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KEVELATIONS

OF

S I B E E I A.

BY A BANISHED LADY.

EDITED BY

COLONEL LACH SZYRMA.

IX TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I.

^I)irt( C-tJitton. ^^i^^^^

LONDON : HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS,

STICCESSOES TO HENEY COLBTJEX, ^ ^ ^ . _..^.--'-*-l

13, GREAT MARLBORCftrGir'g'fREET, . .".^.'j |3'V \

1854. i n?:':'^VClVAT^OM \

M. S. MYERS, PRINTER, 22, TAVISTOCK STREET, COVEST GARDEN.

TO

LORD DUDLEY STUART, M.P.,

kc. ice,

WHOSE GENEUOUS SrHrATHY

WITH THE EXPATRIATED AND OPPBESSKD, HAS ENSHRIXED

HIS NAME INDELIBLY

IN THE MEMOKY OF ALL NATIONS,

itliPSf 'iiuliiiiirs

AKE UUilBLY INSCIUDED BY HIS MOST DEVOTED ADMIKEK,

THE EDITOR.

INTEODUCTION.

The subject of the present work is Siberia ; a region cb'eary by nature, and not only in name synonymous, but actually identical with a vast prison — a locality asso- ciated in our minds with the most poignant of human sufferings. As such, it could only be properly described under the influ- ence of those painful impressions, and while the writer is wi'ithing under the most acute mental agony.

The Authoress of the present " Eeve- lations" was one of the numerous exiles who

VI INTRODUCTION.

are yearly sent to that desolate wildeniess. She was a lady of quality, and had the mis- fortune to incui' the displeasm^e of the Eussian Government, and, in consequence, was included in the class of the nestchastri ludij or " unfortunates," as the exiles, in pity for their hard lot, are called by the people.

With regard to her personal history, we need only say that she is well knoAvii in her own country— a lady by birth and position in society — a wife and mother, torn from her happy home. Her name is Eva Felinska, a name not less noble, than honourably dis- tinguished in Polish literature. Her hus- band's eldest brother, who died some years since, was ranked among the most eminent Polish wi'iters and poets. One of his best and most popular productions was the tragedy, named after "Barbara Ead^iwill," the con- sort of King Sigismimdus Augustus, supposed to have been poisoned by her step-mother Queen Bona.

Eespectable by her family connexions, and a gentlewoman of a cultivated mind, she

INTRODUCTION. VU

could not but suffer the more bitterly, when torn on a sudden from her domestic hearth • and the bosom of civilized society, and carried off to the wilds of Siberia. Here, among a barbarous population, her very habits of refinement, as may be conceived, rendered her position more difficult and unendurable.

As for her crime, it was that which the noblest and most exalted minds of every nation have ever been proud to commit — namely, the crime of patriotism. By her birth, descent, and education, a Pole, she could not but feel deeply for her fallen country and its oppressed people. Possessed of landed property, she established schools in the villages for the education of the serfs, and treated them with more than usual humanity — conduct that made her suspected by the Eussian Government, which suffers no educational establishments, but those that are sanctioned and carried on according to its own regulations. In addition to this, another incident seems to have rendered her

VIU INTEODTJCTION.

obnoxious to tlie Government. In the year 1837, some emissaries from abroad made tbeir appearance in Eussia, for the purpose, as was stated by the agents of the secret police, of bringing about a new insurrection in the Polish provinces. In this conspii'acy a great number of the first families in Lithuania, Volhynia, and other provinces joined, and among them was our authoress ; but in what manner and to what extent she was compromised, is not known, such matters never being di\^ilged in Eussia. To afford temporary shelter to the emissary on his passage, or simply to receive a letter from him, or fr-om those who have been in con- nexion with him ; or the casual knowledge of a vague rumour of what may have occuiTcd in some locality, and not reporting it to the authorities, suffices to implicate any one as an accomplice in plotting against the safety of the State.

The dungeons of the citadel of Warsaw, and those at Wilna and Kiev, were at that period crammed with these unhappy victims

IXTEODLTTIOX. IX

of suspicion. Our Authoress, and other ladies similarly compromised, were sent to a convent of Eussian nuns at Kiov, where they remain- ed many months, undergoing the most rigorous discipline that a fanatical sisterhood, especially if authorized by the Government, can inflict on our sex. After a protracted investigation conducted with a barbarity pecidiar to Rus- sian coui'ts, the whole affair ended, by two

emissaries who had anived from abroad — Konarski and Zawisza, being shot. They were both young men, pupils of the Univer- sity of Warsaw. The rest of the accomplices in the alleged plot were sent into banish- ment to Siberia, and had their estates confis- cated. Their lives were spared, but each was subjected to the penalty of a death long cbawn out, and to a fate from which all human beings shi'ink — death far from home, country, and friends.

Among those thus banished from Kiov, was our Authoress, together A\ith two other gentlewomen-^one an elderly matron ; the other, a yoimg lady in her tenderest age, of

a 3

X INTRODUCTION.

a delicate frame, impaired by pining in prison, but, as described in this work, of a most amiable disposition, capable of the most gene- rous devotedness.

These thi^ee gentlewomen had to make a most tedious and wearisome journey, dur- ing the inclemency of a Eussian winter, to Siberia. On arriving at Tobolsk, they met a number of other exiles, their acquaintances and former neighbours, who had preceded them thither — indeed a whole colony of their coimtrymen, who had been exiled at differ- ent periods. The Emperor Nicholas appears, in this instance, to have proved faithful to the threat pronounced by him after the close of the Polish war of 1831, that he would make a Siberia of Poland, and a Poland of Siberia.

Prom Tobolsk, the exiles were distributed in accordance with the supposed culpability of each, among the different penal settlements in Siberia. The guiltof our Authoress appears to have beengreat in the eyes of the authori- ties, as she was sentenced to be sent to Bere_

INTRODUCTION. XI

zov, a town in the farthest north ; while the two other ladies, companions of her journey were located in a much milder climate in the south. This arrangement, however, did not meet the views of the youngest lady, who had become exceedingly attached to her friend ; and, in order not to be separated from her, she besought the authorities to send her to Berezov ; with which request, though not without great reluctance, they eventually complied.

It is after her arrival at Berezov, that the remarks of the Authoress acquire an increas- ing degree of interest. While sojourning there for a period of more than two years, when she was removed to another settlement, nothing escaped her penetrating eye in her intercourse with the inhabitants, whether Russian or native. She describes their man- ner of living, their hunting and fishing expe- ditions, and their amusements at home ; their religious rites, festivals, popular tradi- tions, and prejudices ; their articles of export and import ; their trade, and the mode of

Xll INTRODUCTION.

carrying it on by barter ; the animals of the forest, and the birds of the air ; the scanty vegetables of the soil, and its minerals ; the temperatiu-e, and the phenomena of the sky ; in a manner at once pleasant and instrnctive. There is throughont a certain freshness about her observations and remarks ; and the pic- ture she draws of the customs, opinions, and habits of savage life, as contrasted with those of our civilized communities, will be perused with peculiar interest.

Never does she allow a single murmui' to escape her lips against the author of her ba- nishment. Of the Emperor Nicholas, not a syllable is said ; his name occui's but once in the book, and then is mentioned indirectly, in connection vnth his son Alexander, the heir apparent. Even on that occasion, there is no term used either of eulogy or disparagement. Neither good nor bad is allowed to be said of the reigning family of Eussia. This she knew, and she strictly adhered to the esta- blished rule. Of the Government measures, she found many that were wisely conceived.

INTRODUCTION. XUl

tending to ameliorate the condition of the people ; but she could not at, the same time, help deploring that they should be completely- nullified, and prevented from producing any of their intended results, by the incapacity of the Eussian officials, and especially those of the inferior grade. Some of these, whose flagrant delinquencies came under her notice, she does not scruple to denounce. "With regard to the higher functionaries, she gives them great credit for intelligence and humanity. In so far, the book may be considered per- fectly impartial, containing nothing to excite the susceptibilities even of the admu-ers of the Eussian Government — if any can be found in tliis coimtry. The Polish original issued from the press under the rigorous domination of the imperial censorship, with- out the sanction of Avhich it could not have been printed ; and it has since — which is rare in Eussia — passed thi'ough two editions. It is altogether a useful publication, both for the native and foreign reader ; and certainly it is creditable to the censorsliip in Eussia,

XIV INTRODUCTION.

that permission was given for its appearance. In this respect, it contrasts most favourably with the censorship exercised over the press by other continental governments, being not only indulgent, but, to a certain extent, liberal; and if the same spirit is followed up, it will not be without its advantages.

Still the Polish original cannot be said to bear no marks of the pen of the censor. All compositions wiitten under constraint are worded with caution and reservation, and necessarily contain many phrases capable of a double meaning. These can scarcely be perceived, and never be ftdly comprehended, by foreign readers, as by the natives, who, initiated in the history of events, can, as is commonly said, " read many things between the lines." Moreover, in some cases, many matters have been but lightly touched upon by the Authoress, and may not be clear, while others are so novel as to appear scarcely credible.

In illustration, therefore, of the text, as well as the matter contained in it, the Editor

INTRODUCTION. XV

has thought fit to subjoin some annotations, for which (as they have not met the eye of the censorship, and might perhaps offend the Eussian Government) he alone, and not the Authoress, ought to be held responsible. The Authoress is a perfect stranger to the Editor. All his knowledge of her is derived solely from her work, and he has never had any communication with her whatever. All he has been able to leam is that she is still living, and that, after her return from exile, she published other productions of her pen ; this being her first work. "We should indeed be extremely grieved, if our publication of her book in England should in any way interfere with her peace and comfort, and should not rather be an encoiu-agement to her to resume her pen, for the benefit of her country and the information of other nations.

The Polish original, from which these volumes have been translated, comprises a narrative of events that took place between the years 1839 and 1841 ; but, owing to the delay caused by the long exile of the writer,

XVI INTRODUCTION.

it has but recently left the press. Still. delay does not in the least detract from either the importance or novelty of the work. Siberia is not a country of progress ; trans- formation and changes are not effected there with the same rapidity as they are m Western Europe ; but for ages everything is sta- tionary. Generation after generation may pass away, but the opinions, habits, and usages of the people continue immutable.

Desolate and dismal, unexplored and unex- plorable, as Siberia may be, it is not, as will be seen by this work, without its peculiar lineaments of sublimity, amidst all its dreari- ness and solitudes ; and a day will come when its ice-bound territories will be opened to civilization, and its forests vanish before the advances of fi-eedom. We cannot conclude better than by quoting Sydney Yendys' lines on the Polar regions :

" The earth, is rock — the heaven The dome of a greater palace of ice, Eliss-built. Dull light distils through frozen skies ickened and gross. Cold Fancy droops her wings,

INTRODUCTION. XVU

And cannot range. In winding-sheets of snow

Lies every thought of any pleasing thing.

I have forgotten the green earth ; my soul

Deflowered, and lost to every summer hope,

Sad sitteth on an iceberg at the Pole ;

My heart assumes the landscape of mine eyes.

Moveless and white, chill blanched with hoarest rime.

The sun himself is heavy, and lacks cheer ;

Or on the eastern hill, or western slope.

The world without seems far and long ago."

CONTENTS

OP

THE FIRST VOLUME.

CHAPTER I.

Journey from Kiov to Tobolsk — Departure — Prostration — Government instructions — Tula — Veteran soldier — Iron-works — Russian currency — Murom Forest — Nijny-Novgorod — Its fair. . . .1

CHAPTER II.

Russian fare— Companions in exile — Arrival at Kazan — Discomforts at lodgings — Visit from the Police Director — Visit from a Russian matron — Recollec- tions of Easter-day— Invitation from the landlady- Obstacles at departure — Aspect of the city — Variety of races — Costumes — A Tartar chief and his wife . . . . . . 19

XX CONTENTS.

CHAPTER III.

Perm — New villages — Ural Mountains — Ekatarinburg — A roguish, innkeeper — Post-carts — Defects of female education — Tumen — A national relic — Tobolsk — Com- patriots in exile — Devotedness of a young lady — De- parture — Inundation — Bronikov — Counter-order to return. . . . . .45

CHAPTER IV.

Sojourn at Tobolsk — Lower and Upper Town — Edifices — Interview with an exiled Colonel — Walks on the Irtish — Tobola — Public garden — Yisit from the exile — Advance of spring — Breaking of ice on the Irtish — Argali deer . . . . .68

CHAPTER V.

Preparations for departure — Spring — The Upper Town — Ceyzik's house — Prince Gortchakoff — His removal to Omsk — Roman Catholic missions — A real solitude — Embarkation — Cabin — Farewells. . .82

CHAPTER YI.

Journey to Berezov — Mournful train of thoughts — Kutchum Khan and Yermak— Steward — Passengers — Samovar — Boating — Perilous adventure — Gale of wind — Demiansk — Increase of cold — Expanse of the desert — Grandeur of primitive nature. . 98

CONTENTS. XXI

CHAPTEH VII.

Confluence of the Irtish and the Oby — Lowland and upland plain — The Tartar and the Ostiak boundary — Storm — Wild Scenery — Stones of various colours in rivers — Kondisk Monastery — Soswa — Distant view of Berezov — Disembarkation — Aspect of the town ..... 117

CHAPTER VIII.

The bay — Lodgings — "Want of market — Sour ducks — Nights with daylight — Breakfast on water — New Lodgings — Supper — Arrangement of the rooms — Superfluous gifts — The hostess — Sudden summer heat ..... 131

CHAPTER IX.

Kapidity of vegetation — Preparations for the fisheries in the Oby GuK — Performance of a religious rite — A family farewell — A touching scene — Site of Berezov — Streets — Structure of the houses — Churches — ^Burial places — Menzikov's corpse — His grave — Graves of other exiles — Classification of the inhabitants — Pro- visions— A Siberian school. . . .142

CHAPTER X.

Musquitos — Visits — Bashfulness of a hostess — A merchant widow's house — Objects of luxury and

XXll CONTENTS.

European taste — Not at home — Summer heat- Courtesy of the Berezovian maids— Flight — Arrival

of Madame X A Berezovian Bloomer— A Polish

maid-servant. . . . . .157

CHAPTER XI.

Inland Navigation— The Berezovian districts-Population — Scantiness of cultivation— Manners and customs of the inhabitants— Berezovian women — origin of the Berezovian Cossacks — Causes of their degeneration — Their military services and emoluments — Their mercantile spirit and traffic with the natives . 1 73

CHAPTER XII.

My child— Visits of guests— The Nizegorodtyow family — Parental authority — Ladies' dresses — Costumes peculiar to each class — Evils arising from change of class . . . . .186

CHAPTER XIII.

Failing health — A Siberian merchant — Attempts at agriculture — Hostility to improvement — System of trade — Articles of barter — Character of the natives — The culinary art — Young bride's first dinner party —

CONTENTS. XXUl

Female education — Facility of marriage — Landed Property— Prospects of Berezov . .196

CHAPTER XIV.

St. Peter's festival — "Waygulka pic-nics — Sudden cold — Traces of a road — Government magazines — An Ostiak encampment — Description of an Ostiak yourta — SmeU peculiar to the Ostiaks — Their diet — Ostiak beggars ..... 218

CHAPTEE XV.

Terrific storm — Thoughts of home — A Siberian soiree Sumptuous supper — The stirrup cup . . 230

CHAPTEE XVI.

Marriage ceremony — Death of Colonel Krzyzanowski— News fi'om home — Paulina's letter — Impressions duriag a walk ..... 243

CHAPTEE XVII.

Early Autumn — "Water excursion — Sand-banks— High tides — Autumnal aspect of Berezov— Solitary walk in the forest — Shamanic worshippers of larch-trees — Account of a woman who lost her way in the forest ..... 259

XXIV CONTENTS.

CHAPTEE XVIII.

The library at Tobolsk — Popularity of novels at Berezov — Tale-tellers — Samoiedes — Their tents, habits, and religion — Tragic incident at Samarov — Kapustka fete — Anna Piotrowna — Public opinion on seduction — Alarm at the appearance of a bear . . 282

REVELATIONS OF SIBERIA.

CHAPTEE I.

Journey from Kiovto Tobolsk — Departure — Prostration — Government instructions — Tula — Veteran soldier — Iron-works — Eussian currency — Murom Forest — Nijny Novgorod — Its fair.

On the 11th of March, old style, 1839, I left Kiov. The sun was shining in all his brilliancy, yet the cold was intense, and no signs of the approach of spring were as yet visible. We passed the Dnieper which was still ice-bound, in a sledge, by the road leading to Orel, and thus I set out on my long journey.

No sooner had we crossed the Dnieper, than the post-horses commenced a gallop. I still tried to catch one more glimpse of Kiov,

VOL. I. B

Z EEVELATIONS

gazing towards that ancient city again and again. At last it vanished in the dinmess of distance, and then, nnconscions of all around me, I could neither see nor hear anything. The only outward impressions, that I was yet capable of receiving, were the continuous ringing of the bells on the post-horses, cease- lessly tinkling in my ear, and the violent jerks and jolts when the sledge was tumbling up and down, over ruts and deep snow-holes on the road. These interruptions in some degree aroused me for a time from my state of abstraction and complete torpor ; but at last even they ceased to produce the slightest impression on me. Arrivals at the station- houses, relays of horses, and numberless upsettings of the sledge, did indeed remind me at times of external objects ; but then, an excruciating headache, an acute pain in all the joints of my body, and the shortness of time in which post-horses were again fastened to the sledge, did not allow me an instant for observation; for no sooner had the bells begun to tinkle, than the sledge was again on its rapid breath-stifluig course, leaping in and out of holes and hollows, tumbling over ruts,

OF SIBERIA. 6

and thus, without interruption, continuing on — on — on from day till night, fr'om night till day, without a single intermission.

At the commencement, I found my journey quite intolerable, as I could never sleep in travelling. Hence it may be imagined that my weariness was extreme, and that a few hours of rest had become absolutely neces- sary to recruit my failing strength. After travelling for two days and nights, on arriving at a station for the relay of horses, I alighted from the sledge and entered the post-house. Completely exhausted, I sank on the nearest bench, hoping to procure some repose, though it were only for one short hour. But from the agony of my mind, all my endeavours to snatch a little sleep proved in- effectual, for although my body was, from sleeplessness, in a wretched state of prostra- tion, my mind, to my great distress, continued all the while active, and kept me awake.

Wliile I was undergoing such indescribable torture, my guard entered the room, and with an authoritative air insisted that I should immediately rise, as he had no time to lose on my journey, and I might very well take

B 2

4 EEVELATIONS

my rest in the sledge. Irritated at his peremptory tone — not unlike a steed when made restive — I refused to obey, and, indeed, from my extreme debility, I could not in- stantly rise from the place, where I hoped I should be enabled to get a moment's rest. The master of the post, an old superannuated officer of the Eussian army, and a Eussian bybii'th, looked with pity on my wretched con- dition, and mistrusting my guard, demanded to see his instructions. On perusing the document, he immediately perceived that the guard was abusing his power, as, on accoimt of my sex and my age, the Government in- structions had been framed in a considerate manner, and I, evidently, was not consigned to my escort, without restraint being im- posed on them, mitigating to some extent, and as circumstances might requii-e, the severity of ordinary regulations. The docu- ment containing these instructions, the humane officer read aloud in my presence, that I might imderstand my position. Thus accidentally, and for the fii'st time, I was in- formed exactly what were my obligations, and how far I was protected. Henceforward

OF SIBERIA. 5

I could travel more comfortabl}^, and more at my ease; and as often as I felt much fatigued, I made my escort halt, to allow me repose.

This was but the beginning of my journey ; yet when I retraced in my mind the distance I had traversed, and the fatigue I experienced on the route — when I looked back, and on- ward, comparing the distance already com- pleted with the immense space that still lay before me, I felt despondent beyond expres- sion. I thought of the trials which might be awaiting me on the road, and my courage sank. Yet there is nothing to which man may not, in the end, be accustomed ; nothing which he may not be brought to endm^e. Ere a week had elapsed, my ardent imagina- tion had considerably cooled, and become more hopeful. My frame, also, had lost much of its former susceptibility, and I could easily bear up against fatigue. Now I calmly re- sumed my seat in the sledge, without betray- ing the least sign of impatience, without fi'etting, without any aversions; but as if such was my daily business, and had long been the ordinary routine of my life.

