,ETT
zy.
THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
PRESENTED BY
PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID
THE AUTHOR
JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
FROM ELEPHANT TO SNIPE
BY
MARCUS W. MILLETT
II AN OLD CEYLON SHIKARI
WITH MANY SKETCHES AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE AUTHOR
METHUEN & GO. LTD. 36 ESSEX STREET W.G LONDON
First Published in 1914
DEDICATED
to Sir Peter C. Walker, Bart., an old friend, a keen sportsman, and one of the best of com- panions, in memory of an exciting Elephant shoot and good times spent together in Ceylon years gone by.
M372734
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I WHAT CEYLON OFFERS THE SPORTSMAN
The pleasures of jungle life — Sport to be obtained — Climate — Best time to visit the Island — Close season for game — The monsoons — Pas- sage out — Colombo hotels — Diverting scenes — House and tree lizards — Hibernating frogs — Trincomalie as a sporting district — Engagement of native servants — Rates of pay — Hire of ponies and securing sup- plies— Making a start for hunting grounds — The Matale bullock cart — The journey overland to Trincomalie — Rest houses and places of interest en route — Anecdotes of animals met with on the road — A snake incident — Trincomalie, account of — Rest house and rest house keeper — The ubiquitous crow — Monkey and crow story — Game licences — Different ways of reaching Trincomalie from Colombo — Notes on health — Newera-Eliya as a sanatorium for sportsmen
pp. 1-23
CHAPTER II
SPORTING LOCALITIES
Andan Kulam — Tamblegam — Vandrassen Kulam — Kanthalai — Nil- lavelli — Salt cultivation — Pigeon Island — Kuchchevelli — Periya Kulam — Terayai — Oysters — Assemblies of monkeys — Their frolicsome nature — Pulmoddai — Velverri — Pankulam — " Basket " fishermen — The " Lulu" tank fish — Their instinctive nature to travel overland in search of water — Allai Tank — Elephant shooting experience — Putur — Velli — Coombanatchie — Ichehilampattai — The Gunner's Quoin — Tirikuna- mottuwa — Kanda Kadu — Vaddakachchi — Mined Tank — A jungle eye . . pp. 24 — 51
vii
viii JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
CHAPTER III
ON A MISCELLANEOUS SHOOTING TRIP
Shooting in company not recommended — Preparatory arrangements — Most useful guns — On the road — Arrival at Kanthalai — An enchant- ing scene — Hints on stalking — A shoot round the tank : The first kill — Wild boar incident : A surprise — Kanthalai paddy fields — The Brahmany kite — Snippets — The day's bag : A snipe shoot — Horsekeeper and cobra story ........ pp. 52-66
CHAPTER IV AFTER THE INDIAN BUFFALO
The Indian buffalo in a semi-tame state — Their attraction for the white paddy bird — The wild animal — Its nature and habits — A buffalo shoot : An exciting experience — Cingalee followers — -The death
PP- 67-73
CHAPTER V SPORT WITH THE LEOPARD, DEER, JACKAL AND WILD BOAR
The Ceylon leopard, nature and habits — Partiality for dogs — A present to the Zoo — An interesting incident — A peculiarity of the leopard — Their prodigious powers — Sambur deer — Spotted deer or chital — Hog deer — Barking deer — Mouse deer — Ceylon wild boar — The jackal — The jungle cock, and how it may be drawn from the jungle — The "dugong" ....... pp. 74-85
CHAPTER VI
THE CEYLON ELEPHANT IN THE JUNGLE
The Ceylon elephant — Character and habits — Frequently seen in herds — Differing from African species — Ceylon tuskers — Age of the Indian elephant — Generally one at a birth — Period of gestation — Gift of hearing and sense of smell — Their timidity — Mode of carry- ing their young when alarmed — Peculiar formation of knee joint —
CONTENTS ix
Descending declivities — Crossing a river in flight — Seemingly impass- able places elephants get through in their wanderings — Interesting system of tracks — Their dislike to falling rain-drops from leaves when in jungle — Their dislike to great heat and glare — Fondness for the bath — Worried by mosquitoes — A curious incident in connection with mosquitoes — Sensitive nature of the trunk — Killed by the blow of a native knife — How hunted by a certain caste of natives in India — Elephant trackers and tracking .... pp. 86-97
CHAPTER VII PLEASURES OF ELEPHANT SHOOTING
Its fascination — Rogue elephants, why so termed — Quaint formations of forest trees — The skull of the elephant, showing position of brain — The most telling shots — Useful hints — Preparations for the shoot — Engagement of native bearers — Hiring canoe — The crossing over to Kottiar — Road journey to Topore — Topore bungalow — Method of loading elephant rifle — On the track from Topore — The jungle road between Putur and Velli — Arrival at Velli — Camping — Discovering tracks — Alien elephant seen by moonlight crossing Velli Plain — An exciting elephant shoot ..... pp. 98-127
CHAPTER VIII THE RETURN TO CAMP
A gruesome sight — Sport on the way — Reasons for non-effective shots — Approaching an elephant in dense jungle — Jungle road to Coombanatchie . . . . . . pp. 128-134
CHAPTER IX SETTING UP AND CURING OF TROPHIES
Uses to which they may be converted — Preservation and curing
pp. 135-139
x JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
CHAPTER X SOME ELEPHANT SHOOTING EXPERIENCES
A miraculous escape — A close shave but lucky bag — An exciting incident, in which a distinguished naval officer takes a prominent part pp. 140-155
CHAPTER XI
ABOUT CROCODILE CATCHING
The Ceylon crocodile — Its nature and habits — Assailed by one in the jungle — Human beings seized and carried off — Crocodile catching, how to prepare necessary tackle — An effective hook — Setting the lines and baits — Native method — Suitable tanks, Trincomalie district — Pariah dogs used for bait — Inspection of laid lines — Caught — An interesting pastime — An unpleasant experience — Crocodiles' fondness for dogs — Scene at a picnic party — An amusing incident when snipe shooting — Their uncanny way of mysteriously appearing without warning — Hibernating crocodiles . . . . pp. 156-176
CHAPTER XII WATERHOLE SHOOTING FOR BEAR AND LEOPARD
Preliminary arrangements — Waterholes in the neighbourhood of Ichehilampattai — Chungs or tree platforms — The nature and habits of the Ceylon bear — A meeting with Veddahs — A terrible bear wound
pp. 179-187
CHAPTER XIII A MOONLIGHT WATERHOLE SHOOT AT KALUPETTI
Preparing for an "All-Night" sitting — Chunam (lime) for night sights — The most useful weapons — Cart journey to Virgel river — The crossing and tramp through jungle to Kalupetti — Description of water- hole and scene generally — The picture as seen later on, and animals that appear — The shoot, exciting sport — Sir Emerson Tennant on the Ceylon bear ....... pp. 188-203
CONTENTS xi
CHAPTER XIV
WHY SPORT is OFTEN SPOILT
A return to camp — A changed scene — Sport on the way — Arrival at the bungalow — The bag — How sport may be spoilt — A python incident —To lessen chances of disappointment — Resemblance of bear's foot impressions to those of human beings — Some of the principal Ceylon fauna . . . . . . . . ... pp. 204-209
CHAPTER XV A SPORTSMAN'S YARNS
Artifice resorted to by crocodiles in catching monkeys — Bagging two elephants without firing a shot — Monkey outwitting a snake — Tug-of-war between elephant and crocodiles — The " Saucer Fish "- How Allah Pitchei planted his potato crop at the expense of the Mikado — The" Hoop Snake " — Parrots and monkeys — The "Swish Shot " . . . . . . . . pp. 210-244
APPENDIX
How TO FIT OUT AN EXPEDITION
Clothing — Tents — Camp furniture — Letter " A " bed — A collap- sible table — A collapsible long arm-chair — Canteens — Water kegs — Lamps and lanterns — Hold-alls — Haversacks — Hunting knives and axe — Medicine chest — Provisions — A coolie load — Battery — Reloading apparati — Preservative soaps and solutions . . pp. 245-264
INDEX pp. 265-26$
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
THE AUTHOR ....... Frontispiece
CAMP LIFE ......... 3
MAP OF CEYLON ........ 7
TRINCOMALIE INNER HARBOUR ...... 9
A MATALE BULLOCK CART . . . . . . . n
ROYAL NAVAL YARD FROM SOBER ISLAND . . . . 15
TRINCOMALIE REST HOUSE ....... 16
REST HOUSE-KEEPER . ... . . . . 17
SHOOTING ABRAHAM . . . . . . . . 17
THE BAZAAR, TRINCOMALIE ...... 20
NEWERA-ELIYA . . . . . . . . .21
VANDRASSEN KULAM ........ 25
A LAGOON NEAR NILLAVELLI . . . . . . 27
KUCHCHEVELLI REST HOUSE ...... 29
TERAYAI REST HOUSE ....... 33
BASKET FISHERMEN CATCHING "LuLu" .... 36
RETURNING FROM A DEER SHOOT, TERAYAI .... 37
A TYPICAL CAMP SCENE, PULMODDAI ..... 41
COAST ROAD, TERAYAI . . . . . . .45
CAMP NEAR SNIPE MARSHES, TAMBLEGAM .... 47
KANDY ROAD NEAR TAMBLEGAM ...... 49
CONFRONTED BY A WILD BOAR ...... 57
A MOOR " SNIPE BOY " WITH EARLY MORNING BAG . . 61
BOAR TUSK TROPHY ........ 64
WILD BUFFALO ......... 69
BUFFALO FOOT TROPHY ....... 73
xiii
xiv JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
PAGE
THE INDIAN ELEPHANT . . . . . . .,87
ELEPHANT DESCENDING A DECLIVITY . . . ' . . 89
GROUP OF ELEPHANT TRACKERS . . . . . -93
AN EXCITING MOMENT . . ... . . 98
A DEAD " ROGUE "........ 99
THE ELEPHANT SKULL, PROFILE . . . . .102
THE ELEPHANT SKULL, FRONT VIEW . . . . .103
NATIVE CANOES PASSING " ROUND ISLAND " FOR KOTTIAR . 105
KOTTIAR BULLOCK CARTS . . . . . . .108
KOTTIAR REST HOUSE, THE LANDING . . . . .109
NEAR THE SPILL, ALLAI TANK . . . . . .112
THE REST HOUSE, TOPORE . . . . . .113
A CORNER OF ALLAI TANK . . . . . .115
CAMP, VELLI PLAIN . . . . . . . . .116
ARRIVAL OF BULLOCK CARTS AT PUTUR . . . .117
ALLAH PITCHEI IN HUNTING RIG . . . . . . 120
VELLI PLAIN ......... 121
THE ELEPHANT is SEEN IN THE DISTANCE . . . .125
AN ELEPHANT CHARGE . . . . . . .129
A FEW ELEPHANT AND OTHER TROPHIES . . . .135
ELEPHANT FOOT TROPHY . . . . . . .137
OFFICERS' QUARTERS, FORT FREDERICK, TRINCOMALIE . . 141
A MIRACULOUS ESCAPE . . . . . . .145
CROCODILES AT HOME . . . . . . .156
CROCODILE CATCHING, BAIT SUSPENDED OVER WATER . .. 157
CROCODILE HOOK ATTACHED TO TWINE SNOOD . . . 160
AN EFFECTIVE HOOK, DRAWINGS AND SPECIFICATIONS OF . 161 A NATIVE-SHAPED PIECE OF WOOD FOR CROCODILE CATCHING 164
PERIYA KULAM . . . . . . . . . 165
THE BUNGALOW, PERIYA KULAM . . . . .168
ANDAN KULAM AND WATER BUFFALOES . . . . 1-73
AN ISOLATED WATERHOLE . . . . . . .'177
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xv
PAGE
THE REST HOUSE, ICHEHILAMPATTAI . . . . .181
A VEDDAH ......... 185
VALLIPULLEI COOLIE ........ 189
WATERHOLE SHOOTING BY MOONLIGHT .... 191
CROCODILES DISSEMBLING . . . . . . .211
ELEPHANT PURSUING ALLAH PITCHEI . . . . .221
THE " SAUCER FISH " ....... 229
THE " HOOP SNAKE " i . . . . . . 238
APPENDIX
HOW TO FIT OUT AN EXPEDITION
LIVING TENT . . . . . . . . . 246
DIAGRAMS OF DITTO ....... 247 -248
ERECTION OF TENT. Two Views .... 248-249
COOLIE SHELTER ........ 250
LETTER " A " BED ........ 250
CAMP TABLE ......... 251
PARTS OF, IN CONSTRUCTION ...... 251
PACKED FOR TRAVELLING ....... 252
A TRAVELLING LONG ARM CHAIR . . . . 252
DRAWINGS AND SPECIFICATIONS FOR MAKING DITTO . . 253
PUNKAH CANDLE LAMP ....... 256
A USEFUL HOLD-ALL ........ 256
JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
CHAPTER I WHAT CEYLON OFFERS THE SPORTSMAN
TO those who are fond of a Bohemian existence let me recommend for real pleasure the life led by sportsmen on shooting expeditions in Ceylon. The free-and-easy, do-as-you-like, go-where-you-please kind of feeling one experiences on these occasions, camping and roaming about with the gun at will, takes one through a wild-game country, with delightful changes of scenery. This, together with the varied animal, bird and other tropical life that meets the eye, the health- ful, invigorating exercise, combined with the rough-and- ready work and balmy air, form to my mind a most fascinating life.
Amongst other attractions for the sportsman the Island affords a charming and unique variety of sport, the game to be secured consisting of elephant, buffalo, bear, leopard, sambur, several other kinds of deer, jackal, crocodiles, wild pig, peafowl, jungle-fowl, many kinds of duck, snipe, plover, and a large variety of pigeons.
The fauna generally is very interesting, and the exertion and skill which have to be employed in its tracking through forest and other cover sheltering it, add consider- able zest to the pleasures of the chase.
JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
Although tropical and by some considered warm, the climate of Ceylon is healthy, and contrasts favourably with that of India. The Island's geographical position lies between longitude 79° 41' 50" and 81° 54' 50" east, and latitude 5° 55' and 9° 51' north. The temperature varies in parts, but at Trincomalie, where I started on most of my adventures, it ranges in the shade from about 75° in December to 98° in the hottest months of May, June and July. This heat happily is rendered tolerable by the regular and steady sea breezes.
In praise of the salubrious nature of the climate I may mention that throughout my long residence in this part of the Island I enjoyed the best of health. This, perhaps, was due in a great measure to the regular and active life I led with my gun in pursuit of game, and to the exceptional opportunities I obtained of tracking up the different kinds of animals indigenous to the country, and studying their nature in a wild state.
To prepare an expedition there are, of course, many little things that have to be considered if the affair is to be a success. I will therefore endeavour to aid my readers in this respect by offering a few remarks and suggestions which may be of service.
Naturally, the first question that sportsmen intent on a shooting trip to Ceylon will ask is, " What's the best time of year to go out ? " The answer will, of course, depend upon the nature of the shoot desired. Sport there differs somewhat according to the monsoon blowing, for monsoons blow half the year from the S.W. and the other half from the N.E.
During the S.W. monsoon the months of June, July and August are usually very dry, and " waterhole shooting " can be indulged in. This is a most interesting and fascinating sport, and shooting trips can also be made after elephant and other big game, but not for deer and small game. The N.E. monsoon blows from
.
WHAT CEYLON OFFERS THE SPORTSMAN 5
October to March, the rainy months. Then snipe and duck are in, and as these are open months there is no restriction as to what game may be shot from an elephant to a snipe.
Should the dry season be preferred, the best time to leave England would be about the first week in May, arriving in the Island in time to include " waterhole shooting." On the other hand, if it is considered desir- able to go out later in the year during the cooler or rainy season, arrangements should be made to leave about the second week in September, so as to arrive about the middle of October, when duck and snipe are in, giving excellent sport. It should be noted, however, that the close season for game, i.e. sambur, chital or spotted deer, peafowl, etc., in the eastern province, is from March 3ist to October ist.
The passage out to Ceylon takes about four weeks, and always provides a most enjoyable trip. A delightful sensation will be experienced on first sighting this beautiful Island, for its lofty mountain ranges and shores, luxuriantly clothed with rich green foliage down to the water's edge, furnish a vivid contrast to the dry and sandy desert between Port Said and Suez, to the burnt up appearance of the lands bordering on the Red Sea and the dreary, barren-looking, volcanic Rock of Aden.
On arrival at Colombo, the question of the best hotel accommodation will arise, and personally I can recom- mend the following, all of which are excellent in their service and moderate in their charges : the Grand, Bristol, or Galle Face. Suppose we stay at one of these for a day or so to settle down and make such arrangements as are necessary for travelling overland to Trincomalie (in the eastern province), the best sporting district in the Island, to which I propose to take my readers and to establish headquarters for a time.
The large open verandahs of these hotels present to
6 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
the visitor interesting scenes of an animated and diverting nature. Passengers of all nationalities arriving and departing by steamer assemble here with all the bustle and excitement attendant thereon. Native merchants, Indian, Cingalese and others, in their Oriental costumes, and insinuating suasive manners, do brisk business in disposing of their showy wares, while snake-charmers and conjurers may be seen in other directions entertain- ing groups of interested spectators. As night approaches one's attention will possibly be attracted to the little house-lizards which may be seen running about the walls, making a chirruping noise like that of small birds. " Kevuli " they are termed by the natives ; they are pretty little creatures of a greyish colour, with black bead-like eyes, perfectly harmless, living on mosquitoes and other insect pests. Their means of catching them with the tongue, which can be shot out a considerable distance, are most interesting to watch.
During the day, while walking along country roads, one may also be startled by the tree lizard, nine inches to a foot long, scuttling across one's path. They are also harmless, but it is advisable to let them alone, as they are armed with a formidable row of sharp processes along the back and tail, which cause nasty wounds if handled.
Another interesting and striking feature which brings home to the visitor the fact of being in the tropics are the myriads of toads and frogs which hibernate beneath the earth during the dry weather. These only awaken and come to the surface on the appearance of heavy rain, filling the air with the din of their loud croak- ings, from the faintest sounds of the smaller fry to the deep guttural croaks of the largest bull frog.
Trincomalie is distant about 160 miles by rail and road from Colombo, and game of every kind can be obtained in the neighbourhood. Indeed, the whole of
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WHAT CEYLON OFFERS THE SPORTSMAN 9
this province, extending from the Kokalai Lagoon in the north to within thirty or forty miles of Hambentotta in the south, affords some of the finest shooting in the Island.
The question of servants has now to be thought of ; they can easily be obtained in Colombo, but little trouble should be experienced in engaging through the hotel management the personal staff required for an expedi- tion. Presuming the party to number two, the follow-
INNER HARBOUR, TRINCOMALIE
WITH SOBER ISLAND IN THE DISTANCE
ing are necessary : An appu (butler) each, either Tamil or Cingalese ; a native cook ; a good coolie ; and two kuthrie-karrens (horsekeepers), at rates of pay varying from twenty to thirty rupees per mensem for appu, twenty to twenty-five rupees per mensem for cook, ten to fifteen rupees per mensem for horsekeepers, and ten to twelve rupees per mensem for coolie, whose duty is to assist generally. The present value of the rupee is is. 4d.
A saddle pony each should also be hired or purchased
10 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
These can be obtained for a small sum, and will be found to be of great service, adding materially to one's com- fort and enjoyment, and they are easily disposed of when finished with.
Trackers and coolies can be engaged nearer the base of the shoot, but supplies sufficient for three or four weeks' consumption should be secured now and packed into convenient cases for easy handling.
These are described in detail in the appendix entitled " How to fit out an Expedition."
Let us now make our way across country to the hunt- ing grounds.
The first stage will be by rail from Colombo to Matale, a native town sixteen miles beyond Kandy, with a good rest house, to which place the servants and horsekeepers are sent on in advance in charge of ponies and camp necessaries. We travel and arrive somewhat later, thus giving them time prior to our appearance to hire bullock carts and pack stores ready for the road journey (ninety-seven miles), which takes about two and a half days to accomplish.
After dinner we fix ourselves comfortably in the sleeping compartments of the carts. The mardu-karrens (drivers), with a few incentive words of encouragement, twist the tails of the bulls, and we start off at a trot, which, needless to say, soon slackens down to a walking pace.
