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NARRATIVE
OF THE
Uist hs AT Es
EXPLORING EXPEDITION,
DURING THE YEARS
1838, 1839, 1840, 1841, 1849.
BY
Gr Ate bes Wl Wek Es, U..S.N.
COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION,
BER OF THE AMERICAN PHILOSOPHICAL SOCIETY, ETC,
IN FIVE VOLUMES, AND AN ATLAS.
VeOie a Ve
PHILADELPHIA:
REA & Bi ANC H A R-D: 1845.
ee
ENTERED, ACCORDING TO THE ACT OF CONGRESS, IN THE YEAR 1844,
BY CHARLES WILKES, U. S. Ney
IN THE CLERK’S OFFICE OF THE DISTRICT COURT FOR THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
2
STEREOTYPED BY J. FAGAN,
PRINTED BY C, SHERMAN,
CONS rN Ts! "OF VO “V.
CH AP EAI, I.
DEPARTURE FROM OAHU — WASHINGTON ISLAND —JARVIS'S ISLAND — MAGNETIC EQUATOR — ENDERBURY’S ISLAND—BIRNIE’'S ISLAND—HULL’S ISLAND—DUKE OF YORK’S ISLAND—ITS NATIVES VISIT THE SHIP—THEIR ALARM AT THE FIRING OF CANNON—A PARTY LANDS—ITS RECEPTION — TATTOOING—VILLAGE—QUAYS—AB- SENCE OF CULTIVATION—MUSIC—CHARACTER OF THE NATIVES — PRODUCTIONS — DUKE OF CLARENCE’S ISLAND—BOWDITCH’S ISLAND—NATIVES SEEN FISHING— INTERVIEW WITH THEM—A PARTY LANDS—PRIEST—CAPTAIN HUDSON LANDS — INTERVIEW WITH THE KING—VILLAGE AND TEMPLE—RELICS OF A VESSEL—WELL — DRUMS—DRESS AND ORNAMENTS—MANUFACTURES AND TOOLS — POPULATION — GENTE HERMOSAS—SAVAII—UPOLU—APIA—STORM OF DECEMBER 1840—HURRICANES —HALOS—PEA, THE CHIEF OF APIA—MODE OF TRADING—IMPROVEMENTS—NEW EFFORTS OF THE MISSIONARIES—MALIETOA’S ILLNESS, AND ITS CAUSE—MOLE— STRONG GALE—DESERTION FROM THE SURVEYING PARTY—DESERTERS RECOVERED —DEMAND FOR THE MURDERER OF SMITH—IT IS REFUSED—EXCURSIONS OF THE NATURALISTS—JOE GIMBLET—VISIT TO MALIETOA—RETURN OF THE BOATS—CAP- TAIN HUDSON PROCEEDS TO SALUAFATA, AND DESTROYS IT—RESULTS OF THE PUNISHMENT—FRUITLESS ATTEMPT TO CAPTURE OPOTUNO—MATAATU—MALIETOA —FAREWELL VISIT FROM THE CHIEFS—THE VESSELS SAIL FROM MATAATU....1—34
CRA PEER. 11.
THE PEACOCK AND TENDER LEAVE THE SAMOAN GROUP—ELLICE’S GROUP—CANOES —ITS NATIVES—THEIR LANGUAGE—DEPEYSTER’S ISLAND—ITS NATIVES—ALBINOS—
(v)
vi CONTENTS.
CLOTHING OF ITS INHABITANTS—THEIR SYMBOL OF PEACE—WOMAN AND CHIEF OF THE ISLAND—FOOD OF THE NATIVES—HARBOUR—VISIT FROM THE KING—THE NATIVES’ KNOWLEDGE OF OTHER LANDS—THEIR RELIGION—SPEIDEN’S ISLAND— HUDSON’S ISLAND—ST. AUGUSTINE—DRUMMOND’S ISLAND—ITS NATIVES — THEIR HEAD-DRESS—THEIR LANGUAGE—THEIR WEAPONS—THEIR DEFENSIVE ARMOUR— THEIR ORNAMENTS—THEIR CANOES—A PARTY LANDS AT UTIROA—ITS RECEPTION —RUDENESS AND PILFERING OF THE NATIVES—DANCE—SECOND VISIT TO UTIROA —RECEPTION IN THE COUNCIL-HOUSE—INCREASED RUDENESS OF THE NATIVES— ONE OF THE SEAMEN MISSING—MESSAGE SENT TO THE UTIROANS—TOWNS ON DRUMMOND'S ISLAND—DETERMINATION TO PUNISH UTIROA FOR THE MURDER— EXPEDITION AGAINST THAT TOWN— PARLEY WITH ITS INHABITANTS — UTIROA BURNT —CONDUCT OF THE NATIVES OF ETA—CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE OF DRUMMOND’S ISLAND —SUPPLIES FOR SHIPS—BISHOP’S ISLAND — HENDERVILLE ISLAND—HALL’S ISLAND—APAMAMA—JOHN KIRBY TAKEN ON BOARD—WOODLE'S ISLAND—DISGRACEFUL CONDUCT OF AN ENGLISH WHALER—ERRORS OF CHARTS— TARAWA—APIA—IDOL—THE TENDER GROUNDS—DRIFT OF THE PEACOCK—THREAT- ENED ATTACK ON THE TENDER—MATTHEW’S ISLAND—PITT’S ISLAND —MAKIN— ROBERT WOOD TAKEN ON BOARD—NATIVES OF PITT’S ISLAND—THEIR CANOES— THEIR TREATMENT OF FEMALES—KING TEKERE AND HIS RELATIVES—A NATIVE DESIRES TO BE TAKEN FROM THE ISLAND........-..0005 a ols o/sVelevelohelore’wlelsielsis]s\sfale tee dI—T5
Cat AP TERS
SOURCES OF INFORMATION IN RELATION TO THE KINGSMILL GROUP—ISLANDS OF WHICH IT IS COMPOSED—THEIR GENERAL CHARACTER—THEIR SOIL—TARO-PONDS— TRADITION OF THE ORIGIN OF THE PEOPLE—ANCIENT INTERCOURSE BETWEEN THE ISLANDS—PHYSIOGNOMY AND APPEARANCE OF THE NATIVES—THEIR SOCIAL STATE—GOVERNMENT— DESCENT OF PROPERTY—RELIGIOUS BELIEF—PRIESTS—ORA- CLES—OMENS—PRETENDED COMMUNICATION WITH SPIRITS—BELIEF IN A FUTURE STATE—THEIR ELYSIUM—THEIR MODE OF LIFE—THEIR CHARACTER—THEIR TREAT- MENT OF CHILDREN, OF THE AGED, AND OF WOMEN—THEIR WARS—CANNIBALISM NOT PRACTISED — THEIR WEAPONS— THEIR HOUSES AND CANOES—THEIR MANU- FACTURES — DRESS — ORNAMENTS—THEIR FOOD—THEIR MODE OF COOKING—THEIR AMUSEMENTS—THEIR MARRIAGES—MODE OF GIVING NAMES—PRACTICE OF ABOR- TION—TATTOOING—FUNERAL CEREMONIES — DISEASES—CLIMATE OF THE GROUP— EARTHQUAKES — POPULATION — THEIR INTERCOURSE WITH STRANGERS — THEIR PRONENESS TO SUICIDE—THEIR IDEA OF AN ACCOMPLISHED PERSON—CONTRAST BETWEEN PITT’S AND THE OTHER ISLANDERS—DEPARTURE OF THE PEACOCK AND FLYING-FISH FROM THE KINGSMILL GROUP—THEIR CREWS PUT ON SHORT ALLOW- ANCE — PESCADORES — KORSAKOFF—OBJECTS REMAINING UNACCOMPLISHED—SEPA- RATION OF THE VESSELS—LARGE QUANTITIES OF MOLLUSC/E—SHIP MAGNOLIA— OAHU—ARRIVAL AT AND DEPARTURE FROM HONOLULU—REACH COLUMBIA RIVER.
77—110
CONTENTS. vii
CePA Rn ky SV:
PREPARATIONS FOR THE SURVEY OF THE COLUMBIA—DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS— BAKER’S BAY—LIEUTENANT DE HAVEN SENT TO MEET MR. ELD—RAMSEY AND GEORGE, THE PILOTS—RETURN TO ASTORIA—PURCHASE OF A BRIG—MESSRS. HALE AND DANA GO WITH DR. MLAUGHLIN—TRADE WITH THE INDIANS—SUPERSTITIONS OF THE INDIANS—SURVEY RESUMED—TONGUE POINT— THE VESSELS GROUND — WAIKAIKUM—PREVALENCE OF FEVER AND AGUE—PILLAR ROCK—BOAT CAPSIZED —KATALAMET POINT—LIEUTENANT EMMONS ORDERED TO SAN FRANCISCO—FIRE ON MOUNT COFFIN—PORPOISE GROUNDS AGAIN—WARRIOR’S POINT—V ANCOUVER— SIR GEORGE SIMPSON—DIVIDENDS OF THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY—FORMAL DINNER —CHANGED APPEARANCE OF VANCOUVER—OBSERVATIONS AT VANCOUVER—ARRI- VAL OF MR. ELD’S PARTY—HIS. EXPEDITION—HIS ‘DEPARTURE FROM -NISQUALLY— SQUAW CHIEF— PORTAGE TO THE SACHAL—LAKES—EMBARKATION AND DESCENT OF THE SACHAL—COUNTRY ON THE CHICKEELES—CARVED PLANKS—MR. ELD ENTERS GRAY’S HARBOUR—THE INDIANS. REFUSE HIM -AID—DIFFICULTIES ATTEND- ING THE SURVEY—MR. ELD’S PARTY IS RELIEVED BY LIEUTENANT DE HAVEN— SURVEY OF THE RIVER COMPLETED—CHARACTER OF GRAY’S HARBOUR—INDIANS OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD—DEPARTURE FROM GRAY’S HARBOUR—PASSAGE ALONG THE COAST—ARRIVAL OF MR. ELD AT ASTORIA—ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDI.- TION TO CALIFORNIA—DEPARTURE FROM VANCOUVER—POSTS OF THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY—TRADE OF THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY—CLIMATE OF OREGON—WINDS— FEVER AND AGUE—INDIAN POPULATION—PROGRESS DOWN THE RIVER—LETTERS FROM THE UNITED STATES—DEEP WATER—SURVEY OF THE COWLITZ — PUGET ISLAND—PILLAR ROCK—CHANNEL AT TONGUE POINT—RETURN TO ASTORIA—POR- POISE ANCHORS AT ASTORIA—PRIMEVAL FOREST — PREPARATIONS FOR PASSING THE BAR—DISPOSITION MADE OF THE PEACOCK’S LAUNCH—BAR PASSED—SURVEYS COMPLETED —ORNAMENTS, NORTHWEST COAST—WE SAIL FOR SAN FRANCISCO— LETTER OF THANKS TO DR. MLAUGHLIN—VOYAGE TO SAN FRANCISCO—ARRIVAL THERE—LAUNCH DESPATCHED TO MEET LIEUTENANT EMMONG........+.-0++++113—148
CHAPTER V:
ARRIVAL OF THE VINCENNES AT SAN FRANCISCO—PREPARATIONS FOR THE SUR- VEYS — SAUSALITO — LONG DROUGHT — PRESIDIO— ALCALDE OF YERBA BUENA — TOWN OF YERBA BUENA—UNSETTLED STATE OF CALIFORNIA—CLIMATE OF SAN FRANCISCO—SOIL—CLIMATE OF CALIFORNIA — RIVERS—HARBOURS—TRADE—MANU- FACTURE OF WINE—INDUSTRY — MILLS —SHEEP—SWINE—MAGISTRATES AND AD- MINISTRATION OF JUSTICE—REVOLUTIONS OF CALIFORNIA—OPINIONS IN RELATION TO THEM—RELATIONS WITH MEXICO—MODE OF RECRUITING FOR THE MISSIONS—
Vill CONTENTS.
PRESENT CONDITION OF THE INDIANS—CHANGE IN THE ADMINISTRATION OF THE MISSIONS—ITS EFFECTS ON THE INDIANS— THEIR NUMBERS—NUMBERS OF THE WHITES—THEIR HEALTH—THEIR CHARACTER—THEIR MORALS—THEIR HOSPITALITY —THEIR CRUELTY—EXPEDITION UP THE SACRAMENTO—BAY OF SAN PABLO—DELTA OF THE SACRAMENTO—CAPTAIN SUTER—NEW HELVETIA—CAPTAIN SUTER’S FARM- ING AND OTHER AVOCATIONS—INDIAN DANCE—DISEASES—ROUTE TO OREGON— DEPARTURE FROM NEW HELVETIA—FEATHER RIVER—GAME—THE TULA—INDIANS —BEARS—INTERVIEW WITH A CHIEF—MANNERS, ETC., OF THE INDIANS—THEIR RANCHERIA—THEFT BY AN INDIAN—BUTE PRAIRIE—FISH-WEIR—KINKLA TRIBE— HUNTING—RETURN TO NEW HELVETIA—AMERICAN SETTLERS—INDIAN VILLAGES— OCCUPATIONS OF THE TWO SEXES—ARIDITY OF THE COUNTRY—CROPS—ANIMALS— RETURN OF SURVEYING PARTY TO THE VINCENNES—VISITS OF THE INHABITANTS TO THE SHIP—MARTINEZ FAMILY—AMUSEMENTS—CAPTAIN RICHARDSON—VALLEY OF NAPPA—TOWN OF ZONOMA—GENERAL VALLEJO— MISSION OF SAN RAFAEL— FETE IN HONOUR OF A SAINT—BEAR AND BULL FIGHT—EXCURSION TO SANTA CLARA—EMBARCADERO—ESTANCIA OF PERALTOS—DON MIGUEL DE PEDRORENA— MISSION OF SANTA CLARA—PADRE MERCADOR—CHURCH OF SANTA CLARA—GAR- DEN—PUEBLO OF SAN JOSE—ITS ALCALDE— MODE OF CONDUCTING BUSINESS IN CALIFORNIA — DIFFICULTY IN PROCURING HORSES— DEPARTURE FROM SANTA CLARA — CALIFORNIAN HORSEMAN — RANCHEROS — LAS PULGAS—ESTANCIA OF SENOR SANCHEZ—YERBA BUENA—RETURN TO THE SHIP.......00seseeeeeeeeees » +. 149—214
CHAPTER VI.
EQUIPMENT OF LIEUTENANT EMMONS'S PARTY —MULTUNOMAH ISLAND — DIFFI- CULTIES — SICKNESS — INEFFICIENCY OF SOME OF THE MEN—SETTLERS ON THE WILLAMETTE — MISSIONARIES— THOMAS M’KAY— DEPARTURE FROM THE WILLA- METTE— ENCAMPMENT AT TURNER’S— UPPER VALLEY OF THE WILLAMETTE — CREOLE AND IGNAS CREEKS — LAKE GUARDIPII— WOLVES— MALE CREEK — ELK MOUNTAINS— ELK. RIVER—FORT UMPQUA—HOSTILE BEARING OF THE INDIANS— PREPARATIONS FOR DEFENCE—NEW SPECIES OF OAK—DISCONTENT OF THE TRAP- PERS—FIRE IN THE PRAIRIES—BILLEY’S CREEK—FORD OF THE UMPQUA—ANIMALS —INDIAN SCOUTS—GRISLY BEARS—INDIAN FOUND IN THE CAMP—UMPQUA MOUN- TAINS—SHASTE COUNTRY—YOUNG’S CREEK—PINE SUGAR—ROGUES’ RIVER—INASS SURPRISED BY INDIANS—SCENES OF FORMER CONFLICTS WITH INDIANS—FRIENDLY INDIANS — SUFFERINGS FROM THE AGUE— THREATENED ATTACK — ANTELOPES — RABBITS — BOUNDARY MOUNTAINS— EMMONS’S PEAK — MOUNT SHASTE— KLAMET RIVER—INTERVIEW WITH INDIANS—SHASTE INDIANS—THEIR SKILL IN ARCHERY— SHASTE RANGE—LARGE PINES —CHALYBEATE SPRING — DESTRUCTION RIVER — VALLEY OF THE SACRAMENTO—KINKLA INDIANS—THEIR VILLAGE—FAILURE TO OBTAIN CANOES—FORD OF THE SACRAMENTO—BUTES—FEATHER RIVER—CAPTAIN SUTER’S—RELICS OF AN EXTINCT TRIBE—THE PARTY DIVIDED—RIVER SAN JOA-
CONTENTS. 1X
CHIM—MISSION OF SAN JOSE—SANTA CLARA—YERBA BUENA—NOSTRA SENORA DE LOS DOLORES—THE LAND DIVISION REACHES THE VINCENNES—RESULTS OF THE EXPEDITION—CLOSING SCENE........ aleteletetctsfatefeltfatsfetYeleys)sier= nagapoonpuodoponodacesodnodd 215—250
CHAPTER VII.
PREPARATIONS FOR SAILING—NEW DISTRIBUTION OF OFFICERS—LIEUTENANT CARR APPOINTED TO THE COMMAND OF THE OREGON—PLAN OF OPERATIONS—DEPAR- TURE FROM SAN FRANCISCO—DANGEROUS POSITION OF THE VINCENNES—DEATH OF A MARINE—HIS BURIAL—SEARCH FOR COPPER’S ISLAND—PAILOLO CHANNBEL— ARRIVAL AND RECEPTON AT HONOLULU—CASE OF HERRON, THE COOPER—TRADE OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS—THEIR POLITICAL RELATIONS—THEIR FUTURE FROS.- PECTS—FINAL DEPARTURE FROM THEM—THE BRIGS PART COMPANY—INSTRUCTIONS TO MR. KNOX—THE FLYING-FISH PARTS COMPANY—SEARCH FOR MALOON’S, JANE’S AND CORNWALLIS ISLANDS — WAKE’S ISLAND—SEARCH FOR HALCYON AND FOL- GER’S ISLANDS—LADRONE ISLANDS—GRIGAN—SEARCH FOR COPPER’S ISLAND— SABTANG AND BATAN—CAPE CAPONES—FLYING-FISH REJOINS THE VINCENNES— WE ANCHOR IN TEE BAY OF MANILLA—GOVERNMENT GALLEY —CRUISE OF THE FLYING-FISH—SEARCH FOR CORNWALLIS ISLAND—REEF DISCOVERED—SEARCH FOR SAN PABLO—MULGRAVE ISLANDS—BAPHAM’S, HUNTER’S, AND BARING’S ISLANDS— MPKENZIE'S GROUP..... 2.02. cece cece cece ence eens e nent eee e eee n tees eet ee tee eeeneeeenee 251—272
CHAR EE Re Vv DET:
ARRIVAL AT MANILLA—VISIT FROM THE CAPTAIN OF THE PORT— VIEW OF THE CITY —LANDING AT MANILLA — ANCHORAGE — PORT OF CAVITE—CITY AND ITS BUILDINGS—ITS POPULATION—KIND RECEPTION BY THE AMERICAN CONSUL—WANT OF FACILITIES FOR REPAIRS—CITY GOVERNMENT — DISCOVERY AND OCCUPATION OF THE PHILIPPINES—POLICY OF THE CONQUERORS—GEOLOGICAL FEATURES OF THE ISLANDS—PRODUCTIONS AND AGRICULTURE— AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS — USE OF THE BUFFALO—CULTURE OF RICE—MANILLA HEMP—COFFEE—SUG AR—COT- TON—MODE OF TAKING PRODUCE TO MARKET—PROFITS OF AGRICULTURE—LABOUR —RAVAGES OF LOCUSTS—INHABITANTS—NATIVE TRIBES—POLICY OF THE GOVERN- MENT—CAPABILITIES FOR COMMERCE—MILITARY FORCE—INTERNAL DISTURBANCES —VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR—TENURE AND EMOLUMENTS OF HIS OFFICE—VISITS TO GOVERNMENT OFFICERS—CAPTAINS SALOMON AND HALCON—ROYAL CIGAR MANUFACTORY—MANUFACTURES — PINA— DANCING-MASTER AND PUPIL—OCCUPA- TIONS OF THE HIGHER CLASSES—MARRIAGES—DRIVE ON THE PRADO—THEATRE— TERTULIA— DRESS OF THE NATIVES —COCK-FIGHTING—MARKET— FISHING-BOATS— BANCA—TRADE OF MANILLA—ENVIRONS OF THE CITY—CAMPO SANTO—BELLS AND BELFRIES—CONVENT—TAGALA TRIBE—TAGALA GRAMMAR—REVENUE OF THE PHI-
LIPPINES—SYSTEM OF GOVERNMENT—EXPEDITION TO THE INTERIOR—SANTA ANNA VOL. V., B
x CONTENTS.
— PATIVAS—FISHERIES ON THE RIVER AND LAKE—LAGUNA DE BAY—JALUJALU— SANTA CRUZ—MISSION OF MAGJAIJAI—ASCENT OF MOUNT MAGJAIJAI—RETURN TO THE MISSION—INSTANCE OF ECCLESIASTICAL DISCIPLINE—BAIA—HOT SPRINGS OF BANOS—ASCENT OF MOUNT MAQUILING—LAKE DE TAAL—BANOS—MULTITUDE OF BIRDS—SCENERY ON THE PASIG—RETURN TO MANILLA—PREPARATIONS FOR SAIL- ING—DEPARTURE FROM MANILLA....--++++. Sesisence eee o) a iwele uieieise eleisle co clnvicion'selsalsetio— ale
CHAPTER IX.