6 REVELATIONS

I had no curiosity res^^ecting the country through which we passed, or impatience to change one spot for another — peculiarities possessed generally by travellers, but abso- lutely unfelt by me. In the extraordinary situation in which I was, I could experience no kind of pleasurable emotion, and I viewed all things with utter indifference. I found nothing to hurry me on — nothing that was worthy to engage my attention, or to stimu- late my curiosity. I felt no desire, what- ever, to see any of the places or the scenery on the road. My wishes were never out- stripping— were never in advance of my sledge. My hours were quite at liberty to pass by as they pleased; my will had no share, no interest in them.

In this frame of mind, I had traversed a great part of the territory of the government of Tcherniechov, and crossed the extensive steppes of the government of Orel, so called from the city of that name, situated on the river Oka, and at length arrived at Tula. Wliile the horses were being changed at this town, I entered the post-house, driven in by the cold, from which I was suffering

OF SIBERIA.

severely. Here I happily found an old soldier of the Minsk regiment of infantry, who some time back, when that regi- ment was stationed in our province, had his quarters in a village belonging to myself. This circumstance, trifling as it may appear, made us consider each other in the light of old acquaintances ; such as had seen the same objects and places, or, at least, had some reminiscences in common, which alone speaks volumes to those who, removed from their native place, happen to meet in a distant land. I shall for ever remember the few moments of conversation I had with the veteran soldier.

In the reception room, at the same post- house, my attention was not a little attracted by various articles from the iron manufactory of Tula, admirable for their pohsh and lustre. They formed an agreeable exhibition, and were evidently exposed to view as a bait to travellers — such, at least, they were to me. Charmed by the display, I experienced a strong desire to make a choice of some of the more useful of the articles, and take them with me as souvenirs from Tula. I

8 REVELATIONS

thought, too, they would be of service to me, as I was going to a country which scarcely possessed any manufactures ; and having but little luggage, they would be no incumbrance. I made a selection of such as I considered would prove most serviceable for female work, as knives, scissors, bodldns, and such other trifling articles, and a seal, bearing a well- known larch tree for its symbol.* After I had duly settled my account, and was left alone, I was examining my pui'chases, and admiring their exquisite workmanship, when I fancied I heard a cautious step behind me, as though somebody was approaching, and suddenly felt a small roll of paper thrust into my hand. I instantly turned round, and beheld the veteran soldier, but he had already glided away, and now stood at a distance. He cast a significant glance at me, but was silent. " There is some mystery in all this," thought I ; but I made no remark.

Curiosity is never more alive or more acute, than when it is stimulated by secrecy. I thrust the roll of paper in my pocket, waiting for

* The larch-tree is symbolical of Siberia; and in this place, identical with banishment to that country.

OF SIBERIA. 9

some favoiirableopportuiiity when I could read it unobserved, without running the risk of compromising the giver of it. I longed for this opportunity, and as soon as I saw my- self alone, I imfolded the crumpled paper, and read in Eussian characters, traced some- what clumsily, as follows :

" In paying bills, attend to the paper cur- rency, which is diJBferent in this coimtry. You paid two roubles more than you ought. To prevent your being cheated in other places, I enclose for you ' Tables of the currency.' "

After perusing the scrawl, I signified ^with a grateful look my thanks to the kind- hearted veteran. Afterwards I tried to make out in what manner I had been imposed upon, but could not unravel it ; having made my bargain in copper assignats of the cur- rency, and paid the amount due in the same coin. Perplexed by my calculations, I watched again for an opportunity to speak to the veteran, and obtain from him more accm^ate information on the subject. From his explanation, I found the system of cur- rency in those parts to be so strange and so intricate, that without the aid of the Tables,

B 3

10 REVELATIONS

and some notion of other technicalities, it was quite uniatelligible. Not a single species of monetary currency, neither that of houmasliM, as the paper assignats are called, nor that of silver or copper, cii'culated according to its nominal or real value. It is true that in making the accounts, it was customary to reduce all to copper assignats as a fixed standard; but in the payment of bills amounting to twelve such assignats, only ten assignats were to be paid, and the matter was considered as settled. Why it was so, is to this day a perfect puzzle to me, and I am at a loss to account for it. As to silver coin in circulation, it was not taken ad valorem^ but in its relative value to the copper assignats; and this computation had some- how become so complicated by the fractional reduction of the kopeJcs^ that it was quite im- possible to get out of the maze of confusion, except with the aid of the Tables, or by means of long practice.

Quite at a loss to comprehend the wisdom of such a monetary system, and still less to appreciate its expediency, but consideriag that on my farther journey the information

OF SIBERIA. 11

might be very useM, I humbly bowed to my informant, and put his Tables, with which he had the kindness to provide me, into my pocket ; and I had, indeed, frequent occasion to consult them. I cannot say that the knowledge of my having been cheated, had on this occasion been of any avail ; for no sooner had the vendor of the articles pocketed the money, than he vanished, and I did not see his face again.

I should like to have seen the whole of Tula, which appeared to be a flourishing city; and I particularly wished to visit its iron foundries, and other manufacturing establishments, but I soon found how idle were all my aspirations. The implacable tinkling of bells began again to ring in my ears, accompanied by my guard's ill-omened song, ending in the customary refrain^ " Onwards — onwards — onwards."

Tula, as far as I was able to judge from its exterior, is a beautiful town. It has broad streets, houses with iron balconies and iron gates, and gardens enclosed with railings, which make it appear fresh and neat, and altogether very picturesque. Its environs, however, failed to leave any such agreeable

12 REVELATIONS

impression on my memory. Immense steppes, covered with snow, like vast winding-sheets, extended on all sides as far as the eye could reach. For many hundred versts on my route, no town, no village, and, indeed, no decent or tenable human habitation presented itself; and all that could be descried on that vast desert, were solitary willows, standing at great distances from each other on the road, not so much to border it, as to indicate the way to the traveller.

From Tula our way lay to Eazan. This town passed, we approached the great Murom Forest, celebrated in innumerable wonderful stories and ancient traditions, circulating among the people. The Mui'om Forest is especially renowned as the scene of countless robberies and murders, perpetrated in old and modern times. The imagination of the neigh- bouring people seems never to weary of creating all sorts of new stories of this kind, or embellishing old ones. Post-masters and drivers, with fancy more or less poetical, and ever inclined to Oriental exaggeration, here, on this one theme, act the part of national bards, and recount these dismal tales with the greatest

OF SIBERIA. IS

eagerness to the astounded and fascinated traveller.

I had much pleasure in listening to these wild stories, in so far as they appeared to be the fruit of a national poetry — originating naturally from a local source — and were not a mere offspring of imagination, artificially kindled and excited. Still, in spite of the strong impression they produced on my fellow- travellers and our military escort — spite of the solemn and earnest character of their preparations, such as loading of muskets, and searching for all possible weapons of defence, before we entered the dreadful forest — spite of all these measures of precaution, and the alarm which I detected in all countenances, I, for my part, felt not the least apprehension.

There exist certain situations apt to exalt man above all events incidental to every-day life, rendering him wholly inaccessible to all such emotions as fear. Placed in such cir- cumstances, we acquire a marvellous degree of independence, enabling us to look with contempt and utter indifference on what may cause dismay ^and alarm to others; although, at other times, and under different circumstances,

14 EEVELATIONS

we should alike experience some disquietude. This condition, which raises us above the ordinary incidents of life, is our strength, our delight in misfortune, and was now my best consolation.

We traversed the Murom Forest, the great theme of so many disquieting stories, in per- fect safety, without undergoing any of the dreaded adventures ; and indeed, after jour- neying over such an extent of steppes, tire- some by their monotony, I might almost say that it afforded me a certaia degi-ee of plea- sure. I remember I felt much relieved amid the grandeur of the sylvan scenery ; and instead of meeting fierce bands of robbers, I saw only a variety of birds, flying siagly or in flocks over our heads, and woodcocks dang- ling like as many caps on the branches of birch trees. The flapping of their wings, while these birds were flying from tree to tree, scared at the approach of human beings, was the only sound heard in the silent soli- tude of the immense forest. The sight of these beautiful birds, which were very nume- rous, made the blood of my Lithuanian heart glow with earlier feelings — and mhie was the

OF SIBERIA. 15

blood of the ancient huntsmen of Lithnania. I sprang up from my seat in the sledge, with- out knowing wherefore ; while the woodcocks with a quiet and indifferent look, gazed on us from the trees near the road, as if to mock my inability to reach them. Every time we saw such flocks as these feathered tribes, an exclamation of delight burst from me, and for the moment I forgot my situation and my sorrows.

Having traversed the Murom Forest, we approached the banks of the Wolga, and at last arrived at ISTijny Novgorod, a city far famed for its fairs. As we drew nigh, the mass of buildings had the appearance of two separate towns, quite distinct from each other ; the Wolga intersecting and running between them. The one division was full of activity, business, and animation ; the other regularly built, neat, and cleanly, but lifeless, without bearing any marks either of antiquity, or devastation by time. Quiet, immovable, and buried beneath snow, that part of the city appeared in a somnolent torpor, as if under the power of enchantment, and in its first form of youth, freshness, and grace,

16 REVELATIONS

waiting for ages the arrival of that deliverer whose destiny it was to disenthral it, and restore it to life and action.

After contemplating the silent scene for a few moments, I rubbed my eyes, and looked again, but all I saw remained an enigma. I asked myself what could have happened. Had the breath of plague passed over the city with its blighting influence ? Though it was apparently so fresh, and presented not a sign of decay, still all was solitary and dead !

The mystery was soon cleared up. The portion of the city where we put up, was the place where the celebrated fair is held, called Makariev Fair, after the town of Makariev, whence it had been transferred to Nijny Novgorod in 1817. It lasts five weeks ; and during this season, that part of the town becomes the mart for the productions and manufactures brought from all Europe and Asia, for sale or barter. The Wolga, by which the Baltic is united with the Caspian Sea, carries to this place merchandise from the south and the west. Here, the Calmucks, Persians, and Bukharians, come with the

OF SIBERIA. 17

produce of tlieir own coimtry ; tlie Chinese, with tjieir tea and silks ; the Siberians, with their furs and curious collections of precious stones. These and the like articles of raw produce, and the other riches of Asia, are exchanged for the choice commodities of Europe. It cheered me to see that, by- means of commerce on the very spot where I then was, and which I saw so benumbed and almost dead, intercourse was yet maintained between so many nations, differing in origin, customs, language, and religion; in the colour of their skin and in their dress ; in their physiognomy and civilisation. Divided by nearly the whole of the globe, they here meet together on friendly terms, and be- come acquainted with each other, and humanized.

The busy half of the city, which, at that time, was but just covered with snow, is awake and alive only for a few weeks. During this short period, however, all is activity and bustle within its precincts. Merchants from far and near congregate in the streets; hotels, houses, and huts swarm with a moving mass of strangers, and are overstocked with wares.

18 REVELATIONS

For these few weeks of her existence, the disenchanted city lives a longer life than her sister, on the opposite shore, during the whole year.

OF SIBERIA. 19

CHAPTEE II.

Russian fare — Companions in exile — Arrival at Kazan — Discomforts at lodgings — ^Visit from the Police Director — Visit from a Russian matron — Recollec- tions of Easter-day — Invitation from the landlady — Obstacles at departure — Aspect of the city — Variety of races — Costumes — A Tartar chief and his wife.

At Nijny ISTovgorod, having provisioned ourselves with bread and other necessaries, as, on account of the approaching Great Lent we could hardly expect to obtam at post-stations anything but barshtch,* with

* BarsMch is made of beet-root, as sour-krout is of cabbages, set in fermentation, namely, by the following process : a quantity of fresh-pulled beet-root is put in an earthen pan filled with water, and loaves of rye

20 REVELATIONS

oil, gruel, and sour-la-out, all wluch are but meagre fare, we continued our route on the ice-bound Wolga to Kazan. I have used the plui'al number, because I left Kiev simul- taneously with Madame Pauline Wilczopolska

flour are added to create fermentation. A cover is put over the pan, and hermetically closed with a rim of soft paste, to prevent the air from entering. It is then set in a warm place for ten days, after which it will draw out vinegar from the beet-root, very red and sour. To make a dish of bm'shtch, various other ingredients, as Onions, celery, cloves, pepper, bayleaves, &c., are added to make it savoury. It may be boiled with every kind of meat ; and on Lenten days with cream and oil, which is the Eussian way, and not relished by our authoress. Many other unknown dishes are mentioned in her book — some even described by her ; and receipts for others, as the Polish cake, habt/, harshtch, and the Bussian shtcy, or sour-krout, may be found in Mr. Bregion's " Practical Cook." The ingredients, and the mode of preparation of the latter, as stated in that book, are so various and so expensive, that dishes so prepared are real dainties, calculated solely for seignorial or royal tables. The late Emperor Alexander reHshed the harshtch, and so many do ; it is, like sour-krout, medi- cinal and anti-scorbutic, and much nicer. The Kussian dishes, as referred to by our authoress in her book, must be presumed to have been quite different, and consisting of more simple compounds. — Ed.

OF SIBERIA. 21

and Miss Josephine Ezon^ewska, who were my travelling companions. Both these ladies were destined for other places ; bnt we were to travel together on the same route as far as Tobolsk.

We arrived at Kazan on Good Friday. Being tii^ed, famished, and exhausted, we resolved to profit by the indulgences granted in the instructions, and rest awhile in this city, at least during the Easter festival. We communicated our joint wishes to the Ser- geant, oiu- principal guard, and as they coin- cided with his own, he readily agreed to them. It was, however, necessary to go first through certain forms, and having arranged measures with us, he left us in the sledge in the public street, commending us to the surveillance of his subalterns, and went to present himself to the authorities, to deliver his despatches, and receive farther orders. We waited his return with imdis- sembled impatience, and strove to amuse ourselves meanwhile by looking at the town. But, as ill luck would have it, darkness came on, enveloping every object, and so even this resource was denied us.

Two, three, and four hours passed, and still

22 EEYELATIONS

the Sergeant did not make his appearance. The darkness of night did not, as may be fancied, in the least diminish our impatience. Hunger, cold, and prostration of body and mind, and the vehement curses of the postil- lion, who was likewise worn out by long waiting, added beyond measure to our suffer- ings. At last, the postillion advised us to take shelter in some inn, or a shed, and not to remain in the street to perish with cold and hunger ; but our guardian escort would not hear of such a proposition, but insisted that we shoidd remain where we were till the commander arrived. Even they, however, were worn out eventually, and we were suffered to put up at an inn.

It was now about ten o'clock; and no sooner did we enter the room, and felt the genial warmth, than we entirely forgot our other wants, being seized with an overwhelm- ing inclination to sleep, which involimtarily closed oui* eyes. A cai^pet spread on the floor, and a pillow under our heads, was the extent of our wishes — the earthly paradise our hearts sighed for ; and directly we laid down, we sank into a profound sleep.

It was not, however, long before we were.

OF SIBERIA. 23

to oiu' great annoyance, disturbed by our sergeant, wbo brought us otherwise agreeable news, namely, that the authorities had com- plied with our wishes, and that quarters were ready for us, but that we must proceed to them immediately. We besought permission to pass the remainder of the night where we were, but our entreaties were in vain. We were answered that this was impossible, and that an officer was waiting in the adjoining room who was to see us to our assigned lodgings. We saw there was no remedy, and that we must quit our warm chamber, resign our cherished pUlows, and go to the new quarters. Accordingly we got up and collected our luggage, consoling ourselves with the thought that for all this trouble we should in the end be indemnified by imdis- tui'bed rest diu-ing the following two days.

It did not take long to pack up, so that the officer who was to accompany us, and who was very considerate, was not kept waiting. But another annoyance was in store for us. At midnight it was not easy to find horses, and our own post-horses were gone. Through the activity, however, of our

24 REYELATIONS

Sergeant, imited to the efforts of the officer, all difficulties were at last overcome.

On arriving at onr quarters it was past two o'clock, and we found ourselves in a house which had long been uninhabited, and which gave forth a damp and musty odour, so oppressive as scarcely to suffer us to breathe. The walls were mouldy, and reeked with moisture, and were covered with a swarm of black worms, knovm in Lithuania by the name of prusaM (Prussians), and in Eussia by that of tarakany ; amongst which huge black cockroaches — a different species of insect from the former — crawled, not unlike officers among soldiers, in various directions on the wall.

At this miserable spectacle a thrill of horror crept over my frame. The idea of a struggle at night, and in the dark, vrith whole hosts of such hideous vermin, appeared to us beyond the possibility of endurance ; and we all beseechingly implored the indulgence of the officer to be allowed to pass the night in sledges, in the open coiu't-yard, where we could at least breathe freely, and be immo- lested by such horrid creatures. The officer

OF SIBERIA. 25

felt embaiTassed by oui' request, and we could see that he sincerely desired, as far as it depended on him, to secure us a comfortable night's rest.

" I acted for the best," he said, " in bringing you here. I certainly could have taken another house, which was dry and clean ; but reflecting that as you anived yesterday perishing with cold, you might wish above all things for warm rooms, I chose this; for the other house is exceedingly cold."

" Even if a thousand times colder, if there be such let us go,'' we all cried, as with one voice.

The officer instantly ran outside to give orders not to cany down the things. He soon returned, and said that the horses were abeady taken out of the sledges, but that he had ordered them to be put in again. We thanked him, and offered to go on foot, if but to draw breath in the open air; and thus leaving our sledges behind, we proceeded, led by the officer to the other house. We soon arrived there, and were satisfied with it ; for though very cold, we found that at least it

VOL. I. c

26 REVELATIONS

was clean and dry. The officer who had so kindly escorted ns now took leave ; and we once more set abont preparing our beds.

Before we finished our arrangements it was near daylight, and whether owing to our shifting from place to place, or our consequent agitation, our inclination for sleep had by this time forsaken us. But reflecting that we had an entire day for rest, we closed the window-shutters, and threw ourselves on our couches, the more joyfully as we felt confident that we should not be disturbed by any summons for departure. Por some time we sought to console and comfort each other, and felt so soothed by our efibrts, that even- tually we fell into a sweet slumber ; and I know not how long we should have enjoyed it, had we not been suddenly aroused by a violent knocking at our door. "We then heard our Sergeant's voice outside, announcing that the Director of the Police had come, and wanted to speak to us. We immediately started up and opened the window-shutters ; and then, with the utmost dispatch, arranged our travelling toilette, and expressed our rea- diness to receive that important functionary.

OF SIBEEIA. 27

On entering, the Director of the Police inquired very civilly how we were satisfied with our quarters, and whether we had slept well. "We, in our turn, politely answered that we were perfectly satisfied.

" I very much rejoice that it is so," said he ; " and since you no longer feel fatigue, you will, my ladies, be prepared to set out this day on your further journey."

We cast on each other a look of extreme disappointment. So much trouble, worry, and vexation — and all this for nothing : not even one single day of repose after a sleep- less night, were the thoughts that flitted through our minds.

"I am not sure. Sir," said I, at length; " but you might, perhaps, know, that by the instructions regulatiag oui* journey, we are allowed some moments for repose, if we re- quire it, in all government towns. We, therefore, firmly rely on the favourable tenor of the regulations, that this will be conceded to us ; and we have no suspicion, Sir, that you will try to infringe them."

"This is all true," said he. "You cer- tainly have this permission granted to you,

c 2

28 EEVELATIONS

ladies, by the regulations. Still, as you have already, to all appearance, taken sufficient rest from your journey, you will not, I hope, be the worse for continuing it to-day further."

To this I said not a word. The func- tionary seemed to have expected further com- plaints or solicitations, when he might have relented and yielded ; but, after a few mo- ments' pause, observing nothing but resig- nation and silence, he said :

" Well, then, to please you, ladies, I per- mit you to remain here a few hours longer." We received his decree with deference ; and he then took leave.