The Matale bullock cart is a large, heavy-looking, narrow conveyance, but picturesque in appearance, and quite a work of art. It is very long and commodious compared with other carts in different parts of the Island, being low on the wheels, and cleverly covered over with a superstructure of bent jungle sticks or split bamboos, with platted leaves of the cocoanut tree (termed cadjans) and matting combined, ingeniously fixed in place by a network of native-made coir rope, rendering it perfectly
ft.
WHAT CEYLON OFFERS THE SPORTSMAN 13
waterproof. The inside is divided by a platform, the upper part of which is reserved as accommodation for sleeping, and the lower space for carrying stores. The sketch gives an idea of one ol these carts, with a pair of slow but willing and patient coast bulls and a charac- teristic type of Kandyian driver.
Rest houses, under the management of the Govern- ment, are placed along the road en route, about ten or twelve miles apart, for the convenience of travellers, where plain refreshments and sleeping accommodation are obtainable. These rest houses are : — Matale, Kos- landi, Narlandi, Dambulla, Haborrenni, Alutoya, Kan- thalai, Tamblegam, Trincomalie.
Should one desire, however, to break the journey by stopping over night at any of these, it is advisable to send word beforehand by postcard to the native rest house-keeper, in order that he may be enabled to make suitable arrangements.
There are several places to be seen on the trip of great historical interest and antiquity, which will well repay a visit. For instance, there are :—
The famous Buddhist Rock Temple of Dambulla, twenty-eight miles from Matale, with caves and mar- vellous stone figures of Buddha and Hindu deities. It lies close to the Dambulla rest house.
The ancient fortified Rock of Sighiri, which can be seen from the road between Dambulla and Haborrenni, and the magnificent tank, or lake of Kanthalai, twenty- five miles from Trincomalie.
Travelling by bullock cart across country is in itself delightful, but for variety and to fill up time some amusement may be got out of the gun by walking on ahead of the carts. Different kinds of game are fre- quently met on the road, as well as jungle fowl and many varieties of pigeons.
Once I was travelling in this way with a friend, walking
14 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
ahead of the carts between Dambulla and Haborrenni, when we stopped for a rest by the roadside. Whilst •enjoying a pipe, we were amused by some passing strolling native conjurers who, in their primitive way, gave us a performance. They imitated to the life the chattering and other sounds peculiar to different kinds of monkeys, and uncovered a round flat basket which contained their " stock in trade of snakes " ; several cobras at once rose therefrom with hoods distended, their singularly bright spectacle markings being very conspicuous, looking anything but pleased at being disturbed. The performer then produced and played on a unique musical instru- ment made from a gourd, resembling the drone of bag- pipes. This had a magical effect, causing the snakes to rise and fall in graceful motions at his will.
While thus entertained we were surprised to see a herd of spotted deer spring from the jungle on to the road, a little way off, and trot up to within a few yards of us, no doubt attracted by this strange music, which evidently had its charm, and enabled me to secure a fine head.
While on the subject of snakes, I may state that I have had various curious experiences with them, and the following may be worth relating. Standing one day in conversation with my tracker on a sandy plain near a mangrove swamp, when on a deer shoot, my attention was suddenly attracted to a large snake on the sand in the distance, with elevated head, making straight for us for all it was worth. I raised my gun to fire, but my native shikari was evidently better acquainted with the ways of these reptiles than myself, for with a knowing wink and smile he advised me to pause, pointing at the same time to a hole in the ground near our feet, which from his gestures I understood to be the snake's habitation. I accordingly moved away and watched its approach, and was glad when I saw it take a dive and disappear
WHAT CEYLON OFFERS THE SPORTSMAN 15
down the hole. Although it turned .out to be a harmless rat-snake, about eight or nine feet long, yet the sensa- tion on seeing it approach one so rapidly in this strange manner was, to say the least of it, startling and un-
THE R.N. YARD, TRINCOMALIE
FROM SOBER ISLAND
pleasant. Snakes may be said to be numerous in Ceylon, but Europeans are seldom troubled by them.
Another time, when journeying across country by bullock cart, I casually wandered off the road down a jungle track. Suddenly I was confronted by a large r, which luckily fell to my gun first shot. Elephants are sometimes seen, and crocodiles are now and again come across, lying on the jungle roads during heavy rains. Jackals are very numerous, and their audacity when in search of food is surprising.
One night I slept by the roadside under cover of the stars, with a view of continuing next morning the track after an elephant a friend and myself had been pursuing that afternoon, but had given up owing to darkness
16
JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
setting in. I was suddenly startled from my slumbers by alarming shouts from the coolie watcher. Thinking the elephant was upon us, I jumped up in haste and seized my rifle, but, to my chagrin, found the excitement was only due* to two jackals, who had stealthily sneaked up, and were caught in the act of devouring the contents of our lunch basket, which was lying between us.
Trincomalie itself is a pretty little seaport lying on the N.E. coast, with a population of about three or four thousand. It has a picturesque land-locked harbour, studded with islets and promontories, covered with luxuriant foliage which droops down to the rippling waters, the brilliant crimson " Flamboyer " being very conspicuous at certain times of the year.
Before its naval and military establishments were abolished a few years ago (I had the honour of being in charge of the naval establishment) it was an important
REST HOUSE, TRINCOMALIE
station. It was the headquarters of the East India Eleet, and a large number of natives were employed by both services. It was then a thriving, busy little town, but probably by now it has undergone considerable
WHAT CEYLON OFFERS THE SPORTSMAN 19
change, and no doubt the native population has dwindled down, owing to their means of support having gone ; nevertheless it is still an extensive cultivating district, which gives employment to many, and the adjacent country, with its vast extent of forests, plains, paddy fields, tanks, open glades and swamps, offer ideal cover for every kind of game.
It makes an excellent base for shooting expeditions in its immediate neighbourhood, and no difficulty will be ex- perienced here in obtaining coolies and replenishing stores.
A rest house is situated in a good position on the Maidan, facing the sea, from which can be obtained a view of the interesting and fine old fortification of Fort Frederick, lately vacated by our troops, but built by the Dutch over 200 years ago.
The rest house keeper, one Catheramatamby by name a most excellent, obliging and attentive host, is a grand old specimen of a Tamil gentleman. He has been in charge for many years and is a very interesting character.
Perhaps I might here say a few words about the ubiquitous crow of the Island. Wherever one goes, there's the crow. It turns up everywhere most unex- pectedly, and is about the most devilish, cunning, daring, thievish, and cheeky bird known. It will invade the bungalow and take things from the table under one's very nose. I once saw six carry off a roasted hare pre- pared for tiffin, which they afterwards dropped in the compound. Nothing is safe from their depredations, even to forks and spoons.
I was much amused one day watching their cute manoeuvring to sneak the food from a monkey I had fixed to a pole by a chain. It was done in this way. The food of rice and curry had been taken to the monkey by my boy in a tin pannikin, and was detected by the quick eyes of some crows in the trees close by. They flew down and surrounded Jacko, who went on busily
20
JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
eating, pretending to take no notice. Eventually one of the crows, evidently intentionally, waddled up danger- ously near, but quite on the alert to make its escape. This was the ruse. The monkey at once left his food and made a spring for the crow, when another crow in the rear immediately took advantage of the opportunity to pick up the can and fly away with its contents. These carrion crows are so numerous and increase to such an extent in Trincomalie as to become a great nuisance,
THE BAZAAR, TRINCOMALIE
and frequent battues were some years ago organized to keep them under.
Disposing of the Matale carts, we make this our abode for a few days, to overhaul gear, replenish stores, arrange a shoot, and procure the necessary licences, for which the following sums have to be paid : — 100 rupees for an elephant. 20 rupees for wild buffaloes. 10 rupees for ordinary game.
WHAT CEYLON OFFERS THE SPORTSMAN 23
There are two other ways than that given above of reaching Trincomalie from Colombo if so preferred One, owing to the recent opening of the railway line through the Island to Jaffna, can now be taken overland via Anuradhapura, which makes the road journey some- what shorter, although perhaps not as interesting. Another way is by sea, there being a regular weekly service of steamers that ply round the Island touching at all ports.
At this point I ought, however, to remind my readers that nothing more effectually knocks one up and inter- feres with the enjoyment of sport as the want of timely and refreshing sleep ; also that moderation in the pleasures of the table, adherence to temperance in the enjoyment of stimulants, together with regular exercise and frequent use of the bath, form the way to keep in health and make life worth living. Beer and spirits should be avoided as much as possible when on the shoot.
Should one at any time feel " run down " and require " bucking up," a trip to the Island Sanatorium. Newera- Eliya, 6,000 feet above sea level, where the climate is cool and bracing, will be found beneficial and effective. The scenery en route is remarkably fine, and Newera- Eliya possesses, amongst other attractions, a good club and an excellent golf course.
One of the most important things to remember is, to avoid chills, which are produced by sitting or standing about in draughts and dry winds with damp clothes. Should a warning sensation of chilliness at any time appear, the sportsmen should change at once into some warm dry clothing and take a little quinine.
The camp should not be pitched in or near swampy ground or stagnant pools, and at night a sportsman should always sleep under mosquito curtains.
These will not only preserve one from the attacks of mosquitoes and other jungle pests, but are at the same time great preventives of malaria.
CHAPTER II SPORTING LOCALITIES
THE best sporting localities near Trincomalie may be, roughly, classified as under :—
Distance- from Pest House. 3-| miles •• 13
ANDAN KULAM TAMBLEGAM . . VANDRASSEN KULAM KANTHALAI . . NILLAVELLI . . KUCHCHEVELLI PERIYA KULAM TERAYAI PULMODDAI . . VELVERRI PAN KULAM ALLAI, TOPORE PUTUR VELLI
COOMBANATCHIE ICHEHILAMPATTAI
E.P
Kaady Road Kandy Road . . ,
24 ,, . . Kandy Road
25 . . Kandy Road
8 „ . . North Coast Road w
20 ,, (about) North Coast Road „
6i ,, . . North Coast Road ,,
29 ,, (about) North Coast Road ,,
35 ,, (about) North Coast Road
7 ,, . . Anuradhapura Road ,,
15 ,, . . Anuradhapnra Road ,,
14 „ . . Kottiar Side
19 ,, (about) Kottiar Side
28 ,, (about) Kottiar Side
35 ,, (about) Kottiar Side
23 ,, . . Kottiar Side
ANDAN KULAM is a pretty little tank, close to Trin- comalie, and is about two miles round. One can get here a shot at crocodiles, and teal in the wet season. Prior to its restoration some few years ago, by its retired position, it formed an attractive spot for game, many specimen^ of the Ceylon fauna having been secured by the writer. Since the water has been let in, fine trees which were a feature of the place have died, and the cover and feeding grounds have disappeared, as well
24
SPORTING LOCALITIES
27
as the game. A casual elephant may now and again visit it, and bears are to be found in the neighbourhood. TAMBLEGAM is at the thirteenth mile on the Kandy Road. Here there is a comfortable rest house where one can put up and obtain refreshments. About a quarter of a mile from this is one of the largest stretches of marsh and paddy fields in the district, affording some of the finest snipe shooting in the Island. The walking up is fairly heavy, but this is compensated for by the birds being somewhat lazy on the wing.
A LAGOON NEAR NILLAVELLI
Painted snipe are frequently flushed in the swamps, but jack snipe are somewhat rare. Deer and other game are to be met with round the borders.
VANDRASSEN KULAM is a smallish tank close to Kan- thalai, lying in a secluded position. It is a favourite resort for elephant, buffalo, sambur and other game. Peafowl are plentiful, as well as waterfowl, and snipe when in season.
KANTHALAI. The jungle surroundings here are as varied as they are extensive, affording splendid cover for every
28 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
species of game. In the adjoining paddy fields good snipe shooting is to be had, as I have explained in the next chapter.
NILLAVELLI is eight miles distant on the North Road, and has a good rest house near the sea. A great native industry is carried on here in the cultivation of salt, which forms a source of revenue to the country. The salt is manufactured by raising sea-water from the shallow estuary close by, and placing it into salt pans, about sixty or seventy feet square and twelve inches in depth, which are formed by levelling and embanking the deeply impregnated soil. Then, as evaporation from the intense heat takes place, the dry salt crystals are left behind. These are carefully collected and stored.
Owing to this trade and the fact that the village is somewhat thickly populated, game is scarce in the immediate neighbourhood, although elephant, wild buffalo and deer are sometimes met with within a few miles of the rest house. There are paddy fields close by where snipe lie in the season. About a mile or so seaward rises a rocky formation known as " Pigeon Island," so named from the great numbers of " blue rock " pigeons which collect there. Its isolation, rugged nature, and thick green stunted growth of vegetation make it an ideal breeding ground. There are several outlying smaller rocks similarly clothed, and flights of pigeons may be constantly seen passing over from one to another, affording some fine sport.
To work a shoot here satisfactorily, a large native canoe is necessary to convey the sportsmen and camping necessaries to the main Island, where some of the guns are placed in commanding positions. A second canoe (small kind) which is towed behind is required for planting other guns on the outlying islets, and picking up the birds falling in the water.
The author has often made such excursions to the spot
SPORTING LOCALITIES 31
in company with friends, and has returned with heavy bags.
Turtle are frequently come across in the many sandy nooks to be found near the water's edge.
PERIYA KULAM is about one and a half miles from Nillavelli rest house. It is a fairly large tank, and is well stocked with crocodiles. Teal are plentiful here during the wet season, and the surrounding country with its paddy fields is good for miscellaneous shooting, including snipe.
KUCHCHEVELLI has a good but somewhat unique- looking rest house near the sea, and lies about twelve miles north of Nillavelli, in a good sporting country. Deer are plentiful, so are leopard, besides all other game, as the numberless tracks passed on the road testify.
TERAYAI is about nine miles further on, has a con- venient rest house, and lies more inland, in the heart of a deer country, with plains, salt marshes, swamps, lagoons, low scrub and big jungle, in which deer delight ; it is a favourite haunt also of the elephant and buffalo. Leopards are also numerous, and hares are frequently put up amongst the heathery growth of the salt plains. Delicious oysters, curiously enough, are a feature here, and are obtained in any quantity from the salt lagoons within a mile or so of the bungalow.
What strikes a sportsman as particularly interesting are the large troops of monkeys which can be seen assembled here on the plains in the afternoon for recreation, from the big wanderoo to the small " macacus sinicus ' or little brown monkey. They take great precautions to guard themselves from the intrusion of unwelcome visitors, and place several cordons of sentries, generally wanderoos, on the tops of the highest outlying trees, who keep careful watch, and on the first indication of approaching danger give a warning signal, a low " coo
32 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
whoop ! " from one to the other, until it reaches the main body perhaps hundreds of yards away, when the whole will at once gradually retire to the cover of the nearest jungle in as regular and orderly a manner as a company of soldiers.
The writer has many times, out of curiosity, watched these assemblies from a secluded spot, and been greatly amused by their antics. On one occasion he came across a number collected together sitting round in a large circle, and by their chatter and gesticulations were no doubt busily engaged arranging some very important form of lively entertainment. Many little chaps nestled in the laps of their mothers, while others were mounted on the shoulders of the older monkeys looking on, taking as much interest as any in the proceedings going forward.
The nature of the sport settled, an amusing scene then took place, reminding one very much of a well- known old country game played at home by human beings, " kiss in the ring." Their ridiculous tricks made it appear absurdly real. A knowing " old sports- man " with plenty of the old Adam in him, tail erect and a merry, mischievous twinkle in the eye, would com- mence by quietly strolling round the circle in a most sedate and dignified manner, apparently quite uncon- cerned and indifferent to the excited and modest emotions displayed by the gentler sex present.
When, after careful inspection, he had selected his " best gal," he vigorously pulled her tail, and then made off for all he was worth, screaming with exultation and every expression of intense delight and laughter, the other in full chase in and out and round about the assem- bled company. When caught there would be an em- brace and a bit of a " rough and tumble," which probably answered as a very fair substitute for the usual osculatory salute, in which the spectators seemed greatly interested
SPORTING LOCALITIES 35
and pleased, showing their appreciation by excited shrieks and grimaces. After this, order was restored, the ring assumed its original form, and the game con- tinued or changed to another, perhaps more ludicrously funny, the monkeys evidently immensely enjoying the fun.
Monkeys' mimicry and amusing tricks in captivity are nothing compared to what they are in their native condi- tion.
PULMODDAI, the next station, is another six miles distant, and very similar to that of Terayai as to the game' in the neighbourhood. Elephants, perhaps, are more numerous, and good peafowl shooting is to be had.
VELVERRI is a small native village, with a little rudely built structure used as a Roman Catholic Church. It is about seven miles from Trincomalie on the Anuradha- pura road, and is good for waterhole shooting. Bear and leopard abound in the jungle round about. There are five holes within a radius of four miles, one of which lies within half a mile.
PAN KULAM is eight miles further on, and has a P.W.D. bungalow overlooking the tank, which, like most other tanks, swarms with crocodiles. The country round about affords some good miscellaneous shooting, includ- ing teal and snipe.
Here may be seen the native fisherman busily engaged capturing " lulu " (tank fish) by the novel means of a bottomless basket, which he places over likely spots in the shallow water ; then, by insert- ing his hand through the aperture above, he feels for the fish in the mud below, which, when caught, are strung on a piece of ratan cane, and trailed behind from the fisherman's waist.
During long droughts, when the tanks dry up, the " lulu " will travel some distance across country in search of water ; it also hibernates. It is then interest-
36
JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
ing to watch a native with his mammoty (spade) make a hole in the hard-baked surface of the crusted earth and bring forth fish from the soft clayey soil beneath.
The writer has witnessed on his jungle travels at such times great numbers of these fish in the act of migrating overland from one tank to another, under a broiling sun, hopping along gaily through hot sand and dried-up vege- tation covered with dust.
The " lulu " in appearance somewhat resembles the
BASKET FISHERMEN CATCHING " LULU "
carp ; they are good eating in the rainy season, but at other times have a muddy taste. A good fish may weigh three or four pounds.
ALLAI is another large tank situated on the Kottiar side of Trincomalie, near the Moor village of Topore. It is well stocked with crocodiles, some of which are exceedingly large. It is almost a sure find for elephants,
lite
SPORTING LOCALITIES 39
and the country in the neighbourhood is generally good for game. Some of the finest duck and teal shooting can be had on the great lake, the long grass and weeds growing thereon giving the birds splendid cover, at the same time forming excellent feeding grounds. Topore also possesses a fine stretch of paddy fields, where the best of snipe shooting can be enjoyed.
Once when strolling round this tank with a friend (Sir Peter Walker), a keen sportsman and an excellent shot, the author came on the fresh tracks of a very fine alien (solitary elephant). Anxious to give his friend a shot before he left the Island, as he was only on a short visit, they decided to follow up.
The tracks led through many interesting varieties of jungle, which eventually, after two hours' hard tracking, brought them up to the quarry, lying asleep in jungle most difficult to penetrate.
Its form could just be made out in the dark and uncertain light of the forest, but owing to the density of the brushwood they could not further advance without disturbing the brute, much less get a shot. The situation was certainly awkward.
After a short consultation it was determined to break quickly through the undergrowth, getting as near as possible, and taking their chance. This they did, and in a second the brute was on its legs, making straight for them with a low grunt and a wild scream of rage.
Sir Peter then fired a shot which dropped it. Rising immediately, it was again on its legs, about to charge ; but, luckily, before it could do any damage it fell dead within a few yards by another well-directed shot, which reached the brain.
My friend's delight at such an unexpected stroke of good luck may be well imagined, this being his first elephant, and a record one, too ! The brute was a well- known dangerous " rogue " that had haunted the neigh-
40 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
bourhood for some time, to the danger and annoyance of the native cultivators. Its measurements were :— height, from centre of back, ten feet five inches ; the circumference of fore feet, sixty-two and a half inches.
A few days later he left overland for Colombo, en route to England, and again had the wonderful good fortune to bag another on the road, in rather a unique manner. He had arrived at the Alutoya rest house, about thirty miles from Trincomalie, where he stopped for lunch, the bullock carts with all his personal belongings remaining in the compound. Here he met an old acquaintance, who told him about a rogue elephant, on the road close by, that had been chasing coolies and had also held up the mails. A few minutes later his boy " Punch " came running in, in a wild state of excitement, shouting " Anei ! Anei ! Durai ! "
Both ran out, and sure enough there it was, within a few hundred yards of the bungalow, coming on with its trunk swinging from side to side. Immediate action was necessary, but the gun was lying packed at the bottom of the cart with a lot of gear on top. Quickly turning out the things, he secured the gun case, got at the gun, put in a couple of cartridges, and with a few spare cart- ridges handy in his pocket, he managed to creep up and get under cover of some bushes near the trunk of a large ironwood tree by the side of the road.