DEPARTURE FROM MANILLA—INSTRUCTIONS TO MR. KNOX—MINDORO—SEMARARA— PANAY—FLYING-FISH LEAVES US—BAY OF ANTIQUE—SAN JOSE—~MINDANAO—CAL- DERA—FORESTS OF MINDANAO—SANGBOYS—SOOLOO—SOUNG—CANOES OF SOOLOO— WE LAND AT SOOLOO—VISIT TO THE DATU MULU—HIS RESIDENCE—VISIT TO THE SULTAN—HIS RESIDENCE—HIS PERSON AND DRESS—TREATY MADE WITH HIM—THE HEIR APPARENT—WE ARE REFUSED PERMISSION TO VISIT THE INTERIOR—PISTOL STOLEN—CHINESE QUARTER—THE KRIS—MARKET—BLOCKS OF AMERICAN GRANITE —STOLEN PISTOL RETURNED—VISIT OF THE NATURALISTS TO MARONGAS—FISHING APPARATUS— SURVEY OF THE HARBOUR OF SOUNG—SLAVES EMPLOYED AS AC- COUNTANTS— BEASTS OF BURDEN—PROHIBITION OF SWINE—CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE OF SOOLOO—THEIR DRESS—OCCUPATIONS—STATE OF SOCIETY—MOUNTAIN TRIBES—FORTS—POPULATION—COMMERCE—DUTIES—ADVICE TO TRADERS—POSSIBLE EXTENSION OF TRADE—HISTORY OF SOOLOO—ATTEMPT OF THE ENGLISH EAST INDIA COMPANY TO OPEN A TRADE—ATTEMPTS AT CONQUEST BY THE SPANIARDS —GRANT OF BALAMBANGAN TO THE EAST INDIA COMPANY—ENGLISH SETTLEMENT —ITS FATE—FORMER PROSPERITY OF SOOLOO—PIRACIES OF THE SOOLOOS—MALAY PIRATES— THE BAJOWS—THEIR CHARACTER —CLIMATE OF SOOLOO— DISEASES— RELIGION —DEPARTURE FROM SOOLOO—PANGOOTAARAANG—CAGAYAN SOOLOO — MANGSEE ISLANDS — SURVEYS — BALAMBANGAN — BORNEO—THE DYACKS — THEIR CHARACTER, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS—NAVIGATION OF THE SOOLOO SEA—PAS- SAGE TO SINGAPORE—ARRIVAL THERE—REUNION OF THE SQUADRON — PROCEED- INGS OF THE PORPOISE AND OREGON—NECKER ISLAND—FRENCH-FRIGATE SHOAL— IMAIROMREER sets ciclo lsisieicieiewcteielsivesieieivie oferslvicieleweinrsisfeleiels tates ieteebals wivinle eiofelelelolelsheleteretettetsisters e+e -321—367
CHAPTER X.
VARIETY OF SHIPPING IN THE ROADS—VIEW OF THE TOWN — AMERICAN CONSUL —ENTRANCE OF THE RIVER— LANDING — VIEW FROM THE CONSULATE — GREAT VARIETY OF COSTUMES, RACES, RELIGIONS, AND LANGUAGES—POLICE AND MILI- TARY FORCE—HISTORY OF THE SETTLEMENT OF SINGAPORE—iITS GOVERNMENT— TREATY OF 1824— POLICY OF HOLLAND —CHEAPNESS OF BUILDING — SOCIETY — ISLAND OF SINGAPORE—TIGERS— BOTANY AND CULTIVATED PLANTS— MODE OF CONVEYANCE — CHINESE INHABITANTS — THEIR GAMBLING — THEIR APPEARANCE
CONTENTS. 4
AND DRESS—THEIR TEMPLE—THEIR FESTIVAL OF THE NEW YEAR—THEIR THEATRI- CALS—THEIR FUNERALS—FESTIVAL OF THE SHIITE MAHOMEDANS—AMUSEMENTS OF THE GENTOOS—BANISHED BRAHMIN—MAHOMEDAN SECTS—CONVICTS—MARKET— CURRENCY—TRADES—MALAYS—ARMENIANS—PARSEES—ARABS—CAFFRES—MIXTURE OF RACES—CHINESE CEMETERY—GENTOO BURIAL-PLACE—MAGNETIC OBSERVATORY —AMERICAN MISSIONARIES—PAPUAN SLAVES—MANUSCRIPTS—SHIP OF THE KING OF COCHIN-CHINA—CHINESE JUNKS— TRADE OF SINGAPORE—TAXES—SLAVERY—OPIUM SHOPS—SMALL PROPORTION OF FEMALES IN THE POPULATION — PENINSULA OF MALACCA —ITS GOVERNMENT —ITS RELIGION —MALAY CEREMONIES AT BIRTHS, MARRIAGES, AND FUNERALS—MALAY SACRIFICES—ANIMALS OF MALAYAN PENIN- SULA—PROBABLE INFLUENCE OF STEAM ON THE TRADE OF THE EAST—RAVAGES OF THE WHITE ANTS—CLIMATE OF SINGAPORE—SALE OF FLYING-FISH — DEPAR- TURE FROM SINGAPORE... ..-s.eessseeseseeeees ee ae poobndobnso0cs008G0nN00 oo 371—410
HAGE Bary x1:
DEPARTURE FROM SINGAPORE—STRAITS OF RHIO—STRAITS OF BANCA—STRAITS OF SUNDA—INDIAN OCEAN—CURRENTS AND METEOROLOGICAL PHENOMENA OFF THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE—ARRIVAL IN TABLE BAY—CAPE TOWN—GOVERNMENT OF THE COLONY—TAXES—BANKING—WINE TRADE—CATTLE—IMPORT TRADE—HOTTENTOTS —CAFFRE TRIBES—VISIT TO CONSTANTIA—ASTRONOMY AND MAGNETIC OBSERVA- TIONS—ASCENT OF 'TABLE MOUNTAIN—GREEN POINT—LIGHTHOUSE—EXCHANGE— GARDEN OF THE BARON VON LUDWIG—CLIMATE OF THE CAPE—PHENOMENA OF REFRACTION—TENURES OF LAND—DEPARTURE FROM TABLE BAY—VOYAGE TO ST. HELENA — JAMESTOWN — VISIT TO THE TOMB OF NAPOLEON AND LONGWOOD ~ MAGNETIC OBSERVATORY—PLANTATION-HOUSE—DEPARTURE FROM ST. HELENA ~ PASSAGE TO THE UNITED STATES—ARRIVAL AT NEW YORK—CONCLUSION.. 413—453
GHA PER XE
CONNEXION OF THE SUBJECTS— OPPORTUNITIES AND MEANS OF OBSERVING CUR- RENTS — DISTINCTION BETWEEN STREAMS AND CURRENTS—CURRENTS OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC—LABRADOR STREAM—GULF STREAM—RENNELL CURRENT—SUB- MARINE POLAR STREAMS—GUINEA STREAM—EQUATORIAL STREAM—RECAPITULA- TION—SARGASSO SEA—STREAMS OF THE SOUTH ATLANTIC— BRAZIL STREAM — PATAGONIAN STREAM—SOUTH AFRICAN STREAM—PHENOMENA OF THE NEIGHBOUR- HOOD OF ST. HELENA—POLAR STREAM OFF CAPE HORN—ITS LOW SUBMARINE TEMPERATURE—CHILI STREAM—PHENOMENA AT THE GALLIPAGOS ISLANDS—INDI.- CATION OF SUBMARINE POLAR STREAMS—PHENOMENA AT THE SOCIETY ISLANDS~— AT THE SAMOAN GROUP—AT THE FEEJEE GROUP—AUSTRALIAN STREAM—SOUTH- ERN POLAR STREAM—NEW ZEALAND CURRENTS—CURRENTS BETWEEN TONGA AND FEEJEE—SUDDEN RUSH OF WATERS ON THE POLYNESIAN ISLANDS—SPACE OF VERY
xii CONTENTS.
ELEVATED TEMPERATURE—PACIFIC EQUATORIAL STREAMS—PHENOMENA OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS—STREAMS OF THE NORTHWEST COAST—JAPAN STREAM—CUR- RENTS OF THE CHINA SEAS—OF THE EAST COAST OF AFRICA — EQUATORIAL STREAM OF THE INDIAN OCEAN—CURRENTS OF THE MALABAR COAST, CHAGOS, AND COMORRO ISLANDS—STREAMS OF THE MOZAMBIQUE CHANNEL—EQUATORIAL STREAM OF THE SOUTH ATLANTIC—GENERAL VIEW OF THE FACTS— ZONES OF CALMS AND STILL WATERS—SUGGESTIONS IN RELATION TO THE THEORY OF CUR- RENTS —CONNEXION OF THE OCEAN STREAMS WITH THE MIGRATIONS OF THE SPERM WHALE—IMPORTANCE AND EXTENT OF THE WHALING INTEREST—CRUIS- ING-GROUNDS OF SPERM WHALERS—IN THE PACIFIC—IN THE ATLANTIC—IN THE [INDIAN OCEAN—DIRECTIONS FOR WHALING IN THE PACIFIC—RELATIVE TO THE DECREASE OF WHALES—RIGHT WHALE FISHERY—DEPRAVED CHARACTER OF THE NEW ZEALAND AND AUSTRALIAN WHALERS—CASE OF THE AMERICAN WHALE- SHIP ADELINE— RIGHT WHALE FISHERY IN HIGH LATITUDES— EXCITEMENT OF THE FISHERY—SLAUGHTER AND TREATMENT OF THE PRODUCTS—PROFITS OF THE BUSINESS—FREQUENCY OF DISPUTES BETWEEN THE MASTERS AND CREWS—REME- DIES SUGGESTED—PROPOSAL FOR THE IMPROVEMENT OF THE MORALS AND CONDI- TION OF THE CREWS....+. cece rere ras Myeloncjoernfoiskelauaisielensvelotetteleya\elst siete tererenite veveverees ee Aa7—d02
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
OaraFu IsLAND.
Fakaaro or Bownitcu Isuanp. Ficus or Banyan TREE. Utiroa.
Mariara.
Curer oF Eta,
ASTORIA.
Pine Forest, Orecon. SuasteE Peak. EncaMPMENT, SACRAMENTO. Mania.
Manitua Cortace. Mosque, Sootoo.
Son oF Suitan, Sootoo.
CuInesE TEMPLE.
VOLUME V.
PLATES.
Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by W. E. Tucker, Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. Smillie, Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by Rawdon, Wright and Hatch, Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by T. House, Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by Rawdon, Wright and Hatch, Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. Paradise, Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by Rawdon, Wright and Hatch, Sketched by J. Drayton. Engraved by W. E. Tucker, Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by G. B. Ellis, Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. W. Steel, Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. A. Rolph, Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. Smillie, Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. B. Neagle, Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by F. Halpin, Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. A. Rolph.
(xiil)
113
116
240
245
275
292
333
SO
371
xiv LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
VIGNETTES.
TRapING, APIA. Sketched by A. T, Agate. Engraved by E. Gallaudet, [NpIAN Buriat-Pace. Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. Smillie, VINCENNES ON Bar. Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by A. W. Graham, Rice Stacks, Sketched by J. Drayton. Engraved by J. Smillie, Lonewoop. Sketched by A. T. Agate.
Engraved by Smillie and Hinchelwood,
WOOD-CUTS.
Union Istann Canor. Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. H. Pease, Bowpitcn IstannEr. Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. H. Pease, Dritt. From the Collection.* Engraved by R. 8. Gilbert, Maretau. Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. 8. Gilbert, Bowpitcu Istanpers. Drawn by A. T, Agate.* Engraved by J. J. Butler, Euice’s IsLanper. Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. H. Pease, Costume, Exticr’s Group. Drawn by A. T. Agate.* Engraved by R. H. Pease, Drummonv’s Istanper. Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. 8. Gilbert,
Drummonn’s Istanp Warriors. Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. 8. Gilbert,
KincsMiLi Canok, Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. 8S. Gilbert,
Woman, Drummonn’s Istanp. Drawn by A. T. Agate.* Engraved by R. 8. Gilbert,
Giri, Peru Isianp. Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. 8S. Gilbert,
Makin Isianver, Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. 8. Gilbert, KcinesM1LL Arms. From the Collection.* Engraved by T. H. Mumford, Innasitant oF Makin. Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by T. H. Mumford, Kinesmiuu Inou. Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. J. Butler, Ramsey. Drawn by C. Wilkes, U.S. N.t Engraved by Clarke, GEORGE. Drawn by C. Wilkes, U.S. N.t_ Engraved by R. O’Brien, Carvep Puianks. Drawn by H. Eld. Engraved by R. 8. Gilbert,
Masks, Nortuwest Inprans. From the Collection. Engraved by J. J. Butler, Pires, Norruwest Inprans. From the Collection. Engraved by J. J. Butler, Harts, Norruwest Coast. From the Collection. Engraved by J. J. Butler, Fisu-weEir. Drawn by Dr. Pickering. Engraved by R. 8. Gilbert, Pounpine Acorns. Drawn by A. T. Agate.* Engraved by J. J. Butler, Inpians GAMBLING. Drawn by A. T. Agate.* Engraved by J. J. Butler, PAckK-sADDLEs, &c., Drawn by C. Wilkes, U.S. N.t Engraved by R. 8. Gilbert, Cauuapuya InpIAN. Drawn by A. T. Agate.* Engraved by R. 8. Gilbert,
Umraua Inpian Girt. Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. J. Butler,
Sacramento Inpian. Drawn by A. T, Agate. Engraved by R. H. Pease, Suaste Hut. Drawn by A. T. Agate.* Engraved by J. J. Butler, JAPANESE, Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. S. Gilbert, Banca, Manitta. Drawn by A. T. Agate.* Engraved by J. J. Butler,
Native or Luzon. Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. J. Butler,
22
219
256
287
445
110 114 114 128 146 146 148 188 192 214 217 223 226 242 250 260 272 292
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. xv
Mantra Costume. Drawn by A. T, Agate.* Engraved by J. J. Butler, 300 Maniira Banca, Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. 8, Gilbert, 302 Neerito Boy, Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. 8. Gilbert, 306 Sworn, Mania, From the Collection.* Engraved by R. S. Gilbert, 306 Harcuet, Manitra. From the Collection.* Engraved by R. S. Gilbert, 306 Environs, Manitta, Drawn by F. D. Stuart. Engraved by R. S. Gilbert, 312 Sarazoa, Manitza, Drawn by J. Drayton. Engraved by J. J. Butler, 319 Catpera Forr. Drawn by J. Drayton. Engraved by J. J. Butler, 328 Sootoo Canor. Drawn by J. Drayton. Engraved by R. S. Gilbert, 333 Housss, Soune, Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R.S. Gilbert, 333 Ruprne, Sootoo. Drawn by J. Drayton.* Engraved by J. J. Butler, 341 Sootoo Arms. From the Collection, Engraved by J. J. Butler, 367 Gentoo Monument. Drawn by T. R. Peale.* Engraved by J. J. Butler, 410 Horrentots. Drawn by A. T. Agate.* Engraved by J. J. Butler, 431 KEFRACTION, Drawn by C. Wilkes, U.S. N. Engraved by R.S. Gilbert. 440 Care or Goop Horr. Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. 8. Gilbert, 453 MAPS. Western Groups, Paciric. Engraved by William Smith, Titre Pace, Catirornia. Engraved by Sherman and Smith, 151 Sooroo Sea. Engraved by Edward Yeager, 323 Currents AND WuHatinc-Grounps. Engraved by Sherman and Smith, 457
Those marked with a *, were drawn on the wood by G. Armstrong ; those marked with at, by J. H. Manning. Those not marked, by the Artists of the Expedition.
CHAPTER IL.
CONTENTS.
DEPARTURE FROM OAHU— WASHINGTON ISLAND —JARVIS'S ISLAND — MAGNETIC EQUATOR — ENDERBURY’S ISLAND — BIRNIE'S ISLAND—HULL’S ISLAND — DUKE OF YORK’S ISLAND—ITS NATIVES VISIT THE SHIP—THEIR ALARM AT THE FIRING OF CANNON—A PARTY LANDS—ITS RECEPTION — TATTOOING — VILLAGE— QUAYS—AB- SENCE OF CULTIVATION — MUSIC —CHARACTER OF THE NATIVES — PRODUCTIONS — DUKE OF CLARENCE’S ISLAND — BOWDITCH’S ISLAND— NATIVES SEEN FISHING — INTERVIEW WITH THEM—A PARTY LANDS—PRIEST—CAPTAIN HUDSON LANDS — INTERVIEW WITH THE KING—VILLAGE AND TEMPLE—RELICS OF A VESSEL—WELL — DRUMS—DRESS AND ORNAMENTS— MANUFACTURES AND TOOLS — POPULATION — GENTE HERMOSAS—SAVAJI—UPOLU—APIA—STORM OF DECEMBER 1840 — HURRICANES —HALOS— PEA, THE CHIEF OF APIA—MODE OF TRADING — IMPROVEMENTS — NEW EFFORTS OF THE MISSIONARIES — MALIETOA’S ILLNESS, AND ITS CAUSE—MOLE— STRONG GALE—DESERTION FROM THE SURVEYING PARTY—DESERTERS RECOVERED —DEMAND FOR THE MURDERER OF SMITH—IT IS REFUSED— EXCURSIONS OF THE NATURALISTS—JOE GIMBLET—VISIT TO MALIETOA—RETURN OF THE BOATS—CAP- TAIN HUDSON PROCEEDS TO SALUAFATA, AND DESTROYS IT—RESULTS OF THE PUNISHMENT—FRUITLESS ATTEMPT TO CAPTURE OPOTUNO—MATAATU—MALIETOA
—FAREWELL VISIT FROM THE CHIEFS—THE VESSELS SAIL FROM MATAATU. A
NARRATIVE
OF
THE EXPLORING EXPEDITION.
CHAPTER I. BOWDITCH ISLAND. 1840.
As has before been stated, the Peacock and Flying-Fish left Oahu on the 2d December, 1840, under instructions which will be found in Appendix VIII., Vol. IV. They steered off to the southward until they reached the latitude of 5° N., and longitude 160° W., a position in which it was thought that an island existed. This position was carefully examined, until they were satisfied that there was no land at or near the locality. They then steered for Washington Island, known on the chart of Arrowsmith as New York Island, which was found and surveyed. Its position is in latitude 4° 41’ 35” N., and longitude 160° 15’ 37’ W. It is three and a quarter miles long by one and a fourth wide, and is entirely covered with cocoa-nut and other trees, exhibiting a most luxuriant growth. There is a reef off its eastern point, which extends for half a mile. At the western end, a coral ledge extends two miles in a northwest-by-west direction, on which the water appears much discoloured, but the sea was not seen to break upon it, except close to the point of the island. ‘The island is elevated about ten feet above the sea. The surf proved too heavy to allow of
(3)
4 BOWDITCH ISLAND.
their landing, and the island affords no anchorage. While off this island, the current was found setting to the northeast, at the rate of twelve miles in the twenty-four hours.
The positions in this neighbourhood where five islands have been reported to exist, were diligently searched for eight days; but no land was seen, and Captain Hudson became satisfied that none but Wash- ington Island is to be found.
On the 20th December, they made Jarvis’s Island, in latitude 0° 22’ 33” S., and longitude 159° 54' 11" W. This is a small coral island, triangular in shape, a mile and three-fourths in length east and west, and a mile wide north and south. It exhibits the appearance of a white sand-beach, ten or twelve feet above the sea, without a tree or shrub, and but a few patches of grass. The sea breaks violently around its shores, but no reef extends to any distance from the island, which may be closely approached. A few sea-birds were seen about the island. No landing could be attempted, the surf being too heavy. Captain Hudson considers this a dangerous island for navigators.
The Peacock and Flying-Fish, for the next fifteen days, were en- gaged in searching for Brooks’s Island, Clark’s Reef and various shoals; but without success, and, after examining the neighbouring sea, left the locality, fully satisfied that if any islands or shoals had existed, in or near the places assigned to them, they must have been seen. They experienced here a current, setting to the westward at the rate of a mile an hour. Captain Hudson remarked, that although they had experienced generally a current setting to the westward, yet, almost invariably, the current-log gave a contrary result.
In latitude 2° 55’ S., longitude 160° 26’ W., they found, by the dipping-needle, that they had reached the magnetic equator, which they followed until they reached longitude 171° W.
On the 9th January, 1841, they made Enderbury’s Island, of the Phoenix Group, which has before been spoken of, as seen in the route of the Vincennes from the Feejee to the Sandwich Islands.
On the 11th, they made and surveyed Birnie’s Island, which lies southwest from Enderbury’s, in latitude 3° 34’ 15” S., longitude 171° 33’ W. It has an elevation of no more than six feet above the sea; is about one mile long and a quarter of a mile wide, trending about northwest and southeast. It is but a strip of coral, apparently uplifted, and is exceedingly dangerous for vessels, as it cannot be seen from a distance, and a vessel, in thick weather, would scarcely have time to avoid it after it was discovered.
A number of islands and reefs, reported to exist, were searched for in this neighbourhood, viz.: Mary Balcout’s, Brothers’, Robertson’s,
BOWDITCH ISLAND. 5
Pheenix, Harper’s, and others, laid down, but not named, all of which are believed to have no existence whatever.
On the 17th January they made Hull’s Island, which has already been described, and was surveyed by the Vincennes. The party of Tahitians employed in taking turtles had left it. Captain Hudson, believing this to be Sydney Island, ran off forty-five miles to the west- ward, for Hull’s Island, but, of course, saw nothing of it, as it lies that distance to the eastward, in the same latitude.
The position of an island supposed to exist in latitude 5° 23'S., and longitude 173° 25’ W., was passed, but no signs of land were seen. They then ran over the supposed place of Fletcher’s Island, in latitude 7° 02' S., longitude 173° 22' W., without seeing any shoal, island, or reef.
The effects of the rainy season were now felt in these latitudes, in sudden gusts of wind, with torrents of rain, that continued for a few hours of the night, and cleared up partially towards sunrise, after which the weather continued cloudy throughout the day, with squalls visible in various parts of the horizon. Our experience corroborated the generally conceived idea that this kind of weather usually occurs near small islands; but that these isolated spots, of such comparatively small size, can exert so great an influence in arresting and condensing the vapour, is not to me a satisfactory explanation. I am rather inclined to believe that it results more from the fact of the high tem- perature of the ocean in the neighbourhood, it being here nearly 90°, or several degrees greater than that of any other part of the ocean; consequently, the evaporation would go on much more rapidly, which, becoming condensed in the higher portion of the atmosphere, is again thrown down in copious streams at night. This is particularly the case when the trade-winds are interrupted, that would otherwise carry off the vapour. As far as respects the interrupting or arresting the flow of currents, these islands may exert some influence; but the main cause | should be inclined to impute to the high temperature acquired by the water in consequence of there being no currents.
The next day they proceeded to the Duke of York’s Island, which they made on the 25th, in latitude 8° 36’ S., longitude 172° 23' 52” W. This is a lagoon island, of coral formation: its length east and west is three miles, and its width two and a half miles, north and south. There is no passage into the lagoon; the sea breaks on the reef with violence; but at high water a boat may pass over without difficulty, if proper care is taken. The islets that have been formed on the reef are eight or ten feet above the water, and are covered with
cocoa-nut and pandanus trees. Ag
6 BOWDITCH ISLAND.
As they approached the island, three double canoes were seen coming towards the ship, but with great caution; the mizzen-topsail was backed to allow them to come up, which they did, singing and shouting, making many gestures, and waving pieces of matting. A white flag was waved in return, and various articles exhibited to induce them to come alongside, which they at last did; but no inducement could prevail on them to come on board.