Vexed, disappointed, and quite worn out with fatigue, we commenced packing, deter- mined not to be again tempted, even if occa- sion offered, to stop on the road ; but, however wearied we might be, continue our journey, as nothing could be so harassing as these interruptions.

Calling in our Sergeant, we announced that we were instantly to leave the place. But all around seemed to be engrossed with the sole idea of Easter, and how to pass it

OP SIBERIA. 29

joyMly : nobody was preparing for the joiu-- ney, or cared to stir. The clerks in the pub- lic offices, and the postillions, thought of nothing but the blithesome festival ; and so, taking our seats on our luggage, we awaited the result, not knowing what to do. Sud- denly the door opened, and we received an unexpected visit.

A respectable elderly matron entered the room. I forget her name, though she an- nounced it on presenting herself. She was the widow of a Eussian colonel, and had been at "Warsaw with her husband when his regi- ment was quartered in the neighbourhood. She had then formed many acquaintances in that city, and could not forget the happy days she had spent in Poland. On being apprised of our arrival from that remote country, without any friends or acquaintance in this foreign land, she came to assure us of her sympathy, and, according to the custom of the place on Easter-day, to present us with a red egg.

Expressing our sincere thanks to the worthy matron for her courtesy, we accepted her kind present, wishing her many happy

3b

EEYELATIONS

returns of the season, and we had the plea- sure of half-an-hour's most interesting con- versation with her. After she left us, and we were again given up to our reflections, the sight of the painted eggs brought innu- merable recollections into our minds — all con- nected with this mirthful though solemn fes- tival, as commemorated in our own country. There all the days are devoted to acts of hospitality — to meetings with relatives and friends. During that happy period, the aged and young assemble at festive boards, ex- changing mutual remembrances, and con- tracting new links or sympathies. Associa- tions are then formed, ineffaceable from memory, and for ever dear to the heart.

While we thus indulged in silent commu- nion with ourselves, the animal nature of man, with its inferior cravings, started up on the scene. Hunger failed not to call up far different associations and recollections ; and, along with these, a traiu of enjoyments — as tables covered with a variety of viands — fat hams, roasted pigs, stuffings, and sausages ; and a profusion of delicious cakes, the famous bah?/, and the masurki. These various deli-

OF SIBERIA. 31

/

cacies presented themselves to our imagina- tion in vivid colours, and with their ambro- sial odour and aroma of spices, quite capti- vated our senses. We then experienced that nothing so powerfully excites the imagination as a famished stomach.

The eggs, which the Colonel's dowager had kindly presented us, were swallowed in a .twinkling, with a voracity not easy to be described. Poor dame ! she little suspected that, in performing usual formalities, she had adniLoistered to our wants. But her gift was not imlike a fly snatched by a voracious dog, so little did it satisfy our craving appetite. We instantly called our Sergeant, and begged him to send somebody to the market to fetch some ham, sausages, rolls, or whatever could be got in the town,

" There is no market to-day," was his answer. " Besides, no such things are sold here."

' ' How ! Is there no food to be had then ? " I asked.

" I do not know," he replied,

" Surely, neither you nor your companions can exist without food ?"

32 REVELATIONS

'' We ordered our landlady to furnish us with some eatables."

'' Ask her, then, to do the same for us."

''But you, ladies, will, perhaps, not relish the fare which we eat."

" You are jesting," I replied. " Those who are perishing of hunger, can they be fastidious ?"

The Sergeant left us to give his orders. Meanwhile our meditations involuntarily re- curred to our own country, and the Easter festivities of our native homes. What an abundance during that season exists every- where, from the stately palace to the hum- blest hut ! With what cordial hospitality the traveller, frequently a complete stranger, is welcomed even by the poorest man, to partake with him and his family of the consecrated egg and of his household meal ; the host rejoicing that Heaven had sent him a guest. And thus all, be they rich or poor, are satiated with the good things which a bountiful Providence has vouchsafed. At these reminiscences a sigh arose, and I in- wardly prayed that God would preserve my country fr-om being contaminated with

OF SIBERIA. 33

foreign maimers, that this national custom, might never be obliterated — a custom which has for ages united, with such a beautiful link, hospitality and the observances of reli- gion.

In the midst of these meditations, we were interrupted by the entrance of our landlady, a person belonging to the burgher class of Kazan. Without any preamble, she announced, with the greatest simplicity imaginable, that she had a number of friends in the house, and as they were all desirous of seeing what Polish ladies were like, asked whether we would not come down-stairs to give them that pleasure ; and we might at the same timie see what eatables she had that would please us, as she knew not our customs or tastes.

We looked at each other, and could not help smiling. We were desired to act the part of theatrical figurantes, neither more nor less, before the descendants of the Tartars. Our self-respect had been aroused and hurt ; but it soon yielded to a frolicsome mood. " What hurt can there be," we began to reason within ourselves, " in becoming for

c 3

34 REVELATIONS

awhile objects of curiosity to people of whom we know nothing? Are they not willing to repay us with reciprocity ? sight for sight — spectacle for spectacle. Such is the way, and such is the daily routine of the world. In fine, we shall be made partakers of their henitP^ Haying arrived at this laudable resolution, we answered that we would com- ply with her request, and would soon come down-stairs.

No sooner had our hostess passed the door, than each of us thought of nothing but her toilet. We unpacked, and endeavoured as well as we could to arrange our dresses, which after a fortnight's travelliug, had, as may be imagiaed, neither freshness nor elegance to

* The lenity Polish swiencone, is a custom peculiar to Poland, and in part also to Russia. After the Great Lent, terminating on Easter-day, no meat is touched, even on that day, until it has been blessed and consecrated by the priest ; whence the name henit (benediction) was derived. The display of the viands of all sorts on that occasion is very great ; and the tables are not only sump- tuous, but are kept open for friends, and even for stran- gers. Easter is, on that account, a day of unbounded hospitality.

OF SIBERIA. 35

recommend them ; but, to make up for that, we resolved to render them at least as smart as possible, which being done, we descended, as we had promised, to gratify the curiosity of the impatient public.

We entered the room, and were led to a place of honour, where we seated ourselves. Some conventional inquiries were made of us, which we civilly answered, and were then silent. But, to my shame be it confessed, I was not satisfied with the charm of exchang- ing my ideas with the company, but looked right and left to see if there was a table which would promise some more substantial fare. To my chagrin, however, I was unable to catch a sight of anything like the longed- for henii.

All I could see was a table at the window, opposite the door, covered with a clean white cloth (emblematic of the festival), on which were arranged three small plates, one con- taining a frozen apple cut in tiny slices spread over with sugar ; another embellished with a few raisins ; and the third containing some kind of nuts, in shells, or rather husks, of chesnut-brown colour.

36 EEVELATIONS

The hostess took up these, one plate after another, from the table, and presented us with the contents of each. She entreated, and pressed us to partake of them ; but not- withstanding all the civility with which she was offering them, our hunger had acquired such a poignancy, that all her kind entreaties were in vain. All the dainties were quite unsuited to our palate. I now learnt that the unknown species of husky fruit which excited my curiosity, were cedar nuts, an importation fr-om Siberia.

Having waited awhile, and lost all pros- pect of a more solid refreshment, I asked our hostess whether she had prepared something for us, and especially if there was no meat.

However I was astonished to find from her repty, that in Eussia no preparations whatever are made for Easter ; that tables are not groaning under viands, cakes, and all sorts of generous food, as is the custom in Poland. In short, there was nothing of the kind, abso- lutely nothing. All we could get was harshtch with some meat in it, which we ordered to be brought up to our room.

After recruiting our strength with this

or SIBERIA. 37

humble meal, we were all ready for depar- ture. But circumstances over wkicli we had no control defeiTcd this event. From some reason or other post-horses could not be got ; our papers were not yet signed by the authorities ; and so we remained all day in uncertainty and suspense. At last, towards evening, the horses were brought ; but the papers were yet wanting. Oui' Sergeant was running from one office to another like one enraged, to obtain his despatches, but could not get them. In this state of perturba- tion we remained the whole night. The postillion, losing all patience, took back his horses ; and we ourselves, seeing what was going on, began to feel drowsy, and leaned our heads on our luggage to sleep. At day- break, the Sergeant returned, not having suc- ceeded in his purpose. Nevertheless, he shortly after ordered the horses to be put to, hoping there would be a chance of finding the Director of Police at home in passing his house. He was directed to do so by those who knew the habits of that official.

When we left our quarters the sun had not yet risen; but the morning was beautiful. We stopped at the police-office, and the

38 REVELATIONS

Sergeant descended for his papers; but he returned sadly disappointed, as the Director, having passed a sleepless night, had just then gone to bed, and could not be disturbed. Thus we were again doomed to wait several hours in the public street. Such delay- was exceedingly annoying, as the day was brilliant, and most favourable for our journey. "We witnessed the sun rise in all his splendour, and the prolonged twilight, in so large a city as Kazan, seemed like the awaking, or, if I might say so, the unclos- ing of the eyelids of its numerous popula- tion, which in itself was something fasci- nating. It struck me that those who are first aroused for the daily toils and duties in life, or who are among the earliest risers in towns, constituted, as it were, a separate family, differirig from others by its distinct physiognomy. They are the slavish tools to the children of luxury, and are made sub- servient to their various wants and comforts. Each member of that class appears to be marked on his forehead by this double inscription: ''Eeaduiess for labour — Neces- sity of gain."

I often looked around to see what sort of

OF SIBEEIA. 39

city Kazan was. As far as I was enabled to observe, during our passage, it appeared to be a fine and extensive town, with a good number of public edifices, and neat private houses, built of brick. Not a vestige of the former domination of the Tartars exists in it, but the progress of European civilisation is everywhere discernible.* The streets are broad and well-paved. There is a university, an astronomical observatory, a gymnasium, and some manufactories, all of which make the traveller forget that he is in the capital, and the heart of the country of the once so redoubtable Tartars, famous in Europe by their inroads, conquests, and devastating ravages.

After the lapse of several houi's, it was announced that the Dii'ector had risen. It then took but a few minutes to sign the required papers, and return them to our

* A great fire, wliich took place in 1815, destroyed nearly the whole town, except the Kremlin and a few churches, most of the houses being built of wood; so that, with these exceptions, no vestiges of the ancient city remains. Its population is about 65,000, one-fifth Tartar.

40 REVELATIONS

Sergeant; and now we were at liberty to continue our journey.

The population of the government of Kazan, both on the right and the left bank of the Wolga, consists of a number of various races, as the Tcheremisy, Mordwini, Tchuvatchs, Votiaks, Vogulitches, and Tartars, all differ- ing from each other in language, dress, reli- gion, and customs. The Tartars, however, seemed to constitute a majority among the motley crowd. The whole aspect of the country is peculiarly Asiatic. Tillages are built of wood, most of them with high minarets, also of wood. Amidst a variety of costumes, white turbans may at times be seen adorning the heads of the MoUahs, and also long veils concealing the faces of women.

The Tartar women wear long chemises, embroidered in front with coloured worsted, and this is all their apparel. The men, if they do not belong to the religious order, are dressed in a loose costume, very much resem- bling the gabardines of the Jews in Poland. It consists of a kaftan with short sleeves, tight round, without any folds in front or behind, and a high-pointed cap, with broad

OF SIBERIA. 41

flaps on both, sides, lined with fiir. Some Tartars, also, wear full coats, like our dres- sing-gowns, and small caps on the top of their heads, similar to om- jockey-caps, or the krymki of the Polish Jews.

Throughout our jomney, wherever we stopped for a relay of horses, we were sur- rounded by a crowd of people, at first curiously gazing onus as visitors from a distant country, and then minutely examining all our pack- ages. Often, as if not trusting the evidence of their eyes, they stepped nearer, and touched everything that had engaged their fancy with their hands. Women, especially, were very eager in satisfying their curiosity ; in which respect we made no difficulty, and permitted them to inspect eveiything closely.

This politeness on our part, I must own, was no great merit, being not entirely disin- terested. The costumes of these nymphs of the Wolga were lil^ewise distinguished by such, an originality, that we, on our part, were equally curious to examine them. In per- mitting them a near approach, we were only pandering to our own curiosity. IN'early at every succeeding station such a variety of

42 REVELATIONS

costume was presented to our view, as though we had arrived in quite a different country. The head-coverings of some were in the shape of tablets, falling in a perpendicular line on the forehead. Some were studded with a quantity of silver and gold coins, giving forth a sound at every movement of the head. Others were fashioned in the shape of diadems, cut out at the top in the form of a crescent, the ends of which projected on both sides, lilte two horns. These diadems, as well as the tablets, were adorned with a number of plates and studs of brass and of other metals. Some females had their bosoms and necks covered with silver and gold medals of various sizes, and a portion being bored and strung together, formed a sort of costly necklace.

I should not end were I to describe all the costumes which struck me as exceedingly original and remarkable; and, indeed, all description would fall short of correctness. My impressions, though gathered on the spot, were but momentary, and I noted them only in memory, having neither paper nor ink to make memoranda.

At one of the post stations between Kazan

OF SIBEEIA. 43

and Perm, a chief of a village, actuated, as I suspected, less by politeness than curiosity, arrived to pay his respects to us. He was no longer young, but looked robust. He was dressed in a broad kaftan, with a turban on his head, and led his wife by the hand, whom he presented to me. A long veil was thrown over her head, concealing the whole of her waist, and her other dress. Her face, how- ever, was uncovered ; but it was horrible to look at, so thickly was it overlaid with rouge, white and crimson ; and her eyebrows were painted jet-black. It bore not the least ap- pearance of a human face, but more that of a hideous mask, or a doll made of parchment. Her bedizened visage, and her fantastic cos- tume, made me think that we, at that moment, were at a masquerade, and had one of its most perfect patterns before us.

It was not, however, long before I repressed my foolish wonder at her figure, and resumed an earnest countenance. Having formerly had frequent opportunities of seeing the Tartars, and not being at all a stranger to their manners, I entered into conversation with this strange couple.

44 REVELATIONS

"How many wives have you got?" I asked the Mussulman.

" Four," replied he.

" Why did you not bring them all here ?"

" All the others are old and ugly ; I never take them with me. This one is but thirty- two years, and I am proud of her," answered he, casting a doating glance on his better half.

" How many children have you ? "

" Only four sons and nine daughters," re- plied he, with a mournful shake of his head, as if desirous we should pity him.

To give his sorrow on that account a ludi- crous turn, I continued :

" They are handsome, lusty maidens, sui-ely, and you will get a good round sum of money for them."

" But has it not cost me much to rear them ? I much doubt that I shall get back my money," replied he.

Such was this worthy and calculating pater fmnilias of the Steppe.

or SIBERIA. 45

CHAPTEE III.

Perm — New villages — Ural Mountains — Ekaterinburg — A roguish innkeeper — Post- carts — Defects of female education — Tumen — Anationalrelic — Tobolsk — Com- patriots in Exile — Devotedness of a young lady — De- parture — Inundation — Bronikov — Counter-order to return.

Feom Kazan to Perm, we continued oui* journey amidst a barbarous population, rem- nants of different nations and races, of which, at a period not far distant, the ancient Tartar Khanate of Kazan was composed. "We ar- rived at last at Perm, which is now the capital of the Government of that name. It is a mean and poor town, on the river Kama, with a scanty population, amounting to only

46 REVELATIONS

seven thousand inhabitants. Sixty years ago, it was but a small village ; but the Eussian Government, finding it necessary to have a central place for the new Government, created it into a city in 1781, since which time it has been materially enlarged.

Perm may be said to be at the base of the Ural Mountains. On quitting this town, we found ourselves at the foot of those heights, and could behold their stupendous summits. It is here that the earth has opened rich stores of wealth to human labour and industry. We saw large, beautiful, and populous villages, like as many infant towns springing up around, some of them with hundreds of neat, well-built, and comfortable houses. Their rapid growth struck us with amaze- ment, and agreeably engaged our attention. Everywhere we saw industry and labour recompensed by wealth and comforts. The soul seemed to expand at this change from low and miserable hovels by the side of stateljyand magnificent palaces. Far and near we beheld prosperity, and not a single mean or poor cottage along the whole of the macadamised chaussee.

OF SIBERIA. 47

At the sight of villages of two hundred to three himdi-ed houses, well-built, spacious, and erected not without some display of architectural taste, all equal in dimensions, in regular rows, and new and fresh as though they were constructed at once, and within a single day, my mind was led to consider what this region, not long ago a complete desert, owed to the powerful hand which re- claimed it — not for gorgeous palaces, to be tenanted by the luxurious and pampered few, or for stupendous monuments to flatter the vanity of the mighty and the proud, but for what is, indeed, far more commendable — hand- some and comfortable dwellings for many thousands of human beings, in reward for their labour. The spot bore the appearance of being on a sudden created by means of a magic power. That creative power is nothing else than industry, directed by intelligence, and combined with labour and perseverance.

These flourishing villages are occupied by colonies of artizans and miners employed in the mining works. They go by the appellation of Zavody. Some of them are the property of the Crown, others of Eussian nobles.

48 REVELATIONS

The whole ridge of the Ural Mountains is furrowed up by mines, chiefly of iron and copper. Some, however, yield the more precious metals, and also valuable stones.

On our passage over the heights, at the stations where we changed horses, we fre- quently had pictures offered to us for sale — a circumstance I little expected in a region so little famed for the fine arts. They were productions of the villagers ; and the objects represented were, for the most part, the Virgin Mary and the Saints of the Greek Church — gaudy and coarse daubings on wood, with nothing particular to recommend them. But what attracted my attention far more, was the landscapes, in which these figures, the objects of so much veneration, were represented standing. These landscapes were relievos of mosaic, formed of a multiplicity of various- coloured stones, large and small, not polished, but such as are found in their natural state. Topazes white and pale, amethysts, aqua- marines, cornelians, blood stones, emeralds, chalcedonies, and otherSj when so combined, produce a wonderful effect ; and, undeniably, the conception is no less original than striking.

OF SIBERIA. 49

The range of the Uralian Mountains is of enormous extent. The road from Perm to Ekatarinburg runs in an oblique direction, and therefore its real breadth cannnot be exactly defined ; but as the chausee was con- stantly ascending, and we were passing on it from one acclivity to another for several days, the distance may safely be computed at se- veral hundi-ed miles. The road on which we travelled was well made and even, as are, upon the whole, all roads constructed by the Government.

The mountains are covered with forest, spreading over cliffs of colossal height, which protrude in a fearful manner. These gigantic masses, rising from their bases like so many castellated structures — some con- tiguous, other at greater distances from each other, standing apart solitary, bare and impending, look like giants under the power of enchantment, placed here to combat storms and drifts of snow, which in vain try to shake or entomb them. Others, of a bulk less stupendous, rear thefr summits one upon another, forming themselves into huge pyramids ; while some are thrown into the

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50 REVELATIONS

most fantastic shapes, as though an invisible hand, playing with their enormous peaks, had scattered them at hazard around. Prime- val forests, and trees of centennial growth, spread out their broad branches in vain to conceal the nakedness of these giants, tower- ing in the vast desert ; they, through winter and through summer, ever remain the sam.e — and ever Avill !

Having crossed this sterile tract, we ar- rived at Ekatarinburg, nother beautiful town of the Government of Perm, far superior to the capital of the province.

This flourishing town lies on the Iset. At the first glance at this river, it became manifest, from the character of its cmTcnt, that it did not emerge fi-om the Uralian range ; as all rivers originating in these mountains, pm-sue their course westward, and then, branching out in southern and northern direc- tions, one set empty their waters into the Caspian Sea, and the other into the Arctic Ocean. We immediately observed that the cmTcnts took a contrary, that is, an easterly direction, emptying themselves into the Oby, The latter, one of the grandest rivers of

OF SIBERIA. 51

Siberia, after taking up its iniiumerable tribu- taries from the west, the south, and the east — overflowing by its ramifications vast countries in its coui-se, falls through the Oby Gulf into the Arctic Ocean.

