, in Nova Scotia; came to state in 1849
and to county in 1850.

William S. Hervey: lives on Clark's Branch; is a farmer
and stock grower; came to state in 1864 and to county in
1S65: was born in Greene county, Tenn., July 3, 1833; mar-
ried November 20, 1856, to Miss H. Bowman.

J. 1'. Hervey: lives on Clark's Branch; post-office. Myrtle
creek; is a farmer and stock grower; came to state in 1S64
and to county in 1865.

N. Herington: lives near Myrtle creek; is a farmer;
came to state in 1879 and to county in 1880; was born in Van
Buren county, Iowa, August 5, 1851; married Samantha L.
Berry, June 6, 1880.

John' D. Hewitt: lives in Roseburg; is a photographer;
came to state and county in 1871; was born in Shelby county,
Ind., April 28, 1845; married Flora B. Imbler, of Douglas
county.

L. C. Hill: lives in Missouri bottom; post-office. Myrtle
creek; is a farmer; came to state and county in 1863; was
born in -Scioto county, Ohio, November I, 1S3S; married
Nancy A. (ilaze, January, 1878.

Fi.emmin(; R. Hill: is a farmer and stock grower; was
born in Overton county, Tenn., October 17, 1824; came to
state in 1844; was in Cayuse war; came to county in 1851;
was sheriff; has been hotel keeper since 1856; married .Miss
Delinda Reed .March, 1S53. Children, Mary A. and Fannie.

John T. Hinkle: lives ten miles east of Roseburg on
Deer creek; is a farmer and stock grower; post-office, Rose-
burg; was born in Perry county. Mo., July 29, 1837; was
married to .Sarah P. McNeal in 1861; came to slate in 1852
and to county in 1855.

Jesse M. Hockett: lives on Garden bottom; is a farmer
and school teacher; was born May 25, 1840, in Henry county,
Iowa; was educated at Willamette University; married Sarah

F. Booth, August 22, 1877. Children, Claud Gatch, Clyde
T., Guy and Jesse .M. .Mr. Hockett came to Oregon in 1S47
and to county in 1865.

M. B. Holmes: lives in Camas valley; is a stock raiser;
crime to state and county in 1854; was born in Herkimer
county, New Vork, January 8, 1824.

Dr. G. W. Hoover: lives m Roseburg; is a physician;
came to state in 1850 and to county in 185S; was born Octo-
ber 17, 1822, in Scott county, Kentucky; was married to
Huldah E. Williams. Children, Mary E., Lawrence E.,
William H. (deceased). Rose E., G W. Jr., Clarence M.,
Clara S. and Elmer V.

George Hoover: lives on Ten-mile creek; post-office,
Olalla; is a fanner and- stock grower; came to state and
county in 1866; was born in Holmes county, Ohio, January
2, 1832; married Eliza J. Peebles, December 20. 1853.

John M. Hovvaku': lives on -South Myrtle creek; is a
farmer; came to state and county in 1880; was born October
9, 1832, in Knox county. 111.; was married April 2, 1851, to
Nancy A. Bonner.

William Hutson: lives on Myrtle creek; is a farmer;
came to state and county in 1852; was born in Clay county,
Mo., January 22, 1813; married April 7, 1S44, to Louisa
Crowley.

James C. Hutchison: lives in Oakland; is a farmer and
stock grower; came to state and county in 1839; was born
October 10, 1835, in Henderson county. 111. ; was married to
.Sarah Copeland. Children, Myrtle, Arthur, Lucy, James R.
and Fred.

John M. Hunt: lives at Nonpareil; post-office, Oakland;
was born January 15, 1826, in Wayne county, Ind.; came to
state and county in 1871; married -Sarah A. Argabrite. Chil-
dren, James L., Rebecca B., Arthur F., Charles H., George
W., Jeptha V. and Herbert W.

Nedom Imbler: lives in Roseburg; is a carpenter and
wagon maker; was born Julyi6, 1820, in Rowan county, N. C. ;
married October, 1831, to Margaret Jones; came to state and
county in 1852. Children, J. W., Sarah, Florence, Eddie,
Warren C. and Alvis.

J. M. Ingram: lives on South Deer creek; is a farmer; post
office Roseburg; was born in Arkansas, December I, 1847;
came to state and county in 1852; married Nancy McLaughlin
September 24, [871.

Kennkr B. Ireland: lives on Ten-mile, post office Ol.illa;
is a farmer and stock grower.

James D. Johnson: lives in Riddle; is a merchant; came
to state and county in 1874; was born January 14, 1859, in
Clay county, Missouri; was married December 20, l88l, to
Julia Ellenburg.

Harvy Jones: lives five miles north west of Roseburg; is a
farmer and stock grower; was born January iS, 1839: in Boone
county, Ind.; came to county in 1852; married August 14,
1868, to Miss Mary A. Duta.

Isaac Jones: lives in Roseburg; is a miller; came to state
in 1852; was born October 22, 1816. in Morgan county, Ohio.
Children, W. S., Nelson D., James O., Nicholas, Libbie,
Clarinda, Sarah E. .-^nnie E. and Etna.

John Jones: lives near Roseburg, on Umpqua river; is a
farmer and stock grower; was born in tJuernsey county, Ohio,
Februarys, i8i2;'came to state in 1852, and to comity in 1853;
married in 1841, to Louisa Imbler.

Lakayette Jones: is a carpenter and farmer; came to
coast in 1853, to county and state in 1871; was born May 30,
1833, in Boone county. Mo.; was married to .Mrs. Mary
Hamilton, who at time of last marriage had three children,
William, Allen and Margaret.

John Kelly: lives five miles south of Roseburg; is a farmer;
post office Roseburg; was born in county Donncgal, Ireland in
1842; arrived in this state and county in 1879.

George W. Kimball: lives in Roseburg; is county clerk;
was born in Orange county. New Hampshire, in 1847; came to
state in 1859; was married in 1877, to .Miss May Moore, who
died three years later, their only child .Maud died in March
1884.

James A. Kirkendai.L: lives in Camas valley; is a farmer;
came to state and county in i860; was born in tirundy county.
Mo., June 23, 1839; married Missouri Belieu, January 3, 1864.

W. Koamer: lives onMyrtle creek; is amiller;came to stale
and county in 1877; was born in Wayne county, Ohio, May

W. J. Kre\

a mcrcha

APPENDIX.

state and county in 1866; was born in Licking county, Ohio,
March 16, 1832; was married to Ann E. Miles. Children,
Orrin, Lucy; George, Thomas, Hannah and Clara.

G. J. KuNS: lives on North Myrtle creek; is a farmer and
miner; came to the state in 1852, and to county in 1853; was
born in Carroll county, Ind., March 20, 1838: was married
July 5, 1866, to Rebecca Holland (deceased), and again mar-
ried April 2, 1876, to Minnie Mulkey.

John Kuykendall: lives in Drain; is a carpenter; born
April 14, 1820, in Vigo county, Ind.; came to state in 1852,
and to county in 185^; married Janu.ary 20, 1842, to Malinda
.Stark.

Dr. William Kuykendall: lives at Drain; is a physician;
was born at Wilbur, Douglas county, Oregon, March i, 1855;
was married May 18, 1876, to Miss M. A. Alysom; has four
children.

Elihu J. Kyks: lives in Looking-glass valley; address is
Looking-glass; is a mill right; was born in Crawford county,
Penn., in 1832; came to this state in 1857, and to county in
1865; was married to Miss Jane Sneed, May 2, 1869.

Henry Lander: lives south of Roseburgon Umpqua river;
is a farmer and stock grower; post-office Roseburg; born Sep-
tember 29, 1824, in Cornwall, England; came to coast in 1853,
and to county in I860; married May 10, 1863, to Nancy E.
Jones.

E. E. Laerie: lives in Garden bottom; post-office Wilbur;
is a farmer and stock raiser; is a native of Douglas county, was
born September 4, 1858; married Miss Kate Beale;only child,
Ferdinand.

N.ARCISSE Laraut: lives in (iarden bottom; is a farmer
and stock grower; was born near St. Johns, Canada, May 7,
1823; married March 1856, to Amy B. Rowley; came to state
in 1850, and to county in 1851. Children, Jennie V., Clin-
tona A., Steven A., Alva R., Narcisse, Charles T., Ida V.,
Leland, Ethel M. and Lucy.

Louis Langenberg: lives at Roseburg: is a boot and .shoe-
maker, and dealer in boots, shoes, etc. ; was born in Hersfeld,
Germany, in 1841; married Elizabeth Goetz, September 2,
1S66; caine to state in 1870, and to this county in 1871.
Children, Mary, Sophia, George, Daniel, LaFayette and
Edmond.

David Lenox: lives in Civil Bend, on Umpqua river; is a
farmer; born March 24, 1S35, in Schuyler county, 111.; came
to Oregon in 1843, 'o Douglas county in 1878; married first
time in 1865, to Sarah I. Campbell; was again married in 1S79,
to M. A. Boslinger.

John F. Levens: was born near Elkton, Douglas county,
September 15, i852; is a grocery merchant; married Martha
V. Snyder. Children, Imo J., Walter F., Fannie A. and
Guy W.

Jacob Ledgerwood: lives on Roberts creek; post office
Roseburg; is a farmer and stock grower; was born in Clay
county. Mo., January iS, 1844; came to state in 1866, and to
county in 1867.

John Letsom: lives in Scotts valley; post-office Youcalla;
occupation farmer and blacksmith; was born in England,
March 13, 1828; came to the United States in 1845, to state
and county in 1850; married Mrs. Sarah Lewis, August 10,

James H. Mahoney: lives in Oakland; was born in Boone
county, Missouri, December 28, 1829; came to state in 1853
and settled in Oakland in 1861; married July, 1866, to Mary
Perdue.

OrvilleA. Malton: lives near Drain; is a farmer; came
to state in 1852 and to county in 1879; was born in La Grange
county, Indiana, July 8, 1844; w.as married to Eliza Rhodes.
Children, Orange, John, Angeline, Catherine, Hattie, Annie
and Oscar.

William Manmnc;: lives in Canyonville; is a merchant.

Ashkr Marks: a pioneer merchant of Roseburg; was
born in Poland; came to this coast in 1853 and came immedi-
ately to this county and has been closely identified with the
county affairs ever since; he has always withstocd the charms
of the gentler sex and we find him yet a single man.

S. Marks: lives in Canyonville; is a merchant and general
speculator; was horn in Poland: came to America in 1850, to
California in 1852 and to Oregon in 1853.

Albert A. Matthews: lives in P'lournoy valley; is a
me'chant and farmer; was born in Williston, Chittenden
county, Vt., November 12, 1822; was married in 1859 to
Alice B. Whisler:

William McBee: lives six miles south of Roseburg on
South Umpqua; is a farmer; was born September 11, 1842,
in Ray county, Missouri; came to coast in 1852 and to county
in 1857; married July 7, 1880, to Caroline A. Rose,

D, C. McCarty: lives in Canyonville; is a druggist; came
to state in 1876 and to county in 1878; was born March 15,
1850, in Toronto, Canada; married Miss Ora Park, August
2, iSSi.

Robert T. McCulloch: lives in Roseburg; is a carpen-
ter; came to state and county in 1853; was born October 14,
1836, in Lee county, Iowa,

Daniel T. McGuire: lives on Ten mile, fifteen miles
west of Roseburg; post-office. Ten-mile; is a farmer; came to
state and county in 1853; was born February 28, 1843, in Lee
county, Iowa.

Peter McKinney: lives near Roseburg; is a farmer; came
to state in 1850 and to county in 1852; was born in Wayne
county, Indiana, in 1830.

James T. McLain: lives on South Myrtle creek; is a
farmer; came to state in 1847 and to county in 1872; was
born February 7, 1832, in Boone county, Mo.; married Olive
Linville, October 20, 1864.

Joseph McLaughlin: lives on South Deer creek; is a
farmer and stock raiser; post-office, Roseburg; was born in
Bourbon county, Kentucky, July 5, 1812; came to state in
1853 and to county in I854.

George F. Merriman: lives in Oakland; is a black-
sinith; was born in Douglas county, Oregon, September 16,
1856; married November 8, 1877, to Mary Murray. Children,
Thomas C, Mary L. and Creed.

John H. Mires: lives on Calapooia; post-office, Oakland;
is a farmer and stock raiser; was born January 8, 1823, in
Licking county, Ohio; came to state in 1853 and to county in
1854; was married March 27, 1S51, to Mrs. Anna Byars, who
had at time of this marriage three children, W. H., Rebecca
and Mary. Mr. Mires' children are Austin, Benton. Anna,
Maggie, Addie and John.

Jacob S. Miller: lives on South Myrtle creek; is a
farmer; came to state and county in 1880; was born August
II, 1862, in Vernon county, Wis.; was married January i,
1883, to Miss Anna Rader.

William T. Morrison: lives on South Myrtle creek; is a
fanner; came to state in 1865 and to county in 1873; was
born April 2, 1850, in Jefferson county, Iowa.

William N. Moore: lives in Roseburg; is county treas-
urer; was born in Douglas county, January 15, 1858; is the
son of the late Rev. Samuel C. Moore.

Henry Morton: lives on Myrtle creek; is a saloon
keeper; came to state in 1851 and to county in 1867; was
born in Independence county, Arkansas, in 1833.

Thomas W. Morgan: lives at Roseburg; is a dealer in
confectionery, tobaccos, etc.; was born May 19, l858, in
Douglas county; married October 17, 1883, to Cora L. Jones.

James Murray: lives in Camas valley; is a stock grower;
came to state in i860 and to county in 1862; was born in
Greene county. Mo., April 14, 1829; married Sarah A. Friend,
October 14, 1854 (deceased).

Watson Mynatt: lives on Cow creek; is a farmer; came
to state in 1853 and to county in 1854; was born July 22,
1822, in Knox county, Tenn. ; was married June 6, 1852, to
Susan Dean.

Byron R. Mynatt: lives on Ten-mile creek; is a farmer
and stock raiser; post-office, Olalla; was born in Douglas
county, Oregon, April 19, 1856; married April 27, 1881, to
Miss Nancy McCulloch.

Sergeant J. J. Nanry, U. S. Army: was born in New
York City; lives at Roseburg and is in charge of the Signal
service station at that place; was married July 8, 1874, to
Mary J. South, who was born in Middlesex county, Va., March
4, 1856. Children, Edward S., Walter J., George L. (de-
ceased), and Clara. Mr. Nanry served a regular course at
Fort Myer, Va., where all employees of the department have
to be schooled.

Thomas W. Newland: lives on Ten-mile; post-office Ten-
mile; is a miller; came to state in 1852, and to county in 1853;
was born in Tyler, West Virginia, November 4, 1S32; mar-
ried Anna Flook, March 7, 1869.

David J. Noah: lives in Camas valley; is a farmer; came to
state and county in 1855; was born in Sheridan county. Mo.,
July 31, 1842; married Mary A. Wiley, October 27, 186S.

Joshu.^ Nol.\nd: lives in Canyonville; is a miner; came to

515

slale in 1851, and In county in 1858; was born Seplember ii,
1831, in LaFayette county, Mo.

\V. G. W. Orr: lives on South Myrtle creek; is a farmer;
came to state in 1853, and to county in 1869; was born April
13, 183S, in Hardin county, Tenn.; married Hannah Strong,
October 11, 1868.

1'. H. O'Shea: lives on Catchen creek, near Canyonville;
is a farmer; born in Ireland, in i843;cameto America in 1853;
arrived in Oregon in 1868, ami in county in 1878; married
Kate Burke in 1S76: has one child, Kate F.

Dr. E. J. Pace: lives in Oakland; is a physician and sur-
geon; was born in Greene county, Tenn., October 21, 1849;
graduated at Louisville Medical and Jefferson colleges F'eb-
ruary, 1S74; came to Oregon in 1877; married Miss Theresa
A. Lewis, December 17, 1874. Children, Lillie Lee, Dora
F. and Edward J.

William E. Palmer: was born January 6, 1857, in Wil-
bur, Douglas county, and is a son of Hon. P. P. Palmer, of
.Scoitsburg; was accidentally killed, December 25, 1883, by
a falling limb near Drain, where he was proprietor of sawmill;
manieil Jennie E. Coats, .September 19. 1876. Children,
Thomas 'E. and Carrie E.

P. C. Parker: lives in Oakland; is a minister; was lieu-
tenant in McNican war; has filled official positions from county
judge to legislator; was horn in Humphreys county, Tenn.,
Octolier 16, 1S09; came to state in 1852 and to county in
1853; married October 18, 1828, to Mary H. Scantling (de-
ceased); was aeain married November 8, i875, to Lucy A.
Bodyfell, cousin of the late James A. Garfield.

W. R. Palterson: lives at Scottsburg; is a hotel keeper;
was born in Kentucky, August 24, 1833; came to state antl
county in 1S53; was married February 5, 1864, to C. H. De-
laney. Children, Annie E., May, Thomas and Edward
(twins), and Lillie.

Ho.N. W. A. Perkins: Uves at Drain; is agent and tele-
graph operator for the R. R. Co. ; came to state and county
in 1875; *'^s born May 18, 1835, in Johnson county, Tenn.;
was elected representative in 1882; married Rebecca J . Mc-
Reynolds March, 1853. Children, Leonard, William and
Ernest.

Philip Peteks: lives on Deer creek five miles east ol
Roseburg; is ;i ini.ri mi , lock grower; was born in Mont-
gomery count . , \ \ , :: isj:;; came to state in 1845 and to
county in 185 1 ; • : ■_• war in 1848.

Robert 1 1 -: li. . ,i\ miles south of Roseburg; post-
office, Roseburg; was born in Chester county, Penn., May 2,
1829; came to state in 1851 and to county in 1852; is a
farmer; is married.

James S. Pickeit: lives near Canyonville; is a lumber-
man; came to state and county in 1877; was born November
15, 1830, in Davidson county, N. C.; married December 8,
1853, to Martha Pool.

J. E. Pike: lives in Oakland; is a merchant; was born
September 5, 1815, in Cincinnati, Ohio; came to state and
county in 1872; married March, 1838, to Miss A. D. Abbey.
Children, two. Married again February 29, 1852, to Eliza-
beth Haynes. Children, Alva, Frank A. and Cora.

William Pitchkori): lives in Roseburg; is a painter;
was born in Hillsborough, III.; came to state" in 1875 and to
county in 1876; was married March 18, 1876, to Viola M.
Harmon. Children, Mabel (deceased), Beatrice, (deceased),
Charles and Agnes.

Drury a. ProcK: lives in Olalla valley; is a fanner;
came to state in 1852 and to county in 1866; was born in
Fayette county. Mo., in 1849.

Martin Purkevimle: lives near Myrtle creek; is a car-
penter; came to slate and county in 1874; was born in Cham-
pagne county, Ohio, February 25, 1842; married September
II, 1864, to Maria Hall.

Charles F. Putnam: lives west ol Drain in Tin Pot
valley; is a farmer and stock grower; was born July 7, 1824,
in Fayette county, Ky.; is an early arrival in the state; was
married December 7, 1846, to Rozella Applegate. Children,
Charles, Lucinda, Horace, Edward, Cynthia, Susan and Jo-
seph (twins.)

W.\i. Rader: lives on North Myrtle creek; post oftice Myr-
tle creek; is a stock grower; came to state and county in 1878;
was born in Van Buren county, Iowa, January 14, 1861.

John RameY: lives on South Myrtle creek; is a farmer;
came to state and county in 1879: was born June iC, 1857, in
Pike county, Kentucky: married Elva Stewart March 25, 1SS3.

Richard A. Raper: lives on Oak creek; is a farmer and
stock grower; was born in Guilford county, North Carolina,
December 30, 1827; came to state and county in 1853; was
married to Mrs. Rebecca Thornhill, January 18, 1855.

Ephraim Raymond: lives on Day's creek; post-office
Canyonville; is a farmer; was born in .Steuben county. New
York, August 31, 1823; arrived in this state in 1851; married
Caroline M. Leverich, October 24, 1864.

D. Gay Reed: lives on Garden Bottom; is a farmer; post-
office Wilbur; was born May 14, 1S49, in Iowa; came to
state and county in 1850.

James E. Rice: lives near Oakland; is a farmer and stock
grower; came to Oregon in 1S44, and to county in 1861; was
born in Upper Canada, February iS, 1812; was married to
Nancy Bear.

Martha A. Rice: lives on Rice creek; post-office Civil
Bend; is a farmer; came to state and county in 1853.

John A. Richards: lives in Roseburg; is a farmer; came to
state in 1852, and to county in 1853: was born in Franklin
county, Virginia, August 30, 181 1; married Francis McCor-
mack, April 11, 1829.

Akner Riddle: lives in Riddle; is a farmer; came to state
and county in 1851; was born October 29, 1841, in Sangamon
county. III.; was married December 31, 1865, to Alice Rice.

W. H. Riddle: live.s on Cow creek; post-office is Riddle;
came to state and county in 1S51; was born in Bourbon county,
Kentucky.

Georc.e Risch: lives on North Myrtle creek; is a miner;
came to state in 1867, and to county in 1871; was born near
Strasbourg, France, December 15, 1827.

J. R. Roberts: lives on Rice creek; post-office Civil Bend;
is a farmer; came to state and county in 1875; "'^s born in
Logan county, Ky., January 30, 1836; married December 23,
1864, to Anna McGee.

Henry Roc.ers: lives in Drain, is a carpenter; came to
state in 1874, and to county in 1876; was born March 20, 1847,
in Canada West near Toronto; was married in 1876, to Mary
Clendenning.

N. H. Rone: lives in Oakland; is a lumberman; was born
January 3, 1837, in Ray county Mo. ; came to state and county
in 1865; married Mary A. Copeland, Januaiy 27, 1857,
(decea.sed), they had two children, one living; Sarah A.;
married again October 6, 1867, to Miss Eliza J. Rice, who
had three children, America M., Edgar L. and Frank.

Randolph T. Rose: lives on Roberts creek, eight miles
south of Roseburg; post-office Roseburg; was born in Schuyler
county. 111., January 26, 1840; came to coast in 1847, and to
Douglas county in 1855; was married to Miss Beaver in i86l.

M. C. Buckle: lives at Oak Grove; post-office Myrtle
creek; is a farmer; came to state in 1852, and to county in
1858; was born in Baltimore, Maryland; married Mary Steven-
son, September 16, 1861.

E. C.Sacry: lives in Oakland; is an accountant; was born
October 3, 1831, in Greene county, Ky.; came to state and
county January 9, 1S78; married November 25. 1852, to
M ss Lucy J. Fortune. Children, William A., Addie M.,
Susan \'., Harry B., Maggie, Carl B. and Edward C.

Simon Selig: lives at Myrtle creek; is a merchant; came
to state and county in 1863; was born in Prussia January 7,
1837; was married February 6, 1866, to Helen Solomon.

Henry C. Shafe: lives on the North Umpqua fourteen
miles east of Roseburg; post-office, Mt. Scott; is a farmer;
was born in Wayne county, N. V., December 23, 1829; came
to state and county in 1862; was married to Elizabeth Kelsey,
February 27, 1877.

(Jeoroe ShamhrooK: lives in Cole's valley; is a farmer
and merchant; w.is born at Cambridge, England, in 1828;
came to state in 1847 and to county in 1852; was married
November 5, 1855, to Lucretia Ridenour. Children, John
C, Daniel R., Eli (deceased), .Marv J., George H., Hannah
E., Jesse, Olive B. (deceased), Benjamin F., Wel'.hy A. (de-
ceased), Martha E. and Maud C.

David R. Shambrook: lives in Cole's v.illey about twenty
miles west of Ro.seburg; is a farmer; posl-office, L'mpi|ua
F'erry; was born in Douglas county, .\pril 19, i860; was
married to Mary King, October 18, 1880. Children, Flossie
P. and infant.

Dr. J. C. Shamhrook: lives in Oakland; is a physician;
was born in Douglas county September 3, 1856; graduated in
Louisville medical college. February 25, 1881.

R. L. SiiEi.l.V: lives in Drain: is a mini>ter: was born in

516

APPENDIX.

Lane county, Oregon, April, 1853; was married to Miss
Mary Gross, May 7, 1876. Children, Daisy M,, Jesse M. and
Nettie B.

James F. Sheffield: lives on South Umpqua; -post-office,
Roseburg; is a farmer; came to state and county in 1853;
was born August 5, 1825, in Huron county Ohio.

R. S. .Sheridan-: lives in Roseburg; is a hardware mer-
chant; was born in Roseburg .September 5, 1859. Mr. Sheri-
dan, with his brother, J. C, occupy the first brick built in the
town.

Joseph C. Sheridan: lives in Roseburg; is a hardware
merchant; was born in San Francisco February i, 1855; was
married June 20, 1883 to Miss Sarah Flournoy.

Thomas R. Sherida.n: lives in Roseburg; is a hardware
merchant: was liorn in Rochester, N. Y.; is married. Chil-
dren, Minnie and Grace.

John P. Sheridan: lives in Roseburg; is a hardware
merchant; came to state and county in 1857; was born in
Rochester, N. Y., November 2, 1852.

Thomas P. Sheridan: lives on his farm one mile south of
Roseburg; came to state and county in 1855; was the first
tinner that opened business in the county; was born in Cairn
county, Ireland, in 182 j.

Ed. F. Shekidan: lives in Roseburg: is a farmer; was
born May 16, i8s7, at Scottsburg, Douglas county; married
November 27, 1881, to Miss Alice Neeves.

L. Shori : lives in Wilbur; is a farmer and stock grower;
was born in Hart county. Kentucky, in 1841; came to state
and county in 1865; married November, 1867, to Miss Annie
Lii.xon, Children, Eliz.ibeth and Nellie.

John H. Shupe: lives in Oakland; is a merchant; was
born in Cass county. Mo., April 26, 1850; came to state in
1853 "infl to county in 1854; married September 16, 1877, to
-Miss .Mary E. Kruse. Children, Leona E., .Marsjaret \Y. and
Rachel G.'

William Silvers: lives on Ten-mile creek; post-office,
Olalla; is a farmer; came to state and county in 1853; was
born April 25, 1S33, in Wayne county, Ind,; married Mary
Simmons September 29, 1S62.

J. B. Smith: lives on Cl,,! '. 1;, ,,,!,: is a farmer; post-
office. Myrtle creek; was I , I , I ^, 1 8 16, in Madison
county, Ky.; came to st.ii. i\: ,, i lo county in 1870;
married February 6, 1S40. 1- ! ur.]^ I :,..,p. Children, Cin-
derella. William O. (deceased), Melissa J., Mary, Emily,
Ellen, G. D., John D., Fleeta, Lennie L., Louisa, Marcus B.
and infant.

B. D. Smith: lives at Wilbur; is a teacher; was born in
La Salle county. III., November 25, 1854; came to state and
county in 1S74.

George A. S.mith; lives in Camas valley; is a farmer;
came to state in 1857 and to county in 1870; was born in
Genesee county, N. Y., February 3, 1835.

Mrs. Susan Smith: lives on South Umpqua near Myrtle
creek.

Charles W. Smith: livps li,,- milns south of Roseburg;
post-office, Roseburg; is :, I ■■.'..,■ 1 ,,< i.ck raiser; was born
in England, February 17, l-j;; ,, , , siate in 1850 and to
county in 1851; wasemll^.^ .i -,, ,:i-, i;iuspaper published in
Oregon.

W. R. Smith: was born March 4. 1812, in Shenandoah
county, Virginia; came to state and county in 1864; post-office,
Oakland; married May, 1843, t" Winnie H. Williams. Chil-
dren, Edward M., Henrietta (deceased), Adolphus, Lucy M.,
Alonzo M., Alfonzo A., Flavins, Nancy A., Alice G., Susan,
Eliza F. and Walter S.

Jacob B. Spaur: lives five miles south of Roseburg; post-"
office, Roseburg; is a farmer; was born in Lewis county, Va.,
January 9, 1825; came to state in 1852 and to county in 1S53.