The canoes were all double, made of pieces of wood sewed together like those of Samoa, and were ornamented in like manner with white ovula-shells. The blades of their paddles also resembled those of the Samoans, being oblong and slender. The colour and features of these people showed that they belonged to the Polynesian race, and it was observed there was little or no difference between their appearance and that of the Samoans, to which dialect their language was allied. A Samoan who was on board the Peacock could partially understand them, but not unfrequently was entirely at a loss; Mr. Hale, however, was enabled to comprehend many of the words. It appeared that their refusal to come on board proceeded from the singular apprehension that the ship would be lifted out of the water, and taken up to the sky, from which they believed she had descended. Some few of them got as far up as the gangway, one of whom had an ulcerated arm, which he desired might be cured.
In each canoe there were ten men, who wore the maro, which was braided like matting. On their head was a piece, made in some cases of matting, in others of tortoise-shell, and occasionally this ornament resembled an eye-shade, or the front of a cap, to protect the face from the sun; their hair was cut short, and was the same in character as that of the Polynesians; they wore necklaces of shells, and small pieces of sponge, and wreaths of pandanus-leaves around the neck. Only one of those in the canoes seemed to be a person of note: in his shade were stuck several of the tail-feathers of the tropic-bird. A plane-iron and some blue beads were seen in their possession: this, with their know- ledge of trade and desire of carrying it on, proved that they had before had intercourse with ships. They exhibited great expertness in show- ing off their various articles to view, and were very eager to sell in order to obtain our articles.
They had matting, nets, fish-hooks of bone, wooden boxes, paddles, and miniature canoes. Whilst the bartering was going on, the ship fired a great gun, for the base by sound, with the tender. This created much consternation, and they all scrambled into their canoes under strong excitement, making a prodigious clamour, seized their paddles, and pulled for the island, in great trepidation.
BOWDITCH ISLAND. q
After the natives had thus made a precipitate retreat, the boats were lowered, and a large party proceeded to land at the nearest point. The landing was effected on the coral shelf with some diffi- culty, and they found the natives, who had come alongside, ready to receive them, with every sign of friendship. They had apparently recovered from their alarm, and met the officers before they reached the beach, greeting them by rubbing noses and throwing their arms around their necks. Their excitement seemed to be so great that it was difficult for them to continue still for a moment, distracted by the numerous novel things around them. Some of them, however, were exceedingly shy, and would not suffer themselves to be ap- proached; others had greater confidence, but at the same time showed a respectful fear; while a few put their arms round the officers’ necks, and exhibited a boldness devoid of dread of any kind. The latter urged the party to accompany them to their village. These different states of feeling were associated with a peculiar mode of singing, which they would continue for some time, during which nothing could induce them to stop; this ended, their astonishment and excitement would again appear to find relief in vociferating with great volubility for several minutes, at the end of which they would break out in a hearty laugh, without the least apparent cause. These islanders are tattooed on the cheeks, breast, legs, and above the hips.
A part of these marks consisted of two rows of lines running from the tip of the ear across the cheek and nose, with small crosses between. There were others passed around the body below the chest; many marks resembling fish were on the arms, and a sort of triangle, together with figures of turtles, on the breast. On the legs were many concentric rings. The markings were distinct and peculiar.
Their village, to which our party went, was on the inner or lagoon side of the island, and contained about thirty houses, which were raised about a foot above the surrounding earth: they were of oblong shape, about fifteen feet high to the ridge-pole, sloping gradually, and of a convex form to within two or three feet of the ground; the roof was supported on high posts, whilst the lower part rested on short ones, three feet within the eaves, having a strong piece extending around, on which the rafters are tied; the gable-ends were over- topped by the roof, and seemed necessary to protect them from the weather. Below the eaves, the whole was open from the ground to the roof. The thatching, made of pandanus-leaves, was of great thickness, and put on loosely. The interior of the houses was very clean, but there was no furniture except a few gourds, and a reclining
8 BOWDITCH ISLAND.
stool, cut from a solid block of wood, having two legs at one end, which inclined it at an angle of nearly forty-five degrees: to show the manner of lying in it, they imitated a careless and comfortable lounge, which they evidently considered a luxury. It was conjec- tured that they had removed their various household utensils to a secret place. t
The most remarkable constructions of the islanders near the village, were three small quays, five or six feet wide, and two feet above the water, forming slips about ten feet wide: at the end of each of these was a small house, built of pandanus-leaves, partly on poles in the water. These appeared to be places for securing their canoes, and for the purpose of keeping their fishing implements. Three canoes were seen lying a short distance off in the lagoon, filled with the women and children. This was a precaution adopted to enable them to escape if it became necessary; yet they did not seem to apprehend any hostility. No kind of war implements was observed among them, and their bodies exhibited no marks of strife with each other.
There was an open space in the town, covered with coral-sand and pebbles, which they called male. When they were asked by Mr. Hale for their “fale atua,” (house of God,) they pointed to a place at a distance, and evidently understood the meaning of the question.
There was no cultivation whatever, and their only food appeared to be the cocoa-nut and fish. There were no animals seen, no fowls, dogs, or hogs. Captain Hudson left there a few young pigs, of which the natives took charge, but they did not evince that surprise which was expected at the sight of an unknown animal.
They have no water on the island, and the supply is wholly obtained from excavations made in the body of the cocoa-nut trees, two feet from the ground. These trees are all dug out on the lee side, towards which all are more or less inclined. These excavations are capable of containing five or six gallons of water.
Our gentlemen were under the impression that they saw the whole population, and counted forty male adults, which, on the supposition that they were one-third, would make the population one hundred and twenty.
This island was discovered by Byron, in 1765, who reported it as destitute of inhabitants. The natives gave the name of their island as Oatafu, and acknowledged themselves the subjects of a chief who lived on a neighbouring island, called Fakaafo, pointing to a southerly direction. With this exception, they did not appear to possess the knowledge of any other islands but their own.
BOWDITCH ISLAND. 9
Their idea was that the ship had come from the sky, and that the officers were divinities; the question whether they were so was con- stantly repeated, and although every endeavour was made to convince them to the contrary, yet the disclaimer produced no effect. Their continual singing and chaunting was supposed to arise from the desire to propitiate us.
When a number of the officers had collected in the male, the two oldest of the men, seating themselves on the ground, with two short sticks, commenced chaunting and drumming on a large stick, whilst another wrapped a net about his middle, and began to dance: the more they were interrupted, the more vigorous became their efforts, both in the song and dance.
These islanders were thought by all to be a docile, harmless people, although they possessed, in common with all other savages, a strong propensity to theft. Many of the officers lost small articles out of their pockets, which were no doubt taken at the time of their affec- tionate embraces. Just as they were leaving the island, a hatchet was missed, which was supposed to be stolen; on the loss being made known to them, a prodigious excitement ensued. ‘The old chief, or he who had been pointed out as the “ alike,” jumped up with much energy, and made a speech with a stentorian voice and excessive volubility, while his whole frame was agitated. ‘The natives immediately sepa- rated in all directions, and in a short time the missing hatchet was produced.
They had no knowledge of the use of tobacco, so general among the other islanders of Polynesia, and when shown some, they made signs to know if it was edible. On being given a cigar, they examined it very closely, and being induced to light it, attempted to imitate the motions of smoking; but instead of drawing in the breath to ignite it, pursued a directly opposite course, and very soon returned it with some agitation, apparently rejoiced to get ridof it. The natives ac- companied them in a body to the beach, and saw them safely into the boats.
Dip and intensity observations were made here; they likewise had a perpendicular cast of the lead, half a mile from the shore, with three hundred fathoms; but they found no bottom.
Nineteen varieties of trees were found, some of which were of a large growth; among which were seen large Tournefortia, covered with Asplenium and Polypodium, species of ferns, which gave it quite a venerable appearance; a pandanus more than thirty feet high. A tree, believed to be a Pisonia, was more than twenty feet in circum- ference at its base, and about forty feet high. A beautiful species of
VOL. V. 2
10 BOWDITCH ISLAND.
ficus, the Cape jessamine of Tahiti, and the “nono,” used as a dye, were both growing wild.
Some tame oceanic pigeons, plovers, and a noddy, were seen about their town, with numerous water-fowl, but no land-birds. Rats were numerous, as was also a large black lizard.
On the 26th, the vessels sailed for the Duke of Clarence Island, but, owing to the unfavourable state of the weather, they did not reach it until the 28th, though only a few miles distant, when it was surveyed, and found to be seven and two-tenths miles long, in a north and south direction, and five miles wide from east to west. It is of a triangular shape, with the apex to the north. It has a lagoon similar to that of the Duke of York’s, with islets in it; the northwest side is a bare reef, or wash, on which the sea breaks heavily. After the survey was effected, Captain Hudson found it impossible to land to hold communi- cation with the natives, but has no doubt of its being inhabited, as it was spoken of by the inhabitants of the Duke of York’s Island as belonging to the same people, and was called by them Nukunono. No opening was perceived into the lagoon, and there were many cocoa-nut and other trees on the island.
On the 28th, in the afternoon, they bore away for the purpose of looking for the islands of Gente Hermosas of Quiros. During the night the weather was squally, with heavy rain, accompanied with thunder and lightning; aud it is a source of regret, that at this time the rain-gauge was out of repair, and no observations were made as to the quantity which fell, or its temperature.
At 2" 30" a. m., whilst Lieutenant Emmons had the eee the night being very dark, and the weather clear, he heard the distant sonedl of surf; soon afterwards the wind changed, when land was discovered close to the vessel, bearing northeast. They made signal to the tender, and hove-to till daylight, when the largest island they had yet seen was within two miles of the ship.
This proved to be a new discovery, as it was not to be found on any chart. The island, which I have named Bowditch, agreeably to the wish of Captain Hudson, was of coral formation, and its shape is that of a triangle, with the apex to the south. From north to south it is eight miles long, and in width, from its west point, four miles. On its southwest and north points the land is of considerable elevation, and the more elevated parts are connected by an extensive coral reef, that is awash. On the east side the land is more continuous, and on three parts there are extensive groves of cocoa-nut trees and shrubbery. There is no entrance for a vessel to the lagoon, which, from the appear- ance of the water, has but little depth.
BOWDITCH ISLAND. 11
At daylight, eighteen canoes, with four or five persons in each, were seen off the end of the island, apparently on a fishing excursion: they disregarded the vessels altogether, and continued their occupation, with- out taking any notice of them, and as if unwilling to lose the opportunity of taking the fish. The fish seemed to be extremely numerous, if the actions of the birds were to be taken as an indication, for immense numbers of them were seen darting into and rising from the sea every moment.
As the natives refused to come near the ship, Captain Hudson ordered two boats to be sent to open a communication with them. They were taking fish after the manner of the Samoans, by trolling a line, it being fastened by a pole eight or ten feet long to the stern of the canoes, and elevated above the surface to a sufficient height to allow the fish-hook, which was made of shell or bone, to drag along the surface of the water ; as their canoes were propelled, the fish, attracted by the glisten- ing of the hook, eagerly caught at it, and were taken.
The canoes were single, with out-riggers, and resembled those of Samoa, being partly decked over the fore part, and with the same small protuberances or pegs, to which were fastened the ovula-shell. No sails were observed, but a small model of a canoe, purchased among the curiosities, had the usual triangular sail.
UNION GROUP CANOE,
The natives were at first very shy of the boats; but the Hawaiians who were in them, soon induced them to approach, and enter into trade, and finally enticed them alongside the ships. On coming near, they began a song or chaunt, holding up their paddles and mats, and shouting “kafilou tamatau.” They resembled the natives of Oatafu, or Duke of York’s Island, wore the same kind of mats, eye-shades, and ornaments, and some were tattooed after the same manner. Some, however, were tattooed in a different style, being ornamented with a variety of arrows on the forehead and cheeks. They were all finely formed, and manly in appearance, with pleasing countenances that expressed good-nature.
They seemed eager enough for trade, and soon disposed of all they had to exchange ; a few presents were also made them, but all induce- ments failed to entice them on board. They appeared very cheerful, laughing heartily at any thing that struck them as ridiculous.
12 BOWDITCH ISLAND.
The annexed wood-cut is from an accurate sketch by Mr. Agate, and exhibits the tattooing above spoken of.
WF
Meo 3 mm " I ll ry] cone J
WO coal
“ gat yt oul |
[Ifill eh a Hii
BOWDITCH ISLANDER.
There was a necessity now for beginning the duties of the survey, and guns were to be fired for bases by sound. Attempts were made before the firing, to explain to them what was to be done, in hopes their fears might not be excited, and thus cause their desertion, as at the Duke of York’s Island; but the moment the first gun was fired, they hurried off for a short distance to hold a parley. The second gun caused them to start at full speed for the land, and they did not slacken their efforts until they reached it.
Three boats, with several of the officers, landed on the southwest point of the island, whither four or five canoes accompanied them, the confidence of the natives being restored. When they came near the reef, the surf was found to be breaking heavily on it, which caused them to hesitate in attempting to land at that place; but, after looking for some distance, and finding no better place, they deter- mined to try it. The natives, in the mean time, had been passing through the surf, by placing their canoes on the heaviest roller, and, paddling with great energy, reached the beach upon it, without diffi- culty.
Following their example, our boats landed with the same ease and safety.
The islet on which they now were was covered with cocoa-nut trees, but there were no houses upon it. They called it Fakaafo. which was the same as the natives of Oatafu had designated as the
BOWDITCH ISLAND. 13
island where their great chief lived. Oatafu was well known here, as well as the Duke of Clarence’s Island, which they called Nukunono. It was observed that they spoke of their own island as the Fanua Loa, or the Great Land; and it, with the two islands just referred to, were all the lands of which they had any knowledge.
The only person our officers saw who appeared to have any authority, was an old man, whom they called Taufaiga, and desig- nated as a priest, and who was considered fakatapa (sacred). The name they gave to the god of the island was Tui-Tokelau, whose residence was pointed out as being in the skies. Mr. Hale, by his questions, elicited that they called their great deity by the same name, with the customary addition of Tagaloa ilaya-i-te-layi—Tagaloa above in the heavens. They ascribed our origin to the same place, and could not be convinced that we were not deities, but only men (tagata lava).
Near the south end of the island was a small lagoon of salt water.
Towards sunset, the natives gave them notice that it was time for them to return to their town, upon which our party embarked and joined the ship.
During the night, they had heavy rains, and stood on and off the island. In the morning, Captain Hudson landed, opposite the islet on which the town was situated, with four boats. The surf was breaking heavily, and they were well drenched, being obliged to wade over the reef, which was from knee to waist deep.
The king and about two hundred natives awaited their approach. The former was seated in advance, with about twenty old men; the rest stood behind, and all began to gesticulate and chaunt, as if under great excitement. They pointed to the sun and howled, spreading mats, and making motions for our party to be seated. Our gentlemen complied with their request, and the king, after embracing Captain Hudson, rubbed noses, pointed to the sun, howled, moaned, rubbed his nose over the captain’s chin, hugged him again and again, put a mat around his waist, securing it with a cord of human hair, repeating the rubbing of noses, and howled for twenty minutes. The same ceremony was gone through with by minor chiefs, with the other officers.
The king, whose name was Taupe, was somewhat advanced in years, with a grave countenance. He had a sickly look, and his legs were much affected with the elephantiasis. Notwithstanding this, however, he would have been deemed a fine-looking man. He was thought to be under much greater agitation from fear than any of his subjects. The moment Captain Hudson attempted to leave his side, he
would set up a most piteous howl and point to the men. He continued B
14 BOWDITCH ISLAND.
to repeat, in a tremulous and agitated tone, “ Nopo kilalo, mataku au” (sit down, I am afraid). A continued desire was manifested that our people should depart, and take the presents they had offered.
Every endeavour was made to quiet their fears, and to convince them that our people did not come from the sun; but nearly an hour elapsed before they were tranquillized. After this, they became more familiar; but their manners continued to evince the same mixture of timidity and friendliness that had been observed at Oatafu. They were induced to trade after they were quieted, when fish-hooks and knives were in great request, for which mats, fishing implements, model canoes two or three feet long, wooden boxes with covers, cut out of the solid wood, and cocoa-nuts, were given.
When the king had been presented with a variety of articles, he gave in return a mat and maro, after which he made a move towards his town, a few hundred yards distant, whither the whole party followed him. It was with difficulty that he could walk, in doing which he required the aid of an assistant. He at first objected to their accom- panying him, saying it was “e sa” (sacred). The whole islet was covered with a grove of cocoa-nut trees, under whose shade about sixty houses were scattered, only a few yards from each other, and resembling those described at Oatafu, though better built and larger.
The most remarkable building was that which they said was their “tui-tokelau” (house of their god). This stood in the centre, and was of an oblong shape, fifty by thirty-five feet, and about twenty feet in height. The roof was supported in the centre by three posts, two feet in diameter, while under the place on which the rafters rested, were many short and small posts: all were very roughly hewn, and placed only a few feet asunder. The roof was concave, and extended beyond the posts at the eaves; the thatching was tied together, which, hanging down, resembled at a distance the curtain of a tent or marquee. All the sides were open, excepting a small railing, about fifteen inches high, around the foundation, which allowed the free passage of the air through. It was one of the most beautiful and pleasant spots, and is well represented in the opposite plate, from a drawing by Mr. Agate. They were at first unwilling that the officers should enter ; but upon the explanation, that what was taboo for them, would not be so for the Papalangis, they were admitted by an old priest, but not without reluc- tance.
The edifice contained but little furniture. Around the eaves a row of mother-of-pearl shells was suspended, giving the appearance of a scolloped curtain. The whole was covered with mats. In the centre, around the largest pillar, a great number of enormous benches, or
Ais
YM
BOWDITCH ISLAND. 15
tables, were piled, which were carved out of the solid wood, and being of rude workmanship, were clumsy and ill-shaped. In all probability these were the reclining stools before spoken of. The natives termed them “the seats of their god.” Their gods, or idols,—tui-tokelau,— were placed on the outside, near by. The largest of these was fourteen - feet high and eighteen inches in diameter. This was covered or enveloped in mats, and over all a narrow one was passed, shawl- fashion, and tied in a knot in front, with the ends hanging down. The smaller idol was of stone, and four feet high, but only partially covered with mats. About ten feet in front of the idols was one of the hewn tables, which was hollowed out: it was four feet long by three broad, and the same in height. Near these was seen the barrel of a small windlass, which the natives said had belonged to a small vessel formerly wrecked on the island, and that only two of the men had been saved, who had since died. This was not the only relic of the disaster, for some of the beams were also seen. Mr. Hale made many inquiries relative to this matter, and they gave him the names of the men who were saved. He surmises, from their having Polynesian terminations, that it might have been a vessel with Sandwich Islanders on board, and he is somewhat strengthened in this opinion by finding the word “debolo” in use among them. The word had puzzled him at first, for the Sandwich Islanders had adopted it to express “ the devil.” There it was used as “ o debolo,” and signified an ancient god, Atua tafito.
In the male, around the largest pillar, were many spears and clubs, all much battered and worn, which had likewise been picked up from the sea, and resembled those of Feejee and Samoa. These were called “Ja-kau-tau” (wood of war); but they had no specific name for the different kinds. These were the only warlike weapons seen among them. A number of war-conchs were on the tables.
The well which supplied water was a short distance from the male. It was walled up, was about fifteen feet deep, and surrounded on the top by a high fence. The water was about two feet deep, and great care was taken to preserve it clean and pure.
The part of the town facing the sea was built up with a very good stone wall; along this were several small houses, while on the shore of the lagoon was a row of canoe-houses, some fifty in number. The canoes were some distance off in the lagoon, filled with the women and children.
Although they showed a decided disapprobation of the presence of our officers, yet they made no opposition to their examining the village. In some of the houses were found children and a few women; the old queen was discovered, hid under a mat, who, when found, was in great
16 BOWDITCH ISLAND.
terror. In contrast with the old queen, the younger females appeared very good-looking and well shaped.
The natives all showed a constant anxiety for the departure of our people, frequently repeating expressions which were interpreted that they were tired of their company ; but all this time they carried on an active trade, and exhibited their thieving disposition very strongly. The officers lost many small articles, which were pilfered very dexter- ously ; and if any things were dropped or suffered to be out of sight a moment, they were instantly concealed or made away with. Mr. Rich, when near the boat, gave his botanical collecting-case to a native to hold, who, the moment his back was turned, ran off with it; and it required a hard chase to overtake him.
In one part of the village, two drums were seen: one of these was a trough resembling those at the Feejee and Tonga Islands; the other was a cylindrical frame, set upright in the ground, with a piece of shark’s skin drawn tightly over it, like those of Hawaii: the latter was beaten like our drums, with two sticks, and was intended as an accom- paniment to dancing; for when it was beaten, the natives began that exercise. ‘The motions of the dance were similar to those observed in other parts of Polynesia, only more varied.
The younger portion of the community, of both sexes, were naked ; while those more advanced in life wore the maro, which in the men was from six to eighteen inches wide. Some of these were very fine in texture, and bordered with fringe. The maro worn by the elder and it was presumed married women, consisted of a great number of leaves tied to a cord, and then slit into fine threads. These were kept well oiled and perfectly pliable, and formed a huge apron, resembling a bundle of straw tied around the loins: it was almost impossible to conceive a more unwieldy or ridiculous dress; its weight was about fifty pounds, which may give some idea of its size; if it were rolled up, it would never have been recognised as a part of female attire.
Their ornaments consisted of necklaces of shells and bone, ear-rings of the same, and false curls in front. It was observed, that their hair appeared to be thinner than that of the other islanders, though their heads did not approach to baldness.
In manufactures they seemed quite apt. They had two kinds of mats, the one about four feet square for sleeping, the other for clothing: they evinced some ingenuity in these, as well as in their fish-hooks, which were made of bone, shark’s teeth, and shell; many of these were small and remarkably neat. They also had saws and files, formed of shark’s skin stretched on sticks, which in their hands were quite
BOWDITCH ISLAND. 17
effective in wearing away the soft wood, &c. The construction of their drill was ingenious: it was pointed with a hard stone, and the mode of using it and producing the circular motion can be more readily comprehended by reference to the wood-cut.
The motion is communicated by a vertical movement of the hand, and when practised by a native, is exceedingly rapid. Their boxes or buckets are of various sizes, from the capacity of a gill to that of a gallon; they are cut out of the solid wood, and the top or lid is fitted in a neat manner. These are used to keep their fish-hooks and other small articles in, to preserve them from the wet. Like the natives of Oatafu, they do not appear to culti- vate any thing, but derive their food from the cocoa-nut and _ pandanus, which are the only edible vegetable articles that grow on the island; but the far greater portion of their food is drawn from the sea. That they have sufficient nutriment, is amply proved by their robust and healthy looks.