Ekatarinbm-g is one of the towns founded in 1723, and contains a good number of fine buildings. It is the central point of the ad- ministration of mining, with a mint estab- lished by Government, and is tolerably populous. It is, besides, celebrated for its mines and iron-works, its mineral ores, and its process of polishing precious stones.* Gems of every kind, and all sorts of jewellery, can be had here at a very moderate price. Amethysts, opals, chalcedonies, clnysolites,

* This town is particularly celebrated for its mala- chite works, specimens of which, as a magnificent folding- door, superb tables, chairs, and vases, were dis- played at the Great Exhibition, The richest mines of malachite are Dimidof's property. On this spot, the rough blocks of malachite, according to Cottrell's state- ment, are sold for eight hundred rubles the pud, or about a guinea a-pound. It is not the mineral itself that is expensive ; but, from its extreme hardness, the working and polishing are very difficult, and enhance its value.

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52 EEVELATIONS

topazes, aquamarines, emeralds, and a variety of rock-crystals, are exposed for sale in great quantities, polished and unpolished; and some are not inelegantly set. But like a famished Arab, who happened to find in the desert a bag filled with pearls, and kicked it away with his foot, saying : " These were but pearls," so I cast myself a look of complete indifference at them, obliged to move on, on — and still on. Had it depended upon my own will, indeed, I certainly should have stayed awhile longer. The survey I could then have taken of the mining establishments and the different manufactories, as well as the manner of liviag, and the social condition of the inhabi- tants, would, I am sure, have afibrded me much pleasure. The well-being of human com- munities in happy groups, is a matter at once as dear to the heart as instructive to the mind ; but the study of such a picture was not for me ! Up to this time the sledge was our vehicle, and the roads being good and even, we travelled at a tolerably good pace. We were constantly moving in the eastward direction, in which we hoped to continue till we should reach Tobolsk. But on our arrival at Ekata-

OF SIBERIA. 53

rinburg matters changed, and instead of snow and frost, there was a thaw, and the horses waded with our sledge knee-deep in mud and mire.

This was a great disappointment, and a serious annoyance to us. We were obliged to put up at an inn, and our Sergeant, impa- tient to proceed, went to make inquiries as to the state of the road, and to effect arrange- ments accordingly. On his return, he brought us the disagreeable news, that on the road to Tobolsk no snow was to be found, and therefore it would be necessary to abandon our sledge.

Nothing could be more provoking. Our combined purses being very light, and we having little chance of seeing them soon re- plenished, we found it impossible to procure a spring carriage of the meanest description. In this dilemma we were advised to take a miserable Eussian post-waggon {jperek-ladna).

There was no time to deliberate. Our comfortable sledge became the property of the innkeeper, who, " feeling for our situa- tion, (as he said,) and out of pure magna- nimity," paid a few rubles for it to our

54 REVELATIONS

Sergeant. Unwilling as we were, we un- packed allj and put our luggage, as well as we could, on the new vehicle, and so set off.

Here I cannot help saying, without fear of being accused of affectation, that the Eussian post vehicles, or more properly, common carts, sometimes called tarantas^ are insufierable — nay, detestable. For this seeming fastidious- ness, if I should be taxed with it, my sex, my age, and my previous habits, must plead an apology. These carts are high and short, and from this peculiar construction, are exceed- ingly shaky. They are very shallow, and much higher in front than behind, which renders it extremely difficult to sit on them, and keep one's balance. Consequently, at every concussion, I was made to jump up a quarter of a yard high, to the complete dislo- cation of my joints. At such jerks and jolts, tears involuntarily gushed from my eyes.

We gladly left Ekatarinburg, where the streets were all mud and mire, and proceeded on our tedious journey. To our surprise, we had hardly gone one verst from the to^vn, when we found the road again covered with snow. As we went on the snow grew deeper,

OP SIBERIA. 55

and wherever the eye turned, its white mantle covered the earth. I now entered into con- versation with our diiver [yamstchik\ and learnt, to my utter astonishment, that with the exception of Ekatarinbui^g, we should meet nothing but snow through the whole road to Tobolsk. He also told me that all tht^ people at the post-station had been at a loss to understand how we could wish to ex- change our comfortable sledge for our present odious vehicle.

Instantly, a thought flashed across my mind, that we were the victims either of some knavish trick, or some misimderstanding, and, order- ing the driver to stop, I called the Sergeant, and communicated to him what I had heard, at the same time inquiring where he had obtained his information that there was no snow on the road to Tobolsk — a report, which, as he himself might see, was not true.

From the Sergeant's answer, it appeared that his inquiries had been confined to our inn; and the inkeeper, from the paltry motive of profiting by the purchase of our sledge, had imposed upon him, and placed us in this dismal plight. Enraged, however, at such

56 REVELATIONS

infamous conduct, and ashamed of being so grossly cheated, he instantly despatched two gens-d'armes to Ekatarinburg, with the money which he had got from the innkeeper, to demand the restitution of our sledge ; and should this be refused, they were to complain to the authorities.

Meanwhile, we went on to the next station, there to await the result. On our arrival there, I was so extremely tired, and felt so ill, that I was not very sorry at the occasion thus offered for a moment's repose, knowing that the gens-d'armes could not return for some time.

After long expectation, they at length came back, but brought no sledge. The magnanimous purchaser, who had bought it for several rubles, " in consideration of our position," would on no account part with the excellent bargain he had made; and the authorities, to whom the case was referred, decided that, as the money had been accepted, and the purchase was made in consequence of a voluntary agreement on both sides, they saw no reason for reversing the transaction.

Thus having lost our cause, and in addition

OF SIBERIA. 57

several rubles for the hire of horses for the gens-d'armes, nothing remained but to pro- ceed in our own wretched cart, which, by- the-bye, we could have given us at every post-station, as we had a right to demand it. Instead of this wheel-cart, however, to our great delight, each of the succeeding stations accommodated us with sledges, and hence- forward we found our travelling more comfortable : at least we ran no risk of being shaken to atoms.

The only inconvenience now was, that on our arrival at each station we had to transfer our luggage from sledge to sledge — an operation which was at first very annoying, as I had no servant. Insignificant as this circumstance may appear, it made me often reflect on the defects of our system of educa- tion, in consequence of which so large a class of females are made completely dependent on the services of hirelings. I firmly determined for the futm^e to get rid, on my part, of such an injmious habit, and did not at all regret that an opportunity was then offered for my entering at once upon that practical course.

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58 REVELATIONS

At last we arrived in the Government of Tobolsk. Those only who have had to per- form so long a jonrney, equally tedious and uncomfortable, can conceive how agreeable it was to be able to contemplate its termination, however unpromising and uninviting might be the spot before us. In painfal situations, change of place gives relief; and it is like that which is experienced by the bed-ridden when they turn on their other side.

Still, Tobolsk itself was not so near. "We had yet to traverse a thousand versts.* Nevertheless, my imagination had already become familiarised with great distances. The whole difficulty lies in the termination of the first half of our journey ; and the other half, at every step made iu advance, becomes by degrees more endurable.

A thinly-inliabited steppe, little better than a desert, brought us to the small town of Tumen, situated at 250 versts from Tobolsk. This is the principal town of the district, which is called by the same name, and is di- vided into two parts by the river Tara. I

*• A Eussian tverst is equal to about tkree-quarters of an English mile.

OF SIBERIA. 59

observed there were some manufacturing es- tablishments here, and among them, a foundry for church bells.

On the bank of the Tara I saw a building erected by the inhabitants to preserve the boat in which Alexander, the heir-apparent to the Russian crown, was ferried across the river, when on his visit to Siberia, if I am not mistaken, in 1835. The boat is lined inside with a green woollen cloth, and is sui-mounted by a canopy of wood, hung with white curtains. The chair of state, in the shape of a throne, is of red damask, and is set with the Emperor's portrait, crowned by his cypher.

This incidental visit of the Grand Duke is remembered as a great epoch at Tumen. The principal inhabitants of the to^vn es- teemed it an honour to be permitted to ferry their august visitor over the river, and the Prince, to mark his sense of the coui'tesy shown him on that occasion, condescended to leave an autograph of his name on the edge of the boat, and ordered the names of ten of the merchants of Tumen to be added under his o-wTi. The loyal citizens, to preserve

60 REVELATIONS

these signatures, put them under a glass. The boat-house is kept locked up, and shown as a national edifice.

Starting from Tumen, we arrived in due time at Tobolsk, the capital of Western Si- beria. "We had been just a month on our journey, having left Kiev on the 11th of March, and arrived at Tobolsk on the 11th of April. We had throughout a very easy sledge journey, there being plenty of snow on the roads, though on approaching Tobolsk it commenced to thaw, and torrents of melted snow were rushing from the hills. Obviously the beams of the vernal sun began to manifest their genial influence.

Having gone through all the forms at the police-office, in accordance with the usage on the arrival of passengers, we put up at a guest-house (goscinnica), which is an inn ex- clusively destined for the class of exiles to which we belonged, and contains several suites of rooms, in which they are lodged. Worn-out with a whole month's constant travelling, I was delighted to find myself in a comfortable room, where I no longer heard the tinkling of the post-bells, and was not

OP SIBERIA. 61

pressed to travel on and on, but free to dis- pose of my time as I chose.

In this delicious state of tranquil repose I almost forgot that I had still a weary journey before me — for I had not yet reached my destination. In the meantime, masses of snow began to melt ; waters to rush in furious torrents along the roads ; and rivers to overflow. In short, everything seemed to prognosticate that all travelling for the present and for some time to come must cease, and the more so as there was no practicable road from Tobolsk to Berezov, except on the river, either through its waters, or over its bridge of ice. Hence I inferred I should most probably remain some time at Tobolsk.

Very soon after my arrival I gradually began to get an insight into a life new to me. It was not long before I found myself in a circle of new associates, old and new ac- quaintances, some even of our own neigh- bourhood, who had been brought before me to Tobolsk. I there met Major Szreder, a native of Grand Poland, and companion-in- arms of Severin Krzyzanowski ; Antony Pawsza, of Yolhynia ; Constantino "Wolicki ;

62 REVELATIONS

Onufry Pietraszkiewicz, of Wilna ; Ignatius Strumillo, of Yolhynia ; Stanislaus and Eaphael Kiersnowski, brothers, of the Palatine of Novogroclek. Count Charles Marchocki had arrived only a few days pre- viously. Their company had the effect of at least alleviating, though not dispelling, our anxious longings after those at home, whom it was impossible our hearts should ever forget.

Three days had been agreeably passed in thi s fi'iendly circle, and we had commenced making arrangements for a longer sojourn at Tobolsk, when on the fourth day we were all three unexpectedly summoned to the Civil Governor's, who announced that we had rested long enough, and must prepare without any delay for our onward journey ; I was to proceed to Berezov, the farthest north, and my companions to Tarra, in the south. The destination of the latter was comparatively less unfavoui'able than mine, Tarra being a district town of Siberia, and like Tobolsk, situated on the Irtish.

Notwithstanding all the natural advan- tages of the climate, and many other comforts

OF SIBERIA. 63

which Tarra seemed to afford, and which were hardly to be compared with those of Berezov — a town one thousand seven hun- di'ed versts distant from Tobolsk, in the remote north — Miss Josephine Ezonczewska, who hitherto was thecompanion of my journey, requested permission to exchange the place of her destination for mine, and accompany me to Berezov — a noble proof of her friend- ship, which I felt in the depths of my heart. I did my utmost, however, to dissuade her from such sacrifice for me ; but she would not relinquish her determination. Permis- sion was not obtained from the authorities without great difficulty and hesitation, but at last it was granted.

The 17th of April was fixed for our depar- ture; and, after taking leave of our compa- triots, we set out on our journey, again in sledges, on the river Irtish, which was still all ice-bound.

We saw the melted snow rushing in tor- rents from the steep banks, and the adjacent hills, into the river, which overflowed to a greatextent, but its ice being thick and strong, and besides still adhering fast to the banks,

64 EEYELATIONS

had not yet sufficiently risen, as it otherwise wouldj to float high and free on the swollen waters. It was a complete inundation — a deluge ; and in many places our horses had to cross deep and extensive pools. Not seeing his way, our coachman several times ran the risk of drowning his horses in holes cut in the ice, which it is the custom to do in those parts in winter, for the purpose of fishing, or to water the cattle.

Our danger and difficulties increased the further we proceeded. Often our horses and the sledges sank into such deep hollows, and into pits of melting snow, that it required a number of people to drag them out. For- tunately two Cossacks of Berezov had been sent with us as guides, and were famished with a written order from the Governor, authorizing them to ask for any number of hands in case of need ; accordingly we were accompanied from village to village by a convoy of several men on horseback, armed with shovels and poles, who rendered us good service. Notwithstanding the assistance we thus received, we did not on the first day reach even so far as the next post-station, and

OF SIBERIA. 65

were obliged to pass the night on the road.

The following day at noon we sncceeded in reaching a village called Bronikov, about thirty-six versts beyond Tobolsk. This is the remotest station at which the road by land from Tobolsk to Berezov terminates; there being during the summer no road whatever in that northern direction, but persons who go thither are obliged to proceed by water. Bronikov is colonized by Eussian settlers.

Our guides, convinced of the utter imprac- ticability of proceeding any farther, as many other conveyances had been brought to a stand at this place, and were waiting the change of season, came to a halt, and sent a report to the Governor, acquainting him with our detention.

Unpleasant as it was to remain, perhaps for the space of a whole month, in so desolate a place, consigned to a wretched hovel, without any society whatever, and even without the means of procuring the most indispensable necessaries of life, we were obliged to resign ourselves to our fate. Work and reading are

66 REVELATIOI^S

the usual resources of females in similar cases, but of these we had but a limited supply. The tenement where we were lodged belonged to the Secretary of the Post, and he had but temporarily conceded it to us, so that we could not employ ourselves in forming a household.

Meanwhile, the Governor received the intelligence of our detention, and thought it better to countermand our journey, and wait till a more advanced season should render the river navigable. The counter-order was on two accounts highly consolatory to me. Instead of being compelled, as I should have been, to spend my time in irksome solitude, imprisoned within the walls of a miserable hut, in a small and dirty village, it promised me the agreeable society of my compatriots ; and after the worry and fatigue I had suffered throughout my progress by land, and its pernicious effect on my health, the prospect of completing my long journey by the river could not but give me great pleasure, as I should no longer be exposed to the severe jolting of the road, and Avliile secure of good rest at night, might sometimes walk on the

OF SIBERIA. 67

deck diu'liig the day, working or reading as I pleased, and so I hoped in time to recruit my strength.

We retraced our steps to Tobolsk, not by our previous route on the Irtish, the river being now impassable, but by an ordinary road used in summer. I need not say how delighted we were at finding ourselves again amidst our old friends, and how they also rejoiced to welcome us on our return.

68 REVELATIONS

CHAPTEE lY.

Sojourn at Tobolsk — Lower and Tipper Town — Edifices — Interview with an exiled Colonel — "Walks on the Irtish — Tobola — Public garden — Visit from the exile Advance of spring — Breaking of ice on the Irtish — Axgali deer.

As we had to stay several weeks at Tobolsk, it was necessary to look for lodgings. Another of our country womenj an old friend and neighbour of mine, who had arrived shortly before, found herself in the same situation, and we agreed to take a house, and live together.

Spring now approached with rapid pace. Snow was disappearing from the streets, the fields, and all the environs. We lived in the lower part of the town, which was without

OF SIBEEIA. 69

any pavement ; but as the streets were laid with planks and large trunks of trees, we were able, on fine days, to take our walks in town without much inconvenience, and thus make acquaintance with the capital of Siberia.

Tobolsk lies on the right banli of the Irtish. Most of its houses are built of wood, not painted outside, and only very rarely inside. They look dusty and mean, and the town has a sombre uninviting aspect. But a small number of the houses are of brick, and these chiefly belong to a more respectable class of merchants. There are eleven churches, all brick structures.

Among the principal buildings, the Go- vernor's Palace holds the first place. It is two stories high ; another, and equally stately edifice, was built by Swedish prisoners, taken at the famous battle of Pultawa; a third, is the residence of the Archbishop of all Siberia. These three edifices are all situated on an eminence, and may be said to constitute, as it were, the basis of what is termed the "Higher Town."

Below on a plain, or more properly a peninsula wliich is formed by a winding of

70 REVELATIONS

the Irtish, lies the "Lower Town." The site being low, and not much above the level of the river, it is exceedingly damp. Both the towns, as well as all the environs, are too level to allow of a single fine view ; and the total absence of buildings remarkable for grandeur, either in their dimensions or in architectural beauty, make all the streets look alike. It is not to Tobolsk that the sight-hunters should go to gratify their curiosity. Only those who have long been resident in this place, and have become more familiar with the diiferent localities, can point out any difference between one set of streets and another ; such distinctions totally escape the eye of a casual visitor.

During one of my walks, being accompa- nied by some friends, I paid a visit to Colonel Severin Krzyzanowsld. He was a poor in- valid; both his feet are paralyzed, and he never quits his chamber.* One of our com-

* Colonel Krzyzanowski is one of the many victims of the reign of the Emperor Nicholas. He had been a most distinguished officer in the Polish army, and fought many battles under [Napoleon. He was accused, with other Poles, of complicity in the celebrated Pestel con-

OF SIBERIA. 71

pany, M, Omifry Pietraszkiewicz, preceded us to apprise the Colonel of our approach; and we waited in an outer room while his nurse, a German, prepared for our reception.

In about a quarter of an hour the Colonel was ready to receive us, and being ushered in we found him sitting in a deep arm-chair, a la Voltaire^ propped up on both sides, liis iniu'm debilitated body requiring those supports.

His long, thin hair was snow-white — bleached, as it appeared, by premature age, brought on by much suffering, and it fell down

spiracy in Russia, but the crime could not be substan- tiated against them, and they were all Ja^nourably acquitted by the High Court at Warsaw in 1828. Although a Pole, yet being born in the Ukraine, Colonel Krzyzanowski was claimed by the Czar as a Eussian subject, and without any trial whatever, transported to Siberia. For nearly twenty years it was not known where he was, or even whether he was dead or alive ; and, but for our author's notice of him, his friends would not, in all likelihood, have heard anything of him to this day. Siberia is a vast prison, and though not walled up, there is no return or escape from its confines. The rest of the unfortunate man's life — his sufferings and his mournful end, as related by our author, will now become clear and intelligible to the readers.

72 REVELATIONS

on Ms shoulders, reacliing nearly to his elbows. His face was excessively pale, and looked as though it were swollen ; the lustre of his eyes was dimmed, and their old fire quenched. As he saw us enter his lips and eyes trembled convulsively, betraying a strong in- ward emotion. We perceived that he tried to speak, and could not. He then by a movement of the hand made us a sign to approach his seat, to enable him to shake hands with us. There were but two of us in his room — Miss Josephine and myself.

It fortunately happened that at that moment the Colonel's mind was perfectly lucid, which alas ! was not its ordinary condition ; and we could see that only the excess of emotion deprived his paralyzed tongue of the power of speech. At length he recovered his self- possession, and for some time conversed with us, though not without difficulty, yet with perfect presence of mind.

Hearing that our destination was Berezov, a place known to him, having himself resided there fourteen months, he recommended us, when we arrived, to take lodgings at his former landlady's, where he said we should

OF SIBERIA. 73

be comfortable. He tried to re-assure us with, respect to Berezov and the discomforts of that place, and perhaps thinking we should be frightened, lauded the single-heartedness and hospitality of its inhabitants.

This conversation he maintained with a difficulty painful to witness. We were obliged to gather what he intended to convey, more from his gesticulations and the move- ment of his lips, than from the words he uttered. For some time we went on toler- ably well ; but at last the Colonel's faculties, exhausted by his efforts, began to flag. He still continued speaking, but we could not help observing that imagination carried him back to the shores of the Tagus, and the banks of the Seine, the stage of his past military ex- ploits. He then narrated that we could obtain at Berezov plenty of water-melons, grapes, oranges, and a variety of delicious fruits, which we knew were not to be found there, but were the produce of more genial climes.