A. F. Stearns: lives at Oakland; is a merchant; was born
October 24, 1854, in Douglas county, Oregon; was married
October 2, 188 1, to Miss Nannie E. ChenowetlV.

(iEORCE W. Stephens: lives on Calapooia; is a farmer;
post-office, Oakland; was born in Douglas county, Oregon,
November 19, 1856; married October 22, 1S82, to Miss Belle

G. H. Stevenson-: lives at Oak Grove; post-office. Myrtle
creek; is a farmer and stock grower; came to state and county
in 1853; was born in Hopkins county, Ky.. May 4, 1836;
married Mary A. Roberts, October 19, 1866.

Thomas Strode: lives on South Myrtle creek; was born
July 2, 1863, in Polk county, Oregon.

Dr. D. S. Slrvker; lives in Drain; is a physician and
dentist; was born in Strykerville, Wyoming county, N. Y.,
June 19, 1835; came to slate in 1866 and to county in 1876;
owns first brick building built in Drain; was married to Miss
Celia M. Stone, February 22, 1864. Children, Stanton W.,
Ola M., George W., Guy, Ray S. and Pearl D.

Sampson Sutherlin: lives at Fair Oaks near Oakland; is
a farmer and stock grower; came to state and county in 1850;
married June 23, 1861, to Lucy A. Parris. Children, Irene
J. (deceased). Lulu A., John H., William F., Emma, .Mary
A., Charles E. and Sampson.

G. A. Taylor: lives in Oakland; is a telegraphist and
postmaster; was born near Albany, Oregon, February 22,
1S55; came to county in 1872; married May 7, 1874, to Miss
E. J. Hall. One child, Eva.

L.AWSON Thomas: lives in Canyonville; is a mail contrac-
tor; came to state in 1852, and to county in 1854; was born
July 3, 1839, in Harrison county, Indiana; married September
1S65, to Mrs. Isabella Dysart.

Louis T. Thompson: lives in Coles' valley; is a farmer;
post-office, Umpqua Ferry; was born in Logan county, Illi-
nois, December 14, 1842; came to state and county in 1S58;
was married September 8, 1867, to Missouri A. Wright.
Children, Olive, Minnie, Laura, Edward, Leonora, William O.,
Mary, Louis and John M.

W. H. Thompson: lives in Camas valley; post-office
Camas; was born in Douglas county, Oregon, August 4, 1S61.

Ja.mes W. Thornton: lives in Looking-glass valley; is a
farmer; post-office. Looking-glass; was born in DeKalb coun-
ty, Missouri, in 1839; was married in 1865, to .Mary A. Scotl.
They have a family of eight children.

JOSEPH B. TiPTON: lives on North Umpqua; post-office,
Mt. Scott; is a farmer and miller; came to state and county
in 1854: was burn in Blunt county. Mo., August 16, 1847;
married [uly 10, 1866, to Ellen Strader.

Ferdinand M. Tip-rON: lives on North l'mpt|ua: is a
farmer, miller and stock raiser: post-v^lTicc. Mt. Scutu «as
born in Benton county, .Mo., May 24, 1S51: came to --u le in
1853, and to county in 1854: was married to Linnie .Miller
June 30, 1880.

William C. Tipton: Uves near North Umpqua; is a
farmer and stock raiser: post-office, Mt. Scott; was born in
Benton county. Mo., June 12, 1852; came to state in 1853,
and to county in 1854; was married to Eliza A May, Septem-
ber 19, 1883.

William Trask: lives on North Umpqua; is a farmer
and stock raiser; post-oflice, Mt. Scott; was born in Franklin
county, Mass., in 1814; came to state and county in 1852; was
married to Lucy P. Doolittle, August 10, 1851.

James A. Velzian: lives in Civil Bend; is a farmer; post-
office, Roseburg; came to state and county in 1859; was born
February 22, 1837, in Nova Scotia; was married November
6, 1862, to Sarah McBee. Six children in family

James Ward: lives on Pass creek, near Drain;' is a farm-
er; came to state and county in 1853; was born February 3,
1841, in Johnson county, Iowa; was married to Rosa ^nlauf
One child, Clara.

C. L. Walk: lives in Canyonville; is a physician; came
to state in 1873, and to county in 1882; was born 1857, in
Placerville, Eldorado county, Cal.

John L. Watson: lives on the east fork of North Ump-
qua, about twenty miles east of Roseburg; post-office, Mt.
Scott; is a farmer and stock raiser; was born in Garnavilla,
Iowa, June 4, 1852; came to state and county in 1S53.

Mrs. Emily Watson: was born at Sackett's Harbor, N.
Y., March 26, 1818, and was married to James Watson, Octo-
ber 15, 1835. In company with her husband and family she
crossed the plains in 1853, and settled in Lane county, but
came to this county in 1854, and setted on her farm on the
east fork of the North Umpqua, where she has since lived.
Her husband, James Watson, died some years ago.

Edwin Weaver: lives on Myrtle creek; post-office, Myrtle
creek; is a farmer and stock raiser; came to state and county
in 1853; was born in Washington county. III., in 184S.

William W. Wells: lives in Elkton; is a lawyer by pro-
fession; was born in Rock Island county, Illitlois, January 17,
1830; came to state and county in 1851; has served as treas-
urer and school superintendent; commenced the practice of
law in 1861, but has since withdrawn from practice.

Solomon II. Way: lives southeast ol Roseburg; post-
office, Roseburg; i« a farmer; came to state in 1869, and to

APPENDIX.

517

county in 1S70; was born in Clinton county, Ohio, in iSli;
was married in 1834 to Mary Hodson Koone.

Davih S. West: lives in Garden valley, west uf Rose-
burg; is a farmer and stock grower; came to state and county
in 1S55; was born in 1S47 in Deliance count\, Ohio.

JosiRUs Wkst: lives on Ten Mile; is a miner; came to
state and county in 1861; was born in Harrison county, Ken-
tucky. May 28,' 1825; married May, 1875, '« Mrs. Elizabeth
Higgins.

William R. Wells: lives on Ten-mile creek; is a mer-
chant: post-office. Olalla; came to state in 1852, and to
coiiiiix 111 1S5;: wa^ liorn in Des Moines county, Iowa, Aug.
8, iN4J. iniiMi i liiialine Tedrow, April 12, 1S63.

I AMI I. W I w 1 K: lives on Missouri bottom; post-office,
MmiIc . i.:Lk; I, .1 lanner: came lo state and county in l85o;
wa>lH.ni ill W.llianis.in iMunU. Tennessee, April 13, 1832;
married May 3- 'SS". t..>ara!i A. Ilailey.

Si.MF.ON W IIF.EI.KU: idricascdi Inrmerly lived at Roseburg;
was a I'armer; and born near Boston, Mass.. September I,
iSj;; came to state and county in l853;was married February
14. iS^o, to Esther Clark. Children, Levant C, Walter,
Kmiiia'and Elmer.

August 1870. riiiMi. , I , . \|ii..;ai-et A., Joseph I..,

Charles W., John 1'.. I ~ - li and George F.

E. F. Whisi.ek: i 1 mij-glass; is a carpenter;

came to state in 1852. ji i : miiyin 1S54; was born in

Tii'i . \\ . \\iNNii--ORD: lives on Calapooia: post-office
Oaklaii'l; i- a liiin.r: born in Addington, Washington county,
iS:;r,: rame to state and county in 1871;
11. 1^ |. to Margaret E. Bruner. Chil-
I , John A., Mary E., Joseph E.,

Virginia, .Vii;
married iJc^
dren, Gemi;
Robert L., ^
Enoch W
and stock rai
county, M.I.,
state in 1S40

on North Umpqua; is a faimer

Is Mt. Scott; was born in Lincoln

,. I ; >: arrived in Marion county of this

iM I.. I Ins county in 1854; was married to

Aaiii;, \ \1 :i . s, ,„ember3, 1857.

W : I \, i\siON: lives six miles south of Roseburg;

is a h 1 : Ais born April 29, 1838. in Albany county,

N. \ ; I, in 1862, and to county in 1866; married

Fil'i I . ;. i VI, 10 Agnes M. Rice. Mr. Winston is ex-
toii-i ;: Iruit growing.

\\ i \\ lives in Riddle; keeps a grocery store; came

tn sii:, .ml 1 iiiityin 1880; was born June 11, 1811, in
Kanauiia county. West Virginia; married August 1833, to
Mary F. Henson.

W. L. Wil.so.N: lives on Cow creek; post-office Riddle; is a
farmer and stock grower; came to state in 1845, and to county
in 1853; was born May 3, 1832, in Clay county, Missouri;
married to Iludda Mynatt (deceased) December 24, 1854; was
again married May 5, 1861, to Harriet Haskins.

FoREY A. Williams: lives in Looking-glass valley; is a

farmer and tinsmith; botn November 12, 1854, in Looking-
glass valley; married November 21, 1878, to Julia E. Buell,
only child, Jesse, born August 23, 1879.

Henry Wiley: lives on North Myrtle creek; is a farmer;
came to state in 1S52, and to county in 1853; was born in I'ike
county, Ohio, December 13, 1S21; married June 9, 1S59, to
Mrs. Daisy A. Milliken.

Jekffrscn Wiley: lives on Myrtle creek; is a farmer;
came to state and county in 1872; was born in Logan county,
111., August 24, 1849; was married to Henrietta Jones, Novem-
ber II, 1874.

William T. Woodson: lives on Round Prairie; post-office
Roseburg; is a farmer; came to state in 1S50, and to county in
1851; was born in Benton county. Mo., July 2, 1841; married
November 19, 1876.

A. W. W'OOLLY: lives on Day's creek; is a boot and shoe-
maker; post-ofF.ce Canyonville; born in Norfolk, Virginia,
July 10, 1821; came to Oregon in 1842, then in the employ of
the American Fur Company; married to J. Chamberlain in
1868.

Willia.m J. WORLEV: livfes at Canyonville; is a miner;
born in Buncombe county. North Carolina, July 4, 1834;
1111. i in state and county in 1859; married Jane Fiddes,
[ S, 1863. Children, Joseph W. and Mary J.

' IN W. Wright: lives in French Settlement; is a

liiiiMi; Has born July 7, 1859, in Douglas county, Oregon;
married May I, iSSr, to Nettie Williams.

Hiram F. Wright: lives on Cow creek; post-office Can-
yonville; is a farmer; came to state and county in 1S74; "iis
born November 9, 1850 in Ohio; married Octrdjer 9, 1875, 'o
Mary BoUenbaugh.

Joshua Wright: lives on North Myrtle creek; is a miner;
came to state and county in 1853, was born in Lincoln county,
Ohio, November 12, 1827; married to Miss Emma Jones,
November 9, 1877.

William F. Wright: lives in Oakland; is a book keeper;
was born February 8, 1848, in Linn county, Missouri; came
to state in 1852 and to coimty in 1853; married November 22,
1868, to Miss Amanda E. Williams who died February 22,
1871, had one child; married again September 25, 1872, to
Miss \Larietta Williams, who died December 18, 1879; children,
William W., Una.M., Esther P. and Lester. Married third
time, to Fannie E. Wright, July 14, 1883.

Ambrose C Young: lives in Oakland; is a livery stable
keeper; . • .- . ^ . «

1853, and to county m i>
Pauline Reed; have .an rh,

J. C. VoONG:liN.sa. II,
Illinois, February 4. 1S44;
March 20, 1865. Childr
(deceased), and Manna.

L. H. ZiGLRR: lives in Roseburg; is a hotel keeper; came
to state in 1850; and to county in 1873; was born in Detroit
county, Virginia; inarried Sarah Plymale. Children, Charles
P., Zelia Kate (deceased), Fred.M., Michael (deceased), Lew,
Paul and Claud.

July 13, 1830; came I

» IS married May 6, 1866, to

ivniisH.

\v IS liorn in Christian county,
married to Miss Agnes Shaw,
Margaret (deceased), Jos'^ph

COOS COUNTY.

' C. Andrews: a resident of Coquille City, where he is en-
gaged in the general grocery business, in connection with
which he is the postmaster of that town; he came to Coos
county in 1872.

Samuel Ai'pleton: lives on Coi|uille river: came to
county with his mother in 1873; is about twenty-four years of
age.

H. M. Backensto: lives in Marshfield; is a music teacher;
was born in Albany, Oregon.

Rev. C. p. BaileY: lives at Sumner; is a minister; came
to state in 1852 and to county in 1874; was born ni Missouri;
married December 1871, to Mary J. Stephenson. Children,
Winnie G., Martha J., Charles E., Samuel M. and Cassie M.

J. F. Barrows: lives on the Coquille; is engaged in sal-
mon canning; came to state in 1847 and to county in 1883;
went to relieve the Whitman party after the memorable mass-
acre; has six children.

S. L. Bei.ieu: lives on the Coquille river; post-office,
Norway; was born in Piatt county, Mo., in 1837; is married;
has four children, Ella, John 1)., Lulu and Lloyd.

George Bennett: came to Coquille in 1873; settled
about one mile below Bandon ferry on land first selecte<l by
Thomas Low, being the first donation claim taken in this sec-
tion of country; is a native of Ireland and a man of large in-
telligence, author of the history of Bandon, Ireland, a very
creditable work; he is justice of peace (or the precinct.

J. D. Bennett: lives at Coquille; is a miller; came to
county in 1879; was born in Fayette county. III.; is married;
has two children.

W. A. Border: was born in Pennsylvania in 1832; came
to slate and county in 1877; married in 1854 to Miss Marie
Hopkins, of London, England. Children, Alonzo, Albert
and Eva.

G. Browne: lives with his family in Coquille city; is a
painter; came to the coast in 1873.

G. A. Brown: was born in Lyon county, Ky., in 1S33;
came to state and county September, 1861: was married to
Miss M. J. Hill, of Lyon county, Ky. Children, John W.,
Tames C, Ann E., Daniel IL, R. E L., G. S., Glenn .ind
Cora.

APPENDIX.

W. H. BuNCH: lives in Coquille; is a native of Kansas;
married Miss Lizzie Roberts, June i6, 1881. One child.

A. L. BUEI.L: was born in Cincinnatti, Ohio, in 1S47;
came to Oregon in 1852, and to his present location on Catch-
ing creek in 1881, where he is engaged in sheep raising; mar-
ried and has two children, Eva B. and Nora.

John W. Caldwell: lives in Eckley; is a stock raiser;
post-office, Eckley; was born May 11, 1853, in Missouri;
came to state in 1864, and to county in 1871; married March
29, 1879, to Christenia B. Majory. Children, Grace B.,
Mary M. and infant.

William Carothers: lives in Coquille city; is a mer-
chant and a native of Douglas county; came to Coquille
in 1871.

K. K. CoLWELL: lives at Coquille; is a boot and shoe
maker; came to county in 187 1.

John Church: lives in MarshfieM; is publisher of a news-
paper; came to state and county in iSSi; is a native of Indi-
ana; married in 1S67, to Mary B. Parker.

Charles E. G. Deitz: lives at Myrtle Point; was born
in Hanover, Germany, in 1829; came to state and county in
1865; married March 30, 1868, to Mary E. Wilber. Chikh'en,
Joseph, Lizzie E., William E., Samuel E., Grace E., Jane
E. (deceased), and Johanna E.

W. L. Dixon: was born in Maine in 1849; came to county
in 1875; is a merchant; was married in 1881 to Fanny G.
Lehnherr. Children, M. M. and Merrilk
. D. DoNELSON: lives on the Coquille where he settled in
1868; is a mechanic; was married in 1872 to Miss Thrush.

David Drew: lives in Coquille city; is a blacksmith; is a
nephew of T. B. Willard, the lounder of Coquille city.

John B. Dudley: lives in Sumner, and was the founder
of that town; is a merchant; came to state in 1850 and to
county in 1854; was born in Pittsburg. Penn. ; and married
in January, 1875, to Henrietta Higley. Children, Charles,
Willie, Minta, Herbert and Edward.

Dr. George D. Elgin: lives at Myrtle Point; was born
in Kentucky; came to state and county in 1870; isaphysician.

Jacob Fouts: lives near Coquille city; is a logger; was
born in Douglas county, Oregon; came to this county in 186S
and has a farm on Cunningham creek.

Martin L. Friend: lives at Camas valley; is a mechanic;
was born in Iowa; came to state in i860.

J. F. Fuller: lives in Bandon; is a carpenter; came to
state and county in 1877.

George Grube: lives at Grube's mill; post-office, Ran-
dolph; was born in Germany; came to state in 1859 and to
county in 1866; is single and 54 years of age; is a merchant.

William Hall: fives at Marshfield; is a surveyor; was
born in Green county, Tenn. ; came to state in 1850 and to
county in 1870; was married October 5, 1851, to Martha Cox.
Children, J. F., J. T., A. J., Ida P., Sarah A., Mary M.
and Walter St. Clair, an adopted son.

John Hambloch: lives on Coquille river; was born in
Seigne, West Phalin, Prussia, July 9, 1829; came to America
in 1849 and to county in 1854; was married in Port Orford in
185610 Miss Jane A. Long. Children, Mary E. (deceased),
Malinda N., John A. and Mary C.

ThoiMAS p. Hanley: lives on the Coquille where became
in 1868; married Miss Dora A. L. Schroeder, in 1881. One
child, a son.

Captain W. H. Harris: lives on South Coquille river;
post-office. Myrtle Point; was born in Howard county. Mo.,
January 9, 1823; came to state in 1850 and to county in 1853;
married December 24, 1858, to Margaret Romanes. Chil-
dren, Mary, Elizabeth and Christenia. Captain Harris
served in the Mexican and Southern Oregon wars.

Richard Haughton: lives near Norway; came to the
was born in England.

1 1 I III.; lives near Norway; is a log contractor;

III SSo; was born in France.
- I I : lives in Coquille city; is a painter; was

^ ' II 11 Territory; came to Oregon in 1868 and
arried August 17, I882, to Julia C.

A'owel. One child, George.

E. Henkendorff: lives on the Coquille; is a mechanic;
came to county in 18S0; married Miss Clara Gillman.

Frank P. Hermann: lives at Myrtle Point; is a clerk and
photographer; was born in Lonaconing, Alleghany county,
Md., came to state and county in 1S59; married Emma K.
Hull March 13, 1883.

Joseph Hudson: lives at Sumner; is a carpenter; came to
state in 1847 and to county in 1875; was married April,
1867, to Margaret Wheeler. Children, Mary, Abbie, Eliza,
Josephine, John, Inez and Joseph.

Thomas N. Johnson: Uves in Sumner; is a blacksmith;
came to state in 1S70, and to county in 187 1; was married in
1857 to Frances M. Stevens. Children, Thomas W., George
W.; Katie J., Ira, Russell and Sadie F. Three of the family
are deceased— Sarah, Ira and Cora B.

Edward Jennings: lives at Empire City, is a school
teacher; came to state in 1847, and to county in 1870; mar-
ried November 20, 1880, to Maud Fetter. Children, Law-
rence B. and Clara E.

James Jenson: lives in Parkersburg; is a fisherman; was
born in Denmark in 1850; came to the United States in 1868,
and to Coquille in 1875.

William Jenkins: lives on Enchanted Prairie; post-of-
fice, Angora: is a farmer; was born in Hopkins county, Ky.,
in 1S32; came to state in 1844 and to county in 1S53.

Alexander Jackson: lives on Coquille river; was born
in Illinois in 1834; married to Miss Williams, in 1859; came
to Oregon in 1879. Children, Mary A. and Agnes.

George W. Lanieve; came to the Coquille in 1864; is a
hotel and saloon keeper; was married January 18, 1877, to
Susan F. Wagner, one child, Daisy.

Jesse Lanievr: lives on Bear creek near Coquille; is a
farmer; post-office Parkersburg; was married in 1878, to Miss
Pruit.

James Laird: was born in Jefferson county, N. Y., in
1832; came to state and county in 1875; was married to Mrs.
C. A. Harry, in 1875. Children, Walter M., Joseph L.
and Carl E.

Milton R. Lee: was born in Looking Glass, Douglas
county, Oregon, March 29, 1863, and moved with his parents
in 1873, to Coquille in Coos county, where he is engaged in
farming.

T. A. Lewis: came to the county in 1S64; post-office, Ban-
don; was for eight years mail carrier between Gardiner and
Port Orford.

John Lever: lives at Sumner; is a: logger; came to state
and county in 1862; is a native of New Brunswick; was mar-
ried December 7, 1856, to Betsey M. Chase. One child, Per-
cy Chase.

Judge D. J. Lowe: came to Coquille river in 1856, and
brought his wife in 1858. They have six children, all of
whom were born on the Coquille, the eldest daughter, Mrs.
Walcot, was born April 1859 and was the first white child
born on the Coquille.

A. J. Mack: lives near Norway; is an engineer: post-office
Norway; came to state and county in 1874; has a wife and five
children.

Geo. W. Martin: lives on Coos river; is a logger; post-
office Marshfield; was born in 1858 in Iowa; came to state and
county in 1874; married September 2, 1883, to Laura E. Ben-
nett.

Robert L. Marti ndale: lives in Camas valley; is a
farmer; post-office Camas valley; is a native of Douglas county,
Oregon .

R. Mathison: lives in Coquille; is a shoe maker; came to
county in 1874; is a married man, and doing an extensive
business in the boot and shoe line.

Sol. McClosky: lives near Norway; came to Coquille river
October 1876, has held office of justice of the peace and post-

JOHN McIsaacs: lives at Marshfield; is a teamster; was
born in British America in 1835; came to state and county in
1864.

G. Mehl: was born in Germany, in 1823; is a brewer;
arrived in Philadelphia, Penn., in iS44;cameto state in 1850,
and to Coos county in 1876; was married in 1868, to Mary
Harney. Children, Fred, Mary, William, Thomas and
George.

Hon. William Morris: lives near Coquille city; where he
located with his family in December 1872; he is a native of
England; was nominated by the republicans in 1880 for legis-
lature and elected; was re-elected in 1882.

John T. Moulton: lives at Coquille city; is a merchant;
came to Coquille in 1S65, is a native of Maine.

Oden Nelson: lives at Norway; is one of the founders of
this place, located here in 1873: i> a merchant.

William Oddv: lives at Myrtle Point; is a telegraph

APPENDIX.

519

operator, clerk and salesman; came to the Coquille in 1875;
has had some experience in mail contracting.

T. G. Owen: is a lawyer; came to this county in 1S73; was
admitted to the bar in 1874.

C. F. \V. Von Peuert: was born in Prussia; is a mechanic;
post-office, Coquille; came to Coos bay in 1869, ?ince which
time he has resided there; married to Miss Perkins in 1874.

Otto H. 1'rey: lives at Myrtle Point; is a merchant; was
born in Prussia March 20, 1S39; came to state and county in
1877; was married in 1873 to Louisa Plitt. Children, Au-
}»u=ta Emily, i!. Frank, Bertha and Otto.

Cai'TAI.n O. Reed: lives at Norway, a little "burg"
named by the Captain in honor of his native country; has a
general merchandise store at this place; he, wiih his brother,
built, in 1878, the little craft Ceres.

J. C. RoiiiNSON: lives on North Coos river; is a farmer:
post-office, Marshtield; came to state in 1850 and to county
in i860; was married in 1873; has eight children.

Stephen Rogers: lives on South Coos river; is a farmer
and merchant; post-office, Marshfield; came to state and
county in i87o; was born in Danbytown, Vt.; married in
1S60 to Adelia Parker. Children, H. H., Cynthia A., Frank
E., Emma J. and Xellie J.

James \V. Rooke: lives on North Coos river; is a farmer;
post-office, .Marshheld; came to state in' 1S52 and to county in
1853; was born in Dublin, Ireland; married in 1863 to Helen
Gurney. Children, Thomas R., Eliza E., James W. and
Rosaltha E.

AuRA.M Rose: lives at Black sand mines; is a miner; post-
office. Kand.jiph: c.-ime to state in 1858 and to county in 1871:
is man 1. ■!: !i.i- \w. .laughters.

li. I I "11 Ross slough near Marshfield; is a

faiiiiLi ,::, . :. :,. I ; came to state in 1850 and to county in
1853; u.i, ...:.'.: 11, Indiana; was married October 10, 1864, to
Rhoda 1;. Duncbrakc. One child, George F.

A. H. Sak(;ent: lives on Coquille river; is a farmer;
came to county in 1874, where he has since resided.

EiJWARD E. Scales: lives in Coquille city; is a clerk and
broker; came to state in 1S56; has lived in this county twenty-
seven years.

F. E. SCHOFIELU: lives at Dora, Coos county; was born
in 1843; came to Oregon in 1876; married Miss Emmons, of
Iowa. Children, Ida, Edna, Ivan and Clara.

J. H. SCHROEDER: was born in Baltimore, Md., in 1840;
came to county in 1859; is a farmer; was married to Miss
Emily Perry, December 30, 1861. Children, Dora, A. L.,
Mary E., William T., Ella J., George T.. Alice May, Walter
v., Clarence, Ralph and Gustave.

J. Frederick .Schroder: lives near Norway; is a farmer;
was born in Baltimore, Md., September 15, 1844; came to
state and county in 1859. was married December 25, 1866 to
Mary Perry. Children, Clara B., Charles A., Frank, E,
Finley and Eva L.

Samuel B. Sherwood: lives in Sumner; is proprietor of
a livery stable, teamster, &c. ; came to state and county in
1871; was born in Onondaga county, N. Y.; was married Oc-
tober 30, i860, to Eliza J. Finch. Children, Mary E., Starr
K. and Mattie.

Harry Simmons: lives at Bandon; is a ship carpenter;
came to county and state in 1883; is unmarried.

J. M. Sku.lN: lives at Marshfield; is a lawyer; was born

in Monroe county, I'enn. ; came to state and county in fanuar.
1S72, married March 22, 1863.10 Nellie Sherman. One child
Kate M.

A. J. Smith: lives in Sumner; came to state in 1859, and
to county in 1883; was born in Canada West.

John .Snyder: was born in Germany in 1S42; came to
America in 1852, to Oregon in 1869, and to county in 1873;
was married to Miss Amanda Hayes in 1865. Children,
Alice, Ada and John.

Russell Stevens: lives on Catching slough; is a farmer;
post-office, Marshfield; is a native of New York; came to
state in 1868, and to county in 1869; was married in 1866, to
Nancy J. Darling. They have an adopted child, Francis L.
Stevens.

Edwin E. Stillwell: Hves in Coquille city; is a native
of Douglas county; has lived in Coquille eighteen years.

S. E. Steward: lives in Coquille city; is a log contractor;
came to county in 1865; w-as married to -Miss Moulton, by
whom he had five children, two living and three dead.

Dr. J. W. Starr: lives at Bandon; is a physician; was
born in Belmont county, Ohio; came to state in 1S53, and to
county in 1883; married February 22, 1872, to Adaline Wil-
liamson. One child, Luri W.

John F. Tim.mermaN: Hves at Webster's Point; is a farmer;
post-office Marshfield; came to state and county in 1870; mar-
ried in 1873, to Louisa Schroeder, one child, ^Iax.

J. P. Tupper: lives at Bandon; is a hotel keeper and mer-
chant; came to state and county in 1869; was born in Nova
Scotia; married October 3, l86l, to Martha A. Lynch, only
child, Benjamin F.

Carl H. Volmar: lives at Myrtle Point; is an atlorney-at-
law, graduated in University of Maryland, in 1877; originally
came to Coquille in 1859; was born in Baltimore, Maryland,
September 18, 1856.

George Wasson: this gentleman is said to have built the
first house in Enpirecity, Coos county, in the summer of 1S53.
Mr. Wasson was born in New Brunswick, and came to this
state in 1850, and to Coos county in 1853.

James A. Waller: lives at Coquille city; is a carpenter;
came to county in 1868; was born in Tennessee; is a promi-
nent member of the order of Odd Fellows.

Joseph W.\ltser: lives at Randolph; is a brewer; was
born in Germany. Mr. Waltser has acquired a good reputa-
tion as a brewer.

William M. Way: hves wiih his family at Norway; is a
clerk and telegraph operator; came to slate and county in 1875.