The elephant soon approached, enabling him to make a sure shot that killed it on the spot. He thus secured two fine elephants within the short space of a few days — both record ones, too — a most unusual stroke of good luck and a very satisfactory termination to a short but no doubt pleasant visit to Trincomalie.
PUTUR is a little native village five or six miles further on. It lies in a good game country. Elephants fre- quently roam about here, and bears are particularly thick in the neighbourhood. There is a waterhole four
SPORTING LOCALITIES 43
miles off, in a secluded part of the jungle, well known to the villagers, where on a moonlight night one can be well entertained by a bear shoot.
VELLI is an interesting and large plain, surrounded by jungle, in a splendid game country. It is a feeding ground for the elephant, and is described in my chapter on " Elephant Shooting."
COOMBANATCHIE is about seven miles distant from Velli. A branch of the Mahawellaganga river runs close by. It is an ideal haunt of the elephant and all other game, and is also alluded to in my chapter on " Elephant Shooting."
ICHEHILAMPATTAI lies about nine miles down the Batticaloa coast road from Topore in a good game country, noted principally to sportsmen for the numerous waterholes in the vicinity, affording the best bear and leopard shooting in the district. It is also referred to in a chapter on waterhole shooting. There is a rest house here for use of travellers.
Other well-known sporting localities which the writer can recommend :—
THE GUNNERS QUOIN, half-way between Trincomalie and Batticaloa, E.P.
TIRIKUNAMOTTUWA and KANDA KADU, within a few miles of Coombanatchie, N.C.P.
VADDAKACHCHI, about nine miles south-east of Kan- thalai, N.C.P.
MINER: TANK, about twelve miles from the Haborenni rest house, on the Kandy Road, N.C.P.
Although game has been described as plentiful in the different localities mentioned, the various animals are not much seen in the open, which is no doubt due to the grand cover the forests afford. All wild game are, as a rule, timid and shy by nature, so they instinctively hide from view in the most out-of-the-way, secluded, shady glades and nooks of the jungle, where they feel
44 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
secure from being disturbed. They therefore require some hunting up.
Many animals escape observation by their colour harmonizing so much with the foliage and undergrowth of the background, so the sportsman should therefore try and cultivate what is termed by shikaris " a jungle eye," that is, an eye trained to quickly distinguish animals from their jungle surroundings, but this can only be gained by practice and careful observation.
In the chapters following are given a few descriptive sketches of typical low-country shoots, taken from the author's diaries and illustrated by incidents that he has experienced.
The author might perhaps be allowed to mention here that although he introduces two friends shooting together, in his hunting sketches, to show that such companionable trips are often made, he would not re- commend this arrangement to obtain the best sport. Besides the extra noise made by numbers in tracking, and the greater likelihood of being seen by wild game, the plan interferes more or less with the shooting, and there- fore better results may be expected from going alone.
Let us, however, assume that the necessary licences have been obtained, and the close months are over, and it has been agreed to commence with a miscellaneous shoot around the famous tank of Kanthalai, by way of initiation and to get a general idea of sport in Ceylon. All the gear can be conveyed along the road by bullock carts, and on this trip coolie bearers will not be required. Trackers, as well as any casual labour necessary, can be obtained on the spot.
The express and smooth bores will be found the most useful guns, and, in addition to the ordinary supply of rifle and ball cartridges, some six and eight shot cartridges should be included for small game and snipe.
All camping requirements should be arranged and
COAST ROAD, TERAYAI
SPORTING LOCALITIES
47
packed, including provisions for about four days. They should be placed in carts engaged for the purpose, and started on the road by daybreak, together with the native attendants. We who form the actual party follow somewhat later on the ponies.
Bullock-cart travelling being proverbially slow, we soon overtake the expedition, and eventually, after a
CAMP NEAR SNIPE MARSHES, TAMBLEGAM
pleasant morning's ride, pull up at the Tamblegam rest house (thirteenth mile), half-way, for tiffin, and to refresh the bullocks, our arrival being greeted by the whoop ! of the wanderoo and the chattering of other numerous monkeys in the surrounding woods.
Near this rest house are extensive paddy fields and snipe marshes considered to be the best in the district. Large bags have been frequently made here, and to give an idea of the vast numbers of snipe that at times
48 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
settle on these marshes, the writer may mention that he has often had three to five birds down without moving from one position, and has known as many as a hundred couple falling to one gun in a day during the season.
Having rested, the carts are again put in motion, and the latter part of the journey of twelve miles re- sumed. Mounting our nags we ride on ahead, the rest fo lowing on as best they can. After a pleasant canter we leave the monotony of the road, arriving at our destination in good time. Here a delightfully cool and refreshing view of the fine lake of Kanthalai in all its beauty lies before us. This lake is doubly interesting from its great historical antiquity and artificial origin. There are, however, many such tanks in the Island, constructed nearly 2,000 years ago for irrigating pur- poses, by the then ruling kings of Ceylon, and during an age of forced labour. Their formation was effected by throwing a gigantic stone bund or embankment across the embouchure of a valley enclosing a range of hills, thus arresting and retaining all flowing waters.
Dismounting and putting up our horses in the stabling provided, we enter the rest house, and take possession of two long chairs in the verandah overlooking the tank on a level with the top of the ancient bund. Here we light our pipes and enjoy the captivating scene.
There is little wind, and hardly a ripple disturbs the mirror-like surface of this splendid and extensive sheet of water, in which are reflected the distant hills and much luxuriant foliage. Herds of buffaloes are seen grazing near the water's edge. Other herds are lying about in the grateful shade of the trees of the surrounding forests. A little nearer some crocodiles are basking in the sun on a spit of sand, and a number of cormorants, looking grotesque with outspread wings, are airing them- selves on an arid island rock.
On our right a number of huge white pelican are lazily
KANDY ROAD
NEAR TAMBLEGAM
SPORTING LOCALITIES 51
flying across the hazy tank, while several pelican, with their conspicuous long beaks and dilatable pouches, are resting on the glassy surface of the placid water, busily engaged in piscatorial pursuits. Flights of duck, teal, and many other kinds of waterfowl are to be seen on the move in all directions, and numerous darters and other diving birds are constantly popping up, only to disappear again almost immediately under water. Below us, creating quite a wave, is a large crocodile cruising round.
Our thoughts, I am afraid, have been taken up so much with this charming picture that time has been flying by unnoticed. Now it is getting late, and in the distance is heard the rumbling and squeaking of wheels, mingled with the jabbering of native voices. A little later our boys turn up, and report the arrival of the carts. They look somewhat tired and dusty, but are evidently pleased at having come to the end of a long, dry, and hot journey.
While they are busily employed unpacking, our atten- tion is attracted by the gorgeous sunset across the lake. Its roseate and golden glow lights up the sky and all the surrounding scenery with marvellous brilliance, and this vista is reflected in the water, making a most strikingly beautiful and harmonious picture. Such wonderful richness and blends of colour are only to be seen under the influences of a tropical sun.
A few minutes later darkness sets in, and Marmosi, a well-known Moor Shikari, appears in the dim light of the verandah for orders. We engage him, and also two Tamil coolies, with directions to be ready for us at daybreak.
CHAPTER III ON A MISCELLANEOUS SHOOTING TRIP
IT may be taken as an axiom by sportsmen that the more remote from civilization the better are the chances of sport, as game is not so likely to have been harassed. Another useful hint is this — provide yourself with a shrill metal whistle for stopping deer when breaking cover and bolting across a plain. A loud shrill blast generally has the desired effect, and gives a capital opportunity to pick out a good head.
Low scrub jungle, long grass and swamps, are likely places to find buffalo, sambur, spotted deer and pig.
The most telling and effective shot for deer is just behind the shoulder. This also applies to most game except the Indian elephant. Make as little noise as possible, and avoid treading on brittle pieces of dead wood when tracking or stalking. Don't walk in an upright position when hunting up game in scrub jungle and glades bordering thereon. Keep the gun and body low, so as not to attract attention, and look well under the bushes.
In long grass, where the body of a deer would naturally be more or less hid from view, look out for the flap of an ear or movement of antlers just above. In stalking, be sure the wind is not blowing from yourself towards the quarry. Keep low down and take advantage of every tuft of grass or bush to screen yourself from view.
Provide yourself with a small muslin bag of wood
52
ON A MISCELLANEOUS SHOOTING TRIP 53
ashes. This, flicked with the finger, will give the direc- tion of the wind when doubtful, and no sportsman should be without it.
The author had once an interesting stalking experience which may bear relating. A large pith hat, which had been painted green to make it rainproof, was one day accidentally sat upon. On being forced into shape again the paint surface was much cracked, and the new white markings gave the remainder of the green paint surface the appearance, at a distance, of vine leaves. With this on his arm as a shield, he crept along on hands and knees, endeavouring to stalk a herd of spotted deer grazing in the open, with little or no cover. So well and successfully did this ruse answer, that he got within fifty or sixty yards and was covering the finest head, when one of the herd, a doe, curious at seeing so strange an object on the plain, actually trotted up to him within a few feet, when, suddenly struck with alarm, it gave a loud warning bark, but too late to prevent the stag falling to the gun.
When short of matches it is a good plan to take a shot cartridge, remove shot and wads, and place a piece of rag in their place. Then fire at a bank or trunk of a tree, when the rag will be found to be sufficiently ignited to kindle a fire.
A simple snipe carrier which will be found both handy and useful is easily made of a thin piece of tough wood t" by 3" by 24", with a f " slot cut up the centre, terminat- ing at one end with a round hole ~L\" diameter, in which a movable wooden plug is inserted. It is slung and carried by a piece of cord made fast through holes at the ends.
We turn out duly a little before daybreak, have some early breakfast, get into shooting rig, see to our guns and ammunition, pack up some refreshments in the
54 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
haversack, and then, handing the rifles, cartridges, bags, and other gear to the tracker and coolies, pick up our shot guns, which are handier and more adaptable than the rifle for the snap shots we are likely to get in cover.
Leaving the rest house on our left, we soon reach the bed of the tank, skirting the jungle. The morning air is cool, crisp, and refreshing, but the long grass through which we walk is uncomfortably cold and wet, and so are the bushes, from the effects of the heavy dew during the night. Happily, we soon get accustomed to these discomforts, and trip along elated at the prospect of some good sport ahead.
Our intention is to commence on the larger game, such as buffalo and sambur chital (spotted deer), after- wards trying our luck on peafowl, duck and snipe, making a complete circuit of the tank, about fifteen or sixteen miles, getting back to the rest house about mid-day, and winding up in the afternoon by a snipe shoot on the other side of the bund close to our headquarters.
The weather is all that could be desired, dullish, with a gentle breeze blowing in our faces. Thanks to the recent rains, the spoor shows up very clearly. It is just the right kind of morning to find game about, so we proceed at a quickish pace, as the country is somewhat open, keeping a good look-out in eager anticipation of getting the first shot. Soon we near the edge of the water, going through clumps of long grass, while snipe and snippets are getting up on every side. The " did he do it " plover is hovering around making its shrill, alarming call, and the adjacent forest is alive with chatter- ing monkeys that spring from tree to tree.
Entering some scrub jungle, we come on some patches of velvety grass land, dotted here and there with splendid screening bushes and plenty of shade. This is an ideal
ON A MISCELLANEOUS SHOOTING TRIP 55
grazing ground for deer. Indeed, numerous tracks of deer are visible, besides those of a large leopard, evidently on the hunt.
Suddenly I hear two shots ahead, and, hurrying up, I find my friend had eased off two barrels at a deer as it sprang past him. Rapidly we take a look round, and in a few minutes the tracker spots fresh blood marks on a dead leaf, which he draws our attention to. This is quite sufficient inducement to follow up, but we do not go far before we hear something struggling amongst the undergrowth.
Marmosi gets quickly through the brushwood and gives a triumphant " Ugh ! " call, which brings us soon to the spot. There we find at his feet a full-grown chital stag with a grand head. It had been killed by a good shot, one bullet having entered just behind the shoulder, the other grazing the back. Placing it in the fork of a tree to save it from jackals, and marking the spot, we move onwards, encouraged by the result of our first kill.
A little later Marmosi draws my attention to the fresh spoor of a big elephant. " Periya anei ! " says he, much interested, and by the size of its footprints he was right. It must have been there but a few minutes before, and made off on hearing the first shot.
We are now nearing the head of the tank, keeping close under cover of the jungle, when suddenly the tracker again stops short, and whispers in my ear " Man ! Man ! " (Deer ! Deer !), at the same time pointing with his finger. Looking in the direction, I see a herd about 400 yards off, half-way between the water and jungle, in a clearing of grass. There is a fine stag amongst them, and as it is necessary to stalk these, we enter the jungle and creep along as quickly and noiselessly as possible, every now and again taking an observation through the openings in the foliage.
56 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
Our progress, however, is soon arrested by the density and impassable nature of the undergrowth. While searching for a way through, I surprise a fine sambur about fifty yards away on my right, with a fine spread of antlers. This is a chance not to be missed, and by a quick snap shot, I roll it over as it is in the act of bolting ; but recovering itself immediately, it is up and again about to make off, when another shot drops it and kills it.
We mark the spot and move on again, now by the side of the jungle, with the long grass and tank on our left. In a few minutes another stag is sighted some 250 yards off. Taking advantage of all cover that is handy, and doing a little manoeuvring, I manage to get within 150 yards of it. Then, when it raises its head, I take careful aim with my Express and bring it down. On getting up to it I discover it to be a fine young chital stag, but not quite such a good head as the first. Placing this, like the others, in safety, we continue our tracking, and are soon at the further end of the tank.
As it is now past eight o'clock and the sun fairly hot, we sit under the grateful shade of a large kumbook tree, near the edge of the water, and enjoy a snack, lubricated with a refreshing and frisky bottle of Pilsener beer, most acceptable after our strenuous morning's exertions, and in due course indulge in a smoke. While thus pleasantly occupied we are much interested watching the many kinds of waders and other waterfowl we see before us. A little distance away we can see rose-coloured flamingoes, ibises, various kinds of herons and storks, including the great and dignified marabou, with its featherless head and enormous beak, wading in the shallows with majestic and stately measured strides. Nearer are innumerable waterfowl, including the " quack- a-duck " cotton teal, fleets of Coromandel teal, darters, bittern, curlew, and many other varieties too numerous
4t--
-*.:-,.
a
^^v
ON A MISCELLANEOUS SHOOTING TRIP 59
to mention, besides different kinds of bright-plumaged kingfishers.
By a gentle pressure on the arm, Marmosi draws my attention to a huge crocodile in the act of crawling out of the water on the opposite bank, about seventy-five or eighty yards off. Without being observed, I slip a cartridge into my Express, raise it very quietly, aim for the shoulder and fire. The crocodile shows no move- ment for a little time, then opens its capacious jaws, turns over on its side, and is motionless. As it is some- what late we get up and commence the homeward march, putting a couple of No. 6 shot cartridges in the smooth bores for small game.
The crocodile just shot lies in our path. Approaching it, we take its measurement. It is 13' 6" in length, and very bulky in proportion. The shot had taken effect just behind the shoulder, the bullet having gone clean through, making a large hole on the opposite side, due to the expanding bullet. Just then a flight of whistling teal pass over our heads. Aiming at the foremost birds, we ease off four barrels, bringing down nine.
Gathering these up, we next try our luck on snipe in the long wet grass, and for some little time amuse ourselves with this delightful change of sport. The snipe patches round this side of the tank are very sketchy, and birds are only come upon here and there, but never- theless we get some fair shooting.
Arriving at a deep stream which threatens to bar our progress, we have to make a detour through the forest on our right. Emerging again on the tank about a quarter of a mile further on, we pass through some low scrub jungle and water, in which are numerous large earth-worm mounds. Wading through this for some time, we are suddenly confronted by a large wild boar, standing almost upright, with its fore feet resting on the top of one of the hummocks, looking very fierce and
60 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
formidable with its sharp, curled-up, awe-inspiring tusks. Luckily, I had already replaced the shot cartridges by ball, and, firing full at the chest, with a grunt it fell dead.
Immediately afterwards, to our surprise, we are surrounded by a sounder, pig appearing in all directions, seemingly powerless to bolt, fascinated no doubt by the motionless body of their lord. Before they eventually clear off they lose five of their number.
" That's a bit of warm, exciting work ! " say I to my companion.
" Hard to beat, and most entertaining," he replies with a smile. After which remark Marmosi and the coolies place the game under the shelter of some bushes, and we continue our march.
A number of ominous dark, heavy-looking water buffaloes are now seen a little way off, with noses in the air, sniffing and gazing at us in a somewhat threatening manner. This is due most probably to curiosity, and as we enter some long grass they are soon lost sight of. Before leaving the bed of the tank we manage to bag a jungle cock and a few more snipe, eventually fetching up at the rest house at noon very warm, dusty and thirsty, glad of a cool whisky and soda. Then, making arrangements for coolies and carts to bring in the bag, we tub and have tiffin, with a special entree of snipe.
At three in the afternoon we, with our shikari men, make a start for the snipe ground, taking a good supply of No. 8 cartridges. We engage two snipe boys from the village as we pass through, and these are utilized to pick up the birds and carry spare cartridges, and in a short time are busy in the paddy fields.
The scene presented to us now is quite different from that of the morning. We find before us in bright tropical sunlight a large expanse of marsh and paddy fields bordered by jungle growth. Native cultivators are busy
A MOOR "SNIPE BOY
WITH EARLY MORNING BAG
ON A MISCELLANEOUS SHOOTING TRIP 63
at work in different parts, tilling the land with the clumsy- looking but patient and hardworking water buffaloes that toil through the sticky mud, yoked to very primitive wooden ploughs, their hairless dark brown hides shining in the sun. In other directions are numerous buffaloes grazing on the drier portion of the marsh, while other buffaloes are lazily lying about wallowing in muddy swamps, for the sake of coolness and to rid themselves from the annoyance of flies and other insects, and are surrounded by numbers of egrets and other white paddy birds, some of which are seen perched on the animals' backs. Wherever one looks, these birds, together with many other kinds of waders, are to be seen ; while the ever-present and conspicuous Brahmany kite, with its bright brown body, white head and neck, is hovering above, only waiting an opportunity to swoop down on some unfortunate bird that may attract its attention. So daring are they that the author has known them to catch and carry off birds in the act of falling on being shot. They will even swoop down and seize such game when it is lying dead at a sportsman's feet. Snippets (small waders) are also very plentiful and baffle one considerably while snipe shooting, getting up constantly in all directions with their peculiar shrill cry. One's attention is therefore very apt to be drawn off by their unexpected and sudden flights.
Snipe are plentiful and not too wild. To work the ground properly my friend and myself arrange to separate for the time and meet later on at the further end of the fields. So with a native shikari on one side and a boy on the other, to work up the birds, we in this formation com- mence our shoot, gradually increasing the distance between us. Snipe are rising all round, and our guns are kept well employed. In about an hour's time we meet at the ap- pointed rendezvous with a good show of birds each. After enjoying a smoke and a chat we work back, exchanging
64
JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
grounds. Although the shooting is not quite so brisk as before, we have no reason to complain, as the birds are still fairly plentiful, and keep us entertained. We get back to headquarters a little later on and count the bag — thirty-six and a half couple between us — not so bad for two and a half hours' work. The carts with the morning's shoot have arrived during our absence,
A BOAR TUSK TROPHY
and the heads of game are laid out for inspection in the compound.
These comprise one sambur, two chital stags, one crocodile and five pig, to which must be added nine teal, one jungle cock, and forty-six and a half couple of snipe, the result of a very enjoyable and satisfactory day's sport.
ON A MISCELLANEOUS SHOOTING TRIP 65
A few coolies from the village are now engaged to do the skinning. The flesh of the animals, after taking what we require, is handed over as a present to the villagers and is distributed through their " headman " by beat of " tom-tom," although I may add it has its marketable value.
The pleasure of a miscellaneous shoot lies, of course, in its great variety.