The population of this island is supposed to be about six hundred souls, most of whom dwell in the town. Those that were seen on Oatafu are supposed to belong to this island also; and it will be remembered that their canoes were there double ones, while all those seen at Bowditch Island were single. Throughout all Polynesia the double canoe is used in navigating from island to island. This will reconcile the fact that Oatafu, or Duke of York Island, when first visited, was found uninhabited, as is particularly mentioned by its discoverer.
After a stay of three hours at their town, Captain Hudson yielded to the pressing desire of the natives to get rid of him, and ordered all the officers and men to the boats. The natives showed their delight at this move, and were very assiduous in assisting their visiters to embark. The confusion of embarkation was taken advantage of by them, and numerous small articles were stolen, which were not missed till afterwards. Many of these thefts were committed in the most barefaced manner, and it is believed that they would have gone to much greater lengths, if they had not been restrained by their fears.
Along the coral reef were walls of coral, in the form of piers, eight or ten feet high, and from twenty-five to thirty feet long.
VOL. V. 3
18 BOWDITCH ISLAND.
There was no sign of places for cooking, nor any appearance of fire, and it is believed that all their provisions are eaten raw. What strengthened this opinion, was the alarm the natives felt when they saw the sparks emanating from the flint and steel, and the emission of smoke from the mouths of those who were smoking cigars.
Dip and intensity observations were made here.
Upon reaching the ship, Captain Hudson determined to bear away for the situation of the island of the Gente Hermosas of Quiros.
They had reached the vicinity on the 31st of January, where they searched until the following day, when they made land, but were unable to finish the survey of the island for four days. Boats were sent to effect a landing, but the surf was found to be too heavy, and one that approached too near was caught in the rollers and thrown on the coral reef, fortunately without harm to any of the crew; the boat, however, was somewhat injured.
The position of this island is in longitude 170° 55’ 15” W., and latitude 11° 05’ S.; it is of coral formation, but has no lagoon; it is nearly round, and four miles and three-tenths in circumference ; it may be classed with the high coral islands, and is elevated from fifteen to twenty-five feet above the level of the sea; it is well wooded with cocoa-nuts, pandanus, and other trees and shrubs. The sea breaks constantly on all parts, and no safe landing exists. Its situa- tion differs from the position laid down for that of Quiros. Captain Hudson therefore called it Swain’s Island, after the master of a whaler, who had informed him of its existence. When within a mile of the island, no bottom could be had with two hundred fathoms of line. This isolated spot gave no other evidence of its ever having been inhabited, except the groves of cocoa-nut trees. Pigeons, similar to those seen at the Samoan Group, were observed.
After securing observations for its position, the vessels bore away for Upolu, with the westerly breeze, which had continued for the last eight days, and been almost constant. ‘This will serve to show that there is no real difficulty in the population of Polynesia migrating from west to east during this season of the year, when the trade-winds are almost entirely interrupted.
Until the 4th of February they had bad weather, and heavy squalls accompanied with thunder and lightning.
On the 5th of February, the mountains of Savaii were dimly visible, although they were between fifty and sixty miles off. On the 6th, they were off the island of Upolu, when Captain Hudson, to lose no time, despatched the tender, with two boats, to survey the south side of the island, while the launch, with the first cutter, was
BOWDITCH ISLAND. 19
to be sent round its east end, in order to complete the work in the least possible time. In the afternoon, the Peacock anchored in Apia Harbour.
Many minor things at Apia had changed, after an absence of fifteen months. Much of this was to be imputed to the different season of ihe year, it being now the rainy season; and from this cause, the luxu- riance of growth had enveloped every thing in a sprightly green, that embosomed the village and white walls of the new church, of which the foundation was just laid at cur former visit.
The day of their arrival was the Samoan Sabbath, and all was quiet and peaceful. Some of the officers landed in the afternoon, and were greeted by many of their old friends.
The improvements, beside the church, were a store and dwelling- house, built by Mr. Cunningham, Her Britannic Majesty’s Vice-Con- sul, who is likewise about erecting a saw-mill. The church is a very creditable building, and quite neat in its appearance, with walls of stone, and roofed after the native fashion. Near by are deposited the bones of the lamented missionary, Mr. Williams, and of Mr. Harris, which were brought here from Erromango by H. B. M. sloop Fa- vourite, Captain Croker, who himself has since fallen in his endea- vours to forward the missionary cause.
The missionary brig Camden, which had just returned from a cruise to Raratonga Island, was at anchor in the harbour.
As this was the season of bad weather, Captain Hudson made every arrangement to meet it; for the harbour of Apia is somewhat exposed to both the sea and the north wind, from which quarter it is said to blow most violently.
On the 12th of December preceding, they had experienced there a violent hurricane, which had blown down many trees, and done a great deal of damage to the fruit.
We are indebted to Mr. Cunningham for some observations on this storm, which are as follows.
On the 12th of December, 1840, they had light winds from the southeast, the upper strata of clouds flying from southwest. The wind continued to increase until the 16th, when heavy squalls were experienced from the northeast. At 2 a. m. the wind was very heavy from the southeast, accompanied with rain, and some houses were blown down; at half-past two, the gusts were very heavy from the south-southeast. The barometer, although an injured one, fell as low as 24 in., its ordinary standing being 28 in.; the temperature was 88°. At 6 a.m™., the wind again rose with rapidity, blowing down houses ‘and trees, stripping them of their leaves, which filled the air in all
20 BOWDITCH ISLAND.
directions; the blasts were very severe at intervals of ten minutes. At 8 a. m., a sudden shift of wind took place to the southwest; after which it moderated, and at noon the weather became clear, the wind still continuing from the southwest, while the upper stratum of clouds was now seen to pass over from the northeast. The following day the wind was in the same direction, with fine clear weather. Mr. Cunningham observes, that the houses were generally blown down after the change of wind occurred.
The natives relate the occurrence of a similar gale, which did great damage, about nine years before, destroying all the plantations; and, from their account, its changes took place in a similar manner, from -the northeast to the southwest.
From the great fall of the barometer, and the fury and sudden change of the gale of the 16th, its centre must have passed over Apia.
Although these severe hurricanes do not happen very frequently at the Samoan Islands, yet, from reports that I received, I am disposed to believe that they occur very frequently between them and _ the Friendly Islands, where scarcely a season passes without some one of the islands suffering from one of these awful calamities.
It would therefore be advisable for our whale-ships to avoid cruis- ing in the neighbourhood of these groups, during the season of the year that these storms are liable to occur, viz., from the middle of December to the end of March. Some ships have been almost made complete wrecks of, that were so unfortunate as to be overtaken by them.
At the Samoan Islands, curious atmospheric phenomena are not uncommon. Iam indebted to the same source for several notices of halos, and of one in particular, which happened at Fasetootai, about twenty miles to the westward of Apia, on the Ist March, 1840. The day was very clear, and, till near noon, no clouds were seen; the sky was azure blue in the zenith, deepening into dark purple, or nearly black, on the horizon. At thirty minutes past noon, there was a white ring around the sun, cf dazzling brightness, of five degrees width: beyond it, a ring of white hazy appearance, of the radius of fifteen degrees, a deep-blue colour still continuing between the sun and halo. At 1 py. m, prismatic colours spread over the whole, and were very bright. At two o’clock, they had heavy squalls at Fase- tootai, with the wind at east-northeast. This phenomenon appears to have been local, for it was not observed at Apia, only twenty miles distant. The wind, however, during its continuance, was found to have changed to northwest-by-north, attended with heavy rain, and bad weather continued for a fortnight. Both Mr. Cunningham and
BOWDITCH ISLAND. 91
Mr. Williams assured me that the halos and parhelia were usually followed by bad weather.
At Apia, among their old acquaintances, they encountered Pea, the ruling chief of the place, whose begging propensities still existed in all their force. His form was equally rotund, and his desire of being of service quite as great. Report spoke of him as having become very religious of late, but his covetousness had not diminished in con- sequence, at least in the opinion of our officers. He was generally full of business, among his friends and relatives, all of whom he con- siders more or less as his dependants. He was very anxious to be in- formed what had become of his relative, Tuvai, the murderer, whom we had carried away from these islands on our former visit.
The missionaries were as attentive as formerly to the officers, and gave them every facility that lay in their power of spending their time usefully. They have been making progress in their efforts to civilize these natives, by establishing schools, and stimulating them to improve their condition. Almost every village now has its substantial white- washed church, which also serves for a school-house; and, from the reports, both continue to be well attended. Some improvements were seen to have taken place in the dwellings, the arrangement of the interior having a more civilized look, not only from the numerous articles of European manufacture, but in an improved state of ventila- tion. The cattle and horses were on the increase, and there are few natives but have supplies of pigs, poultry, and the vegetables of the island.
Purser Speiden, who was the officer charged with procuring sup- plies, and superintending the trade with the natives, having found much difficulty in obtaining them alongside the ship, received _per- mission to make arrangements for a suitable place on shore. For this purpose he procured a place to erect a pen for the pigs, &c. To show the exorbitant demands of the natives, and their desire to prac- tise imposition, I will state the difficulties he encountered. In the first place, he had to pay for the site on which to build a pen; secondly, for the logs and poles to build it with; thirdly, for going after the timbers; fourthly, for building the pen; fifthly, for trans- ferring the live-stock to it; sixthly, for services to a native to watch the pigs during the day and see that they did not escape; seventhly, to pay a man to collect cocoa-nuts for food; eighthly, to pay a woman to feed them; and ninthly, to pay a man to watch the pigs, taro, &c., during the night. Besides this, there was a charge made for trading under the large tree! This traffic seldom failed to afford much amusement to the lookers-on. In the centre, near the trunk of the
22 BOWDITCH ISLAND.
tree, was the trade-box, and near to it stood the trade-master, measur- ing the fathoms of cloth. On one side were natives, seated with their cocoa-nuts and pigs, and others looking on; some again sitting aloof, because they could not obtain their price, or the article they wanted ; and others watching their opportunity to obtain a small reward for some service. ‘The vignette is from a sketch by Mr. Agate, of one of these parties at Apia.
In the account of my visit to this island the year previous, I have mentioned the intention of Mr. Williams to extend the missionary field to the groups west of the Feejees, and had occasion to refer to his melancholy end in carrying out this intention, and the recovery of his bones by H. B. M. sloop of war Favourite.
That occurrence, instead of damping the ardour of the survivors, has been the means of giving it a fresh impetus. Mr. Heath, who has become the successor to Mr. Williams, has made a cruise with a number of native missionaries, and succeeded in placing them in the very island which was the scene of the massacre, with every prospect of success.
The Camden was fitting out for another cruise, under the Rev. Mr. Murray, of Tutuila. Captain Hudson pressed upon them the expe- diency of a visit to the island that he had just discovered, Fakaafo or Bowditch; and it is to be hoped that ere long their enterprise may
BOWDITCH ISLAND. 23
lead them among this as yet uncontaminated people, who will then receive, coeval with their discovery, and prior to any contaminating influence, the truths of the gospel.
The plan adopted, of using native pioneers, seems to be one well calculated to succeed; and I am satisfied, from the view I have had of missionary operations, that it is the only one likely to give a founda- tion on which to raise any permanent superstructure.
The white missionaries have a vast many difficulties to contend with, and are very likely to be deceived in some respects, in conse- quence of their general want of knowledge of the world. These diffi- culties are principally the hypocrisy and deceit of the natives, who are adepts in the art, giving a false impression relative to their feelings and designs, particularly when they think their personal interest may be promoted by their dissimulation. This trait of character is not con- fined to individuals, but frequently extends to whole districts.
Influential natives, brought up as teachers, are well calculated for the duties of missionaries, and take pride in the performance of them, and being fully aware of the native character, understand well where to place their confidence. I have had occasion to speak of the enthu- siastic manner in which they enter upon their duties.
I would not be understood as throwing any doubt over the expe- diency of the missionary operations in these islands, but my intention is to express my preference of the mode they are now adopting to spread the gospel into the other islands, a mode which I am well satisfied will be of infinite advantage in facilitating the desired effect, and at a much less cost, both of time and money.
No political change had taken place in the government. Malietoa and the Manono party still have the power in their hands, but reports were rife that the chief had been a backshder from his professions of Christianity, by attending some of the feasts of the devil’s party. The consequence, as at his time of life may be readily imagined, was a fit of sickness, which has been considered as a judgment upon him, and caused his return with much contrition to his religious duties and observances. It is said, that during his illness there was much excite- ment among the high chiefs, in relation to the succession to his title, that of “ Tupu,” or sovereign; and some fears were entertained that an outbreak might occur, that would place the power in the hands of some of the restless spirits that are known to be averse to the mis- sionaries. If, however, they have established themselves as firmly as appearances warrant one in believing, there cannot be much danger that their exertions will be retarded, much less put a stop to.
Among the visiters to the ships, was Mole, the second son of Malietoa,
24 BOWDITCH ISLAND.
of whom we had formed a good opinion during our former visit, and who, it was then generally supposed, would succeed his father in authority. He is warmly attached to the missionary cause, and affords important aid in carrying out their plans, having much influence with his father, and restraining his evil propensities. He has the reputation of being very popular with the common people in the town of Sagana, where he resides and is a teacher. From him our gentlemen obtained the news of our friends among the nobility. Emma, his sister, whom we had all admired so much, and whose portrait is given in the second volume of this Narrative, was married to Samuel, the tall and hand- some chief of Faleatii. The haughty Vavasa was in Manono, which was the case also with Malietoa. Tooa was absent, and many other chiefs who have attended the fono, were at their districts. Opotuno was still in Savaii, on the alert to prevent surprise, and it was reported that he had made some advances to join the missionaries with his peo- ple; but little credit was given to this story. They also learned that at the time Captain Hudson was in search of him he was concealed, with a few of his followers, at a short distance.
For the first eight days after the Peacock’s arrival, they had almost continual rain, with the wind varying from the north to west, and with a disagreeable swell setting into the harbour.
Tents were erected on shore to afford an opportunity for the neces- sary repairs to be made to the boats, and others for the use of the
magnetic instruments.
on the 10th, they experienced a strong gale ror the northwest- ward, with a heavy sea and torrents of rain. One of their anchors started, but they soon brought up with their sheet-anchor, although a ship would usually ride with very little strain upon her cables, owing to the strength of the tide, which causes her to lie nearly in the trough of the sea, and to roll very heavily. The stream of fresh water which empties into the harbour, has some tendency, when it is much swollen, to maintain a ship in this disagreeable position, by the force of its current. The harbour, through its discharges, is at times strewed with quantities of drift-wood.
The rain continued without intermission for nearly the whole time of their stay, so that no opportunity could be had of airing or drying the sails. So long a duration of wet, together with the heat, caused some fears relative to the health of the crew, and particularly those who were away in the boats, from their being more exposed to the weather. Every precaution was taken to prevent sickness.
A few days after they had been at anchor, Captain Hudson received a letter from Lieutenant Perry, who was of the surveying party, stating
BOWDITCH ISLAND. 25
that the chiefs of Sanapu had enticed away and secreted two of the men, intending them for pilots of that harbour after the Peacock should depart, and had promised to protect them. A messenger was at once despatched across the island by Pea, the chief of Apia, demanding the two deserters from the Sanapu chiefs; at the same time assuring them that if the men were not immediately delivered up, the Peacock would be removed to their harbour, and their town destroyed. This had the desired effect, and the deserters were brought back to the ship by the chiefs of Sanapu.
Captain Hudson, after rebuking the chiefs for the part they had taken in the transaction, and giving them some advice in regard to their future intercourse with the whites, paid them the reward Lieutenant Perry had offered for the apprehension of the deserters.
On the 21st, Captain Hudson hearing that the noted Sangapolutale, principal chief of the towns of Saluafata, Fusi, and Salelese, who had protected and refused to give up the murderer of Gideon Smith, Tagi, before mentioned, was at one of the towns near by on a visit, deter- mined, if possible, to surprise and take him prisoner, to be held until such time as the murderer were given up. For this purpose he visited the town before daylight of the 22d, with a few officers and men, but without success.
Previous to this time, Captain Hudson had had intercourse with this chief through our consul, Mr. Williams; and had demanded of him the punishment or delivery of the murderer, ‘lagi. In the course of the communications, Sangapolutale acknowledged that the murderer ought to be punished or given up; said he once wanted to kill him himself; but being a petty chief, he was backed and protected by the chiefs and the people of the three towns before named, who were promised, in case of necessity, assistance from some of the neighbouring chiefs, as well as others on the opposite side of the island. He further said, that he was desirous of giving him up, a few months before, to the com- mander of the Porpoise. It was distinctly stated to Sangapolutale, that the murderer must be either punished or given up, in conformity to the regulations adopted in their fono, composed of all the principal chiefs in the island, and that if neither of these stipulations were complied with, Captain Hudson would be compelled to employ the force under him in burning the towns that concealed and protected the murderer, and set their own laws and us at defiance.
Three days were given him from the time of the interview, to comply with the demand. He promised to do what he could, but he was fearful of the result, as his people wanted to fight, and had been promised aid from many quarters.
VOL. V. c 4
26 BOWDITCH ISLAND.
On the third day, his messengers arrived at Apia, and brought word that the chiefs and people were determined that the murderer should not be given up or punished ; that they defied the Papalangis and their power; and that, if Captain Hudson chose to come and take him, they would give him a fight. The messenger further stated, that they well knew he would be demanded according to their own regulations, but they would take care he should not be punished or given up, for they were prepared to resist any attempt that would be made. Many other insulting messages were received ; among them, one from the murderer and his friends, that when “he could kill a few more white men, he would be given up.”
Such were their threats and boasting: their conduct was conforma- ble to them, as represented by our consul, the missionaries, and Mr. Cunningham, H. B. M. vice-consul. Captain Hudson now saw the necessity of taking some steps that would check this criminal and audacious spirit, and prove to the natives that we had the power to punish these aggressions on our citizens.
The attempt to take the chief was designed to bring them to terms, without any further difficulty ; but not being successful, it was neces- sary to take some effectual measures for their punishment, particularly as the three towns had now united with their chiefs in setting our force at defiance. The missionaries also saw the necessity of doing some- thing to insure the safety of those who may hereafter have communi- cation with the natives, by renewing in their minds the fear of our power.
Notwithstanding the weather was so very unpropitious, the natural- ists made excursions to the different parts of the island. They all describe the luxuriance of the vegetation as exceeding any thing they had before witnessed: the rich soil, combined with the heat and copious rains, rendered every spot fertile, and seemed to give new life to the vast variety of parasitic plants with which all the trees were covered, and which, in the groves, were so thick as to form masses impene- trable to the rays of the sun. A remarkable ficus was passed on this trip, of which Mr. Agate made a characteristic drawing, and which will give a good idea of their size and manner of growth: the road or path passes through its trunk. A number of other trees were remark- able: among them the “ ife,” a gigantic chestnut, with its projecting buttresses around the trunk. ‘The woods were enlivened by many birds, and the air filled with their songs and chirpings.
At Siusinga, a devil’s town, Messrs. Rich, Peale, and Agate, saw Seeovedi, better known as Joe Gimblet, the great priest of his creed. He lay on a mat by himself, no one speaking or going near him, and
ie
BOWDITCH ISLAND. Q7
was pretending to read his sacred book, which our gentlemen disco- vered was a volume of the Rambler! This was obtained from him, by Mr. Agate, in exchange for a treatise on rail-roads, which had a flashy red cover, and therefore calculated to inspire his flock with additional reverence for their priest. He also made use of a kind of gibberish in talking to them, wishing, as was supposed, to give his followers the idea that he could speak the Papalangis’ language. How he had contrived to propitiate the anger of the old chief Lelomiava, was not ascertained ; but a story was told of him, that about a year before he had lost his two wives, and disappeared, informing his followers he was going to heaven to procure a third. He absented himself about a week, no one being informed where he had gone. On his return without a wife, he was asked where she was. His reply was, that the Great Spirit had told him that he was too old to marry a young wife, and must return to his people, who would take care of him, provide him with food, and do for him all that a wife could do. He accordingly returned, in obedience to the Spirit’s directions, and appears to live contented, all his wants being supplied without any care or trouble to himself. One of the most ridiculous parts of this fellow’s proceedings, was a native bringing to him an old tea-kettle, which was tabooed and held sacred, on which he began beating with an iron knife, making much noise, his face assuming a contemplative expression, until he had done with his mummeries. Strange as it may seem, he has many proselytes, and nearly all the inhabitants of the district of Sagana are followers of his doctrine. Their appearance contrasts very strongly with that of the Christian villages, while the heathens are, to appearance, almost a different race of people ; the one with long hair, gathered in a knot on the top of the head, and only clothed in the maro; the other with short hair, and dressed in a clean shirt and pareu. To strangers, both are generally kind and hospitable, and continue the Samoan custom of offering food to travellers as they pass through the village. i Since our visit in 1839, Mr. Day had taken up his residence within two miles of Malietoa’s town, where Mr. Hale and Dr. Whittle spent an hour or two with him, and proceeded thence to visit Malietoa. Near the new church, the house of Mole was pointed out, in which he had adopted many of the conveniences introduced by foreigners: the floor of his house was of boards, raised above the ground, and his doors were made to turn on hinges. The interior was divided by partitions into four rooms. A table and some rude seats composed the furniture. How far this example will be followed by the natives, time alone can determine. I believe that all those who have examined and reflected upon the condition of the natives of the South Sea islands, will be satis-
28 BOWDITCH ISLAND.
fied that it will be a very desirable improvement, both for their comfort and health, if they can be induced to abandon their modes of sleeping on the damp ground ; and some endeavours have already been made to effect a change in this respect, as one of the best means to prevent the diseases of the climate, which are thought to arise principally from this cause.
These gentlemen also visited Malietoa, who was still occupying the same small house, directly opposite to the fale-tele, in which I saw him during my visit. On entering, they were greeted by his two wives, the matronly Lauilupa, and Siona, the younger, both of whom still main- tained their fleshy appearance. They recognised Mr. Hale, and gave him a warm greeting. The old king, who had been sleeping on his divan or raised floor, now came forward. He appeared greatly changed, and was scarcely to be recognised as the same person. Instead of his dignified and upright carriage, which struck us all so much at our former visit, his form had become meagre and shrunken, and he was apparently bowed down with years, and trembling with infirmities.
He saluted our gentlemen with his usual courtesy, and, after seating himself, listened to the account of their visit, and of the news at Apia. He still retained much of his former air of command and sternness, which caused him to be likened by Dr. Whittle to a sick lion. He was unable to sit up long, and was soon again asleep. Old Lauilupa now entertained them by complaining of her sufferings from rheumatism, which Dr. Whittle gave her directions how to treat.