Mathew Whoberg: was born in Howard county, Missou-
ri, in 1825, and came to Oregon in 1852; settled on liis present
farm of 160 acres on Catching creek in 1872; married and has
ten children, Margret Ann, Mary E., Catharine, James A. M.,
Willis G., Amelia J., John .M., William G., Joseph C, ami
Samantha.

T. B. Willard: lives in Coquille; was the original prop-
rietor of (he town; was a pioneer of 1853; came to this
county in 1866

Jasi'ER a. Yorkam: lives on Coos river; is a farmer; post-
office, Marshfield; came to state in 1853 and to county in
1S54; was horn in Illinois; was married February 14, 1S71,
to Marian A. Rogers. Children, Edwin R. (deceased),
George H. (deceased), Lydia E., Stephen J. (deceased) and
Jasper A.

CURRY COUNTY.

D. L. Anderson: was born in Warren county, Tennessee,
and came to Oregon in 1S50, and in .May, 18S1, located on
his present farm near Denmark, Curry county, and engaged
in farming; married a daughter of ex-Judge F'itzhugh. and
has eleven children, George, Mira (deceased), Emxrh. Dickey
(deceased), John, Fi'.zhugh, Lee, Solomon, Phebc, Hannah,
Eva and Nancy.

Wm. H. H. Averill: a native of Illinois, and in 1852
emigrated to Oregon, and in 1880 came to Curry county, lo-
cating on Flora's Flats, two miles from Denmark; owns 200
acres of land, where he also keeps a merchandise store; is
fi>rty years of age and married. Has a family of four chil-
dren, Euphonia A., James .S., Lawrence A. and Edgar F.

W. H. Bagnell: "lives four miles above EUensburg; is en-
gaged in fishing and farming ; is a native of Troy, New York;
came to the stale and county in 1855.

M. M. Bates: lives at Port Orford; is a lawyer; was born
in Massachusetts; came to state and county in 1864; married
in 1869 to Fannie M. Dyer. Children, Ida May, Blanche
and B. W.

Morris L. Bennett: is a native of Ohio; was born Oct.
II, 1854, and came to Coos county, Oregon, in 1877, and
with his mother located on his present ranch in Curry county
in March, 1878; has 320 acres of land, and engage<l in sheep
raising.

Jesse W. Carev: lives on Mussel creek; is a farmer and
stock raiser; post-office, Port Orford; was born in Hamilton
county, Ind. ; came to county and slate in 1869; married Jan-
uary II, 1880, to Alice Bledsoe.

Asa Carman: lives at Port Orford; is a saloon keeper;
was born in 1831; came to st.ate in 1871, and was sheriff of
Curry county one term.

APPENDIX.

Capt. Peter Cauiihei.L: lives on Smith's river, Cali-
fiirnia; is captain of the tug Pelican, at mouth of Rogue
river; he is a native of Canada, and about sixty years or age.
His family consists of James, John, Fannie, (WilUam and
Mary, twins), Hugh and Robert.

JosEi'H Ch.apman: lives in EUensburg; is a teamster; was
horn in Monroe county, Mrginia; came to state and county in
1S79; was married in 1S33 to Miss Rachel Hatfield. Chil-
dren, Carrie, Joseph, Cintha S., Katie, Barbara, Caroline,
Perry and Edward.

H. Clarno: lives four miles above EUensburg; keeps a

dairy; was born in Illinois; came to siate and county in 1873.

John' Colton: was born in Missouri; is 26 years of age; is

married; in 1883 settled on his present farm on Flora's

creek; post-office, Bennett.

D. J. COLLI-Ns: lives on Hunter's creek; was born in Bos-
ton, Mass.; post-office, EUensburg; is a stock raiser; came to
state and county in 1871; married Miss H. McCarty in 1850.
Childien, James, Fannie, Jeremiah, Johanah and Katie.

James A. Coolev: lives in Chetco valley; is a dairyman;
post-nffice, Chetco; is a native of Missouri; came to state in
iSSj. and to county in i860; was married in 1867, to Ma-
tilla .'^tanton. Children, Minnie, Alice N., Matilda E., Ber-
tha A., Mary E., Hester M. and Ida M.

H. M. CoOLEV: lives near Chetco river; is a farmer and
stock grower; post-office, Chetco; is a native of Missouri;
came to state in 1853, and to couniy in 1S60; was married in
1878, to Florence Howland. Children, Millie N., Walter
and Abbie.

WiLLl.'iM Cox: was born in Illinois; is 45 years of age ;
came to Oregon in 1845 ^'^^ settled in Curry county at an
early dav; resides on Flora's creek; is married. Children,
Sarah C., Ralph E., John I. E., Mary Ann. Effa J. and
Davis L.

Glenn B. Cox: was born in Polk county, Oregon, in
1857; came to Curry county and settled on Flora's creek; is a
lumberman.

Chari.es Dewey : lives three miles above EUensburg on a
farm: was born in Pembroke, Genesee county, N. Y. ; came
to state in i860 and to county in 1862; owns a valuable mine
on the beach and divides his time between mining and farming.
William Ferris: lives near Port Orford; is a miner; came
to Curry county in 1853.

George FiTZHUOH: lives at Denmark; came to state in
1850 and to county in 1852; is married. Children, Melvin,
Fanny, Charles, John and Robert.

S. B. Gardener: lives near EUensburg; is a farmer and
stock raiser: was born in Iowa; came to state in 1863 and to
county in i866;'was married in 1866 to Catherine Chapman.
Children, Edwin L., Ellen M., Reuben, Delos and Viola.

William Gauntlett: lives at EUensburg; is sheriff of
Curry county; was born in Scotland; came to state and county
in 1859; married June, 1880, to Annie Winsor. Children,
George and Clinton.

W. S. HiGGixs: lives on Winchuck; is a farmer; post-
office, Chetco; was born in Ohio; came to state in 1850 and
to county in 1877; was married in 1S58 to Miss Abbott. ChU-
dren, Henry Robert, Emily J., Elizabeth Daisy, Martha,
fames, Rosa and Louis.

N. Huntley: is a farmer and fisherman; lives eight miles
above EUensburg; was born in Ohio; came to state in 1848
and to county in 1870; married Mary J. King in 1847.

W' illiam a. King: was born in Illinois; is 37 years of
age; came to state in 1854; is a stock grower; lives on Flora's
creek ten miles from Denmark; post-office, Denmark.

WiLLiA.M KiRK: lives near Chetco river; is a merchant;
post-office, Chetco; was born in Belfast, Ireland; came to

Lot' IS Knait: lives with his mother, who is now 80 years
of age; is proprietor of Knapp's hotel at Port Orford; they
were among the first settlers of that town. In connection with
their hotel they own 1,200 acres of land.

D.WID Liuby: lives nine miles above EUensburg, at which
place he owns a fine farm; post-office, EUensburg; was born
in Maine, in 1831; came to state and county in 1853; was in
Indian wars of 1855-6 and fought bravely for the defense of
his country.

C. Long: was born in Illinois; is now 46 years of age;
owns 1,000 acres of good grazing land twelve miles from
Bandon where he is extensively engaged in the dairy business;
is married. ChUdren, Alice M., Rosa J., Ormelia and John M.

NiLiiOLAS C. LORENTZEN: lives near Denmark; is engaged
in the lumber business; came to county in 1S75; was born in
Denmark, Sweden; is 38 years of age; is married. Children,
Anna M., Lena C, Thyra H. and Camilla F.

P. McCrefry: lives at EUensburg; is foreman in R. D.
Humes' cannery; was born in Ireland; came to state and
county in 1874.

John McVay: lives four miles from. EUensburg; is a stock
raiser; is a native of Ireland; arrived in this state in 1867, and
came to this county in 1868; was married to M. A. McCreery,
in 1866.

William McVay: lives near Chetco; is a dairyman and
farmer; came to state and county in i860; was married in 1854,
to Emiline McCormac. Children, Mary E., Emma, Henry,
Benjamin, Laura, William, Minnie and Augustus.

E. H. Meservev: resides at EUensburg; is engaged in
farming and is watchman in Humes mill; was born in Maine;
arrived in the state and settled in this county in 1853; was
Lieutenant and subsequently Captain in the Rogue river war,
and v\as engaged in several bloody battles.

W. C. -Miller: lives four miles above EUensburg, where
he has a farm; is a native of Dayton, Ohio; arrived in this
state in 1847, and to county in 1S68; married Miss P. A.
Turner, in May 1S55.

A. H. MOORR: resides at EUensburg; is a blacksmith by
occupation; was born in Highland county, Ohio; arrived in
this state in 1850, and came to this county in 1857; was mar-
ried in i860, to Miss S. C. Morrison. Children, Frederick
and Dora E.

H. S. MooRE: is a native of Iowa; came to Curry county in
1S76, now resides in Port Orford; is a farmer.

S. D. MORRISO.N: resides near EUensburg; where he is
employed at sheep raising; address is EUensburg; is a native
of Vermont; arrived in this state and settled in this county in
1868.

Joseph L. Nay: resides five miles north of Port Orford;
and proprietor of Nay's Lumber mUls, and owns 1,000 acres
of land; is a native of West Miland, New Hampshire; and as
yet unmarried.

A. B. Sabin: is a farmer; lives five mUes from Denmark,
Curry county; is a native of New Jersey; is married and has
one child, Walter J.

Raleigh Scott: lives at Mountain Ranch; is a stock
grower; post-office, Chetco; is a native of Lane county. Or.;
came to county in 1872; married Nettie Cooley, October 4,
1874; ~S\x. Scott is an extensive stock grower — sheep a
specialty.

Willard F. and Walter Shoemaker: live with their
mother, Mrs. Mary A. Shoemaker, on Knott hill, five miles
from Denmark; own a large tract of land; were born in Mis-
souri; are 25 and 23 years of age, respectively.

Henry Smith: lives at Smith's Ferry; post-office, Chetco;
is a farmer and ferry keeper; is a native of Prussia: came to
state and county in 1857; was married in 1865 to Hanah J.
Riley.

Frank Smith: was born in New \ ■ ' ' : i- 1'. > ■ ir^ of age;
came to county in i860; is a retail liijr, 1 1 , I it ( )rford.

H. Strahan: resides at EUensburg; , . 1 , , ,..i>cr; was
born in Philadelphia, Penn.; arrived in ihi.-. ^uii^ .lud county
in 1S71: was married to Miss Mary Eubcrg, in 1S68. ChUdren,
Charles G. and William H. Mr. Slr.ihan has a good farm.

Walter Sutton: publisher and proprietor of the Curry
county Post, of EUensburg, is a native of Illinois, and in 1854
came to Oregon, and to Curiy county in 1870; married Feb-
ruary 14, 1877, to Miss Louisa A. Smith. Children, Louisa
A , Walter F. and John A.

Edward Svpher: born in Rogue river valley, in 1865,
and has ever since resided in Curry county.

C. W. Thomas: was born in Pennsylvania; is 53 years of
age; is manager of the sawmill formerly owned by the Port
Orford Cedar Co., at Port Orford, where he resides; is mar-
ried; has three children.

A. H. Thrift: lives on Flora's creek; is a dairyman and
stock raiser; post-office Denmark; was born in Fredericktown,
Kiii.N r.iiiiii\ , I )hio; came to state in 1852, and to county in
1S3;; ni.iiih/i lime 5, 1S67, to Mary J. Goodman. Children.
Annie (.. iiUici^L-d), Edgar B., Rosabel, Alexander, Hattie
.\., .Mviu \., E\a J., and (Eola and LeRoy twins).

J. H. Ui'TON: w"as born in Ohio; came to state in 1853 and
in 1880 located at Port Orford, where he established the Port
Orford Post, which he sold in 1882 and moved on his farm

APPENDIX.

521

iic-ar Denmark, where in August, 1SS3, he established the
Curry County Recorder; is niairied. Children, J. M. and Ar-
thur \V.

Frederick Unican: is a resident of Port Orford; came to
Curry county in July i85i;has a farm three miles north of
Port Orford.

Dr. F. O. Von der Gree.n: lives at Ellensburg; is a phy-
sician; was horn in Munich, Germany; came to state and
county in 1S68; was Uiarried to Miss B. C. Noon, June 6,
1S60. Children, Mary, Blanch, Florence and lk-rtl>"a. Dr.

Von der Green is the only physician in Curry county and has
a large and lucrative practice, and is highly respected .

ROKERT Walker: was born in Canada; lives at Ellens-
burg; is engaged in merchandising; came to state and county
in 1869; was married to Miss Mary li. Frime in 1874. .Mr.
Walker was sheriff of the county one term.

G. B. Wilson: lives on Winchuck; is a fisherman; post-
office, Chetco; came to state and county iu 1868; was born
in Pennsylvania; was married in 1855 to Eunice Violet. Chil-
dren, L. F., G. F., Belle, Lizzie, Nettie and John.

MISCELLANEOUS.

.11 1S57; wa, ,. I - I ■, I- - ■ I ! ,. luirt.

Children, (n-i-- N . 1 ili, I m,, : \ . \ v., ^ A . |..|,n li.,
Fred J. and Florence A.

Richard Cook: is a native of England; was born Febru-
ary 19, 1S36; at the age of about forty years he arrived in
this state, settling in Jacksonville, Jackson county, where he
has since followed mining; he is at present proprietor of a
mine in this county; Mr. Cook was married August 9, 1S60,
to Elizaljeth Harris. They have one son, Richard Jr.

James W. Collins: this old pioneer was born in Pettis
county. Mo., June 13, 1S25; when seven years old his parents
moved to Reves county, (now Henry county) in that state;
thence to St. Clair county, and to Bates county, all in Mis-
souri. On the 6th of May, 1850, he started for California,
overland, arriving in Sacramento on September I, 1S51.
He mined for gold on Feather river about two weeks, then
went to Chico, and his uncle who resided there, gave him an
outfit of six Indians and seven mules with suff.cient provisions
for a trip to Scott river. He remained there until February 5,
1852, when he came to Rogue river valley, where he arrived
the same month, sleeping the first night under an oak tree on
the — now — Gordon ranch. Here he took a donation claim,
where he lived until the fall of 1853, then sold out and went
to Dry creek, stock raising. He next moved to Table Rock
precinct, where he purchased a farm, and lived until
coming to his present ranch near Phreni.x. He claims to have
sown the first grain in Jackson county, and erected the iirst
frame house, the one now on the Gordon ranch. He married
Martha Ann Stow on August 10, 1855. She is a native of
Sangamon county, Illinois.

William Hoff.man: popularly known as "Father Hoff-
man," is an early pioneer of Jackson county, and has always
been one of her most prominent and respected citizens; is a
native of Baltimore, Maryland; came to state and county in
1S53; was married in 1S36 to Caroline Shafer. Children,
Mary H. (Vining), Julia E. (Beekman), Annie I. (Linn), Em-
ma A. (Dorris), Florence E. (Shipley) and Kate F. Mr.
Iloffiuan was first county auditor of Jackson county, and has
ever since held some office of trust.

JcHN Mavitv: an early pioneer of Jackson county, Ore-
gon, now a horticulturist and resident of St. Helena, Napa
county, Cal.; was born in Ripley county, Ind., .\ugust 3.

1829, and came to Oregon in 1852, settling in J.ackson county
in the fall of that year; in 1870 he moved to his present home
in Napa county, Cal. ; was married October 22, 1857, to Miss
Amelia W. Hull, They have four children.'viz: Katie A.,
John M., Willis W. and Carrie B.

Lewis Shideler: was born in Marion county, Indiana,
on November 7, 1827. When twelve years old his parents
took him to Carroll county, in that state, where he was edu-
cated, and raised on a farm. Here he married Diana Harler
on September 14, 1848. He came to Oregon, overland route,
in June, 1870, settling in Linn county. In October 1872, he
moved to Jackson county, settling on his present farm. John
H., a resident of Linn county, Oregon; Etta, Emma, Henry
L., .A.lice, Lucinda, Rebecca and Frank, are his children.

Thomas McF. Patton: an early resident of Jackson
county, but now a member of the legal profession in Salem,
. Oregon; is a native of Carrelton, Ohio, and at an early age
began the study of the law; a short time after his admission to
the bar, he started for the Pacific coast, selecting Oregon for
his future home, arriving within its borders in the fall of
1851; in 1853 Mr. Patton located in Jacksonville and in that
year was elected to the office of county judge, he being the
first to fill that position in Jackson county; two years later, on
the expiration of his term of office, he removed to Salem
where he has since resided. Mr. Patton was united in mar-
riage in 1854 to Miss Francis M. Cook.

GusTAF Wilson: is one of the early pioneers of California
and Southern Oregon; was born June 6, 1828, in Uleaborg,
Finland, Russia; left that country in the year 1842 as a sailor
and came to the United States; in 1845 he returned to his
native country. The following year, October, 1846, he set him-
self westward again, and landed in New Orleans, March,
1849; in March, 1850, he left New York on ship Albanin,
Captain Crowell, by way of Cape Horn, for California, arriv-
ing at San Francisco, October loth of the same year. Went at
once to the gold mines and prospected and worked in almost
every mining camp from Mud Springs, (California, to Jackson
county, Oregon. At the organization of Josephine county by
the territorial legislature in 1855 he was appointed coroner
and the year following was re-elected to the same office. In
1862 he was elected clerk of Josephine county, and again re-
elected in 1864; at the expiration of his second term he re-
moved to Portland and has resided there ever since; is Vice
Consul of Russia in Oregon .

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES.

BENJAMIN C. AGEE was born in Osa^e county; Missouii, September 27, 1837. When but two years of age his
parents moved to DeKalb county, same state, where his father engaged in farming until April 6, 1852, when he, with his par-
ents, ten brothers and four sisters, started with ox teams to cross the plains to Oregon, some of the time being with a large
train of emigrants, but most of the distance being accomplished alone, and after six months of continuous travel they arrived in
Yamhill county, this state, where his father purchased land on Deer creek, and he now resides. Our subject remained under
the parental roof until the age of .21 years. He then engaged in farming on his own account in Yamhill county until 1869,
when he came to Douglas county and purchased his present place of 650 acres, seven miles south of Roseburg, and is now en-
gaged in general farming and stock raising. A view of,his residence will be found in this history. Mr. Agee is married and
has an interesting family of ten children, viz. : Oscar, Holland, Norman, Miles, Minnie, Millie, May, Asher, Rosie and Frederick.

ANDREW G. AIKEN, the subject of this sketch a well known and popular resident of Coquille City, Coos county,
is a native of Law^rence county, Penn., and was born January 12, 1837, and then resided on his father's farm unlil 16 years of
age. :March 18, 1853, he, with his two brothers, John and James, set out to cross the plains with ox teams, and after a weary
trip of six months they arrived in this slate, first locating near Albany. After a short time our subject went to Washington
Territory, where he remained until the fall of 1854, when he again returned to Oregon, this time locating in Coos county, and
engaged in mining near the present site of Newport. On the breaking out of the Indian war on Rogue river, Mr. Aiken
joined Captain Harris' company and took part in that memorable campaign. On the cessation of hostilities, Mr. Aiken
returned to the coal mines on the bay, and followed mining there and on Sixes river until 1858. He then engaged in the lum-
ber business on Coos bay as partner with his brother James, wdiich he continued until 1S75, with the exception of two years
spent in Idaho. In the fall of 1S75 he paid a visit to his old home in Pennsylvania, and on his return to Coos county in the
spring, was nominated on the Democratic ticket for the office of sherift" of that county, a position he was elected to at the fol-
lowing election, and two years later was re-elected to the same oflfice. On the expiration of his term of office, Mr. Aiken
located in Coquille City, and in 1882 built his present commodious residence, in which he now resides, a view of his home
being placed in this work. Mr. Aiken is a gentleman whom it is a pleasure to meet, being generous and hospitable to a fault.
He now enjoys the comforts of a happy home, and the respect and confidence of the entire people of the county in which he
resides. He was united in marriage in Coquille City, May 25, 1874, to Miss Augusta Cunningham. By this union they have
one son and one daughter, Charles G. and Ahce O.

ALBERT ALFORD. — The subject of our memoir is a native of Chariton county, Missouri, and born May 4, 1833.
Here he was educated. In 1S50 he crossed the plains to Oregon, accompanying his parents, who settled in Linn county,
where he married Catherine Brinker, on December iS, 1853. She was born in Missouri, on December 24, 183S. Mr. Alford
continued to reside in Linn county up to 1869, when he came to Jackson county, Oregon, and settled near Table Rock. In
1874 he moved to Talent, and is now a resident of the place. He was elected county commissioner from Eden precinct in
1880, and re-elected in 1882, which office he still holds. A view of his residence can be found in another part of this work.
His children are: Russell A., born March 16, 1855, Masas L., born April 27, 1857, Alice, born February 13, 1859, and
Amanda O., born February 7, 1862.

HASKELL AMY: — Born in Vermont, on August 19, 1831. When quite young his parents took him to Knox
county, Illinois, where he was reared on a farm and educated in the laiblic schools. In the spring of 1S52 he crossed the plains
to Oregon, and settled at that time in Jackson county. In the fall of 1858 he purchased his present farm and took up his
residence thereon, where he has continuously lived to the present time. He went to Illinois on a visit via the ocean route in
1866, returning the same year overland with a team. He married Mahala McDaniel on May 3, 1859. She died on Sep-
tember 19, 1861. The maiden name of his present wife was Jessie Bledsoe, to whom he was married in 1874. One child by
his first wife, whose name is Frank. Two children by his second marriage, Laura and Albert. A view of the residence of
this old settler is in this history.

HONORABLE LINDSAY APPLEGATE. The subject of this sketch, whose portrait appears in this work, was
born in Henry county, Kentucky, September 18, 1808. In 1820 the family emigrated to Missouri and settled near St. Louis,
then a small French village. Educational advantages were poor, and as a consequence young Lindsay had received but little
education up to his fifteenth year, when, with a few young associates, he escaped from home and enlisted under General Ashley,
of St. Louis, for a trapping expedition to the Rocky mountains. One division of the expedition with the heavy baggage
ascended the Missouri river, while the remainder with pack trains proceeded by land. At the Pawnee town the river party
was attacked and defeated by the Indians and driven back to Council Bluffs. Here young Applegate and others were taken
sick and sent with the wounded back to St. Louis. After this he returned home, but his restless spirit longed for a more adven-
turous life than was there afforded him, and he followed trading on the Mississippi river for a time, then worked for a while in
the newly discovered lead mines at Galena, Illinois, and afterwards served as a volunteer in the famous Black Hawk war under
General Whiteside. In January, 1831, he was mairied, in Cole county, Missouri, to Elizabeth Miller, and soon after moved to
southwestern ilissouri, where he erected the first sawmill built in that part of the state. In 1843 he crossed the plains to Ore-
gon, and became a settler in Polk county, where in 1S44 he served as a member of the first volunteer company organized to

APPENDIX. 523

protect tlienew settlements against the Indians. In 1S46 he was one of tlie fifteen men who hunted out the South Road from
the Willamette valley to Fort Hall. He went to the newly discovered gold mines in Calilornia in 1848, making the trip by
land and returned the same year by water. In 1850 he raised a company and went with General Lane in pursuit and to the
capture of the deserting regulars from Oregon City. In 1850 he moved to the Umpqua, where he served as special Indian
agent under General Palmer. Captain Lindsay Applegale raised a detachment. of Mounted Oregon Volunteers and was mus-
tered into the service of the United .States for the war against the Rogue River Indians on the 22d of August, 1853. The
detachment marched on the 24th of August from Winchester, Umpqua valley, to Camp Alden near Table Rock, Rogue river
valley, the headquarters of General Lane, and thence to Myrtle creek, Umpqua valley, where September 7, 1853, it was dis-
charged from the service. Mr. Applegate was mustered as captain of the company and was with (Jeneral Lane when the
treaty was made with the Indians near Table Rock. In 1859 he moved to the Toll House, Siskiyou mountains, Jackson county
and took charge of the toll road from that place to the California state line which he then owned. In 1S61, as a captain of
the Rogue river volunteers, he went to the plains east of the Siskiyou mountains to protect the emigrants coming to Oregon.
Mr. .•\pplegate was selected from among his compeers to represent Jackson county in the assembly of Oregon in 1862, and
acted under Superintendent Rector as special Indian agent for Southern Oregon. In 1864 he was interpreter at the Klamath
and Modoc treaty and in the ensuing year was appointed sub-agent and served at Klamath until 1869, when he was removed to
mal;e room for a military agent. As a proof of Mr. Applegate's unswerving honesty while acting as Indian, agent we quote
from his final discharge and last settlement. " Vour account for disbursements in the Indian service from January I, 1868, up
to January i, 1869, has been adjusted and a balance found due you of $42.or, differing that amount from your last account,
as explained in the accompanying statement. Signed, E. B. FRENCH, Auditor."

There are those who -believe had Lindsay Applegate remained in charge of the Lake Indians all would have gone well
and that the bloody drama of the Modoc war would never have been played. Mr. Applegate resides at his old home in Ashland,
Jackson county, Oregon. He has one of those restless and strong spirits which hew out the way for civilization in the wilder-
ness and who are nevertheless willing to aid liberally in promoting the refining influences of an advancing people.

CHARLES APPLEGATE.— This earlypioneerofOregon and Douglas county was born in Henry county,5Kentucky,
January 24, 1806, and died in Yoncalla, Douglas county, Oregon, August 9, 1879. If ail the eventsand experiences of this pioneer
could be chronicled they would make interesting reading for the occupants of the happy homes that now dot the country
which he found a wilderness and inhabited by little else than the savages and wild beast. Suffice it to say thai now that
his labors are ended, let the thronging thousands who shall enjoy this beautiful land, remember that his strong arms helped to
subdue this far western wilderness and prepared it for civilized man. When he was 15 years of age Mr. Applegate's parents
moved to St. Louis county, Missouri, and in 1829 our subject was united in marriage to Miss Malinda Miller, and with her and
a small number of emigrants started on May 15, 1843, for Oregon. The fall of that year found them settled in the Willamette
valley where he resided until 1850 when he came to Douglas county locating near the present site of Yoncalla, where he resided
until his death.

W. H. ATKINSON.— Among the prominent settlers of Ashland is the subject of this memoir; he was born near
Bradford, England, November 30, 1844. When two years old, his parents emigrated to the United States, and settled in
Onondaga county. New York. In the year 1849 the family settled in Racine county, Wis. ; thence to Walworth county in that
state in 1856, where he was married to Eugenia L. Curtis, November 15, 1868. In the year 1874 with his wife he crossed the
plains by rail, and settled at Ashland, Jackson county. On his arrival here, he purchased an interest in the "Ashland Flouring
mill," and soon after entered into partnership with General J. M. McCall, in the mercantile trade. In 1879, he became one of
the partners, and business manager of the Ashland Woolen Manufacturing Company, which position he has maintained to the
present writing. He has held prominent offices in the Masonic fraternity, and was one of the instigators in bringing about (he
erection of the Masonic block of Ashland.

H. F. BARRON resides at Barron and is a farmer, stock raiser and hotel keeper. He was born in Lee county, Vir-
ginia, and came to Jackson county, Ogn, in Oct., 1851. He was married August 18, 1856, to Martha A.Walker. Their children
arc Alice, Edgar, George and Homer. Mr. Barron, whose two residences are elsewhere illustrated in this book, possesses
lari;c landed and stock interests, his stock being mainly horses, cattle and sheep.