This conversation, from its character and the direction it had taken, affected me pain- fully. I was at a loss how to abridge it,

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otherwise than by taking leave of our un- fortunate compatriot, who, on perceiving our movement, grasped our hands, and continued uttering beseechingly with his palsied tongue, "Pray stay — still longer — longer." But apprehending lest the effect of our protracted interview should prove injurious to the Colonel's health, we left him, thinking we might yet see him again at some future period.

On our way home, in order to disembarrass ourselves of the painful impression produced on our mind, we proceeded in the direction of the Irtish. Arrived on its banks, we saw an immense extent of land, as far as our eyes could reach, under water, presenting a magnificent spectacle. In gazing upon this expanse of smooth placid water, shining mirror-like before us, our sight seemed to lose itself in its immensity. At its farthest extremity we could likewise discern another distant plain : it was land, across which again another azure-like stream was rimning, at first so tiny, as to be almost imperceptible, but growing more distinct the nearer it came, gradually widening into something like a

OF SIBERIA. 75

broad high-road, which, at last uniting with the river, formed one vast sheet of water. The swollen tributary was the Tobola, coming from the far west, and emptying itself into the majestic Irtish.

On our way home we passed by what is called here a public garden, and peeped into it. It was a small piece of ground, inter- sected with gravel walks, and containing only birches and a few yellow acacias. Here and there were placed benches to sit upon, and on one side a summer-house constructed of wood. Had the season been more favour- able, I should, perhaps, have seen the place to greater advantage ; but the trees were now bereft of foliage, and the branches so scanty that they could be counted ; besides, the ground was wet and miry, and alto- gether the garden presented a doleful appear- ance.

On the following day, in the afternoon, being at home, we observed from our balcony a dorozJca^ with one horse, stop at our door. We were astonished when we saw the occu- pant of it descending. Count Marchocki, who was just then with us, from curiosity

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also approached the window, and recognised Colonel Krzyzanowski, who in his state of infirmity conld not get out of the vehicle, and was obliged to be carried by two men. It took some time to collect more hands to convey him to our apartment, which was the more diificult from its being on the second floor. His debility was so excessive that he was carried like a child up stairs.

We welcomed him with great concern and emotion ; and not having any arm-chair in our room, for the support of his feeble and paralyzed body, we made him sit on the sofa, and propped him up with cushions.

Dui'ing this visit the Colonel spoke with greater facility than on the preceding day. His conversation was more animated, and he even spoke a great deal more, as if he were determined to make up for the constraint under which he had laboui-ed on the occasion of our visit to him. To-day he would not haA^e his will in the least cramped, nor his tongue silenced, when thoughts flashed like lightning through his brain.

With inconceivable fire and rapidity, he discoursed on a variety of things and inci-

OF SIBERIA. 77

dents, plunging by turns into the past and present, and nowhere resting long, as if fore- warned of his lucid moments being num- bered and but scantily granted to him. He seemed therefore the more eager to catch at each moment, as it flew rapidly by. Within half an houi', however, his ideas grew confused, and at last became quite unstrung. He still continued speaking with the same volu- bility as before, but alas ! there was no rea- son in his words.

I did all I could to bring him back to his former train of associations, but in vain. His thoughts, having once lost their pathway, could by no means be brought into it again.

His servant observing this melancholy state of his master's miad, approached, and signified that it was time to depart, but the Colonel pushed him back. He would not have his visit abridged. He remained several hours longer, sunk in the same distressing state, and without the least shadow of am.end- ment. At last, at nightfall, he took leave of us.

Winter seemed now to be departing, and the weather every day grew finer. Nature

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awoke from her lethargic sleep, breaking through the icy fetters in which winter had enthralled her. The sun shone with more warmth, and the birds carolled gaily in the trees. It was the 10th of May,* when news at last spread that the ice of the Irtish had broken and was floating down the river, which in a few days would be open for navi- gation. This was a warning to us to prepare for departure.

Our hearts grieved as the old and well- known song recurred to our memory — the song which for one whole month was ringing incessantly in our ears, and still echoed the weary refrain^ " Onward — onward."

To drive these melancholy anticipations from our mind, we once more repaired to the

* The lOth of May here, be it remembered, is the 22iid of that month, according to the Gregorian Calendar now in general use in Europe : the Eussians still computing the days of the month, and fixing all the festivals of their Church after the old Julian style. This must be allowed for throughout our author's narrative, as that difference — which is twelve days between the two calendars — cannot be unimportant in forming a right estimate of the Siberian temperature at different seasons of the year.

OF SIBERIA. 79

"banks of the Irtish, to witness its struggle with the parting ice, and almost lament its victory. The view had scarcely anything new in itself, recurring as it does every year, and yet it is ever magnificent.

We found the ice already broken. It moved on the blue waves of the river in huge masses, slowly and almost solemnly, amidst thundering crashes from far and near. We saw the smaller craft of boats in great number, trying their adventurous course near the shore, which was already clear of all ice-floes; while the banks of the river were thronged with speculators, young and old, men, women, and children, of all ranks and stations. This was the grandest feature of the spectacle — grand because all were alive to it.

I witnessed, not without satisfaction, the temerity, the skill, and the courage with which the inhabitants ventured on an element so terrific and perilous — curbed, but not yet conquered, and which still echoed its thun- dering poean of war and defiance.

I cannot exactly state the reason, but the spectacle of a man who is resolutely braving danger, with nothing to rely upon but his

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own strength, has always had more charm for me, and excited more veneration for the grandeur of his character, than all his indus- trial conquests. This, perhaps, is the foible of our sex.

On our return home, I saw a most beauti- ful animal, called a moral. I mean no equivoque, for that was its real name. It is, I am told, a native of the Sayan and Altai mountains.*

I never saw an animal equal it in elegance of shape. It is very much like a deer, or, more properly, like an antelope. It is tall in stature, slender, and exceedingly graceful in its proportions, with thin feet and short tail. It bears its neck high, and the hair is thin and smooth, and of a brown colour. I was informed that it usually had high horns branching out like the antlers of a stag ; but at this season the animal was without any, and on the spot where they grow there was

* The moral is probably the argali, or capra ammon, whose horns, as mentioned by Mr. Cottrell, are im- mensely large, very spiral, and strong. The moral is very shy, and lives in the most inaccessible spots, like the chamois.

OF SIBERIA. 81

only a soft protuberant excrescence, covered with delicate hair-like moss. This horny protuberance grew so rapidly, that, in the course of a few weeks, the animal's head was crowned with noble antlers. The moral I have described was kept in the stables of Prince Gortchakoff, Governor -General of West Siberia. It was very tame, and walked freely about the town.

These animals are generally very easily tamed ; and many people who take a par- ticular liking to them, keep a number of them as domestic cattle.

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CHAPTEE V.

Preparations for departure — Spring — The Upper Town — Ceyzik's house — Prince Gortchakoff — His removal to Omsk — Roman Catholic missions— A real solitude — Embarkation — Cabin — Farewells.

It was on the 12th of May that we re- ceived an official notice from the Governor- General to prepare for depai-ture to Berezov. About this town, though a capital of exten- sive district, and one next to Tobolsk in importance, so little was known here, that everybody with whom we spoke gave us a different account of it. In this one particular, however, all seemed to agree, that we could not expect to meet there any of our usual comforts. The first object, therefore, for our

OF SIBERIA. 83

consideration was to purchase a stock of commodities for our future household, as furniture and provisions, such as we thought would keep on our voyage. The whole ot my time was now taken up with making purchases, packing and stowing the different articles, in which business I had every possible assistance from my countrymen, to whose kindness I was indeed much indebted.

The voyage by water would, I thought, after all, be more agreeable than travelling by land, and it mattered little how bulky or heavy were my purchases. The only draw- back was, that I was obliged to limit my wishes from the insufficiency of my means.

The privation, which, according to all accounts, I had most to apprehend in my future household, and most wished to avoid, was the supplies of the dairy ; for I was assui-ed that there were no more than two cows in the whole territory of Berezov. As for fruit, salads, and other vegetables, I was pretty sure that from the nature of the climate, they were quite out of the question, and could not at all enter on my list; but milk, cream, and butter — ^how could I be without

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them ? From Tobolsk I could only transport melted butter ; and as for tea, which is the sole luxury known to the Siberians, and next to water is considered by them one of the principal necessaries of life — the very idea of such a beverage, as drunk by them, frightened me. I well knew that I should have to encounter it at every step, as it is deemed an indispensable item of hospitality ; and I could never drink tea without cream.

Such are the petty miseries of our life. They are too insignificant to be even per- ceptible amidst -strong emotions ; but in the absence of such emotions, and under an utter apathy of life, even they are apt, contemptible though they be, to assume in our fancy the shape of grave and intolerable evils.

On the 15th of May, spring gladdened us with her first cheerftd vernal smile. Warm and genial was her breath, moving the birch trees to spread out their long tresses, and deck themselves with foliage, struggling as it yet was beneath the brown tints of winter. Grass began to sprout, and vernal flowers were peeping timidly forth, and upraising their shy, modest, variously-coloured heads to

OF SIBERIA. 85

the sun, which tenderly kissed their brows with his beams, and by his penetrating warmth everywhere imparted new life. Gladdened by the changed face of nature, we resolved to turn the last days of our sojourn at Tobolsk to as great an advantage as possible, and to see more of the town and of its vicinity.

Our first visit was to the Upper Town, which, as I have before remarked, occupies an elevated site, and in so far is drier and more salubrious than the Lower Town, while the view from it over the latter is not alto- gether without interest. The communica- tion between the two cannot be said to be easy, at least it is not such as might be desired ; the new portion, which is on the hill, being separated from the old one below, by a perpendicular high cliff and a deep ditch. There are only two ways, indeed, by which the Upper Town is accessible ; one to passengers on foot, by a flight of many hundred steps leading straight up the hill, which, though the shortest way, is very irk- some for ascent ; and the other for car- riages, by a circuitous and broad road in a ravine, dug for that purpose round the

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hill, and paved with wood. Evidently, everything that the art of engineering could suggest has been employed to facilitate the communication ; but, in spite of all digging, paving, and bringing, in order to diminish the ascent, the acclivity is too great not to be most severely felt. One cannot ascend the steps without losing one's breath, and without being obliged repeatedly to stop for rest.

On reaching the top of the lull, an exten- sive plateau presents itself. It is adorned with a monument raised recently, in the reign of the present Emperor, to the memory of Yermak. The cost of the erection was paid from subscriptions collected for the purpose among the natives of Siberia.

The appearance of the Upper Town is neat ; the streets are broad ; the air, dry, bracing, and conducive to health. The Government House, the residence of the Archbishop (Archirey), the Greek Church, the barracks, and the military hospitals, con- stitute the principal buildings. The rest of the houses are nearly all constructed of wood.

OF SIBERIA. 87

Among these, a small but neat cottage had, during my visit, particularly struck me by its European aspect. It was surrounded by a plantation of birch trees, which had a picturesque effect. I inquired whose house it was, and received for answer, that the proprietor's name was Ceyzik, who formerly resided in Poland, and was celebrated for his most exquisite paintings on china and pottery. He had been, as we were told, for upwards of twenty years in Siberia, and though aged, he still looked hale and strong. On hearing this, we could not help wishing to see him.

The snug, comfortable cottage he possessed was his own property, as well as a small garden attached to it. This was very well kept, and was full of various shrubs, with beds for vegetables and flowers, traversed by carefully- raked paths, and even containing some con- servatories, reminding us more of our own country, than of the wilderness of Siberia. The taste for embellishing human habitations, by subjecting nature to the rules of art, has not yet penetrated to this region. And why so? For no other reason that I can imagine, than

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because all attempts at refinement would appear dwarfish and out of place in the pre- sence of the grandeur and variety of nature, spread out before the threshold of the hum- blest dwelling ; and I might also say because the necessity for any such artificial improve- ments has not yet made itself apparent among these wild people.

Ceyzik's pottery is much prized, and there was a great demand for it throughout Siberia. During the visit of the heir apparent of the Eussian crown, the citizens of Tobolsk order- ed at Ceyzik's manufactory a china tray, which was presented to their illustrious guest as a fine specimen of Siberian manu- factures, and was graciously received by him. In general, Ceyzik has an excellent market for his wares, and orders are often sent to him from distant parts of Siberia for vases, basins, tureens, bowls, and suchlike, both ornamental and useful crockery. All these articles are recommended for the elegance of their workmanship and their beauty of design, and are indeed entitled to admiration.

During the week, a great bustle prevailed at Tobolsk. The mercantile portion of the

OF SIBERIA. 89

citizens were busied in freighting boats and vessels destined for the Oby Sea, whence, after discharging their cargoes, they bring back loads of fish and fur. Many of the in- habitants, too, were more or less engaged in preparing for the departure of the Governor- General, Prince Gortchakoff, who was on the point of leaving Tobolsk for Omsk.* For some reason or other, difficult to explain, he was ordered to transfer his residence, with

* The object of this removal of the capital of "Western Siberia southward to Omsk, in the Kirghies Steppes, is to establish a road in a dii'ect line to Thibet, and when Russia shall have acquired a sufficiently firm footing in it, to obtain, across that country, a transit for her mer- chandise to India, if not also for the march of her Kirghies, Tartar, and other Siberian hordes, for the accomplishment of her long -cherished designs on the British possessions in Asia. The distance from Omsk to the frontier of Thibet, is but twelve hundred versts ; and, on the way through the Steppes, most of the natives are on friendly terms with the Eussians. At Omsk, a school is established in which a number of young men are instructed in the Mongolish Arabic, and Persian languages, and destined to perform the duties of diplomatic agents in Asiatic countries. The Univer- sity at Kazan is another institution to qualify men far such missions, in furtherance of the Muscovite policy.

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the whole of his staff, to the latter town, which is the capital of the district of that name, belonging in part to the Government of Tobolsk, and in part to that of Tomsk. The town of Omsk, like Tobolsk, lies on the Irtish, in a large Steppe, on the very boundary of the great Kirghies Steppes.

The inhabitants of Tobolsk were grieved at parting with their beloved Governor, whose humane conduct had gained him all hearts. They perfectly knew how much they were losing by his departure. The different func- tionaries connected with his staff and their families, in particular, were sorry to relinquish their houses, where they had long been established, as well as the society and com- forts to which they were accustomed. Turn which way you might, this was perceptible. Here a spacious house, which a few days before, we saw furnished and filled with com- pany, stood desolate and dismantled, with but naked walls, doors and windows open, all the furniture in disorder, and the servants wait- ing the arrivals of carts which were to carry them to the river side. In some places friends were bidding each other adieu ; in others,

OF SIBERIA. 91

they held a last mournful meeting at the social board.

At the river side all was in activity, and an immense crowd had assembled. It seemed as if the whole population of Tobolsk was at that moment congregated together. Some of the vessels were loaded with furni- ture, and were destined for Omsk ; others, which were to sail in an opposite direction, received on board cargoes of flour and sundry victuals and merchandize for the northern districts of the Government of Tobolsk.

Tobolsk has one Protestant church, but has not any Eoman Catholic place of worship. Subscriptions were, indeed, some years ago, collected for the erection of a Eoman Catholic church, but, in spite of the zealous efforts and contributions made by the wealthier portion of the Catholic inhabitants, they were foimd to be quite inadequate for carrying out that purpose. In the meanwhile, the Dominicans, who are established at Tomsk, occasionally visit Tobolsk to perform divine service for the Eoman Catholic residents.

At Tomsk, a distance of one thousand four hundred and thii'ty versts from Tobolsk,

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there is a Eoman Catholic chm^ch, and this is the only one in the whole of Western Siberia. The priests are sent thither commonly from the Polish provinces ; and their duty is to make annually a round of visits to all the principal places situated within that immense diocese, extending from the Ural Mountains to the river Yenisei in the east, and from the Steppes of the Kirghies to the Frozen Sea in the north. A whole year is hardly sufficient for traversing such an immense extent of territory. Indeed, no one who has not spent some time in Siberia, or has not in some degree identified himself with the manner of life of the inhabitants of that country, can possibly have any conception of its vast extent. Europe would appear narrow to the natives of the Siberian wilderness. In the principal towns where the Catholics may be numerous, the priest is allowed to stay a few days longer ; and then the Catholics of all the surrounding places, being informed by circular of his arrival, hasten for the perfor- mance of the rites of their religion, such as baptisms of children, matrimonial vows and confessions. After fulfilling his duty at one

OP SIEEEIA. 93

point, the priest, without a moment's delay, resumes his journey, visiting in that manner all the other places, distant at hundreds and often a thousand versts from each other.

The town of Tobolsk is the point at which the visitation of the clergy of Tomsk termi- nates. The priest invariably arrives there at the close of the winter, and does not, after his long pilgrimage, proceed any farther northwards, but shortly before Easter usually returns to Tomsk, where he waits till the snow has melted, and the season of navigation recommenced, and then again starts on his circuit.

The 16 th of May had been fixed for our departure for Berezov, but the merchant Brahin's vessel, which was to convey us thither, chanced not to be yet ready, or more properly speaking, what, indeed, was the real truth of the matter — it was not suffi- ciently laden, a circumstance for which we were by no means sorry. The longer we remained at Tobolsk, the better it was for us ; every moment of our prolonged stay ap- peared to us a gain from those days of soli-

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tude and pining to which we should be doomed in future.

I had never hitherto considered solitude a grievance ; on the contrary, I felt at all times reconciled to it — nay, found a degree of pleasure in it. Though I am fond of society, I somehow could easily replace the want of it, and never felt tired when alone. But the solitude which awaited me at Berezov was something appalling, hanging like a mass of deep darkness over my imagination, through which I could see only horror and despair. Had it been guarded by the thick- ness of a wall, or by locks and bars, it would have caused us little concern ; but it was, in our conception, a total interruption of all relations with the past, and a seclusion from all mankind.

At last the moment of departure arrived. On the 17th of May we were informed by the authorities that the vessel was to sail within three hours, and that we must imme- diately embark. Our things had already been carried on board — thanks to the solici- tude of our friends, who anticipated our wishes and diminished our troubles. Woman

OF SIBERIA. 95

at all stages of her life, and in all circum- stances, requires protection, and feels grate- ful for it ; and situated as we were, we felt the more a sincere thankfulness for the kind attention we experienced. Taking leave of all with whom we were acquainted, and ac- companied by a small escort of friends, we wended our way sorrowfully to the river. The vessel was moored some distance from the shore, in the deepest part of the stream, and we were obliged to take a boat. Several of our company there bade us farewell ; but others, as Charles Marchocki, Constantine Wolicki, and two brothers, the Kiersnowskis, still remained with us, and accompanied us to the vessel.

The little bark was bound to the Oby Sea, whence it was to fetch back a cargo of fish. It was one of the largest among those which annually go to the Frozen Sea for that purpose, and was of ten thousand to eleven thousand puds.* We were shown to a cabin, the only one in the vessel ; it was narrow and dark, and was packed up with a quantity of fur

* The Eussian pud is thirty-six pounds English,

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and wodJca (whisky), which rendered it any- thing but odorous. However, we had many reasons for valuing it, as it afforded us a con- venient retreat, and we could claim it as a corner of our own. It at least separated us from a motley crowd of passengers, of whom we knew nothing, and whom we could not possibly make confidants of our thoughts, feelings, or actions.

Before the signal for departure was given, our kind compatriots were busily engaged in stowing, witliin the narrow confines of our tem- porary abode, all our luggage, and arrang- ing, as comfortable as could be, our small household. Meanwhile, we enjoyed the sorrowful sweetness of confidential discourse, perhaps never to be renewed, and a last ex- change of thoughts and sympathies, which was to suffice us for years of long seclusion.

Several hours still elapsed ere all the sailors could be assembled. They were dis- persed on shore, some bidding farewell to their families, others transacting business, and some getting tipsy in the company of their friends. But we were not impatient to sail ; we ourselves were beguiling the few

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moments that remained to us in a friendly circle.