The two wives began, in a short time, to beg for presents—the elder one for needles and thread, the younger for jews-harps, rings, and look- ing-glasses. ‘These were promised, on their sending to the ship for them. They supplied their guests with food, which was served on an eating-mat, and consisted of pork, fish, taro, and yams. The queens sat by, pointing out the choicest bits, and, had not our gentlemen declined the honour, seemed disposed to use their royal fingers for its conveyance to their mouths.
In the evening, they took a stroll around the village, where every house was found lighted up with a cocoanut-oil lamp, or a torch of the candle-nut, strung upon a stick, and some with the fire of dry cocoa- nut leaves. In each house a family circle was usually seen, variously employed, some eating, some talking, others braiding sennit, but no amusements; for it was Saturday evening, and they were preparing for the Sabbath. Wherever they went, they were received with civility, and invited to eat.
Returning to Malietoa, another meal was found provided for them,
BOWDITCH ISLAND. 29
after which they were taken to a neighbouring house, which had been prepared as their sleeping apartment.
In the morning, they were awakened early by a little boy, who brought them water for washing, which showed an attention to their comforts scarcely to have been expected among those who are con- sidered as only half civilized.
When they rose in the morning, although but a little after sunrise, they found the natives already collected, at morning prayers, in the church, under the ministration of Mole; and, after the service was finished, they were invited to breakfast with him.
The return for Malietoa’s hospitality was now to be made, prior to their departure ; and all they had, consisted of but a few small articles; but these were joyfully received, with many thanks ; and our gentlemen took their leave, and returned to the ship.
Subsequently to this, Mr. Hale made a visit to the village of Mata- fayatele, where he was fortunate in being a witness to a little festival, ealled “ faausi.” A procession of about twenty men issued from a grove, bearing on their shoulders large wooden trays, shaped like shallow troughs. They were all dressed in gala-dresses, having wreaths of leaves and flowers about the neck and breast, with plumes of sugar- cane blossoms in their hair. They marched forward in quick time, to a lively song, which they sang in unison, until they reached the fale- tele, where a crowd appeared to be expecting them. In the house there were thirty or forty elderly men, seated around the sides, while in the centre a number of youths were busy in serving to each a mess of food from the trays. The chief who was the head of the feast, was recog- nised by Mr. Hale as having been named Tongipavo on our former visit, which name, he was informed, had been exchanged for that of Benjamin, since his conversion to Christianity. He gave Mr. Hale a seat near him, and ordered a mess of food to be served. It proved to be mashed taro, mixed with grated cocoa-nut and soaked in cocoa- nut-oil. The whole had been wrapped in banana-leaves and cooked. Mr. Hale found it quite palatable, and somewhat like cold mush fried in butter. After those present had satisfied their hunger, each wrapped up a portion of it in banana-leaves, to carry to his family. The whole was a pleasing sight, exhibiting one of the social customs of their primitive mode of life.
The surveying boats having returned, and the ship having reple- nished her stores of wood and water, and finished the repairs, Captain Hudson prepared for his departure, having determined to proceed to Saluafata Harbour.
As their time of departure had become known, and it drew near,
C2
30 BOWDITCH ISLAND.
their friends and acquaintances of rank did not omit to pay them fre- quent visits. Among these was old Pea of Apia, Mole, and others. These calls ought to have been termed begging visits, as they seldom saw a thing that pleased them that they did not ask for. Mole brought a complaint to Captain Hudson, of an outrage by a white vagabond on shore; but it was shrewdly suspected that, notwithstanding his being a missionary teacher, his design was to get more presents from his parting friends.
On the 23d, Captain Hudson was visited by Matetau, the cele- brated war-chief of Manono. In coming to the ship, he and his numerous retinue were overtaken by a violent shower of rain, which completely wet them. As the old chief was somewhat chilled and cold, Captain Hudson supplied him with a clean and dry shirt. He professed himself delighted; all was “very good,” captain, officers, and ship. His visit, like that of all the other chiefs, was evidently to receive his quantum of presents, and hence his desire to make himself as agreeable as possible. His features were more strongly marked than those of the islanders usually are; he is above the middle size, has an aquiline nose, and a high and retreating fore- head, with the frontal portion narrow, but widening behind the ears, having, as some thought, a strong resemblance to the chiefs of New Zealand. Mr. Agate succeeded in getting a good sketch of him.
MATETAU,
He adopted the usual Samoan custom of pleasing by flattery, gri- maces, and gesticulations, enacting, as was thought, a fight. He had picked up a few words of English, which he did not fail to make use of to attract attention. Owing to the necessity of getting under way,
BOWDITCH ISLAND. 31
his visit terminated at an early hour. He left the ship apparently very much gratified with his visit, or, in other words, with the presents he had received.
On the 22d, they took leave of their kind friends, the missionaries and residents, with many wishes that they might be successful in their operations. The winds were light, and two days were spent before they reached the harbour of Saluafata, where they anchored on the evening of the 24th.
At daylight, orders were sent to Acting-Master Knox, in charge of the tender, to anchor, with the assistance of the boats, abreast of the town of Saluafata, to cover the landing party, and clear the town. At the same time, special orders were given by Captain Hudson to the first lieutenant (Mr. Walker) of the Peacock, placing under his direction the boats of that ship. These will be found in Appendix I.
On an examination of the passage through the reef, Mr. Knox reported, contrary to the account given by Lieutenant Emmons when he surveyed the harbour, that there was not water enough for the tender. Fearing some difficulty, Captain Hudson had anchored the Peacock as near the reef as possible, and not wishing to risk the tender in any way, countermanded part of his orders, and determined to clear the town with the Peacock’s guns, being aware that none but the fighting men remained, and that all their valuables and movable pro- perty had been removed.
Preparations were therefore made for swinging the broadside to the town, and the necessary arrangements for landing completed. Captain Hudson, however, still thought it proper to wait a few hours, in the hope of receiving some communication from the natives, and that they would at the last moment, agree to give up or punish the murderer. But no overtures whatever being made, at nine o’clock the boats were manned, and lay on their oars, ready for the signal to proceed. A fire was now opened from the ship, the balls -being elevated so as to pass over the town; after which the boats pushed for the shore, the party landed, and the town of Saluafata, which consisted of about seventy- five houses, was reduced to ashes. The towns of Fusi and Salelese, of some fifty more, shared the same fate. The party then returned to the ship, without any accident to themselves or the natives, having met with no opposition whatever, notwithstanding the great boastings and bravado messages which had been sent by the chiefs and in- habitants.
This act was performed with great reluctance, and not until the most perfect conviction of its being absolutely necessary to secure the safety of the crews of such of our whaling fleet as touch at this island,
32 BOWDITCH ISLAND.
as well as to restore the respect due to our flag and those who sail under it, and to correct the erroneous opinion, that our forbearance was the result of fear of their prowess and numbers. In their transac- tions, and outrages committed on strangers, they had exhibited a fearlessness and spirit of daring that it was time to put a stop to. By this attack upon them, they became fully sensible that they were not our equals in war, nor capable of resisting attacks that might be made on them; they have in consequence become much more humble, so that the general opinion throughout the islands is, that hereafter they must conform to the regulations they made on our former visit, and maintain them with strict integrity towards foreigners.
Since this transaction, I have received letters from the island of Upolu, which inform me that this well-deserved punishment has had a most happy effect, and has put a termination to evils that had formerly been of common occurrence.
Communication was had with Apia the day after, the natives of which town rather exulted in the punishment that had taken place.
In leaving the harbour of Saluafata, the Peacock had a narrow escape from wreck; for, as they were standing out of the passage, they were overtaken by a heavy squall, with torrents of rain, and it being near the close of the day, pitchy darkness ensued, and breakers were unexpectedly found under their lee. There was no possibility of returning; but by carrying a press of canvass, they succeeded in getting clear, and an offing was attained by ten o’clock, when it fell calm.
During the day they were at anchor in Saluafata Harbour, the thermometer stood on board the ship at 93° in the shade, and at 150° in the sun. It was found oppressively warm, notwithstanding there was a fine breeze blowing.
The chief Opotuno, who had committed so many murders, was still at large, and it was conceived that if he could be taken, it would be an example that would be long remembered. For this purpose, it was believed that by obtaining Pea, the chief of Manono, to whom Opotuno was related, the latter would be given up.
The duty of taking the former was entrusted to Lieutenant Em- mons, under whose charge the tender was put, and instructions given him to proceed to Manono, make the chief prisoner without injury to him or the inhabitants of that island; and in case of his capture, to proceed to Savaii, and there offer an asylum to Mr. M’Donald, the missionary resident in Opotuno’s district. Lieutenants Walker and De Haven, were employed the same night to capture Malietoa, and the chief George, of Cocoa-nut Point. Captain Hudson’s instructions
BOWDITCH ISLAND. 33
to this party, as well as those to Lieutenant Emmons, will be found in Appendix II.
Neither of these parties succeeded in their attempts. The reports of the officers are also included in Appendix II.
On the evening of the 5th, they anchored in the roadstead of Ma- taatu, island of Savaii. They had constant rain and squally weather, with a strong gale of wind from the northwest.
I was somewhat in hopes that this visit would have led to a further knowledge of the interior of Savaii, and of its numerous craters, which would have enabled us to make a comparison with those of Hawaii, for, from appearances, and so far as information could be obtained, the discharges from the terminal crater of Savaii must be similar with those of Mauna Loa. It will be recollected that Dr. Pickering endea- voured, during our first visit to the Samoan Group, to reach what was termed the “run” or burnt district, and which no doubt resembles the flows of lava that have taken place on Hawaii, of which particular descriptions have been given.
The weather was so unfavourable, that Captain Hudson deemed it imprudent to make any delay in so exposed a roadstead, and they ac- cordingly left it, after ascertaining its position, and making a farther survey and examination of it.
The town of Mataatu is beautifully situated on a bay, which is no more than a mere indentation of the coast. It is surrounded by extensive cocoa-nut groves, behind which the houses are built, in number about four hundred. The town contains about two thou- sand inhabitants, most of whom are still heathens, and their conduct proved it as much as their looks, for they were more rude and ill- looking than any other natives observed in the group, and reminded the officers of the Feejeeans. This place is the residence of Mr. Pratt, a missionary, who has been established here since the visit of the Por- poise.
Captain Hudson considers the bay of Mataatu as much exposed at all seasons; but between the 1st of December and the end of March, when the north and northwest winds and gales prevail, it is quite dan- gerous, and should not be visited.
The natives of Savaii are well acquainted with Uea or Wallis Island, to the westward. The west point of the bay is called Matauea, “ face of Uea,” after the name of the island in that direction.
Some of their spears, clubs, &c., were quite different from those used among the other Samoans, and were in all probability derived from the above island. These facts, in connexion with the winds at this season, are satisfactory evidence that there is no difficulty in the
VOL. V. 5
84 BOWDITCH ISLAND.
natives migrating to the eastward; indeed, if they are driven off by unforeseen storms, this is the season that these accidents would be most likely to happen, and their migrations to take place. On reference to the currents and winds, as exhibited throughout the progress of the voyage on the Track Map, it will be seen that there is no difficulty in these migrations being made from west to east.
BOWDITCH ISLANDERS.
CHAU TER OBE:
CONTENTS.
THE PEACOCK AND TENDER LEAVE THE SAMOAN GROUP—ELLICE’S GROUP—CANOES —ITS NATIVES—THEIR LANGUAGE—DEPEYSTER’S ISLAND—ITS NATIVES—ALBINOS— CLOTHING OF ITS INHABITANTS—THEIR SYMBOL OF PEACE—WOMAN AND CHIEF OF THE ISLAND—FOOD OF THE NATIVES—HARBOUR—VISIT FROM THE KING—THE NATIVES’ KNOWLEDGE OF OTHER LANDS—THEIR RELIGION —SPEIDEN’S ISLAND— HUDSON’S ISLAND—ST. AUGUSTINE—DRUMMOND’S ISLAND—ITS NATIVES — THEIR HEAD-DRESS— THEIR LANGUAGE—THEIR WEAPONS—THEIR DEFENSIVE ARMOUR— THEIR ORNAMENTS~THEIR CANOES—A PARTY LANDS AT UTIROA—ITS RECEPTION —RUDENESS AND PILFERING OF THE NATIVES—DANCE—SECOND VISIT TO UTIROA —RECEPTION IN THE COUNCIL-HOUSE—INCREASED RUDENESS OF THE NATIVES— ONE OF THE SEAMEN MISSING — MESSAGE SENT TO THE UTIROANS —'TTOWNS ON DRUMMOND’S ISLAND —DETERMINATION TO PUNISH UTIROA FOR THE MURDER — EXPEDITION AGAINST THAT TOWN — PARLEY WITH ITS INHABITANTS — UTIROA BURNT — CONDUCT OF THE NATIVES OF ETA —CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE OF DRUMMOND’S ISLAND — SUPPLIES FOR SHIPS — BISHOP’S ISLAND — HENDERVILLE ISLAND—HALL’S ISLAND— APAMAMA—JOHN KIRBY TAKEN ON BOARD—WOODLE’S ISLAND—DISGRACEFUL CONDUCT OF AN ENGLISH WHALER—ERRORS OF CHARTS— TARAWA—APIA—IDOL—THE TENDER GROUNDS—DRIFT OF THE PEACOCK—THREAT- ENED ATTACK ON THE TENDER—MATTHEW’S ISLAND—PITT’S ISLAND —MAKIN— ROBERT WOOD TAKEN ON BOARD—NATIVES OF PITT’S ISLAND—THEIR CANOES— THEIR TREATMENT OF FEMALES—KING TEKERE AND HIS RELATIVES—A NATIVE DESIRES TO BE TAKEN FROM THE ISLAND.
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CHAPTER II. ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.
1841.
On the 6th of March, the Peacock and Flying-Fish sailed from the roadstead of Mataatu, for the islands known on the chart of Arrow- smith as Ellice’s Group.
On the 7th, they lost sight of the Samoan Isles.
The vessels pursued their course to the westward, with a fresh wind from north-northeast, until the 14th, when they crossed the meridian of 180°, and dropped a day in their reckoning.
The temperature of the air during this part of the passage from the Samoan Isles had increased from 76° to 84°, and that of the water from 78° to 86°.
At noon, on the 14th, they made land, and by 2 p. m., they were close to what proved to be an extensive ring of small islets, situated on a coral reef surrounding a lagoon. ‘These are so far separated as to give the idea of distinct islands, which has probably led to their having the name of “group.” These islets are well covered with cocoa-nut and other trees, which give them a sufficient elevation to be seen at ten or twelve miles distance. The reef which links these islets is awash, over which the sea breaks with violence. There are two openings in its west side, and an island off its southwest point, at the distance of a mile, five miles in length by two in width. The island is thirteen miles long, in a north-by-east and south-by-west direction, and seven miles and two-tenths east and west.
When the vessels had approached within a short distance of the largest island, two canoes were seen coming towards the ship, only one of which came near. In it were five men; and from the familiar manner in which they came alongside, it was evident they had had fre-
quent communication with vessels. ‘They refused to come on board, D (37)
38 ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.
but exhibited various articles of traffic, consisting of cocoa-nuts, mats, rolls of sennit, maros, large wooden fish-hooks, war-knives and swords fitted with sharks’ teeth, and some rough war-clubs. Their canoe was in construction much more rude and rough than any met with of similar size: it was about twenty feet long, dug out of a single log, and the sides had strips lashed on to raise them higher. It had an out-rigger and paddles very similar to those seen at the other islands.
These natives were, in general appearance, inferior to those of the Samoan Islands, of middle size, and with deep brown complexions, like the Hawaiians, whom they were thought also to resemble in features; but they were well provided with beard, in which respect they resemble the Feejees. They wore their hair, which was thick and bushy, long. One of them was observed to have it parted into five or six large clubs of hair, hanging loose about his head, and resembling large foxes’ tails.
NATIVE OF ELLICE’S ISLAND.
They were tattooed differently from any heretofore seen, their arms being covered, from the shoulder to the wrist, with small curved figures or zigzag lines. They had this tattooing also on the body, extending from the armpits to the waist, and down, until the whole body was encompassed in the same manner. No marks were observed on the face or legs, but on two of them were a few lines across the small of the back. They wore no clothing, but a strip of fine matting, as a maro, and a coarser piece tied about the hips: the first, which was made of the pandanus-leaf, was about eight inches wide, and ten feet long, and was fringed on each side, which increased its width. The coarser girdle was worn, and attached to it were slips of pandanus-
ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP. 39
leaf, a foot long, dyed red, by way of ornament, which at a distance had the appearance of ribands.
One of the men was a petty chief, and was held in respect by his companions. There was another, whose costume was very peculiar: around the head and waist he had a strip of pandanus-leaves, which was so arranged as to form a series of points. The attitudes of these natives were equally singular: one of these is represented in the wood-cut.
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an A i Fi AWN AM
COSTUME, ELLICE’S GROUP.
They had no other weapons but spears and knives, and seemed to be equipped for a fishing party, from the implements they had with them. Some rolls of sennit were bought, and large wooden shark- hooks. Their spears were only poles of cocoanut-wood, pointed at one end; and their knives made of small shark’s teeth, inserted into a stick with gum and fine sennit, and are about a foot long.
It was soon found that they understood the Samoan language, and spoke a purely Polynesian dialect. The Samoan native easily con- versed with them. ‘They gave the name of the island as Fanafute. They seemed perfectly familiar with white men, and when the guns were fired for a base by sound, they showed no kind of alarm.
40 ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.
The island was surveyed, and was found to be in latitude 8° 30’ 45” S., longitude 179° 13’ 30" E. There appears to be good anchorage within the lagoon; an abundance of wood is to be had, but it is believed there is no adequate supply of fresh water.
From what was ascertained, the population was put down at two hundred and fifty souls.
The vessels left Ellice’s Group the same evening, proceeded under easy sail, and at daylight made the Depeyster Islands, distant three and a half miles to the northwest. The two following days, they had squally weather, accompanied with heavy rains, with the wind north- ward, which obliged them to stand off from the island, as no work could be done. The island was thus lost sight of, but on the 17th it was again made from aloft, to the northward and westward.
On the 18th, the trade-wind set in and brought fine weather; but exceedingly warm, the thermometer standing at 85° in the shade.
They surveyed this island; and on the same day Tracy’s Island, whose native name is Oaitupu, was in sight to the eastward. The observations placed it in latitude 7° 28’ S., and longitude 178° 43’ 35” EK. It is well covered with trees, and to all appearance as extensive as Depeyster Island. As the wind was direcily contrary, and a strong current flowing to the west, Captain Hudson thought it would be a waste of time to attempt to reach it.
Several canoes, with the natives of Depeyster’s Group or Island, came off to the ship: they used triangular sails, similar to those of the rest of Polynesia. The natives proved to be of the same race as those of Ellice’s Group; speaking the same language, and tattooed after the same fashion.
In colour, however, many of them were rather darker; but few were above the middle size, and none of them had the manly beauty of the Samoans. A greater variety of fashions prevailed among them, which exhibited itself more particularly in their hair. Some wore it like that of the Feejees, and the locks were frequently of a reddish brown, although the natural colour was black. Their skin was coarse and rough to the touch; in many it was disfigured after a singular fashion, and in some it appeared as if a scurf prevailed, resembling a person whose skin was peeling off from the effects of the sun; in others, the stage of the disease was seen farther advanced, the scurf having disappeared, and left the skin marked with circular and wavy lines, which the natives called “tafa.”* About a fifth part of the natives
* A name the Samoans apply to the marks they burn on the skin for mourning. This was imputed to the effects of a disease somewhat allied to the ringworm, by the medical
ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP. 41
seen were affected in this manner; and the skin of these was much lighter than in any Polynesian race they had met with. Among the natives were two albinos; the colour of their skin was of a reddish white, the hair of a flaxen white, with light-blue eyes, so weak as to oblige them to use a shade, and to keep their eyes constantly half closed, Their persons seemed also to be quite tender, and they avoided expo- sure to the sun by an additional mat over the shoulders. They were covered in many places with large brown freckles: their whole ap- pearance was any thing but pleasing. The account they gave of themselves was, that their parents were the same as the rest of the islanders, and that their other children were dark.
The tattooing was in great variety on the body; but in all, the arms were tattooed alike, for there it varied only in quantity. On the body it was frequently extended across the back and to the abdomen; and in many, the bodies and thighs were tattooed down as far as the knee. Many of the natives designated the figures as intended to represent pigeons (lupe).
These islanders wore three kinds of mats, made of the pandanus- leaf: one was similar to that described at Ellice’s Group, and worn as a maro; another was worn as a girdle, of thick fringe, from eight inches to a foot broad, tied about the loins so as to cover in part the maro: to this they gave the name of “takai;” the last was used as a wrapper about the body and legs. The fringes of these mats were all dyed of various colours, and the wrapper was tinged on one side in large patterns of divers colours, some in squares, others in diamond forms, which at a little distance had a pretty effect. These mats were worn for different purposes; and the latter seemed to belong to the higher or privileged orders, as the only person who was seen to wear one was the chief. A great many of these mats were brought off for sale, and bought.
On their approach to the ship, every one was seen to have a cocoa- nut leaflet tied around the neck,—a practice which attracted particular notice by their endeavour to keep it constantly in view, from which it was inferred, it might be with them a sign of amity and peace. In all, the lobe of the ear was bored, and distended to the size of an inch in diameter ; around this they insert small rings of tortoise-shell, so neatly made that it is difficult to discern the place where they are Joined. Many of them had shells and mother-of-pearl ornaments sus- pended round their necks.
officers, while others thought it might have resulted from exposure to the sun, and moisture of the climate. VOL. V. D2 6
42 ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.
Only one woman was seen in the canoes, and every endeavour was made to induce her to come on board, that her likeness might be pro- cured, but without effect; she could not be prevailed upon. She was prepossessing in her appearance, with a pleasing expression of coun- tenance, and had a modest demeanour. She wore a cincture around her waist, and a mat over her bosom. ‘The cincture was made of pandanus-leaves ; this was fastened to a cord as a thick fringe, two feet in length, and extended to her knees. Her arms were beautifully tattooed, of the same figure as the men, but the tattooing was con- tinued down the leg in horizontal stripes, an inch and a half wide. This constitutes a great difference from the Polynesians, for with them we have never before met with any females who were tattooed, except- ing a few marks on the fingers and feet.