HON. THOMAS FLETCHER BEALL; born in Montgomery county, Maryland, on the 27th, of August 1827. He
with his parents, moved in 1834, to Springfield, Sangamon county 111. Here was educated and resided until 1852,
he crossed the plains with his brother R. V. Beall, with miUe teams, arriving in Oregon on July 18, I852, and settled
in Rogue river valley, at Central Point, September 27, 1852, on a donation claim. He purchased his present place, south from
Central Point, in 1858, where he has since lived. In 1853, he was engaged in packing between Jacksonville and Scottsburg.
On one of his return trips from Scottsburg, a Spaniard stole one ol his mules. He followed him into Lane county, caught him
and got possession of the mule, chastising the Spaniard, and on his return to Rogue river valley fell in company with (Jeneral
Lane, Pleasant Armstrong, Michael Hanly and others, taking the Kearney route. After making a three days journey, the
party found themselves without provisions, and although it was strictly against orders to discharge fire arms, Mr. Beall came
across a deer-after they had camped— and disobeying orders, killed the deer, brought it to camp, and fortunately for him was
not punished other than seeing his companions partake of the deer meat. They proceeded on their journey safely to Rogue river
valley. Mr. Beall continued the packing business until 1856, and has followed farming and stock raising since that time, he
and his brother being the largest wheat growers in Jackson county, owning jointly and severally 2,548 acres of land. He was
elected to the Assembly of Oregon in 1864, holding the office one term. He married Ann Hall on November 10, 1859; she is
a native of Champaigne county, Ohio, and was born January 3, 1838. Children, Benjamin, Asbury, Clara, Carrie, Thomas,
Lee, Tvscm and Lucind.-v.

ROBERT VINTON BEALL was born on the isth of June 1831, in Montgomery county, Maryland. He with his
parents moved to Sangamon county. 111., in 1S34. Here he was educated. With his brother T. F. Beall hc emigrated to

524 ' APPENDIX.

Oregon, arriving at Oregon City July i8. 1852. He came to this county on the 27th of September of that year and settled on
his present farm south of Central Point. Here he has lived ever since with the e.xception of six months. He has been engaged
in farming and stock raising. He married Ann Maria Riddle, on the 19th of April 1864; she was born in Sangamon county,
111., on April 19th, 1S47. Children, Mary and Robert V.

HON. C. C. BEEKMAN. — The reminiscences of the early pioneers of the Pacific coast must ever possess a pecu-
liar interest for the Oregonian. Green in their memory will ever remain the trials and incidents of early life in this land of
golden promise. These pioneers of civilization constitute no ordinary class of adventurers. Resolute, ambitious and endur-
ing, looking into the great and possible future of this western slope, and possessing the sagacious mind to grasp true conclu-
.sions, and the indomitable will to execute just means to attain desired ends, these heroic pioneers, by their subsequent career,
have proved that they were equal to the great mission assigned them, that of carrying the real essence of American civilization
from their ea.stern homes and planting it upon the shores of another ocean. Among the many who have shown their fitness for
the tasks assigned them, none merit this tribute more fully than the subject of this sketch, whose portrait appears in this w^ork.
He was born in New York city, January 27, 1828. He received his education in the public schools, and while yet in his
minority he learned the carpenter's trade. In the year 1850 he sailed from New York, coming via. the isthmus of
Panama, and arrived in San Francisco in the fall of that year. He went to Sawyer's Bar, where he was engaged as a miner;
tlience to Yreka working at his trade, after which we find him at Scott's Bar, mining; returning to Yreka, where, in 1S53, he
entered the employ of Cram, Rogers & Co., as express messenger between that pkce, Jacksonville and Crescent City. He
was often obliged to cross the Siskiyou mountains under cover of darkness on account of hostile Indians. He retained this
"position until the failure of Adams & Co. in 1856, which carried down with it the house of Cram, Rogers & Co. He then
commenced carrying express on his own account, resuming his perilous trips across the mountains until a stage road was built
and the stages of the old California Stage Company put on the route. In 1863, when Wells, Fargo & Co. completed their
overland connections with Portland, they tendered Mr. Beekman the agency at Jacksonville, which he accepted, and has been
retained up to the present time with credit and ability. During Mr. Beekman's term of service as express messenger on his
own and others' account, he has handled millions of money, and, in fact, more than any other man in Southern Oregon; and
his retention and promotion by his employers is a sufficient guarantee for his unswerving honesty and integrity. Investing his
earnings judiciously, Mr. Beekman has amassed a fortune, not by miserly conduct; not by oppressing the poor; not by taking
advantage of the necessities of his fellow men, but by strict observance to business principles, and a careful management of his
own affairs. As a financier and a man of ability, he is the peer of any man in Southern Oregon. To prove this, if proof was
necessary, we call the attention of our readers to the (acts that Mr. Beekman has been repeatedly elected one of the trustees of
Jacksonville, and for several terms held the honorable position of mayor, or president of the board. He has also held the
office of school director for nine years, and it was mainly through his business tact that the commodious school building was
erected, and, withal, his love for educational advancement has placed the standard of education for the young, on a plane that
would do credit to a larger town. The year 187S wdl be ever memorable to him, for, without the slightest effort on his part,
he was selected by the republican party from among his compeers and placed in nomination for governor of Oregon. This was
a closely contested and hard fought battle. Mr. Beekman's popularity was so great that he was supported not only by repub-
licans, but by a large number of democrats in Southern Oregon. He was defeated by his democrat opponent. Gov. W. W.
Thayer, \>y forty-nine votes. The closest scrutiny into the life of Mr. Beekman demonstrates the fact that no man can find a
blemish in his character. Notwithstanding he is wealthy, you could not observe that from his conduct. He is not like many
men of means — supercilious. He knows himself, and that is half the battle of life. He tries to do no man wrong, having
lived up to the golden rule all his life. He resides in Jacksonville, Jackson county, one of the prettiest spots in Oregon, where
he has made many warm friends and keeps them. He often says with Sydney Smith: " Let every man be occupied, and
occupied in the highest employment of which his nature is capable, and die with the consciousness that he has done his best."
It were well if our young state had many such generous and enterprising men as C. C. Beekman. He married Julia E. Hoff-
man, daughter of Wiliam Hoffman, and by this union they have one daughter and one son.

HENRY BECKLEY. — In the gentleman whose name heads this brief sketch, v\'e have one of Douglas county's most
energetic, prosperous and generous business men. Mr. Beckley was born in Switzerland county, Indiana, January 4, 1833,
and at the age of twenty years came to the Pacific coast, and arrived in Douglas county in 1859, and engaged in farming near
the present site of Elkton. In 1864 he was married to Miss Mary M. Woodson. In connection with the management of his
large farm, consisting of 1,700 acres, he is engaged in the saw and grist mill business, and also in the genera! merchandise trade
at Elkton ; a view of his mill and store property being placed in this work. He has a family of ten children. Their names
are : John W., James H., Charles L., Mary J., Susan K., Virlena, Margarette, Pitsor W., Jessie L. and Clyde P.

JOHN OWEN BOOTH, is the son of Rev. Robert Booth a well known minister of the Methodist church, is a native of
Lee county, Iowa, born January 18, 1S47. When John was about five years of age his parents concluded to seek a milder climate
than that of Iowa and selected Oregon as their future home, leaving Iowa April 13, 1852, and with ox teams set out to cross the
plains to the Pacific coast, and after an unusually severe journey of six months they arrived at The Dalles October 7, of the same
year. His parents first located near the Grand Ronde reservation in Yamhill county and there our subject attended school and
resided until 1864, when they changed their residence to Sheridan in the same county until 1867 when he with his parents came
to Douglas county first locating near Wilbur where his father now resides. There our subject finished his education and
resided until 1871. In June 1870, Mr. Booth was elected on the Democratic ticket to the office of county school superinten-
dent, an office he filled to the entire satisfaction of the people. October 8, 1871, he was united in marriage to his estimable wife
Mrs. Ann Eliza Labrie, a native of 111., by whom he has two daughters and one son, viz: Nettie Blanch born October 14, 1872,
Annie L. born May 16, 1874, and John M. born September 17, 1S76. In 1871 Mr. Booth took up his residence in Garden
valley, since which time he has been engaged in general farming and fruit raising on his present well improved farm of 480
acres, on which he built in 1878 a fine residence a view of which will be found in this work.

APPENDIX. 525

HON. BEMAN B. BROCKWAY.-The subiect of this sketch, a view of whose residence will I,e found in this
work, was born in Chataqua county, New York, February 12, 1829, remaining in the place of his birth and under the parental
roof until attaining the age of twenty-two years. Mr. Brockway then concluded to seek his fortune in the golden west, and
consequently on April 23, 1852, he started from his home in company with his brother Burban, and came to Naperville, 111.
At this point they secured ox teams and joining a large train there, set out to cross the plains to the Webfodt State, arriving
in Josephine county some six months later. Our suhject then embarked in mining in the above county and Jackson for about
eight years. He then, in i860, gave up the occupation of miner, and concluded to become a tiller of the soil, and selected
Douglas county as his future liome, and at that time purchased his present valuable farm consisting of 400 acres, located in the
Civil Bend district, on which he has built a handsome residence and made many valuable improvements. Do'iglas county
has twice been honored by the services of Mr. Brockway in an official capacity. First as n county commissioner, and at the
June election of iSSo, he was elected to the state legislature as representative of Donglas county, a position he filled with the
utmost satisfaction to his constituents.

HON. HENRY G. BROWN, is a prominent farmer and stock grower, living four miles west of Elklon, and pos-
sesses a valuable farm of 1,280 acres, on which he located in 1852. Mr. Brown is a native of Coos county. New Hampshire,
born January 15, 1833. He left New Hampshire in the spring of 1852, to come to Oregon. On arrival in this state he
came direct to Douglas county, and located on his present farm. At the Republican convention of Douglas county in 1882,
Mr. Brown was nominated as candidate for the legislature, and at the subsequent election was chosen by a handsoitie majority
to an office he filled with abiUty and good judgment, and to the entire satisfaction of his constituents. He was united in mar-
riage to Miss Pricilla .Stearns. They have five children, viz : Hattie S., .Samuel H., Ellen M., Caroline and M.arthee. -A view
of Mr. Brown's fine residence, built in 1S83, is placed in this work.

JAMES D. BURNETT, a prominent farmer and stock grower of Round Prairie, Douglas county, is a native of
Blunt county, Tenn., and was born March 12, 1822. When 28 years of age he started for the Pacific coast and came to
Oregon, first locating in .Salem. In 1852 he came to Douglas county and settled on part of his present valuable farm, a view of
which appears in this work, to which he has since added until now he owns some 1,200 acres of land. Mr. Burnett was mar-
ried in Tenn., to Miss Margaret Love, by wliich union they had seven children, vis: M.artha, Francis, Mary, Lydia, Thomas B.
and Virginia C. the latter now deceased.

JOSEPH CELLERS. — A w ell known and popular merchant of Drain, Douglas county, was born in JefTerson county,
Ohio, June 3, 1834, and there resided until eighteen years of age. He then went west and resided in Iowa and Missouri, until
his coming to this coast, which event occurred in 1875, and selected Douglas county as his future home. Mr. Cellers first
engaged in farming, and a few years later started his present general merchandise store in Drain, but still retains his valuable
farm two miles east of the latter town. An excellent view of his farm residence will be found in this work. Mr. Cellers is a
member of the Masonic and Odd Fellows orders, in both of which he has taken an active interest ; and is a pleasant and
affable gentleman with whom it is a pleasure to meet. He was married in 1865, to Miss Mary J. Barber, and has a family of
nine children.

JOHN H. CHAPMAN, a view of whose valuable farm and residence will be found in this work, is a native of Galia
county, Ohio, born August 15,1825. He was married April 23, 1S50, to Miss Martha A. Eells. In 1854 crossed the plains
and came direct to Douglas county and in that year located on his present farm, situated on the banks of the North Umpqua
river nineteen miles east of Roseburg where he is engaged in general farming and stock raising.

ISAAC CONSTANT, born in Clark county, Ky., on the Sth of April, 1809. The family started for the stale of
Illinois about the year 1812, but stopped at Green county, Ohio, and in the year 1820 arrived in Illinois, and settled in 'San-
gamon county. Here Mr. Constant lived and was raised on a farm. He crossed the plains to Oregon in 1849, and being
pleased with the couhtry returned to Ills., in 1850. In 1852 he brought his family overland to Orcg<m and settled on his
present ranch at Central Point. He married Lucinda Merryman, on the 14, of February, 1833. Mrs. Levenia Robinson,
Mrs. Elizabeth Lever, Mrs. Julia Owens and Mrs. Maria Magruder, are his children.

JUDGE S. J. DAY. — Silas J. Day, residence Jacksonville, occupation. County Judge of Jackson county, Oregon,
was elected thereto in June 1S76. Born in Ann Arundel county, Md., April 3, 1826; came to San Fr.incisco, Cal., April
1S49, and to Oregon in April 1S51. Married in Portland, Oregon, May 22, 1871, to Mary E. McGce, who was born in Boon
county. Mo., November 22, 1841. Children, Mary L., Edward M., Silas E. and Elsie C. Judge Day was elected Orderly Ser-
geant in Captain Miles F. Alcorns Co. "G." 9th Regiment Oregon Militia, October 10, 1855, and mustered in pursuanceof the
proclamation of the Governor, to serve against the \'akima and other Indians. March 21, 1856, was promoted to First Lieut.
of the Co., in place of James M. Matney resigned; was mustered out of service June 13, 1856. By an act of the legislative assem-
bly of the state of Oregon, approved October 23, 1872, Judge Day was appointed one of the board of commissioners for the laying
out and constructing a wagon road through Jackson, Grant, and Baker counties, (known as the Southern Oregon wagon ro.-»d);
he was elected chairman of the board, on its organization, and continued as such until July 1874, at which time said board dis-
banded having completed the purposes for which it was forined.

PHILIP DA MOTTA. — This well known tonsorial artist of Roseburg, is a native of the Cape Verde Islands, and
some seven years ago came to Roseburg and opened a Barber Shop, when after a few years of close application to business he
was enabled to purchase a lot on which he erected his present business building a two story frame structure, the upper part
being used by the United States Signal Service, while the lower part he has fitted up in an elegant manner as a Barber Shop
and Bath rooms. Mr. DaMotta has invested in land from time to time in the vicinity of Roseburg until he owns some 1,500
acres located on the Deer creek valley road.

B. F. DOWELL. — Benjamin F. Dowell was born in Albemarle county, Virginia, October 31, 1826. He was named
in honor of the great philosopher, Ben Franklin, who was an uncle to his grandmother. The parents of the subject of thi":
sketch were both natives of the state in which their son was born— both having been born within a mile of e.ach other. Mr.

5'26 APPENDIX.

Dowell's mother, originally Miss Fannie Dalton, was a lady of culture and refinement, and was of Scottish descent, while the
Dowells are traced back to English nativity. When but a child young Benjamin, with his parents, moved to Shelby county,
Tenn., where he acquired a liberal education at the male academy. After having finished his academic studies, he returned to
Virginia and entered the State University, where he graduated in law in 1847, before he was twenty-one years old. After com-
pleting the course young Dovvell went back to Tennessee, where he practiced his profession with good success until 1S50, when
he was imbued with the spirit, " W.estward the course of empire takes its way," and accordingly followed the human tide into
the gold regions of California. Having taken the cholera soon after his arrival in Sacramento, he was advised by his physician
to go north. Mr. Dowell started for Portland, Oregon, in a small schooner, which after being driven back to sea from the
mouth of the Columbia, finally reached its port, seriously damaged, after thirty-five days' sailing. Mr Dowell stopped in the
Willamette valley a short time, and then moved, in 1852, to Southern Oregon. Here he engaged in trading and packing until
1856. In 1857 he again resumed the practice of law, settled in Jacksonville, where he still resides, and is one of the most
widely known attorneys in the state. In 1861 our subject married Miss Anna Campbell. They have now a family of three
children, Fannie, Annie and B. F. Jr. In iS62he was elected prosecuting attorney. In 1865 he bought the Oregon Sentinel,
which, under his administration, was the first Pacific slope paper to advocate the enfranchisement of the negroes, and the first
to nominate General Grant for the presidency.

JAMES RUFUS DODGE, was born in Lanesboro, Berkshire county, Massachusetts, August 29, 1S17, and is a
descendant of poor but honest parents that were unable to give him the advantages of a good education, but at the tender age of
nine years James was placed as an apprentice with a Mr. Butler in his native town to learn the clothiers trade. After three
years of faithful work at this business he concluded to try and better his condition and young as he was he was impressed with
the belief that he could do better so he conveyed his ideas to his employer but was met with a rebuff and a contemptuous "what
can you do?" But on consultation of his parents and employer it was agreed to let our subject try something else. His first
venture was into the hay fields where he hired with a man for one month for which he received as compensation seven dollars ;
with this as his capital he started for Troy, N. Y., from whence he went to Canandagua county and worked on a farm for one
year and the following summer hired for $12 per month as a driver on the Erie Canal. And in the fall went in the employ of a
Dr. Wells for one year at a salary of four dollars per month. His next move was to enter the employ of a manufacturing firm
to learn the carriage and coach trimming trade but on account of a weak wrist was compelled to give this up at the end of one
year. He then served a term of four years at the blacksmiths trade in Leroy, N. Y., receiving as salary thirty dollars per year,
and furnish his own clothes but while others slept Mr. Dodge could be found at his forge and by night work he made an average
salary of sixty dollars per year. On the expiration of his time he returned to Massachusetts and was employed in a rail road
blacksmith shop, he now being a first class workman received full pay and the world began to look brighter and he continued at
his trust in different places among which were Rochester, Cincinnati, Dayton and Columbus, finally locating in Montezuma,
Indiana, here he engaged in business for himself and here it was that he formed the acquaintance of the lady who afterwards
became his devoted companion through lifes journey. He was married on March 7, 1840, to Helen Mary Allen, a daughter of
Dr. John Allen. He resided in Indiana for twelve years, when failing health made it necessary for him to seek a milder climate,
so consequently on March 17, 1852, he started, with his family, towards the setting sun and crossed the great plains with
out any serious accident and arrived in Linn county, Oregon, about the first of November, of that year. Remaining in that
county but a short time he moved to the forks of the Santiam river and there started a blacksmith shop. After a short stay
here he was advised by his friend Morgan Keys to come to the Umpqua country and he there settled at the mouth of Green
\alley creek on the Calapooia in what was then Umpqua county. And now for over thirty years Mr. Dodge has been a resident
of the Umpqua valley, and since his arrival has been engaged in blacksmithing, merchandizing, farming and stock raising, being
extensively engaged in the latter at the present time, and is now a gentleman of large means owning some 6,000 acres of
rich farming land near Oakland, Oregon, where he resides. A view of his town and country residences will be found among the
illustrations of this work.

HON. CHARLES DRAIN, whose portrait, together with that of his estimable wife, very approjiriately finds a place in
this history, was born near Lancaster, Lancaster county, Penn., December 28, 1816, and was the second son of Charles and
Esther Wilson Drain. When Charles was but five years old his parents moved to Shelby county, Indiana, with the intention of
embarking in agricultural pursuits. But on entering the then almost wilderness of Indiana, little did they dream what a few
short months would bring forth, for at the end of the second month in Shelby county the head of the family was taken sud-
denly with a congestive chill and a few days thereafter died. And six short weeks from the death of her husband the mother of
our subject passed away. Thus the home circle was broken up, and the children, three sons and one daughter, found homes
among strangers, and from that time the recollections of the one living (our subject) are of a transient dwelling place, sepa-
arated from each other and of an early necessity to look to their own resources for that which other children, more fortunate,
-instinctively seek through the affections of a mother. Charles first found a home for two years with a Mr. Mitchell and then
was adopted by Mr. John Duncan, an I with him went to reside in Marion county, same state, where he lived until sixteen )-ears
of age. Then, on account of his guardian not being disposed to allow him to attend school, he concluded to leave and first
found employment on a farm which he followed for the three succeeding years. He then, in 1836, went to Quincy, 111., and
here learned the trade of plasterer and resided until 1838. He then returned to Shelby county, Indiana, and the scenes of
his early childhood, and in February, 1839, was married, and then leased land and engaged in farming until the spring of 1842.
We next find him with his family in Van Buren county, Iowa, engaged in farming. In the spring of 1850 Mr. Drain, like
many hundreds of others, concluded to brave the dangers of a trip across the plains, to seek his fortune in the gold fields of
California, and set out from his home in Van Buren county, Iowa, with some fifteen companions and with good outfits and an
abundant supply of provisions, but'being of generous disposition, qualities which he still retains, he was too free to give to the
needy whom he met on the plains, and consequently, on arriving at the sink of the Humboldt our little party found their supply
of provisions exhausted, and then began sufferings and privations w hich only those who have been placed in like situations can

APPENDIX. ry27

understand. Mr. Drain then followed mining at Hangtown, now I'lacervillc, for a short time and then engaged in rtercanlile
business in Nevada county, which he continued until 1851, when he returned, via. Panama, to his Iowa home. But being so
favorably impressed with the climate of the Pacific coast, he concluded to make his fulure home on her shores. April 20, 1852,
found him with his wife, two daughters and one son, again on the road across the piains, this time to seek a home in one of the
fertile valleys of Oregon, and arrived in Marion county, September 20, 1852, and settled on a farm some ten miles from Albany,
and there followed farming for eight years. Mr. Drain, in 1854, -was elected a member of the territorial council, and re-elected
in 1867, and on the admission of the territory into the Union as a state, Mr. Drain was elected to the state senate for four'
years, he having drawn the long term. While a member of the senate Mr. Drain was elected by his colleagues to the respon
sible position of president of the senate. In i860 he leased his farm in the Willamette valley and resigned his seat in the
state senate and selected Douglas county as his future home, at that lime locating on his present valuable farm, then consisting
of 320 acres, to which he has since added by purchase some 1,7000 more. In 1S71 Mr. Drain donated sixty acres (o the
Oregon and California Railroad Company for depot purposes and at that time laid out the beautiful and thriving town which
now bears his name. Mr. Drain has many warm personal friends throughout tHe state, and no man stands higher in all those
principles retiuired to mark the true man, and now, after an active life of almost thiee-quarters of a century, he is prepared to
take the comforts of a well spent and prosperous life. Mr. Drain was united in marriage in Bartholomew county, Indiana
I-Vl)ruary 12, 1839, to Miss Nancy G. Ensley, a daughter of John and Catherine Gates Ensley, and was born in Venango
cijunty, Penn., May 20, 1817, and when eight years of age moved with her parents to Indiana, locating in the county in which
she was married. By this union they have had eight children, five of whom are deceased. Those living are John C, the lead-
ing merchant of Drain, and who has already been a member of the assembly for Douglas county, and while there filled the
honorable position of speaker of the house, Catherine A., now Mrs. Simon R. Lane; and Charles D., also in the mercantile
business with his brother. In conclusion, we would say that Mr. and Mrs. l5rain have raised a family of children in a manner
that reflects credit upon them as persons possessing practical sense. Each and every one of their children has beeif educated
to look upon life, not as the idle drones upon the honey srored for them by the working bees in the hive; but as a period blocked
out of time in which they are to accomplish something by their own acts that will not be a discredit to themselves and the name
they bear. To Mr. Drain and men of his kind Southern Oregon owes its,present prosperity and future success.

JOHN EMMITT.— This influential and wealthy farmer and early resident of Cole's valley, is one of those who
came to Douglas county with small means, but through industry, -integrity, and correct business principles, he has acctmiulated
a fortune sufficient to retire from the active pursuits of agriculture. Mr. Emmitt was born in Northumberland county, Penn-
sylvania, October 12, 1S27, and came to Douglas county, Oregon, m 1852, and at that time located on the farm' where he now
resides. The incidents that have come under Mr. Emmitt's observation, and in some of which he took a part, would not be
least among the great mass that constitute the advance guard of civilization west of the Rockies. There are hundreds, yes,
thonsands, of similar experiences, varying only in the kind of danger or misfortune that hovered along their trail. With ore
it was sickness, and anothtr poverty, while a third met starvation or the Indian onslaught, and a record of them in full would
make another Alexandrian library. Does not a pioneer deserve all the benefits that fortune has dealt out to him, and in many
cases much that the fickle goddess has withheld ? A view of the premises where Mr. Emmitt resides is placed among the
illustration of this work. In connectfon with his home farm he possesses a large tract of rich farming land, some four miles
south of his residence. Mr.- Emmitt was married in 1847, to Miss Caroline Thompson. By this union they had twelve
childreri, three of whom are deceased. Those living are : Robert A., John F., Willie A., Letha E., Edward E., Rosaline
M., Samuel E., Canira J. and Kittie R. •

MRS. SARAH A. FARNHAM, lermerly Miss Billings, and wile of the late Allen F. Farnham, was born May 12,
1S33, in Litchfield, Maine. Here she grew to womanhood, receiving a liberal education. Local facilities did not furnish the
means for a thorough education, such as she resolved to possess, so she went to Charleston, Mass., and entered the Female
Seminary, where she graduated in the class of 1856. Two years later Miss Billings married Allen F. Farnham, who was
born in Woolwich, Maine, December 7, 1822. Her.husband had ligtn a student in the Bowdoin college, but was turned from
his purpose of taking a degree by the gold excitement in CaliforiAi in 1849. In May, 1850, Mr. Farnham arrived in California
and finally reached Scott's bar, on Scott's river, Siskiyou county, where he anchored permanently, engaging in minmg. Imlus-
try and enterprise, coupled with good judgment made hirr»one among a tliousand to make mining a success. The builders of
tlie Eagle mills near Ashland borrowed money from him to complete that enterprise, which means were never withdrawn, but
afterward applied on stock in the company; later, Mr. Farnham became sole proprietor of this property, which he retained and
operated until his death, August" 16, 1876. Mr. Farnham went to Jackson connly, Oregon, in November, 1S64, and has
since made several trips across the continent. Mrs. Farnham lives in her commodious residence near Ashland, an illustration
of which appears in this volume. The family consists of three children, Emma Eugenia, Clarence and Walter.

JAMES L. FERREY. — In the gentleman whose name heads this sketch, we have one of Marshfield's most enter-
prising business men; and few who sojourn in Coos county but will recognize the name as thai of one of the proprietors of the
well known and popular hostelry, the " Blanco Hotel." Mr. Ferrey was born in Schuylkill county, Penn., February 9, 1841,
and there resided until sixteen years of .age. His parents then moved to Luzerne county, same stale. At the .age of nhiclcen
years our subject began the catpenter's trade, at which he continued until 1862. He ihen, at the call of his country, enlisted
in company A. 136th Pennsylvania volunteers, infantry,for the term of three years, serving some tfli monljis with his regiment.
Mr. Ferrey was then transferred to the construction corps of the western army, and at one lime had charge of building roa<ls
anil bridges. On his return from the war, Mr. Ferrey again began to work at his trade of carpenter, in diflerent places, until
:S69, when we find him in New York city, where he was joined by his brother Joseph, who had been out to this coast, and
returned east. By him our subject "Was induced to come to Oregon, arriving in Coos Bay March 1871. The first few years
were spent in diflerent parts of the county, and at diflerent employments, until 1873, when he, with S. S. Bailey, came to
Marshfield and leased a small building for a hotel, located on the present site of the " Blanco Hotel." After ten years of

528 APPENDIX.

patient toil and close application to businesss Mr. F. has changed from the smail building in which he began, to his present
commodious and first class hotel, a view of which will be found in this work. Mr. Ferrey is ably assisted in his eflbrts to
accommodate by his partner, Mrs. Holland. He was married in Roseburg, Douglas county, to Miss Henrietta Trott. They
have three children, viz: George W., Eva E. and James L., Jr.