At last, to our great distress, the signal gun was fired thrice. This admitted of no further delay. The anchor was weighed. The ship moved northward, and the boat carried our friends back to the shore. As long as we could see each other, our white hand- kerchiefs waved in the air, wafting our last adieus. God alone could tell whether those sweet accents of my native language were not the last that I should ever hear.

VOL. I.

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CHAPTER VI.

Journey to Berezov — Mournful train of thoughts — Kutchum Khan and Termak— Steward — Passengers — Samovar — Boating — Perilous adventure — Gale of wind — Demiansk — Increase of cold — Expanse of the desert — Grandeur of primitive nature.

It was ten o'clock at night. The green and fresh foliage of birches, just then break- ing from their buds, was blended with the darkness of the grey twilight. The splash- ing of the oars, and, at times, the voices of the mariners, interrupted the deep silence of the night. The hills along the banks of the Irtish were disappearing, one after another, from our sight. Absorbed in my thoughts, I experienced an agony of spirit, and felt

or SLBERIA. 99

very ill. At each movement of the oar, I was carried farther and farther from my home and my family, into a region desolate and wild. We stood, Josephine and myself, silent on the deck ; our eyes involuntarily turning back, as though we were still chasing after the past. Each was following her own train of thoughts.

All around us was night, silence, and wil- derness. Darkness was gradually growing deeper, and more impenetrable. Still, we experienced no wish to retire, or to separate ourselves from the thoughts which engrossed us. At length, the trees and other objects lost their visible shapes ; and all around was obscurity. In our passage onward, how- ever, we occasionally perceived twinkling lights along the shore, and, in some places, minarets dimly looming in the dark. These were Tartar villages, and faintly as they ap- peared, they happily brought me some relief, exciting a different train of associations, and leading my memory to the times of Kutchum Khan and Yermak.*

* Kutchiiin Khan and Yermak are historical charac- ters of this region — one being the defender, the other the

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Eoth these men were valiant in the field, both conquerors. They both fought courage- ously, but not with equal success. The former being vanquished and banished from his dominions, became, in his advanced age, an exile ; bereft of his country, his family, his riches, and his sight, he died an un- known death, leaving nothing for posterity but a bright record of the greatness of his soul in adversity. The latter, after a career of wild adventures and bold exploits, being taken by surprise, by those whom he had vanquished, perished on the

invader of Siberia. Kutchum Khan was a lineal descendant of the great Ghenghis Khan, and in the six- teenth century, the most powerful chief of all the inde- pendent tribes in Western Siberia. A fort in the vici- nity of Tobolsk, of which some ruins still remain, was his usual place of residence. In the year 1578, that portion of Siberia was invaded by a Cossack of the Don, Timofief Yermak, a freebooter, who, on that account, incurred the ire of the Grand-Duke of Muscovy. Com- pelled with his followers to seek refuge in Siberia, he defeated the Khan, and extended his conquests ; but, being in turn defeated, he sued pardon of his former enemy the Czar, and to obtain protection subjected to him nominally, Siberia, a country which at that period was 80 little known, that he was considered its discoverer.

OF SIBERIA. 101

banks of the Irtish, without the least sign of a tomb to mark the spot where he fell. The mortal remains of both these worthies of yore have, perhaps, found a common grave in the waters of this great river ; yet, how different are the results produced by the achievements of one and the other. The dominions of Kutchum Khan were doomed to bend under the yoke imposed on them hj the victor ; his princely family was carried off captive to a foreign land ; while Yermak proceeded from victory to victory, from con- quest to conquest, and subjected so many nations differing in their language, manners, and religions, to one and the same sceptre and the same laws.

Thus far in the night I protracted my me- ditation, until, benumbed with cold and tired of the melancholy darkness around, we de- scended to the cabin.

But the extraordinary novelty of my situation, the reminiscences of the past, and the dim vista of the future, blending together, scared sleep from my eyelids. I saw the day dawn without once closiag my eyes.

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'No sooner did the rays of the morning begin faintly to illumine our cabin through its narrow window, than I arranged my toilette and hurried to the deck, anxious to see the coimtry and to learn where we were. The night had seemed long, having been sleepless, and the current of the swollen river appearing not to have suffered any interruption in carrying us onwards, I imagined that we were at an immense dis- tance fi'om Tobolsk ; but, to my astonish- ment, I was informed that we were scarcely twenty versts from the place of our embarka- tion. The surrounding country, as far as could be seen, was on all sides monotonous, uninhabited, and a complete wilderness. Not seeing any inducement to remain any longer, I retired to the cabin.

The lower part of this little retreat was below the level of the water, but this did not apply to the upper part, and a small oblong pane of glass fixed in the side, just beneath the low ceiling, admitted as little light as could be. However, as my berth happened to be uppermost, just at that small opening I could sit and read at the dim light it

OF SIBERIA. 103

admitted. Thus the berth did a double service for me ; it served me for a sofa during the day, and for a couch at night.

In the course of two or three hours we arrived off Bronikov, the very village where, a few weeks previously, the snow had pre- vented us from travelling by land. As we proceeded farther, the whole extent of land appeared a desert ; only at long intervals some solitary small settlements were observable, with patches of tilled groimd ; but even such vestiges of cultivation were few and far between.

But I should now say something of the other persons on board our vessel. Apart from the steward (Prikazbschik), who had the command of the sailors composing its crew, our company consisted of two mer- chants returning from Tobolsk to Berezov ; and Mrs. Jaszczenko and her daughter, both going on a visit to her son, who was school- master at the latter town. These passengers were left on board the vessel to manage for themselves as well as they could. They accordingly chose their places amidst the bags of flour destined partly for Berezov, and partly for Obdorsk.

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The whole of the company, as may easily be imagined, was huddled up pell-mell amongst these sacks : the passengers used them as they liked ; and were, by turns, sitting, sleeping, and eating on them. In the middle, some space was left vacant, which served as a common room. From it one flight of steps led to the deck, and another to the door opening on the water, which, being the only passage through which light could be admitted into the interior, was on that account kept constantly ajar.

The 19 th of May will for ever remain en- graven on the tablet of my memory, as on that day my life was within a hair's breadth of being cut off. At day-break, when the rays of the sun began to pierce our cabin through the small aperture called a window, I got up from my bed, intending to enjoy the fresh air of the morning. Josephine and the other passengers were still asleep, and only a few sailors were on the deck, watching the progress of the vessel. The two mer- chants of Berezov were below, making pre- parations for their breakfast, and busily employed at their samovar.

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Through the open door, I could see the morning was most beautiful. The sun was rising in all his brilliance, bathing his orb in the mirror-like waters of the Irtish ; and with his first rays magnificently gilding all the summit of the forests, which extended along the banks ; while the interior of our vessel was filled with a strong stench from skins, whisky, tar, and fish, and was so into- lerable and nauseous, that I felt quite over- come by the diff'erent effluvia. To escape them I went on deck ; but even there the smell of tobacco, with the suffocating miasma arising from below, totally destroyed the re- ft'eshing quality of the air. At this moment, a boat, such as is commonly attached by a rope to larger vessels, caught my eye, and, tempted to enjoy the morning air in all its freshness, after a short moment of hesitation, I jumped into it, and was delighted at being enabled to breathe freely.

I remained there sitting quietly for some time, not the slightest idea of danger occur- ring to my mind, until I perceived that the boat was at some distance from the vessel, and was gradually drifting away. As it was

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tied with a rope, it could not be loosened at once, and in so far I thought I was safe. Still, seeing it in a moment drift rapidly to a considerable distance, a nervous terror came over me. It appeared as if really I was completely losing hold of the vessel, and was abandoned to the capricious waves.

At one moment, however, the boat ap- proached so near, that I thought I had a chance of escape. Seizing a rope, I attempted by a leap to gain a projecting part of the side of the vessel ; but in leaping, I unluckily failed to reach it, so as to be able to preserve the balance, and by the violent movement I made, the boat being pushed away from be- neath me to a distance of several steps, I was left with the whole weight of my body hang- ing over the water, having for my safeguard nothing but the rope, which I held fast with all my strength.

Yessels on the Irtish have a quantity of ropes suspended aU round ; they serve both as a convenience for people descending and coming up from the boats, and also, in case of anybody falling overboard, of rescuing them from drowning. At first I endea-

OF SIBERIA. 107

voured to extricate myself from my perilous situation by my own efforts, but seeing no chance of success, I began to cry for help. But nobody came to my rescue. My screams could scarcely be heard on deck, amidst the continual splashing of the oars ; while inside, with the exception of the merchants at their tea, all were asleep. From holding the rope so long, my hands were benumbed, my strength began to fail me, and I feared every moment that I should sink to the bottom of the river.

In this dreadful suspense I was held for about a quarter of an hour, without any help coming. One of the two merchants, Kore- panow, had indeed heard, as he afterwards stated, some screams, but he had taken them for the cries of the rowers, such as were con- stantly heard on deck, and therefore paid no heed to them, until they struck him as a pro- longed and monotonous wailing, coming from one particular spot, which induced him to look out of the door, and he then perceived my perilous situation.

The son of this merchant, a youth of twenty, without a moment's hesitation, leapt into the

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boat, which was at some distance, and shoved it close to the vessel. Taking me then by my arm, he advised me to let go the rope, and fear nothing. However, exhausted, and almost at the last gasp, I feared to relinquish the rope, my last protection, seeing the water yawn beneath me, as I had even doubts lest the young man in such a difficult posi- tion would be able to sustain my weight without losing his balance, especially as he had to stretch across. But my situation was critical, and there was no alternative. With a desperate resolution, I gave up the rope, and he dropped me into the boat, which he had drawn as closely under the vessel as circumstances permitted. Here I stood up ; but from the suspension I had undergone, my feet, my hands, and the whole of my body quivered like one in an ague fit.

Josephine started from her slumber at the exclamations on deck from many voices : " The PoHsh lady is drowned ! " In her fright she rushed out of the cabin half- dressed, fancying me already dead.

IS'obody, however, was more extravagantly rejoiced at my recovery, and nobody lifted

OP SIBERIA. 109

up his hands so high to Heaven, in fervent thanksgiving, as the Cossack who escorted us, and who was also aroused from his sleep by the general uproar and alarm. This sym- pathy shown by the honest Cossack on my behalf moved me deeply ; and I failed not to express to him my sincere thanks. In ex- planation, however, he replied with as great a naivete as could be, but which went far to disenchant me : " Your safety, lady, con- concerns me very nearly, as, had not God mercifully averted this misfortune, the consequences would have been most fatal to myself."

The weather next day was very bad and stormy. It was impossible to remain on deck, owing to the excessive cold. The aspect of the country was uninviting and dreary ; no population, no trace of cultiva- tion ; lower grounds densely overgrown with willows, and the uplands crowned with cedar, larch, and fir. At night the wind increased to a perfect hurricane. The vessel was an- chored, and remained so during the ensuing day.

It is a tiresome thing to be moored. The

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play of the billows may for some time engage ojLir attention; but it soon loses all interest by its monotonous uniformity. We had no other means of dispelling our ennui than by shutting ourselves in oui' cabin, and passing away the heavy hours in reading. For- tunately I had a few books with me.

Towards evening, the storm seemed to abate; the anchor was weighed and we went on. But we had hardly reached the middle of the river, when, owing to the great swell, the vessel began to be tossed to such a degree, that we could not stand on our feet. Some of the passengers being unaccustomed to the motion, experienced sea-sickness. Mrs. Jaszc- zenko felt qualmish, her daughter was ill, Josephine suffered from head-ache ; and at last even I felt faint. Witnessing the suffer- ings of others, and being at a loss how to prevent them, I now began to think of my- self I went on deck, where fresh air and cold soon dispelled my illness, and I have ever since, during the strongest gales, remained proof against such qualms.

Again we were obliged to cast anchor, and wait till the storm ceased. It raged violently for two days.

OF SIBERIA. Ill

Poor Mrs. Jaszczenko could not be regarded without pity. During the storms on our voyage, she lay whole days with her face on the ground, almost in a state of insensibility, and as often as she raised up her head, she fainted. On the other hand, the men once used to voyages suffered nothing ; they quietly took their tea, yawned, smoked, or slept.

On the second day, towards evening, the wind again abated, and though the billows on the river were still running high, we were not in the least sorry to resume our voyage.

The river Irtish is really magnificent. When at its high tide in spring, it is several versts broad ; the current is extremely rapid, and the river is hemmed in on both sides by elevated hilly banks, covered with primaeval forests, for the most part cedar. At the foot of the hills, in the deep glens, and on the islands, grow willows in thick impenetrable masses. The water of the river is very muddy, and on this account cannot be used either for drinking or cooking, without under- going some process of purification. We had

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happily provided ourselves with a filtering machine for our own use ; but for the accom- modation of the rest of the passengers casks were kept filled with water, and the water only used after the sediment with which it was impregnated had settled.

The weather continued bad. All the vernal and pleasant smiles with which the returning season had cheered us up at Tobolsk, had altogether vanished, and a storm compelled us again to cast anchor. Only with great difficulty could we on the fifth day of our voyage reach Demiansk, one of the villages en route from Tobolsk to Berezov, consisting of about sixty houses. The distance of this village from Tobolsk is stated at two hundred versts; but in my opinion it is rather a guess than certainty, as there exists not a trace of any road by land, nor are there any verst stones.

Between Tobolsk and Demiansk we could still distinguish some vestiges of agriculture, but beyond that village northward through the whole extent of country, not a speck of tillage was seen. During our onward move- ment, although we were at the close of the

OF SIBERIA. 113

month of May, all tlie verdure with which we had observed the woods in the vicinity of Tobolsk, seemed, the further we proceeded, to be diminishing, and gradually disappeared. "Willows, which commonly grow densely by each other, and are covered with rich foliage, stood erect with leafless branches, tall, thin, and grey, presenting the aspect of extensive woods of Italian poplars, when winter has stripped them of their leaves. Cedars, firs, and larches, with their perennial green branches, were the only trees that covered the nakedness of the vast forests. On the other hand, the farther we proceed northwards, the hours of the night rapidly decreased ; so much so that when we were a short distance from Demiansk, we had hardly any night, and the dawn of day followed closely on twilight.

The weather continued excessively cold, but the atmosphere upon the whole was calm, until we arrived off Samarov. That village is considered the principal station between Tobolsk and Berezov, and is an important point for commerce, being situated on the confluence of two such great rivers as the

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Irtish and the Oby. It is inhabited chiefly by Kussians, carrying on trade. Samarov is considered by travellers as lying half-way between the above-named towns, and stands at the point which unites the districts of Tobolsk and Berezov.

We had been full eight days on our voyage. During that interval, unmind- ful of my personal sorrows, my attention was engrossed with contemplating the splendid scenery before me. My eyes strayed in turn over the vast expanse of waters, and on the immense virgin forests extend- ing far behind and before me. Their limits the sight strove in vain to reach ; ima- gination alone can supply them, either by stopping, in its soaring flight, on the one side, at the North Pole, the region of eternal ice, and the di'eary solitudes of sea monsters ; or on the other, at the rocky wall of the Uralian chain, celebrated far and wide in popular stories and traditions for supernatural agencies and wonders, mere creations of fancy, but which obtain implicit credence from the natives, and are perpetuated by them from generation to generation, as matters

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of religion and sacred truth. In pursuing the train of my associations farther, I em- braced in them the whole extent of the land from the Oby to the Uralian Islands east- wards. I roamed through wastes of snow, ice, wildernesses, immense rivers, and forests with their lairs of wild and ferocious beasts. It seemed as though I were meeting knots of strangers dispersed here and there on that vast wilderness. Unused to the locality, they were straying amidst its solitudes in a forlorn condition, not unlike solitary groups of mourning orphans, and reduced to the sad necessity of fraternization with the animal tribe, of assimilating their habits to theirs, and even of adopting their manner of living, in order to protract their miserable exist- ence.

Nature, in all her original grandeur and simplicity, such as she presents herself to our view, under her primitive features, with marks typical of those impressed by the hand of the Creator, and as yet untouched and undefiled by man — such Nature has some- thing wonderfully solemn in her aspect. The soul is absorbed in a religious trance, and

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gliding, as it were, on the intermediate chain by which the Creator is linked with creation, feels itself exalted by contemplating the wonderful works of the creation of God. The heart is then enabled to lift itself in adoration of the Almighty, while at the same time it feels humbled in the presence of such wonders, and of that power which had called them into existence.

Yet this impression, for the moment ele- vating, at length gave way to melancholy reflections. "What is man?" I asked myself in bewilderment, environed as I was by the stupendous works of the Almighty. " What is his pitiable destiny in the unbroken chain of the creation ? " He is but an atom amidst the component parts of the universe, • not unlike a single leaf of those thick and dark forests extending before my eyes, torn down by a whirlwind, and driven to and fro on the face of the earth.

or SIBERIA. 117

CHAPTEE VII.

Confluence of the Irtish and the Oby — Lowland and upland plain — The Tartar and the Ostiak boundary — Storm — Wild Scenery — Stones of various colours in rivers — Kondisk Monastery — Soswa — Distant view of Berezov — Disembarkation — Aspect of the town.

Having passed Samarov, we entered on the Oby, a magnificent sheet of waters in which the Irtish is engulfed. It does not, however, disappear immediately, but the two rivers, like a wedded couple, after they have united their existence and their estate, and assumed a com- mon name, preserve their individuality for some distance, flowing together in one cur- rent, and being easily distinguished by their:

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difference of colour. The waters of the Irtish, which are tui-bid and muddy, and on that account bear a brownish tinge, contrast strikingly with the clear, dark, and trans- parent waves of the majestic Oby.

The latter river, thus swelled by the Irtish and other tributary rivers, and by innumer- able streams of Asiatic Russia and the eastern acclivity of the Uralian range, may be seen flowing below Samarov northwards in all its grandeur, traversing an extensive plain, and then branching into numberless channels, each constituting a great river. N"o mean knowledge is required for its navigation, to avoid being lost in its mazes, though all the currents point one way and tend to a com- mon outlet.

The tract through which the Oby meanders with outstretched branches, at times extend- ing or naiTowing its bed, is about fifty versts in breadth, and is broken by the river into innumerable little islands, overgrown with weeping willows. This extensive plain laved thus by the river, is again enclosed on both sides by high hilly banks, covered with forests of cedar, larch, and fir. From these

OF SIBERIA. 119

elevated banks begin the highlands, over- looking, at a great altitude, the winding course of the river.

The cold was insupportable, and the wind, which blew from the north, brought occasional drifts of snow. At the same time trees without any foliage, and the earth without the least verdure, gave no indication that we were at the close of May, or that we had twelve days before seen the spring, and enjoyed its genial, balmy air. Indeed, another storm now burst forth, deepening the dismal aspect of the pictiu"e, and the wind became so boisterous that we were again obliged to lie at anchor.

Not wishing to pass his time uselessly, the Captain, accompanied by several men, em- barked in two boats for the adjacent shore, where they cut down a beautiful cedar, and brought it off as a mast. They were not long in effecting their object. The cedar being felled on the nearest point of the shore, was dragged without any difficulty to the river, and then the current carried it without additional trouble alongside the vessel.

The daughter of Mrs. Jaszczenko, a girl of

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fourteen, went on shore at the same time for a pleasure trip, and on her return, not unlike the dove of ISToah's ark, brought back an em- blem of hope. This was not an olive sprig, but a bunch of currants, and a few leaves of crimson peony. Here were indubitable signs of approaching spring. For my part, I greeted the current sprigs and the peony with as tender an affection as I would old acquaintances in a strange land.

All the way below Samarov, the country was a wild desert, presenting not a vestige of human habitation ; as though this wilderness was designed to constitute a line of demarc- ation between the settlements of the Tartar race, and those of the nomade Ostiaks.