Twenty or thirty of these natives came on board, while the rest remained in the canoes, of which there were about fifteen, having an average of five natives to each. Their desire was to exchange their articles for hatchets and plane irons: iron-articles of all kinds were in great demand, together with beads and rings.
After they had exhausted their desire for trade, some few of them went below, and entertained the officers with a dance and song, both of which resembled those of Polynesia, which have been heretofore described.
In the afternoon the chief paid the ship a visit. He was styled both the god and chief of the island, and was a very fine-looking man, about forty years of age, and grave in his deportment. He reckoned six towns on the island, five of them on the northeast side, and one on the southwest. The population was estimated at one thousand.
The natives said that they had pigs and taro, and brought off some of the latter; but it was small, both in size and quantity. The only articles of food that the natives had with them in their canoes were the young cocoa-nut and the fruit of the pandanus. The former were, for the most part, quite young, and fit only for drinking; but there were some that were old and filled with pulp, to which they gave the name of utanu, and of which they seemed very fond. Besides taro, they said that they had a much larger root, called “ pulaka.” Yams and bananas they knew by name, but had none of them.
An opening being discovered as the ship passed along the reef, Lieu- tenant De Haven was sent to examine it, and he found a good ship- channel into the lagoon. The passage was one-third of a mile wide, and the least depth of water in it was five fathoms. It leads to an anchorage in from seventeen to twenty fathoms, on a sandy bottom, where a vessel may lie well protected by the reef. The current was
ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP. 43
found to be setting out of this passage at the rate of two and a half miles per hour.
When Lieutenant De Haven returned, he was accompanied by the chief, who called himself both the chief and god of the island, Foilape. He was a fine-looking man, about forty years of age, with prominent features, his hair cut short and nicely oiled. His legs were swollen with the elephantiasis. He was gaily dressed, with both the maro and girdle, beside the square mat of various colours around his waist. He saluted the officers with the rubbing of noses, and said that his name had been Faikatea, which he had changed with Lieutenant De Haven. He remained but a short time on board, and explained by his motions the necessity of his leaving the ship before the sun went down. He was very urgent that some of them should accompany him, and pass the night at his village ; but finding nobody disposed to do so, he departed, and the rest soon followed.
This island was called by the natives Nukufetau; they were ac- quainted with Fanafute, or Ellice’s Island, and also with Oaitupu, or Tracy’s Island. On being asked if these were all the lands they knew of, they said, pointing to the east, that beyond Oaitupu there were three islands, called Oatafu, Nukunono, and Fakaafo, which it will be recol- lected are those of the Union Group. Mr. Hale pressed the inquiry, if this were all; and with some hesitation they added the name of Oloo- singa, which is one of the small eastern islands of the Samoan Group ; but what seemed strange, they did not understand the name of Samoa. On mentioning Tonga and Haabai, the names appeared to be recog- nised. Some bananas attracting their attention, which they saw hanging up, they called futi o rotuma! Myr. Hale, in his inquiries, found the pronunciations of these natives very distinct, and it enabled him better to understand the orthography of their names.
These islanders gave the name of their god as Foilape: on inquiry being made if the Tui-Tokelau also lived there, they immediately replied, that he was the god of Fakaafo, thus exhibiting an intimate acquaintance with the Union Group. It is not a little remarkable that many of the officers were struck with the great likeness that the chief of the island, Faikatea, bore to Taupe, of Fakaafo. At Fakaafo, mention was made of an island called Pokapoka: this name the natives of Nukufetau recognised immediately, and said that it was an island thickly inhabited. We have not been able to ascertain with what island the name can be associated. All these circumstances induced a strong belief that these islanders were derived, at no very remote period, from those of the Union Group ; and the fact of the latter being entirely ignorant of other lands, would lead more strongly to that belief.
44 ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.
When Mr. Hale pronounced the name of Tagaloa, the great deity of Polynesia, it appeared to surprise and annoy them. One of them mentioned that Tagaloa was a god taboo to their country, and refused to speak farther about him.
They reported that ten ships had visited their island, and added that a ship of the Wiwi people had spent some days about their island in fishing: that the captain, with five others, had slept on shore. It was conjectured that Wiwi was the appellation by which they distinguish the French people or ships, this term being made use of in New Zealand. ‘The invitations to go on shore were accompanied by such significant signs as to lead to the conclusion that they were not the most virtuous people, and very unlike their ancestors, or race of the Union Group, whose only desire seemed to be to get rid of the parties before night.
The extreme north island was found in latitude 7° 56’ 11” S., longi- tude 178° 27’ 32” E.: it is eight miles long, east-northeast and west- southwest ; its greatest width is nearly the same.
The vessels left Nukufetau the same evening, and steered away to the northward. In latitude 6° 10’ S., and longitude 177° 41’ E., they passed a small island which has no lagoon, and does not appear to be named on any of the charts. This they saw at some distance, and although it appears to have been seen before, yet as the charts only designate it as an island, I have bestowed upon it the name of Speiden, after the purser of the Peacock, one of the most valuable officers of the Expedition.
On the 24th, they fell in with another island, in latitude 6° 19’ S., longitude 176° 23' 15’. EK. This discovery I have called Hudson, after Captain Hudson. It was surveyed and found to be but one mile and four-tenths long, north and south, and nine-tenths of a mile wide, east and west. This island is inhabited, a few natives being seen on the beach, and several houses under cocoa-nut trees on its west side. It is of coral formation, has no lagoon, and can be seen about eight or ten miles. There are reefs extending from its north and south points nearly half a mile, on which the surf breaks heavily. They had no communication with its inhabitants.
On the 25th, they passed the small island of St. Augustine, whose position as ascertained was in latitude 5° 35' S., and longitude 176° 06' E. It appeared well wooded, but being to windward, it could not be reached without much delay. The wind, thus far, among these islands, had been from the north, and very unfavourable for a vessel cruising among them for their examination; and being light and variable, little progress could be made in any direction.
ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP. 45
Until the 3d of April, they continued to sail to the northward, without meeting with any islands. On that day they made Drum- mond’s Island of the charts, one of the Kingsmill Group, where they encountered the regular northeast trades. ‘This island is called Tapu- teouea by the natives; it is situated in latitude 1° 20’ S., and longi- tude 174° 57’ BE. It is of coral formation, is thirty miles long ina northwest and southeast direction, and varies in width from a half to three quarters of a mile. This, however, only includes the high por- tions, or that which is above the ocean level a few feet. It is thinly covered with cocoa-nut and pandanus-trees, and not a patch of grass is to be seen, or any sort of shrubbery or undergrowth. To the leeward, or on its west side, the reefs and sand-banks extend off some distance, gradually increasing from the northwest point to the south- east, where they are as much as six and a half miles in width. This reef is interrupted in places, and there is good anchorage off the town of Utiroa, towards the northwest end, near a small sand-bank, which is usually bare. The whole shore of the island as they ap- proached it appeared covered with houses, presenting to the view one continuous village. At intervals of a mile there were buildings of huge proportions, far exceeding in size any they had before met with.
As they approached, canoes were seen coming towards them from all parts of the island. The appearance of these natives was totally different from those already seen to the south. They appeared of the middle size, slender, and well proportioned. Their colour was a shade or two darker than that of the Tahitians, and they exhibited a greater variety of face and features, with black glossy hair, finer than in other races. Their features were small, but high and well marked ; their eyes large, black, and bright; their nose straight or slightly aquiline, and always somewhat widened at the base; their mouth large, with full lips and small teeth, which were very imperfect from decay, and they are the only natives in the Pacific with this defect. From the projection of the cheek-bones, the eyes had in some the appearance of being sunken. They wore mustaches, but their beards were scanty. They evidently set a great value on these as ornaments, priding themselves much upon their appearance. The few officers who had whiskers were very much admired, the natives patting their whiskered cheeks with great marks of admiration.
Altogether they were thought to resemble the Malays. Many of them were observed to have the same disease as exists at Ellice’s Islands, disfiguring the body and giving it the same scurfy and dis- gusting appearance.
46 ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.
The majority of these islanders go entirely naked, excepting a covering for the head, consisting usually of the bleached pandanus- leaf. Mr. Agate’s sketch of one, represented in the wood-cut, will give an idea of this head-dress.
» Ay yf
DRUMMOND’S ISLANDER.
Although it has been said that the majority go naked, it must not be understood that the rest are clothed, for they wear no more than a sort of girdle, which, however, serves no purposes of decency, only covering the abdomen, and lower part of the back. Some few had over their shoulders a strip of matting, with a hole in the centre for the head to pass through, in order to protect their bodies from the sun. A few were tattooed very lightly, and in some it was scarcely distin- guishable. Those that were so adorned had it from the breast to the ankles, consisting of short oblique marks, an inch or two in length, drawn parallel a quarter of an inch apart: there was a space both before and behind, of three inches wide, from the neck down, that was uncovered. No tattooing was seen on the face and arms. These natives soon showed that they were familiar and had had frequent intercourse with vessels, for on coming alongside, their first cry was for “rope.” They had also a few Polynesian words of the different islands and groups that could be recognised, which they had obtained from the vessels that at various times had visited their island.
Their own language was totally different, and none on board could comprehend it.
ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP. 47
When they arrived alongside, they made much clamour and many gesticulations, but refused to leave their canoes. After some enticing, one was induced to venture on board. ‘They evidently comprehended that the vessel was of a different character from what they had been accustomed to see. The one who gained the deck showed much agi- tation, but when he saw the arm-chest opened and a musket taken out, his fears were too much for him, and he at once sprang over the stern into the water, and swam to his canoe. Others came on board, but they in their turn, were frightened in like manner, and took to their canoes.
The arms and legs of a large proportion of the natives exhibited numerous scars, many of which were still unhealed. These had been made with shark’s-teeth swords, such as were seen at the Depeyster Group, weapons which are calculated rather to make severe gashes than dangerous wounds. The spears are equally formidable, and four rows of shark’s teeth are inserted in them; some are of the uncommon lensth of twenty feet, but they are usually about eight or ten feet long, and have prongs projecting from their sides also armed with teeth. A drawing of these arms is given in the wood-cut at the end of the chapter.
They were evidently in the habit of having severe conflicts with one another, and war seems to be one of the principal employments of this people.
In order to guard against the destructive effect of these arms, they had invented a kind of armour, which was almost an effectual defence against their weapons, and accounted at once for their arms and legs being the only parts where scars were seen. This consisted of a sort of cuirass, covering the body as far down as the hips, and rising above the back of the head three or four inches. This, when taken off and set upon the deck, somewhat resembled a high-backed chair. It was made of plaited cocoanut-husk fibres, woven into as solid and compact a mass as if it had been made of board half an inch thick, and was as stiff as a coat of mail. For the legs and arms, they have also a covering of netted sennit of the same material, which they put on. That for the legs resembles a pair of overhauls, such as sailmakers use, with straps over the shoulders. The covering for the arms is drawn on in like manner. The appearance of the body was as if it were clothed in pantaloons and jacket of a deep brown colour. This they must find a very inconvenient covering for their hot climate. However singular the body-dress is, that of the head is still more so: it consists of the skin of the porcupine-fish, cut open at the head, and stretched sufficiently large to admit the head of a man. It is perfectly
48 ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.
round, with the tail sticking upwards, and the two fins acting as a covering and guard for the ears: its colour is perfectly white, and by its toughness and spines affords protection against the native weapons.
ao ne Ot ry ~ )
Wa Sas AS duis aaa EN a eels
DRUMMOND’S ISLAND WARRIORS,
The ornaments which the natives wore, were strings of beads and human hair. The beads were strung alternately, black and white, and were made of shell and of cocoanut-wood. The strings of human hair resembled watch-guards, and some of them were of the size of packthread. Although the manufacture of this article must have been tedious, yet a great quantity of it was brought off, and bartered for some plugs of tobacco, and a few whales’ teeth. Their mats, likewise, constituted an ornament: they were slips of the pandanus braided, and some of these had been bleached, and were of a light straw-colour ; others were unbleached and brown: these were interwoven together, so as to produce many kinds of figures, in squares, lozenges, and dia- monds. They wore these folded twice, so as to form a triple thickness, which they passed over one shoulder as a scarf, or round the body, securing it with a cord of human hair; the folds of this answered the purposes of pockets, for putting away the tobacco and other articles they had obtained by barter. In default of a mat, they used the lining or upper part of their hat or cap. These mats are about three feet wide by six long.
ELLICES AND KINGSMILL GROUP. 49
Their chief desire was to obtain tobacco, of which they seem to be extravagantly fond; it was their constant request, and whilst in their canoes alongside, or on deck, the cry was constantly “tebake.” It was not begged as a gift; for, what appeared singular enough for South Sea islanders, they seemed to have no idea of receiving any thing as a gratuity, but instantly made a return of something for what- ever was given them. So eager were they after it, that when one had put a piece in his mouth, others would seize him, and actually force it out with their fingers.
Besides the mats, they had fans, fly-brushes, and baskets of different sizes and shapes, with nets and hooks for fishing. Some had wigs, and others carved images, all of which were readily parted with for tobacco. Another article which was brought off for sale, was a kind of treacle, made from the sap of the cocoa-nut tree, which they had in cocoa-nut shells: into these they frequently thrust their fingers, and drawing them through their mouths, smacked their lips most signifi- cantly of its goodness.
The canoes of these natives were different from those of any other islanders: their average length is from twelve to fifteen feet; they are from two to three feet deep, and vary from fifteen inches to two feet in width. Each canoe has six or eight timbers in its construction;
KINGSMILL CANOE,
they are well modelled, built in frames, and have much sheer. The boards are cut from the cocoa-nut tree, from a few inches to six or eight feet long, and vary from five to seven inches in width. These are arranged as the planking of a vessel, and very neatly put together, being sewed with sennit; for the purpose of making them water-tight, they use a slip of the pandanus-leaf, inserted as our coopers do in flag- ging a cask. They have evinced much ingenuity in attaching the upright to the flat timbers, which are so secured as to have all the motion of a double joint, which gives them ease and comparative secu- rity in a sea-way, and thus renders them capable of withstanding the waves. They use an out-rigger, much smaller than those of other islands, and the staging or platform covers less space. One of the sides is nearly flat, in which respect they resemble the proa of the Ladrones, as figured in Anson’s Voyages. VOL. V. E
7
50 ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.
They are expert at managing their canoes, and seldom use their paddles, which are miserably made, of a piece of cocoa-nut board or tortoise-shell, about six inches square, attached to a round stick; on this account they prefer using their sails. These are triangular, with an inclined or raking mast; they are worked in sailing precisely as those described in the Feejee Islands, keeping the out-rigger always to windward, and tacking in the same way. Their masts are in two or three pieces, as well as the yards, and the whole construction shows that wood is exceedingly scarce, and that it is very difficult to procure enough of it; as a cocoa-nut tree, of which they are made, will yield only two planks, in the mode in which they saw them out. One of the canoes, from the town of Utiroa, which came alongside the first day, was seen to be in part constructed from the bulwarks of a merchant vessel, which had some time before been wrecked; probably of an English ship, as a wreck was reported to have been seen lying on the reef in the beginning of March, 1839.
On the night of the 4th, they were set strongly by the current to the westward, and by morning were fifteen miles to leeward, and out of sight of the island.
On the 5th, they succeeded in regaining their position. Many canoes came off, which continued increasing throughout the day, until at one time eighty were counted from the ship, some of which contained from ten to fifteen persons. Many of these ventured on board, and became satisfied of the friendly intentions towards them, though they still seemed to be under some apprehensions from the number of men on board and the size of the ship. The guns fired in the operation for surveying increased their alarm; many jumped overboard at every discharge, and concealed themselves behind their canoes.
In the afternoon, Captain Hudson on sounding found a bank, on which he anchored, in fifteen fathoms water, at the distance of four miles from the island.
The next morning, the tender was despatched, with two boats, under Lieutenants Emmons and De Haven, to continue the survey.
On the 6th, soon after daylight, they had from thirty to forty canoes alongside with different articles of trade; and ninety-two others were in sight from the deck, with from four to five natives in each.
Early in the day, three boats were despatched for the town of Utiroa, to acquire a knowledge of the place and its inhabitants. In them were thirty men, well armed, which was thought to be a sufh- cient force to secure the officers and naturalists from any attack. Opposite to the town of Utiroa is a long flat, over which, at ebb tide,
ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP. 51
a boat will not float; and, as it was low water, it became necessary to walk through the shallow to the beach, which was nearly a quarter of a mile distant.
A very brisk trade was carried on for provisions and articles of curiosity. They had some small fish, which were much esteemed. The fowls offered for sale, as usual among the Polynesian islands, were all cocks, and proved old and tough. These were brought off in neat cages.
Several women were among the crowd, with delicate features and a lively expression of countenance, but remarkably small. Their covering was a girdle, made almost altogether of fringe fastened to a string, which was passed round the body. This garment had, at a distance, a more graceful look even than the “titi” of Samoa. This it obtains from being made pliable by steeping it in some peculiar mixture, which was thought by some of the officers to have the odour of tobacco and molasses. ‘The women were much less tattooed than the men; but, as at the other southern islands, in the same style with them.
SE a OO RISE e “NAS TAIL AAR. | SOUL EN SRERISGIM GULL 7
WOMAN OF DRUMMOND’S ISLAND.
The same custom was in vogue here that prevails at most of the Polynesian islands, of rubbing noses and exchanging names.
Along the shore of this island, in front of the villages or towns, there are long lines of stone walls, from one to two feet high, serving as fish-weirs or pens. In passing to the shore, they saw a party of
52 ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.
men and women engaged in driving a school of fish into one of them, with long lines fringed with pandanus-leaves, used like a seine, some- what resembling that before described at Savaii: these fishers took no notice whatever of our party.
When they had approached within one hundred yards of the beach, the natives came forward to meet them; and within a short distance from the beach they passed a small, old, and dilapidated house, built on piles, about eight feet above the water: this old fabric, as we after- wards found, was made use of for telegraphic signals, in case of de- siring assistance from their neighbours.
The party were cordially received, both by the men and women, who did not hesitate to advance: all were uncovered, and the majority were women and children. Some of the women were the prettiest that had yet been seen in the South Sea islands; slender and grace- fully formed. Their complexion was of a clear brown, with full bright eyes, thick and glossy black hair; and they appeared by no means unconscious of their charms.
The men became at once familiar and rude, seizing their arms and putting their own about the officers’ necks, desiring to lead them on- ward, until they were obliged to use violence to keep them off.
They reached the beach near what the natives termed their “ mari- apa,” or council-house, one of the large buildings that had been before spoken of as visible from the sea. This staads in front of the town, on a broad wharf, made of coral stones, built out from the beach; its dimensions, as measured, were one hundred and twenty feet long, by forty-five feet wide, and to the ridge-pole forty feet high. The ridge- pole was supported by five large posts, whence the roof sloped on each side and reached within three feet of the ground; the rafters descended to a wall-plate, which rested on large blocks of white coral, and were also supported by smaller posts, ten feet in length, near the sides. At the ends, the roof was perpendicular for eight or ten feet, and then they sloped off in the same manner as the sides. The roof was thatched with pandanus-leaves.
The crowd on the beach rapidly increased, pressing around, shouting, gesticulating, and catching hold of them, to express their joy at the visit : at the same time stealing the tobacco they had brought to barter, which operation was performed very dexterously.
No chiefs, however, came forward to receive them when they ad- vanced towards the mariapa, and entered, by passing under the roof. Many natives were inside, who closed around them, and set up a clamour that was deafening. The heat also was oppressive, and with the rancid oil on their bodies, was almost stifling.
AS) Wa
ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP. 53
An old man soon made his appearance, whose deportment, and that of the crowd, pointed him out as the chief. He had, apparently, little actual authority, for his presence seemed to have no effect in silencing the natives. He pointed to the palisade around the town, whither he invited them at once to go, and conducted them to his house. Very few of the natives followed. On entering the palisade of slender stakes, the village was found to be divided into lots, containing ten or twelve houses, and enclosed by fences. Each of these enclosures, it was supposed, belonged to a separate family.
The chief led the way to his house, and invited them to enter, which they did, and found its construction altogether different from any before | seen in the South Seas. There was nothing remarkable in its exterior ; it was of oblong shape, and about sixteen feet wide by twenty feet long. The interior consisted of two stories, of which the lower was not more than three feet high, under the floor of the upper story. It was entered by a square hole at one side. The apartment above was rather a loft or garret, which was high, and contained, apparently, all the valuables and goods of the occupant. The floor was made of small pieces of pandanus-boards, laid on slender beams of cocoanut-wood. It was afterwards understood that this arrangement of apartments was to guard against the inroad of the rats. The lower apartment is used for sleeping, while the upper is entirely for storing their goods and chattels. The wall-plates rest on four beams of cocoanut-wood, which are sup- ported by four posts, one at each corner. These posts are round, and perfectly smooth, so that the rats cannot climb them. The rafters and cross-pieces are mere poles, only an inch or two thick; the thatch is of pandanus-leaf, doubled over a slender stick, and tied down with sennit.
After they were seated, cocoa-nuts, with treacle and water, were brought them to drink. They then requested the chief, whose name was Tama, to show them the fresh-water wells and taro-beds. Under his guidance, they passed through the village, which was situated on a narrow strip of the island, very close to the beach. Beyond it, towards the interior (if the term may be used of that which is but half a mile wide) of the island, was a cocoa-nut grove, extending to the sea. The tall cocoa-nut trees scattered about, with here and there small clumps of pandanus, gave it a cool and refreshing shade, and produced an agreeable impression. Paths wound in every direction, and were quite visible, in consequence of the absence of underbrush. The sandy soil offered only a scanty growth of dry grass (a Sida). Around the houses of the natives were found Cordias, Hibiscus, and Ficus; but
they were all of small growth. The Draczna, of which the Samoans E2
54 ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.
make the titi, was also seen. The taro-pits were dug to the depth of eight or ten feet, and were fifty feet long by thirty broad; they were planted with taro and api, in rows: in the centre was a few inches of water, and the whole earth was moist. The taro, however, was small, although the natives gave an account of its growing to the length of two feet. The wells were fifteen feet deep; the water in them was brackish. ‘These excavations have been made at much cost of time and labour.
All the party on shore were much incommoded with the rudeness of the natives, who did all in their power to pilfer from them ; and, if their attention were diverted for a moment, the hands of a native were felt at their pockets. When detected, they would hold up their hands, with open palms, and laugh. This boldness was more especially confined to a few, and one in particular, a young chief, who was a tall, good- looking person, but had a vain and impudent expression of countenance, which was rendered disgusting by the kind of leprosy before spoken of. It is impossible to give a correct idea of the annoyances that our gentlemen were subjected to from the rudeness of some, the excess of civility of others, and the constant watchfulness that became necessary to avoid the pickpockets. An old man was about smearing himself in cocoanut-oil, with a cup full of salve, in which he would dip his fingers, and endeavour to rub them in their faces. This afforded much amuse- ment to the party, while the natives seemed astonished that the attempt was repulsed ; for there was little doubt of its being intended as a great compliment thus to anoint their guests.