PATRICK FLANAGAN. — This pioneer of the Pacific coast and well known resident of Southern Oregon, is a
native of county Antrim, Ireland, and is now in his fifty-ninth year. When eighteen years of age he came to America, and
first settled in New York. The year 1849 found him among the Argonauts coming to the gold fields of California. He fol-
lowed mining in that state until 1S53, when he came to Coos county, and with Mr. S. S. Mann, purchased the now wellknown
Newport coal mines. The partnership lasted over thirty years, and to our subject belongs the greater part of the credit of
opening and development of the Coos bay coal fields. Mr. Flanagan sold out his interest in the mines in January, 1S84, to
the Newport Coal Company, but is still retained as superintendent. Mr. F. is a genial and hospitable man, highly respected
and honored by the community in which he lives — is married and has an interesting family of seven children. -

A. R. FLINT. — The genealogy of Mr. Flint's family extends back to Thomas Flint, whose first record appears in
Salem, Massachusetts, in 1650— conclusive evidence showing that his mother was there in 1642 — and that they came from
Wales in Great Britain. A. R. Flint — the subject of this sketch — is in the seventh generation from Thomas Flint, and was
barn in North Reading, Massachusetts, August 17, 1808. While attending the Teacher's seminary, at Andover, Massachu-
setts, particular attention was given to surveying and engineering. While there. Colonel Long, of the U. S. army (discoverer
of Long's Peak in the Rocky mountains), permitted him, with his class, to take part in the preliminary survey of a railroad
fro.n Belfast, Maine, to Quebec — thus putting theory into practice. In 1846 engaged in a preliminary survey of a railroad from
fro.Ti Valparaiso to Santiago, Chili, from which place, with his family, he sailed for California, attracted by the gold excite-
ment, ariiving in San Francisco in 184S. In 1848-9, he surveyed Goat island, and laid out what was then known as South
San Francisco. Came to Oregon in 1850 to lay out the town of Winchester ; returning to San Francisco came again, with
family, on the first steamer that came into Umpqua river. Was postmaster at Winchester, and also appointed clerk of the
court by Judge Deady. Had charge of Wilbur academy in 1856-7, and of Roseburg academy one year following. Was
appointed receiver of the land office in Roseburg, holding the position seven years ; since which time he has been principally
employed in surveying government lands; Was married March 26, 1840, to Elizabeth Cragin, of East Douglas, Massachu-
setts. Children, Helen Azrebah, Sarah Elizabeth, Isabel Cragin (deceased), Martha Virginia and Samuel Collins.

JOHN CREED FLOED, prior to his death was a resident of Roseburg, and one of the most successful merchants in
Southern Oregon. He was born in Amherst county, Virginia, in 1816, and was, therefore, at the time of his death, which
occurred in 18S3, sixty-seven years old. He was married to Miss Sarah E. Lane, daughter of Gen. Joseph Lane, July 10,
1851, and in 1852 they came to this state arriving first at Oregon City. A brief stoppage there, and they started for the then
wild region of the Umpqua valley, where they arrived, during the fall, at Winchester. At this place Mr. Floed entered into
business as a merchant, being one of the pioneer merchants of this county. When Douglas county was organized Winchester
was designated as the county seat until a suitable county seat had been selected by the citizens at the polls. Roseburg having
been selected as county seat, Mr. Floed moved his stock of goods to that place, where he entered into business. Mr. Floed's
success in life and business has been mainly achieved by the proper exercise of economy, industry and business integrity, guided
by intelligent financial ability. The following are the names of his children, Mary present wife of Hon. F. P. Hogan, Emma
(deceased), J. C. Floed, Jr., S. Fred, Lavina (deceased), and Maggie (deceased).

JOHN FULLERTON.— This well known resident of Douglas county, was born in Warren county, Ohio, May iS,
1S20, and resided with his parents on a farm until his sixteenth year. He then went to Jacksonburg, Butler county, same state,
and there served an apprenticeship at the wagon and plow making trade. At the ex]iiration of his apprenticeship he moved to
Rossville and engaged in business for himself in the manufacture of wagons and plows, doing a large and successful business
until February, 1849, when he closed out and started for the golden state via Panama. On arriving at the latter place he was
compelled to remain some four months, on account of the scarcity of vessels coming to San Francisco, and engaged in the
survey of the Panama railroad across the isthmus. Arriving in San Francisco July 12, 1849, he, like most all the Argonauts,
immediately proceeded to the mines and first worked on the American river, and later in Shasta county, until March 1S51,
when he with his present near neighbor and old friend, Hon. James F. Gazley, came to Oregon with the intention of purchasing
cattle to drive back to the mines, but being so favorably impressed by the beauties of the country he concluded to locate, and
(Ook up his donation claim where he now resides, to which he has since added by purchase until now he has a farm of over 400
acres, situated near Canyonville. A view of his residence will be found in this history. Mr. FuUerton held the office of
sheriff of Douglas r:ounty from 1S58 to 1862, and is a gentleman well and favorably known and highly respected by the citizens
of the county in which he resides. Was married in Rosvislle, Ohio, December 15, 1843, to Miss Jane Rolfe, a native of Butler
county, Ohio, by which union they have six children, viz: James C, the present receiver of public moneys of the U. S. land
office at Roseburg; Eva, now Mrs. John O. Mocine; Addie Alice, now Mrs. Wm. R. McKenzie; Delia and John B.

OSCAR OVID GANIARD. The subject of this sketch, whose home is illustrated in this history, is one of the
prominent farmers and merchants of the northern part of Jackson county, and was born in Genessee county. New York, on
January 28, 1833. He was raised on a farm until he reached the age of fifteen, and accompanied his parents to Jonesville,
Hillsdale county, Michigan, in 1842, where the family commenced building up a new home in the wilderness. Oscar caught
the gold fever and emigrated to Oregon in 1852, reaching Oregon City in the fall of that year and remained there a few-
months. In October, 1852, he came to Jackson county and mined on Jackson creek, but during the starvation times of 1852-3
he was forced to return to Portland, where he remained until 1856, in which year he settled near Democrat gulch, Josephine
county, Oregon, where he purchased a farm and afterwards established a mercantile business which he conducted in connection
with farming. In 1858 Mr. Ganiard went to visit his parents at his old home in Michigan and married Lucinda Ganiard on
July 5, 1858. She is a native of Rochester, New York, and was born November 10, 1838. In 1872 Mr. Ganiard became a

APPENDIX. 529

a resident of Jackson county, purchasing the "Leslie" ranch in Sam's valley, and has since added to thai property until he now
owns four thousand acres of valuable land. lie has a store on the place and is engaged in merchandising as well as farming
Mr. Cianiard is regarded as an intelligent financier, liberal in all matters where the judgment of others is to be regarded, al-
ways according to his neighbors their full rights. He is considered one of the progressive farmers and business men of the
county, and always interests himself in the prosperity of the community in which he resides. Their only living child is Lottie.
Their two sons, Freddie and Oscar, died in 1883.

ORLANDO COOLIDGE lives at Ashland, and is extensively engaged in the nur.sery business. He was born in
O.xford county, Maine, and came to this state and county in 1851. In 1857 he was married to Miss Mary J. Foss, in the slate
of Illinois. One child, Minnie J. Mr. Coolidge established a nursery in Ashland in 1S69. He has introduced almost every
variety of fruit, forest and ornamental trees, also nearly every desirable variety of plants and flowers. To Mr. Coolidge's un-
tiring energy and industry, and to Mrs. Coolidge's taste and love of flowers, is Southern Oregon indebted for very much of the
beautiful and useful that enriches and adorns the country. Their home is a home of fruits and flowers, and is the admiration of
every beholder. A view of this beautiful residence will be found among the illustrations of this work.

HENRY GATES: this well known and popular resident of Roseburg, proprietor of the Roseburg Flouring mills, is a
native of Dunkirk, N. V., born January 26, 1832; residing on his father's farm until he attained the age of 20 years. He then
started to learn the trade of carpentering which he followed for four years. Mr. Gates then in his native town learned the
trade of a miller. Being master of two good trades he concluded to come west and a few months later found him in Perry
county, 111., where he worked at carpentering for some three years. In i860, he moved to Fillmore county, Minn., where he
resided until 1870. In the early part of 1865 our subject returned to Ohio where he enlisted in Co., K. 195th Ohio Vol., and
served during the remainder of the war being discharged December 24, of the same year. On receiving his discharge Mr. Gates
immediately returned to his home in Minnesota. In the fall of 1870, on account of the severe winters in the northwest he con-
cluded to seek a milder climate and selected Oregon as his future home. On his arrival here he came direct to Douglas county,
locating in Roseburg and for the following si.\ years engaged at his trade of carpenter and builder. In August, 1876, Mr. Gales
leased the Roseburg Flouring mills, and three years later purchased a half interest, the firm name being Jones & Gates. In
June, 1882, this firm was changed by the purchase of Mr. Jones' interest by Mr. T. J. Criteser. This new firm of Gates &
Criteser have made many valuable improvements in the old mill — as it was one of the very first mills built in Southern Oregon.
A view of the mill, and also of Mr. Gates' residence, will be found in this work. Mr. Gates was married in Fillmore county,
Minn., September, 1S61, to Miss Sarah M. Bean, by which union they have two children, Daisy A. and Lafayette O.

THOMAS K. GARDNER, a resident of Putnam valley, and engaged in farming; is a native of Licking county, Ohio,
born May 15, 1S43. In 1S53 his parents crossed the plains to Oregon and came to Douglas county direct. His parents first
settled on the Siuslaw, where they remained until i860, when they moved to the neighborhood where our subject now resides,
five miles west of Drain. Here Thomas K., engaged in farming for himself in which he has been successful, now owning a
valuable and well improved farm of 920 acres. A view of his residence is placed in this work.

HON. JAMES F. GAZLEY. — In the gentleman whose name heads this short memoir, we have a ha])py combina-
tion of law7er, statesman and a most successful farmer. He is a man whom nature fitted in her happy mood with a combina-
tion of qualities that could hardly fail to guide its possessor to success — qualities which especially fit him to deal with men.
With manners suave — a disposition to accommodate, and generous promptings toward his fellows — he greets the stranger, the
customer, or the friend, in that peculiar way which carries with it an impression of a kind wish implied, which seldom fails to
leave a desire with the recipient to do him a favor if he can. It is a happy faculty, and it gives the possessor what he deserves,
a friendship and respect among men that is bounded only by the e.xtent of his acquaintance. Such are the qualities of the
gentleman of whom we write. Mr. Gazley is a native of Courtland county, New Vork, and first saw the light of day Septem-
ber 12, 1822, and in that county lived on his father's farm until the spring of 1840. He with his parents then moved west,
locating in Bradford county, Penn. Having the advantage of a good education, he began reading law, and a few years later
was admitted to the bar, in which honorable profession he continued until the spring of 1849, when he concluded to seek his
fortune in the new Eldorado. Casting aside Blackstone, with seven companions and with o\ teams, made a safe transit of the
Rocky mountains, arriving in California in the latter part of July 1849. Mr. Gazley immediately proceeded to the mines in
Shasta county, and embarked in mining for two years with fair success. In March 1851, he, with his present near neighbor,
John FuUerton, came to Oregon to purchase cattle with the intention of returning to California; but on passing through the
county where they now reside, they were so favorably impressed with the advantages presented that they concluded to locate,
and at that early date settled on the fine farm which he now possesses, located at Canyonville, Douglas county, and engaged
in agriculture and stock raising. In 1852 our subject returned to his old home in Pennsylvania, for ihe purpose of bringing
out his young wife and son, to their Oregon home. Mr. G. has always taken an active part in politics, and in June 1S54, was
elected to the territorial legislature, and again elected in 1858. In i860 he was elected to the state senate, and while there
used his voice and influence in favor of the Union cause. In 1862 JMr. G. was elected to the office of district attorney, for
Douglas, Jackson and Josephine counties, and was twice elected delegate to carry the presidential electoral vote to Washington
In 1868 we again find him representing Douglas county in the state legislature. In every office that Mr. Gazley has filled he
has always used his best endeavors for the advancement of his county and for the benefit of the state at large. It is no flattery
to say he filled them with credit and satisfaction to his constituents and honor to him.self. Mr. Gazley was united in marriage
in Crawford county, Pennsylvania, in August 1848, to Miss Adaline Adams, a native of that slate, by which union they have
five children, viz: James F., Jr., Clarence, Helen, now Mrs. G. W. Riddle; Minnie and Elmer. A view of .Mr. Gazley's
place will be found in this work.

THOMAS J. GILLAM was born in Huntington county, Pennsylvania, September 2, 1833^ When he was six
years of age his parents removed to Virginia, and there resided until 1840, when they moved west, locating in Henry county
Iowa, and embarked in farming. In April, 1852. he, with his father (his mother having died during their residence in Iowa),

530 APPENDIX.

two sisters and tliree brothers, started with ox teams for Oregon, and arrived at The IJalles October 7, and from there came
direct to Douglas county. Locating at Winchester he engaged in farming, and for two years was a partner with Mr. John
Aikin, Sr., in a ferry at that place. About 1868 yU. Gillam purchased a farm of 700 acres in Garden valley, w^here he resided
until 1880, when he leased his farm and removed to the town of Wilbur, induced to do so to secure the advantages of a
better school. Purchasing some twenty-five acres of land adjoining the town, he built a beautiful residence, where lie now
lives. A view of his dwelling will be found in this volume. Mr. Gillam was married Sept. 15, 1859, to Miss Elizabeth
Ingram. They have four children: James C, Minnie L., John and Emily.

JOHN L. GRUBB — a view of whose residence is placed among the illustrations of this work — was born in Louisa
county, Iowa. When but a small boy, Mr. Grubb emigrated with his parents, in 1852, to Jackson county, Oregon, On attain-
ing his majority our subject engaged in farming for himself, to which he has since added stock raising. The latter pursuit he
is now largely engaged in on his farm near Jacksonville.

GEORGE V. GURNEY. The subject of this sketch, who in partnership with his brother, J. W. Gurney, owns and
operates the sawmill, a sketch of which appears in this work, known by the name of Gurney mill, which is situated on Bear creek in
Ten-mile valley, Douglas county, was born in Lee county, Iowa, on December 22, 1851. At the age of seven years he was
taken to Oregon and settled among the first arrivals in the district of Ten-mile. Mr. Gurney was married January I, 1876, to
Miss Jane Fisher. Mr. Gurney, by the exercise of industry, enterprise and good judgment, has acquired a first-rate financial
standing among the people of Ten-mile, and has done much to develop the resources of that section. He possesses, in addi-
tion to the mill property, a farm of 280 acres. Mrs. E. Gurney, the revered mother of the above named gentleman, now re-
sides a mile distant from the mill. An elegant illustration of her well cultivated homestead appears herein. This farm may be
said to be one of the principal ornaments in the vicinity of Ten-mile.

HON. BINGER HERMAN.— Mr. Herman was born in Lonaconing, Pennsylvania, in 1843. The son of that Dr.
Henry Herman, who, as narrated elsewhere in this work, founded the colony of Baltimore immigrants on the headwaters of
the Coquille. The son received a suitable education at various country schools, and at the Irving college in Winchesier, Md.,
graduating from the latter institution at the age of seventeen. In 1859 the Hermans set out with about twenty other families,
like themselves of German descent, and after a long voyage came to Port Orford, and eventually found their way to the fertile
and beautiful countiy about the south fork of the Coquille, and there located permanently, colonizing the region and doing
their utmost to bring out its capabilities. Binger Herman, in i860, being then eighteen years old, opened a school for the
instruction of the neighboring youth, it being the first ever established in the Coquille valley. A short time later we find him
pursuing his profession of teaching in Yoncalla valley, and in Canyonville. Successful as a teacher, he was not satisfied with
the inducements the pursuit offered, and in 1865 he turned to the profession of the law and began preparation for that arduous
yet successful career which he has since follow^ed. In 1866, he was admitted to the bar, and in the same year received his first
civic honor in being elected to the lower branch of the legislature of Oregon. Shortly after, Mr. Herman proceeded to San
Francisco and entered the law office of Hon. John B. Felton. the great civil lawyer, and continued there his studies in juris-
prudence, with ihe greatest profit. In 1S68 he was elected joint senator for Douglas, Coos and Curry counties, and three years
later was appointed by the president Receiver of the Roseburg land office. This position he held for two years, relinquishing it
to enter upon the practice of the law at Roseburg, which he has since pursued with success and an increasing reputation. Mr.
Herman was married in Douglas county in 1868, to Miss Flora Tibbetts. They have four children: Cyrus, Schiller, Milton
and Mabel.

PATRICK HUGHES. The subject of this sketch is a native of Ireland, and at the age of seventeen years emi-
grated to America, locating in Massachusetts. He came to California in 1856, where he engaged in mining until 1S57. He
then came to Oregon and located on his present ranch, now consisting of two thousand acres, where he is largely engaged in
the stock and dairy business, near Cape Blanco Light House, and a short distance from Sixes river. Mr. Hughes is married
and has seven children: Edward T., James S., John C, Thomas P., Francis J., Alice J. and Mary E.

HENRY JONES was born in Preble county, Ohio, April 27, 1827, and there resided until 1852, when he came
across the plains to Oregon direct to Douglas county and engaged in agriculture and stock raising on the farm where he resides,
now consisting of 680 acres, located on Myrtle creek, three miles from the town of Myrtle Creek. A view of this fine farm
will be found among the illustrations in this work. Mr. Jones is a gentleman highly respected in the community where he lives.

JOSEPH JONES; this well known farmer of Looking-glass district, a view of whose handsome residence appears in
this work, is a native of Gurnsey county, Ohio, and was born February 20, 1840. When but eight years of age his parents
started to cross the plains to the Pacific coast, but on arriving in Marion county, Indiana, were persuaded by relatives to dis-
continue their trip and remain in the latter named county, ilr. Jones' father then located on a farm on which they resided for
four years. April, 1852, he, with his parents and six sisters, again started to complete their interrupted trip. When near Fort
Laramie the family sustained an irrepairable loss in the death of the mother. They finally proceeded on their way and arrived
in Portland in November. After a short residence our subject started for Astoria where he remained two years. In the spring
of 1855, came to Douglas county, where he has since resided with the exception of four years from 1862 to 1866 spent in the
mines of Idaho. On his return Mr. Jones again took up farming and in the fall of 1 881 purchased his present beautiful and
valuable farm located on ] .ooking-glass creek, three miles from the town of Looking-glass, where he now resides, highly
esteemed by his neighbors and the people of the county in general. Mr. Jones, was united in marriage, in the French Settle-
ment, October 27, 1867, to Miss Roena Wright, daughter of John W. Wright, a highly respected citizen of Douglas county.
They have a family of six children, viz: Joseph E.. Emma, John M., Ralph, Sarah R. and Elizabeth.

HENRY KLIPPEL; born in Germany, December 11, 1833. His parents brought him to America when four years old,
and .settled at Cincinnati, Ohio. His father died here and the family moved to St. Joseph, ilo. In 1851, Mr. Klippel crossed
the plains to Oregon, arriving August i6th, of that year. After remaining in the Willamette valley about six weeks, he came
across the state to Yreka with a gentleman who was going to that place: arriving in the fall. Here he mined during the winter

APPENDIX. 531

and in February, 1852, came to Jacksonville, Jackson county. He mined first al Galice creek, Josephine county, but soon
returned to Rich Gulch where he engaged principally in mining until 1S57, after which time he followed various occupations
until i860, when the Gold Hill mine was struck. He then gave this mine his entire attention and put up on that mine the first
quartz mill built in Oregon. In 1864 he went to Idaho and mined successfully— returning in the fall of that year. In 1868,
engaged in the hardware trade in company with Wm. Hoffman. This business he followed for six years. At the incorporation
of Jacksonville, he was elected recorder, and afterwards president of the board of trustees. In 1870 was elected sheriff of
Jackson county, holding the office one term. In 1872, he was appointed one of the capitol commissioners, and after the first
year was elected president of the board. In 1S74, the legislature met, and Mr. Klippel was elected to the office of capitol com-
missioner, and resigned about November, 1874. Returning to Jacksonville, built another quartz mill with Mr. Beekman on the
Jewett claim. He was also one of the discoverers of the Emeline cinnabar mine, which yielded a fair per cent, of quicksilver.
In 1S74, he was chairman of the democratic state central cojnmittee and in 1876 nominated for a Tilden elector. In 1872, he
was nominated by the democratic party to represent Jackson county in the legislature, but was defeated. In 1S77, he with a
company built a water ditch from Swan Lake to the mines they owned on Applegate and run a hydraulic mine. These mines
he took charge of after the completion of the ditch, and followed this business until 18S0, when he was elected county clerk;
-elected in 1882 and is the present incumbent. Mr. Klippel married Elizabeth J. Bingham, January 24th, i860, and they

have five childr

nng.

GENERAL JOSEPH LANE.— Joseph Lane was born in North Corolina on the 14th of December. 1801. The
years of his childhood and youth were spent in the family circle of his father, who was for some years a resident of Henderson
county, Kentucky. At the age of twenty years Joseph Lane married Miss Polly Hart, and settled in Vanderburg county, In-
diana, and there for more than twenty-five years led the life of a farmer. At that early age he began to assume prominence
among men, and his mental and moral qualities were recognized by his fellow-citizens, who made him their representative in the
legislature of the state of Indiana, and he filled this position during nearly all his residence among them. When the -Mexican
war began. State Senator Lane resigned his seat and made preparations to take part in hostilities, and was elected colonel of
the second regiment of Indiana Volunteers, then on its way to the seat of war. Before his departure he received a commission
as Brigadier-General of Volunteers, and was ordered to report for duty at General Taylor's headquarters at Brazos, Texas.
During the campaign which preceded the battle of Buena Vista, General Lane was actively employed and in the glorious vic-
tory achieved by the American troops he took a very important part, commanding the left wing of Taylor's army. He was se-
verely wounded by a bullet in the shoulder, but, in spite of pain, remained upon the field until victory was assured. Distin-
guished by his conduct in this battle, and praised by his commander, General Lane immediately attained a position in the pub-
lic estimation second to no other officer in the service. The period of enlistment of his brigade had now expired, and the
General accompanied it to New Orleans, where the troops were mustered out. This duty performed, he returned to General
Taylor's army, but was almost immediately ordered to join General Scott, who was now on his celebrated march from Vera
Cruz to Mexico. General Lane, leading a brigade composed of the Fourth Ohio and Fourth Indiana Volunteers, with several
independent organizations, numbering, altogether, 3,000 men, set out upon his march to reinforce the American army then
fighting its way, step by step, from Pueblo to the City of Mexico General Lane's services were arduous in the extreme. The
route swarmed with guerrillas and organized bodies of Mexican troops, who resisted his advance and were successfully defeated
by him at Huamantia, on October 9, 1847; at Atlixco on the 19th of the same month, and at Tlascala on the 29th. Matamoras,
fifty-four miles from Pueblo, was taken by assault on the 22nd of November, and on the 14th of December the headquarters of
General Scott were reached. Subsequently, General Lane and his soldiers were actively employed in the closing battles of the
war, and in clearing the country of guerrillas. In January, 1848, an attempt was made by his division to capture General
Santa Anna, but unsuccessfully. General Lane took Orizaba in the same month, and on the 24th of February defeated the in-
famous Padre Jarauta, the guerilla chief, at Tehualtaplan. This action closed the war, and the General returned to the
United States, having attained an enviable reputation as a military officer, and, what was dearer to him, the unbounded regard
of his fellow soldiers. It has been customary to call him the "Marion of the Mexican war" — a fit designation for an officer so
liolil, courageous and full of resources, and withal so patriotic in mind and acts. The government's appreciation of his
career was marked by the bestowal of the rank of Brevet Major General of Volunteers, his. commission dating from the battle
of Huamantia. It has well been said that no officer of his rank who served in the Mexican war rendered such important ser-
vices to his country or gained greater fame by his abilities and courage. Returning to his quiet and peaceful home in Indiana,
General Lane sought rest from the fatigues of military life, amid the pleasant surroundings of his rural abode. But he was not
destined to remain long in inactivity, for his unsolicited and unexpected appointment to the governorship of the newly organ-
ized territory of Oregon, drew him from his former mode of life and cast his lot with those who were henceforth to be his fellow
citizens. He came to the Pacific slope by way of New Mexico and Arizona, accompanied by a military escort and arriving in
San Francisco in February, 1849, '00k p.assage to the Columbia on a sailing vessel and arrived at Oregon City, on the Wil-
lamette, OP the evening of March 2, 1S49, and next day issued his proclamation as governor of the territory of Oregon— her
first and by far her most distinguished executive. The duties of his office were discharged with uncommon tact and justice un-
til in August of the following year, when, a new political party having come in power, his successor was appointed. The Gen-
eral now spent a short time as a miner in Northern California and also participated in Kearney's campaign against the Rogue
River Indians in 1851. In the latter part of that year he was chosen territorial delegate to Congress. In 185.5 he distinguished
himself greatly in the Rogue river war of that year, and he received a severe wound at the battle of Evans' creek. The subse-
quent treaty with the savages was brought about largely through his influence, as related elsewhere. Subsequently, until the
admission of Oregon into the Union, General Lane served the people, as their delegate in Congress, with distinguished fidelity.
In 1857 the state festified her appreciation by his election as United States Senator, a position which he held until 1861. In
i860 the Democratic convention at Baltimore nominated the popular General and Senator for the office of Vice-President of
the United States on the ticket with John C. Breckenridge. The details of the ensuing canvass are, after the lapse of over

532 APPENDIX.

twenty years, still fresh in the popular mind. General Lane's political beliefs led him to throw the weight of his influence in
favor of the South, in the beginning of the mighty struggle that was about to commence, and yielding to his honest convictions
of justice and right, he retired to his home near Roseburg, and never again entered public life. The remaining years of Joseph
Lane's career were spent on his farm and in the bosom of his family. Having w ithdrawn from politics and from the public service of
his fellow men, he concentrated upon agricultural pursuits the powers of mind and energies which had distinguished him in
previous occupations. His character may be compared to that of Washington, who was content to hide in the placid retreat of
jVIount Vernon the qualities which had shone in the highest station. Not having had the advantages of a thorough education in
his youth, the General, at the age of three score, set about making up the deficiency by a course of systematic study, and by
most uncommon ])erseverance and resolution acquired a st(3re of the most valuable of all learning, the facts which modern
science teaches. In such a manner the General passed the later years of his life, surrounded by his children and grandchiliren
who were bound to him by ties of more than ordinary affection and regard. In the exercise of the most cheerful hospitality
and in the society of his relatives and friends, the fitting termination of a life so eventful and laborious was rounded to com-
pleteness. His work was done, and as his long and well spent existence drew to a close, it was with no thought of regret at
wasted opportunities that the old General looked back upon the dead years. Joseph Lane died in April, 1881, having nearly
attained the great age of eighty years. He left but few of his companions behind him, and of all the officers who reached
eminence in the Mexican war, he was the last to bid adieu to earth. General Lane was a man whose unyielding integrity, sub-
jugation of personal prejudices and determination to speak the truth under all circun- stances, were the rarest things in political
or public life. His perfect frankness did not take the form which it assumes in worse balanced minds of a desire to speak un
palatable truths in season and out of season. Perhaps there never was a politician who was so little of an egotist, and whose
judgment was so little swayed by personal feelings. He belonged to that class of statesmen who deal with persons rather than
with principles, but he showed little ambition to be merely a popular statesman. The student finds in his life much that is
commendable — unbounded patriotism, integrity that has never been impeached, and a wise judgment that always left his con-
stituents satisfied. In all his intercourse with the world there were acts of the finest and most delicate feeling which may well
command the respect and admiration of all. Never acting for effect, but always consciously and laborously striving fur the
good of others. This great patriot, whose career was so manly and noble as any that have ever been enacted, attained, with-
out seeking it, a place in the hearts of his countrymen, which the masters of popular applause might envy. He wdio has now
gone from among his kindred, full of years and of honors, was a good and a great man, genial in his nature, wise in judg-
ment, truthful to the last degree, and doing with might whatever his hand found to do.