Here I might perhaps add an account of a rather amusing and exciting incident which occurred one day on returning from a snipe shoot at Tamblegam. Driving back in the dogcart I happened to be passing an aban- doned cocoanut plantation. It was a very hot morning, and clouds of dust were rising from the road, making one feel somewhat thirsty. The horsekeeper, who had been evidently looking with a longing eye at the juicy nuts in the trees, could no longer resist the temptation, and at last came out with " would master like one green cocoanut ? " which meant, of course, six for me and half a dozen for himself.
As I thought the cool milk of a green cocoanut would, at that time of the morning, be most refreshing, I said : " Yes, but how can you manage to get them ? "
" That's all right, Durai (Master)," said he, " I climb- ing."
He was a nimble, wiry little fellow, so making a loop with a piece of coir rope, he put his feet into it, and was up the tree like a monkey, his arms clasping the trunk.
I watched him ascending, and as he neared the crown or head of the tree where the nuts were hanging, and was about to screw one off, I heard him suddenly exclaim " pambu ! " (snake), at the same time letting go his hold and falling to the ground, the snake following. By good luck his fall was broken by tumbling into some bushes, while the snake hurried off to its hole.
He was out of that thicket in a " brace of shakes,"
66 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
and in another minute was standing before me panting, looking terribly scared and excited, giving his version of what happened. It appeared that when he had ascended to the top of the tree he saw, to his great alarm, just above him, and within a few inches of his face, the head of a cobra, with hood extended, hissing, about to strike. This gave him such a sudden fright as to make him let go his hold and fall. The cause of the cobra's anger was due to his pinching of its tail against the trunk with the hand by which he was clinging to the tree. With the exception of a few scratches, and the fact that his usual natural warm brown colour had temporarily changed to a sickly spotted pea-green, he was none the worse for his adventure, but it was a narrow escape for him, although rather amusing to the looker-on.
CHAPTER IV AFTER THE INDIAN BUFFALO
INDIAN water buffaloes (Bos bubalus) in a semi- tame state are found all over Ceylon. They are utilized by the natives in many ways — the cultiva- tion of crops, cart drawing, and as pack oxen (tavlems). Long files of the last-named may be often encountered on the jungle roads. They are provided with mellow tinkling wooden bells, and move slowly along in the tropical heat and glare of the sun, laden with sacks of paddy and other products. Hunters also use them in shooting game, concealing themselves under cover of the animal trained to the sport. Steering with a rope from the horns, they are often able to approach close to their quarry unobserved.
These buffalo are heavy and awkward looking, of a dunnish slate colour, with hides scantily supplied with hair. They possess strikingly massive and long, flattened horns, which are angulated and strongly marked with transverse wrinkles. When in quick motion they have an extraordinary way of lifting the head, stretching out the neck, with nostrils in the air, making the horns lie flat on the shoulders.
This no doubt is a provision of Nature, for it enables them to get through the thick bush.
It is sometimes very disquieting to the nerves when passing herds of these formidable creatures browsing in the open to notice the great interest aroused in them
67
68 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
by the sight of an European. Quickly raising their heads with a snort, and concentrating their gaze in the direc- tion of the intruder, they advance slowly for a time, then suddenly wheel round and form into line, with a great clashing and clanking of their massive horns, as if about to charge, looking very ferocious. Although warlike, this action is, as a rule, only the result of curiosity or nervousness.
In the calving season they are uncertain and dangerous in disposition, attacking one sometimes without pro- vocation. Should a sportsman therefore be in their vicinity at such a time, it is as well to give them a wide berth and always be prepared in case of emergency with a bullet.
An interesting feature is the attraction they have for the white paddy birds, which swarm round them in numbers in the paddy fields, some mounting on their backs, while they are listlessly grazing. Crows may often be seen perched there also, regaling themselves on the tics of which the hides and ears are plentifully stocked.
The wild buffalo, " Kula Madu," as they are termed by the natives, differ somewhat from the domesticated ones. Although similar in build, they are finer animals, better set up and more active and formidable in appear- ance, standing about fifteen hands at the withers. The bulls have a quantity of rough dark brownish hair over the neck and shoulders. This stands up when the animals get excited, giving them a ferocious appearance. Their haunts are the tall grass jungles in the low country of the northern and eastern provinces, in the neighbour- hood of swamps and low jungle, where rivers, lagoons and old tanks abound.
In these waters they seem to delight, immersing them- selves in the muddy depths, with only the tops of their heads and horns above the surface. They thus protect
I
AFTER THE INDIAN BUFFALO 71
themselves from the annoyance of flies and other insects, and luxuriate on the long succulent sedges growing in the shallows. They feed chiefly on grass, in the evening, at night, and in the morning. They rest in long grass or in low scrub jungle during the day, and may also be found about this time in the marshes bordering the large tanks. They are not, as a rule, seen in large numbers together. The most the writer has come across at one time has been five or six.
Solitary bulls will often mix with tame herds. It is then difficult to shoot without perhaps wounding others, as the females are always surrounding and guarding them. Their sense of smell is extraordinary, and per- haps more acute than any other animal at long distances. On crossing plains sometimes, they may be observed nearly a mile off, with outstretched necks taking the scent. Their tracking, therefore, requires the greatest care and caution, as these savagely inclined, ponderous brutes are apt to charge unexpectedly when suddenly confronted.
The best shot is just behind the shoulder.
Some years ago a perilly (dangerous) buffalo haunted the neighbourhood of the large Mineri tank in the N.C.P. It had been the terror of the cultivators for some time past. Many sportsmen had been after it without success, and, although often shot at, it seemed to bear a charmed life. Therefore one day I thought I might try my luck, and accordingly made arrangements with a well-known Cingalese tracker, one " Christian Appu " by name, who lived in the neighbourhood of the tank and knew its haunts, to track it up.
We arrived at the tank early one morning and were soon on its spoor. After considerable tramping we saw in the distance a large herd of buffalo, which we made for, in the hope of perhaps finding it amongst them. As luck would have it, a good breeze was blowing in our
72 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
faces, and as we were well under cover, we did not attract attention, and got up fairly close to the herd.
Then Christian Appu at once spotted the wild bull. There was no mistaking it from its manner and appear- ance. We immediately commenced a careful stalk, and got within 100 yards, the long grass affording excel- lent cover. Some considerable time elapsed, however, before I could put in a shot, as for some reason the animals appeared to scent danger and the bull would not leave the centre of the herd, by which it was surrounded. By chance it eventually exposed itself, enabling me to put in a right and left, and although I distinctly heard both shots hit the animal, to my astonishment it did not fall, but went off with the others at a gallop.
I looked at Christian Appu, who did not seem surprised in the least, but said : " Many gentlemens firing all the same, and no killy, master !
" Well ! " thought I, " this is strange," and I continued to watch the herd as they were bolting across the plain. Suddenly they disappeared down the bed of a stream inter- secting the plain, reappearing on the other side soon after. One showed signs of going slow, and in another moment it had lowered its head, spun round and fallen over ; the rest of the herd disappeared in the jungle beyond.
We soon got down to the edge of the stream, and saw the bull on the opposite side, lying on all fours, with head erect. On taking a casual look round, I was surprised to find several Cingalee natives all armed with knives. From whence they came seemed a mystery, but they had evidently been following us unnoticed, with the object of cutting the throat of the beast when shot, drawing blood, thereby relieving religious scruples, and enabling them to eat the flesh.
All hesitated for a time to approach the wounded buffalo, when one, more daring than the others, made a dash across the stream and was soon alongside. He had
AFTER THE INDIAN BUFFALO
73
his knife ready, and was feeling the edge of it with his finger, when the bull suddenly got on his legs, and, with a loud snort, made straight for him. There was a bit of clear ground beyond, on which stood the stump of a large rhododendron tree. This stump the Cingalee went straight for, and was up it and into the fork like a rigger, but only arrived just in time to get out of reach of the bull.
The enraged animal then began to stamp and plough up the ground with its fore feet, bellowing furi- ously. While this was going on, I crept up close, the bull being too busily engaged to notice me, and placed a shot behind the shoulder, and the beast fell dead.
I would mention that while afterwards seated on the animal taking a rest, I felt some curious and hard lumps under the skin on its side. Being inquisitively inclined, I made incisions with my knife, and took out no less than six different kinds of bullets, proofs of the many attempts that had previously been made by various sportsmen to bag it without success.
The carcase was eventually tackled by the Cingalee followers, who were allowed to take the flesh on condition they brought in the trophies that I marked off.
A BUFFALO FOOT TROPHY
CHAPTER V
SPORT WITH THE LEOPARD, DEER, JACKAL AND WILD BOAR
EOPARDS are the only formidable members of the tiger race in Ceylon. They are numerous in the low country, living in cavities formed by masses of granitic gneiss boulders piled on each other. A rare black variety not spotted is seen occasionally. Leopards are found frequently in the vicinity of pasture lands, patenas, and other resorts where deer and cattle graze. On these animals they prey, but do not confine themselves to particular localities. Frequently they are seen prowling about big forests, up dry beds of streams, and often on the main road lying in wait in the side drains for stray cattle or dogs that may pass. They are, therefore, very likely to be met with on miscellaneous shoots, where one is led through open country and so many varieties of jungle.
Driving along the Kandy road one day with a friend, I saw near the fifth mile from Trincomalie a splendid specimen make a spring from the jungle seven or eight feet high, landing gracefully a few yards in front of the horse. It stood for a moment surveying us with its large expressive eyes, and then with slow majestic strides, as though contesting every inch of ground, entered the jungle on the opposite side. Although I followed it quickly with a gun, I could not find it. No doubt it had sprung on a bough of a large .tree, and by its harmonizing colours failed to attract attention.
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LEOPARD, DEER, JACKAL AND WILD BOAR 75
The partiality of leopards for dogs is extraordinary. They will take them at times from under one's very nose, and in the most daring manner. Cases have frequently happened where dogs have been actually seized from covered bullock carts while travelling in company with their masters.
The author had once a little pet Maltese poodle of which he was very fond. One day, while visiting a tank infested with crocodiles, it was carried by a friend of his for safety's sake. On meeting some people he knew, the friend put the dog down in order that he might greet them, when it immediately took advantage of the oppor- tunity to run back to its master, who was only a few yards behind. Unfortunately, before it had got half- way, a leopard sprang out from the scrub jungle close by, seized, and made off with it before one could realize what had taken place. No doubt the little white dog had attracted its attention some time before by its barking, and the beast had followed it, waiting for a chance to secure it.
The following remarkable and interesting incident occurred some few years ago on an occasion of sending home a leopard as a presentation to the Royal Zoolo- gical Society of London. The writer had caught it as a cub while on an elephant shoot in the north central province, and had kept it in captivity some four or five years. This shows how their wild nature may at times be suddenly changed to one of affection. It was a fine animal nearly full grown.
Placed in a strong travelling cage, it was taken on board a local steamer for passage round to Colombo. From thence it was to be transhipped to a Government transport for conveyance to England. The passage from Trincomalie to Colombo occupies about four days by sea, allowing for stoppages at the different ports. A supply of fowls was therefore sent on board for its food,
76 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
with directions that two were to be given daily. Amongst these birds was a bright little brownish-coloured speckly hen, which, like the others, was in due course put into the cage. This bird the leopard would not touch , although it did not hesitate to devour the rest of a dif- ferent colour. It took an extraordinary fancy to it, and would fondle and caress it all day, and, strange as it may appear, both remained together shut up in this cage on the most affectionate terms, all the way home. When, however, the leopard had to be transferred to another cage at Portsmouth for the journey to the Zoo, it thought, perhaps, that it might be separated from its little friend. At all events, it then killed and ate it.
Another peculiarity of the leopard is one for which natives as well as English sportsmen vouch. It is that if, when a head of cattle is killed, the animal chances to fall, so that its right (or liver) side is undermost, a leopard will make off and not return to devour it. The writer has seen practical evidence of this singular nature, and in such circumstances it is hardly worth while sitting over a kill of this kind, with a view of shooting the spoiler.
A leopard's power is prodigious, and with the greatest ease it is capable of springing with ordinary native cattle over a five-foot fence. One did so while I was camping one day close to a cattle kraal on the Velli plain, afterwards dragging its prey over two hundred yards to a stream before devouring it.
Leopards are frequently seen at waterholes on a moon- light night. The best shot is through or just behind the shoulder.
The Ceylon elk or sambur is the largest member of the deer group in Ceylon. The height of the buck varies ^from four to five feet and a little more at the withers. These sambur are of a uniform dark brown colour throughout, but some tend to exhibit yellowish
LEOPARD, DEER, JACKAL AND WILD BOAR 77
and greenish tinges. The under parts and inner surfaces of the limbs are lighter and more of a yellowish white. Externally they are characterized by coarse, wiry hair, which on the neck and throat of an adult male is much thicker and longer than that of a female. The massive spread of antlers with three tines have a characteristic rough external surface, and attain a length of about thirty-six inches, the span averaging somewhat the same. The brow tines are nearly of equal length and very formidable, the basal girth being about eight or nine inches.
A good specimen of a sambur may weigh from 450 to 550 Ibs. Its habits are nocturnal, feeding chiefly at night. It is often come across feeding during the morn- ing and evening in park-like glades, intersected by shady rivers, near lagoons, marshes and swamps in the low country. Its food is principally grass, but it also browses on young shoots and leaves of trees. It is seldom seen :n numbers, single stags and hinds being met with as a rule. A favourite resort is in the neighbourhood of old, secluded, dilapidated tanks. It also haunts the forests of the mountainous regions of Ceylon, where it is hunted for sport by mixed bred packs of hounds.
The chital or spotted deer (Cervus axis) is, perhaps, the handsomest member of its tribe, and most charac- teristic of all Indian mammals. The coat is of a reddish- brown colour. The body is marked with longitudinal lines of bright white spots. The head and neck are of a uniform brownish tint. A black line runs from the nape of the neck to the end of the tail. White prevails on the inside of the ears, chin, throat, and under parts of the body, as well as on the rump and under surface of the tail.
In certain parts of India these animals are larger than the species known in Ceylon. The latter stand from 2' 6" to 2' 8" at the withers. The antlers, which have
78 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
three tines on each, run to an average length of thirty inches. The span varies considerably, and may be anything between sixteen and twenty-eight inches, with girth above the burr of about five and a half inches. They are nocturnally inclined in their habits, although they may be found feeding in the early morning after sunrise, and again in the cool hours of the afternoon, seeking the deep shade of the jungle for repose during the heat of the day.
Like the elk, they graze and browse, feeding on grass and the young shoots and leaves of trees. In habit they are gregarious, and are to be seen in herds on the con- fines of large open plains and salt marshes in the low country. Their favourite haunts are also the shady glades on the margin of streams and lagoons, low scrub jungle, and long grass. A dreaded enemy is the leopard, and, when pursued by one, they seem to lose at once all idea of control over the management of their antlers. In headlong flight they will foul creepers and all else through which they pass. The writer has seen them, when thus pursued, suddenly emerge from the jungle in their fright, foaming at the mouth, with quantities of tangled masses of creepers about their horns trailing to the ground. These deer are good swimmers, and should they, by chance, come to a stream at such a time and swim over, a leopard will not follow them, but will give up the chase, so strongly does it object to wet its paws.
One thing perhaps strikes the observer in regard to this handsome spotted axis, and that is the somewhat heavy appearance of the body in proportion to the seemingly frail limbs that have to carry it.
The para or hog deer (C. porcinus) is a small animal with brownish-coloured fur, tinged with yellow and red. The under, parts, as in the spotted axis, are paler, and nearly white is the colour inside the ears and the under
LEOPARD, DEER, JACKAL AND WILD BOAR 79
surface of the tail. It stands about twenty-four inches at the withers, has comparatively short legs for its size, and is devoid of mane on neck and throat. The antlers seldom exceed nine or ten inches in length, are mounted on very long pendicles, and, after giving off the brow- tine, have nearly a straight beam, till the small terminal fork, the front of which is longer than the hind one.
As a rule, it is only met when alone, but now and again two may be seen together. It frequents the low grass jungles and bushy neighbourhoods bordering on large marshy plains, and is also seen at times in big jungles. It has not the graceful movement of the spotted deer, and takes its name from the hog-like manner of its gait in rushing with head down through long grass when alarmed.
As it is very apt to dart from under one's feet in tramp- ing through long grass, only giving one time for a snap shot, the smooth bore with a charge of No. 6 shot will be found handier to bring it down than a rifle.
The muntjac or barking deer (genus Cervulus) is a small animal, standing about twenty-one inches at the shoulder. It is of a deep chestnut colour, darker on the back and lighter below. The chin, upper part of the throat, and under portions of the body and tail are almost white. The face and limbs are brown, and a black line extends from the inner surface of the pendicles of the antlers some distance down the ribs of the face
The antlers are very small, only three or four inches in length, on pendicles of the same or even greater length. The brow-tine is short and directed upwards, while the tip of the undivided beam is more or less inclined in- wards. It has a wonderfully powerful voice for so small an animal. Its loud, resonant bark is remarkably clear and distinctive in the depths of the forest, and this it utters whenever disturbed by a strange sound or suspects the existence of danger. When once disturbed it may
80 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
continue barking at intervals for nearly an hour, making it easy for the sportsman to discover its whereabouts. It is a solitary creature, usually found singly, though sometimes in pairs. It has an odd way in running, somewhat like that of the hog deer, with head low and hind-quarters elevated.
The bucks are armed with two long projecting tusks in the upper jaw, which turn outwards in a peculiar way, and with these they can inflict a nasty wound.
The mouse deer or chevrotian (family Tragulida), an elegant little creature, is the smallest of the deer kind existing in Ceylon. It is about the size of a hare. Its height is only ten or twelve inches at the shoulder, and it weighs about five or six pounds. It is antlerless, but it is furnished with two sharp little tusks in the upper jaw, those of the male being more pronounced and pro- jecting below the mouth. In colour it is a variable shade of brown, minutely speckled with yellow, while its sides are spotted with pale buff on a brown ground, its legs and feet being the daintiest imaginable.
It is common in the low country, and usually lies concealed in the moderate long grass and brushwood of low scrub jungles, only venturing out to feed in the mornings and evenings. Although timid and shy, it is easily tamed, and will become very gentle when made a great pet. Its habitation is in the crevices of large boulders and rocks, in which it passes the day, and into which it retires on the approach of danger.
It is frequently put up on a morning's shoot, when one walks through the grass patenas and clearings that ordinarily give it cover. It is marvellous how quick can be its movements when suddenly surprised, but it is easily rolled over with a shot gun.
The Ceylon wild boar (S. crista'us) is similar to its Indian brethren, and abounds in the low country. It is to be met with in herds on the plains, marshes, in low
LEOPARD, DEER, JACKAL AND WILD BOAR 81
grass jungles, and almost everywhere where swampy ground exists. The beds of old tanks are its favourite haunts, and much difficulty is experienced by the native cultivators in keeping it clear of their paddy fields, where it often creates great havoc amongst the crops.
The boar stands about thirty to forty inches at the shoulder, is of a dark grey and brownish colour, with a somewhat thin but wiry coat of hair over the body, and a crest or mane of long black bristles running from the nape of the neck and along the back. It is furnished with tusks in the upper and lower jaws, and those of the lower jaw project about three inches, and are kept as sharp as razors by wear against the upper set. These tusks form exceedingly formidable weapons, and are capable of creating the most diabolical wounds. The lower tusk of a fine boar, when extracted from the jaw, measures about eight or nine inches, and cases are known where they have considerably exceeded this length.
A great characteristic is its habit of rooting, i.e. turning up the ground with its snout in search of food, such as wild yams and underground nuts, and these earth dis- turbances serve as indications of its proximity. It has been known also to feed on the carcases of animals. During the day it reposes in any convenient cover, such as long grass, the secluded and dryish parts of mangrove swamps, low jungle and forests. It is somewhat nocturnal in its habits, but may often be seen feeding in the mornings and evenings.
A full-grown boar is a formidable-looking brute, and, when angered, is about the boldest and fiercest of any animal. It is a perfect fiend to look at, and it is therefore advisable to be very cautious in approaching a wounded animal. It is wonderfully tenacious of life, and takes a lot of killing, unless one is fortunate enough to hit it in the right place.