In many instances they showed a disposition to get the officers into their power for some evil design. Messrs. Peale and Rich, who were both well armed, had crossed the island in search of birds, plants, and shells; on their return, they visited the town next adjoining to Utiroa, and but a short distance from it. On entering the town, their sus- picions were somewhat excited by the number of armed men around. Mr. Peale describes the natives as obliging them to sit down by forcing their legs from under them. These things were permitted to a certain extent, the natives all standing around armed; but a prompt- ness of action, and show of using their arms, extricated them from their difficulties.
In front of the mariapa were three or four houses of the common size, one of which was called by the natives te-o-tabu, or sacred enclosure, but it was only distinguished by its being supported at the corners on blocks of coral. The natives were unwilling that any one should enter this enclosure.
During the day, the greater part of the large number of natives they
ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP. 55
had seen, as in the case of those who came on board, were covered with scars, and the scurfy disease, or leprosy. Although the young women were quite pretty, the old were as remarkable for being hideous; of these, a few were seen to be afflicted with ophthalmia and elephantiasis. The maro of the men, although large, was not intended to serve the purposes of decency, but principally for the protection of the abdomen. Their hair was trimmed short in front, but was allowed to grow long behind, where it tapered to a point; in both sexes it was black and fine, with a slight tendency to curl.
After returning to the mariapa, Tama was asked to give them an exhibition of a dance. ‘This he endeavoured to do, but without re- ceiving much attention. At length, the young chief, whom they had found particularly troublesome, came forward, with an insolent and swaggering air, wrapped a mat round his body, from the waist to the knees, and began a dance similar to that of the Polynesian islanders, before described, consisting of movements of the hands and body, but with very little motion of the feet. When the dance was finished, the afternoon was far advanced; the party then returned to the boats, which they had now been able to draw near the beach, in consequence of the rise of the tide. On their way to the ship, the tiny canoes of the natives, with their small white triangular sails, were seen in all directions, coming to the shore. On board, it was believed that up- wards of a thousand had visited the ship in the course of the day.
On the afternoon of the 7th, a large party visited the town of Utiroa, equally well armed as the day before, and with the same instructions and cautions that no one should give cause of offence, and if any thing was offered for sale, to pay liberally for it. These precautions were enjoined, in consequence of the belief that the natives were a treache- rous and dangerous set of fellows, and were inclined to believe themselves invulnerable in their armour. An opportunity had been taken, before a large number, to show them that the cuirass, &c., was not proof against our weapons at any distance; for which purpose one of the coats of mail was hoisted up at the yard-arm, and fired at: the holes were then exhibited, but did not seem to produce much effect upon them. They manifested a decided disposition for warlike pur- suits, and ferocity was the most predominant trait in their character.
On the party’s landing, Captain Hudson moved towards the council- house, where they found a large concourse of people, most of them elderly men, who they were informed were the chiefs of the nation: they were directed to one corner, where sat the chief, whom they called Nea. He was a very decrepit old man, nearly bald, with shrivelled skin, and had a stare of vacant wonder; the nails of his
56 ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.
fingers had grown to the length of an inch. His name was Pakoro- koro. Some few presents were given him, but he took very little notice of them, appearing half stupified, and as soon as the articles were in his possession, they were snatched away by the bystanders, without the least shame or hesitation.
The mariapa was a very large building, and in the interior its architecture showed to much advantage: the ridge-pole, with the rafters, were painted in black bands, with points, and ornamented with a vast number of ovula-shells. Chests, made of the thin laths of the pandanus, somewhat resembling cane, were arranged around, about twenty feet apart: these contained only a few mats and cocoa- nuts, things of no value, and are supposed to be for the accommoda- tion of visiters, or used at their feasts. The floor was in places covered with mats of the cocoanut-leaf.
When the ceremony of reception was over, the natives appeared extremely desirous of separating the party, by leading them off in different directions, under the plea of showing them the town, and making them acquainted with some of the females. As soon as they were on the outside of the mariapa, they were surrounded by num- bers, and their pockets rifled of their contents in a short time.
Captain Hudson, after they had been an hour and a half on shore, ordered all the officers and boats’ crews down to the beach, being satisfied that it was quite time to depart, if he would prevent the collision which he had become apprehensive might take place. As they were assembling for the purpose of embarking, a noise was heard, resembling a sudden assault, from some of the houses near by, and on mustering the men, John Anderson, a seaman, was missing. Lieutenant Walker and Passed Midshipman Davis were sent, each with a few men, in the direction whence the report proceeded, but they saw nothing of him, and all was quiet at the enclosure. The natives began now to assemble in large numbers, armed, and things looked somewhat serious; for, as Passed Midshipman Davis returned to the beach, he was stoned, and one of the men received a severe blow. This was however borne without return. On inquiry, it was found that Anderson had been met but a few moments before the party was mustered. He was armed with a musket, pistol, and cutlass, and was esteemed one of the most correct and prudent men in the ship. The boats were now shoved off a short distance from the beach, and beyond the reach of the native arms, when several muskets were fired to notify him, and his name repeatedly called, which could have been heard in any part of the village; but no Anderson appeared. Captain Hudson finally came to the conclusion
2 &
-e\— \E GaN | oe \
ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP. 57
that he had either been enticed away by the women, or that the natives had detained him, in the hopes of receiving a ransom for his release, and that he would either return in one of the canoes to the ship, or be given up on a reward being offered. Under these impres- sions, he ordered the boats to return to the ship. Many of the officers were of the opinion that he had been murdered; yet it was scarcely to be believed that they should have been enabled to overcome with- out noise a well-armed man, and one who had been cautioned against their treachery. After they had pushed off some distance, it was thought that a white man was seen on the beach; but on returning, it proved that they were mistaken.
On the morning of the 8th, it became evident that something had taken place, for not a canoe came alongside before breakfast, which induced a general belief that Anderson had met with an untimely end at the hands of the natives. The people of the adjoining town of Eta, however, so far as they could be understood from their -ges- tures and language, seemed to intimate that the man was on shore alive. Not a canoe, however, was recognised as belonging to the town of Utiroa. A message was (notwithstanding the two towns were at war) sent on shore, in hopes it would induce these savages to restore Anderson, telling them that if the man was given back, a large present of tobacco would be paid for him. This was shown them, and every endeavour was made to ascertain his fate. On look- ing around among the natives, attention was called to one who was believed to belong to Utiroa. The eagerness with which this man was regarded by all, caused him so much alarm, that he at once sought flight in his canoe; but he could not get his sail arranged, and was soon overtaken by one of the ship’s boats. The countenance of the native, on being overtaken, was one of great fear. On finding he could not escape, it immediately changed to one the most amiable and friendly. He began by saying that the boat was good, the ship was good and large, and all that was in her was good. Mr. Hale ex- plained to him what was required of him. It was difficult to ascertain that he understood these things at the time, for the native was inclined to assent to every thing; but Mr. Hale has since had reason to be satisfied from the words he used that the object in view, of obtaining Anderson, was well understood.
The whole of the day was occupied in surveying, and connecting the work with that of the tender, which vessel, with the boats, had returned in the morning. The surveying boats, while engaged, were satisfied that the natives were disposed to be hostile.
Their visiters during the day were all from the other parts of the
VOL. V. 8
58 ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.
island, and were unacquainted with the accident that had happened ; but on being informed of it, they made every endeavour to explain that they did not belong to the guilty town. There are fourteen towns on the island, as follows, beginning at the north, viz. :
TOWNS. CHIEFS, Muribama or Tenaiay, . . . . F ° ° Tipera. Te-niaroku, . . . . . . . 0 ¢ Peia. Terikiai, . . ° ° . . . . . . Tarentoa. Eta, 0 ° - ° . . . ° c “ ‘Toarimaroa, Utiroa, 9 ° 5 . 5 ° ° ¢ : Tama and Moleia. Tauma, 5 : 0 . . ° 6 : Tebakoa, Kabura, O 6 . 0 ° : 3 f . 0 Tepikau. Apamarikoro, . 5 . . ° . . 3 . Payau. Parepatu, . . n . . . . . . . Tentaki. Tewai, 6 0 0 ° . . ° 0 ° ; Aiiri, Tauyaia, . ¢ 4 . : . ° : . Tauraura. Puari, a . 0 . ° 5 : 6 . Tapare. Nukutoru, . , 6 . C 0 - 5 . ; Pautua. Taku, r é , 7 A C . : 0 6 Putiutoa.
Basing the calculation for the population of these towns on that of Utiroa, which is estimated at from one thousand to one thousand two hundred, it would give this small strip of land as great, if not a greater number of inhabitants per square mile, than any portion of the globe that relies upon its own resources for subsistence.
The four northern towns are apparently united together, and hostile to the southern ones. Between Eta and Utiroa there is a considerable space uninhabited, which appears to form a line of separation between their territories.
Captain Hudson made up his mind that there could be little doubt, after so much time had elapsed without intelligence, and taking into view the conduct of the Utiroans, that Anderson had been treache- rously murdered. He therefore believed it to be a paramount duty to punish them, not only for this perfidious act, but to secure their good conduct hereafter, in case of other vessels touching at this island.
In consequence of this determination, the boats were prepared for landing, and Mr. Knox was ordered to anchor the tender in a position near the shore opposite the town, in order to protect them.
The boat expedition, consisting of Lieutenants Emmons, Perry, and De Haven, Passed Midshipmen Davis and Harrison, and Mr. Free- man, the sailmaker, was put under charge of Mr. Walker, the first- lieutenant of the ship, and particular instructions given to him relative to his conduct. These will be found in Appendix IJ. Messrs. Peale, Hale, and Agate, accompanied the expedition.
The expedition consisted of seven boats; in them were embarked
ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP. 59
about eighty officers and men. About nine o’clock they approached the town. The first object that attracted attention was a column of smoke arising from the small building that stood on piles in front of the town before spoken of. On arriving near the beach, the three divisions formed in a line abreast, according to the directions. Lieu- tenant Walker, with Mr. Hale, (who acted as interpreter,) now showed the white flag, and pulled in toward the beach in front, in order to hold a parley, make further inquiries relative to Anderson, and endeavour to have him given up, if alive. There were about five hundred natives, well armed, on the beach, and others were constantly coming in from all sides: they shouted and shook their weapons with threatening gestures. Many of them, however, seemed undecided how to act; and their whole appearance, though formidable enough, was yet quite ludicrous in the eyes of the men, equipped as the savages were in their cumbrous coats of mail and fish-skin helmets.
As the boat approached, several of the natives advanced towards it, preceded by a chief fully equipped in armour, and holding a spear in his right hand. Mr. Hale then explained the object they had in view, and showed the large quantity of tobacco which they had brought for aransom. The chief appeared to understand, and pointed to the shore, making signs at the same time for them to come in. The savages who attended the chief had now increased in numbers, and were close to the boat, while the whole body was advancing slowly forwards. Finding that it was not only useless but dangerous to continue the parley, the boat was pulled back into line.
Having thus failed to procure the desired end, the most humane manner of effecting their punishment was conceived to be at once to show them the power of our arms, and sacrifice some of the most prominent among the savages. Lieutenant Walker, therefore, re- quested Mr. Peale, the best shot of the party, to give them a proof of it, and thus prevent the farther effusion of blood. This was accord- ingly done by singling out one of the foremost, and a rocket was also discharged, which took its flight towards the great body of them. The latter missile caused great confusion, and many of them turned to seek the shore, but their terror did not last long, and they made another stand, brandishing their spears and weapons as if bent upon a trial of strength with their opponents; the falling of their chiefs was disregarded, and few seemed to consider the effects produced, except those who were wounded. A general volley soon followed, which caused them all to retreat, some in great haste, while others moved more slowly towards the shore, seeming to be but little impressed
60 ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.
as to the character of our arms. The wounded and dead were all carried off. The boats now pushed in for the beach, and by the time they had reached it, there was not a native of the whole host to be seen.
The three divisions then landed, and the first and second proceeded to fire the mariapa and town, while the third remained to guard the boats. The whole was soon ina blaze, and but a short time sufficed to reduce it to ashes. The natives were still to be seen in small parties, out of reach of the guns, among the cocoa-nut groves. After the work of destruction had been effected, the divisions again returned to the boats. The place now exhibited a very different picture from that it had presented only a short hour before. The blackened sites were all that remained of the former dwellings, the council-house was entirely in ashes, the fences were torn down, and the cocoa-nut trees leafless.
The tide having fallen, three bodies were found, one of whom was the young chief who had been so troublesome and insolent to our gentlemen, and who it was believed had been active in the murder of poor Anderson.
While the party were getting ready to embark, a small party of natives were seen coming towards them from Eta; these were all un- armed, and had cocoa-nut leaves and mats tied round their necks: they had come to assure our party of their good-will, and their joy at the destruction of Utiroa. One old man in particular repeated frequently his assurances, with much laughter and many grimaces. No sooner had they ascertained that the intentions towards them were not hostile, than they began to pillage the burning town.
The number of houses destroyed was supposed to be about three hundred, besides upwards of a dozen large canoes. The loss of life was twelve on the part of the natives: there was no one injured on our side.
From the fact that the natives had left every thing in their dwell- ings, it was clear that they did not anticipate the fate that was to befall them; that they were in hopes of being able to cut off our boats, and perhaps flattered themselves with the prospect of an indiscriminate plunder. This would be in perfect accordance with their customs and constant practice of attempting to cut off all vessels or boats that may visit their islands. Although I have no reason to come to this conclusion from our own knowledge respecting this island, yet from all the accounts of those who have resided some time among like savages, their first idea is always to capture or possess themselves of
ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP. 61
the vessel or any of the boats. We have seen that this is put in prac- tice among the Feejees, and others, who regard all vessels wrecked as sent to them as a gift from the gods.
Very few articles escaped the general conflagration, but of these some were brought off to the ship; among which were two skulls, that had been well polished and cleaned. ‘These were found in the loft of one of their houses, and had evidently been preserved, with great care, as relics.
There are but few domestic animals on this island: a dog, two or three cats, and a few fowls, were all that were seen. Rats are in abundance, as has been shown by the care the natives take to protect their lofts from these very troublesome creatures.
The food of the inhabitants consists principally of fish, cocoa-nuts, the fruit of the pandanus, taro, and api; to these may be added tobacco. They have but few modes of dressing these articles. The fruit of the pandanus they use as food, which was considered by the natives as a great delicacy; it may be said to be exceedingly coarse, so much so, that the fibres of the pandanus are seen in their excre- ment in great quantities; even the husks of the young cocoa-nuts are eaten.
No land-birds were seen but curlews, golden plovers, turnstones, noddies, and white terns; many whales’ bones were strewed over the beach.
This was the first place where they had observed the Tridachna gigas: they were of enormous size; the natives used them for troughs, for many purposes, around their houses.
Necklaces of human teeth were also prized, and brought off for sale.
During the day of the 9th, the thermometer stood in the sun at 159° Fahrenheit.
The character of these islanders is the most savage of any that we met with; their ferocity led to the belief that they were cannibals, although no positive proofs were seen of it. They are under no control whatever, and possess little of the characteristic hospitality usually found in savage nations. It was observed also that their treatment of each other exhibited a great want of feeling, and in many instances, passions and propensities indicative of the lowest state of barbarism. Their young girls were offered to be disposed of, by their fathers and brothers, alongside the ship, openly, and without conceal- ment; and to drive a bargain for them, was one of the principal objects of their visits to the ship.
Among their weapons, they have a short spear, which is armed with F
62 ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.
half a dozen barbs from the tail of the raja or stingray, which is sup- posed to prove mortal, if broken off in the wound. They have also a club, about four feet long, made from the cocoanut-wood, which is pointed at each end; it is used for warding off a spear, to make a thrust, or wielded as a club.
In the use of tobacco, they are truly disgusting, for they eat it and swallow it, with a zest and pleasure indescribable. ‘Their whole mind seems bent upon obtaining this luxury, and consequently it will com- mand their most valuable articles.
They are, to all appearance, a lawless race, and no sort of govern- ment seems to control them; all seize upon whatever property they can, and, as has been before mentioned, the very chiefs themselves were subject to the same treatment that they observed towards our party; the greatest villains and bullies among them seemed to have the most control; while the chiefs had little more than nominal authority, and if they had any privileges, they did not seem to extend beyond their small enclosures.
There is neither wood nor water to be obtained at this island, and no inducement to visit it, except to trade for a few cocoa-nuts and curiosities.
Good whaling-ground exists in the vicinity, and our whalemen are in the habit of cruising in this neighbourhood: those who visit these wretches ought to keep a constant guard against treachery, for their numbers are large, and they are prone to mischief. All intercourse with them should, therefore, be conducted with great caution, espe- cially in ships weakly manned.
It is to be hoped that the punishment inflicted on Utiroa for the murder of Anderson will be long remembered, and prove a salutary lesson to the numerous and thickly-peopled towns of Taputeouea, or Drummond’s Island.
On the same evening, (the 9th,) they weighed anchor, and on the next day made Bishop’s or Sydenham Island, which they surveyed the following day.
Off the north point of Bishop’s Island, there is a shoal extending one and a half miles to the northward and westward, the water on which is discoloured, and where the Peacock found nine fathoms. The native name for Bishop’s or Sydenham Island, is Nanouti; it lies in latitude 00° 36’ S., and longitude 174° 24’ E.; it is of coral formation, and a mere ledge of land, like Drummond’s Island, with a lagoon, reef, and bank, on its lee or southwest side. The survey made it nineteen miles long, trending northwest and southeast, and its width, including lagoon and reef, eight and a half miles. On the southwest and northwest
ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP. 63
portions of it, there is a coral bank, from one to one and a half miles beyond the reef, on which there is ten fathoms water. At the distance of four miles from the northwest end of the island, they found soundings in two hundred and sixty-five fathoms.
The island is partially covered with cocoa-nut, pandanus, and other trees; and the islets of which it is formed are nearly continuous, con- nected by the usual coral reef. They had no communication with the natives of Nanouti. A daily intercourse is kept up between it and the Drummond Islanders. It was thought there was no difference in their characters. The distance between them is but fifteen miles.
From the north point of this island, there was a small island in sight, which was at first supposed to be Duperrey’s Isle du Nord; but if it be, instead of being located to the northward, as he has placed it, it bears nearly south of the north extreme of Nanouti. They found, on pro- ceeding towards it, that it was a hummock, connected by a reef with Nanouti; but no Sable Island could be seen. The tender passed round the opposite side of Nanouti, and did not see any island; and the officers of both vessels are fully convinced that no Sable Island exists.
On the night of the 10th, they had much thunder and lightning, with a heavy swell from the northeast.
At daylight on the 11th, they made Henderville Island, called by the natives Nanouki. The weather was too unfavourable to proceed with the survey. Simpson or Harbottle, Hopper, and Woodle Islands, were in sight. The weather continued stormy, with heavy thunder and lightning.
On the 12th, they succeeded in surveying Henderville Island, and connected it with Woodle Island. Towards night they again had stormy weather, with the wind from the eastward. Henderville Island was determined to be in latitude 00° 11’ N., and longitude 173° 39’ 20” E. This island is six and a half miles long, east and west, and five and a half miles wide at the east end, diminishing to two miles at the west end: it is of coral formation. There are two towns on the west end, and several on the east and southeast parts, and it is thickly inhabited. The natives who came on board said that the two ends of the island were at war with each other. They are very much the same in appearance as the natives of Drummond’s Island; were naked, and spoke the same dialect. These natives knew of the islands in their immediate vicinity, as well as the direction of Taputeouea, or Drum- mond’s Island, and gave them the name of being inhabited by a savage and hostile people. This island affords neither wood, water, nor refreshments : from appearances, its inhabitants must be at times much stinted for food. They brought off nothing except a few cocoa-nuts;
64 ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.
but the object of their errand was not to be misunderstood, for in each canoe there was a woman, which I think does not speak much in the praise of the whalers or other ships that frequent this cruising-ground. While on board, one of the natives gave them an exhibition of a dance, which was different from those before seen, inasmuch as it consisted of a variety of motions and moving from one place to another, in quick steps, and in throwing about the arms, with many contortions of the body, and vehement gesticulations. The dance was accompanied with a kind of song or chaunt, consisting of the monotonous repetition of words, uttered in a short, quick, and distinct tone; each dance was finished with an outstretched hand, and an earnest cry of tebake.
It was next determined to survey Hall’s Island, called by the natives Maiana, as the fair wind and the night would enable Captain Hudson to accomplish it and return to complete that of Woodle Island, or Kuria. Maiana is of coral formation; the northeast and southeast parts are continuous land, whilst to the southwest and northwest it consists of a reef and bank, in some places awash, with a sand-spit in its lagoon. The western sides of the island are therefore very dangerous, and should be approached with caution, as the sea seldom breaks on them, and the discolouration of the water is not at all times to be observed. The natives of this island have the same appearance as those already spoken of, and use the same dialect: only one canoe came off, and held a short communication with the ship. The island appears to be thickly inhabited, but its natives have had little inter- course with the whites. It affords neither refreshments, wood, nor water. The survey makes this island nine miles long, in a northeast and southwest direction, and six miles in width, in a southeast and northwest direction: it is situated in latitude 00° 56’ 45” N., and longitude 173° 04’ 15” E. On its west side, on some of the banks, there is anchorage in from ten to fifteen fathoms of water.
On the morning of the 15th, they made the island of Apamama, the Hopper Island of Duperrey, and the Simpson’s Island of the charts of Arrowsmith. It is about five feet above the surface of the ocean; is ten miles long, northwest and southeast, and five miles in width, north and south. The land is continuous on the north and east sides, except- ing two small strips of bare reef. ‘There is anchorage on the west side in an opening between the reef and the northwest point of the island, which is about two miles wide. The soundings vary from two to five fathoms: across it, in some places, the bottom is broken coral; in others, it is coral sand. The entrance to the lagoon, although feasible, should not be attempted through this passage; but there is a good passage into it on the southeast side of the island, which is a mile
ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP. 65
wide. A survey was made of this island, and its anchorages exa- mined. The boats when ashore communicated with the natives, who resemble those of the adjacent islands. It has a large population, but yields little more than will supply their wants. A small quantity of fresh water may be had by digging on the beaches: wood and re- freshments are not procurable for shipping.