CAPT. JOSIAH B. LEEDS.— The subject of this sketch was born in Leedspoint, Atlantic county, New Jersey,
December I, 1829, and is a son of Clayton and Jemima (Higby) Leeds. His father being a native of Leeds, England, and for
forty-seven years a sailing master on the briny deep. Our subject learned his vocation from his father, with whom he went to
sea when but eight years old. From 1837 to 1865, he followed a seafaring life, filling every position on board a vessel from
cabin boy lo master, attaining the latter position when twenty-two years of age. In June, 1851, Captain Leeds sailed into
San Francisco, as mate of the schooner Frances Helen— \iv, eldest brother being captain. On arriving in the metropolis of
CaUfornia, Josiah was made master of the above named schooner, and engaged in the coasting trade. May 10, 1853, he
crossed the Umpqua bar and arrived for the first lime at Gardiner, where he now resides. At that time but one house was
standing where now is a thriving town. In the fall of 1S65 Captain Leeds concluded to give up the sea and settle on
terra firma. He selected the present townsite of Gardiner for his future home, and in that year purchased some 300 acres of
land. In 1876 he laid out the town, and in partnership with G. .S. Hinsdale and Edward Breen, began the erection of the
well known Hinsdale mills, now the property of the Gardiner Mill Company. In 1882 Mr. Leeds severed his connection with
the Hinsdale Mill Company and has since been engaged in the stock and butchering business. Afler many years of toil on
Innd and sea he is anchored in a snug harbor, surrounded by the comforts of a happy home. Mr. Leeds was united in mar-
riage in San Francisco to Miss Eliza Bartholomew, a native of Pennsylvania, by which union they had a family of eight
children, four of whom are living, viz: Mary K., Clayton J., Bertha J. and Ida E. A view of Mr. Leed's residence is among
the illustrations of this work.

D. A. LEVENS, a leading and wealthy citizen of Douglas county and a resident of Canyonville; is one of the men
whose success in life and business has been mainly achieved in the country where he now lives by the exercise of economy,
industry and business integrity, guided by intelligent financial ability. He is now a capitalist, who twenty years ago was a poor
man. What he has came gradually through those years as the result of correct business calculations, and not by chance of the
favorable turn of fortune's wheel. Mr. Levens was born in Erie county, New York, October 5, 1828, and is the son of Abiel
and Rhoda (La Suer) Levens. When Mr. Levens was six years of age his father died. His mother continued to manage the
farm in New York until 1845, when she sold out and with her family (our subject then being seventeen years old) emigrated
west, locating on a farm in DuPage county, Illinois, where D. A. remained until March, 1852. With one companion and
horse teams he started for California, across the plains. After a few weeks out they joined a large train bound for Oregon, and
by them was induced to change his course and come to this state; but on his arrival he concluded to continue on to California.
For four years he mined around Yreka with good success. Having concluded to engage in farming and stock raising, and being
favorably impressed with the advantages of Douglas county on his trip through on his way to the mines, he now returned to
locate within her borders. He first purchased 320 acres of land where now stands the village of Galesville, and there formed
the nucleus for his piesent large business. In t868 Mr. Levens began merchandising in Canyonville, in which he continued
until 1880, when he retired from mercantile business to give his entire attention to the management of his large estate, now
consisting of 4,500 acres of land. He is successfully and extensively engaged in the raising of horses and cattle, having large
herds of each in Eastern Oregon. In 1882 Mr. Levens built his elegant hotel at Galesville — a view of which will be found in
this history. At this place, in connection with his sons Douglas and Henry, he is engaged in general merchandising. Mr. Levens
held the office of county commissioner from 1868 to 1870. He was united in marriage in 1855, '« Miss Fannie I. White, a

APPENDIX. 533

native of Michigan, by whicli union ihey have a family of four sons and one daugluer. Their names are: William, Douglas,
Henry, Jessie and Grant.

CONSTANTINE MAGRUDER; born in (Jreen county, III., on the iSth, of .May, 1835. Parents left m 1838 for
Andrew county. Mo., where they resided until 1S44, in which year they came to Oregon; settled at Oregon City and lived there
until the fall of- 1848. That fall Mr. M. went through this valley on his way to the gold mines on Feather river, Cal. Next
spring returned to Oregon by water, and in 1849 went back to California. In the spring of 1850 relumed to Oregon, and in
the spring of 1851 went through the valley for the third time on the way to the gold mines at Vreka. Followed mining at Yreka
and in Northern California and Southern Oregon until August 1854, when he finally settled in this valley. Married April 21st,
1875, to Miss Marjary E. Constant, of Central Point, also a native of Sangamon county. 111., and who crossed the plains in 1852-
Went jinto a mercantile business at Central Point in October 186S, where he still resides. Ills father took up a donation claim
on Foot's creek in .\ugust, 1854. His mother died near Oregon City, .March 9, 1846; and his father, in Jackson county July.
7. 1875-

FREDERICK MARK. The well known furniture manufacturer of Marshfield, Coos county, is a native of Copen-
hagen, Denmark, born June 19, 1830. At the age of fourteen Mr. Marks began to learn the cabinet maker's and piano manu-
facturer's trades both of which he mastered, and worked at ditferen^ places in Europe for thirteen years. When 32 years old he
returned to Copenhagen, a master workman. He concluded to start in business for himself and opened a furniture factory in
the above place where he remained until July 1867, he then came to .\merica and worked at his trade in Chicago for four years.
In May, 1870, Mr. M. came to San Francisco and a fewweeks later to Portland, where he worked in the Oregon Iron Works as
pattern maker for two years. In February 1873 ^^ came to Marshfield, Coos county, and started a furniture factory and in (he
fall of that year puchased his present property on which stands his residence and factory consisting of over half a block and
bounded by Front, Church and Pine streets. A view of his property will be found in this work. Mr. Mark was married in
Copenhagen, to Miss Mary Eickworth, a native of Bremen, they have one daughter, Jennie.

WILLIAM M. MATHES, who.se home— one and a half milles northeast of Phcenix— is illustrated in this volume,
was born in Westmoreland county, Penn., November 9, 1829. At the age of eight years his father died, when his mother with
the children removed to Huntington county, on the Juniatta river, and from thence, when William was twenty, came to Fulton
county. 111. In 1852 he crossed the plains to Oregon. At John Day's river his company was broken up and managing to
secure a pony on which to pack his clothes and a single Ijlanket he procured two pounds of flour and started out by himself to
complete the journey. Arriving in the neighborhood of the Deschutes river he learned of a new crossing and hurriedly hearing
the directions pushed forward hoping to cross before night. But losing the way he traveled on, he new not whither, until late in
the night. Finally all appearance of a road disappearing, and groping his way through darkness and brush he esjiied what
seemed to be an impenetrable gloom of darkness just in front of him. Deeming it wise to halt here for the balance of the night,
and hastily fastening the pony to a tree, he wrapped himself in his blanket and was soon in the arms of morpheus. At early
dawn he awoke from his slumbers and was horrified to find himself on the very brink of a huge precipice whose yawning cavern
below was the impenetrable gloom of the night before. On the i8th day of August, he left Barlows in a rain which increased
in violence all day and continued all the succeeding night. At nightfall he came across a camp of emigrants consisting of one
man and his wife and seven children and also the grandmother of the children. Of the team, " one ox " only was alive. The
women and children were all piled in the wagon. The man was trying to keep comfortable by a log fire he had kindletl for the
purpose. Here Mr. Mathes concluded to spend the night anil with this unhappy emigrant kept sleepless watch all that night of
storm and rain without food or shelter — the pony sharing the fire with the men, turning first one side and then the other to the
fire. At early dawn the journey was resumed, and breaking a piece of bread from the cake he had made of his two pounds of
flour, he ale it as he traveled. At ten o'clock he encountered a company of emigrants from Peoria, III. Arriving at this place
the evening previous, eleven of their horses, poor from the long trip of scanty feed, exhausted from the travel, and chilled by the
rain of the previous day, had perished during the night. Still pressing on, at the crossing of a rapid mountain stream he saw
two men leading and supporting a poor horse upon whose back a woman and three children were being carried across the water,
and to their destination, all other means of travel having been previously lost in the terrible journey. This day he crossed Little
Sandy, whose swollen waters carried him and his pony some distance below the ford where it was with great difficulty that the
latter made the land. The rain having ceased, the second night was spent in comparative comfort, barring hunger. Here the
balance of his little store of provisions was eaten. The next evening he arrived at Foster'.s where there was plenty lo eat, and
his sufferings for the time being were at an end- -but not the journey. Starting from home for the mines, he never slopped until
he reached them at Jacksonville in September of that year, (1852). From Jacksonville he went lo Jackass creek where he spent
the memorable winter of 1852-3, living for two months on very poor venison without sail, even. Returning in the spring to
fackson creek he barely escaped striking a fortune there, which so disgusted him that he left the mines forever and settled on
the land where he now resides, in May, 1853. In 1861, Mr. .Malhes returned lo the Atlantic stales; was married October 3rd
of that year and with his wife returned to Oregon and the homestead in 1863. In 1873, ''« returned lo Wisconsin and brought
his mother to the coast. Mrs. Mathes' maiden name was Christina Riddle. She was born in Edinburg, Scotland, January
16, 1842. The children are Hany G., Bertha L., Mary S., George W., Jessie A. and Donald Clyde.

GENERAL JOHN MARSHALL McCALL, who represented Jackson county in ihe a.sscinbly in 1S76, ami
whose portrait appears in this work, to use the language of Professor Huxley, is "a man so trained in youth thai his body is ihc
ready servant of his will, and does with ease and pleasure all the work that as a mechanism it is capable of; whose inlellecl is
a clear, logical engine, with all its parts of equal strength, and in smooth working order, ready, like a sleani engine, lo be
turned to any kind of work, and spin the gossamers as well as forge the anchors of the mind." And ihi.s, indeed, is the man
so familiarly called General McCall. He is, so to speak, one of those men whose brain is well proportioned to his body. He
never stops to consider trifles, and never reaches after the impossible or impracticable. He gives proper attention to the
details of his business, but would not like to be detailed lo do so. He has a powerful mind, and what adds to its strength is

5a4 APPENDIX.

the fact that it is his own. It will not brook insult nor be dictated to. It abhors presumption and detests flattery. In short,
he is a self-made man. He was born in Washington county, Pennsylvania, on January 15, 1S25. He emigrated to Louisa
county, Iowa, in 1842, and from there crossed the plains with ox teams to Oregon in 1850, and in the year 1852 settled in Jack-
son county. It was in 1859 he located at Ashland, where he purchased an interest in the Ashland Flouring Mill. The year
1861 will be ever memorable as the period when a great dissension between two vast sections of the country threatened the dis-
memberment of the nation. The consequence was, that in many places throughout the coast, military regiments were organ-
ized for the emergency that was expected to arise at any moment. Among other organizations of this character, the 1st Ore-
gon cavalry was raised, and the subject of this sketch was the first to respond. He was commissioned second lieutenant of
company"D," and in 1865 was promoted to captain. It was during this year that he commanded an escort to B. J. Pengra.
that gentleman having in charge a surveying party in laying out the wagon road from Eugene City to Stein Mountain. General
McCall remained with the party at Fort Klamath, and in the following spring was honorably discharged at ^'ancouver, and
immediately returned to his old home at Ashland. In the spring of 1867, at the solicitation of many citizens of the place, he
founded the woolen mills, which to-day is one of the prominent enterprises of Ashland. In 1883 he was commissioned briga-
dier-general of the Oregon Stale MiUtia by Governor John L. Moody, which position he has maintained to the present writing.
CJeneral McCall has been twice married; the first was to Miss Theresa R. Applegate, on April 30, 1868. The second was to
Mrs. M. E. Brown, nee Mary E. Anderson, on July 4, 1S70. His children are: Lydia T., Elsie May and John A.

DAVID C. McCLALLEN was born in Essex, Chittenden county, Vermont, October 27, 1829, and there resided
until seventeen years of age. He then went to Kingsville, New York, and entered a large manufactory there as apprentice to
the carriage makers' trade, at which he served a regular term of four years. He then concluded to go west, and located in
Urliana, Illinois, and there engaged in the carriage and wagon making business until May, 1859, when with his wife and one
son, he started via. New York and Panama to Oregon. After a voyage of some two months they arrived within the borders
of Douglas county, first settling at Oakland, where he again engaged at his former business until 1865. After engaging in the
hotel business in Canyonville for two years, he transferred his interest to Roseburg, and in 1867 purchased the "Metropolitan
Hotel" of that place, and was himself its genial landlord until 1875, when he retired from business and leased ^is hotel. .At
the present time he is taking the comforts of a prosperous life, mainly engaged in looking after his real estate interests in the
town. A view of "The Metropolitan" will be found in this work. There are but few of the residents of Douglas county who
do not know D. C. McClallen, and few men stand higher in the community in which he lives, as he is justly known for his uni
form kindness and generosity. Mr. McClallen was married in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, October I, 1857, to Miss Electa Bur-
dick, a native of New York state. By this union they had eight children, three of whom are living, viz: Harry, Ernest and Roy.
JOHN MURPHY. — A little way off the road leading from Ashland to Major Barron s, and nestled among the
mountains, is the home of this old pioneer. It is a lovely spot and we have selected it as one of the illustrations in these
pages. John Murphy was born in county Cork, Ireland, in December, 1820. He came to the United States in May, 1847,
and located in Orange county. New York; thence to Iowa in 1852, settling in Lee county. The following year he crossed the
plains to Oregon, with some of the settlers who are now his neighbors, and located in Jackson county. After working for a
short time at the Mountain House ranch, he settled on his present farm which consists of twenty-two hundred acres. In 1853
Mr. Murphy joined Captain Williams' company and engaged in the war whh the Rogue River Indians, remaining until its close-
in 1854 a band of marauding Indians came near Mr. Murphy's house, where they killed an ox belonging to Myron Sterns. A
party of settlers followed the Indians, and coming up to Murphy's cabin and not finding him there they supposed he had been
killed. But when they had proceeded a little way up the creek there was Mr. Murphy planting potatoes and he knew nothing
of the Indians having been in the neighborhood. The subject of our sketch joined the settlers, who followed the trail of the
Indians to Grizzly Rock, put them to rout and broke up their camp at that place. In July, 1858, Mr. Murphy went to San
Francisco and married Mary Goodwin. Mrs. Ann Murphy, the mother of the subject of this sketch, is now residing near
Ashland with her daughter and enjoys good health, her reasoning faculties are well preserved and she is now ninety-two years old.
W. C. MYER. — W. C. Myer and Elizabeth Nessly were born in Jefferson county, Ohio, the former April 22, 1818,
and the latter June 17, 1S20. They were married on the 3rd of April, 1849, and set out immediately for Iowa, to which place
Mr. Myer in company with his father's family, had removed in 1843. In 1853 the numerous Myer family, including the subject
of this sketch, took up the line of march to the Pacific, arriving in Rogue river valley on September 3rd, of that year, and set-
tling three miles north of Ashland. Engaging in the stock business Mr. Myer soon found himself surrounded with a large herd
of horses. Wishing to improve the stock of this herd he went East in 1865, and brought out the noted horse Capt. Sligart. In
1869, not altogether satisfied with his adopted home, and desiring to find a market for his rapidly increasing stock, he deter-
mined to return to the Western states, which he reached in the autumn of thai year and settled in Kansas. Here he disposed
of his horses and betook himself to farming. One year, however, of the climate of that countr)-, with its doubtful crops satis-
fied him that he had made a great mistake and turned his longing eyes and glad feet again toward the Pacific. During his
Kansas experience however he never for a day even — forget his favorite — the horse. Industriously searching the records and the
country, he found his ideal in the Percheron, and hastily selling his Kansas farm, bought White Prince, Doll, Maggie and Perche
and returned to this country December, 1870. So rapid was the increase of this stock and so great the demand for it, that Mr.
Myer found it necessary to make new- importations. In 1872 he returned East and brought out Napoleon. With this importa-
tion he also brought out four Jersey cattle : one bull St. Louis, one cow Nacky, and two heifers. To these he has added from
time to time by importations from the best milkers in California as the nature of the case demanded. Mr. Myer's fourth impor-
tation of stock from the Atlantic to the Pacific was made in 1876 when he brought out Pride of Perche, Gen. Fleury, White Rose
and Jennie. In 187S the fifth importation, consisting of an Arabian Percheron, named Arabian Boy, and the filly Juanita,
was made. This filly which appears elsewhere in the book, in Mr. Myer's group of fine stock, was raised by Colon Cameron
of Brickersfield, Penn. Arabian Boy was sired by the pure blooded Jenifer Arabian imported from Arabia by Col. Jenifer an
American Officer of Egyptian Cavalry fame. He is the only Percheron Arabian in the United States. He may be seen in the

APPENDIX. 535

group. With this importation Mr. Myer brought out a small lot of Cotsvvold sheep for J. P. Walker and a small lot of Durham
cattle for E. F. Walker. Also for himself four Sheltand Ponies. Two of these were brought from the .Shetland Islands that
year and two were bred in the United .States, the Stallion— Bobby Burns— by Alexander, of Kentucky. Taking advantage of
the invitation given by the N. P. R. R. Co., in ihe autumn of 1883 to the pioneers ol the Pacific, Mr. Myer made his sixth
importation of fine slock, bringing the celebrated horse Gambetta and a .Shetland stallion both imported to America the same
year and both of which also appear in his group. In this importation there were six Jerseys, one bull and five heil'ers, all directly
descended from the best butter producers in the United States. Some of their anscestors have sold as follows: several for $z,ooo
each and one for $12,500. These Jerseys also appear in the group. Percheron horses bred from Mr. Myer's importations have
found their way to British Columbia and Southern California, and from the Pacific throughout Oregon and \Vashington and
Montana territories, and in all this territory are giving the very best of satisfaction. As additional evidence of tlie enterprising
character of this gentleman we record the fact that to him belongs the credit of introducing to Rogue river valley the first gang-
plow, tlie first improved Haines header and the first screw pulverizer; and to him and his brother Frank the first horse fork for
hoisting and stacking hay, Though more th.an a decade past the meridian of life, Mr. Myer is more active and energetic than
many other men at that very desirable epoch. The children of Mr. and Mrs. Myer are Frances, now Mrs. Billings, and
William.

ANDREW NASBURG was born July 8, 1839, in the parish of Forsa, near Hudixwall, Sweden. At the age of
ten years he emigrated with his mother and one sister to America, (his father had died some years previous), where they settled
first in Henry county, Illinois. About the time of our subject's departure from Sweden, two of his brothers, John and Olif,
embarked from another port, and during their oceanic trip a remarkaljle coincidence occurred, in which the respective vessels,
carrying the family, met in mid-ocean, where the mother, sister and brothers were permitted to communicate with each other.
After ten years residence in Illinois, Andrew, in company with his brother John, started for the Pacific coast, April 6, 1859.
They came via Panama, and arrived at their destination. Port Orford, May 20, 1859. Here young Nasburg engaged his ser-
vices to H. B. Tichenor & Co., proprietors of a saw mill, and continued with the company between four and five years, except-
ing a portion of several winters, which time he employed in attending school. By the spring of 1864, through industry and
economy, Mr. Nasburg had saved enough to embark on his own account in the mercantile line at Port Orford, being subse-
quently appointed postmaster at that place. Three years experience satisfied our young merchant, when he purchased a farm
near Marshfield, which he cultivated until December 3, 1869. The next move was to open a general merchandise store in
Marshfield. In the spring of 1873 he formed a copartnership with Thomas Hirst in the same line. These gentlemen in 1875
erected a commodious store building, (a view of which appears in this history), 40x60 feet, where they are now doing business.
Mr. Nasburg married. April 19, 1S71, Miss Emma Hirst, who is a native of Hanging Rock, Ohio. By this union they have
had five children, viz: Louisa C, Willie, Chester (now deceased), Harry and Claude.

ISRAEL BOYDE NICHOLS.— There are few men in Oregon to whom more credit is due for its development and
settlement than the subject of this sketch who came to Oregon in its very infancy. Mr. Nichols was born in Muskingdum
county, Ohio, near the town of McConnisville, September 22, 1824. His father being a salt manufacturer, Mr. Nichols' boy-
hood was spent in his father's works, where he remained until nearly twenty-one years of age. In the fall of 1842 he located
in the southern part of Iowa and engaged in farming one year, and then joined a train coming to Oregon with ox teams. On
arriving on the Humboldt river the train separated — three of the wagons taking the California trail. With the latter c^impany
was Mr. Nichols. With but few mishaps they arrived at Johnson's ranch in October, 1847, and made his first home in the
"olden state at the Santa Clara mission. In the spring of 1848 he went to Santa Cruz county, where he remained until the
gold discovery. Mr. Nichols was among the first to enter the mining district at Sutter's Fort, and for the following two years
engaged in mining and keeping store at the diflferent camps, until the spring of 1851, when he came ivith a [pack train lo Ore-
gon. He at that time passed through the beautiful Cow creek valley, which he has since made his home. On his first arrival
in the state Mr. N. engaged in the stock business, and m 1852 concluded to locate, and then took up a donation claim where
he now resides, and still continues in the stock business. He has since added to his estate by purchase until now he has 1,500
acres of land in the Cow creek valley, on w^hich he has recently built himself a fine residence, a view of which appears in this
work. During the Indian wars of 1853-6, Mr. Nichols took an active part, serving under Gen. Phil. Kearney and Gen.
Lane. A detailed account of the many narrow escapes, trials and privations that Mr. Nichols passed through in those years
would fill a good sized volume. Suffice it to say, there were few men in the Rogue river wars possessing more true courage
and daring, and who would sacrifice more for his fellow man than Mr. Nichols. After a residence of almost forty years on the
Pacific coast— thirty-three of which were spent where he now resides— he has collected sufficient of this world's goods lo be able
to take the comforts allowed an honest and well spent life, enjoying the confidence and esteem of all who know him. Mr.
Nichols was united in marriage in 1852 to Miss Isabelle Riddle, a n^uive of Ohio. By this union they had a family of twelve
children— eleven of whom are living. Their names are: Artenicia J., now Mrs. Owen Willis; Rhoda E., now Mrs. David
Thompson; Lewis W., Henry H., .\bner E., Ulysses S., Israel B., Jr., Ben., Clara (now deceased), George E., Maximilian
M . and Maria.

HON. JAMES W. F. OWENS, whose portrait appears in this history, is a true pioneer of the Pacific coast. Born
in Platte county, Missouri, February 22, 1843, and is the son of Thomas and -Sarah (Damron) Owens. When but an infant
his parents started in June, 1S43, «'''i "hat is known as the second Oregon immigration to cross the then almost unknown
and trackless plains, and with ox teams they pursued their weary journey, finally arriving in The Dalles in November of that
year. They there secured canoes and came down the Columbia river to Astoria, and there his father concluded to locale, se-
lecting a farm on Clatsop plains where he resided until the fall of 1853, when they came to Douglas county ami located on ihe
place now owned by Rev. J. R. N. Bell, a short distance from Roseburg. Here our subject attended school, and at the age
.jf fifteen years was placed in a high school at Dallas, Polk county. On his return from school, although yet a boy, he spent
two years in the mines of Southern Oregon, and again returned to Rosebui^ and engaged in farming and stock raising, which

536 APPENDIX.

the foilowei until 1S77. In the latter year the "Grange Business Association of Koseburg" was organized and Mr. Owen
was elected its manager — a position he still holds — and to whose able management is due the present success of that large or-
ganization. In June, 1S74, Douglas county honored Mr. Owens with a seat in the state senate, an office he filled with ability
and to the utmost satisfaction of his constituents. Mr. Owens belongs to that class which thinks that those who will, may win.
As a business man he has the confidence of all who know him; as a citizen, the respect which his character and actions in life
have entitled him; and what he possesses of this world's goods is the result of judicious labor prompted by his early surround-
ings, and not the reward of chance [or birth. Mr. Owens was married in Roseburg, August 7, 1864, to Miss Nannie L.
•Stevens, a native of Ohio. By this union they have one son, Lafayette, and two daughters, Esther and Effie. In conclusion
we would say of Mr. Owens that the fortune which in the autumn of life surrounds him has been gathered by worthy hand,
and properly rewards the life labors of a pioneer of his country. It is not infrequent that those who struggle less, and are fa-
vored according to their efforts, are envious of those who succeed; but we can only say, success is generally the result, as in
, this case, of intelligent and honorable endeavor to succeed. In his wanderings, seeking a favored spot for a life home, he has
woven into his history some strange adventures and hair breadth escajies — when want of food, and the Indian scalping knife
has lurked close upon his trail— but which to detail would require more space than is admissible iii this work.

P. P. PALMER. — This well known gentleman and highly respected citizen, is a resident of Scottsburg, Douglas
county. Mr. Palmer was born in Sussex county, Delaware, October 5, 1826, and resided on his father's farm until twenty
years of age. He then went to Madison county and there found employment as a salesman in a store for two and one half
yeirs. He then started west, and on April i, 1850, joined a train at St. Joseph, Missouri, to come to Oregon, arriving in
Portland on the loth day of October of that year. Mr. Palmer then proceeded to Yreka, California, where he followed min-
ing, but for a short time; returning to Yamhill county and in the fall of 1851 came to Douglas county and first located in Gar-
den valley. In 1857 he moved to the place now owned by Levi Kent, and there resided for five years. In 1863 Mr. Palmer
was appointed inspector of customs at Gardiner, and conseejuently transferred his residence to that place, where he remained in
that capacity (for a time post master of Gardiner) until 1871, when he purchased and moved to his present property at Scotts-
burg and engaged in the mercantile business, which he followed successfully for ten or twelve years. He then closed out and in
1884 opened his present hotel at Scottsburg, the "Palmer House," a view of which appears in this work. If present indica-
tions can be relied on, the Palmer House is sure to succeed, as with Mr. Palmer and his hospitable family the weary stranger
always finds the comforts of a w^ell conducted hotel. Mr. Palmer was united in marriage at Wilbur, Douglas county, March
6, 1856, to Miss Mary Slocum, a native of Kentucky, by which union they have had eleven children, all of whom are living except
one, William E., who died December 25, 1883; AUie, now Mrs. Captain J. Hill; .\lbert, Elmer, Edith, Gussie, Annie,
Mary, Elsie, Minnie and Pursey.

CAPT. JUDAH PARKER.— The subject of this sketch a well known and highly respected citizen of Coos county,
and resident of I'arkersburg, on the Coquille river, is a gentleman of whom a very respectable volume might be written could
the facts of his changing and energetic life be fully given. Mr. Parker was born in Essex county. New Jersey, July 17, 1829,
and there resided until his fifteenth year. His parents then removed to New York, locating in Seneca county; there our sub-
ject assisted his father — the latter being a contracter and builder — for a period of six years. On reaching his majority Mr. Parker
concluded to see some of the world and consequently shipped on board a whaling vessel bound for the Arctic ocean. After a
cruise of eighteen months they arrived at the Sandwich Islands, where our subject shipped on board the bark Bayard and
returned to America, following coasting until the fall of 1853, when he shipped on board the ship Parthenon and came around
Cape Horn, arriving in San Francisco in February, 1854. He not unlike all the early Californians immediately pioceeded to
the Gold fields, and for four years prosecuted his search for the precious metal, in Nevada county, meeting with moderate suc-
cess. We next find Mr. Parker in the employ of the Pacific mail steamship company in the capacity of ship carpenter, and
remained in their employ plying in that capacity between San Francisco and Panama until 1862. In the (all of that year Mr-
Parker with the assistance of Mr. Wm. Ireland concluded to try to recover the immense treasure of the lost Golden Gate, which
foundered ofl^ the coast of Me.xico. Accordingly they fitted out the schooner Wm. Ireland, and sixty days later found them in
the vicinity of the lost vessel — they being the fifth expedition that undertook to secure the Golden treasure. Through the
admirable management and use of hydraulic pressure, a method discovered by Capt. Parker, they were enabled to secure $640,-
000 of the two millions lost, and returned to San Francisco. On two subsequent occasions Capt. Parker went in pursuit of the
treasure ; the second time being the winter of 1863-4, on which occasion he succeeded in raising some $6o,ckX). The third
attempt was made in 187D, when he found the wreck to be buried in twenty feet of sand. He then returned to San Francisco
and fitted out the steamer Mary Taylor, and again started in pursuit of the lost treasure — this time to South America — with the
intention of raising an immense amount of money that had gone down with the wrecked Leo Cadia, a vessel that had foundered
in the year 1802. In this undertaking, we may also mention, was Jlr. G.W. Cooley, now a resident of Ellensburg, who had the
misfortune of losing one of his eyes while performing the services of a diver. Capt Parker secured about five thousand Spanish
dollars but on account of the long period in which they had lain in the salt water, were utterly worthless. He then returned to
Calao with the intention of selling his vessel, but failing in this he returned to San Francisco, and in 1875 came to Coos county,
first locating at Eastport, and about one year later moved to the present site of Parkersburg, and began the erection of a saw
mill which he has since, and at the present time operates — a view and history of which will be found in this work. Mr.
Parker was united in marriage in San Francisco, April 6, 1863, to Miss Ottile Frederick, a native of Germany; by this union
they had four children, three of whom are living, viz: Ottile E., Georgianna and Warren.