The following amusing incident will give an idea of
6
82 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
its daring and tenacity of life. In the neighbourhood of Terayai, about twenty-nine miles north of Trincomalie, on the coast road, there are some extensive sandy plains. On and near the borders of these plains are mangrove swamps, low jungle and shady green swards, an ideal and favourite shooting ground for small game. One day when in this locality on a deer shoot, in company with an old friend, a somewhat portly but keen sportsman, a Mr. O. D., I chanced to see a herd of pig, in a line, crossing a plain about 200 yards off. Amongst them was a fine boar, at which I took a steady shot, making it jump.
Instead of falling as expected, it recovered itself and bolted with the others back to the jungle. In doubt as to whether it was hit, we walked to the spot with a view of tracing possible blood tracks. These we found, and, while deliberating on the action we intended taking, with our two gun-bearers standing by, my attention was drawn to a boar, evidently the wounded one, about 150 yards off, making straight in our direction. When it got fairly close I fired, rolling it over, but getting up almost immediately, it charged as before. Giving it another shot, it fell again, and before I could reload it had again got up and renewed its attack, selecting myself as the object of his vengeance.
While this was taking place I had wandered some little distance away from the group, round whom I found myself making a rapid circular movement, with the boar after me, only stopping to put in a shot when chance offered. The grotesqueness of the scene caused my portly friend a convulsion of laughter, at the same time calling upon me to stop or he would die. I exclaimed, " If I do, so shall I ! "
Fortunately, the pig eventually fell exhausted. On examining the carcase we discovered that no fewer than nine bullets had gone into it. It seemed to bear a
LEOPARD, DEER, JACKAL AND WILD BOAR 83
charmed life — not one shot hitting a vital spot. Perhaps this was not to be wondered at, in view of the unique and awkward position in which the retreating sportsman had been placed.
The jackal (Canis aureus) is also found in Ceylon, and if there be anything likely to startle the sportsman on his first acquaintance with camp life in the Ceylon jungle, it is the peculiar, unearthly, blood-curdling cry of a pack of jackals, which may be heard any time between sundown and sunrise. This cry may be de- scribed as consisting of two parts, the first a long wailing howl, three or four times repeated, each note a little higher than the preceding ; and then a succession of three quick yelps, also repeated two or three times.
The jackal abounds everywhere. Although nocturnal in its habits, it does not confine itself in its wanderings to the night, but may be seen prowling about frequently during the day, especially when anything dead is lying about. It is a small animal in itself, and, from a casual glance at a distance, it, by its colour, shape of the head, body and bushy brown, black-tipped tail, gives one the idea that it may be a leggy fox.
As to size, its length, including head and tail, is about three feet three inches. It stands at the shoulder from sixteen to twenty inches. It is a great scavenger, eating any carrion it may come across, also the flesh of small game which it kills. It will also eat the inside of green cocoanuts, maize, fruit, etc. Its sense of smell is marvel- lous, and it is astonishing how quickly it appears on the scene after an animal has been shot. No doubt it smells the scent of blood at a great distance.
The author one morning dropped a fine bull buffalo on an open plain, a quarter of a mile from any cover. There was no sign of any living animal about which might do it harm, and, thinking it perfectly safe, he left it. He returned to camp about three-quarters of a mile
84 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
distant, with a view of sending out coolies later on to bring in the head and other trophies, and although hardly an hour had elapsed, the coolies, on arrival, found it surrounded by jackals, who had commenced devouring it, spoiling the head by eating off one of the ears. As it was a fine head, I had it set up and the ear replaced by one from another buffalo, which was uncommonly well done by Messrs. Lazurus and Son, taxidermists, of Colombo. Jackal skins when in good condition make very good rugs.
The Ceylon jungle cock is numerous in the low country in the neighbourhood of woods, park-like glades, and scrub jungle. The male birds have very handsome plumage, with showy comb and wattle of rich cadmium yellow, fringed with carmine. The hens are also prettily marked, somewhat resembling in size and colour ordinary pheasants. They are very game and lie close, and it requires some good shooting to bring them down.
The cock bird has a peculiar and distinctive shrill crow, sounding like the cry of " John Joyce ! " It is most pugnacious, and armed with very formidable long, sharp-pointed spurs, will fight to the death. In fact, it is so ready to accept a challenge that it is ludicrous to see the easy way it can be drawn towards one, from its seclusion in the jungle, by a few smart raps in succession on the thigh, imitating the flapping of another bird's wings, which it usually does prior to crowing.
The writer has under cover of a thick bush drawn them from a considerable distance in this way, repeating the operation at intervals. On one occasion he was so successful as to cause the bird to actually run between his legs.
The Ceylon dugong is an extraordinary and interest- ing animal which is often seen on the coast It is plenti- ful in and about the Gulf of Manaar, and resembles some- what a huge, thickly-made, bluff- headed seal. The
LEOPARD, DEER, JACKAL AND WILD BOAR 85
female has a very uncommon way of carrying her young by one of her powerful flippers, while swimming with the other, and also suckles it holding it to her breast by the same means.
It is frequently caught in the large shallow lagoons near Trincomalie, where it enters the narrow mouths at high water in search of a certain kind of food of which it is very fond, and where it gets stranded by the receding tide, when it is easily captured.
The flesh is good eating, resembling fine corned-beef.
This is what Sir Emerson Tennent says in his " Natural History of Ceylon " regarding this marvellous creature :
" One of the most remarkable animals on the coast is the dugong, a phytophagous cetacean, numbers of which are attracted to the inlets, from the bay of Calpen- tyn to Adam's bridge, by the still water and the abund- ance of marine algae in these parts of the Gulf (Manaar) .
' The rude approach to the human outline, observed in the head of this creature, and the attitude of the mother while suckling her young, holding it to her breast with one flipper, while swimming with the other, holding the heads of both above water, and, when dis- turbed, suddenly diving and displaying her fish-like tail — these, together with her habitual demonstrations of strong maternal affection, probably gave rise to the fable of the ' Mermaid/ and thus that earliest invention of mythical physiology may be traced to the Arab sea- men and the Greeks, who had watched the movements of the dugong in the waters of Manaar."
CHAPTER VI THE CEYLON ELEPHANT IN THE JUNGLE
THE Lord Paramount of the Ceylon forests is the Ceylon or Indian elephant (Eliphas Indicus) . He may be met with singly and in herds in almost every district where woods afford shelter and shade during the heat of the day, from whence he emerges in the cool of the evening to roam about in the neigh- bourhood of grass plains, rivers, park-like pastures, and old dilapidated tanks, retiring into the seclusion of the forests again about nine or ten o'clock in the morning.
Herds numbering ten to thirty and even more are frequently come across, the adults averaging from about eight to nine feet in height. Solitary elephants are, as a rule, higher. Their habits are herbiforous, feeding on leaves, shoots of trees, bark from young stems, grass and other herbage, including wild fruits, such as wood apples and plantains.
Ceylon elephants differ in shape and appearance from the African species. The head is larger and ears smaller, and they are not furnished with such massive tusks. (Drawings of the skull showing the position of the brain, with other particulars, are given in another chapter on Elephant Shooting.)
The highest point of the Indian elephant is the centre of the back, whereas in the African elephant the highest point is at the withers, gradually sloping down to the
86
THE CEYLON ELEPHANT IN THE JUNGLE 87
tail. The Ceylon elephant, as a rule, does not possess tusks, but is furnished with stunted ivories, termed " tushes," of a uniform shape throughout, varying
XTrf
¥
mm
THE INDIAN ELEPHANT
from fifteen to twenty-four inches in length, and from one and a half to two and a half inches in diameter.
Tuskers, although scarce in Ceylon, are, nevertheless, now and again met with, and specimens have been secured by the author and his sporting acquaintances at different times. The tusks of those that have been shot are small, and could not in any way compare with the enormous tusks of the African elephant. The age attained by the Indian elephant is not accurately known, but it is generally computed at anything between 100 and 150 years.
88 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
The female has generally only one calf at a birth, twins being rare. The ordinary period of gestation is about twenty months. She has a single pair of teats between the fore legs, from which the new-born suckles its parent by its mouth — not by the trunk, as might be supposed.
Herd elephants generally, from the writer's experience, are not, in their natural state, viciously inclined, being more likely to bolt than attack, but nevertheless are uncertain in temper and not to be trusted. Females with young are always dangerous, as are males during the rutting season, when they are subject to fits of madness, known by the terms " mudda " or " must."
They have a wonderful gift of hearing, also an acute sense of smell, but are timid. The snapping of a brittle piece of dead wood is sufficient to make a whole herd stampede, during the confusion of which it is marvellous how quickly they can shoulder and carry off their calves. Kneeling down with shoulders touching, two adults will, in the course of a few seconds, pick up and place a little one in the hollow formed between their two backs. Then rising with it in this position of safety, they again join in the general rush. Although at the time there may be tremendous crashing, breaking of timber and other startling noises, a minute or so later no sound is heard. The elephants are probably still fleeing through the jungle, but recovered from their fright. This shows not only how speedily they form up in order again, but how quietly they travel.
Another wonderful provision of nature by which these animals are gifted is the peculiar formation of the knee- joint of the hind leg, which enables them to kneel and adjust the weight of the hind quarters, which would otherwise overbalance and force them headlong forward when descending steep declivities.
On coming to the brink of a river where the bank may
THE CEYLON ELEPHANT IN THE JUNGLE 89
have an abrupt fall of ten or twelve feet, one or two of the largest of the herd, as a rule, kneel down, and with their fore feet and prodigious strength combined, push and force the earth down before them, making a firm and gradual slope. In this position, almost sliding, they work their way to the water, the others following in their wake. They are quite at home in water, and expert swimmers.
•--; X&HI-- •'•C;« tijfi^f; i £K p£Hfe2 :
ELEPHANT DESCENDING A DECLIVITY
It is a curious sight to see them sometimes in headlong flight crossing a deep river, their bodies completely immersed, with only a number of grotesque-looking trunks elevated in fantastic forms, like so many gigantic leeches, above the surface of the water. What has struck the writer as very remarkable on some of his tracking expeditions are the extraordinary and seemingly
90 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
impossible places elephants manage to get through when on the march. Amongst other apparent impossi- bilities are the wedge shape openings now and again met with between large masses of rock. Here the narrowness of the footway may make it even difficult for a man to walk, and impossible for an elephant to plant a foot on the level, yet herds will pass through such openings in a marvellously quick and easy manner.
They have an interesting system of tracks through the jungles, leading from one place to another. These are closely adhered to, and regularly made use of year after year. They remind one a good deal of rabbit runs on a gigantic scale, but the outlets are generally nothing more than a hole through the bushes, which is somewhat difficult at times for the sportsman to get through. During heavy showers they cannot (like most other game in the country) stand the constant and irritating drip, drip of raindrops, falling on their bodies from leaves of trees overhead, in the shelter of the jungle. At such times during the rainy season they therefore clear out of the woods and are seen moving about in the open.
Great heat and glare they also dislike and avoid. As a consequence, during the dry season and when the sun is at its full power, they spend most of the day in the cool and shady depths of the forest, devoting the night only to roaming about feeding and bathing. The bathing they delight in ; so much so, that they may be seen in quiet retreats indulging in the luxury all hours of the day, no doubt for the sake of coolness and to rid themselves from the annoyance of flies and other insects which they detest. Mosquitoes especially are perfect terrors to them, settling down on their bodies in clouds and causing the greatest discomfort. Instances are known where elephants have been driven out of districts through the constant worry caused by these pests. The hide of an elephant, which, from a casual glance, appears hard,
THE CEYLON ELEPHANT IN THE JUNGLE 91
thick, and proof against such mites, is really, when clean and fresh from a bath, most flexible, soft and sensitive, and is as capable of feeling the irritating sting of a mos- quito (" kosu," as they are termed) as a human being.
A curious incident in connection with mosquitoes occurred one day when the author with his tracker were on the look-out for a solitary or rogue elephant. We stood in a pool of stagnant, green, slimy water, in a clear- ing near the edge of the jungle, alive with mosquitoes, waiting for the rogue to appear, when suddenly the tracker raised his finger in an enquiring and warning manner, at the same time exclaiming, " Durai (Master), Anei ! Anei ! (Elephant ! Elephant !), listen ! "
Sure enough, a sound like that of the distant screaming of an elephant could be aintly heard, and in a few minutes the peculiar sound was heard again. This time, to our astonishment, we found it emanated from clouds of mosquitoes that were being disturbed by our move- ments in the muddy and stagnant water. They gave a most wonderful resemblance to the cries made by elephants at a great distance. The mosquito makes a peculiar sharp little singing noise on the w ng, and when thousands are doing this at the same time there is no mistaking their presence, independent of their bites. It may be added the anei never appeared on the scene, and as we were informed afterwards by a native herds- man living in the locality, it had been driven away by these pests.
Another interesting and characteristic feature of the elephant is its trunk, " thumbikei," as it is called. It is one of the most delicate, sensitive and important parts of its body, its organ of touch and smell, and the sole means by which it conveys food to its mouth. It is put to a multitude of other uses indispensable to daily necessities, and without it an elephant would be helpless and unable to exist. Therefore, to injure it so as to
92 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON r:
render it useless in its functions, would mean the animal's death. As an instance of the effect of such an injury being inflicted, the author gives the following story as told him by the headman of a village he once passed through, where an elephant had been recently killed by a cut on the trunk from a katti or heavy native knife.
An old Tamil man with his little boy were one dark night watching some paddy or rice fields, with the object of driving off wild pig and other animals that frequent these places at such times and destroy the crops. They had a shelter composed of a small mud hut, roofed over with cadjans (cocoanut leaves), and a square hole in the wall answered the purpose of a window. In this retreat they had laid down to rest, after firing off the usual blank charge from a rusty gun to alarm such marauders that might be lurking in the neighbourhood.
Some little time after the man was aroused from his slumbers by feeling something cold and snake-like moving over his body. He grasped his katti (knife), which lay by his side, and made vigorous slashes at it, the snake or whatever it was immediately clearing off. On getting a light he found a quantity of blood about, the floor, but no snake. A day or so later the dead body of an elephant was discovered some few miles away, with the end of its trunk nearly severed, having bled to death from the wound. From the tracks left behind, there was no doubt but what this an:mal had visited the hut, and, out of curiosity, had put its trunk through the hole in the wall on the night in question, receiving the severe cut in the trunk which ended in its death.
A Parsee gentleman, whom the writer made the acquaintance of in Trincomalie shortly afterwards, in- formed him that there was a certain caste of native elephant hunters in India who made a business of killing elephants in this brutal manner for the sake of securing their tusks. It was an undertaking accompanied by
SINNACOOTY, ALLAH PITCHEI, SINNATAMBY
ELEPHANT TRACKERS
THE CEYLON ELEPHANT IN THE JUNGLE 95
great risks ; but armed only with a long spear and Indian knife, these intrepid hunters in deep jungle stealthily crept up until quite close to the animal. Gently touch- ing a convenient part of its body with the point of the spear, they caused it to turn its trunk in that direction, when immediate advantage was taken to slash it with the knife, in an endeavour to cut off the end. This rendered the animal helpless, and generally proved fatal from loss of blood. The hunters then followed the beast in its tracks until it died.
Trackers take an important part in the different shooting sketches which follow, so the author introduces them to his readers by their portraits on page 93. They are all well-known Moor shikaris, and hail from the village of Tepore, near Kottiar, Trincomalie.
The centre figure, Allah Pitchei, whose name appears oftener than the others, is a well-known character, so a few words concerning him may- perhaps be of interest. A splendid specimen of a native, well built, full of vigour and pluck, one who knew no fear, he would think nothing of going up to an elephant and giving it a slap on the hind quarters, with a view to turning it, so as to give the shikari a better shot — i.e. if he had reliance in him. He was as " wiry as they are made," of great personality, and a favourite with most sportsmen. He was con- sidered in his time the best and most reliable tracker in the Island, and many an elephant and other head of game have fallen to the writer's gun through his marvel- lous and clever knowledge of tracking. As he was nearly always with him on his shooting expeditions, he knew him well, and looked upon him in the light of a friend as well as that of a native shikari.
The poor fellow died from elephantiasis some few years ago, of which his swollen foot tells a tale, and may be noticeable in the picture. Many interesting stories can be told of Allah Pitchei. Thus it may be mentioned
96 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
that, owing to his wonderful ability, he was the tracker selected to accompany the late King (when Prince of Wales) on an elephant shoot, during his visit to Ceylon in the latter part of the seventies.
The pay of these elephant trackers ranges from one or two rupees .per diem according to their abilities. A present is added of a few rupees if the sportsman is brought up to an elephant, but a better present is given if the elephant is bagged.
Tracking, of course, is the most important part of a native tracker's duty, and marvellous is the manner in which a good man will lead the way almost at a trot through all the different kinds of jungle. He will keep the track with that inborn self-confidence and instinct peculiar to the native shikari who understands his busi- ness, when, to the uninitiated, even after most careful observation, there appears nothing to show that the animal has recently passed over the same ground.
So small a thing as a leaf turned the wrong way, the inclination of bushes, a stone freshly turned up on the path, a slight scratch or nail mark, a little sand kicked up, a freshly broken twig or bit of stick, even blades of grass trodden down, are things never lost sight of. Indeed, they are detected at a glance by the quick and trained eye of the native tracker. Another important thing he takes notice of are the droppings of an elephant, for from their appearance and condition at different stages of the track, the proximity of the animal may be known. So experienced are these native trackers in this matter, that by touching the spoor now and again by the foot they are able to tell the time within a few minutes when the animal passed the spot, and its probable distance from the party at that moment.
When the tracking becomes confused and the foot- prints mixed up, they say that the elephant evidently has hesitated there and is very probably close by, making
THE CEYLON ELEPHANT IN THE JUNGLE 97
arrangements for a siesta. It is as well then to stop and listen, for it may be possible to hear some indication of his presence — for instance, the noise caused by the flap of an ear, movement of the tail, breathing, rustling of leaves, the report of a tree falling. Perhaps he is sleeping and snoring heavily. If so, that can be heard some distance away in the stillness of the jungle. Then the little muslin bag of wood ashes comes in useful. A flick of its contents will give the direction of the air, and enable one to further approach the beast without giving the wind. In this manner, i careful, one may gradually creep up to within a few yards and get a good shot.
If the elephant be passing through water at any time, be careful when following not to move or make a noise, unless the animal is also on the move. Should it stop, wait until it is heard moving on again, when its noise will deaden that of its pursuer. On his leaving the water, which may be fairly surmised when the sound of its movements has ceased, remain perfectly still for a while. Then cautiously proceed again, keeping a good look out on either side, in case he may have turned off at right angles, and be returning parallel to his own tracks. This they have been known to do at times, when some noise or other behind has disturbed them, making them suspicious and crafty. It is then wise to be on the alert in the event of coming trouble.
CHAPTER VII PLEASURES OF ELEPHANT SHOOTING
OF all big game sport in Ceylon, elephant shooting is par excellence the grandest, carrying with it an indescribable charm peculiar to itself. I refer, of course, only to the hunting of such as are
AN EXCITING MOMENT
termed " rogues " or solitary elephants, where a spice of danger is thrown in.
These " rogues " are so termed because they are outcasts of their kind. In most cases they have been
98
PLEASURES OF ELEPHANT SHOOTING 101
beaten in conflicts with other male elephants for supremacy of the herd, a contest which ends frequently in the vanquished one having its tail bitten off. It then leaves the herd, lives a solitary life, and becomes morose, ill- tempered and dangerous.
The tracking of one of these animals is there fore exciting, as well as agreeably entertaining, for it imparts that delightful feeling of knowing one is being led through a splendid sporting country, with many interesting varieties of jungle, from long grass of the p'ains to low scrub, mangrove swamps, clearings and fine majestic forests, where game of all kinds may be met with and tropical vegetation seen in all its natural luxuriance and grandeur.
Amongst other many striking peculiarities in the jungle one cannot help noticing the quaint formations of the majestic forest trees, with their gnarled and twisted trunks, tangled masses of snaky - looking roots, and strings of long ropy offshoots. Giant creepers with extraordinary spiral stems climb to a great height, their prolific foliage covering everything they come in contact with, only to fall in graceful festoons to the ground, where they afford agreeable cool retreats. There are also tree ferns and other arresting specimens of tropical botanical life, too numerous to mention, but which par- ticularly attract and interest the eye.