This island is situated in latitude 00° 27’ 21” N., and longitude 173° 57’ 30” E.: it has heretofore been represented as two islands on the charts, called on one Simpson’s, and the other Hopper and Har- bottle ; but there is only one, joined by the same reef.
They next returned to Kuria or Woodle’s Island.
On the 16th, while engaged in the survey, some canoes came off to the ship, when the natives came on board without hesitation,— an evidence of their having had communication with ships, and their confidence of good treatment. It was soon reported, that a white man was coming off; and, as in all such cases, he was looked for and watched with great interest, and various surmises were made relative to his origin and history. They were not long left in doubt, for before he reached the deck, his voice be- spoke him an Irishman. He was dressed ina pair of duck trousers and red flannel shirt, and announced himself as “John Kirby, a deserter from the English whale-ship Admiral Cockburn.” He said he had been on the island for three years; that he was living with the daughter of the principal chief; and solicited a passage to some civilized place.
The principal chief of the island, with his daughter, whom Kirby had for a wife, came on board with him. They both seemed deeply affected, when they learned that he had received permission to remain on board, and was about to leave them; and both endeavoured to dis- suade him from going.
His wife showed much concern, and wished to accompany him: the old chief, her father, endeavoured to persuade him to take her. Find- ing she could not prevail, she requested as a parting gift, an old jack- knife, the only property he had left to give. Several presents were made to her by the officers and men, which reconciled her somewhat to her lot. The natives all left the ship much gratified, excepting Kirby’s wife, who continued to be somewhat downhearted.
Kirby proved an intelligent man: he understood the language, and was well acquainted with the character, manners, and customs of the islanders, among whom he had lived from the 11th of February, 1838, to the 15th of April, 1841. His presence in the ship afforded Captain Hudson an opportunity, not only of communicating with the natives
VOL. V. F2 9
66 ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.
more freely, but of obtaining much interesting information relative to this group.
Kuria or Woodle’s Island has four towns on it which Kirby estimates to contain between four and five thousand inhabitants. Its geographi- cal position is in latitude 0° 14’ 30” N., longitude 173° 27’ E.: its greatest length is five miles, northwest and southeast, and its greatest width, which is at the southeast end, is two and a half miles. The remainder is very narrow, and almost divided towards the centre. The northwest portion has two small lagoons, two or three hundred yards from the beach; the water in them is not so salt as the ocean. In one of them, the bottom consists of red mud on one side, while it is a white clay on the other. They are used as fish-ponds by the chiefs. There is a reef extending to the northwest nearly three miles.
The island is but partially clothed with trees, consisting of cocoa- nut, pandanus, and a few stunted bread-fruit. It has no outer reef, and may be approached very closely. It affords neither wood, water, nor refreshments. ‘The natives who visited the ship brought off very little for trade: fish-hooks and lines, small mats, cocoa-nut syrup, and a few cocoa-nuts, composed their whole stock.
The females that accompanied the canoes wore the maro, and were thought to be better-looking than the others of the group; but their whole manner was in keeping with the purposes for which their fathers and brothers had brought them off.
No war implements were seen; the men, who were naked, resem- bled the others of the group, except that they did not appear so much disfigured by scars.
Kirby states, that on the first night of his landing, they stripped him of every thing but an old pair of trousers, after which he was conducted to a great conclave of natives, assembled around a large fire, which he then believed was intended to roast him. He had fortu- nately gone on shore in the highest chief’s canoe, and placed himself under his protection, as well as he knew how. After some considera- ble talk, instead of being roasted, he was furnished with a wife, and taken to reside with his friend, the principal chief, who, with the rest of the natives, ever after treated him kindly. After a few months’ residence in the family of the chief, he gave his own daughter to Kirby for a wife. The result of this was much jealousy and envy between his first wife, of common origin, and his last, of high rank, until the former was ousted and sent back to her parents, leaving the chief’s daughter in quiet possession of the house.
During Kirby’s residence on the island, several English, and one American whaler, had been off the island, on which occasions he had
ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP. 67
been employed as pilot and interpreter. The natives were constantly asking him, after their departure, why he “did not fool the vessels and run them on shore, that they might plunder them.” One of the above vessels left two pigs, two goats, and a pair of Muscovy ducks; but no sooner had the vessel left, than they killed them all, from some superstitious fears, and threw them into the sea, notwithstanding all Kirby’s remonstrances and entreaties to have them spared, and allow him to eat them.
Kirby says that the natives, though not professed cannibals, some- times eat human flesh; but their food is generally fish. They do not eat fowls, and will not raise pigs, on account of their filth. Their treacle is extracted from the spathes of the cocoa-nut trees, an opera- tion which, if frequently repeated, destroys the tree. They are very fond of cock-fighting.
The conduct of foreigners who visit these islands is sometimes of a most outrageous character. Instances of this kind are daily occur- ring, a number of which came to my knowledge; and the following occurrence it seems to me is of a character that ought to be made public, in order to bring such conduct, and the persons who are guilty of it, to tne notice of their own nation.
NATIVE GIRL OF PERU ISLAND.
Some four or five months before the Peacock’s visit, Kirby states that one Leasonby, master of the whale-ship Offley, of London, and whose mate was an American, named Lake, landed six young girls on this island, whom he had obtained at Peru, or Francis Island. After
68 ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.
having kept them on board several days, he brought them here to save himself the trouble of beating his vessel up to the island to which they belonged.
These young girls were extremely good-looking, and are now slaves to the chief of this island, and made to labour and satisfy his lusts. They were landed on Kuria, in despite of their entreaties and tears. These people are in the habit of killing all strangers from islands not connected with their immediate group; but the lives of these girls were spared, and they were retained in bondage. ‘Two of them were brought off to the ship, who entreated most earnestly to be kept on board, and to be carried to their home. The engraving on the pre- ceding page is made from Mr. Agate’s drawing of one of them.
The published charts of these islands were found so inaccurate, as to be a cause of danger rather than of safety; for in them the islands are multiplied, and every hummock or detached islet on the same reef is represented as separate, and a name assigned it. Thus a confusion exists, that it is almost impossible to unravel. How so many errors could be committed, can only be accounted for by the fact that those who had the publication of the charts formerly were generally ignorant, and did not take that care to sift and examine the information that was essential to accuracy.
Several islands are laid down here on the different charts, but those only really exist which are named Tarawa, or Knox Island; Apia, or Charlotte Island; and Maraki, or Matthew’s Island.
Tarawa, or Knox Island, is in length twenty miles, trending north- west and southeast. The land is continuous and wooded, with the exception of four gaps, where the reef is bare. The south side is twelve miles long, and trends nearly east and west. On this part, near the western end, are three hummocks (which appear like islands in the distance), and several small sand-banks, which are connected by the same reef. This island has its lagoon, but it has the appearance of an extensive bay, in consequence of the reef on the west side being a sunken one, on which is found five fathoms of water.
This island is partially wooded, having several groves of cocoa-nut trees on it, and a dense undergrowth. Several towns were seen on it, and it appeared to be thickly inhabited. It affords no supplies for ves- sels. Three canoes came off to the ship, two of which kept at a respectful distance, while the third approached with great caution. Some few pieces of iron hoops enticed the natives on board, but they brought nothing for trade, except half a dozen cocoa-nuts. They stated that ‘they had never seen a vessel before. This may be true, but appeared somewhat incredible, when they are so near other islands
ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP, 69
which have had constant intercourse with shipping. They appeared entirely ignorant of the use of tobacco, which it will be recollected the other natives coveted so much; and what seemed to confirm the belief in the truth of their assertion of the visits of ships, was the absence of females in the canoes, which had been with the natives of the other islands so prominent an article of barter.
They seemed delighted with the pieces of old iron, and regarded junk-bottles with admiration. ‘They are entirely the same in appear- ance, and in character and customs, with the rest; they go naked, and speak the same dialect.
Tarawa lies in latitude 1° 29’ N., and longitude 173° 05’ E., and is of coral formation.
Until the 24th, they were engaged in the survey of Apia, or Char- lotte Island. This consists of strings of coral islets, situated within a reef, which is six and seven feet above the water. The reef has a bluff front, and is much worn by the sea. There is no coral sand. Apia was found to be in latitude 1° 52’ N., and 173° 02’ E. It is a lagoon island. Its length in the direction of northeast and southwest is sixteen miles, and its average breadth five. On the east side of the island the land is covered with cocoa-nut and pandanus groves, with some undergrowth. The northwest and west side is a continuous reef, four or five feet above the water’s edge, on which are many islets. About the centre of the reef, on the southwest side, is a ship’s channel into the lagoon, which is half a mile wide. Near its entrance is a small islet, which stands alone, and is a good mark for the entrance. There is no island in the lagoon, as shown on the French charts of Duperrey.
This island would appear to be thickly inhabited, from the number of towns on it. Several canoes came off to the ship, which were similar in construction to the others we had seen. Their stock of articles for trade was, as usual, scanty. There was but one woman seen, and she proved as ugly as those previously met with had been pleasing in their looks. They speak the same dialect, and are the same people, although their intercourse seems to have been very much con- fined to themselves. At the islet near the entrance to the lagoon, about sixty gallons of water were obtained from the native well, but it was flat and brackish. No other supplies can be procured at this island.
When the boats landed at the islet, the natives were in great alarm, and fled; but, reassured by the calls of Kirby, they returned, and their fears were effectually quieted by a few presents.
It was ascertained that their knowledge of other islands only ex- tended to Tarawa, or Knox’s Island, and two others. To one of these
70 ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP,
they pointed in a direction west of north, and called it Maraki,— Matthew’s Island; and the other Taritari and Makin, which they said were two days’ sail, and which was believed to be Pitt’s Island.
In the centre of the little village was one of the sacred stones, which was described by Kirby as an object of worship. It consisted of a flat slab of coral rock, about three feet high and two wide, set up on end and dressed with a thick wreath of cocoanut-leaves. It was placed in the centre of a circular platform of sand and pebbles, about nine feet in diameter, raised five or six inches above the soil, and surrounded by a ring of stones. At the foot of the coral slab were several large cocoa- nuts, placed there as an offering to the divinity, whom the natives styled Tabu-eriki. ‘The wood-cut at the end of the next chapter is a drawing of one. The priest, a young man, with a mild and intelligent countenance, remained constantly near the stone, never quitting the platform for a moment. The houses were built like those of Drum- mond’s Island, but the scuttles into the lofts were much larger, occa- sionally occupying half the dividing floor. In some of the houses there were two or three floors or stages, the second about two feet above the first.
In the survey of this island the tender got aground inside the lagoon. The moment that it was discovered by the natives that the vessel was on shore, they began to flock around her, and were only kept off by being fired at. Lieutenant Emmons did not join her with the boats till after dark, when he found her situation such as to require great vigi- lance on the part of the officers and men to preserve her. She had taken the coral reef at high water, and the tide was rapidly falling, leaving her on her bilge, and rendering her guns of no use for protec- tion. The natives were making signals by burning fires, blowing war- conchs, and evincing every disposition to attack her.
Captain Hudson, who observed the situation of the tender at sunset, determined to keep the Peacock close to the island throughout the night, to be near at hand to despatch boats in case of signal being made that they required more aid, should the natives show a disposi- tion to make an attack, and overpower the force that had already gone to the tender’s assistance. The Peacock was hove-to, with a moderate breeze blowing, and from the fires seen during the night they believed themselves close to the position they had taken at sunset. At daylight, while lying-to, they drifted on a coral sand-bank, where the ship was aground for a few minutes only. Their surprise was great when they found that it was Tarawa or Knox’s Island, on which they were ashore, on its northwest side, and that they had drifted fully twelve miles by current to the southward during the night. On board of the
ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP, val
tender every preparation was made to receive the savages, as it was anticipated that the attack would be made at early daylight. They were not mistaken in this, for at that time the natives were seen in great numbers, but just then fortunately the tender floated. ‘The natives continued, however, to approach boldly until within musket-shot, when they were motioned to keep off, which they disregarded. ‘The head- most canoe having struck its sail for the purpose of closing alongside, Lieutenant Emmons fired his rifle, aiming so that the ball should pass close by the head of the steersman: this alarmed him so much that he immediately jumped overboard, and was followed by all the rest. The remaining canoes now kept off; but continued to follow the tender until she left the ]agoon, which she did by the passage through which she had entered. When the natives found that the prize had escaped them, they became outrageous, making use of many violent gesticula- tions of the disappointment they had experienced.
The next island that claimed their attention was Maraki, or Mat- thew’s Island. It is much smaller than the two last, and situated in latitude 2° 00’ N., and longitude 173° 25’ 30” E. It is a lagoon island, without entrances, and of coral formation. It is but five miles long, north-by-east and south-by-west, and two and a half wide at its base, being of triangular shape.
It appears to be densely peopled, for many villages were seen, and after dark a large number of fires were burning.
A canoe ventured alongside, in which was one of the natives, of an herculean frame, and calling himself a chief. When asked how many people they had on the island, he replied, as many as were on board the ship. As all hands were on deck, it is supposed that his simile was equivalent to a multitude.
The persons in this canoe were exceedingly desirous of getting old iron hoops: they did not remain a long time on board, and seemed to be uneasy. After they had obtained these small presents, they quietly abandoned the ship, and on getting into their canoes, soon plied the paddles in such a manner as showed that they were quite anxious to get out of reach, seemingly congratulating themselves upon their mira- culous escape. Their dialect and customs were the same as those of the rest of the group.
On the 27th, the Peacock left Matthew’s Island to look for Pitt’s Island, which they made on the 28th, at 9 a. m. On the 29th, the weather permitted the survey to be made.
There are two islands known under this name: the largest is called by the natives Taritari, and the smallest, Makin. The latitude of the southern point of Taritari is 3° 08’ N., longitude 172° 48’ E. This
72 ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.
island is of the figure of a triangle, with its apex to the south, and its sides are about fourteen miles in length. The southeast side is a con- tinuous grove of cocoa-nut and pandanus, with some undergrowth; on the other two sides is a reef, which is awash, excepting the northwest point, in which there is a small inlet.
Makin is of much smaller dimensions, being but six miles long: it varies in width from half a mile to a mile. Its northern point lies in latitude 3° 20' 43” N., and longitude 172° 57’ E. This small island is the seat of government, and the natives now unite both names under the one of Makin.
It was soon evident that the island was thickly inhabited; for when the ship reached the lee side, in the afternoon, about twenty canoes came off, containing from five to ten natives in each, and in one of them was a white man, who was clothed in mats. The ship was im- mediately hove-to to take him on board, and he gave his name as Robert Wood (alias Grey), a Scotchman by birth, who was left by his own wish on the island, seven years before, by the English whaling brig Janie, of London, sailing from Sydney. He was under so great excitement as to render his utterance quite unintelligible at times, and some amusing scenes took place in consequence. On his reaching the deck, he first inquired if he would be permitted to go on shore again; and then, who was king of England; if there was peace with America; for he had thought there must be a war. He had seen no white men since he landed, and said that he had become old and grayheaded. To prove the latter assertion he pulled off his apology for a hat, and displayed a most luxuriant growth of jet-black hair.
He had not been on board long before he asked for a passage to some civilized land; and when he was informed that his wishes would be gratified, he seemed for a time beside himself from excess of joy. His feelings were evinced in his endeavours to interpret the questions to the natives; he almost invariably repeated to them what was said to him in English, in the same language; and gave back their answers or expressions in the island dialect. This had a droll effect, and he had frequently to be reminded that he was an interpreter.
Wood says, that the natives had always treated him kindly; and for the first few months after his arrival among them, they carried him about on their shoulders (he was the first white man that many of them had ever seen), and almost deified him. They have no wars, and very few arms, and seldom quarrel, except about their women. The punishment of death is inflicted on those who infringe the seraglio of the chiefs.
In the short intercourse the Peacock had with the natives of this
|
ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP. 13
island, a great difference was perceptible between them and those of the other islands, as well in respect to their appearance, as in charac- ter. Their features were regular, and by some thought handsome; they had fine teeth, with glossy black hair, flowing in ringlets about their heads; they were also of a lighter colour than the rest of the natives with whom they are grouped; their figures are, for the most part, rotund, and they seem to have an abundance of food to become fat upon. In walking, they appeared like a moving mass of jelly; every laugh set not only their sides in motion, but their whole frame and flesh. On being asked how these people became so fat, Wood replied, they had plenty of food and “toddy” to fatten upon: this last is a syrup, called by the natives “karaca,” made from the sap of the young cocoa-nut trees: of this they drink immoderately. They wear mustaches and whiskers, which are highly prized and carefully nursed among them. They had a good-humoured cast of countenance, and seemed peaceable and full of kindness. No scars were seen on their bodies, neither had they any warlike instruments with them. All the little casualties which so often affected the harmony of the natives before, here produced no sort of disturbance; and each was inclined to render the other assistance in repairing the accidents.
yee SA SEEN LESSEE,
oad
eg aes LO SE Rett SSeS 5 ee
NATIVE OF MAKIN ISLAND.
The men are very handsomely tattooed, of which the above cut will give a correct idea. On their reaching the ship, they appeared VOL. V. G 10
74 ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.
to put the fullest confidence and reliance in the treatment they were to receive, although, according to Wood, they had seen but one vessel during his residence on the island, and consequently it could not be from the habit of intercourse, but must have been a natural feeling. There was no begging, no attempt to steal, as among all the other natives of the group; but Wood gives them credit for the latter pro- pensity among themselves on shore.
Their canoes are larger and better built than those of the southern islands, and made of different wood; and they are better supplied with masts and paddles, but still of nearly the same shape: the side of the canoe opposite to the out-rigger, was much less curved than the other, resembling more the “ flying proa” of the Ladrone Islands.
Polygamy is common among them; and Wood stated that some of the principal chiefs and landholders have from twenty to fifty wives: the king even exceeded this number; while the poorer class and slaves are doomed to perpetual celibacy. The consequences of this state of society may readily be imagined to produce illicit intercourse among the lower classes.
The women are well treated; never offered for traffic, but on the contrary, are held sacred; and in order to restrain any unlawful in- dulgence on the part of his wives, his majesty has at times had some of them sewed up in mats! Wood represented the women as out- numbering the men, and said they were very handsome. There are five towns on the island, which, according to the authority of Wood, contain about five thousand inhabitants.
The king, whose name was Tekere, came off to the ship. He was a fine-looking man; but his corpulency was great, and appeared to trouble him not a little: it was utterly impossible for him to get up the side of the ship, and he therefore contented himself with being paddled round it. His father, the former king, Jakintebuat, came on board, with several of his sons, all of whom had a strong family likeness. He appeared about sixty years old; and although a little bald, he had no other appearance of age, either in his looks or the firmness of his step.
When the vessels had made sail, in order to leave the island, and it was supposed that all the natives had left the ship, one was found hanging to the man-ropes near the water. Wood, on questioning the native, found that he was a petty chief, who wished to accompany the ship, and had taken this means of doing it, hoping not to be perceived until he was out of sight of his island. He said he was too poor a chief to have any wives, and therefore wished to leave his island, and be landed on some other, where he could obtain some. Captain Hud-
ELLICE’S AND KINGSMILL GROUP. 15
son had a boat lowered at once, by which he was put on board a canoe, that took him to the shore.
Two or three of the officers landed for a short time, but saw nothing except a few fishing huts. Under the eaves of the huts, large shells of the Tridachna gigas were placed to catch water. The entrance into the lagoon has four and a half fathoms of water, and is about one-third of a mile in width.
Mr. Peale found no quadrupeds except rats, which were in great plenty, and running in all directions; of birds there were but few; white terns and noddies were seen in the groves, and a few moths were caught.
Mr. Rich found some tall Pisonias, Tournefortias, two species of Urticeze, a Boerhaavia, and some cocoa-nuts. On the larger island they seem to have a much greater variety of trees, but it was not visited. They have bread-fruit, taro, and yams of two kinds, which are culti- vated in the manner already described.
\ \
| N N
ARMS, ARMOUR, ETC., OF THE KINGSMILL GROUP.
Cree TER LIT:
CONTENTS.
SOURCES OF INFORMATION IN RELATION TO THE KINGSMILL GROUP—ISLANDS OF WHICH IT IS COMPOSED—THEIR GENERAL CHARACTER—THEIR SOIL—TARO-PONDS— TRADITION OF THE ORIGIN OF THE PEOPLE— ANCIENT INTERCOURSE BETWEEN THE ISLANDS—PHYSIOGNOMY AND APPEARANCE OF THE NATIVES—THEIR SOCIAL STATE—GOVERNMENT—DESCENT OF PROPERTY —RELIGIOUS BELIEF—PRIESTS—ORA- CLES—OMENS—PRETENDED COMMUNICATION WITH SPIRITS— BELIEF IN A FUTURE STATE—THEIR ELYSIUM—THEIR MODE OF LIFE—THEIR CHARACTER—THEIR TREAT- MENT OF CHILDREN, OF THE AGED, AND OF WOMEN—THEIR WARS—CANNIBALISM NOT PRACTISED — THEIR WEAPONS— THEIR HOUSES AND CANOES— THEIR MANU- FACTURES— DRESS— ORNAMENTS— THEIR FOOD—THEIR MODE OF COOKING—THEIR AMUSEMENTS—THEIR MARRIAGES— MODE OF GIVING NAMES—PRACTICE OF ABOR- TION — TATTOOING — FUNERAL CEREMONIES — DISEASES—CLIMATE OF THE GROUP— EARTHQUAKES — POPULATION — THEIR INTERCOURSE WITH STRANGERS — THEIR PRONENESS TO SUICIDE— THEIR IDEA OF AN ACCOMPLISHED PERSON — CONTRAST BETWEEN PITT’S AND THE OTHER ISLANDERS—DEPARTURE OF THE PEACOCK AND FLYING-FISH FROM THE KINGSMILL GROUP—THEIR CREWS PUT ON SHORT ALLOW- ANCE — PESCADORES— KORSAKOFF — OBJECTS REMAINING UNACCOMPLISHED — SEP A- RATION OF THE VESSELS— LARGE QUANTITIES OF MOLLUSCH—SHIP MAGNOLIA —
OAHU—ARRIVAL AT AND DEPARTURE FROM HONOLULU—REACH COLUMBIA RIVER. G2
G3}
Y
J.W Paradise ¢
CHAPTER III.
MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE KINGSMILL ISLANDERS.
1841.
In order to obtain all the information possible from Kirby and Wood, Captain Hudson placed them under the immediate control of Mr. Hale, the philologist. This gentleman had thus an opportunity to examine and cross-question them, during the whole time they remained on board the Peacock. To his report to Captain Hudson, I am principally indebted for the following information respecting the entire