JOSHUA PATTERSON was born in Eaton county, Michigan, December 2, 1857. His parents took him to Iowa
when quite young, and from Belfountain they crossed the plains to Oregon in 1862, being five months and five days making the
journey to Ashland. The family first settled on the Holton ranch, where they resided about one year, then took up a residence
on a farm five miles north of Ashland, where the father lived up to the time of his death. The subject of this sketch went to
California in the fall of 1S72, and engaged in farming and running a threshing machine for about nine years. He there made

APPENDIX. 537

the acquaintance and married Ella Jane Fewel on the iSth of September, iS8i. They came to Oregon that fall and settled on
the old homestead where he has since lived. His children are Myrtle, born July 4, 1882, and Henry Clay, born Nov. 12, 1S83.

C. T. PAYNE.— Among the early settlers of Oregon is the subject of this sketch, and a view of his residence is one
of the illustrations in this history. He was born in Keystville, Chariton countv, Missouri, on the ISth of December, 1831.
Here he grew to manhood and married Elizabeth McCollum, April 15, 1852; She was born in Chariton county, Missouri,
October 21, 1834. They emigrated to Oregon with ox teams in 1852, via. overland route, and arrived in Linn county, where Ihey
settled August loth of that year. Here he maintained a permanent residence until coming to Jackson county in June 1668,
and the following Februaiy settled on his present ranch. John, James M., David, Sarah E., Martha J., Minnie May, Stacy,
Champ T., Taylor, Mandy Lee and Richard F. are the names of their children.

CYRUS H. PICKENS,- -(deceased.)— Mr. Pickens was born in Green county, North Carolina, November 8, iSot.
and is a descendant of that branch of the family which is so well known in that state to-day. He emigrated to California in
l?49, crossing the isthmus of Panama. In 1865 he came to Jackson county, and settled on the ranch now owned by his son,
Elijah P. Pickens, and died there, aged seventy-seven years. He married Helen Moore, who was born in Landon county, Vir-
ginia, July 6 1808. Elijah P. Pickens, son of the above, was born in Pleasants county, Virginia, August 3, 1841. In 1858
Mr. Pickens came to California, settling in Siskiyou county where he lived until 1878, then moved to Jackson county and set-
tled on the farm of his father in Table Rock precinct— a view of which is found in this work. He married Elizabeth A.
Everill, a native of England.

FRANCIS M. PLYMALE, bom in Giles county, Va., March 17, 1833. He went to Kno.x county, III., about
the year 1835. and there was educated and raised on a farm until the j-ear 1852, when the family crossed the plains with ox
teams, and settled in Jacksonville, where his fathe.r died. In March, 1853, Mr. Plymale settled on his present ranch six miles
northeast from Jacksonville, where he has since lived. He married Jane E. Nickols, December 28, 1865. Anna, Norah,
Cassie, Francis G., John S. and Medie are the names of his children.

WILLIAM J. PLYMALE, whose portrait appears in this work, was born in Knox county, Illinois, February 9,
1S37. In the year 1852 his parents emigrated to Oregon, arriving in November at Jacksonville, Jackson county. Here Mr.
Plymale received his primary education, and finished a course at the Willamette University. He first engaged in farming in
this county, and followed this occupation about twenty-three years. He has resided in Jacksonville about ten years. He was
twice elected county surveyor of Jackson county, and to the legislature in 1874. He married Josephine L. Martin, daughter of
William J. Martin, formerly register of the land office at Roseburg. Has a family of nine children living.

JOHN W. PRICE. — This well known and substantial farmer of Oak creek valley, Douglas county, was born in
Richland county, Ohio, near the town of Shelby, November 18, l'S32. When nine years old his parents moved to Bellville,
same county. Mr. Price resided on a farm with his parents until March, 1852, when he conluded to seek his fortune in the
golden state. With three companions he left his home and went to Monroe, Michigan, where they purchased horses and a light
wagon, and with this outfit they undertook to cross the plains to California. On arriving at Green river, Wyoming Territory,
they were induced to change their route and consequently came to the "Webfoot" country, arriving in Oregon early in Septem-
ber, 1852. Mr. Price immediately went to Vreka, Cahfornia, where he found employment with a pack train- -remaining in
this situation some four years. He then located on the ranch now owned by James Short, seven miles east of Roseburg, and
engaged in farming and stock raising for the period of seventeen years, meeting with abundant success. In 187S he purchase<1
his present homestead, then consisting of 700 acres, to which he has since added some 700 more; and now, after many years of
patient toil has a finely stocked and well improved farm, consisting of 1,400 acres located on Oak creek, twelve miles north of
Roseburg. In the summer of 1883 Mr. Price built one of the finest farm residences to be found in Southern Oregon — .1 view
of which will be found in the body of this history. Mr. Price is, indeed, a true gentleman, with whom it is a pleaiure to meet,
and it would be a fortunate thing for Douglas county if it had more such men with the same energy, perseverance and integ-
rity, as Mr. John W. Price. He was united in marriage on the place where he now resides November I, 1857, to Miss Deliah
Oden, a native of Missouri. By this union they have nine children, viz: James N., Charles A., John E., Ida L., Asher L.,
Sarah E., William F., Samuel F. and Dora.

HON. PAINE PAGE PRIM was born in Wilson county, Tennessee, in 1822. He followed the plow on his father's
farm until well along in years, graduating in the law department of the Cumberland University at Lebanon, Tennessee. He
came to Oregon in 1851, the means of transportation being the primitive wagon of the day. He first settled in Linn county,
but moved to Jackson county in 1852, where he was engaged as a miner, and afterwards commenced the practice of law at
Jacksonville. His knowledge of the profession and keen perception of technicalities soon attr.icted the attention of litigants,
and he found himself possessed of a lucrative practice. The year 1857 marked two important epochs in his life, the first being
his marriage with Teresa M. Stearns, which event was closely followed by his election as a member of the slate constitutional
convention. He continued the practice of law until the organization of the state government in 1S59, when he was appoinle<l
supreme judge and ex-officio circuit judge of the first judicial district. This position was held until the act in 1878 wasp.assed
making a separate supreme court, when he was appointed one of the associate judges. He was nominated for the san)c position
in iSSo, but, being defeated, again resumed the practice of his profession, and is now acknowledge<l as one of the leading
attorneys of the first judicial district. He was elected senator from Jackson county in 1S82, and was the Democratic caucus
nominee for United States senator, receiving thirty-three votes for that honorable position. He is a gentleman who has been
prominenily connected with the history of our state for many years and is held in high esteem by relatives and friends.

JOHN G. RAST, the well known proprietor of the Roseburg brewery, is a native of Luzerne, Switzerland, born
May 10, 1S38. In the spring of 1854 with his parents and three sisters he sailed from Havre (or America, arriving in New-
Orleans in May of that year. They proceeded direct to St. Louis, where John was placctl as an apprentice in a furniture man-
ufactory, and he remained one year and then moved to Independence, Missouri, where he continued his trade. Two years
later he, with his parents, moved to Davis county, Kansas, where they engaged in farming until May, 1859, when he joined a

APFEXDIX.

OBBiS&eet to Dotglis oaosal^, >Ir. Rss aode hfe hone fat &e Ibsi tkree t«£is
«i&3b:.CIradisHeaas!<Gr, eaiataeeb. b tfte &JI oT lS&( >&;. R^ cune ta Ras^M^ and indeed aa iMenst ib tbe
8e^&iB^&K«aT«^3iE. G. Mdl. ■> «ftach ^ laBtBed udl iS^t. «iaa m th& j«ar Aer si&nd tdte Ioes of dieir
bRWEij^&e. >b.K3SEaas pa(Aa3d)b.MdrsiHE!SBsai>lfel«)f>a^sBdiididtdKl)nnrarf-^^
aes. ATO»ijf feiiw»gifcgaig|aMigtfet«e«<aqf propati-Ea»iMiglite jjhslinniinfs of dfe IfeBary. He. Kst «ss ■oiried
Bft)K£iase»]iisGlim J<»8siBlS^ Tk^ks^iesfa^of fcwcU&ea. Ri^ebb, SuhkIJ, Auoe 3L aadGei«rade^
THUtASG. REAMS «aeEnna>IJttdi&f^KeKBd^,I>eoaiybctf IS ^«%a le «s aboat ax jkiis old

«a£ ai]|iftH«d W tie Hb&sbTs fi^ Confm^- d>^ Ae wiiAai;, aad aa ds

b^ aaeill iSSf. vies. h£ twdt op lE E^iiac

&ef taaK to

;of RaaiB&iSMa^^iJimirtMnilfaagyaas. Thea. ia Twjwarrioa wiA

ffirTTT-nnnii iif nfti iTi ii Buri^iiill ifftiii jni iiiiiiiiiii fij rum iiiiia Thiijni Retared Ae awJaaHiM
I ftf^ K. P. Eadkolt hg 191 n«e£. He is s pm^neaC
espastsgi^B^Berct JlzaoKBUnasw- Hs portizk ^{lens a d^ woifc. >lained Ijaoiida VfiHiaas, and ks a fatulf

^SMEKAI. JOBH £. ROSS.— Ik alijox of tiiE st^k os ban b Madfeoa coatr. CMo^ Fdnmr is 181S.
^ &!&a novei to FaoisB oart^ bfian. ska he arasfia leas oU; AesKe to Cook cnaaq; IKwis^ m iSlj. He mai-
iii4,raiSm.^^B^szarAIei3a&rKa{na8au,afaacis^slȣed afert^^hadbeeaBond In

l^ Ga!a:dK<[KcametoOB^tB.zadarase3iCnBof a coHfoairaiUdk cn^ the p^^. CoL Ross, Jol Eb^ and an
igaayatGprfRtmte,agA8ie^gMmofc«»i.ganlfciM-,hABadof aem. On the raad bejoid
led «haea eiana had bea aoacfced 19^ Ae Infims. TheroreitEnkdiee^iaalsaileri
Btax^Eiv^vfio praraitobeths Waoapami Tfan- had beat robbed of a

po^. «i£h H. A. & les, cxfieaiB
Amm^ ThetfaB^oaehe
1 of the tnapnr. fai>lA« chE pes
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Bless RsahadftaB of tAi£ dBoaaeEj' of gaid h OSKhjib

«a<fe-^waffitodE»MsoaFi3^hgriiei^arfthaee^siSrf»iwriiiriiii,iii*inAe&Bofi»aL»haihei
«giE6Mfctoae^BsiBrjianram^»the^p«»gogi^n^aadw!asoae of AeSist djjmtnai. of gnM on Stntt's rirar. In
i^teE3BKtoTis&2.^aBcetoJase^&sa£ciedH,aBdlmsOBeaf the&s^samKasof gold od Canpon oedk, in Josqifeme

cBBttT. rfi II I III ■! il I III nil TTiilaaii lili 1 iFIl j iiii tin iiiiiir ffftjliiiilji II il 11 tiiiial if 1 iiirr\ . ifii 11 ih iinrii ih Pii^ii

rtio^dej^B^Biraj, iSsa^a^opaedzbuchsrs ^apatJadksasnagL In Ae faB of 1833. Geneial Rass nbed a 00*-

pi^ a£ ^Hkj mea ad «^ to Rscae waiaij who ««e aptrairfcipd at BktaOf Pone oa Tale IiLe. Thef joned Ben.

^K£ a ]^uu&t of naiBagianls btAnus dsar and Goose ^^^^^ icCHaaag wiA
OffiEfeetaaatieybii^driMMfaaaemof tie MMiy iiir „ «ho fad beatiJBedhylndfaas. Roes and he <

<^ Ae Oican le^xtme. In Jannaiy, iSjs k

iKO&g. Oalfe^fcof jMieof tb8tje»he»as iii^iiiiia 1 coiaael of the 9A itginiat
brGoir.JateW.DtEis. In Ae&Bof 183s a'^xE^-oBe' Ae Ib^™^ "ot obIfb tin oooi^bae m Ae noidieiB pan of
ehesiresvES^iesdi^DsseaieczEwa^ Cofaad Ros boag n oniiii aiinrf of Ae gA i^ael. toot die fidd, fa^t 3er-
oal ieisEe "n»fTr.~;L, aad sas le lai^ sagaseded m iiiiiiiiihiibiI bf CoL J. K. T^mnTJi-i At a spedal rilpftinn hdd Deceadier
IS iSgj, he acK eaajai to i^besebe Jafaoa oamii^ m the HmtieimiA nwimril, to SB araeaacy caBid jyiemoralof Dr. Cle«e-
ls»l,sni£aE:t<hegpBaEddla£BBiajBmec iS66^toAe^^!ane3SSBBfalf. la 1SS6-7 ahem the CaKonia and OiEgan Rziboad

APPEXDIX. 539

coimty in Lbe suie ££Bai£, and was faoeored hf hang a^ipomted ili-i'Minim of ^^ js^Sasir conunsiee. H£ «s$ tBoamtoi cac
of -be icTes-igiiiig committee to report j:5>ca> the acts cfl the preoe&i^ adnmiElxsicic. Gee Roe" psmait, and a Tie*- of Ins
resideiice -^-31 -t firaid in tMs wort

TOBIAS STILLEY RIDDLE was bora in EHnok, Angua 31, 1S49. and «ien bm i was

broa^iit by his pzrt^.r- across iht plains 10 Ortgon. Arriviijg in Dongias canntr earlr in 1852, M r .-ja*

located on lbe prDpeny tier now omn. near the town thai beajs ias iannh- -ng-m.. '"kiddle." Our st": ; ~ ibe

pa:emal roof cnti; :Ji£ age of siceen yeari^ He then started oot to do for 'HiTva'H At that ear>5- z^t th :t:^i.- ;:-,.; -sadk
basines? and laid the fanidatjon for his preseni sarxess. At the age of e^hteoi Mr. RiddJe was nniied in marriage to Miss S.
Smith, a daogiueT of George C. Smith, an old readeot of Engene, and later a readem erf Mrnlt Crt-tt. T' .iic'.a.- conatr. [Mr.
Smith and his son John msl iheir death whiie engaged in the stock boan^s in Happr TaQev, - ■ the hands ol

the Bannock Indians.] From sma-] t.>egir.nTngs Mr- Riddle has bnih np a large =it>H proatabl; - - -^dd of oier-

alion^ no* erteoiSng aH over Sonthem Orsgo:^ He also oims a ralnable farm in Cov creet r _ c of 440 acres,

and a beantifal readence in Canyioniine There he now reades, a tiew of vUdi wiD be fcnmd i:: tl.? hif.- .r-. . Mr. Riddle has a
family of ai children, irhose names are: Carrie I_, Walter C, Fred, Eva, Benjajidn and f^esler.

ANDREW SAWYERS was bom near St. Johns, Xew Ersmswick, April lo, 1&22, of Scotti-Irish descent. Wfaes
be was fom years of age his parents mcrred to Philadelphia. Bang ls6 mcaherless at an early age be was placed by ins iatber
on a iarm where be remained tmiil his sereaisenifa year, then retBmed 10 Phil^elphia and sored an apprenticeship at the
carpenlex rrade, which be followed in the Qaaia City mail 1S43, when he went to Xew York. A Jew months later he
moved to Xew Orleans, there working at his trade imtil Octoiber, 1&49. He ihea. with his -wHt and two r-'h^TA-j-n took pas-
sage on the -Wiri- Waitermjai via. Cape Horn, for Sao Francisca arriring there in May, 1850. Mr. Sawyas immediately
fonmd empJorment at his trade, which be foUywed til! rbe fall of 185a when he •^■"^ to Or^an, ists. Iccaling at Sccstsbm^. A
fern weeks later he settled ob his p*"eseHi pioii>errv, lune mil^ east of Scotlsbiag. now coosistii^ of a ^^^^ ^axm of 640 acres.
A liew of his &rm r^dence wiD be focnwd in this history. Mr. Sawyeas was wTttr^rt 13 niarri^e in Xew Orleans, December
25. 1S44, to Miss Fannie McDowell, a natrre of Fliiladelpihia, Tbey hare ><»fl ten dnldren, Sve of wbom are £vri^ vie
Catherine, now Mis. Josiah Stevens; Annie, now Xlrs. Joseph Reed: Margaret, now Jfe. Peter Xeboo; Famoe and Wm. S.

JAMES F. SHEFFIELD, is a native of Hnrom comniy, Ohis; was bom Ai^nst 5, 1S25, and there resided mail
the spring of 1S50. On bearing of the wonderfiil wealth to be foamd on the PaciBc coast he started in the s^wii^ of '^i' year
for Califcmia, and there followed minii^ iinti] 1852, when he r-^-T^ 10 OregOfn. ^•"^ in 1S53 to Douglas coiimtT, and pm^ciiased
his present valnable farni, consjstii^ of 470 acres two and a half ■mTl.-s soath of Roseinng. an the ba-nt-t. erf lie Umpqna, 00
which he has erected a 5ne farm readesce; a view of which appears in this work.

THOMAS SHRUM- — This wd] known diizen ca Donglas coomy, and earJy poomesr of ORgom, is a naiire of linooiia
connty, Missom, and was bom December &, 1827: residing cm las fether's isna nntil tlie sfiiig of 1S46. In .^pril of dia:
Tear, accompanied bv t^is father. XDOtber. three sasters aT>d ^«'e brotl>*!^ ^^tarre^ ^nt*^ -"t 'ea^r^ **stTcsf tV? T^lains" to ^^■^ •Jsr
west. After six months of travefij^ and many hi' ' 'rcenvei^e

east of Salem where they located an a farm. Ti - .> "aeo he with

one brother hastened to the now Eldorado and f : _ ■ fi He thea

rem-Tied to his hc.tne near Salem and redded the: . lz:.. i>54_ .-ii~.r.; t;-_..e. .;..-• :' be sdecscd

Donglas county for his niture home and at that lime pnrdiased 160 aaes one mile north o: In 1864 1*

pnrchased his present hotnestead coinaaiEg cf 600 acres on the banks of the Cjnpqna rrver. : ^e many asd

valaable improremenls — a view of which wiH be ioansd in '>'ts wciri. .\3d now, a/: . r '>lr. SbrSB is

prepared to take the cosifotts that only attend those who lead an hooest and well spitr. - ;-d in MsioB

connty. October 2<x. iS57, to Miss Casandra Kams, a native ci Indiana. They hav- 1 . . »ic De£a J.

bom .\agast 2Q. 1S5S, Stephen J. bomjanaary 24, iS5q, .\vTiJia W. born -\agiis: l^. i^^l. ^.^rir. z^ ."r:. Slay 21, l96^
Mary R. bom May 17. 1S65, EopimmaE. bora .\pril 30. 1867, and George W. bom Xovemher 15, 1S69.

THOMAS J. SINGLETON.— This old and well known lesiiieat of Rosebarg. and Dooglas aianiT. was bora in Lin-
coln county, Keotncky, -\pril 30, I S35. Wheabe was bot foor yc-- -•' -7 "■ ■-- " - -- -- ■ ■• H in

Sheridan coonty, and a few years later located in Linn coenty, » ■ ha>

be with his parents and brothers started across the plains to Or ^ i»

Marion ooeniy. near Salem, fee — - -- ^- - ^'^-- ' "■■i .__=.. . ■ '

creek. Mr. Sii^letoo Bred w . 21, 1855^ whtr

E Tayior, ot Marioa coonty, l t.iace he now o»

slead, «!« Jsner whjdj be DOW i.>, . ,^,— ,. -, -,---; . . ,^ _ _^,_

wife he roored his home into RoseDoig wtwre he cow resiits w-:.- J csuJdrea, tic Mair » ., oow

tbe wife of S. L Thomlosi. Thomas £. .\da M.. William L.. Er.

WILLIAM B. SINGLETON. -This well and hvc^
coianty, Kentadry, bom .\agosi 16. 1S37. In the sprii^ cf 1S52. !■: -
arrivii^ at Portland in the fall erf that year. In 1S54. they cam;

years later Mr. S. was aaited in marriage to ifiss Martha T. Co:,-;. .

creek Taller; a Tiew of which appears m this History. Mr. Sii^laoa tus made ausy laprcrvmects oe a ait-rA.... ^^^^^ai
place, tmdl now be poss^ses ooe of tbe aosl desaabk ftras to be kmad is Do«$Us ccsoty. He is ei^^ed i£ {Tcoeral &iv-
ii^ and stock niai^.

CAPTAIN THOMAS SMITH was bcwn in CampbeB ooDty K «i

when Tbocoas was bsn sinteea years of ^c. .\t the ^c of twemr-diri-- ■ -ae

ocumiy. where he reraained workii^ at tbe carpenter trade sntil 1S3Q. whe- . .- re-

540 APPENDIX.

mained in Texas ten years, and the lessons there learned in frontier life were of great advantage to him in his subsequent pio-
neer life on the Pacific. In 1849 he came to California, crossing the plains by way of Fredericksburg and El Paso, Texas,
New Mexico and Arizona, and the great desert through Lower California and arrived in the mines in October of that year. At
Fredericksburg he was elected captain of a company of seventy-live men who were the pioneers over this route for 50c miles to
El Passo. After his arrival in the mines he took sick and was not able to work any that year. The ne.xt summer he went to
Feather river where he was again taken sick, but managed to make his way to Reading, where in the fall he was broken up by
robberies by the Pitt River Indians. In the spring of 1851 he came to the Yreka mines, where, hearing of the Oregon mines
down in what is now Josephine county, crossed the Siskiyous on the 7th of June and engaged in mining on Josephine creek
until October. When returnmg, he prospected for and found gold in considerable quantities at Blackwell and Willow Springs.
Believing that good mines would soon be found at these places, he at once determined if possible to raise a crop of vegetables
in the valley to sell to the miners. He at once located on the place until recently known as Capt. Smith's ranch, and went to
Yreka to find some other parties who were wiUing to join him in such an enterprise. David Earl, Fred Albuding and Patrick
Dunn agreed to take the chances and at once began to prepare for the enterprise. Mr. Smith returned at once to his claim
where he remained alone eleven days before the arrival of the other m^n. It was on the nth day of November of that year
(1851) that the Captain pitched his tent in this beautiful valley, and the same spot was his home for twenty years, when tiring
of farming he sold the old home and remos'ed to Ashland. During the early years of his life in this home he passed through
many exciting experiences. For several years Indian Chief Tiusu and band were his near neighbors and made themselves more
sociable than agreeable to the Captain. In the wars of 1853-5, he was frequently called upon by neighbors to assist in chastis-
ing the Indians for robbery, and in the adoption of measures to prevent this band from engaging with the balance of the Rogue
Rivers in active hostilities against the white people. Mr. Smith was called by his constituents to represent them in the territorial
legislature of 1S55-6. In 186S he was elected to the state legislature, and again in 1880 re-elected to the same position. He
was married to Margaret J. Harrison, daughter of William Harrison, of Crawford county, Missouri, in August, 1857. Harrison
county, Kentucky, was named in honor of her grand-father, who was a relative of President William H. Harrison. Mrs. Smith
died December 22, 1874. Ella C. is the only child.

H. C. STANTON, or as he is more familiarly known, "Hardy" Stanton, was born in the town of Westerlon, Albany
county. New York, September 27, 1826. In the fall of 1851, he came to Moultrie county. 111., and during the summer of 1853
crossed the plains and settled in that beautiful spot known as Garden valley of this county. From 1862 to 1865 Mr. Stanton mined
on Salmon river and in the Boise basin. In the spring of i865, he settled in Roseburg, and was commissioned post-master for
the Roseburg post-office by Alex. W. Randall Post-master General, December 6, 1867, upon the duties of which position he
entered on the 9th, of January, 1868. This position he has held continuously ever since his appointment by the Post-master
General, until May 22, 1883, when the office was designated a third class office, and he was re-appointed post-master by Presi-
dent Arthur. In September, 1872, he commenced the mercantile business, and on July 23, 1873, he was married to Jennie M.
Sinclair, a daughter of James Sinclair, formerly a factor or governor for the Hudson Bay Company. Mr. Stanton's children
were born as follows: Lucy M., May 24, 1874; Edwin Cole, February 7, 1876, and Lillian A., August 22, 1883. A view of Mr.
-Stanton's residence will be found among the illustrations of this history.

HON. DANIEL W. STEARNS, a prominent capitalist of Oakland, Douglas county, Oregon, and a native of the
town of Chesterfield, Cheshire, county. New Hampshire; born December 31, 1821. Resided with his parents on a farm until
twenty-two years of age, receiving his education in part at the common schools and afterward taking an accademic cource. At
the above age Mr. .Stearns went to Palmer, Mass., where he found employment in a mercantile house for one year. He then
engaged in business for himself in Ware, Mass., until 1847, when he closed out and went to Boston. That ever memorable
year, 1849 found Mr. Stearns among the Argonauts coming by the way of the Isthmas to California, to seek fortunes in the rich
'l'gg>"gs of which all had heard so much. He arrived in San Francisco, July 4th, and proceeded at once to the mines, where
he engaged in difi'erent pursuits until 1852, when he w^as called East on the serious illness of his wife. Having once enjoyed
the delightful climate of the Pacific coast, on the recovery of his wife he again set sail in 1853, for California — this t'me via. the
Nicuragua route. Shortly after his arrival in San Francisco he came to Scottsburg, Douglas county, and engaged in business
in the mercantile firm of Brown, Drum & Co., in which he remained but a short time, when he drew out his interest and opened
a general merchandise store in Jacksonville, Jackson county, and continued until 1857, when his store was entirely consumed
by fire. Mr. Stearns returned to Umpqua county, locating on a farm near Elkton, and there remained for two years. In 1867
Mr. Stearns was elected to the office of county treasurer of Umpqua county, for two years; at the end of which time he removed
to Roseburg, and in 1874 was elected by a large majority as representative to the state legislature for Douglas county. In 1875
Mr. Stearns removed to Oakland— where he now resides— and in 1880 was elected state senator. Mr. Stearns was married in
Massachusetts, January 3, 1847, to Miss Almira Fay, by whom he has five sons, viz: George J. at present a leading merchant Of
Oakland, Oregon; Loyal B. a prominent attorney of Portland and the present county judge of Multnomah county; A. F., at
present merchandising in Oakland, Oregon; John W. merchant in Walla Walla, W. T., and Ralph S. in the employ of the O.
& C. R. R. Co. A view of Mr. Stearns' nice residence in Oakland, together, w^ith that of his son George J. is placed among
the illustrations of this volume.

FENDAL SUTHERLIN. — The largest land owner and recognized wealthiest resident of Douglas county, is a native
of Indiana, where his younger days were s]>enl until 1848, when he came with his parents to Oregon and began the battle of life
for himself. By economy, industry and hard work he has accomplished that which other men with less energy would fail to do.
Mr. Sutherlin is married and has a family of five children. He now resides in Oakland, Oregon, and has retired from the
active pursuits of life with the exception of the managing of his large financial business. A view of Mr. Sutherlin's early home
is placed in this work.