The tracking may also carry one through open country, up the beds of dry rivers and streams, and over rock formations, all of which form an interesting variety of scene. This, together with the joyous freedom of camp life, the early cup of tea, the preparations before starting, the refreshing coolness of the morning air, the awakening of bird life at sunrise with all their different calls and warblings, the hum and buzz of myriads of insects, with the distant " whoo whoop " of the wanderoo and chattering of other monkeys, denote the dawn of day.
102
JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
Combined with the sweet fragrance of scented flowering trees and shrubs, and of the jungle surroundings, the exhilaration and interest excited by the anticipation of sport, and the likelihood of coming across all kinds of game on the early morning tramp, they constitute a life enchanting beyond description.
ELEPHANT SKULL
PROFILE
Before venturing upon an expedition of this kind, which perhaps may be attended with more risk than that of the generality of smaller game, an idea as to where the most sure and telling shots should be placed may be useful. Two anatomical sketches of the skull, front and profile, are therefore given with a view of
PLEASURES OF ELEPHANT SHOOTING 103
showing sportsmen the position of the brain, which should be studied, the brain being the only recognised vital spot to aim for in the Indian elephant. To shoot it in any other part of the body is not only considered unsportsmanlike, but the chances are that that would only enrage without stopping the animal, causing a
ELEPHANT SKULL
FRONT VIEW
nasty wound of which the poor beast may ultimately linger for some considerable time, and die in agony in the depths of the jungle. There are four shots :—
ist. The front, for cavity in centre of bump in fore- head between eyes.
2nd. The temple, between the eye and the ear.
104 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
3rd. The ear, at right angles.
4th. One behind the ear.
All of these if well directed will reach the brain and be effective.
I also add these hints :—
To avoid accidents, never carry the gun at full cock through jungle, unless in the near presence of the quarry.
Do not attempt to approach an elephant unless the wind is blowing from it in your direction.
Make as little noise as possible when tracking up, and avoid treading on dead and brittle pieces of wood in your path.
Speak always in an undertone or by signs.
Don't have anything about your dress of a conspicuous nature.
See that your gun is carefully loaded, and that you have spare cartridges about you handy, as well as a cartridge extractor.
When on the track of an elephant one must give up all idea of shooting other game, however tempting.
Don't shoot baby or cow elephants.
The elephant has a wonderful power of scent and hearing, but its eyes are small, and the sight is accord- ingly poor. Remember, therefore, should the animal make for one at any time, always run " down wind," taking advantage of dodging behind trunks of trees to avoid it.
Twice round the circumference of the forefoot, taken at the largest part, gives a fair average of the elephant's height.
A reward is generally offered by the Ceylon Govern- ment for the killing of rogue elephants, and is usually advertised in the Gazette ; in such cases no licence is required.
Do not forget to carry the little muslin bag of wood
PLEASURES OF ELEPHANT SHOOTING 107
ashes for giving direction of wind, referred to in the section on Miscellaneous Shooting.
With this information, a military friend (Captain T.) and I make preparations for a trip, packing up all neces- sary gear, including guns, ammunition and provisions for about two to three weeks, but keeping the different packages within the coolie load. We then engage a sufficient number of native bearers at from thirty-seven and a half to fifty cents per day, and hire a large canoe from the inner harbour, at a cost of three or four rupees for the whole boat, giving the tulikan (coxswain) direc- tions to be at the Kachcherri pierLy 5.30 next morning for conveyance over to Kottiar. Elephants have been reported troublesome on that side of the water between Topore and Velli.
Rising early, we superintend the transport and ship- ment of the stores and coolies, the latter arranging themselves forward in the hold of the canoe, after which my companion and myself step on board. The sail is then hoisted and we are under way with a fine breeze blowing aft, soon passing Round Island Lighthouse, leaving Trincomalie in the distance, and landing in another half-hour at Kottiar, after a delightful crossing of eight miles in one and a quarter hours. The rest house is close by, where our cook and boys are soon busy with culinary duties and preparing breakfast. The ponies and horsekeepers, we are glad to find, have also arrived, having come overland.
Breakfast over, the coolies are given their loads and make a move towards Topore, six miles distant. We follow on the ponies later, engaging in the village two bullock carts, in which we can take shelter from the sun if so in- clined. The " hold-alls " (see appendix) now prove useful, fixed to the framework of the carts inside, and are already more or less filled with useful articles. The country through which we pass is very pretty and interesting,
108
JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
alive with bird-life, but the roads are bad. Eventually we hear native dogs barking in the distance, and a few minutes later enter the village of Topore, which lies in the midst of cocoanut trees. Our arrival and business appear to have been previously known, for upon fetch- ing up at the P.W.D. bungalow, several native shikari men are waiting to offer their services. We engage
TYPICAL KOTTIAR BULLOCK CARTS
two — Allah Pitchei, the well-known intrepid tracker, and another, one Sinnacooty, both Moors, sending them off at once to gain the latest information as to the where- abouts of the elephants.
Topore supplies a very convenient snug bungalow, prettily situated, overlooking a picturesque portion of Allai Tank. The water comes close to the garden fence, and teems with waterfowl of many different kinds, besides being plentifully stocked with crocodiles and
PLEASURES OF ELEPHANT SHOOTING 111
freshwater fish. It has a good compound, containing rough stabling, bathroom, and other conveniences. A quite agreeable pastime on a moonlight night is to sit in this compound with a cigar after dinner and shoot whistling teal, as they pass overhead. Elephants are generally to be found on the borders of this tank, and other game also abounds in the neighbourhood.
Having refreshed ourselves with some tiffin, my friend and myself take long chairs in the shade and coolness of the verandah, where we recline at our ease. Whilst we are in a somewhat pleasant dreamy state of meditation, due possibly to early rising, sea air, warmth, and the tranquil surroundings, the trackers turn up. They inform us that the elephants were busy round the tank two days before, but had since moved on in the direction of Velli. We therefore decide, as it is now somewhat late, to follow them early next morning, and accordingly put our guns in order, as their services may possibly be required on the road. In reference to this subject I would like to mention that I have great belief in the following method of loading the heavy rifle for elephant shooting : to place a steel-pointed conical bullet in the right barrel and a spherical bullet in the left. As a rule, one has, on the first shot, when the animal is standing steady, more time to take aim, and the steel-pointed bullet is then better for penetra- tion and more likely to drive home, if not diverted from its course by stems and branches of trees that may lie in the line of sight. In the event of a miss and the animal charging, the spherical bullet will then be found more dependable, as it has a more crashing and stopping effect, and is also not so easily turned aside. The smooth bores as second guns should be supplied with ball car- tridges, and capable of taking a fairly heavy charge of powder, say, four and a half to five drachms.
At daybreak next morning we pack up once more
112
JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
and start the coolies and others to " Putur," a small native village six miles off, through which we have to pass. Here we intend to stop for breakfast, afterwards continuing our journey for another ten or eleven miles to Velli, the latter part of the track being through dense jungle. The travelling is slow, owing to the bad state of the road or track, with its cumbrous roots, fallen trees, and other obstructions which lie across the path
NEAR THE SPILL, ALLAI TANK
to impede progress ; the axe is in constant requisition to clear the way for the carts.
Fresh spoor of elephants are now very noticeable. Newly felled trees and broken branches strew the ground in all directions, and other indications testify to the recent presence of a herd. Following these tracks for a few miles we eventually emerge from the dull mono- tony of the forest, and Velli is before us, an extensive open plain, with tame buffaloes and native cattle quietly
PLEASURES OF ELEPHANT SHOOTING 115
grazing near their kraals. This is a bright picture and welcome change of scene.
We find a good camping ground under the shade of some trees in the vicinity of water, and the tents are pitched, beds and tables are fixed, and things are made to look a bit ship-shape and comfortable. In the mean- time the cook is busy warming up something for lunch, while the trackers and coolies are looking to their rice and curry. This over, our native shikaris start off
A CORNER OF ALLAI TANK, TOPORE
to hunt up tracks, and we with our shot-guns have a look round also with an eye to bagging something for the table.
Shortly after our return to camp, Allah Pitchei arrives, and reports having discovered the whereabouts of the herd, and also, in another direction, the footprints of a periya alien (large solitary elephant). The latter animal is what we want, and so we decide to follow it
116 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
up first thing in the morning, as it is now too late in the day, and the light fast failing. For the want of some- thing better to do, we light a pipe and sit in the open,
A CAMP, VELLI PLAIN
chatting, and enjoying the cool evening breezes, listen- ing to the calls and warblings of the feathered tribe, which are now and again drowned by the howling and shrieking of jackals on the prowl, the distant low hunting " whoop ! " of the leopard, and the barking of deer.
After watching for a time the brilliant effects of the glorious setting sun, we tub, dine, and turn in. In the middle of our slumbers we are awakened by Allah Pitchei entering our tent and excitedly exclaiming, in a subdued voice, " Master ! Anei ! Anei ! (Elephant ! Elephant !)." Getting up at once, we go outside. It's a beautiful clear moonlight night, and everything appears as bright as day. " Where's the anei ? " I ask. He points to a dark object in the distance, which might be taken for a clump of bushes or anything else. We watch it for some time. It appears quite motionless, and yet
PLEASURES OF ELEPHANT SHOOTING 119
we can distinctly hear it busy pulling up and feeding off the long grass. It gradually gets more indistinct, as it moves away, and then disappears from view. Noting the direction it has taken, we again turn in and sleep uninterruptedly until four o'clock.
Rising early, the camp is soon astir. We plunge our heads into cold water "as an eye-opener," and after partaking of early tea, see to our guns and pack up some refreshments in the haversack, which, together with the rifles, are handed to the trackers and coolie to carry. We then mount our horses and make a move in the direc- tion where the alien or solitary elephant was seen over night.
We find the cool morning air, combined with the fresh sweet smell of vegetation, delightfully exhilarating. Quickly we pick up the tracks, which take us some two miles across the plain, now white with heavy dew, when we enter thick jungle. Dismounting, we send the horses back to camp, and do the rest of the tracking on foot.
It is now absolutely necessary to go quietly. All talking ceases, as, should the elephant by any chance catch the sound of the human voice, or any foreign noise, such, for instance, as may be caused by the clink- ing of bottles or gun barrels together, it might possibly become alarmed and make off and not stop again for many miles.
Allah Pitchei is on ahead, I follow next with my companion, while Sinnacooty and a coolie are behind. In this Indian file formation we move on the track for some little time, going through varied kinds of jungle. So far it has been fairly easy work, thanks to recent rains making the spoor clear. Now we are passing through a piece of open jungle with fine trees, some- what park-like in appearance, with pretty velvety green swards here and there. A few " did he do it " plover, with their shrill, alarming cry, are hovering round, while
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a herd of chital a little way off are suddenly startled, and make a bolt for cover, disappearing in the under- growth. Several peafowl are seen strutting about, and a hare is also put up making a hasty retreat, soon followed by another.
The tracks nowr lead us again into deep, heavy jungle, with its interesting botanical curiosities, through which
ALLAH PITCHEI IN HUNTING RIG
we trudge along, keeping a good look-out, and listening for any sound that may denote the presence of our quarry. The spoor, owing to the thick undergrowth, is for the present lost, but Allah Pitchei still keeps to the tracks by other indications, such as the inclination of shrubs, bushes, or a fresh broken branch, and by good luck we get on them again. They appear quite fresh,
PLEASURES OF ELEPHANT SHOOTING 123
and the second tracker touches the droppings with his foot, listens a moment, and with a self-satisfied smile quickly hands my companion his rifle.
I am carrying mine, and the hunt is becoming exciting, as the anei is apparently very near. Making sure the guns are properly loaded, we cautiously advance, keep- ing eyes and ears open. A slight movement ahead amongst the bushes is heard. We listen with bated breath. There is a rush and crash through the jungle on our left, with much rustling and breaking of under- growth.
" Anei ! Anei ! " says Sinnacooty excitedly, but in another moment or so all is quiet again. After waiting a little time, we cautiously advance in the direc- tion from whence the disturbance came, and discover tracks showing that that had been a false alarm, due to the sudden bolting of a wild buffalo frightened at our approach. We have to be thankful, as had it been the anei things might not have gone so well, for we were in rather a tight corner, unable to see but a few yards ahead on account of the density of the foliage, and had no decent tree handy to dodge behind in case of a charge.
We continue the tracking, which now leads us through a large clearing of long grass, scrub, and open glades, coming suddenly upon two fine sambur stags, with antlers interlocked, testing their strength. A little further away may be seen a sounder of pig, busy root- ing, all very tempting, but we must not fire, as it would destroy the object of our shoot. Entering some fine open forest a little later, we hear a tree go down with the report of a cannon.
" Anei ! Anei ! " says Allah Pitchei, with a knowing smile. He seldom makes a mistake. It is beginning to get exciting. A few minutes' tramp brings us to a mangrove swamp, with innumerable aerial roots stand- ing clear of the water. The spoor here is very distinct,
124 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
giving one a good idea of the size and close proximity of the quarry. Its immense foot impressions have sunk deep in the mud, with dirty, frothy water still running into them. This and recent fresh droppings show that the elephant had but a few minutes before passed over.
A noise as of something passing through water is now heard in front. Allah Pitchei, who has been listening intently, turns round, finger raised, and with rather a troubled expression on his face, whispers in my ear, " Anei ! " It is evidently on the move, so we carefully wade through this swamp, stopping to listen every now and again. The sound of disturbed water ahead gets more distinct, and enables us to proceed at a brisker rate, the animal making sufficient noise to drown ours. Suddenly it ceases.
Waiting a little while, we hear the cracking of under- growth. The elephant has now evidently left the swamp, and is moving on dry ground, so we proceed, making our way through the water as quietly as possible. In a short time we are out of it, but nothing can now be seen or heard of the elephant's movements. Allah Pitchei seems much puzzled, and thinks perhaps it may have winded us, and is somewhere ahead lying in wait, listening. After resting a bit, we move on again, looking well about us. Getting out my muslin bag of wood ashes, I give it a flick. There is very little air, but what there is appears to be in our favour.
We know the anei cannot now be far off, and Allah Pitchei in front seems to be extra cautious, peering into the jungle right and left, now and again stooping and crouching low down to look under the dense foliage. We are doing much the same. It is hot work and getting intensely exciting, when lo ! and behold ! to our con- sternation, without warning, the brute suddenly breaks through the jungle, and makes a charge straight for us
PLEASURES OF ELEPHANT SHOOTING 127
unexpectedly from the right, where it had evidently been lurking.
Coming on like a huge locomotive, I could see its mas- sive head, with curled-up trunk and savage-looking little eyes, towering above the bushes, quite close. Taking quick aim just over the eye, I fired, and then all was at once strangely still. Getting quickly through the smoke, I found the elephant down, in a kneeling position. Going up close, I gave it another shot through the centre of the forehead. This I afterwards discovered was unneces- sary, as the first bullet had gone clean through the brain, killing and dropping it on the spot, within a dozen paces from where I stood.
" That was a near thing, T. ! " said I to my friend as he appeared on the scene.
" A mighty close shave," said he ; " from my position I was unable to fire ! But your shot was indeed splendid and a marvellously lucky one."
It was a fine bull, measuring from the centre of the back 10' 5", and the circumference of fore feet 6iJ". It proved a grand wind-up to a somewhat long but very pleasant morning's tracking of four and a half hours, so, hailing the coolie (Muttiah) with the refreshments, we have a well-earnt and refreshing w. and s. and some- thing to satisfy the cravings of the " inner man," after- wards enjoying a pipe discussing interesting incidents in connection with the capture of the quarry now lying in view before us.
CHAPTER VIII THE RETURN TO CAMP
BEFORE returning to camp, I take the tail, and point out to the trackers other parts of the elephant to be brought in, for curing and setting up as trophies. We then commence the return journey, retracing our steps as nearly as possible. As we are not now likely to meet more elephants, we carry shot-guns, putting a ball in right and a No. 6 cartridge in the left barrel, for a chance of bagging something for the table.
After making our way for a mile or so through pretty thick bush and nearing some open ground, a most un- pleasant smell arises. It is so bad that we have to put our handkerchiefs to our noses. Allah Pitchei, who is the first to detect the cause, says with a smile, " Periya pambu ! " (big snake). We approach nearer and observe a most extraordinary and gruesome - looking object — a thick, scaly, unshapely monster, with a large pair of horns and a tail, lying under a shady bush. On close examination it turns out to be an immense python in a comotose state, digesting a large deer, which it had swallowed up to the antlers, and was then evidently waiting for the antlers to rot and drop off in the ordinary course of events.
Leaving this interesting but repulsive sight with its abominable stench behind, we enter a nice open clearing. It is a likely spot for game. My companion skirts this,
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m&iP . '
THE RETURN TO GAMP 131
while I keep the track. Before getting through, I hear two shots, and soon after my friend T. turns up with a hare and hog deer. We hurry back now, as the sun is getting up and becoming very hot, and have lots to do in camp when we get there. Passing through another open space with long grass, something rushes by. I fire, rolling over a mouse deer, not much larger than a hare, with the daintiest of feet and prettily marked.
My companion is now roaming round on my left, and shortly I hear another shot in his direction, accompanied by a terrible howling and yelling, evidently that of a pig. We gradually work up to him, and find he has just bagged a large boar, with a fine set of tusks. Dragging it under the shade of some bushes, we leave a trail of broken branches behind to mark the spot, and then proceed again on our journey, and gradually there opens Velli plain. Then we get a view of the camp in the distance, and by dodging in and out earth hummocks and long grass for about twenty minutes we eventually reach the spot, very hot and moist, glad of a long chair and a cool, refreshing drink.
After resting a while we tub and breakfast. Allah Pitchei and Sinnacooty, having also been refreshed by rice and curry, start off with some coolies to bring in the feet and other portions of the elephant marked off for curing, including the pig, while we amuse ourselves cleaning the guns, and yarn about our successful morn- ing's shoot, with which we have good reason to be pleased.
In the foregoing little sketch the tracking ends by a somewhat unexpected and exciting charge of the elephant and a marvellously lucky shot, which fortunately stopped its mad rush and ended its career. The author has experienced many such charges with varying success, sometimes killing on the spot, at other times only wound- ing, ending perhaps in a mill. In the majority of his expeditions he has, in most cases, by careful stalking,
132 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
been able to approach within fifteen or twenty yards without alarming the quarry, thereby obtaining a steady and almost sure shot ; but even at this close range killing is not always a certainty. The animal frequently gets away owing to the shot missing its mark, leaving the sportsman rather surprised and in much wonder.
This may be accounted for by the two following reasons : The miss may be due to the bullet having been diverted from its course by . branches and twigs in the line of sight, but unnoticeable in dark jungle. Or very probably it may arise from the fact that although, to all appearance, the elephant seems to be standing perfectly steady, he is not actually so. The head is always on the move when the animal is stationary, sway- ing from side to side, as one may observe on seeing one in captivity. Thus from the time of taking aim to the pulling of the trigger, the head probably has altered its original position several inches, with the result that the shot goes wide of the mark. It is by no means easy for one to notice this movement on first acquaintance with the anei in the sombre light of deep jungle. Experience alone teaches.
Sometimes after a long tramp I have come within a few yards of an elephant, when it has been impossible to see it owing to the density of the undergrowth. It is then necessary to stoop down and look under the bushes for any indication of the trunk, legs and feet. Having discovered these, and noted the direction of the head, the utmost care must be taken to further approach and get a view of the head. This is a time when the muslin bag of wood ashes comes in useful in giving the direction of the wind, be it ever so light.
If the wind is satisfactory, pick your way through the bushes as quietly as possible, avoiding treading on brittle pieces of dead wood, carefully watching for any opportunity that may offer to get a glimpse of the head.
THE RETURN TO GAMP 133
As soon as this has been obtained take steady aim, and fire at the most vital part presented, as advised in Chapter VII, pages 103, 104.
Having spent a few days at Velli, we go on a little further to Coombanatchie, another favourite sporting locality. The condition of the road is much the same as from Putur to Velli, being through thickly wooded and heavily rooted jungle, the axe as before being in constant request to clear the way for the carts. Never- theless, the country is very interesting, as game of all kinds are to be found there.
After travelling about three or four miles we come to a clearing and native cattle kraal on the banks of a branch of the Mahawellaganga, the main river of the Island. We stop here for breakfast, and the madu karren (herdsman) close by will supply one with buffalo or cow milk if asked. This will be found very refreshing after a long morning's tramp.