Farther north, a few yourtas, a settle- ments of Ostiaks were occasionally observ- able. Whenever we met them, our steward was wont to enter into communication with the inhabitants, going himself on shore, or sending out a boat for the purpose of pro- curing provisions. In this manner, we frequently succeeded in getting ducks, eggs, or fish; though we were not always so fortunate. Our fare consisted of barley-

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gruel, or dumplings, made of flour, of which we had a good provision.

The stock of bread and meat which we had with us became useless, for what we did not soon consume was spoiled. Loaves of bread turned mouldy; and of the whole only biscuits were eatable. The rest of the passengers, more experienced than ourselves, had no bread, only biscuits, and were better ofl".

One day, on approaching an Ostiak colony, we observed our steward making preparations for going on shore. I inquired the reason, and was informed that he was desirous of purchasing a cow, to be supplied with milk, during his stay on the wild shores of the Oby Sea. On hearing this, I conceived also a desire to possess a cow for my futiu^e housekeeping at Berezov. The steward most willingly undertook the commission ; and in a few hours, to my great satisfaction, a very beautiful dun cow was brought in a boat, with a supply of hay sufficient for several days. For a treat, tea was immediately made. Yf e had no lack of milk and cream, which added greatly to our comforts ; and what was more,

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I had no longer a fear of getting consumptive without milk at Berezov, and this comfort, so important for me, I had procured at the expense of only twenty-five paper rubles.

The morning of the 28th May dawned beautifully, but was followed by a violent storm. Not anticipating this sudden change, the vessel was in the middle of the river. An alarm was raised, and all was turmoil on board. It was safest to steer for a shallow place and anchor. On one side the bank was high and the current deep, and the gale just carried the vessel towards it ; while it drove it fi'om the other, where the river was less rapid and not so deep, and which seemed the more eligible refuge. The vessel was quite at the mercy of the hurricane. The most experienced men were called to the helm, and all hands to the oars. It was feared that the rudder would break, a circumstance which might have led to a serious catastrophe. Strong poles, and the largest oars, purposely kept for such casualties, were brought forward to strengthen it, and by such efforts at last we succeeded in reaching a bay sheltered

OF SIBERIA. 123

from the force of the hurricane by a neigh- bouring forest, where we cast anchor.

We were detained a whole day. The cold was piercing, and the snow fell fast amidst violent gusts of wind. At the dawn of the following day, the gale had lulled and we immediately started on our farther voyage.

In this part of the world it is only on the shores of the rivers that we find human habitations, for the inland country is entirely uninhabited. But even here the landscape has the appearance of a perfect desert. In our progress we observed but a few solitary yourtas of the Ostiak, and these at a distance of a great many versts from each other. From our first entrance on the Oby, the character of the whole country continued unaltered. It was invariably the same expanse of waters, the same kind of forests, with this sole difference, that at every verst onward the country became more dreary and more solitary. Huge masses of rock lay along the shore, and some protruded their rugged, monstrous shapes from beneath the water, while their fantastic forms and gigantic dimensions were perfectly in unison

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with tlie wild grandeur of the suiToimding scenery.

No small degree of skill and caution was required on the part of the crew, while we continued our voyage, as the vessel had fre- quently hidden rocks to pass, on which, with less caution, she might have gone to pieces. The least jerk, therefore, used to apprise us of danger, and caused perturbation and dismay.

On the shore I could observe abundance of small stones, diversified in shape and colour, washed by the billows, and shining in the sand. Not understanding mineralogy I could not determine what they were ; and was sorry for it. Some were most beautiful, both transparent and opaque ; some all green, others smooth like marble, with veins of blue, yellow, and other colours running through them; and manj^, and to my liking the most curious, were those which had the appearance of being strewn over with gold and silver sand. Some parts of the shore were mere densely covered with them than others, and the stones wanted only polish to be exqui- sitely ornamental.

OF SIBERIA. 125

We arrived at last off Xoiidinsk, a village of about twenty huts, inliabited solely by Eussian settlers. This place is insignificant, and remarkable only for its Eusso-Greek Monastery, transferred hither from Berezov on the destruction of that town by fire in 1798. I had no inducement, had there even been an opportunity, to examine the locality more accurately, the weather being exceedingly unfavourable, raw, cold, and stormy ; and both myself and Josephine were indisposed. She caught cold in her face, and I was aiSicted with erysipelas. We could not, without the danger of aggravating our sufferings, expose ourselves to cold and a bleak wind — we therefore kept to our cabins.

I was by no means sorry that our prolonged voyages, at so inclement a season, when the air could neither be warmed, dried, nor pui'i- fied, was soon to terminate. Every discom- fort dming the journey is felt the more keenly when persons suffer from illness.

At last we left the Oby and entered on the Soswa, one of the minor tributaries, though still large enough in its volume of water to

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surpass the largest rivers of tlie European continent. It rises in the Uralian mountains, and after absorbing in its course a number of smaller streams and rivers, falls into the Oby at no great distance from Berezov.

'No sooner had we entered on the Soswa, than all eyes tui-ned towards the north ; and it was not long before a shout of joy was raised, "Berezov! Berezov!"

We had been a fortnight on our voyage. In such cases, the sight of the country to which one is proceeding forms usually an event of no small importance ; and more especially on a voyage which, pleasing as it might in other respects be, cannot after all but prove excessively irksome by its uniform- ity and sameness. An incident like the present, therefore, could not have been felt by us otherwise than as an interruption as gratifying as it was desirable. When -the joyful exclamation of " Berezov !" was raised, no ordinary excitement prevailed on board. All rushed on deck to see it, if possible, with their own eyes, as though they still were in doubt and could not trust to the testimony of others. I myself left my'cabin and shared

OF SIBERIA. 127

in the general impulse, eager to get a distant look of the place destined for my fature abode.

Cui-iosity being at length satiated, the next object of every passenger was his indi- vidual concerns, and to these we all directed our attention, according to the cn-cumstances in which we were placed. Some betook themselves to washing and brushing their clothes ; others were busied with packing up their things and surveying their articles of merchandise. Nearly all wished to appear in their best trim.

it was not until these particular arrange- ments had been duly terminated, that public affairs were thought of. Then, in honour of our vessel, it was determined to announce her arrival by firing tliree salutes.

I looked on all these movements with interest, almost envying those passengers who, on shores so remote, could expect to meet with relations and friends — who had somebody to welcome, or at least to receive them at their domestic hearths. I, on the contraiy, was neither expected nor had any- body to meet me, and having no inducement

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to change my travelling dishabille, I remained impassable at the door of my cabin, like St. John's statue standing on the edge of splash- ing wells and streams.

At last, drawn along with the rest in the general vortex, I stepped on deck, as I thought I should have a good opportunity to see all the preparations for the salute. I had to wait a few moments, as the thunder-bear- ing machine had not yet been brought forward ; but at length the steward made his appearance, and a ridiculously diminutive camion, of the shape of a good-sized rat, was brought after liim. I could not help laugh- ing at his apology for the war engine. I could not tliink otherwise than that this was a joke and mystification ; yet the counte- nances of all concerned in the business, were full of gravity.

As soon as we had arrived near enough to Berezov, three salvos were fired, and I found to my astonishment that the report was far louder than I expected. Thence I could not help drawing this most instructive moral, which is not the worse for being found in many ingenious fables, that "it does not

or SIBERIA. 129

require to be great to make much noise in the world." Our vessel at last stopped. The anchor was cast, and passengers thronged to the boats all eager to land.

The Cossack who escorted us, and whose mother resided at Berezov, was the first that disembarked, having to procure for us a tem- porary lodging. Josephine and I remained on board, and we saw no earthly reason why we should be in a hurry to go ashore.

I experienced not the least impatience for the Cossack's return, and though hours elapsed and he came not, I felt quite uncon- cerned. I employed the interval in taking a survey of Berezov. I could discern two Eusso-Greek churches built of brick, and a large house of wood, painted yellow, standing on a hdl, that overlooked the river. The rest of the to^vn consisted of small wooden houses, the largest two stories high, and all appearing dingy and blackened with rain. The town was siuTOunded, except on the side fronting the river, by a cedar forest, presenting an interminable back-ground of wood.

The Horodnitchi, who is the highest functionary resident in the town, came along-

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side in a large and comfortable boat to convey us to our temporary lodgings, till we could find some more suitable. Notwith- standing this civility, and his apologies for having kept us waiting two hours, with a pressing invitation to us to go on shore with him in his own boat, I could not leave the vessel without some apprehensions and mis- givings, as Josephine and I were the only persons now on board, all having gone ashore immediately on our coming to anchor, and everything in the bark being left to take care of itself. Without letting a word drop before the functionary, I communicated this fact to our Cossack, but he assured me that there was nothing to fear, as all was perfectly safe. Without more words, therefore, we got into the boat, the Horodnitchi and the Cossack with us, and left the vessel and its contents under the safeguard of the public faith.

OF SIBERIA, 131

CHAPTEE VIII.

«

The bay — Lodgings — Want of market — Sour ducks — Nights with daylight — Breakfast on water — New Lodgings — Supper — Arrangement of the rooms — Superfluous gifts — The hostess — Sudden summer heat.

We disembarked at the quay in the bay, and found a crowd of people of all classes, old and young, standing on the shore, the women dressed in gaudy, bright colours, their gowns, pelisses, and handkerchiefs shining like so many flower beds, as if it were a fair. Seeing this assemblage of people at one point, not on Sunday, but on a working day, I con- ceived quite a different idea of Berezov from what I had previously entertained.

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Making our way tlu'ough this throng, we proceeded, in company with the imperial func- tionary, to the lodgings prepared for us.

After so long a voyage, and confinement in a narrow cabin, where we could scarcely make three steps across, it was quite a relief to enjoy the unconstrained freedom of our feet, and a luxury to be put into possession of two airy, light and cleanly rooms. The only drawback was that the fire being lighted in the stove shortly, before our arrival, as is usual on such occasions, there was a sufFo^ eating smell from it. But the Cossack, who from our guard had become our landlord, suggested we should in the meanwhile occupy the room of his o^vn family ; and according to the custom of the country, we were treated with tea. As we were now,, however, close upon St. Peter's Bay, a period of strict Lent, the tea was served without milk or cream ; and tea is a beverage which I could never bear without the latter accessories. More- over, we were very hungry. But as it would have been anything but good taste to impose laws on hospitality so courteously ofi'ered to us, we repressed our desire for more substan-

OF SIBERIA. 133

tial food, comforting ourselves with the idea of having onr own household arranged very speedily, when we could do whatever we wished. Wlien the stove had burnt out, and the rooms were ventilated, we retired to our rooms.

All our luggage, together with the cow, was still on board the vessel ; and we were told that we could hardly have them this day, as it was difficult to find people who would disembark them; and besides, our present lodging being occupied but temporarily, it was difficult to provide a place for them. Not seeing much reason, therefore, why we should be in a hurry, I asked our landlord if he could procure us some articles of food from the market, when he replied that there was none in the town.

" No market ! Then where do you get your food ? " I inquired.

" Everybody gets his food where he can," was his reply.

I never supposed, nor could any such idea have ever entered into my imagination, that a town could exist without a market. Yet such was the case here ; and we saw that we

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could not do otherwise than accommodate ourselves to the exigency.

I inquii'ed of the Cossack whether he could not supply us with something out of his own pantry ; but his reply was, that he had nothing, and all he could give us at that moment was sour ducks, which perhaps would not be to our taste.

The hungry are never over dainty. Thinking, therefore that the ducks, of which he spoke so disparagingly, might not be so bad, and that hunger might easily reconcile our palates to a worse dish, I requested that they should be served. This being done, we found to our great mortification that " sour " was but an euphonious term for meat absolutely putrid.

We could not touch even a morsel of such disgusting stuff, and there remained no alter- native but to betake ourselves to bed, without appeasing the cravings of hunger.

There was no night, but the perfect light of day prevailed the whole time. This differ- ence we could not observe before, while we were on board the vessel, through the narrow window of our cabin, for, though it might have been clear on the deck, the light even

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135

of noou coiild but scantily penetrate into our dormitory. But here the ease was diJfferent ; it was continual daylight, without any dis- tinction between day and night; and this the more visible from the houses in Siberia having an excessive number of windows. I can hardly account for the introduction of such an absurd taste in architecture, and one so particularly unsuited to a northern climate.

What with the glare of light streaming upon us, the keenness of hunger, and the novelty of our position, neither Josephine nor myself could for a single moment close our eyes, and we passed the whole night in restless attempts to compose ourselves.

No sooner did the people of the house awake in the morning, than we saw a tea- urn, with boiling water and milk, figure on our table ; but the good people probably had forgotten that we had neither tea nor sugar, as our things were yet on board the vessel.

Josephine and I exchanged looks, and easily guessed that, after the last day's fast, we were doomed again to a meagre diet. But we gathered strength from resignation, and the samovar being arranged by our

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landlord's daughter, after she left the room, we filled our cups with water and milk, and baby-like partook of this innocent beverage. But, wishing to put a stop to our discomfort, we immediately afterwards went out to look for a lodging where we might in some manner or other establish ourselves.

In our search after lodgings, we went straight to the house recommended to us at Tobolsk, by Colonel Krzyzanowski, where, as he assured us, he was comfortably lodged for fourteen months. The proprietor was a Cossack, named Kozlow.

There being no market at Berezov, and not having any servant, it was idle to think of any arrangement for a separate household. "We were soon convinced that we could not do otherwise than take board and lodging, as all strangers and even government officials, who arrive here without families, usually do ; and this the more, as no provisions could be got except those supplied at the government contract, and from government stores. Per- suaded, therefore, that this was by far the better course, we made proposals to the Cossack to that effect, and these being agreed

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to, our contract was completed, and people were despatclied to fetch our luggage from the vessel.

Meanwhile our new landlady, on hearing that we had not yet dined, immediately made arrangements to prepare a repast for us, and in a few moments we saw a dish of excellent gruel, boiled with milk, placed on om^ table, together with some cakes. She also promised she would procure us some game, and other more substantial articles of food for our next meal. By this, and several other things that came within our obser- vation, we were soon convinced that the different reports we had heard at Tobolsk, in disparagement of Berezov, were not founded in truth. We saw plenty of cattle, and of a superior breed. Our landlady alone kept ten cows ; and many of her neighbours had as many, and some even a greater number.

"We lost no time in arranging the rooms assigned to us. They were tliree in number, and the floor of each was very clean, and the walls papered. Our things were safely brought from the vessel ; and, having unpacked and put them all in order, we were delighted

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with the appearance of our new home. Both the landlord and the landlady were all attention to us, and we could even observe that their civility was not unmixed with a good deal of sympathy for our fate. Their services, therefore, instead of being mercenary, as they commonly are, seemed rather a protection which they extended to us — a helping hand of kindness in distress and need. They both assisted us in arranging our chambers, and were most anxious to make them as comfortable and snug as possible.

Thus we were happily settled in our habitation, everything was in its place and in order. "We had even more furniture than we could find room for. Among such super- fluities, in particular, were a sofa, a table, and two arm-chairs, which we had brought from Tobolsk. They had been given us by Onuphry Yietrasz Kiewicz, who, in his ex:cessive anxiety for us, thinking we might want them at Berezov, abridged his own comforts, and packed them with om- other effects on board the vessel. His gift, which was a privation to him, now happened to

OF SIBERIA. 139

prove but an incumbrance to us, as there was enough furniture in the house, which, though not exquisite, and only of rough wood, was yet good enough. These pieces of furniture had however, the most prominent and the most sunny position — that is, the place of honour asigned to them, to add as it were some splen- dour to our humble domicile.

Looking on these objects of superfluity, I often thought how far a noble mind, when not corrupted by fortune, or crushed by adversity — placed though he may be amidst most trying circumstances — can be useful to others. This certainly was evidenced by the example set by the donor of these souvenirs. I have myself witnessed him struggling with poverty, as he was compelled to maintain himself by the labour of his own hands ; but in spite of his limited means, he was never weary of assisting his compatriots in their difhculties ; by his advice, his intercession, his personal services, and not unfi'equently even by his purse.

Our landlady, who was well off, thrifty and hospitable, though rustic in her man- ners, behaved towards us with great kindness,

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not in the manner in which it is customary to treat boarders in our own towns where they have bread dealt out to them by morsels, and every additional comfort calculated and bargained for ; but she considered us rather as guests whom Providence had brought under her roof. Whatever her house possessed was placed at our service — as nice cakes, and good cream, and other articles of the best quality, such as made our food not only palatable, but almost luxurious. Yet I cannot say but that the appearance of some of the dishes was very strange, and at first repulsive to us. Such were the roast duck, with a cold sauce prepared of vinegar and cream, and a meat pudding boiled in milk. But amidst a variety of dishes, which were at each meal brought on our table, we had only to choose, and need not be hungry.

After a day or two, it suddenly became very hot. It seemed as though we had made an abrupt leap from winter to summer. One day we were obliged to have a fire in the stove, and on the next day the heat was intolerable. The whole face of the earth was then brown, and the trees naked ; but now

OF SIBERIA. 141

we saw grass springing up, plants sprouting, trees bursting into leaves ; and the hollyhock appearing in bloom. The change was as sudden as it was marvellous.

We could scarcely believe that within the short interval of eight hoiu's, Nature had effected such a great change. What had become of spring ! what of that spring in which oiu- senses are filled with such rap- tui'ous delight, and which divides the frost of winter from the sultriness of summer ? Here the leap is instantaneous. Yesterday the warmest clothing hardly sufficed to keep me warm; to-day again, the heat is so intense that we are obliged to cool the Avater we wish to drink with ice.

The day was everlasting, and whether we clothed our eyes or awoke from sleep, day- light was constantly streaming in at the windows, and circling over the horizon. 'No dew was to be met with here ; and the earth had none the whole summer.

Oh, lovely spring of my country ! how I shall ever remember, and ever long for thee !

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CHAPTEE IX.

Rapidity of vegetation — Preparations for the fisheries in the Oby Gulf — Performance of a religious rite — A family farewell — A touching scene — Site of Berezov — Streets — Structure of the houses — Churches — Burial places — Menzikov's corpse — His grave — Graves of other exiles — Classification of the inhabitants — Pro- visions— A Siberian school.

With all these drawbacks, however, I must confess that Berezov did not appear to me so terrible as various reports had repre- sented it. There is a proverb which says, " that even the Devil was handsome when he was young ;" and this might be as fitly applied to certam regions in the regenerating season of spring.

In July, everjiihing around Berezov

OF SIBEEIA. 14

o

appeared in new and gay apparel. Larch trees were decked with tiny leaves of the freshest verdure, filling the air with sweet perfume. The grass, quickened by the moistiu'e of the thawing soil, grew incredibly fast. The river Soswa, overflowing its banks fai' and wide, presented to the eye an immense expanse of water, encircling with her arms numberless islands covered with willows, and disappearing in the distance like a mirror of clear azure. I^earer us, it is rolling and roaring, and dashing its foam- ing billows against the precipitous banks of the town.

Along the shore lay a number of fishing- boats and barges, prepared for a voyage to tlie Oby sea. They formed a forest of masts, curiously rigged and decked with number- less colom-ed fiags, which flaunted on the air. Smaller craft were plying to and fro between, the shore, and the larger vessels freighted with stores and provisions. These preparations, unusual in this remote spot at any other season, rendered the town quite animated.

Our host, though an aged man, had en-

144 EEYELATIOXS

gaged to take part with others in a fishing expedition; the fishing season on the Oby sea, being for the inhabitants of this part of the world, what the harvest season is in other coimtries. EYerybodv in good health and vigour, not having any more important employment at home, participates in it. The necessary preparations being completed, the scene of taking farewell at home fol- lowed.

In one of our rooms, screened by curtains, was an image of the tutelar saint of the house, surrounded bv a number of other images of saints of less dimensions, decked all in gold or silver apparel. On the eve of parting, the aged man, accompanied by all his family, entered the room, and knelt before this shrine, touching the fioor several times with his forehead, and repeating a short prayer. All then arose, and the venerable old man, with tears in his eyes, bade farewell to his wife and children, and to us, whom he considered as belonging to his family. At the same time, he addressed a few words to his wife, commending us to her particular protection and care. Then

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amidst the tears of all, he proceeded to the place of embarkation.