STEPHEN CLARK TA'VLOR, born in Franklin county, Massachusetts, September 17, 1828. When two years
oldhis parents emigrated to Ashtabula county, Ohio. Here they lived seven years, then moved to Winnebago county, Illinois,

APPENDIX. 541

settling in Pecalonica.~ Here he married Mary A. Prescott, October 24, 1850. They came to Oregon in 1853, crossing the
plains with ox teams, and after a journey of six months they arrived in Jackson county, locating on their present farm four
miles northeast of Phoenix, November 8, 1853. Here Mr. Taylor erected a cabin, the only tools he had to do the work with
being a jack-knife and ax. This cabin was 16x20 feet, made of pine logs four high, covered with "shakes." In this rude
dwelling they lived during the winter, the only furniture being two tin plates, a few knives and fork.s, and wooden benches.
The method for cooking bread adopted Ijy Mrs. Taylor was novel as well as original. A fire was made on the earth, and when
a sufficient quantity of coals had accumulated to make the ground hot, they were removed, and two stones were set on either
s'.de, edgewise, and on these another flat stone was placed (having been previously healed), and in this oven the iron pan hold-
ing the dough was placed and baked to a turn. They lived on this ranch about four years (it being a donation claim), and then
took up their abode on an adjoining piece of property, owned by Mr. Taylor's father, and in after years the subject of our
sketch became its owner. Mr. Taylor's children are: Henry H., Willis W., Ellen Elizabeth and Corey Clark.

S. I. THORNTON is a son of Jeptha Thornton, an old and highly respected citizen of Oak creek, Douglas county,
and is a native of DeKalb county, Missouri, born March 2, 1855. When ten years old his parents crossed the plains to Oregon
and settled in Douglas county, in 1866. At the age of twenty years S. I. started out to do for himself — with what succe.ssmay
be seen in the valuable farm he now possesses, consisting of 300 acres located in one of the most fertile valleys (Deer creek), to
be found in Douglas county, on which he has built himself a fine residence — a view of which appears in this work. At the
present time Mr. Thornton is engaged in a profitable livery business in Roseburg, where he now resides; and although yet a
young man, he has through his energy and business ability secured a comfortable compettfney. and is a fit subject for other
young men to imitate. Mr. Thornton was united in marriage January 26, 1878, to Miss Jennie, eldest daughter of Mr. T. [.
Singleton, by which union they have one son and one daughter — Arthur Lee and Lena V.

RICHARD THOMAS, is a native of .Schuylkill county, Pennsylvania, born November 25, 1837, and there resided
until 1853, when he came to this coast via Nicauragua, and first settled in California, where he followed mining until 1856. He
then came to Oregon in the fall, direct to Douglas county, and engaged in farming, in which he was successful, acquiring some
1,700 acres of land. In 1872 he moved his family to Oakland, and there opened a hotel, which he has successfully managed
ever since. Is at present the proprietor and owner of the Depot Hotel, a first class house, a view of which may be seen in this
history. Mr. Thomas was married in May, 1864, to Mrs. Sarah E. Cozad, a daughter of Dr. L. Hall. They have two chil-
dren, Fannie and Mary.

GEN. JAMES CLARKE TOLMAN.— One of the leading citizens of Jackson county and foremost among the
representative men of Oregon, is (Jen. James Clarke Tolman, Surveyor General of this state. A man of great decision of
character and executive ability, he has always occupied the position of leader of his fellowmen, and after fifty years of active
participation in the aflfairs of his country, retains the confidence and respect of not only his political associates, but of adherents
to the opposing party. From his youth an enthusiastic whig, he has been, during the lifetime of the party, a consistent and
unswerving, republican. He comes of a family of patriots and pioneers, and inherited the genuine pioneer instincts, those of
the higher type — not the feeling that makes one shun the intellectual advantages and refinements of older communities because
of a lack of sympathy with, and appreciation of, them, but that nobler sentiment which impels its possessor to carve out his own
fortune from the crude material and to develop and improve the wilderness in accordance with the creator's jjlan of upward
progression. His father, Seth Tolman, was of Holland extraction and Mary, his mother, English, a daughter of Captain
Clarke, a veteran of the Revolutionary war, serving in the ranks of the Continentals from the lioston tea party till the close of
the long struggle for independence. When the war was over his parents settled in Washington county, Pennsylvania, but by
discreet conduct managed to escape ruin from the devastations of the Tom Tinker whisky insurrectionists. They next removed
to Marrietta, Ohio, where they were frequently compelled to "fort up" in block houses with their neighbors to defend them-
selves from hostile Indians. Judge Tolman was born in Washington county, Ohio, March 12, 1813, and eight years later
moved with his parents to Champaign county, in the same state. Those were the pioneer days of Ohio, when log houses were
the only habitations, and these few and far between, and when the little log school house hektsway. In such a house he lived,
and in such he received his education — and it might be said that from such have sprung many of the greatest men of our nation,
not the least of which are Lincoln, Chase, Grant and Garfield. At the age of seventeen he apprenticed himself to Jesse C.
Phillips (a cousin of Tom Corwin), and spent three years in learning the business of manufacturing leather. He then entered
the university at Athens, Ohio, pursuing English branches with characteristic assiduity for a year, during which time he also
imbibed much knowledge of a useful and practical nature by the exertion of his great powers of observations. For several years
he engaged in various pursuits, lending to each his full energy and enthusiasm, and being an earnest supporter of General Har-
rison and the unsuccessfiil whig ticket in 1836. The family, consisting of father, mother, two brothers and himself (a sister and
brother having died), removed to Iowa in 1839, and settled in Van Buren county, began again a genuine pioneer life. Land
claimants were bought out and 200 acres of land were bid in at public sale in Burlington, and the Gen. engaged in farming,
encountering all the trials and hardships of a frontier life. Iowa at that time was strongly democratic, yet he adhered firmly to
his whig principles. He was placed on the ticket of that party for the territorial legislature, and though party lines were closely
drawn and a warm canvass followed, during which he was the only whig speaker on the ticket, he obtained 400 democratic
votes and only missed 60 voles of being elected. In the fall of 1845 he removed to Otlumwa and engaged in the manufacture
of leather. Here he was again placed on the whig ticket, contrary to his desires, but accepted the nomination at the solicita-
tion of friends who urged that his opponent was hard to defeat. The whole county ticket was elected, though the .lemocralic
territorial ticket received 125 majority. In 1844 his thoughts turneil towards the Pacific, and when news of the gold discovery
reached Iowa in the fall of 1848, he began preparing to seek the El Dorado in the spring. In due time he starlc.1, and as sole
pilot of an ox team he arrived in the mines on the seventh of October, 1849. Declining several advantageous business offers, he
went to work with the i>ick and shovel .as a genuine miner. His usual energy and attention to his business won him success,
and he returned to Iowa in the fall of 1S51 well rewarded for his California venture. Ill health during the winter causeil him

542 APPENDIX.

to wind up his business and prepare to again seek the shores of the Pacific. On the twenty-seventh of April, 1852, he was
married to Elizabeth E. Coe, of Oskaloosa, Iowa, and within forty-eight hours was again enroute across the plains, the pilot and
general adviser often wagons of emigrants. The train reached Vreka in 82 days without the loss of an animal, notwithstanding
they had to fight their way through the Modoc country. Gen. Tolman crossed the Siskiyous into Rogue river valley with a
portion of the train, arriving the last of August, and bringing the first families to the valley from across the plains direct. He
purchased the rights of two squatters and began preparing for raising stock. Early in 1853, perceiving the impending tiouble
with the Indians, he look his stock to California and sold them. He then went to Coos Bay to look after some investments he
had made there for two young men, and returned to the valley in time to sit on the coroner's jury which investigated the death
of the first white victim in the Indian war of 1853. When the war was over he sold out his place, and with his wife and one
child took a mule-back ride to Empire City, on Coos Bay. He soon withdrew from the company without realizing anything
on his investment, and took up a half section of land upon which is located the town of Marshfield, where he erected a rude
house for his family. He spent the spring of 1S54 in exploring that region, being the first white man to open a trail across the
isihaius between Coos Bay and Coquille river. In August, 1854, he returned to Rogue river valley, leaving his claim in charge
of another man, who sold it out and vamoosed. The Judge upon his return to the valley purchased for $8,500 the ranch he
now owns, including the stock thereon and again engaged in stock raising. When the Indian war broke out in 1S55, he hastily
gatliered his stock and drove them to California, and sold them for what they would bring. It was two years before he could
resume his business. He then purchased blooded stock — English turf horses, Morgans and Lionhearts — and in a few years
realized handsomely on his investment. The severe winters of 186 1-2 almost annihilated his band of cattle. When the state
government was organized in 1858, Mr. Tolman was elected Judge of Jackson county by a large majority although three-fourths
of the voters were democrats. He was re-elected in 1862, defeating his opponent two to one. In this important position he
was enabled during the. critical times of the civil war to do more than any one else to prevent open hostilities; also to reduce
taxation fifty per cent., and rescue the county from threatened bankruptcy. He was nominated for governor on the republican
ticket in 1874, but the formation of a third party gave the administration into the hands of the democracy, and he accepted his
defeat with becoming resignation. In 187S Judge Tolman was appointed Surveyor General of Oregon by President Hayes, and
re-appointed by President Arthur in 18S2. His administration of the affairs of that office meets with the hearty approval of the
administration and of the people generally. He is firin and prompt in the discharge of his official duties, and never has his
integrity or motives been impeached. During half a century of active business and official life he has won and retains the
respect of all with whom he has come in contact, irrespective of their political opinions; and though he has never sought election
or appointment to office, they have both come to him unsolicited. In these days of machine politics and corruption in office, it
should be Oregon's boast that she possesses an official who occupies a higher plane. Gen. Tolnian's portrait appears in this
work.

JOHN P. TUPPER, was born in Colchester county,Nova Scotia, August 22, 1829. At the age of si.xteen he entered
a ship yard to learn the trade of ship carpenter. After serving an apprenticeship of four years, he worked at his trade in his
native country until 1869, when he came to California, arriving in San Francisco June 12. He there found employinent at his
trade for a few months, and then came to Coos Bay to take charge of the building of a schooner at Marshfield, where he
resided until 1877. In the spring of that year Mr. Tupper concluded to try his fortune in the Black Hills, but after a short
stay in Colorado returned to Coos county, fully convinced that "all is not gold that glitters." In the spring of 1881 Mr. Tup-
per was employed to take charge of the government improvements at the mouth of the Coquille. While on this work he was
so impressed with the beauties of the place where he now resides that he purchased 160 acres at the mouth ot the Coquille
river, and in 1882 built his present hotel, the "Ocean House," a view of which will be found in this work — and in 18S3 laid
off the town of Seaside City, which promises to be a leading summer resort in Southern Oregon. Mr. Tupper was married in
Falmouth, Nova Scotia, October 3, 1861, to Miss Martha A. Lynch, a native of Nova Scotia. They have one son, Ben-
jamin F.

HON. JACOB WAGNER, of Ashland, who is owner and proprietor of the Ashland Flouring Mills, was born at
Dayton, Ohio, September 26, 1820. With his parents, John and Hester Wagner, he removed to Elkhart county, Indiana.
From thence he came to Louisa county, Iowa; and from thence to Oregon in 1850, and settled on Wagner creek, Jackson
county, in the spring of 1852. (n 1862 he moved to Ashland, where he resides at this writing. He was state senator from
June, 1862, to June, 1866, and was at the extra session of the legislature called together to adopt the 13th amendment to the
constitution of the United States — was county commissioner in 1874-5, ^"<^ ^^ ti^^n ^ prominent and honored citizen from the
first. In i860 he returned to Iowa and was united in marriage to Miss Ella Hendrix. Their children are: Annettie, John
M., Fred D., Mabel E., Ella T., Jessie N. and Jacob Ernest.

JOHN P. WALKER, was born in Christian county, Kentucky, and is now in his sixty-second year. In 1S27 he,
with his parents, moved to Illinois, and in 1839 to Iowa. There he engaged in farming until 1849, when the gold fields of
California lured him across the plains to the golden state. However, he sojourned in the gold fields but a few months, when
he returned to Iowa. Like most others who once enjoyed the beautiful climate of the Pacific coast, he concluded to come
to Oregon, which he did in 1S53, by the southern route, direct to Jackson county, where he has since lived, amassed a com
petency, and built up a reputation for truth, honesty, and integrity. Mr. Walker was married January 26, 1855, to Mary A.
relict of C. F. Walker, and daughter of Nathaniel Myer, late of Ashland. His family now consists of his wife and four chil
dren, viz: Mary E., Milo A:, Cassius C. and Annie T. His home — a view of which appears in this history — is situated on
mile south of Ashland, is among the most valuable and best improved farms in Southern Oregon. Mr. Walker is ever ready,
both by means and counsel, to assist in the advancement of every good cause. Thus distinguished for all the virtues that
adorn the character of friend, neighbor, and citizen, he lives in his own quiet way in the enjoyment of the fruits of his own
industry.

APPENDIX.

543

FRAZIER WARD, was born in Warren county, Missouri, May lo, 1832. At the early age of thirteen years he was
left an o,phan-h.s father dying when Frazier was but six years old. On the death of his mother he was adopted into the
family of Mr. John Wjatt, with whom he lived until twenty-one years of age. He then concluded to come to the Pacific coast
and in the spring of 1853 joined a party of emigrants to Oregon. On his arrival in this state Mr. Ward came direct to Doug-
las county, first locating in the French settlement, and in the fall of that year located his present farm, consisting of 320 acres,
some four miles north of Looking-glass, where he has since resided, successfully engaged in general farming and stock raising'.
In addition to his splendid farm on which he resides, Mr. Ward owns some 900 acres north of Coles' valley, A view of his
residence will be found in this work. Mr. Ward was married in the French settlement in 1S57, to Mary A., the youngest
daughter of H. B. Flournoy, now deceased, an early and highly respected citizen of Douglas county, and the firs't settler in the
valley that now bears his name. They had nine children, of whom three are deceased. Those living are: Howard I,.,
Lillie N., Mary V., Thomas F., Winnie O. and MaggieA. Those deceased are: Oscar A., Samuel H. and Whafie W.

COLONEL JAMES WATERS, was born February 22, 1797, in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Fought in the war
of 1812 as a volunteer; enlisted in regular army in 1818, served five years and was discharged in 1823; fought under Colonel
Taylor in Seminole war in 1S36-7. In the fall of 1837 he was under the command of General Deniphan, in the fight against
the Mormons in Missouri. Came to Oregon in 1843. Entered the Cayuse war as lieutenant-colonel, and at the death of
Colonel Gilliam was promoted to colonel. He moved to Douglas county in 1S53, and is now living on Looking-glass creek
about one and three-fourth mile from Looking-glass village. He was married in 1825 to Miss Mary Wills, to whom were born
si.x children.

JOHN W. WEAVER, a resident of Douglas county, Oregon, since 1850, was born in Blunt county Tennessee,
February 28, 1832. When he was three years old his parents moved to Clay county, Kentucky, where he received a common
school education, and resided until 1842. After a short stay in Van Buren county, he with his parents moved to Taney county,
Missouri, and there resided until April 22, 1850, when Mr. Weaver, with his father, mother, one brother and twosistens, started
with O.X teams to Oregon. After a tedious trip of six months— to a day— they first entered the boundaries of Oregon. July 8,
1851, the family came to Douglas county and settled on the place now owned by Mr. Weaver, and one year later built the
residence in which Mr. Weaver now lives, and which is supposed to be the oldest frame house in Douglas county— a view of
the same will be found in this history. Here, for the past thirty-two years, Mr. Weaver has resided, and through honesty and

industry has accumulated a sufficient amount of this world's goods as to allow him to enjoy the comforts of a happy home

made doubly so by the presence of his wife and family of three children— whose names are: George Walter, Lulie .\I. and
Frank.

DANIEL WELKER, was born in Perry county, Missouri, December 3, 182S. At the age of sixteen, his father
being badly hurt by a vicious horse, Daniel was sent to live with an uncle until April I, 1852, when he, in company with Rob-
ert Henkle and family, and an uncle, Wm. Fulbright, started with ox teams to cross the plains to Oregon. After and une-
ventful trip of six months they arrived in Marion county, Mr. Welker locating some ten miles southeast of .Salem, where he
resided until June, 1855. He then came to Douglas county, and fii-st located on land now owned by Mr. Tipton, on the north
side of the North Umpqua river, remaining there until 1864, when he purchased his present place, consisting of 900 acres on
the south bank of the North Umpqua river, some fifteen miles from Roseburg. Mr. Welker has a well improved farm, and is
highly respected by his neighbors and the county people in general, and is considered one of Douglas county's solid men. A
view of his home will be found in ths work. Mr. \V. was united in marriage in June, 1855, to Miss Mary J. Tipton, a
native of Tennessee. They have five children living, viz: Sarah E., now Mfs. Edward Smith; Martha A., Ida May, £^da J.
and William W.

L. L. WILLIAMS. — In all animate life there are grades of intelligence so plainly marked that the difference is evi-
dent at a glance. Between men this gradation is so distinguishable and universal that attention has only to be called to the fact,
to secure its unquestioned recognition. Among the Australian Bushmen or in the court circle of kings, the geniu^ of a few
men lead, while the many follow. These are but truisms, facts old as the human family; still, it is not out of place to call
attention to them and the addtional truth that it is not infrequent for many, who follow some distance in the rear to forget, when
the smoke of battle has passed, that they were not in the van. Nature designs some men for active service, and for such to
fall short of becoming an important element in the progressive eperations of whatever sphere circumstances places them, would
be something theycould not do. It would be impossible for comprehensive minds to dwell upDn that which failed to possess
the charm of intricacy or magnitude something beyond the ordinary; and those jiossessing such faculties move off in the
advance, plan and execute where others hesitate and fail to act. Every community has widiin it characters of this kind more
or less marked, who arc termed the leading men or minds. In Southern Oregon there was one of this class who stood so far
in the van of progress, that his name has but lo be mentioned to elicit a universal approval of the assertion from all except his
personal enemies, or the envious, whose opiniorisare of little value. We refer to the gentleman whose name heads this me-
moir, and the reader has but to learn what his operatiims iii this county have been, to cheerfully accord him the meed of
approval. He did not derive as much personal benefit from the result of his labors as the people o( the county have, and his
business efl!brts were all of a nature, calculated to inure to the public advantage more than his private advancement. .Mr.
Williams was born«in Vermont in 1831, and with his parents moved to Michigan in 1833, »"'' 'i that stale resided some sixty
miles from Detroit until fifteen years of age. That reguon was then newly settled, and young Williams never attendeil schi>i>l.
At the age above mentioned he joined a party of trappers and hunters, and from that time he became a self-reliant frontiersman,
which character he well maintained until the time of his death. He reached California in .1850, and the following year came
to Port Orford with Captain Tichenor. In 1851 he was seriously wounded in an engagement with the Indians, near the mouth
of the Coquille river, from the effect of which it is doubtful if he ever fully reco\;pred. A few years later he served as treasurer
of Umpqua county for two terms, and ofter«»rds was twice elected county clerk of the same county. .After the consolidai inn
of Umpqua and Douglas he was three times elected and twice appointed to the office of cnuntv rl.-rk, lu.l was one of the ni..>.i

5U APPENDIX.

faithful and capable officers that county has ever had. In 1863 he became captain of a company of Oregon vohmteeis, and
served about three years against the Indians. During the last ten years he traveled much, \nsiting the Black Hills, the Yel-
lowstone park, and the various portions of the British possessions. AVhile on a visit to California he was taken sick in San
Fr.incisco, and after a short illness died March 25, 1881. His remains were taken charge of by the Odd Fellows, of which
society he was an exemplary member — and conveyed to Roseburg, where they were deposited in the Odd Fellows' cemetery,
and by that order a beautiful monument was erected to his memory, a view of which appears among the illustrations of this
work. He was a man of superior abilit;-, a self-taught scohlar, rigidly temperate and virtuous in his habits, and scrupulously
honest in his dealings with his fellow men.

REV. W. A. WILLIS. — There are probably few men in the state of Oregon who have worked with more zeal in the
vineyard of the Lord and at the same time looked after agricultural interests with more energy than the subject of this sketch.
Mr. Willis was one of the very first settlers in Deer creek valley, having selected and located his present valuable farm in 1852,
and in that year built his present residence — a view of which appears in this history. Mr. Willis is a Kentuckian by birth,
born in Todd county, November 15, 1822, and in his early childhood was taught the strict religious principles of the M. E.
church, the fruits of that teaching culminating in his becoming a minister of that denomination. In 1S52 he crossed the plains
to this coast, since which time he has resided on his present place, consisting of 4CX3 acres, seven miles east of Roseburg. Mr.
Willis is married, and has a family of three children.

ANTHONY H. WOODRUFF, now resides on a farm one mile north of Cleveland, Douglas county, on the border
of which runs the Unipqua river. This place is counted among the most valuable in the county; contains some 900 acres; is
well fenced and cultivated; has a fine new residence and a large orchard. For general appearance and adjacent scenery the
reader is referred to a view of it accompanying this work. Mr. W'oodruff was born in Ontario county, New York, October 12,
1815, and is now (1S84), in his sixty-ninth year, but is still hale and vigorous. He is married and has raised a large family.

JOHN M. WRIGHT. — A prosperous and well to do farmer of the French Settlement, is a native of Kanawha county.
West Virginia, born June 12, 1826, Residing in his birth-place until 1843 — '" 'he meantime learning the trade of cooper — he
with his parents moved to Linn county, Missouri and there embarked in farming until the spring of 1S50, when, with his
brother, Louis F., he started for California. On his arrival he at once proceeded to the mines on the American river where he
mined with good success until March, 1851, and then returned to his home in Missouri via. the Isthmus of Panama with the
intention of bringing his family to California. April 20, 1852, found Mr. Wright again ready to brave the dangers of a trip
across the plains accompanied by his wife and three children, and his brother-in-law, John P. Bowyer. On arriving in the
Black Hills they were met by Mr. H. B. Flournoy then on his way East, and by him induced, on account of the bad roads on
the California route, to change their course to Oregon. After a weary trip of some six months they arrived at The Dalles,
September 6, 1852. Mr. Wright first located near Corvallis, where he remained until February, 1853, and then located in
Douglas county, first settling on land now owned by J. Flournoy, where he resided until 1857, when he purchased of E. il.
Moore his present valuable farm consisting of 600 acres, five miles north of Looking-glass. A view of his farm residence, which
will compare favorably with any in Douglas county, will be found in this work. Mr. Wright is a highly respected and influential
citizen, and now after many years of toil and hardships is prepared to reap the comforts of a well spent and prosperous life.
Mr. W. was united in marriage in Missouri, June 17, 1846, to Miss Emily Simmons, a daughter of Thomas Simmons, of How-
ard county; they have a grown family of three sons and four daughters, as follows: W'illiam W., Roena L., now Mrs. Joseph
Jones; Missouri N., now Mrs. L. T. Thompson; Alice G. V., now Mrs. Van Buren; Emily M., now Mrs. David West; Calvin
W. and Lee S. Alson, and one adopted daughter, Lizzie.

JOHN B. WRISLEY.— A man whose almost entire life has been spent on the frontier, was born in Middlebury,
Vermont, August 16, 1819. During Mr. Wrisley's early life his father was proprietor of a large manufacturing establishment
at Hoosac Falls, but being called upon suddenly for the payment of a large security debt he was financially broken up, and
removed with his family to the Genesee valley in the state of New York. When John was only thirteen years of age his father
moved to Silver, Washlinau county, Michigan, then a wild territory, settling with his family at a point from which their nearest
neighbor was eighteen miles distant. Here John B. Wrisley learned blacksmithing and the rudiments of farming, and in 1S40,
the family scattered, he went to the territory of Wisconsin and commenced work in the lead mines at Mineral Point. On
June 15, 1845, he married Eliza Jane Jacobs, by whom he has raised ten children, the eldest daughter, Mrs. Alice Goddard,
being the first white child born in the Rogue river valley. In 1849, Mr. Wrisley crossed the plains alone to California, working
at Auburn, Placer county, at Yankee Jim's on the North Fork of the American river, and on the Trinity, being one of the first
miners on the latter stream. Returning to Auburn from Trinity, he found an extremely rich claim, but being in bad health and
unable to work, he returned to his family in Wisconsin in 1S50. He did not remain long, however, and yearning for the free
wild life of the early days on this coast, he started across the plains with his family and a large band of cattle, arriving in Yreka
with but two yoke of cattle and one cow out of the whole band. Mr. Wrisley remained but a short time in Yreka. Coming
to the Rogue river valley in 1852, he located a donation claim on the north side of Rogue river where he resided for thirteen
years. In 1865, Mr. Wrisley bought a farm near Central Point, which now comprises four hundred and eighty acres of rich
land, and as near the frontier as he wishes to be. John is truly a pioneer if there is one, and knows the danger of pioneer life.
He has voted for the state constitution of Wisconsin, California and Oregon. He has passed safely all the Indian wars of this
section as a high private, never accepting military or civil office. John B. Wrisley still continues to reside on his farm near
Central Point— a view of which can be found in this work — and is noted for being an honest, upright gentleman, a care-
ful industrious farmer, honored by friends and beloved by his family.

i

APPENDIX. 545

MARSHFIELD SAW MILLS AND SHIP YARD, a view of which appears in this work. This is one of
the ra ost extensive industries in Southern Oregon and will compare favorably with any other enterprise of the kind in the state.
Situated in the southern part of the town of Marshfield, the main mill building being two hundred by two hundred feet, and
supplied with all the latest improved machinery, it having a capacity of thirteen millions feet of lumber per year. This mill was
first built by John Pershbaker in the year 1867 and run by him until 1871, then having a capacity of twenty-five thousand feet
per day. It then passed into other hands until 1873, when the present firm of E. B. Dean & Co., purchased the property, this
firm is composed of the following gentlemen: E. B. Dean, David Wilcox and Charles H. Merchant, the latter being the resident
partner and manager and to whose business ability its present success is due. In connection with the mill they have a ship
yard where two or more vessels are built per year, and many of the well known schooners plying in the coasting trade were built
at this yard. At the present time they emyloy forty-five men in the mills and about one hundred in their logging camps, they
owning a large tract of timber land in Coos county. The lumber sawed at these mills is fir, spruce and white cedar, the' most
of which is shipped to California and foreign ports. In connection with their mill and ship yard they run a large general mer-
chandise store situated a short distance from the mill, and carry a stock of goods valued at thirty thousand dollars.

SEASIDE CITY. — This town, the last in Coos county to the southwest, is situated on a beautiful level plain at the
mouth cf the Coquille river, and having an elevation of 200 feet above the sea level. It was laid out in March, 1S84, by Mr.
J. P. Tapper, and at the present time consists of one hotel, the "Ocean House," kept by J. P. Tupp3r, a view of which will
he found in this work, and one store. Seaside City promises to be a place of considerable importance in the near future, as
at the present time it is considered one of the most pleasant summer resorts in Southern Oregon, having all the natural advan-
tages of scenery, a beautiful beach, and a delightful climate, and in the hands of its present owner, Mr. Tupper, Seaside City
is Ijound to become a resting place for the weaiy.

RANDOLPH BREWERY.— This enterprise is located at Randolph, Coos county, and first began in January, 18S3,
liy its present proprietor, Mr. Joseph Walser, it having a capacity at that time of 300 barrels per month, to which he has since
added to, until now the brewery has a capacity of over 400 barrels per month. At the present time there is not over one-half
the capacity of the brewery made. The beer manufactured by Mr. Walser is pronounced to be of the finest quality.

CAPE BLANCO LIGHT HOUSE.— This is one of the most important lights on the Pacific coast, and was
established in 1870, and lies in latitude 42' 50' 07", longitude 124' 32' 29". The light tower itself, a massive structure, built
entirely of brick and iron, and readies a height of about eighty feet, stands on the extreme outer edge of the Cape after which
it is named. Cape Blanco is the most westerly point of land in the United States, and has a light of the first order, using
what is termed the white lights. The cost of the structure, together with the large brick residence for the keepers adjoining,
a building 90x100 feet and two-stories high, was close to $100,000. Lieutenant-Colonel R. A. Williamson superintended
the Iniilding of the structures, and the first keeper appointed was H. Burnap, he having charge until 1874 ; when in that year
C. W. Terry was appointed, and he in turn was relieved by C. H. Pierce, who was the custodian of the lights until Septem-
ber, 1S83, when its present efficient keeper, Mr. James S. Langlois, who had served as under keeper for some six years, was
appointed.

209G

I