Having rested for a time, we again resume our journey, diving into the jungle for about another three and a half miles, and then emerge from the forest on Coombanatchie, a nice, clear, open, but more or less swampy plain, with a tributary of the Mahawellaganga running close by. This is an ideal haunt of the elephant, as well as of every other kind of game, the vegetation and jungle growth in the vicinity being most luxuriant and fine. Some magnificent and sweet-scented flowering trees and lofty trees covered with richly coloured convolvuli and other creepers, drooping gracefully down to the running water, throwing off delicious but powerful perfumes which can be smelt at a considerable distance, add great charm to the scene.
In this delightful and inviting game country we settle down for a few days' more shooting, observing that lots of snipe are to be found in the neighbourhood of the swamps on this plain, and furnish a very useful change
134 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
of sport on returning to camp after a long morning's tramp pursuing big game. It may be as well to mention here that we are now close on the boundary of the North Central province, and must therefore obtain another set of licences from the Government Agent of that pro- vince, whose headquarters are at Anuradhapura, if we desire to enter it in pursuit of game, as each province has its own regulations in ihis respect, and arranges its close seasons.
In the circumstances we will for the present, after completing our shoot here, return to Trincomalie, and arrange another expedition in some other direction of the Eastern province.
CHAPTER IX SETTING UP AND CURING OF TROPHIES
SPORTSMEN generally like retaining their trophies of the chase. Indeed, the variety of useful and ornamental articles to wh'ch the feet, hide, and other parts of the elephant can be converted are endless. As it may interest my readers, I give a few suggestions :—
The feet — tantalus stands, footstools, receptacles for wastepaper.
A FEW ELE1*HANT AND OTHER TROPHIES
136 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
Hide, when softened in pickle, can be moulded to any shape, and made into anything desired.
Ear can be kept in its natural state, or its skin may be made into cigar-cases or purses. It is prettily mottled.
Trunk, when cured, moulded and dried, may be cut into lengths, each segment being adaptable for conver- sion to some useful article.
By lining a section with wood, fitting to it a handle and a glass bowl, and placing round it a band of silver, it makes a curious and handsome biscuit holder, or the trunk as a whole can also be so moulded as to be made into a unique cornucopia-shaped stand for any purpose.
Tusks or tushes can be retained in their natural state.
Teeth can be retained in their natural state, or may be cut, polished, and made into paper weights and knife handles.
Skull. — With suitable inscription on forehead this forms a grand trophy in itself.
Feet. — The feet should not be cut off too low down, but at a point a little above the knuckle joint. When they are first brought into camp no time should be lost in setting the coolies to \vork with their knives to remove all the bones and flesh from the inside. This must be carefully done, and the coolies should be cautioned not to pierce the skin. After the bones and flesh are taken out there is still a whitish gristly substance at the bottom about half an inch thick, known as the sock. This must also be taken away, leaving only the hard horny sole. Then the nails must be attended to.
In each nail will be found a hard bony substance, which must also be carefully removed. When proper!}' done, the nails, if held up to the light, will appear trans- parent. This operation satisfactorily completed, the feet should next be wrell painted with arsenical soap inside and out, and filled with nice warm dry sand. The
SETTING UP AND CURING OF TROPHIES 137
sand should be removed every twenty-four hours and replaced by fresh sand, allowing the feet to remain empty for about an hour or so between the operations for the purpose of airing. Sand is generally procurable somewhere in the neighbourhood.
The feet should not be placed in the sun to dry, but
ELEPHANT FOOT TROPHY
TANTALUS STAND
somewhere in the shade, else they may shrivel up and be spoiled. If kept in a dry, airy place they will remain good for some considerable time. To complete the curing — which may be done later — they should be passed through a pickle composed o the following : 6 Ibs. of alum, 2 Ibs. saltpetre, 12 ozs. common salt — to 4 gallons
138 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
of water. This should be mixed together in kerosene tins or anything else convenient, and placed on the fire until boiling, when it should be removed and allowed to cool until the hand can just bear the heat.
A foot should then be placed in a tub and the pickle poured all over it. The skin will soon become soft, and can be doubled up, when the others can be treated in a similar manner. The feet should remain in this pickle twenty-four hours, and then taken out and drained. The pickle should then be warmed up again, and the operation repeated for another twenty-four hours, after which the feet must be taken out, well drained, and filled with warm dry sand, and moulded to shape desired. The hot sand in the feet should be replenished frequently for a few weeks.
This will complete the curing. The author has some feet by him now cured in this way that have lasted nearly thirty years, and they are still in perfect condition.
Tail. — This should be slit up on the inner side, the bones taken out, and it should then be painted with arsenical soap, after which it should be sewn up, filled with warm dry sand as prescribed for the feet, and hung up to dry in the shade. The writer has many tails simply cured by painting them over with arsenical soap, and by then applying carbolic acid to the raw part where the tail was cut. They were then dried in the sun. As the flesh is not of a greasy nature it dries quickly.
HINTS FOR CURING.
Ears. — The gristle of the inside should be carefully taken out. The ear should then be painted with arsenical soap, and hung up to dry in the shade.
Trunk. — This should be skinned like one would do an eel, removing all superfluous flesh. The skin must then be painted inside and out with arsenical soap,
SETTING UP AND CURING OF TROPHIES 139
filled with warm dry sand, moulded into shape, and laid in a dry place in the shade to dry. The sand should be frequently changed. The skin will soon dry and become hard.
Hide. — Superfluous flesh that may be adhering should be removed from the hide, which should then be painted with arsenical soap, and hung up to dry in the shade.
The ears, trunk, and hide should pass through similar pickling as the feet to complete the curing.
Tusks and Teeth. — These should be scrubbed and cleansed with a weak solution of carbolic acid.
The Skull. — If this is to be kept as a trophy, it should be left in the jungle for a few weeks, when ants and other insects will most effectually eat off all the flesh, leaving it perfectly white. It may then be removed and brought in. Should the sportsman be camping anywhere near the sea, he should have it immersed therein for a time. The salt water will do a lot to cleanse and get rid of any unpleasant odour that may remain. After this it should be thoroughly scrubbed and well rinsed with carbolic fluid, taking care to run the carbolic well into the brain pan and all hollows. It should then be placed in the sun to dry and purify by time.
Other preservative prescriptions appear in the Ap- pendix.
CHAPTER X SOME ELEPHANT SHOOTING EXPERIENCES
ONCE when dining at the military mess at Fort Frederick a friend of mine, a Captain L. H., of the R.A.M.C., appeared much interested in elephant shooting. He told me that he had never shot or been after an elephant in his life, but expressed a great wish to accompany me on one of my expeditions. He was a fine, tall, square-shouldered, well-set-up and jovial Irishman, and an excellent companion. I said it would give me much pleasure to take him, and accord- ingly arranged a shoot some few days later, little think- ing at the time that it would end, as it did, with one of the narrowest and most marvellous escapes I ever had.
Putting a few things together, we made our way across the water to Topore on the Kottiar side, where we obtained trackers, and early next morning started to prospect round the banks of the tank, soon coming on the spoor of a fine " alien " or solitary elephant, which had been doing damage and giving trouble to the native culti- vators. By the freshness of its track and other indica- tions it had but a short time before left the open, and was evidently now on the march, seeking some cool, secluded retreat in the depths of the forest.
We followed it up without delay, and, after three hours' hard tramping through dense and heavy jungle, the tracks suddenly ended in a confused mass of foot impressions, trodden-down bushes, droppings, and sundry
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SOME ELEPHANT SHOOTING EXPERIENCES 143
broken branches of trees strewn about. The anei had no doubt stopped here and been hesitating as to where to settle down for his nap. My tracker, Allah Pitchei, and myself were now somewhat in advance of my friend, who had been provided with another tracker in case of getting separated. While carefully examining the spoor to see in what direction the animal had moved off, we heard deep stentorian snoring some distance away.
" Anei ! Anei ! " whispered Pitchei in my ear. We then left the track, and, steering cautiously through the undergrowth by the sound, soon came up to our quarry, lying stretched out full length fast asleep, with its head resting on an anthill for a pillow, in a secluded little clearing, with a stagnant pool of green water lying conveniently near by for a bath after the siesta.
So far we had approached without disturbing it. Its back was towards us, and a few paces off was a large ironwood tree, which we made for, getting now so close to the anei that Allah Pitchei picked up a small leaf and actually placed it on the back of its head, and whispered to me with a broad grin, " Master there shooting ! Master's elephant ! "
This remark, of course, was not serious, but only a little joke of the tracker's, as he was awrare that I wished my friend to have the first shot, and then only when the animal was up and on the move. While waiting for him to appear on the scene, I was surprised by hear- ing two reports and the whizzing of bullets unpleasantly close to one's head. My friend, who was but a short distance behind, had no doubt also heard the snoring, and being, as may be supposed, somewhat nervously excited, this being his first experience, had possibly imagined he saw the elephant and fired through the undergrowth in the direction of the sound, evidently forgetful of my presence just ahead in the line of fire.
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This roused the anei, which immediately got up and made off with a great rush, crashing through the jungle and bearing down everything before it. I was too close then to shoot, so I quickly followed in its tracks, putting in a shot as chance offered. It was a magni- ficent animal, and by the size of its footprints, over ten feet high, with a fine pair of tushes, which I was anxious to secure. I ran after the brute through the thick jungle, with nothing more before me to be seen than its great rump, which made the shooting very difficult, and it was only by luck now and again one got a glimpse of the head, at which I shot, with a view of stopping or turning it.
I had fired several shots in this way without effect, when by the dense undergrowth I lost sight of the beast for a minute or so. It then appeared again, this time, to my surprise, with its head towards me in full charge, caused evidently by the tracker having headed and turned it in my direction. I was in the act of reloading, and had just time to put in one cartridge, raise my gun and fire, but whether it was that my hand was unsteady, or my sight affected by my previous exertions, I know not. In any case I made a bad shot, and, after that, all I remember at the time was hearing a loud shriek of rage, and seeing an immense head towering above, with trunk curled to one side, and a pair of vicious little eyes, coming straight for me.
In my endeavour to jump aside out of its way, my foot unfortunately caught in a creeper, which threw me down with my gun underneath, knocking my wind out. " Done for now," thought I.
The brute immediately stopped dead and stood over me. While I was lying face downwards between its legs, expecting every moment to be flattened out by its feet, I could feel the hot air from its trunk, as it sniffed and blew dust over my head and face ; but strangely
10
SOME ELEPHANT SHOOTING EXPERIENCES 147
enough, for some extraordinary reason, it hesitated to do me harm. Its attention at the moment had appa- rently been drawn to some startling object which had suddenly caught its eye close by — possibly the appari- tion of my friend, as suddenly I heard two loud reports, and the next moment saw daylight, the huge brute having fallen over on its side, and, by good luck, clear of me.
As soon as I found myself free, I was up in quicker time than it takes to tell. I obtained the cover of a tree, reloaded my rifle, and once more felt fairly safe. Hardly had I done so, when the elephant was also on its legs again. It had been only momentarily stunned, and, with outstretched trunk, was soon busily engaged scenting all round endeavouring to get wind of me. At last it was evidently successful, for it approached in my direction at the run. Taking as steady an aim as I then could for the centre of the forehead, I fired and rolled it over ; but, to my astonishment, it was up again and off in a second, crashing through the jungle in full retreat.
I was beginning to blame my luck and bad shooting, when I thought I heard my name called, and looking round saw, to my astonishment, standing a little distance away among the leaves, my friend L. H., whose provi- dential and timely presence a minute or so before had been the means of so miraculously saving my life.
On explaining matters, it turned out that he and his tracker had strayed from the tracks, and were being guided in my direction by the sound of the firing, when suddenly and quite by chance his attention was drawn to a large elephant standing amongst the bushes on his left some forty or fifty yards off, at which he impulsively fired both barrels of his Express with soft expanding bullets, little thinking that I was at the time actually lying be- tween its legs. Those shots had, as I said, only the effect
148 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
of stunning the animal, but nevertheless they caused it to fall over, and so released me from my perilous situa- tion.
A little later we were seated on a boulder close by having a peg to pull ourselves together a bit, and he related to me his sensation of wonderment and surprise when he saw me rise from under the very elephant he had dropped. It certainly must have been a bit of a shock to him, and no doubt we were both somewhat a little shaky after the excitement. Noticing my friend was looking somewhat pale, I happened to mention the fact. His reply was, " Is it pale that I am ? Perhaps so ; but when I come to look at you, my bhoy, I may say that your face is hardly the colour of a carnation ! "
I daresay he was right. It was indeed a narrow squeak and a most miraculous escape, quite enough to put one a bit off colour. News was brought next day that the elephant was found lying dead about three miles away near the banks of the Mahawellaganga.
Another time, when spending a few days with some friends at Allai Tank for a little duck and snipe shooting, I had another close shave. I had been enjoying some capital sport, and had made some excellent bags, when it was arranged one evening amongst ourselves, for the sake of a little variety and change, that the next day each should go on his own, selecting whatever line of country and game he chose.
I accordingly got hold of my old native friend, Allah Pitchei, from his village close by, and talked the matter over with him. He at once suggested crossing the tank to the opposite side to try our luck in tracking up an old anei, which had haunted the neighbourhood for some time past to the danger of the native cultivators, whose crops had suffered considerably by his depreda- tions, and had been seen but a day or so previously. The idea attracted me at once. Accordingly next
SOME ELEPHANT SHOOTING EXPERIENCES 149
morning I got ready the elephant rifle, put a few sand- wiches in my pocket, had a canoe brought alongside and made an early start.
The morning was deliciously cool, and wildfowl of many kinds were flying about in all directions, as they rose disturbed by the noise of the paddling. When nearing the other side, my tracker, who had been care- fully on the look out, suddenly caught sight of the anei in a shady glen near the edge of the water, just as it was about to disappear in the jungle.
Making our way downwind for a short distance we landed, and then cautiously worked our way up, until we came on the tracks, and were soon . busy following up the spoor. Judging from the footprints, it was a large animal, somewhat over nine feet. A heavy dew overnight made the tracking fairly easy, and, after a rather long tramp of a little over two hours, we came up to it in difficult jungle, standing with its hind-quarters towards us. There was little or no wind, and what there was seemed very variable.
In order to get a shot it was necessary to work round to one side to obtain a view of the head. Before doing so I took the precaution to give my little bag of wood ashes a flick to make sure of the wind. This test being satisfactory, I gradually crept up, and was just about to raise my rifle, when the animal must either have seen or scented me, for it suddenly gave a grunt and bolted, trumpeting and crashing through the bush, levelling everything before it.
We immediately gave chase, and again getting fairly close, got a running shot, but without effect. In another moment it was lost to view, when, hearing it still break- ing through the jungle on our right, we made for a dried- up watercourse, down which we ran with a view of cutting off its retreat. We had not proceeded far before I heard Allah Pitchei's voice in my rear shouting " Anei !
150 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
Anei ! " I looked round, and, to my utter astonishment and surprise, found the huge beast within a yard or so towering above and nearly on top of me. It must have doubled back on its tracks, which gave it the scent, and, entering the watercourse behind us, came on at the charge.
On the impulse of the moment I did the only thing one could do in such an emergency. I jumped aside, throwing myself into some bushes. It was not a second too soon, as the brute swept by within a few inches of my body immediately after, and was fortunately carried on some distance ahead by the impetus it had on, allow- ing me time to gain the shelter of a tree in the jungle just above. Here I was soon joined by Allah Pitchei, who had also done the same thing a minute or so before.
The anei had now evidently lost our wind, and could be heard cruising round. While on the look out for it to reappear, I felt something warm trickling down my face, and on putting up my hand found it to be blood issuing from a wound in the top of my head, which I must have received in my fall. As I was unable to stop its flow, and to prevent it getting into my eyes, interfering with my sight, my friend, Allah Pitchei, came to the rescue with a dab of mud. He clapped this over the spot, and in a short time it effectively stopped the bleeding. No sooner had this been done than he touched me on the shoulder, pointed with his finger in a certain direction in great excitement, whisper- ing at the same time " Periya anei."
I looked round, and to my surprise I saw a tusker, which had suddenly and mysteriously appeared on the scene, standing within twenty yards broadside on, with ears cocked, looking down the bed of the watercourse. No doubt it had been disturbed and drawn to the spot by curiosity after the recent firing and other noises.
SOME ELEPHANT SHOOTING EXPERIENCES 151
As its position gave me a good line for the ear, I raised my rifle and fired, dropping it dead first shot.
This sudden turn of fortune cheered me immensely, although I regretted the firing had scared away the other elephant, as nothing more was heard of it. The weather was exceedingly hot, and, feeling somewhat tired and thirsty after the long tramp and excitement of the morning, I enjoyed a cool w. and s. with some sandwiches, making use of the fallen elephant as a seat, while Allah Pitchei chewed his betelnut and took measure- ments.
I had every reason to thank my stars for my narrow shave and escape but a few minutes before, and for the wonderful good luck that followed in bagging the tusker, the first that had been shot in this part of the Island for many a year.
The measurements were — height, 9' 2" ; circumfer- ence of fore feet, 55". The tusks were small, under 3'.
Some few years ago I also went for a shoot in com- pany with Admiral the Honble. Sir E. R. Fremantle, who was then commanding the East India station. We crossed the water to Kottiar, the native Moor village lying in the bight of Tamblegam bay, already spoken of, and made our way to Coombanatchie, about twenty- eight miles further. It is a noted district for elephants, and early next morning, shouldering our rifles, we made a start to explore the country round about. In a short time we came to the dry bed of a watercourse, into which we descended, soon discovering tracks of a large solitary elephant.
Following these, they eventually led us after several miles of tracking to the banks of the main branch of the Mahawellaganga, a deep, impassable river, infested with crocodiles, over which we thought, to our disap- pointment, the anei must have crossed, as fresh spoor could be seen near the water's edge. We, therefore,
152 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
sat down on the bank close by, and consoled ourselves with a little refreshment and a smoke, and began to talk over matters and arrange the next best thing to do. Suddenly we heard the snapping of a piece of dry wood in the thick forest in front of us.
" Anei ! " said Allah Pitchei at once, and we jumped up, and after listening a moment discovered by the grunting sounds and rustling of leaves that the beast was making in our direction, so we made ready to receive it. In another minute its ponderous head appeared through the bushes above us about twenty yards off. Making a sign to the Admiral to aim for the bump in the forehead just above the eyes, he raised his rifle and fired. The animal lowered its head, half spun round, and fell over dead.
While examining it, Allah Pitchei suddenly spotted another fine anei which had mysteriously appeared on the scene. It had evidently seen or heard us, as it quickly turned and made off in another direction. We immediately hurried through the jungle with a view to heading it, which we did successfully, and then waited for its approach. The head and trunk soon appeared above the undergrowth within a short distance, bearing down branches of trees and bushes, making a way for itself, coming straight towards us. I was standing a few yards away to the Admiral's right watching its move- ments, when I was startled by the shriek and trumpet- ing of an elephant immediately in our rear. On turning round, I saw a young bull charging down full upon us.
I had just time to warn the Admiral, and to take a snap shot at the same moment. I then heard two shots fired in extraordinarily quick succession by the Admiral, within six feet of whom the animal now dropped dead — very close work ! The other elephant had made off, alarmed at the firing.
Glancing at the Admiral, I noticed his coat was on
SOME ELEPHANT SHOOTING EXPERIENCES 153
fire, and blood issuing from wounds in his chest and neck. Hurrying to his assistance, I helped him into a lying position, making use of my coat as a pillow. " Good God ! " thought I, "he is dying ! " The colour had left his face, but after applying my whisky flask to his lips for want of something better, he, to my delight and relief, gradually revived, and then said that he couldn't help thinking but what a bullet must have ricocheted and entered his chest.
To convince him to the contrary, I got Allah Pitchei to cut two jungle poles, and, by their aid as levers, we managed to lift the head o; the animal sufficiently for him to see both bullet wounds made by his gun — one in the head just above the temple, and the other a little further off. The sight of these cheered him and greatly relieved my anxiety. On examination of his gun, I saw at once what had taken place. I felt certain that the accident was due to the breech of the rifle opening when the discharge took place, it not having been pro- perly and securely locked by the underlever beforehand.