He was accompanied by his family, and by a large number of his friends, who waited on the shore till they saw him safe on board the vessel.

My heart was fall, and tears gushed involuntarily from my eyes. For my part, I am not conscious that greatness, or splen- dour, or the contrivances of luxury, have any attraction for me, or that I ever longed for the possession of them; but a neat and cleanly dwelling, however humble, where concord, order, and competence reign, has invariably had an uncommon charm for me. In such a place I have always been desirous to live and die. Throughout my life, feelings of the heart alone constituted my world, and from them alone sprang all my delights and sorrows, my hours of happiness and of pain. I derived my bliss more from the hand of IN'ature than from society. But alas ! this was but a dream — an idle reverie. It was just on that point that the thunderbolt had struck, and at one blow demolished all my

joys.

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As July advanced, a northern breeze cooled the air, and there were not so many musquitos. I now frequently walked out, in order to get a view of the town, and become acquainted, as far as possible, with its environs.

Berezov is a distinct town of the govern- ment of Tobolsk, situated in 64° latitude, on the left side of the Soswa, which, at a short distance from it, empties itself into the Oby.

The banks of the river, on which the town is built, are elevated. The soil is sandy, and the streets are always sandy and muddy even during the greatest summer heat. On the surface of the mud, however, during summer, a dry incrustation is formed; but woe to the person who, trusting in its ap- parent solidity and firmness, should ventui-e to direct his unfortunate feet on it, as the deceitfal crust would break under him, and he would have hard work to emerge from the quagmire beneath.

Communication from one house to another is therefore not easy; and boards, large, long wooden planks, and round stems of whole

OF SIBERIA. 147

trees, are laid across the streets, to facilitate it. In some places, we observed pools of clear water, too deep to be ever dried up. These pools are honoured by the inhabitants with the appellation of ozera, or lakes.

In our towns such a wretched state of things would never be tolerated ; for what inhabitants would like to have then- houses built in streets which are impassable for any vehicle ? But here, this inconvenience is of no importance. During the whole summer, we did not see one carriage pass through the streets. There are no wheels, no carts, no horses ; and there are, of course, no roads. In town, all communications between the inhabitants are effected on foot, and out of its precincts, by boats on the river.

The whole surface of the district of Berezov has as yet remained untouched by the wheel. No trace of a furrow is seen on it. Nor indeed would a road be of any use, while the whole extent of land is but an uninterrupted track of wilderness. The few inhabitants that belong to this district, are settled only on the banks of rivers ; and it is chiefly by means of water communication

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that they provide themselves with the neces- saries of life, as wood for fuel and building, and the different articles of food and of barter, which they carry on with the Ostiaks and the Samoieds. The rest of the Upper- lands, stretching as far and as wide as imagin- ation can conceive, has, on its whole extent, not a single town, not a village, nor even a single human hut. It is a complete desert, inhabited only by wild beasts.

Owing to a complete want of roads from one place to another, the country presents an aspect totally different from other regions. Only when swamps, marshes, and rivers are frozen over, and when their surface can bear the weight of the rein-deer, can any traffic by land be prosecuted, and at that season Berezov may be seen somewhat enlivened by the appearance in the streets of these most useful aninals.

The town does not consist of more than about two hundred houses, nearly all of which are but a story high. The principal reason for the adoption of this style of build- ing is the humidity of the ground. The ground-floor of a dwelling is appropriated to

OF SIBERIA. 149

the kitchen, the pantry, and other household offices; the upper part alone is inhabited. I could never explain to myself satisfactorily why Berezov has been commonly described as an island, as it is washed only on one side by the river, and on all other sides is con- tinuous land.

Even the Eussians give the place this false designation, with the difference that they speak of it in the plural number, as Bere- zovski Ostrowa (Berezovian Islands.) The name of Berezovian Isles is meant for the whole flat, extensive plain on the right bank of the Soswa, traversed by that river, and intersected by other tributary rivers and streams, which thus form a sort of con- tinental archipelago of islands, formerly called by the name of Berezovian Islands, and which on that account might have caused Berezov, after its elevation to the rank of a district town, to be called after them.

Berezov has two chm^hes, one called Spaska, the other Zamczaina, and both are built of brick. The appellation of the latter signifies transfluvian, the church being situ-

150 REVELATIONS

ated on tlie opposite side of a deep ravine, "which, dimng the inundation of the Soswa, is filled with water from that river. At that time, the church is only accessible by a bridge constructed over the ravine. It stands on a hilly bank, from which the view is beautiful. A sombre old forest of larch trees (Pinus cembra^) surrounds the sacred edifice.

According to tradition, the larches of this forest are a remnant of a sacred grove, dedi- cated to idolatrous worship by the ancient Ostiaks. Up to the present day, although a considerable number of the Ostiaks have been converted to Christianity, the neophytes have not discontinued the worship of ancient larch trees, which prevailed among their fore- fathers.

Near the sylvan church is an aristocratic burial-place, adorned with monuments of stone and marble, though the most recent are of iron. Another burial-ground, appropriated to the poor, lies on the other side of the town, in the forest.

The Spaska church is situated in the oppo- site quarter of Berezov. Formerly there

OF SIBERIA. 151

was a burial-place adjacent, but by order of the Grovernment this has of late been abolished and another opened in the forest. At a little distance from the latter is the grave of MenzikoVc

This last resting-place of a celebrated man was discovered only a few years ago, whether accidentally, or after a search, nobody can tell. His body was exhumed, and was found clad in the uniform of his time, completely frozen, and in perfect freshness, as though it had been buried but yesterday. The earth near Berezov never entirely thaws, even in summer, when the heat is most intense, but merely on the surface, or to a very superficial depth.*

* It has been observed that the earth in the northern parts of Siberia is congealed to an extraordinary depth, and probably has ever been so ; but it much varies in degree at different places. ' Hedenstrom made several trials at Tomsk, and found the ground only frozen to the depth of thirty-five inches, latitude 56'* 50'. At Yakutsk, again, 62° north latitude, the Eussian American Company bored for water in the court-yard of their establishment to the depth of three hundred and eighty feet ; and the ground was still frozen and no water found. In that same town the inhabitants have cellars under all

152 EEVELATIONS

The body of the once mighty minister and imperial favourite was again buried, and the grave marked by a small earthen mound, covered over with turf. It is surrounded also by a wooden rail, which does not promise much durability. No stone, no inscription whatever announces who lies beneath ; and in a short time, it is most probable no trace will remain on earth commemorative of a man born under such a singular star — who rose from the humblest class of society to the highest dignities — who held for a long time the balance of nations in his hand — ^who had placed his descendants within a single foot- step of the throne — and who, rapid as had been his rise, was still more rapidly precipi- tated into the abyss of misery and oblivion.

The inhabitants of Berezov preserve as yet

their houses made in the frozen ground, precisely as ice- houses are made in other countries. In summer, when the heat is as excessive as the cold is in winter, they place all their fresh provisions, such as milk, meat, and fish, in these cellars, where everything becomes frozen in two hours. They likewise construct their graves in the same way, except that they make large fires above, and bum the holes in the ground.

f^Q

OF SIBERIA. 15

in their memory the particular spot where Menzikov, during his banishment, Kved ; and where stood the hut in which he lodged, near the Spaska church. The hut, unfortunately, was burnt down during the great fire of 1798, by which nearly the whole town was reduced to ashes.

It is also related, on no other authority than what the people have heard from older persons, that subsequent to his downfall, Menzikov became very religious; that he used to go with his axe to the forest to fell the trees, and that he died a starost, or an elder of the Spaska church.

At the Spaska church, a missal is pre- served, a gift from the Princess Olga Dolgoruki, another great personage, who was banished to Berezov. I have myself seen the missal, which is inscribed with her autograph. I was also told that in the same church twct children of Menzikov' s daughter were buried. In what spot Prince Dolgoruki and Osterman were buried nobody could inform me. Berezov might be said to be the N'ecro- polis of Eussian greatness.

The population of the town consists chiefly

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154 EEVELATIOXS

of Cossacks, on whom it is incumbent to watch over the security of the country ; but the whole being in a state of perfect peace, their service is limited to keeping watch at the few Government offices, and carrying official messages from this place to Tobolsk. At other times, they devote themselves to commercial pui-suits, which are for the most part carried on with the Ostiaks, and constitute the prin- cipal and almost the sole source of theii' live- lihood and their wealth. From his infancy, the Cossack of this place is impressed with the idea that he is born for commerce, and being trained to it by his parents, becomes acquainted with all its details and mysteries.

There are several shops in the town, in which different articles can be purchased, as calico, tea, sugar, confectionary, wine, &c. Flour and other victuals, or what is commonly termed "the staff of life," are, according to the quantity required for home consumption, bought by the inhabitants from vessels when they arrive, and laid up for the whole winter.

There being no market, every householder must procure provisions elsewhere, or devise

or SIBEEIA. 155

some means by which he may be enabled to obtain them himself. The river and the forest thus become the market-place, and skill and perseverance are disbursed in place of money.

Berezov is divided into two parishes of the Eusso- Greek Church, and is the residence of a Pope and Protopope. It is also the seat of the district government, and of its jurisdic- tion in all its different ramifications, in accordance with the general regulation of the whole Eussian empire, with the sole exception of the so-styled Marshal of the I!^oblesse, there being nobody here whom that dignitaiy could represent. The whole duty of the functionaries, after all, is almost nominal, as scarcely any cases come under their consideration.

In accordance with the general regulations, there is likewise a district school, composed of two classes, where the Cossacks, and nearly all the citizens, send their children to be taught reading and writing. The studies do not, however, extend very far ; for no sooner do the parents perceive that their children have learned reading with facility,

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EEVELATIONS

and the art of casting up accounts with the Ostiaks, than they take them away from school, as, in their opinion, any farther learn- ing would only be a waste of time.

or SIBERIA. 157

CHAPTER X.

Musquitos — Visits — Bashfulness of a hostess — A mer- chant widow's house — Objects of luxury and European taste — ^N'ot at home — Summer heat— Courtesy of the

Berezovianmaids^Flight — Arrival of Madame X

A Berezovian Bloomer — A Polish maid-servant.

What a pity that one cannot profit by the fine but short summer moments at Berezov. The sight of a beautiful forest almost touch- ing the threshold of the house, the deep shade beneath the far spreading branches of tall cedars, or of deep green larches, was deliciously inviting, and we often were tempted to seek refuge amidst it from the piercing rays of the sun ; but no sooner did we venture into the shade, than we were

158 REVELATIONS

surrounded by dense swarms of musquitos, wMchj starting from their ambuscades, attacked us on all sides. There was no possibility of repelling such myriads of blood- thirsty assailants. Yet after covering our faces with visors of hair, with which the lady of General Potemkin had provided us at Tobolsk, and our hands with thick gloves, and being otherwise armed, cap-d-pie, we stoutly marched on, nothing daunted, to the encounter, repelling their attacks as courage- ously as we could ; but all our efforts proved unsuccessful. After a short and desperate combat, we were obliged to beat a retreat, blistered from head to foot. Finding it quite impossible to make excursions in the forest, we resolved to cultivate our acquain- tance with the persons of the place ; and, as the Horodnitchi was the principal inhabi- tant, and had already several times called on us, we thought it would be most becoming to commence our round of visits with him.

We accordingly called at his house, and were ushered in. Here we were welcomed by a young and handsome lady, who proved to be his wife. She said not a word, but

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showed by a pleasing smile that she was gratified at our visit. Presently she left the room to look for her husband, who in a short time an'ived. Meanwhile we looked round the apartments, which were particularly neat and clean.

A few minutes afterwards, the youthful lady of the house re-appeared, more hand- somely di'essed. She was preceded by a servant with a tray loaded with a variety of sweetmeats and confectionary, of which, with divers signs and smiles, but not utter- ing a single word, she politely pressed us to partake. The expression of her countenance was that of exceeding bashfalness ; but as she was very young, handsome, and of a mild disposition, I began to feel an instan- taneous affection for her, such as is frequently experienced at the sight of a shy child shrinking at the appearance of strangers, and displaying only to the family circle all the genuine charms and beauty of her character.

I endeavoured in every possible way to reassure her, and therefore frequently addressed my conversation solely to herself. She appeared, however, scarcely to under-

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stand my friendly wishes, for her replies to my remarks were whispered in her husband's ears, and he, like an echo, repeated her words alond. Fearing lest our first visit would prove too severe a task for the young hostess, I rose to take leave, when she sud- denly exclaimed, '' Da Kakje ? Samovar !" (How can you leave us ? the tea-urn !) These Were the first words we had heard her utter.

Thinking that our departure, without com- plying with her request, might be construed by her husband into a want of courtesy, and that she herself might feel grieved, we con- sented to remain to tea, and then separated, as I had good reason to think, on the best possible terms.

Having once started on our wandering tour, after leaving the Horodnitchi's house, we thought we might at the same time call on a Madame Nizegorodtyow, the relict of a wealthy merchant, to whom we had been furnished with a letter of introduction by her daughter at Tobolsk. This lady's resi- dence was the largest in the town, and by far the finest. On my first arrival at Berezov, I was, as I have already described.

OF SIBERIA. 161

particularly struck by its appearance. It comprised a central structure, occupied by herself and her family, and two wings, each one story high, appropriated to the servants. The court-yard was enclosed with a strong wooden fence, which, as well as the whole mansion, was painted yellow; contrasting strongly with the rest of the dingy wooden houses of the town, and the dark forest scenery in the background.

We were just entering the first open door, when we were met by a young man, who, in a most polite manner, offered to lead us to the mistress of the house. Having conducted us through a suite of apartments, well furnished and exquisitely clean, he showed us to a drawing-room, when, as we looked round, he suddenly disappeared, not unlike an ethereal substance dissolved in space. We had some misgivings — and we were not far wrong — that he was a little annoyed at the incompleteness of his toilet, as he was attired in his di'essing-gown. But we waited and waited, and nobody appeared, though we every moment expected to see the mistress of the house. Meanwhile, we felt not the

162 EEVELATIONS

least impatient, as tlie position in which we happened to be placed rather amused us by its novelty. Moreover, everything on which we fixed our eyes struck us with amazement, by its rarity, exquisiteness, and even luxmy. In any other part of the world, these objects would certainly not have so absorbed my attention; but to meet such objects of splendour, and of European taste and industry at Berezov, in the land of the wild Ostiaks — at this extremity and last nook of the world — was, I must confess, what I never could have anticipated.

The mansion — for it might justly be styled such — was spacious and commodious, con- taining stately apartments, with lofty windows, commanding in front a view of the boundless sheet of water and magnificent forest. Every pane of glass was exquisitely clean and spotless ; rows of flower-pots stood in the windows, with all sorts of plants, vigorous and fresh ; and all the more charm- ing, fr'om their being so rare in that desolate region. Mirrors of enormous size, mahogany furniture, paiatiags, crystal and china vases and silver plate, bore testimony to the wealth

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of their owner, and to her European taste and refinement. With snch things around, one conld easily forget that the locality was Berezov ; and forget I did. For a moment, even the purpose of my visit passed from my mind, so completely was I absorbed in delightful recollections.

At length the door opened, and I was reminded of the object for which I had come. I raised my eyes, but instead of the lady of the house, for whom we had so long been waiting, the young man whom we had first encountered again presented himself, now attired in a stylish velvet dressing-gown.

This Siberian beau, we now learned, was the widoAv's son. He said that he came to inform us that his mother was not at home ; but had gone to call on her daughter, the wife of the Director of Police. If we would wait, hoAvever, he would immediately send a message to apprise her of our visit, and he Avas sure she Avould eagerly return. Of course, we could not consent to such an arrangement, and took leave, promising to call some other day.

The heat now grcAV insupportable, and

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kept us imprisoned in-doors. There was no dew at night, no cooling breeze of sunset, no fresh air of morning; but ever and ever incessant sunshine burning and scorching unremittingly. The sun made scarcely a momentary dip under the horizon, even then not entirely concealing his burning rays, and soon he lifted up his fiery orb again. It vs^as impossible to breathe — impossible to sit in a chair — impossible to do any work. Utter lassitude crept over the whole frame, repressing all vigour and vital power. I moved from place to place in search of relief, hoping to find some cool spot, but in vain. Sometimes I threw myself on the floor, or dragged my steps to a bath, where I deluged myself with buckets of cold water. This certainly was refreshing, and did me good ; but the benefit derived from even such a mode of cooling would be but momentary, and was far from making me insensible to the over- powering hot blast of the surrounding atmos- phere. From this I became so debilitated, that my feet began to swell, and I grew apprehensive of di'opsy.

We were told that the current of air on

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the river side, was usually far cooler than in other places. Towards evening, when the heat augmented in intensity, we would proceed to this favoured locality. But here we found our expectations of relief sadly frustrated, being assailed on all sides by a cloud of merciless musquitos, who could only be repelled by a great amount of exertion.

On the occasion of our first visit to the river, this was not our only mischance. The young women of the Berezovian Cossack families — very excellent creatures, but exceedingly eager after novelty, as our sex generally are — seeing in what direction we were walking, being desirous either of making our acquaintance, or getting a good view of us, followed us in a body. Absolutely running along, they soon overtook us, and though we were perfect strangers to all, covered us with kisses. They were full of commiseration, too, for our solitude, and promised to do all in their power to amuse us dui'ing our stay amongst them, and in proof of the interest they took in us, over- whelmed us with questions on our affairs.

1G6 EEVELATIOXS

Having passed through the double ordeal of an attack from the musquitos and the young women, and being persuaded that to rmi the risk of such encounters in an open field would be anything but agreeable, we beat a retreat, determined to intrench our- selves within the walls of our own domicile, which we at length reached in safety.

Not until we saw ourselves within our own tlireshold, did we begin to breathe with freedom, rejoiced to escape both from the stings of the musquitos and the caresses of the Cossack women. We made a vow not to go out of doors until our winged assailants should have disappeared, when we might brave the fair Cossacks. Even the enjoy- ment of fresh air, however desirable and necessary, could not compensate for the trouble we had had in battling with the formidable insects ; and glad we were to be again at rest.

But this day seemed to have been marked in black in the book of our horoscope. On looking round oiu* rooms, where we had ex- pected to find retirement and comfort, the sole consolation we could command, we were

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amazed to observe a scene of complete dis- arrangement and disorder.

Madame X had arrived from Tobolsk.

We had happened, during our stay in that city, to become acquainted with her ; and on the score of that acquaintance, though our interview had scarcely lasted a couple of hoiu's, she had now paid us an uninvited visit. Our sui'prise may be conceived, when, on opening the door of our apartments, we saw a stranger in a man's dressing-gown and boots, with cropped hair, surmounted by a jockey-cap, sitting on the sofa, smoking a pipe. At the same time, our reception-room, the best we had, was crammed with boxes, large and small, with rifles, yatagans, smoking- pipes, tobacco-bags, and other specimens of man's and woman's chattels blended con- fusedly together.

I was astounded at this spectacle, and at a loss to comprehend what could have happened.

Madame X did not let me wait long for

an explanation. She informed me that her mother and several sisters resided at Berezov, and she had come on a visit to them ; that on all such occasions when she arrived, she in-

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variably used to lodge in our apartments ; and that, but shortly before she set out on her journey, she had sent word to our land- lady, informing her of her intended visit. But although the rooms were occupied by us, she added, there was no reason why she should change her plan, being sure that there was room enough for her and for ourselves, and that it would be even more pleasant for both parties to lodge together.

I was confounded at the boldness, and still more at the nonchalance with which this pro- position was made, and must confess that I quite lost my presence of mind. I was un- certain whether I should consider her as my guest, or as a fellow-lodger, not clearly com- prehending, in fact, in which light she regarded herself.

But Madame X , who had no idea of

any such thing, and to whom all consideration appeared superfluous, only asked: "Which of the rooms are you going to give me ?"

" If I am to judge by the language in which you have addressed us," I replied, " I suppose you mean to be considered as our guest ; and as you have already made