This caused a part of the metal portion of the cartridge, some brown paper packing and powder to fly back, striking him in the chest and neck, at the same time setting fire to his coat. For some unknown reason both barrels were fired almost simultaneously, possibly due to excitement. As he soon began to feel better, my thought was to get him back to camp as quickly as possible. After temporarily dressing his wounds, we made a litter from materials which the jungle sup- plied, and carried him by the help of his coxswain and tracker for some considerable way through dense bush, cutting a road by the use of knife and axe. At length we came to a shady spot near a pool of greenish water, where we made a halt.
I now sent Allah Pitchei back to camp for coolies, rope, canvas, and refreshments. While he was away
154 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
the coxswain and myself built a shelter over the Admiral to screen him from the excessive glare and heat of the midday sun. To further improve matters, we kept him constantly fanned with wet handkerchiefs dipped in the stagnant pool we had fortunately near at hand. While so engaged I was very glad when I heard the voices of natives in the distance, and these men with Allah Pitchei soon appeared on the scene with all re- quirements, enabling us to construct a more comfort- able and serviceable litter with a canvas canopy. Then, hastily partaking of some of the good things which had been specially brought to meet the cravings of the " inner man," we commenced the march back to camp, which by the extra coolie assistance now at our command we soon reached.
Placing the Admiral on his bed, a special messenger was dispatched with a note to the captain of his flag- ship, informing him of the accident, and requesting medical assistance. I then redressed the wounds, which made the patient feel so much more comfortable as to cause him to make light of his injuries and indulge in a cigarette, chatting cheerfully over the morning's exciting adventure.
It was astonishing to me to see how quickly the Admiral had bucked up, and the interest he was now taking in all the little arrangements I was making for his speedy return to Trincomalie. He even reminded me to open a bottle of " fizz " to celebrate the deaths of the two aneis ! I, of course, obeyed with alacrity, and drank to his speedy recovery, in which I am happy to say he was then able to join me.
Early next morning, before sunrise, we had struck camp and made a start, the Admiral reclining comfort- ably on his litter, with relays of coolie bearers ready to take their turn as required. We had twenty-eight miles of jungle before us to get through before reaching
SOME ELEPHANT SHOOTING EXPERIENCES 155
our destination, Kottiar, where we intended staying the night prior to crossing the water to Trincomalie.
The journey was accomplished without hitch and in good time, arriving in daylight. The flag captain and surgeon turned up a little later in the ship's steam cutter, leaving again after the latter had attended to the Admiral. The following morning we crossed over to Trincomalie in a native canoe, and I was indeed glad to be then relieved of my anxiety and my responsi- bility.
The pluck and endurance displayed by the Admiral in his condition was from beginning to end marvellous, the wounds being of a serious nature. A charming man, full of anecdote, and a most entertaining and genial companion on the shoot, I was indeed greatly pleased when a few months later I heard of his complete recovery.
A very extraordinary feature on the return journey was the large amount of game we came across, especi- ally in view of the noises made by the chattering coolies, which included two large elephants, sambur, chital, pig, and almost everything else ; but of course at such a time one could not shoot.
CHAPTER XI ABOUT CROCODILE CATCHING
WHEREVER water lies in the low country crocodiles are pretty sure to be present. They infest the estuaries and rivers, and literally swarm in the tanks.
The estuarine crocodiles that inhabit brackish water and flowing rivers are larger and much more intrepid and ferocious than those which live exclusively in fresh water. They attain a length of over twenty-five feet, and are exceedingly prone to attack human beings. Cases have also been known where even the tank or
CROCODILES AT HOME 156
ABOUT CROCODILE CATCHING
157
marsh crocodiles (Crocodilus palustris), considered to be more timid, have assailed man when pressed by hunger, and have chased cultivators along the bunds on returning
CROCODILE CATCHING
BAIT SUSPENDED OVER WATER
from their labours. Certainly they do so without hesita- tion should one unfortunately be in difficulties in the water. They frequently carry off cattle. Dogs they are particularly partial to, and by their depredations generally are cordially detested and dreaded by the natives. One is therefore always prompted with a desire to destroy them whenever an opportunity offers.
They are, at the same time, great scavengers, and possibly in this direction do a certain amount of good, as they roam about over the land at night in search of any decayed and putrid flesh that their acute sense of smell may lead them to, and this they devour with the greatest gusto.
I have often come across them in the jungle on my early morning tramps. Sometimes they were a consider-
158 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
.able distance from any water, and no doubt were return- ing after a marauding expedition during the night. Once when on a miscellaneous shoot in the Terayai district with Admiral Sir William R. Kennedy, who \\as at the time commanding the East India Squadron, a thorough sportsman and jovial companion, with whom I had the pleasure of many delightful shooting expeditions, I was assailed by one in a forest.
The creature came straight for me with its jaws wide open, hissing like a steam engine. Waiting until it got quite close, I put the Express nearly down its throat and fired, blowing out the back of the head and killing it on the spot. When opened it had a large wander oo monkey in its inside. This originated an amusing story — an account of which is given in some sportsman's yarns further on.
Two terrible cases I can recall of human beings being seized and carried away by these blood-thirsty brutes. One took place some few years ago at the great tank of Mineri, in the North Central province, while a Mr. J. M., of the Forest Department, a well-known sportsman and friend of mine, was busy one evening in his tent cleaning his rifle, after returning from an official inspection of the forests in his district. A native ran up to htm wild with excitement and exclaimed, " Master must come quickly with gun, as one ' muthalei ' (crocodile) has seized a woman and is taking her away."
My friend immediately ran out with his gun, but was too late to do any good, although in time to see an arm raised just above the water holding a native chatty (earthen bowl), which was being carried at some consider- able speed through the water. It was a moonlight night, and the natives were directed to watch and inform him where the crocodile landed the body. Later in the evening news arrived that it had come ashore and was lying under a bush half a mile distant.
ABOUT CROCODILE CATCHING 159
He thereupon endeavoured to stalk it, and after some little difficulty in getting through brushwood and other impediments he successfully accomplished and killed the brute with his elephant rifle and an explosive bullet. The reptile, he informed me, measured over twenty-three feet, and when discovered was resting with its enormous head and forearms on the woman's chest. The poor woman, from the natives' account, was with others bathing, and in the act of throwing water over herself with a chatty, in what was considered a perfectly safe fenced-off piece of the tank used for this purpose, when suddenly she was seized by the monster and carried over the fence. My friend afterwards presented me with one of its great teeth as a memento, and I have this mounted as a curiosity and set up as a flower vase.
On another occasion and more recently, two gentlemen known to me were shooting duck from the bund of a tank in the Trincomalie district. Some teal fell into the water thirty or forty yards distant, and the coolie in attendance was persuaded to retrieve them. He had waded to a point within a few feet of the game, with the water above his waist, and was just about to grasp the birds when, to the horror of those looking on, he was observed to be suddenly seized and pulled under. His turban remained floating on the surface, and a second or so after two arms were seen above the water endeavour- ing to clasp the turban, only to be dragged down again immediately, and the poor man was seen no more.
Crocodile catching is frequently indulged in both by Europeans and natives, and will be found to be a most entertaining and exciting diversion. In connection with it the following information may be useful, for it will give an idea how to prepare suitable tackle for the purpose, as well as particulars as to the baiting and laying out of the lines. The materials required are few, and consist of some strong half-inch hemp rope, sailmaker's twine,
160 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
and a few large hooks. From these are constructed three fishing lines. You take a piece of the hemp rope, say fifteen to twenty fathoms long, and attach to this, at one end, a snood, made of a hank of sailmaker's twine about a fathom long, fifty threads thick, tied together at intervals of about nine inches, then the hook. A cringle let in at both ends is useful to prevent chafing. (See sketch.)
The reason of the hank of sailmaker's twine being placed • between the hook and the rope is on account of the creature's enormously powerful jaws, with which it can bite through almost every other kind of material closely twisted. In the case of loose twine this is not so easy, as it becomes soft and pliable, lies flat, and gets into the interstices of its teeth, and is thus protected. I have known cases where thick hemp rope and even wire rope have been bitten through by crocodiles like cheese.
A great deal also depends on the kind of hook used. Owing to the peculiar formation of a crocodile's mouth, which is tongueless, there is no place where the ordinary fish-hook is likely to hold, except in the leathery sub- stance of the lower jaw. Here it seldom takes effect. I have accordingly designed a hook to meet the case which answers beyond all expectations.
It is made of a piece of f " steel rod 16" long, with a ring at one end, and at the other four pointed steel blades 5" by T3F/r, which are let into two slots at opposite angles. These only open to a certain extent when the bait is seized, and form a star of four sharp hooks, one of which is sure to penetrate the leathery skin of the lower jaw and hold the crocodile firmly. (See sketches and specifications on opposite page, which will
(i) Shut
CROCODILE HOOK (INVENTED BY THE AUTHOR)
(2) Open
(3) Baited
(4)
Holes are drilled through the blades to receive a piece of packthread to fix them in place when closed, as shown in Sketches i, 2 above.
MADE OF f" STEEL ROD
Length of shank . . . . . . 16 inches.
blades . . . . . . 5
Width of ,, . . . . . . f" tapered to point.
Thickness of „ f\" •>
ABOUT CROCODILE CATCHING 163
explain the details and give an excellent idea of the instrument.)
In lieu of this, the next best is the " kedge hook," which consists of three large shark hooks welded together in the form of a kedge anchor, finishing the shank with a ring for attaching the sailmaker's twine snood ; the points of the hooks should be bent a trifle more out than they usually are, and the shank made at least a foot long.
Let us assume the three lines are now completed, and baited either with a monkey, portion of a dog, or any- thing else of a similar tempting nature. The next thing to do will be to lay them out. For this purpose it is as well to take a stroll round the bund of the tank and find some likely secluded spots to place them, where the lotus and other green weeds cover the surface of the water. Having selected these, a light pole ten or twelve feet long is cut wherewith to hang the bait over the water from the bank. We then take about eight feet of the line from above the bait, make two half hitches, and slip it on the end of the pole. The remainder of the line is taken across the bund to the jungle side, and made fast to a strong and springy young sapling. Now the bait is lowered over the water by the pole, which is kept in position by two light native rope side stays, as well as by the main line made fast to the sapling, as shown in sketch at commencement of this chapter.
Observe that the bait should be kept about two feet above the water, so that the crocodile must rise and open its jaws to take it. If allowed to rest on the surface of the water it would only get nipped by the fore teeth and dragged off the hook to no purpose.
The object of making the main line fast to the sapling is to prevent it being snapped on the first pull, as the sapling gives gradually to the sudden strain.
Strange as it may seem, these creatures, in the absence
164 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
of live bait, much prefer decomposed flesh to that freshly killed. The stronger it smells, the more enticing it becomes, and as they have a wonderful keen sense of smell, decomposed flesh will draw them from long dis- tances. Nevertheless, should anything suddenly attract their attention, such as a duck falling into the water with a splash when shot, they are at once on the alert, and would seize the duck without hesitation.
The native way of capturing them is by a hard piece of wood about one foot long, tapered to a point at each end, and grooved in the middle for the purpose of attach- ing a line made of raw hide. (See sketch below.)
At the other end of this hide line, which is about six fathoms long, is attached a buoy made of light jungle wood. The pointed piece of wood is then placed inside a monkey or other kind of bait, and the whole thrown into the water, the buoy floating on the surface. In due course the bait is swallowed by a crocodile that swims away with it, the buoy acting as a tell- tale to the reptile's movements. This the native carefully watches until sufficient time has elapsed for digestion, which releases and allows the pointed piece of wood to open across the crocodile's chest, fixing it effectually.
The buoy is then picked up and the brute hauled ashore and killed. This takes time, and the ser- vices of a canoe are required to retrieve the buoy, which may possibly be taken to some distant part of the tank.
There are numerous tanks in the neighbourhood of
ABOUT CROCODILE CATCHING 167
Trincomalie where crocodile catching may be indulged in. The following may be mentioned :—
Kanthalai distant 25 miles
Vandrassen Kulam . . . . „ 24 „
Andan Kulam . . . . . . ,, 3j „
Allai Tank ,, 14 „
Periya Kulam . . . . . . ,, 6 ,,
Pankulam ,, 15 ,,
As Periya Kulam is within a short distance of Trin- comalie and easy to get at, it will perhaps be as well to try one's luck here first. The best time for fishing is on a moonlight night. The tent should be pitched somewhere near the scene of operations for the purpose of conveniently inspecting the lines from time to time as desired.
The guns required will be the Express and smooth bores. The Express with expanding bullets is for des- patching the crocodile on being hauled ashore, and the smooth bores are for diversion during the day when the lines have been baited and laid and the game proves shy. Four coolies only, beside the personal staff, are required. Two bullock carts are also necessary to carry stores.
There is a public works bungalow on this tank, the use of which could no doubt be easily obtained on appli- cation being made to the officer in charge. Like other officers of the department, he is generally most courteous and ready to oblige, and this precaution obviates the necessity of carrying a tent.
The catching appliances being ready, we pack them, together with the necessary camping gear and provisions for a few days, into the carts, and make an early morning start from the rest house, arriving an hour or so later at the tank. Here, after the bungalow is put in order,
168 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
we have tiffin, and then see to the baiting of the lines, usually with pariah dogs previously shot.
These miserable, half-starved and mangy curs infest the district. They have few if any owners, living on any carrion they can pick up in the streets, gutters and refuse heaps, and are so numerous as to become a nuisance. It is, therefore, a mercy to destroy them, and for a rupee or so no difficulty is experienced in obtaining any number
THE BUNGALOW PERIYA KULAM
required. A fair-sized dog will make two good baits when cut in two and placed on the hook, as shown in a previous sketch.
Having satisfactorily fixed the baits to the hooks, we take the three lines and lay them out in the different selected spots on the bund, in accordance with instruc- tions already given. This done, we return to the bungalow, pick up our shot guns, get down on the paddy fields adjoining, and amuse ourselves during the rest of the day snipe shooting (if in season); if not, then by a miscel-
ABOUT CROCODILE CATCHING 169
laneous shoot in the country round about. On returning to the bungalow we have a look at the different lines.
If they are all right and not disturbed, we refresh ourselves with a tub, dine, and take it easy until, say, 9 o'clock, when we again have a look round with perhaps the same result. At 10 o'clock another inspection takes place. We find the first and second baits have not been touched, but the third has disappeared, the rope is strained like a bar, and the sapling is very much bent forward. I catch hold of the line and can feel the move- ments of the crocodile at the other end, apparently firmly hooked. A signal is then made for the coolies, who soon appear on the scene, catch hold of the rope and commence to haul, but for a minute or so do so without effect. The crocodile is evidently holding on to some roots below and will not budge.
The coolies still keep a steady strain on the rope, when suddenly it gives, and then the line comes in. Some little disappointment is felt at this, as it is thought the line is either broken or the crocodile has got off. In a few seconds, however, our disappointment is changed to surprise by a sudden commotion and lashing of the water by the reptile's tail a little way off, and we see it clearly now in the bright moonlight on the surface, being gradually drawn to the bank.
My companion and I take up a position on one side with the Express, ready to fire so soon as its head is clear of the water. It struggles and plunges tremendously as it nears the shore in its wild and frantic efforts to escape, and the coolies have as much as they can do to hold it. In another moment or so its huge head is drawn partly up the bank, and two well-directed shots, one through the shoulder and another near the orifice of the ear, end its career.
Although the reptile is now apparently dead, one must not be tempted to venture too close, as their tenacity
170 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
of life is marvellous. It may at any time revive and possibly sweep one into the water by a swish of the tail, or make a snap at one with its formidable jaws when least expected. If possible, the hook is then removed and the line relaid, leaving the body to be skinned in the morning. We then return to the bungalow, con- tinuing to visit the lines at intervals during the night.
It is a most interesting pastime on a bright moonlight night to lie concealed on the bund where a line is set, and watch crocodiles in the act of taking the bait. They are very suspicious and shy in their natural state, and one must, therefore, keep out of sight and remain per- fectly still, as on the slightest movement being noticed they sink at once below the surface. They are also so well acquainted with every detail of the tank that even the pole newly fixed up on the bank with its tempting bait creates suspicion for a time, until, becoming accus- tomed to it, they get more fearless. As the flesh on the hook decays, and the exhalation from the putrefying matter gets more pronounced and tempting, it then proves irresistible, and they will swarm round it with just the tips of their eyes and noses above the water. When this happens one of them is pretty sure to make a sudden rush for the bait, rising well out of the water and widely opening its immense jaws to take it in. It is an awe-inspiring sight, creating a feeling of dread as to the terrible fate awaiting one if placed by any unfor- tunate accident in their power.
A leakage usually takes place through the bunds of these tanks, and deep pools are formed on the jungle or land side. When covered with under- growth these pools become favourite haunts for these creatures, and the following incident may show how much on the watch and how careful one must be when engaged in this somewhat hazardous entertain- ment.
ABOUT CROCODILE CATCHING 171
One moonlight night I was lying on the bund of a tank, intently occupied in this sport, with my legs stretched down the slope of the bank in the direction of the jungle. I was looking over the top of the bund, at a number of crocodiles swimming round the bait, expecting every moment to see one rise and take it. I had for some un- known reason an instinctive feeling of being in imminent danger, and this prompted me to quickly turn and look round. I was not a minute too soon. Within a few inches of my feet was a huge crocodile, which had silently climbed up from behind. Suddenly jump- ing up, I so startled the crocodile that it retreated full speed to the safety of its swampy hole amongst the bushes before a shot could be got in. The natural timidity of these reptiles on land is well known, and this no doubt saved my life.
Their fondness for dogs is astonishing. A barking dog near the edge of the water will quickly attract their attention from a considerable distance and bring them to the spot, so those who value their dogs should not take them to these tanks unless led by a leash. Croco- diles not only have an acute sense of smell, but have also wonderful good sight. When floating near the surface of the water, only the tips of the nose and eyes are visible. These are almost unnoticeable amongst the weeds and other floating matter in which they lie, yet they get a clear view of everything going on about them, and with their instinctive cunning will quietly sink below the surface, appearing again almost directly in a most uncanny manner close to the object of attrac- tion, without intimation or the slightest disturbance of the water.
This brings to mind an incident that occurred some few years ago during a picnic at Andan Kulam Tank, a few miles from Trincomalie, at which I was present. A lady of the party, the wife of an artillery officer, had
172 JUNGLE SPORT IN CEYLON
a fine Irish terrier, a great pet, of which she was exceed- ingly fond. In view of this fact, I one day advised her that the dog had two mortal enemies in the Island- namely, the leopard and crocodile. I told her as she valued her dog she should therefore on no account when driving along jungle roads let it run after the trap, but always take it in with her, and if visiting a tank lead it by a leash and never let it run loose along the bunds, or she would surely lose it.
For a few weeks the precaution was carefully observed and all went well, but on the day of the picnic it was relaxed, and, as a special treat, the dog was allowed to run loose just for a little recreation. All were seated on the grassy slope of the bund, a merry party, chatting and enjoying the repast, and the dog was amusing him- self barking and gambolling about near the edge of the water trying to catch little frogs and fish which were jumping and exciting his attention. Suddenly before the eyes, and within a few feet of all present, an immense pair of jaws suddenly opened, took in the dog, and disappeared with it in a second, to, the astonishment of everybody and to the great dismay and grief of the poor lady who owned it.
On another occasion,- while snipe shooting and pass- ing through long grass, I stumbled and fell over what was thought to be a log of a tree. It was on fairly dry ground, and without getting up I turned round and had a look at the obstruction. It was a crocodile, appa- rently fast asleep ; but as it did not move after some considerable time, an idea struck me that it might pos- sibly be dead, so after lighting a pipe I, to make doubly sure, placed the muzzle of my shot-gun close to its arm- pit, and fired a charge of No; 8 shot into it.
There was still no movement, and being now con- vinced it was dead, I took it easy, and continued my smoke, glad of a rest, merely watching the crocodile
ABOUT CROCODILE CATCHING 175
in a contemplative mood. To my utter astonishment I noticed the jaws gradually begin to open, until they were at their full, and then a cloud of smoke was emitted, the jaws closing again by degrees soon after. The cause of this was no doubt shooting at such close quarters, which riot only sent in the charge, but smoke too.
Two friends who were shooting near came up shortly after, and, with their combined assistance, the brute was hauled through the long grass on to a bit of high ground under the shade of a tamarind tree, where the lunch basket was opened and contents spread out on the ground. Then all three sat on the crocodile's back, which made an excellent seat, and were soon busy with the good things provided, when suddenly, to the utter surprise and astonishment of us all, it lashed out with